Thank you for including american framing terms and differences. Im an aspiring apprentice and that really helped bring attention to how beautiful you and your accent are❤.
As someone who has just purchased their first investment property, this video was great in explaining the various framing structures. Informative when you specified the measurements and building codes, and type of timber used in each element. Will consider framing my own house one day! Good to know these things when looking at houses for structural soundness.
Loving your content Dave! Informative, humble and you seem like a genuinely nice guy. If you can turn up on time and do what you say you’ll do then you’ll dominate. Keep it up.
Thanks Dave! As a sparky and fridgy who's always been fascinated in carpentry, your videos help me scratch that itch. (Although now im tempted to quit my hard-earned career and start a carpentry apprenticeship)
Hey KaesOner, I’m a licensed carpenter that’s been doing 1st fix carpentry for 20 years here in Adelaide. Let me tell you if you don’t like hard work then carpentry isn’t for you. It’s extremely hard on the body and it’s more for men who are in their 20s and 30s not 40 and above. It’s extremely dangerous pretty much all the time you’re constantly walking on top of wall frames with 6-metre drops right next to you when you’re building the roof. I’m also constantly lifting roof trusses, LVL beams, and fibre cement sheeting, and HEBEL that weigh 40kg, 50kg, 60kg, and even 80kg plus on some occasions while walking up a ladder with that weight on your shoulder. Then you’re cold all the time during winter and walking in mud and then you’re always sunburned in summer and sweating all day. And the risk of injury is always there because of how dangerous all the tools are. I’ve sh0t myself 3 times with the nail gun and fell of the ladder before and broke a rib. And I had a guy cut his thumb off with a power saw right in front of me and I got worse stories than that! The money is very good but so many people say they want to be carpenters and then they quit for all the reasons I’ve said above. Or I have to fire them because they simply can’t keep up with the workload and pace and have difficulty understand how it all works. But Carpentry is the premier trade of all the trades and you could say we are the shot callers on site because we have the most detailed understanding of the entire construction process. And we can do every other trade but other trades can’t do our trade because how complex & detailed it is. Hope that was helpful mate 👍
Oh and I forgot to say as well that even though I did wear ear protection I now have permanent ringing in my ears (Tinnitus) and hearing loss because of 20 years of daily using of petrol generators, nail guns, power saws, angle grinders, masonry drills, air compressors, explosive power tools, electric routers, electric planners etc etc. Your ears get hammered all day!
Thanks mate...Great content, you are really a smart dude to actually understand and explain the engineering behind. It would be great if you can make another video on reading the engineering plan on site while framing and explaining the common mistakes made, such as non compliance items
Great explanation mate. Be careful to allow a minimum of 15mm between the top reveal and head trimmer on all windows as per the AS, some windows looked like they were flirting with it. Keep up the good work bud.
Dave, you are GUN! Your videos are so good, your explanations clear and spot on. You are so polite with coworkers, right on spec with what you do in every way. You have a huge career, interesting to see which direction you go. You'd be a top certifier (shish!) or presenter for The Block (ha!). Seriously but, I have owner-built two houses and renovated a third and your explanations would be very helpful for OBs starting out so bare them in mind as you make content, even though apprentices and builders are your main viewership. PS: I have noticed in US vids they don't use nogs....is that 'cos they sheet the entire building? Whatdya think of that - seems incredible bracing but cost more?
Is it possible for you to do a video on how to do a Frame Inspection. Mate I love your videos. As a student , I find your videos very interactive. With lots of examples. I am aspiring to become a Building Inspector. If you would be kind enough to do either a series of small videos or one full length video where you go through each part of the frame and tell us what to look out for when doing a frame inspection. That will be great
One thing about the lintel positioning, I like the ease of putting them up against the plate, but a small consideration is the extra load bearing of the cladding that would be fixed below the lintel and potential ceiling joists/battens inside. It’s probably inn-effectual but something to consider.
A guy I worked with always put them over the window, flush with internal face if they weren't full depth. His reasoning was you have solid blocking for curtains/blinds over every window. I like your point though haven't thought of that.
After 20 years in the industry I am over this construction method. It had its days but there are better performing options now, offering better performance and cost effective solutions.
@@benperkins2929 Post and and beam, straw bale, hempcrete, SIP, aerated concrete, CLT, prefabricated walls and roof elements, rammed earth, concrete........... Timber as such is a great material for building but the 4x2 method is like a fax machine OUTDATED and over priced if you look at costs vs performance
@ CLT, pre cast concrete, SIP, hempcrete, aerated concrete, straw bale, rammed earth etc...Standard timber framing might appear cheap but in the longer run it is very expensive in form of energy costs, heating, maintenance and life span. If you have ever lived in a properly built house which provides comfort all year round without breaking the bank you understand. It all depends where you are of course. Timber frame can still work too if it is the structure of a fully factory built wall. Assembling a timber framed house on site is too labour intense for a poor outcome and turning it into a well performing thermal envelope requires even more labour hours and costs.
Yes, it’s all untreated. The only time you use treated timber is for building anything outside the house where they will be exposed to termites balconies, decks, pergolas, stairs, fencing etc.
Thank you for the explanation. In Holland we prefabricate all these walls because of the weather. I engineer these walls, we have outside walls with 38x235mm studs, because of our insulation standards.
The wall, floor and roof prefab elements are very heavy, so in the production hall they use a overhead crane for turning the prefabs around. On site they use mostly a telescopic crane or sometimes a tower crane. A residential building is set up in 2 or 3 days. Mind you that the prefabrication time is the same as you are making your buildings in place as a carpenter.
@@stewatparkpark2933 In Adelaide, we never use prefabricated wall frames ever. We make all our own wall frames on-site by ourselves. And because of everyone always using roof trusses, I’d say 90% of carpenters don’t even know how to build a conventional roof!
Awesome video! Looking to build my own studio and this was invaluable. Can I ask how you secure the bottom plate to the slab? And does the termite sheet just go between the bottom plate and slab or is there a sill sheet/foam also. Cheers!
Ive seen lintels where the ledger is but it is out of hardwood. And the number of studs besides the opening that the lintel sits on is the number of studs that the opening disrupts. Edit: im in the north whwre we also use full height threaded rod secured to a threaded rod set into the concrete, or through the joist / bearer and are called cyclone rods. We've even had to install double row noggins, double bottom plates and triple top plates.
Great video. I've always been a little confused by jamb studs. When engineering plans mention double or triple jamb studs beside openings over a certain width, does that mean the number of studs under the lintel, or beside the lintel? Ive seen both. For example, 2500 opening says triple jamb stud; would this mean 3 jamb studs under the lintel each side of the window/door, then one common stud to top plate each side?? (I've also seen 3 under lintel than 3 beside to plate as well) I've seen people just do a single jamb stud under lintel then 3 triple studs to the top plate. To me this isn't right as you aren't providing any more support to the lintel, just more support to the top plate. What's your take? Keep the videos coming mate.
The engineering plans for the job will have a table showing you how many studs they want under the lintel or beside the lintel. Depending on the job the engineer sometimes wants them to be done differently, typically for a triple stud, they call for 1 under the lintel and 2 running the full way up next to the lintel
I agree with you, I don’t think it makes much sense having 1 stud under the lintel and 2 running besides it. We just have to trust the engineers know what they’re doing 😂
In my US experience is p years ago, the short m jack studs that come down from the top of the wall to window top plates are called “cripples” because they have no legs. Not very kind term but helps distinguish from the jacks supporting from the bottom plate UP. Vs from top plate down.
My house has a top plate were part of it (one top plate) has been chewed in one corner by termites and has one of those v joins near it,would that effect anything do u reckon,obviously you cant see it but are they able to be replaced also?
Great video - very enlightening. On your ply-braced sections doesn't the extra thickness of the ply impact the external cladding? IE wouldn't you have to space out any cladding to make up for the thickness of the ply or are you ripping the studs down too keep the total width at 90mm?
I had a hard enough time moving from Washington DC to South Carolina and learning the lingo of carpentry . I have 43 years experience and every word I knew for one thing was called something else . I survived and got southified . Most everything you called out , We call differently. I never liked installing windows beforehand. flashing , housewrap etc . I've built parts of a house way out of sequence and told it was better and it turned out looking like trash . My ears perked on the lintels" header" being installed at the top . That's the way I like . But was told by some community college , online two week degree engineer that it's against Code because it needs to be placed atop the window opening and crippled up .. Why? .. He said for wind shear ?? On a brick veneered house ?? with brick ties at 18"x24" wall anchoring ?? Well .. I guess we need a header under the window sill as well . Because it will get the same amount of wind shear at the sill Einstein . Yes we used to use metal cross bracing of all types . Used to be let in bracing , then metal T bracing that needed to be scarfed in , Then metal strap bracing. Code here is 25% of the first and second must be structurally sheathed or engineered to comply . So nowadays . They just sheet the entire wall . Seemingly solves all problems of racking and shear without having to think . Pre-fab , Cross square and sheath on and out of level floor and get an automatic out of plumb wall . Brilliant my padawan learner ..
All of you guys in the ol' commonwealth need to get your terminology straight. There's nothing timber frame about 2x lumber. That is stick framing. Timber framing has wooden joints and is in full scale, close to square cross section, timber, usually 5x and up, and typically in white oak.And no - I'm not from the new world, trying to teach an old dog new tricks. Passing stick frames off for timber frames is simply nothing short of swindling people.
![Carpentry 101: Basics of Wood Framing with MattBangsWood [#1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/y8W7KbJTg7A/mqdefault.jpg)
![Carpentry 101: Basics of Wood Framing with MattBangsWood [#1]](/img/tr.png)
As someone looking to go owner-builder route, this was extremely helpful. Can't thank you enough for the information shared.
Dig your vids mate, love it how you just calmly, without ego explain your work
Thank you for including american framing terms and differences. Im an aspiring apprentice and that really helped bring attention to how beautiful you and your accent are❤.
We build very differently here in Australia than in America and yes for an American we do certainly sound funny to you guys lol
Very clear, concise explanations! Good work!
Thanks!
As someone who has just purchased their first investment property, this video was great in explaining the various framing structures. Informative when you specified the measurements and building codes, and type of timber used in each element. Will consider framing my own house one day! Good to know these things when looking at houses for structural soundness.
Your knowledge is amazing, really loving your explanations!! 🙌🏻
Thankyou!
Loving your content Dave! Informative, humble and you seem like a genuinely nice guy. If you can turn up on time and do what you say you’ll do then you’ll dominate. Keep it up.
Thanks mate!
Awesome to hear that you’re loving the videos, cheers!
Thanks Dave! As a sparky and fridgy who's always been fascinated in carpentry, your videos help me scratch that itch. (Although now im tempted to quit my hard-earned career and start a carpentry apprenticeship)
Fridgy here too, love these videos. You're right, Carpentry is truly a very fascinating trade!
Hey KaesOner, I’m a licensed carpenter that’s been doing 1st fix carpentry for 20 years here in Adelaide. Let me tell you if you don’t like hard work then carpentry isn’t for you. It’s extremely hard on the body and it’s more for men who are in their 20s and 30s not 40 and above. It’s extremely dangerous pretty much all the time you’re constantly walking on top of wall frames with 6-metre drops right next to you when you’re building the roof. I’m also constantly lifting roof trusses, LVL beams, and fibre cement sheeting, and HEBEL that weigh 40kg, 50kg, 60kg, and even 80kg plus on some occasions while walking up a ladder with that weight on your shoulder. Then you’re cold all the time during winter and walking in mud and then you’re always sunburned in summer and sweating all day. And the risk of injury is always there because of how dangerous all the tools are. I’ve sh0t myself 3 times with the nail gun and fell of the ladder before and broke a rib. And I had a guy cut his thumb off with a power saw right in front of me and I got worse stories than that!
The money is very good but so many people say they want to be carpenters and then they quit for all the reasons I’ve said above. Or I have to fire them because they simply can’t keep up with the workload and pace and have difficulty understand how it all works.
But Carpentry is the premier trade of all the trades and you could say we are the shot callers on site because we have the most detailed understanding of the entire construction process. And we can do every other trade but other trades can’t do our trade because how complex & detailed it is.
Hope that was helpful mate 👍
Oh and I forgot to say as well that even though I did wear ear protection I now have permanent ringing in my ears (Tinnitus) and hearing loss because of 20 years of daily using of petrol generators, nail guns, power saws, angle grinders, masonry drills, air compressors, explosive power tools, electric routers, electric planners etc etc. Your ears get hammered all day!
Huh?? Sparky to Chippy?? the opposite should be true...
Great explanation on everything mate keep up the great work
Thanks mate!
As a architecture student thanks bro this was awesome!
Thanks mate...Great content, you are really a smart dude to actually understand and explain the engineering behind. It would be great if you can make another video on reading the engineering plan on site while framing and explaining the common mistakes made, such as non compliance items
Excellent explanation..... One of your best videos. Thank you
Love the in depth explanations, sensational vid bro!
Thanks mate!
Great explanation mate. Be careful to allow a minimum of 15mm between the top reveal and head trimmer on all windows as per the AS, some windows looked like they were flirting with it. Keep up the good work bud.
Mate, these videos are brilliant. Keep it up.
Such a valuable explanation. Thank you so much. Really helpful. 👍
Dave, you are GUN! Your videos are so good, your explanations clear and spot on. You are so polite with coworkers, right on spec with what you do in every way. You have a huge career, interesting to see which direction you go. You'd be a top certifier (shish!) or presenter for The Block (ha!). Seriously but, I have owner-built two houses and renovated a third and your explanations would be very helpful for OBs starting out so bare them in mind as you make content, even though apprentices and builders are your main viewership.
PS: I have noticed in US vids they don't use nogs....is that 'cos they sheet the entire building? Whatdya think of that - seems incredible bracing but cost more?
Is it possible for you to do a video on how to do a Frame Inspection. Mate I love your videos. As a student , I find your videos very interactive. With lots of examples. I am aspiring to become a Building Inspector. If you would be kind enough to do either a series of small videos or one full length video where you go through each part of the frame and tell us what to look out for when doing a frame inspection. That will be great
One thing about the lintel positioning, I like the ease of putting them up against the plate, but a small consideration is the extra load bearing of the cladding that would be fixed below the lintel and potential ceiling joists/battens inside. It’s probably inn-effectual but something to consider.
A guy I worked with always put them over the window, flush with internal face if they weren't full depth. His reasoning was you have solid blocking for curtains/blinds over every window. I like your point though haven't thought of that.
After 20 years in the industry I am over this construction method. It had its days but there are better performing options now, offering better performance and cost effective solutions.
Like what?
@@benperkins2929 Post and and beam, straw bale, hempcrete, SIP, aerated concrete, CLT, prefabricated walls and roof elements, rammed earth, concrete........... Timber as such is a great material for building but the 4x2 method is like a fax machine OUTDATED and over priced if you look at costs vs performance
For example?
@
CLT, pre cast concrete, SIP, hempcrete, aerated concrete, straw bale, rammed earth etc...Standard timber framing might appear cheap but in the longer run it is very expensive in form of energy costs, heating, maintenance and life span.
If you have ever lived in a properly built house which provides comfort all year round without breaking the bank you understand.
It all depends where you are of course. Timber frame can still work too if it is the structure of a fully factory built wall. Assembling a timber framed house on site is too labour intense for a poor outcome and turning it into a well performing thermal envelope requires even more labour hours and costs.
Thanks for your time on this..Great stuff..Cheers!
Great videos. I don't think I have ever seen a lintel installed like that, certainly never detailed one installed that way.
Great video Dave you guys build pretty much exactly the same way as we do here in Adelaide.
You did an amazing job in explaining all the details! I’m wondering is all the used timber untreated?
Yes, it’s all untreated. The only time you use treated timber is for building anything outside the house where they will be exposed to termites balconies, decks, pergolas, stairs, fencing etc.
Excellent video....really well explained.
Thank you for the explanation. In Holland we prefabricate all these walls because of the weather. I engineer these walls, we have outside walls with 38x235mm studs, because of our insulation standards.
235mm studs is insane! Do you know how the framers stand these walls up? Would hate to know how heavy they are
The wall, floor and roof prefab elements are very heavy, so in the production hall they use a overhead crane for turning the prefabs around. On site they use mostly a telescopic crane or sometimes a tower crane. A residential building is set up in 2 or 3 days. Mind you that the prefabrication time is the same as you are making your buildings in place as a carpenter.
Most house frames are pre- fabed in a factory in Australia and delivered to site . Stood up by hand .
@@stewatparkpark2933 In Adelaide, we never use prefabricated wall frames ever. We make all our own wall frames on-site by ourselves. And because of everyone always using roof trusses, I’d say 90% of carpenters don’t even know how to build a conventional roof!
Awesome video! Looking to build my own studio and this was invaluable.
Can I ask how you secure the bottom plate to the slab? And does the termite sheet just go between the bottom plate and slab or is there a sill sheet/foam also.
Cheers!
your explaination is so clear! You are smart!
Learnt some good stuff today great video mate
Thanks mate!
Mate this was phenomenal. Your content is top tier. Any chance you could do a similar framing explanation / compliance info for decks?
Thankyou, I appreciate it!
I’d love to do that and also a full walk through on how to build a deck! Just waiting to get my next deck job
Bro would you recommend any Carpentry schools in Australia that foreign carpentry students can apply and for?
That would be really appreciated thanks
Ive seen lintels where the ledger is but it is out of hardwood. And the number of studs besides the opening that the lintel sits on is the number of studs that the opening disrupts.
Edit: im in the north whwre we also use full height threaded rod secured to a threaded rod set into the concrete, or through the joist / bearer and are called cyclone rods. We've even had to install double row noggins, double bottom plates and triple top plates.
Great video. I've always been a little confused by jamb studs. When engineering plans mention double or triple jamb studs beside openings over a certain width, does that mean the number of studs under the lintel, or beside the lintel? Ive seen both. For example, 2500 opening says triple jamb stud; would this mean 3 jamb studs under the lintel each side of the window/door, then one common stud to top plate each side?? (I've also seen 3 under lintel than 3 beside to plate as well) I've seen people just do a single jamb stud under lintel then 3 triple studs to the top plate. To me this isn't right as you aren't providing any more support to the lintel, just more support to the top plate. What's your take? Keep the videos coming mate.
The engineering plans for the job will have a table showing you how many studs they want under the lintel or beside the lintel. Depending on the job the engineer sometimes wants them to be done differently, typically for a triple stud, they call for 1 under the lintel and 2 running the full way up next to the lintel
I agree with you, I don’t think it makes much sense having 1 stud under the lintel and 2 running besides it. We just have to trust the engineers know what they’re doing 😂
Awesome stuff brother 👍
Thanks mate!
Thanks mate
Question: with the internal walls what is the plaster fixed to at the top? Is there not a 45mm gap from top plate to underside of truss?
when it rains accidentally, are these timber waterproof? and ideally need to finish the roofing too?
Awesome video mate!
Thanks mate!
Great video mate.
Awesome explanation
excellent explanation. New Subscriber here! Good Content!
In my US experience is p years ago, the short m jack studs that come down from the top of the wall to window top plates are called “cripples” because they have no legs. Not very kind term but helps distinguish from the jacks supporting from the bottom plate UP. Vs from top plate down.
Every is done completely different here in Australia mate. And all the terminology is different too.
Great video! Any ideas how they get away with no nogs in the US? They have crazy high walls without nogs (or blocking as they call it).
That's crazy you need noggings to stop the timber wall studs from bowing under load.
In Tas we always wrap the wall then cut the paper out and put the windows in couldn’t imagine doing it after would be a pain hah!
Don’t know why we’re doing it differently in Victoria, your way is so much easier!
My house has a top plate were part of it (one top plate) has been chewed in one corner by termites and has one of those v joins near it,would that effect anything do u reckon,obviously you cant see it but are they able to be replaced also?
Great video - very enlightening. On your ply-braced sections doesn't the extra thickness of the ply impact the external cladding? IE wouldn't you have to space out any cladding to make up for the thickness of the ply or are you ripping the studs down too keep the total width at 90mm?
Fantastic video thanks mate
I had a hard enough time moving from Washington DC to South Carolina and learning the lingo of carpentry . I have 43 years experience and every word I knew for one thing was called something else . I survived and got southified . Most everything you called out , We call differently. I never liked installing windows beforehand. flashing , housewrap etc . I've built parts of a house way out of sequence and told it was better and it turned out looking like trash . My ears perked on the lintels" header" being installed at the top . That's the way I like . But was told by some community college , online two week degree engineer that it's against Code because it needs to be placed atop the window opening and crippled up .. Why? .. He said for wind shear ?? On a brick veneered house ?? with brick ties at 18"x24" wall anchoring ?? Well .. I guess we need a header under the window sill as well . Because it will get the same amount of wind shear at the sill Einstein . Yes we used to use metal cross bracing of all types . Used to be let in bracing , then metal T bracing that needed to be scarfed in , Then metal strap bracing. Code here is 25% of the first and second must be structurally sheathed or engineered to comply . So nowadays . They just sheet the entire wall . Seemingly solves all problems of racking and shear without having to think . Pre-fab , Cross square and sheath on and out of level floor and get an automatic out of plumb wall . Brilliant my padawan learner ..
Dbl plate allows you to run bearing Timbers wherever needed
Nice work
Thankyou!
Is the new construction market in high demand in Australia like it is in North America?
As a carpenter mate we got more work than we can keep up with it’s insane. Too many people and not enough houses to put everyone!
Why do AU and NZ use so much Noggins/Dwangs/Horizontal studs compared to the US?
What is a good tool bag brand
It’s just personal preference and the more expensive the better the quality.
Good on you mate !
I want to work with you I am living in Melbourne south east I like your al videos great job
Insulation keeps out heat aswell as cold, Aussies should have far more insulation to maintain a cooler home
I am going to do carpentry when I am older with your business
❤❤
Can i learn from you to be a carpenter
second！
All of you guys in the ol' commonwealth need to get your terminology straight. There's nothing timber frame about 2x lumber. That is stick framing. Timber framing has wooden joints and is in full scale, close to square cross section, timber, usually 5x and up, and typically in white oak.And no - I'm not from the new world, trying to teach an old dog new tricks. Passing stick frames off for timber frames is simply nothing short of swindling people.
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That is not a timber frame
Yeah doesn't look like timber, looks like acrylic
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youre like the aussie josh chapman