You are correct. It does look as though one side of the tenon is a skoshe fatter than the other. The important thing is that the truss rod slot lines up with the centerline of the guitar.
Thanks for all of your videos, I've learned a ton. Will this jig work with ukes or is the depth of a uke too shallow and/or the curvature at the neck block too much? I'm on my sixth soprano using butt joints and dowels and have consistently had trouble getting a good tight fit between the heel and the body. I want to move to a mortise and tenon joint and like the simplicity and utility of your design.
It has to do with the thickness of the bridge I am shooting for. With the fretboard and fretwire installed I want a gap of 11mm. That means my bridge will be about 9.5mm
In this TH-cam you recommend 3.5MM gap between the bottom of the straight edge and top of soundboard at the saddle location. In your DVD Building a steel string guitar you recommend between 1.5 and 2.5 at between the top of the sound board and bottom of a straight edge at the saddle location. Is the difference due to different style of guitars?
It all depends on the bridge and saddle height you want. If you shoot for a gap of 3.5mm then you bridge height would be in the 9mm-10mm height. If you shoot for a gap of 1.5mm-2.5mm then your bridge height with be in the 7.5mm -8.5mm range.
Are there plans available for this cool neck joint jig? I like the neck angle adjustment capabilities. There might need to be some minor modification to this jig design, to allow for clamping an archtorp jazz guitar body. Thanks.
I’m building my first guitar and having trouble setting the tenon to the mortise. Is the neck block angled just where the sides meet the body or is the tenon also angled as a whole to the body? Thanks
The end of the tenon I cut an angle before putting it into the jig. It doesn't really matter what that angle is because the tenon doesn't bottom out in the mortise cavity. The sides or cheeks where the neck meets the body must have the correct angle.
You are correct. It does look as though one side of the tenon is a skoshe fatter than the other. The important thing is that the truss rod slot lines up with the centerline of the guitar.
Thanks for all of your videos, I've learned a ton. Will this jig work with ukes or is the depth of a uke too shallow and/or the curvature at the neck block too much? I'm on my sixth soprano using butt joints and dowels and have consistently had trouble getting a good tight fit between the heel and the body. I want to move to a mortise and tenon joint and like the simplicity and utility of your design.
@colin4kendall good observation! Yes, the fretboard should taper down from the 14th fret to the soundhole about 1/32
@OBrienGuitars oh I know, I have a Ryobi plunge router now, but I like the mechanism on that Porter Cable. Thinking of trading up.
Can you provide a brief explanation as to why 3.5mm clearance at the saddle location is the goal? Thanks
It has to do with the thickness of the bridge I am shooting for. With the fretboard and fretwire installed I want a gap of 11mm. That means my bridge will be about 9.5mm
@sirgreggins8824 I am not sure what model number it is but it really doesn't matter. Any router will work as long as it has a plunge base.
In this TH-cam you recommend 3.5MM gap between the bottom of the straight edge and top of soundboard at the saddle location. In your DVD Building a steel string guitar you recommend between 1.5 and 2.5 at between the top of the sound board and bottom of a straight edge at the saddle location. Is the difference due to different style of guitars?
It all depends on the bridge and saddle height you want. If you shoot for a gap of 3.5mm then you bridge height would be in the 9mm-10mm height. If you shoot for a gap of 1.5mm-2.5mm then your bridge height with be in the 7.5mm -8.5mm range.
OBrienGuitars thanks again Robert that is really helpful and makes sense.
great video
Are there plans available for this cool neck joint jig?
I like the neck angle adjustment capabilities.
There might need to be some minor modification to this jig design, to allow for clamping an archtorp jazz guitar body.
Thanks.
I’m building my first guitar and having trouble setting the tenon to the mortise. Is the neck block angled just where the sides meet the body or is the tenon also angled as a whole to the body? Thanks
The end of the tenon I cut an angle before putting it into the jig. It doesn't really matter what that angle is because the tenon doesn't bottom out in the mortise cavity. The sides or cheeks where the neck meets the body must have the correct angle.
@@OBrienGuitars okay thank you. That answers my question!
What router model is that? Porter Cable obviously but, i like the spring loaded plunge lock
tell me the place where you see this please.
how do i get the plans for this thanks bill
You would need to adapt the jig to hold the instrument. I am sure you can come up with something. Good luck.
@cjorg16 Yes, I have cad drawings of this jig. I charge 20 bucks for them. Send me an email at robiii65@hotmail.com if you want a copy.
I sell the plans for US$20. Contact me via my website for payment details.