My 25 yrs old Moen shower valve had to be replaced, but it got stuck and I struggled to get it out, the cold and hot CPVC lines snapped, didn't know what to do, emergency call to plumber who placed 2 sharkbite caps to stop the flow so I can turn the water back on in the house. I am in the middle of replacing it myself, got a quote for $1500 (part+labor). I called Moen, their stuff is lifetime warranty, they sent me a free replacement posi-temp valve. I purchased a few things I didn't have (torch, copper fittings & pipe, sharkebite fittings, pex-A pipe, pex-a expansion tool) I accessed the valve from the back, added an access panel for future use, added 2 ball valves (pex-a). I'm still not done completely, I take my time, it's great to have another shower I can use. Quite a project, will have some tile work to do too, but I'm confident this will save me a bunch.
I had to access my valve from the tub side and that meant knocking out three wall tiles to gain enough room to replace the valve with a new one, a bit of a messy job but had no choice. Have to replace the tiles and cement board also. But it was all done but took some time to complete.
Those can be tough. Search Amazon for a "remodel shower plate" and see if one of those might cover the hole. They look nice and can save a lot of hassle. Best of luck on your project!
While always a good idea, if you're replacing an existing mixing valve, you may not be looking to try to add them. They're simple enough, but would add a lot of complexity to this job. I always add them, though, if it's plumbed in copper or CPVC. If is plumbed in PEX, I skip them as they're unnecessary due to the PEX ability to absorb water hammer.
Hello! The problem is that you can't turn the fittings without cutting the copper. Therefore, you could choose to cut the copper just back from the fitting, replace the valve, then reattach the copper by soldering in new couplings.
@@Teach2Build gotcha. That's kind of what I was figuring. There is no access to the back through a closet or anything so this isn't looking great. THANK YOU THOUGH FOR THE QUICK RESPONSE!!
I have access from behind. I dont have the width that you had behind. The elbows are right next to the existing valve with little to no space between the joint. My new valve is larger. Am I going to have to add pipe to space them out around the new valve? Can they be on an angle bowing out or do the have to run straight?
A lot of that depends on whether you're using copper or pex. It can be challenging when things are a tight fit, but with the right fittings and a dose of patience, you can do this. Best of luck!
You can, but it's not as easy as it sounds. You have to get the pipe very clean of existing solder in order to get it inserted in the new valve, and that involves heating and wiping while it's still hot enough for the solder to flow. It can be done that way, though, yes.
That's definitely the cost-effective way to go, but sometimes folks want a fresh look they can't get with the current mixing valve. Also, occasionally, a bad cartridge will m pretty much weld itself in there.
I've had two of these valves fail, that were less than 12 years old. The brass part of the valve cracked at a seam. Replacing the cartridge wouldn't help I'm afraid. I'd love to know how old valves lasted a lifetime and the new stuff breaks in 11 years ? I don't want to disparage a brand but it rhymes with Owen :)
Nice to know that there are repair sleeves for copper pipe. That would make it easier to do. Thank you for this information.
160-300$? Man, thats a grand in WA now. Great video. Super helpful and clear. Awesome content.
Yeah, pricing didn't age well. Pretty big jumps in cost since this video was produced 12 years ago...
Thank you so much, you're a great instructor
My 25 yrs old Moen shower valve had to be replaced, but it got stuck and I struggled to get it out, the cold and hot CPVC lines snapped, didn't know what to do, emergency call to plumber who placed 2 sharkbite caps to stop the flow so I can turn the water back on in the house. I am in the middle of replacing it myself, got a quote for $1500 (part+labor). I called Moen, their stuff is lifetime warranty, they sent me a free replacement posi-temp valve. I purchased a few things I didn't have (torch, copper fittings & pipe, sharkebite fittings, pex-A pipe, pex-a expansion tool) I accessed the valve from the back, added an access panel for future use, added 2 ball valves (pex-a). I'm still not done completely, I take my time, it's great to have another shower I can use. Quite a project, will have some tile work to do too, but I'm confident this will save me a bunch.
@rejeanpaquet4375 stories like yours inspire us all to tackle that project, and save a little money along the way. Thanks for sharing, and take care!
Nice guy, soft spoken, yet terse.
I had to access my valve from the tub side and that meant knocking out three wall tiles to gain enough room to replace the valve with a new one, a bit of a messy job but had no choice. Have to replace the tiles and cement board also. But it was all done but took some time to complete.
Those can be tough. Search Amazon for a "remodel shower plate" and see if one of those might cover the hole. They look nice and can save a lot of hassle. Best of luck on your project!
Water hammer arrestors not required?
While always a good idea, if you're replacing an existing mixing valve, you may not be looking to try to add them. They're simple enough, but would add a lot of complexity to this job. I always add them, though, if it's plumbed in copper or CPVC. If is plumbed in PEX, I skip them as they're unnecessary due to the PEX ability to absorb water hammer.
Why are you slip coupler. Couldn't you move uprights enough to fit regular coupler?
You often can, yes, but moving the ends that way risks damage to the pipes. Lots to consider.
So I am assuming you can't just replace the valve at the threads you have to sweat in new pipes or can you do it just at the threads
Hello! The problem is that you can't turn the fittings without cutting the copper. Therefore, you could choose to cut the copper just back from the fitting, replace the valve, then reattach the copper by soldering in new couplings.
@@Teach2Build gotcha. That's kind of what I was figuring. There is no access to the back through a closet or anything so this isn't looking great. THANK YOU THOUGH FOR THE QUICK RESPONSE!!
Sounds like you have your work cut out for you. Best of luck!
I have access from behind. I dont have the width that you had behind. The elbows are right next to the existing valve with little to no space between the joint. My new valve is larger. Am I going to have to add pipe to space them out around the new valve? Can they be on an angle bowing out or do the have to run straight?
A lot of that depends on whether you're using copper or pex. It can be challenging when things are a tight fit, but with the right fittings and a dose of patience, you can do this. Best of luck!
Excellent! Thank you
Good stuff. Thanks!
Thank you very much
Look easy in the video, but when you there? I was there and in old houses !!!🤯😖😨🤣🤣🤣
Replaced my share of tough ones, for sure. Keep it up!
Got enough solder bud?
Right? As I mentioned, my joints aren't exactly gorgeous, but they're tight. And they never leak due to not enough solder, that's for sure.
@@Teach2Build im just giving you shit brother, good video 🤙🇺🇲
You can't unsolder the pipes and re-attach them with a new shower control?
You can, but it's not as easy as it sounds. You have to get the pipe very clean of existing solder in order to get it inserted in the new valve, and that involves heating and wiping while it's still hot enough for the solder to flow. It can be done that way, though, yes.
epic video, i really liked it very professional
Thank you
Excellent.
Why change it? Why not just replace the cartridge ?
That's definitely the cost-effective way to go, but sometimes folks want a fresh look they can't get with the current mixing valve. Also, occasionally, a bad cartridge will m pretty much weld itself in there.
You don’t want your old faucet from the 90s hanging around lol
LOL @ fire extinguisher on wall stage setup LOL
No water coming out of the faucet.
Oh man. That's a bummer, with lots of potential causes. If it's a recent development, you probably need a replacement cartridge. Best of luck!
Why don't you just replace the cartridge that takes care of all those issues
I've had two of these valves fail, that were less than 12 years old. The brass part of the valve cracked at a seam. Replacing the cartridge wouldn't help I'm afraid. I'd love to know how old valves lasted a lifetime and the new stuff breaks in 11 years ? I don't want to disparage a brand but it rhymes with Owen :)
Did he really apply the flux inside the pipe 🤦♂️
Nope. It goes on the outside of the pipe and the inside of fittings.
I was told 950 for the job
That's a big hit. Sometimes there are extenuating circumstances, but that's still a lot. Hope everything works out well for you.
You need some serious help in your soldering.
Soldering is an art form, isn't it? Feel free to throw up a video of your own skills in action as I'm always looking to improve!
@@Teach2Build thanks from ur tutorial , i learned from it
When you in a job, is not you job That's happen buddy!!!!😂😂😂👍
Teach2Build trust. I’ll out do you. Lol