Good morning, Rick L. Answer. Yes, this lesson helps and just before I'm about to start shopping for wood to mount orchids for the first time. Your tour and comments are worth more than you might think. The "Halo Effect" you pointed out shows up well along with internal veining pattern on the leaves, so your explanation while exhibiting the magnesium deficiency link was very clear. Just keep sharing what you see with your orchids because it draws people like me in to focus on what you are finding. Your videoes give me the feeling of being back in a college lecture hall with the most competent professor who is able to make everyone feel at ease and comfortable with the content being taught. Honestly, your videos are so much like a college course... ONLY EXPONENTIALLY BETTER, in my humble opinion. And, your wooden heart-of-pine mount is an 'eye-tooth envy' to this old kritter. Thank you so much from Columbus. Date: April 21, 2018
Wow Rick that purple den is beautiful, everything looks super healthy.....I repoted an orchid today and use one of your clip ideas.......you should patent them...lol
Sorry about your orchids. Please keep us in touch with the progress on these. Great eye on narrowing down the culprit. Phals are fighters! Great video, thank you for sharing.
Your thinking as you tracked down the apparent cause. It is so good to hear your voice again. I hope all is going well with you. I will be away for a while as I have a shoulder replacement-long story.
.........Oh no Karen, sorry to hear......well, if its any help........I love mine, .wish I had both replaced......100% movement, and stronger than the original........I can do things with this one I couldn't with the real one....never had any PT after the surgery either.....I wish you luck, ...prayers and good thoughts for you and the docs...please let me know when your up and about........Hugs ...Rick
I shared this on Facebook to someone asking about their P. schilleriana. This video made so much sence and changed how I grow several species when I saw it last year. You are still teaching and making a difference. Thank you.
Very informative video. It's always good to learn something new. I struggle with the phals. I did learn that mine do not do well in inert media. I have lost more rescues. They just love the spaghmum moss. I have experimented with full and partial water culture too. I saved about 5 by wrapping the roots in moss, and they have beautiful new roots/growing tips. I am in central Florida, so I know that has something to do with it. We're mid 80s and up with oppressive humidity. Everything else loves it, in fact my vandas bloomed throughout the winter. I know that you will save those phals. Thanks for sharing. You have helped me to understand my plants and how they grow. Happy growing!
Wow - very healthy looking plants. You definitely have a great green thumb(s)! Your grow space is ideal for orchid growing! Thank you for all your valuable time teaching us the ins & outs of orchid care! Bless you!!!
I agree with an earlier comment. Cut the spikes, and seal with cinnamon (only Phalaenopsis). The following is a recommendAtion for Phalaenopsis in the baskets only. Try removing only the sponge part of the roots, and leave the center root. Soak them first. It pulls right off. Reason being, it will reduce poss bacterial issues, yet still hydrate until new healthy roots grow. It also helps to anchor them which I feel is better for root regeneration. ( Re anchorage: I like your river rock & clay pot methodology; it saved a number of my orchids). It is NOT NECESSARY to do this on all roots, & can be done over time as you determine die off. Other references about the root 💡 on Danielle's Orchid Ranch & Jacklyn ( Canada ). Just a few tricks that worked for me.
.....love those channels, and great info......the roots are still hydrating, and firm, the soft ones I have removed, they just dont have any active growth tips........the spikes i am thinking about......thank you for the info..
its good that you found the problem.. you will have a lot of repotting to do... or remounting on better wood that is not killing the plants... dunking them in water to help the roots to move...carefully Rick.. and gently prying good luck.. and never give up on them.... they are trying to do their part but in time they will come back.. and remember its a learning curve for everyone...we are not perfect.. looking forward to seeing what you are doing...
Very good advice. I make my own mounts from cedarwood and they do great. Sometimes people give me pieces of driftwood, and I notice that orchids don't attach good on it, cedarwood Oh boy! they go crazy. Thank you again for your advice.
Hi Rick, I enjoy your in depth explanations of specific issues with your plants! I listened to a video of yours about a week ago where you were using the cedar cubes in your pots and how the orchids seemed to love the cedar. Well, I decided to get some more cedar. All they had a Lowes was the shredded cedar, but I decided to use it on the top of some of my orchids, and low and behold, the ochids responded immediately. The leaves were greener and clearly happier. I have several of my plants in cedar boxes, same thing, the roots clung to the sides and loved being next to the cedar. Then I recalled a phal I had on a mount several months ago, that didn't do well. The roots were growing away from the wood and did not want to attach to the wood. Might have been red oak? Anyway, I did remove the phal from the mount and put it in a pot. It is doing fine and growing. But I did want to mention another thing regarding the cedar medium. I did have some knots or noseums or something flying around a few weeks ago, and now with the addition of the shredded cedar, they have all disappeared. I also agree with the terpenes theory as these compounds can be very strong. But the cedar in any form, whether it is shredded, chips, mount, or basket is a winner in all respects! Very interesting! BAD BAD RED OAK! LOL! So now I am using the shredded along with some cedar chips I got to add to many of my orchids as they are responding very well and the bug situation is a bonus! Thanks for all the detail. IMPORTANT STUFF! Thanks again, Rita
.....love hearing of hands on experiences.......wonderful stuff Rita.......they love Cedar......I also use cypress in baskets, with some of them.......my Maxilaria tenfolia are in cypress chips with lava rock........doing very well. Any wood that has good decay resistance........like cedar, cypress, heart pine, they thrive on........thanks for all your great questions and kind words........have a wonderful thanksgiving....Rick
My last house was in an oak grove..nothing would grow under them, except more oaks and Rhododendron.....too much tanic acid in the leaves...and loads of bugs
Wow the burgundy black Dendrobium was a dumpster plant? It is gorgeous. Red oak grows in acidic soil - the leaves and wood are acidic too. Thank goodness you deduced this.
Wow Rick. I hate to hear that about the mounts. I think you are right though, about taking them off the red oak. They probably wont do any good if left on. I have taken some plants off mounts. If you soak them real good you can slide a thin knife under them. Probably will set them back some but you do such good things with the plants, they will pop back. Thanks for showing us the problem. It will teach us. I wouldn't have thought red oak would do that, but I'm glad you figured it out now before you lost the plants. Best of luck and thanks again for your info.
Hi Rick, thank you. I can't find the alaska calcium, but I do have Cal-Mag, same as yours. I also want to wish you and your family a very special THANKSGIVING, we have to be very thankful, God bless.
Good detective work, Rick! Thanks for sharing with all of us and sorry that this happened. But we all can learn from each other's mistakes. Hopefully you caught this early enough to save them! We are all rooting for you! Oops that"s a bad pun! lol!
You always do such a good video you are in my prayers and so is your wife I can’t imagine having so much ran a couple as sweet as you. I hurt my back this last weekend pulling in my big plant because of the freeze but this morning I got up and I realized I had to water my orchids so I put them in the kitchen sink and did what you said about fertilizing and let him stand in water but I don’t know how long to leave them so I left them until the roots were dark and greenWhat a mess in the kitchen. I would love to get a greenhouse one day maybe. I don’t know if years are in the greenhouse I know some other people have their plants in green houses which I listen to all of the ones on plants I love plants God bless you
I heard that lime stones helps raising the pH, and thus, boosts bloomings of your orchids. I am not sure how true this is but will surely give it a go one day!
.....close.....the limestone provides Calcium and some trace magnesium....they in turn allow the plant too grow better,......its like the Garden Lime I recommend using.....
rick hello again my friend , with my phals i tried a large pot with no holes in and large bark chips for medium , i water about once every 3 weeks and fertilisers added , this year we had 2 shoots about 1 mt in length and very large flowers , in the wild they hanker onto a tree and send roots into a crevice which contain tree sap but the other roots are just air roots as you know so this phal has been in the same media for about 2 years now so fingers crossed , keep well mate david
Process of elimination - common denominator found! Good luck with the rescues (this is the bit where you remember just what tough little cookies these orchids are and as long as there are some roots that can still absorb, they'll bounce back). I'll be keeping a close eye on some of my mounts - although it's not 'Red Oak', I do have quite a few mounts where I used English Oak collected from fallen trees in the forest. I do have one Dendrobium harveyanum that doesn't seem to like it's mount - maybe a change of wood? or even in a pot for a while to give the roots a chance to recover.
oaks contain tannin (a polyphenol), which is used for tanning hide into leather. strangely enough cork bark, which is harvested from the cork oak, does not seem to have any adverse effects.
thanks Roger......i should have known better, and saw it happening, but didnt link it all together till yesterday.........just a few mounts effected....but still small setback for those........better now than in the fall......
Oh my gosh, that stinks, Rick. I hate learning the hard way. It looks like you have your work cut out for you. On the bright side (for us), you can make videos treating or removing the orchids. Hopefully the plants will recover.
Rick, your videos on growing have helped me figure out so much! I started adding chunks of wood to the rainwater I use, and not a week later my rhynchostylis branched 2 new roots after being dormant for 3 months, my oncidiums put out 3 new growths and roots, and my cattleya cutting put out 4 new roots! when i get more settled i can begin fertilizing to get some new shoots. As far as your mounts and fungal issues go, did you oven bake them to sterilize the wood before using them as mounts? I would recommend physan20 to kill off the fungus thats already taken hold. It's an algicide, fungicide, bactericide, and virucide. I bet if you start treating the wood that's already affected, you won't have to rip apart any of your beautiful mounts.
....wonderful feedback, the wood helps drop the ph and the plants feed better.....Good question, but no....I didnt bake them.......its only the red oak mounts that are having this issue, the rest are doing great.....I did use several types of Fungicides....works for while, but the decay keeps coming back.......i chose wrong wood type.......they will bounce back, and its only a few.....thank you
i love that trashcan dendrobium, great color..:) i start to think that you enjoy roots and new growts even more then flowers..:D its gonna be a job but i think that you need to remount all the red oak plants..
.......roots and new growths I never tire of......lol...........your right, I hate to remove them, but it needs to be done, they will respond quickly I think.........thank you
Wow! That was interesting. Who would have thought. Very observant of you. My husband told me childhood stories playing in the forests in Europe. The oak forests were scarier to be in. Only a few leafy plants would grow, not many, and I guess they are quite susceptible to mold/fungus, mushrooms that animals would eat but children were told not to touch. Back then lot's of cases of mushroom poisoning in children, and it was a very bad way to go. The acacia and other forests were happy with more plants and flowers to collect, as they could earn some money selling these flower bouquets at train stations. Don't want to write a novel here ha!ha!, but thought you wouldn't mind if I shared this story. It could be the mold/fungus killing the roots, or that red oak has those certain properties that disallow certain or most plants to survive around them, except for that variety that my husband recalls as a child. In any case, hope you are able to save the orchids, even with a setback as growing season is upon you. Stay well my friend and thanks for this fascinating subject.
Hi Rick, I'm not a very experienced grower, but have heard that if an orchid is sick, it helps to cut the spike to allow all of it's energy to go to the root area instead. I'm sure it will recover in time. You have a green thumb!
Hi Rick. Perhaps red oak have natural defenses from climbers such ivy and epiphyte plants. As for my phals I’ve experienced that if they’re weak and a drastic media changed is made, ie moss to leca - the shock of changing seems to set them back too much and growth afterwards progresses very slowly. I’m trying to keep phals that were in spent moss, to replace the moss with moss and an addition of a little bark, and let them strengthen before going to leca. I have phals that were strong and converted to leca do really great in leca and because I can control the dry wet cycle easily as well as controlling nutrients, they’re sights to behold. My collection is small so I can keep an eye on each individual plant. But perhaps the learning experience will be limited. But then I can keep control (?) of issues such as bugs and viruses and fugal infections without it running rampant. And being in a home environment I think is might be best, though every time I go to an orchid show, small becomes a smaller word 😬. Anyways, food for thought. Thanks again for sharing yours also. Always a learning experience from you.
Thomas.....you hit on such a important growing point..."Control"......with control....things dont go south as fast.......your doing exactly what growers should do......change slowly and watch the plants for signs of growth.........thank you
Hey Rick, I recently watched a video from Orchid Whisperer where she had used sphagnum moss to help encourage her phals to initiate new roots. Maybe it might work for that one you are having a bad time with...I have used this method a few times...and it helped a few of my stubborn phals...You could contact her for more details...just a thought... Thanks again for all your videos and helpful ideas.☺ Good luck with your phal..Stay healthy my friend... Joe
thank you Joe......Amy has a great show, and I had thought about doing that......but I can keep them hydrated easily, and I want to watch the root growth closely....
Hi Rick - hope your “red oaks” mounts are doing better - note the below due to breakdown of red oak, and it’s different tube structure. I don’t know if it will help but oaks in general are used for boatbuilding and for their high tannins used in tanning hides, i.e., “oak tanned leather” all for thousands of years; however; red oak is different bird. See below a statement I pulled from two boat building websites. It sounds like red oak may not have as high tannins as white but also the tube structure of red oak may be sucking up a lot of the moisture too allowing it to break down faster, becoming more acid. Even though red oak is lower in tannin than say white oak or other oaks, it may produce enough to react with certain chemicals - fertilizers. I hope the oak info below helps to give you some info. Of course, we use cedar, cypress and other tropical hardwoods for our decks, home siding, etc because the natural resins resist decay and insects for a longer time, thus those mounts should last for years. There is a youtube channel on boat building - “Tips from a ship wright ” that has a good video that shows the difference in how the red oak vs white oak draws up moisture. He talks about issues with salt water and fresh. m.th-cam.com/video/L6t2AZubF8U/w-d-xo.html I wonder if you could seal (penetrating or topical) or even white non toxic matt finish glue) those mounts in such a way as to not affect the plants and to stop the penetration of moisture and any chemical reactions with the tannins. “Red Oak is not suitable for lumber used in boatbuildingSadly, for boatbuilders this attractive and otherwise useful lumber has a defect that makes it unsuitable for boatbuilding. It has an open structure and the small open capillary tubes can suck in moisture and draw it up several inches into the wood. This open structure make it readily subject to moisture infiltration. Once wet it is hard to dry the lumber and this makes it a victim of rapid decay. Although it has tannin, being wet for long periods make it a victim of fungus and bacterial attack. This tendency to rot is diminished when the wood is pressure treated. It readily absorbs the treatment because of its open structure. Pressure treated red oak has been used as fence posts and railroad ties and as construction lumber. It is sometimes possible to see the fairly large pores of the wood. Red Oak is not very dimensionally stable and will shrink quite a lot. Because it reacts with iron, screws and other fasteners often stain the wood. Unlike red oak, white oak produces blockages in the vascular capillaries of the xylem called tyloses. These occur mostly in the heartwood. These effectively limit water flow and close the tubes. This prevents capillary action and greatly reduces moisture penetration and attack by mould and other organisms. This ability to restrict moisture entry makes the wood less susceptible to decay. White oak sapwood is not as moisture resistant as heartwood because it has not developed the blocking tyloses. White Oak is rated as durable and is more resistant to decay than red oak. ..... If you place a piece of oak endgrain down in a glass of water or better alcohol, the red oak will allow the liquid to rise very quickly up the wood, White oak will get the end wet but the liquid will not be sucked up very high or very quickly.”
I would cut the spikes from the 2 struggling Phals, so they can dedicate that energy towards roots and leaves. I'm off to do some research on wood now. I've got some sycamore and dogwood I was thinking of using as mounts. Now I'm not so sure...
........Im thinking the same, but want to see if they start roots in few days.......Sycamore is a soft wood, may decay to fast........dogwood, Im not sure.......need to see if they give off any chemicals...
Rick L. Orchids I was afraid of sycamore being to soft! It's so beautiful, I was hoping I could use it for a latoria type dendrobium. I was planning on looking it up but thanks to you I don't have to. 😀 The dogwood has some really cool knots in it. I just looked it up and it's a very dense hardwood, but I can't find anything about whether they leach chemicals.
Maybe the rainwater and teabag would encourage the phals to grow new roots Ricky, as well as help rehydration, unless the red oak has poisoned it, but maybe worth a try? A lot of people, me included, have success growing new roots on phals in rain water culture, although it may take a month or more from my own experience I recommend it as worth a try if your roots have died, and you want to save the phal.😊 Sounds like oak is best avoided from your experience for mounts, interested to see how Rogers do on English oak, but doesn’t sound favourable.😞
thanks Chris......after a few days to think about this, and look a few things up.......red oak has a long open cell structure.....it soaks up the water and nutrients and holds them......when the mount dries out the salts concentrate and they burn the roots off.......White oak, has a short, cell structure,....moisture can barely penetrate the wood due to that......... its preferred and used in boat building, because of its cell structure......English oak has a twisted grain......hopefully it will not absorb as much water for Roger.........the tea soak is a good idea, but they need some Ca to start roots..........
I use cork bark for all my mounts...occasionally I'll have an issue. I have noticed some orchids react differently of what you mount or plant them on. I have went to media-less planting and the difference is very evident on the orchids...some take off other not so much with new roots....but I should not be quick to judge because until now I've had very few sunny days and cold for April so I will reserve judgement....have not been able to get stone or lava rock yet....I suspect any day now it will become available...due to miserable weather here I assume! Warming up for few days and sunny so plants should take off in the root dept! This was a good video concentrating on an often overlooked issue!
thanks David......I agree, and thankfully, the learning curve with orchids is large.......may I ask were you get your cork bark at?........that stuff is expensive around here......$15-$20 for 6x6 piece.....
Those Phals will be fine. Get all those dead roots off ASAP! Those spikes need to go too, they don't need to be giving energy to a non essential part of the plant when they need to be growing roots. They still have plenty of leaves which is always something. The beauty of phals is that they are amazing at bouncing back, so as long as there is green, there is always hope! I have had plenty of rootless phals bounce back. Just provide some light and constant moisture around the base. I usually just sit them on top of some bark (highly recommend the seramis orchid mix) and then every day I mist around. Before you know it new roots will start appearing. You can do it Rick!!! If you need some extra advice just ask, I have dealt with so many rootless phals .
wonderful advice LouLou.........they recycle/ re-absorb their spikes for the P & K, so I dont want to rob them of nutrients at this time unless no other choice. I dont want them to dip into their reserves anymore either, so I need to give them some nutrients......just trace amounts.........I want them to wet / dry cycle a lot for the next week or so.....help absorb nutrients faster.......thank you very much, I will reach out if needed.......very kind.
Thanks for your video l always enjoy them but l have one request can l please see more of your blooms you always focus on your plants and roots but l so love to see lots of blooms also hope you don't mind hope you correct your situation soon all the best
Appreciate the information that you provided in this video. I have issues with phals as well so everything that you mentioned is helpful to me. I am slowly learning of the importance of nutrients for the growth habits of orchids. Do you think there is something inherent in the red oak that is causing the issues? I wonder if something in the aging process is troublesome. I have found that one of my miniatures is growing like crazy now - I mounted it on a piece of aged pine just before the growing season. I try to use aged driftwood and cypress for most of my mountings. I hope you will continue with this topic and how your plants respond to changing the mounting material. Very helpful for everyone. (One final comment - why didn't you remove the spikes on the ailing phals? Seems that would help with the plant's health.) Good video. Keep 'em coming.
great questions Pat.......i will remove the spikes if they need it.......the spikes are for recycling P & K , important for the plants reserves......No doubt the red oak contains to much acid and other enzymes that are prohibiting root growth, I prefer cypress, cedar and heart pine.........lesson learned
I just mounted a rescue Phal that has beautiful huge white blooms. I got the wood from an orchid grower. I don’t know what kind of wood it is. The roots were squishy and horrible on this Phal. I cut off the dead parts. A day later the leaves are limp and droopy. I soaked it in a light solution of cal mag. But no improvement. Any suggestions or hope for me? Your videos have awakened a love for orchids in me thanks so much Rick.
.......your doing about all you can do....the calmag would really help at this time....soaking the entire plant is best,...... they absorb thru the leaves better than the roots...if its not hydrating......it just may be not able to anymore.....some of the phals we get, have been so abused in the stores and thru shipping... that there's not much you can do.........I soak a limp plant for hours.....even over night.....in a warm spot is better than a cool one......Phals are beautiful and love to bloom..a .very misunderstood orchid I think.......a plant that doesn't respond.....toss it..... it may have viral or other issues. ...........not worth endangering your collection for.......good luck Pamela..
It's a good thing that you discovered what the problem is before the mounted orchids deteriorated any further. It's going to be tough to remount them though. I wonder if they would experience the same issues if they were growing on a live red oak tree? How often are you foliar feeding them? Every day?
yes to the foliar feed.........thats a good question, ... I found in several books where orchids grow on oak trees.......live vs dead would be a big difference though, Andrew above found the answer I believe...........Thanks Caroline..
It's a shame that you aren't going to be able to use the red oak as a mount because I think the wood is really nice. If I lived in a warmer climate, I would try mounting one on a white oak...I think that would be so cool! A quick question about the foliar feed...what level of the cal/mag are you using? 10 ppm? Around the same for the epsom salt? I want to try a foliar feed on my rescue dendrobium but I don't want to make the dosage too high. :)
Hey dear a couple months back he subscribed to my channel and left a couple messages. I jumped for joy because he subscribed to me. I do hear from him and Jan once in a while. I usually let folks know on my channel when I hear from him. 😁
Hi Rick! I once heard that hardwoods have natural anti-bacterial properties and that is why they make such great chopping blocks and cooking utensils....could it be that the red oak kills off some microorganisms which the orchids live in symbiotic harmony with, perhaps even depend upon? Bless you, buddy! Cara Coomer
I have to tell you that your black wood and mold on the mounts made a bell go off in my head. I have a small Cattleya that I put in a purchased wooded basket back in 2016.(typical teak style orchid basket). It has continued to not do well and not bloom. I've previously noticed the black wood and a powdery soot on the wood. I "cleaned" it but it came right back. Kinda just been ignoring it for now with uncertainty. Then after watching your video, I looked again and it not only has the black wood but also the white mold on the bottom of the basket. Are even baskets are not sacred!!
I had a problem with red oak as well and I'm curious as to weather or not you remounted or potted your oak stressed orchids and what they look like now. It's so seldom I see a sick plant in your collection I kinda wanted to follow the change.
......Allen, I had several mounts, as well as Phals in baskets, etc.........i can honestly say....every single plant has made a complete turn around.....and are growing better than expected.......seems as soon as I take them off and give them a good rinse.......i see new root growth with in days........was a "huge " mistake I learned from....be happy to do an update...
I am using bark...i have repotted all my orchids as soon as i buy them because i worry about rotten roots. I have one in water culture..about an inch of water in the Brandy sniffer and it's doing ok keeping is spikes and growing a new leaf...BIG QUESTION...HOW OFTEN CAN I FEED THEM.. THE ONES IN THE BARK. I flash in dehumidifier water and then soak for about 10 minutes in weak fertilizer...less than one fourth the dose... I also have a few river rocks in bottom of pit to cover hole and have been adding Ric8ks to the top of the clay pots top keep them from falling over because they ate top heavy due to blooms... all phals...all new since November...
…...I feed with every water...…mine never get plain water. ...Now,... you can only water as often as the media dries out.....airflow is key to them drying out...….the more airflow the faster they dry back...….
its not in any media as of now..i only have one root..i dont have calcium either..not sure if thats even anything i can get locally...i did message you for your thoughts on it..
heather jarrell You can always try SWC to kick start root growth. I always done a couple of hours a day soaking then let it sit dry. The roots that came out that way had a much easier time adapting to the bark medium when I moved it back. Then you can start feeding it again.
I mounted them..........they were small baby orchids from Lowes mainly......the wood is from a friend of mine that hunts a lot.....he brings me the pieces as he finds them.....I soak them when they are inside........outside they get rained on and sprayed by me....
Rick - I desperately need your help. I and my neighbor have about 30 orchids that are mostly Phals. We have them planted in glass planters with two holes drilled in them and LECA. We use distilled water, good food, CalMag and a pH of 5.5 - 6.5. They are dying one after the other and we've lost nearly half already. We replant from bark/moss to LECA as soon as we get them and usually the roots are in good shape. But after not much time, the roots are turning yellow then brown and mushy until they're all dead. We water them about once a week. The roots don't sit in water. The rot often then goes to the stem. Temperature is about 70 and humidity 60-70. This happens to every one of them eventually. These are given to us from a Buddhist monestary so they come from different sources. I don't think it is due to pests because ours our separate but are all doing the same thing. What is happening? Is there a way I can send you photos?
thank you Rick for all your great information. I'm a newbie and wondering why wouldn't you cut the spike to help reserve energy for growing roots rather than bloom? If no roots do you ever recommend soaking or just foliage spray?
Hey Rick, I hear you about the wood. I had the same problem with Cholla wood! It was awful! What is the technical name of the metal mesh you have mounted to the wall and your Phals are hanging on?
Rafeal, they are called stock panels......for cattle and horse, they sell them at a place called TSC....tractor supply co.........any co-op, feed store, or livestock supplier will have them.......this one is 8' long x 50" wide.......1/4" welded wire, makes great wall rack...$15 ea......very cheap
Thanks for sharing Rick, I had two Oncidiums mounted on wood before and had the same color on the wood. The roots of the plants stopped growing. How about the cork bark. Have you got the similar issue as well? I felt sad when I need to shear off the oncidiums from the rotten mount to a new mounts, I hope they would survive only time will tell. Good luck to yours Rick. Happy growing. Pauliter
thank you my friend......I dont have any on cork, but would love to try it...its mainly the red oak mounts.......i hate to remove them, but better with active grow season starting....vs fall....they wont survive like this..so they need to be removed..
Rick L. Orchids : at least the options haven't exhausted yet, wish you all the best lucks in moving them to a better media, please keep us posted on the process. Happy growing Rick.
Rick, Could you pls advice how much ppm of the fertilizer you gave to the rootless orchids. I have a couple of rootless orchids, really donot know how to fertilize them.
…...99% of root issues are PH related...…….the media breaks down, and the ph gets to low for them to absorb calcium as well as other nutrients...….but mainly calcium...….with out enough calcium the roots stop growing and the plants stall...….stop growing, and may start yellowing lower leaves....give rootless plants very low feed...…..give them 10-12 drops of calmag in a gallon of good water...….and add 10-12 drops of kelp/seaweed if you have it...…..those 2 items are the best things to give rootless orchids......it helps them get roots started again......
Hi Rick i don t know if you ve made an update about those 2 orchids but i think you answered me i was asking you about rots decreasing 10 minutes ago. I ll do as you said just cal mg and Sw. So how are they doing now ? Have you "saved" them? Sorry may be you updated it i try to get time to watch your videos. I neglected my plants because my son had a hip operation so like 2 months i tryed my best to keep my plants minimum hydrated with only water sometime because i wasn t home often. Thanks Rick have a blessed day my prayers are with you.
yes they are doing great...…….the left one never lost the spike, it bloomed great and also grew tons of new roots, the other was a little bit worse, but it now has a new spike, lots of roots, and is doing great.....I will show them in the next video....thanks for all the kind words......
.....the issue was ph related......removing the spike will only remove valuable nutrient reserves......will cause them to drop lower leaves......they store P & K in their spikes.......removing it can makes things worse........once the bad media was removed .....they were able to start absorbing calcium........they are both recovered and blooming again.......no lower leaf loss either
One thing that comes to mind that I never thought about because I do not mount, but do you see these orchids growing on these trees? I ask only about untreated wood. Eventually the plant will tell you whether they are happy or not.
with the exception of terrestrials, most orchids are epiphytic and grow on tees......the species of tree varies, but good point......they were happy at first, but that changed fast......
LOl I meant in reference to what type of mount you are using. I know they grow on trees....duh!! Sorry just didn't explain myself good. I just get excited when I think about the nutrients and such. Right now I am trying to figure out how much CAl Nitrate to use because it tells me tsp per plant not how much water. UGH
lol........sorry Stacey.......Cal nit needs to be used with other nutrients......I never use it alone.....I see other growers do that.......but that will definitely harm plants....its not a measurement........its a strength....In my mix the Ca is 10% or less......so if I feed 150ppm......my Ca is 15ppm or less.........hope that make sense.
Good morning Rick. I have so much problems with my phals, the don't recovered and they died .I tried mount, pots, baskets, different types of potting,, but I don't know what else to do. Take them inside the green house, inside the house, outside.I use the same supplies that you have and they don't look good. I noticed that you have some cedar chips. Do you soak those? They look to be soft, I have a lot of little pieces, left overs from my baskets and mounts. I use them, but they are not soft. Thank you Norma
.....Hello my dear friend.....Phals dont have bulbs or canes like other orchids....so they have no reserves other than whats in their leaves and spikes.......because of this... they need a constant steady supply of nutrients, tiny amounts... "often".. and calcium as well......they are hogs for it......dont cut the spikes unless they absorb them first.......and if you feed them often enough they will not absorb the spikes. if they get enough food they will stop dropping lower leaves and with lots of calcium they grow roots non stop.......let me know if I can help with anything...
Rick, does a trade for a bulbo for a piece of live-oak bark sound familiar? I swear I had this deal with someone over the winter. I needed bark for my ghosts and since they are slow growing and live forever, the tree chosen..well there are a few that are very good: old-growth mockernut Hickroy, and Callery pear have been used successfully. Ghosts are really picky about substrate. I'm told "juniper" also works for ghosts, but the stuff we have around here is flaky and probably not suitable. Anyway, these and cypress and some kind of orange-Osage Orange are also reportedly very rot resistant and ghosts will grow on them. Anyway, I can't remember who I had that deal with and the bulbo is ready to go with a great root system. It has been neglected but should spring back to blooming size within a year if cared for. Leaves are all nice and shiny. It's a pretty plant, I think. It's just that carpets and mounts don't mix.
Been waiting for an video. Why do you leave the phals in the basket without anything? Are you drying the roots? How long will you leave it like this? I was thinking the same thing, it's acid in the red oak.
.......they will do fine bare root, they dont need any media, .....plus I want to see the progress of root growth........once they get going I can add some lava rock, or something........thank you
Ok Mr Rick! 😜 I am asking your theory about something. On the dendrobium canes, why do you think the ridges going around the cane are yellow? Mine has this as well and I am wondering if it is hereditary or nutrient deficiency? Just not sure. I also notice on mine sometimes the yellow turns black so I am just concerned or should I be? I am still trying to reach as well
....Stacey.......would have to see what your talking about, majority of color is genetics, but deficiencies can cause changes....you think it nutrient related?
Rick L. Orchids I am not sure. I just noticed on some of my canes that there is a yellowish ring around it and noticed it on yours as well. I will try to get a picture of it. It is so weird. I haven’t really thought too much about it, but now seeing yours and what has happened to it I am wondering if something is wrong with mine. Let me see if I can get a good pic of it when my phone charges up. I need a new one lol keeps dying with watching videos! But just can’t help myself lol
...lol....I had to go look.....I think I understand what your talking about.....yes yellow rings, where leaves were once attached, and some black patches on the canes.......in my case, those are the original canes that came with the orchids, I think its concentration of pigments as leaves die off, and as the canes reserves concentrate........natural process maybe.......i dont see any soft spots or signs of rot.....just color changes....
Everything I've read says that orchids shouldn't be dark green like those phals. They are supposed to be between grass green and yellow. How do you feel about that? If that's the cast the lighter leaves are the color they should be ??????
I like your thinking, never hurts to look at it from a different perspective......the fading is very common symptom with N deficiency......if they were cattleya's I would agree 100%.....that they are too dark........but for phals thats normal, especially inside under HID lighting........some of my phals are dark, and others very light green......many in between......but great point.
Hello Rick😊 I’m new to your channel I was just wondering about Phal orchid leaves. Sometimes they don’t lay wide and flat they sort of fold up in the middle like they fold in half what causes this? I like the leaves flat and normal like they usually are but I cannot understand why it happens. My thought is maybe not enough sun. I live in Canada and we have a lot more overcast days here.
…….a great question...….I have a few that do the same thing......not all of them, just a few...….I don't believe its genetic .....when I got them a year ago.....they had more normal, floppy leaves. Now they are very upright.....with folded, or funnel shape as well.....I think its more hydration/nutrition related
.......if I had a rootless Phal.......dropping it in a glass or a bowl with some calmag and kelp/seaweed would help it alot......you can leave it for a few weeks if needed till you see root tips again.......then just repot in your choice of media.....
thats a great question....they all in my opinion do better mounted.....like in nature.......but its more of a space issue I think......some will take less space when mounted vs in a pot....if a plant has a rambling growth I may mount it......if they stay upright and less branching out......I will pot more often.
Looks like it's time to banish that red oak from the grow room! Changing all the red oak mounts now at the start of the growing season may give everything the best chance to get on. Oak leaves are used to lower ph in fish keeping. Perhaps you've just learned a big thing : )
Have three on oak wil keep my eye on them, do you have any experience with pseudo acacia (Robinia) it has the most beautiful structure and the orchids looks great on it Thanks in advance ;-)
I’ve got a few Phals that we’re doing great, in bloom for few months then seemed to collapse. Leaves all went droopy and roots died. Can’t figure out why this happens, treated the same as my others plants without any problems.
leca or hydroton is a great product, but it has a bad habit of holding onto nutrients......needs flushing regularly to keep salt build up from starting.......biggest issue with clay bead medias.....great stuff, just needs flushing alot...
@@rickl.orchids so does lava rock act similar to Leca? My sister swears by Leca and I started using more of it but still adding some sphagnum, charcoal & wood chips, I just have been leery about switching over 100 percent. You seem to be using a lot of Lava rock now which I have bought, is that working well with your Phals currently?
Rick me again l live in the Caribbean we have two seasons wet and dry my phals are outdoors under shade net and a few of them have wilted they have good roots as far as l can tell they are properly hydrated and fertilized can you tell me what could have gone wrong l am really at a loss my phal leaves are usually upright firm and beautiful to look at presently they all look dull and a bit lifeless any suggestions will be appreciated
1st...what are they planted in.?.....start there....if the media is broken down.....repot.....2nd.....what are they getting fed.....do they get Calcium in the mix, check the label.....let me know......happy to help.
They are in clay pots with rocks broken pieces of clay and charcoal fertilizer is msu formula one teaspoon per gal on a weekly basis l use tap water because that is what is available hope this information give you some insight
........yes very much...your media sounds fine.... and Im just going off what info you have given.....if they aren't getting rain....flush the plants very well with fresh water, and you need you check the ppm of your tap water.......it may be to high in sodium, etc......also cut back your nutrients to 1/4 tsp per gallon......for strong plants in perfect health and vigorous roots....1tsp may be ok, even then high in my opinion......if the MSU mix is for tap water, it still needs some calcium added, as well as magnesium...again my opinion....my guess is the tap is to high in alkalinity and ppm's.....have you checked it?.........flush them with as pure as water as you can......mix your nutrients in a weaker strength.....and add a calcium supplement if you can.....
Good enough for me red Oak is not an option now. I don't think I have ever heard of this problem before but I've only been growing orchids for about five years. Still it's a small sacrifice and your red oak problems seem to be 100%
this is so interesting, I didnt think that the wood would be so important. Take care Rick L.
........it was a learning experience!
Good morning, Rick L.
Answer. Yes, this lesson helps and just before I'm about to start shopping for wood to mount orchids for the first time.
Your tour and comments are worth more than you might think. The "Halo Effect" you pointed out shows up well along with internal veining pattern on the leaves, so your explanation while exhibiting the magnesium deficiency link was very clear. Just keep sharing what you see with your orchids because it draws people like me in to focus on what you are finding. Your videoes give me the feeling of being back in a college lecture hall with the most competent professor who is able to make everyone feel at ease and comfortable with the content being taught. Honestly, your videos are so much like a college course... ONLY EXPONENTIALLY BETTER, in my humble opinion. And, your wooden heart-of-pine mount is an 'eye-tooth envy' to this old kritter. Thank you so much from Columbus. Date: April 21, 2018
your words just warm my heart, and bring me such big smiles......thank you so much
Wow Rick that purple den is beautiful, everything looks super healthy.....I repoted an orchid today and use one of your clip ideas.......you should patent them...lol
thanks Debra, that Den is really trying hard......those clips are just to easy and really help anchor a plant........wonderful.....you too kind.
Please do a video of the removal, rick, or the separation of the roots from the wood, if you can? I would love to watch that! Thanks Rick
Sorry about your orchids. Please keep us in touch with the progress on these. Great eye on narrowing down the culprit. Phals are fighters! Great video, thank you for sharing.
Your thinking as you tracked down the apparent cause. It is so good to hear your voice again. I hope all is going well with you. I will be away for a while as I have a shoulder replacement-long story.
.........Oh no Karen, sorry to hear......well, if its any help........I love mine, .wish I had both replaced......100% movement, and stronger than the original........I can do things with this one I couldn't with the real one....never had any PT after the surgery either.....I wish you luck, ...prayers and good thoughts for you and the docs...please let me know when your up and about........Hugs ...Rick
Good luck with your Phals! Looks like Red Oak breaks down pretty fast with watering. Thanks for your input!
I shared this on Facebook to someone asking about their P. schilleriana. This video made so much sence and changed how I grow several species when I saw it last year. You are still teaching and making a difference. Thank you.
Very informative video. It's always good to learn something new. I struggle with the phals. I did learn that mine do not do well in inert media. I have lost more rescues. They just love the spaghmum moss. I have experimented with full and partial water culture too. I saved about 5 by wrapping the roots in moss, and they have beautiful new roots/growing tips. I am in central Florida, so I know that has something to do with it. We're mid 80s and up with oppressive humidity. Everything else loves it, in fact my vandas bloomed throughout the winter. I know that you will save those phals. Thanks for sharing. You have helped me to understand my plants and how they grow. Happy growing!
Wow - very healthy looking plants. You definitely have a great green thumb(s)! Your grow space is ideal for orchid growing! Thank you for all your valuable time teaching us the ins & outs of orchid care! Bless you!!!
I agree with an earlier comment. Cut the spikes, and seal with cinnamon (only Phalaenopsis). The following is a recommendAtion for Phalaenopsis in the baskets only. Try removing only the sponge part of the roots, and leave the center root. Soak them first. It pulls right off. Reason being, it will reduce poss bacterial issues, yet still hydrate until new healthy roots grow. It also helps to anchor them which I feel is better for root regeneration. ( Re anchorage: I like your river rock & clay pot methodology; it saved a number of my orchids). It is NOT NECESSARY to do this on all roots, & can be done over time as you determine die off. Other references about the root 💡 on Danielle's Orchid Ranch & Jacklyn ( Canada ). Just a few tricks that worked for me.
.....love those channels, and great info......the roots are still hydrating, and firm, the soft ones I have removed, they just dont have any active growth tips........the spikes i am thinking about......thank you for the info..
Hi Rick I really like the way you prepare the pots and repot the orchids
thank you Mary.....
its good that you found the problem.. you will have a lot of repotting to do... or remounting on better wood that is not killing the plants... dunking them in water to help the roots to move...carefully Rick.. and gently prying good luck.. and never give up on them.... they are trying to do their part but in time they will come back.. and remember its a learning curve for everyone...we are not perfect.. looking forward to seeing what you are doing...
Very good advice. I make my own mounts from cedarwood and they do great. Sometimes people give me pieces of driftwood, and I notice that orchids don't attach good on it, cedarwood Oh boy! they go crazy. Thank you again for your advice.
…….I learned that the hard way...…...cedar seems to work with them all......
Hi Rick, I enjoy your in depth explanations of specific issues with your plants! I listened to a video of yours about a week ago where you were using the cedar cubes in your pots and how the orchids seemed to love the cedar. Well, I decided to get some more cedar. All they had a Lowes was the shredded cedar, but I decided to use it on the top of some of my orchids, and low and behold, the ochids responded immediately. The leaves were greener and clearly happier. I have several of my plants in cedar boxes, same thing, the roots clung to the sides and loved being next to the cedar. Then I recalled a phal I had on a mount several months ago, that didn't do well. The roots were growing away from the wood and did not want to attach to the wood. Might have been red oak? Anyway, I did remove the phal from the mount and put it in a pot. It is doing fine and growing. But I did want to mention another thing regarding the cedar medium. I did have some knots or noseums or something flying around a few weeks ago, and now with the addition of the shredded cedar, they have all disappeared. I also agree with the terpenes theory as these compounds can be very strong. But the cedar in any form, whether it is shredded, chips, mount, or basket is a winner in all respects! Very interesting! BAD BAD RED OAK! LOL! So now I am using the shredded along with some cedar chips I got to add to many of my orchids as they are responding very well and the bug situation is a bonus! Thanks for all the detail. IMPORTANT STUFF! Thanks again, Rita
.....love hearing of hands on experiences.......wonderful stuff Rita.......they love Cedar......I also use cypress in baskets, with some of them.......my Maxilaria tenfolia are in cypress chips with lava rock........doing very well. Any wood that has good decay resistance........like cedar, cypress, heart pine, they thrive on........thanks for all your great questions and kind words........have a wonderful thanksgiving....Rick
My last house was in an oak grove..nothing would grow under them, except more oaks and Rhododendron.....too much tanic acid in the leaves...and loads of bugs
......your so right.....their drip zone is very acidic........I learned a good lesson with red oak.....
Wow the burgundy black Dendrobium was a dumpster plant? It is gorgeous. Red oak grows in acidic soil - the leaves and wood are acidic too. Thank goodness you deduced this.
.....thanks Plant Maven, I agree.......but never knew it would go bad so fast, lesson learned
Thanks for sharing your stories....it's so very helpful to newbies like me...
Wow Rick. I hate to hear that about the mounts. I think you are right though, about taking them off the red oak. They probably wont do any good if left on. I have taken some plants off mounts. If you soak them real good you can slide a thin knife under them. Probably will set them back some but you do such good things with the plants, they will pop back. Thanks for showing us the problem. It will teach us. I wouldn't have thought red oak would do that, but I'm glad you figured it out now before you lost the plants. Best of luck and thanks again for your info.
Wow, great observation about red oak... Amazing observation. Thank you so much! xxx
Hi Rick, thank you. I can't find the alaska calcium, but I do have Cal-Mag, same as yours. I also want to wish you and your family a very special THANKSGIVING, we have to be very thankful, God bless.
Good detective work, Rick! Thanks for sharing with all of us and sorry that this happened. But we all can learn from each other's mistakes. Hopefully you caught this early enough to save them! We are all rooting for you! Oops that"s a bad pun! lol!
heh heh heh..........i thought it was perfect......lol
You always do such a good video you are in my prayers and so is your wife I can’t imagine having so much ran a couple as sweet as you. I hurt my back this last weekend pulling in my big plant because of the freeze but this morning I got up and I realized I had to water my orchids so I put them in the kitchen sink and did what you said about fertilizing and let him stand in water but I don’t know how long to leave them so I left them until the roots were dark and greenWhat a mess in the kitchen. I would love to get a greenhouse one day maybe. I don’t know if years are in the greenhouse I know some other people have their plants in green houses which I listen to all of the ones on plants I love plants God bless you
I love your dark purple Den.. but your collections are awesome with nice healthy roots..
Thank you so much for sharing that with us, I’m sure because of this video it will save orchids!
Paula from Mexico. Thank you. We have a hope, promise that we will be able to live forever on a paradise earth. Rev. 21:3,4
Thank you for sharing such a serious issue in a brilliant educative way.
I heard that lime stones helps raising the pH, and thus, boosts bloomings of your orchids. I am not sure how true this is but will surely give it a go one day!
.....close.....the limestone provides Calcium and some trace magnesium....they in turn allow the plant too grow better,......its like the Garden Lime I recommend using.....
@@rickl.orchids Yep will surely try it. Thank you!
So oak is a no no!! I have been thinking about mounting some of my minis!! Very good info
rick hello again my friend , with my phals i tried a large pot with no holes in and large bark chips for medium , i water about once every 3 weeks and fertilisers added , this year we had 2 shoots about 1 mt in length and very large flowers , in the wild they hanker onto a tree and send roots into a crevice which contain tree sap but the other roots are just air roots as you know so this phal has been in the same media for about 2 years now so fingers crossed , keep well mate david
Thanks David.....I love all the different methods everyone grows with.......great ideas all around
Process of elimination - common denominator found! Good luck with the rescues (this is the bit where you remember just what tough little cookies these orchids are and as long as there are some roots that can still absorb, they'll bounce back). I'll be keeping a close eye on some of my mounts - although it's not 'Red Oak', I do have quite a few mounts where I used English Oak collected from fallen trees in the forest. I do have one Dendrobium harveyanum that doesn't seem to like it's mount - maybe a change of wood? or even in a pot for a while to give the roots a chance to recover.
oaks contain tannin (a polyphenol), which is used for tanning hide into leather. strangely enough cork bark, which is harvested from the cork oak, does not seem to have any adverse effects.
thanks Roger......i should have known better, and saw it happening, but didnt link it all together till yesterday.........just a few mounts effected....but still small setback for those........better now than in the fall......
thanks Herbert.......cork is crazy expensive here, ...cypress, heart pine, cedar......I can get for free...
Hi Rick! I know you can make it to get just fine 👍 can't wait to see that happen!!💖your video!
Thanks Ashley.....
Oh my gosh, that stinks, Rick. I hate learning the hard way. It looks like you have your work cut out for you. On the bright side (for us), you can make videos treating or removing the orchids. Hopefully the plants will recover.
Thank you for sharing your problem phals and your thinking no
Rick, your videos on growing have helped me figure out so much! I started adding chunks of wood to the rainwater I use, and not a week later my rhynchostylis branched 2 new roots after being dormant for 3 months, my oncidiums put out 3 new growths and roots, and my cattleya cutting put out 4 new roots! when i get more settled i can begin fertilizing to get some new shoots.
As far as your mounts and fungal issues go, did you oven bake them to sterilize the wood before using them as mounts? I would recommend physan20 to kill off the fungus thats already taken hold. It's an algicide, fungicide, bactericide, and virucide. I bet if you start treating the wood that's already affected, you won't have to rip apart any of your beautiful mounts.
....wonderful feedback, the wood helps drop the ph and the plants feed better.....Good question, but no....I didnt bake them.......its only the red oak mounts that are having this issue, the rest are doing great.....I did use several types of Fungicides....works for while, but the decay keeps coming back.......i chose wrong wood type.......they will bounce back, and its only a few.....thank you
i love that trashcan dendrobium, great color..:) i start to think that you enjoy roots and new growts even more then flowers..:D
its gonna be a job but i think that you need to remount all the red oak plants..
.......roots and new growths I never tire of......lol...........your right, I hate to remove them, but it needs to be done, they will respond quickly I think.........thank you
Wow! That was interesting. Who would have thought. Very observant of you. My husband told me childhood stories playing in the forests in Europe. The oak forests were scarier to be in. Only a few leafy plants would grow, not many, and I guess they are quite susceptible to mold/fungus, mushrooms that animals would eat but children were told not to touch. Back then lot's of cases of mushroom poisoning in children, and it was a very bad way to go. The acacia and other forests were happy with more plants and flowers to collect, as they could earn some money selling these flower bouquets at train stations. Don't want to write a novel here ha!ha!, but thought you wouldn't mind if I shared this story. It could be the mold/fungus killing the roots, or that red oak has those certain properties that disallow certain or most plants to survive around them, except for that variety that my husband recalls as a child. In any case, hope you are able to save the orchids, even with a setback as growing season is upon you. Stay well my friend and thanks for this fascinating subject.
wonderful story Rose.......thank you for the kind words.
Hi Rick, I'm not a very experienced grower, but have heard that if an orchid is sick, it helps to cut the spike to allow all of it's energy to go to the root area instead. I'm sure it will recover in time. You have a green thumb!
Hi Rick. Perhaps red oak have natural defenses from climbers such ivy and epiphyte plants. As for my phals I’ve experienced that if they’re weak and a drastic media changed is made, ie moss to leca - the shock of changing seems to set them back too much and growth afterwards progresses very slowly. I’m trying to keep phals that were in spent moss, to replace the moss with moss and an addition of a little bark, and let them strengthen before going to leca. I have phals that were strong and converted to leca do really great in leca and because I can control the dry wet cycle easily as well as controlling nutrients, they’re sights to behold. My collection is small so I can keep an eye on each individual plant. But perhaps the learning experience will be limited. But then I can keep control (?) of issues such as bugs and viruses and fugal infections without it running rampant. And being in a home environment I think is might be best, though every time I go to an orchid show, small becomes a smaller word 😬. Anyways, food for thought. Thanks again for sharing yours also. Always a learning experience from you.
Thomas.....you hit on such a important growing point..."Control"......with control....things dont go south as fast.......your doing exactly what growers should do......change slowly and watch the plants for signs of growth.........thank you
Hey Rick,
I recently watched a video from Orchid Whisperer where she had used sphagnum moss to help encourage her phals to initiate new roots. Maybe it might work for that one you are having a bad time with...I have used this method a few times...and it helped a few of my stubborn phals...You could contact her for more details...just a thought... Thanks again for all your videos and helpful ideas.☺ Good luck with your phal..Stay healthy my friend...
Joe
thank you Joe......Amy has a great show, and I had thought about doing that......but I can keep them hydrated easily, and I want to watch the root growth closely....
Hi Rick - hope your “red oaks” mounts are doing better - note the below due to breakdown of red oak, and it’s different tube structure.
I don’t know if it will help but oaks in general are used for boatbuilding and for their high tannins used in tanning hides, i.e., “oak tanned leather” all for thousands of years; however; red oak is different bird. See below a statement I pulled from two boat building websites. It sounds like red oak may not have as high tannins as white but also the tube structure of red oak may be sucking up a lot of the moisture too allowing it to break down faster, becoming more acid. Even though red oak is lower in tannin than say white oak or other oaks, it may produce enough to react with certain chemicals - fertilizers.
I hope the oak info below helps to give you some info. Of course, we use cedar, cypress and other tropical hardwoods for our decks, home siding, etc because the natural resins resist decay and insects for a longer time, thus those mounts should last for years. There is a youtube channel on boat building - “Tips from a ship wright ” that has a good video that shows the difference in how the red oak vs white oak draws up moisture. He talks about issues with salt water and fresh. m.th-cam.com/video/L6t2AZubF8U/w-d-xo.html I wonder if you could seal (penetrating or topical) or even white non toxic matt finish glue) those mounts in such a way as to not affect the plants and to stop the penetration of moisture and any chemical reactions with the tannins.
“Red Oak is not suitable for lumber used in boatbuildingSadly, for boatbuilders this attractive and otherwise useful lumber has a defect that makes it unsuitable for boatbuilding. It has an open structure and the small open capillary tubes can suck in moisture and draw it up several inches into the wood. This open structure make it readily subject to moisture infiltration. Once wet it is hard to dry the lumber and this makes it a victim of rapid decay. Although it has tannin, being wet for long periods make it a victim of fungus and bacterial attack. This tendency to rot is diminished when the wood is pressure treated. It readily absorbs the treatment because of its open structure. Pressure treated red oak has been used as fence posts and railroad ties and as construction lumber. It is sometimes possible to see the fairly large pores of the wood. Red Oak is not very dimensionally stable and will shrink quite a lot. Because it reacts with iron, screws and other fasteners often stain the wood. Unlike red oak, white oak produces blockages in the vascular capillaries of the xylem called tyloses. These occur mostly in the heartwood. These effectively limit water flow and close the tubes. This prevents capillary action and greatly reduces moisture penetration and attack by mould and other organisms. This ability to restrict moisture entry makes the wood less susceptible to decay. White oak sapwood is not as moisture resistant as heartwood because it has not developed the blocking tyloses. White Oak is rated as durable and is more resistant to decay than red oak. ..... If you place a piece of oak endgrain down in a glass of water or better alcohol, the red oak will allow the liquid to rise very quickly up the wood, White oak will get the end wet but the liquid will not be sucked up very high or very quickly.”
wonderful information Rose......thank you.....I think the cell structure is Key as to why it breaks down......also holds salts more too......
I would cut the spikes from the 2 struggling Phals, so they can dedicate that energy towards roots and leaves.
I'm off to do some research on wood now. I've got some sycamore and dogwood I was thinking of using as mounts. Now I'm not so sure...
........Im thinking the same, but want to see if they start roots in few days.......Sycamore is a soft wood, may decay to fast........dogwood, Im not sure.......need to see if they give off any chemicals...
Rick L. Orchids I was afraid of sycamore being to soft! It's so beautiful, I was hoping I could use it for a latoria type dendrobium. I was planning on looking it up but thanks to you I don't have to. 😀 The dogwood has some really cool knots in it. I just looked it up and it's a very dense hardwood, but I can't find anything about whether they leach chemicals.
your orchid is beautiful
Maybe the rainwater and teabag would encourage the phals to grow new roots Ricky, as well as help rehydration, unless the red oak has poisoned it, but maybe worth a try? A lot of people, me included, have success growing new roots on phals in rain water culture, although it may take a month or more from my own experience I recommend it as worth a try if your roots have died, and you want to save the phal.😊 Sounds like oak is best avoided from your experience for mounts, interested to see how Rogers do on English oak, but doesn’t sound favourable.😞
thanks Chris......after a few days to think about this, and look a few things up.......red oak has a long open cell structure.....it soaks up the water and nutrients and holds them......when the mount dries out the salts concentrate and they burn the roots off.......White oak, has a short, cell structure,....moisture can barely penetrate the wood due to that......... its preferred and used in boat building, because of its cell structure......English oak has a twisted grain......hopefully it will not absorb as much water for Roger.........the tea soak is a good idea, but they need some Ca to start roots..........
That’s interesting Ricky but I managed to grow new roots just in rainwater before I first heard your video on Cal Mag so there is hope😊
I use cork bark for all my mounts...occasionally I'll have an issue. I have noticed some orchids react differently of what you mount or plant them on. I have went to media-less planting and the difference is very evident on the orchids...some take off other not so much with new roots....but I should not be quick to judge because until now I've had very few sunny days and cold for April so I will reserve judgement....have not been able to get stone or lava rock yet....I suspect any day now it will become available...due to miserable weather here I assume! Warming up for few days and sunny so plants should take off in the root dept! This was a good video concentrating on an often overlooked issue!
thanks David......I agree, and thankfully, the learning curve with orchids is large.......may I ask were you get your cork bark at?........that stuff is expensive around here......$15-$20 for 6x6 piece.....
Pangea reptile supply....sells it in 10 lb lots round, flat, tell them for orchids...very prompt on delivery...think you'll be happy you found them!
thank you very much....
Those Phals will be fine. Get all those dead roots off ASAP! Those spikes need to go too, they don't need to be giving energy to a non essential part of the plant when they need to be growing roots. They still have plenty of leaves which is always something. The beauty of phals is that they are amazing at bouncing back, so as long as there is green, there is always hope! I have had plenty of rootless phals bounce back. Just provide some light and constant moisture around the base. I usually just sit them on top of some bark (highly recommend the seramis orchid mix) and then every day I mist around. Before you know it new roots will start appearing. You can do it Rick!!! If you need some extra advice just ask, I have dealt with so many rootless phals .
wonderful advice LouLou.........they recycle/ re-absorb their spikes for the P & K, so I dont want to rob them of nutrients at this time unless no other choice. I dont want them to dip into their reserves anymore either, so I need to give them some nutrients......just trace amounts.........I want them to wet / dry cycle a lot for the next week or so.....help absorb nutrients faster.......thank you very much, I will reach out if needed.......very kind.
Mesquite the same situation I bet... Texas...
Thanks for your video l always enjoy them but l have one request can l please see more of your blooms you always focus on your plants and roots but l so love to see lots of blooms also hope you don't mind hope you correct your situation soon all the best
no worries.......blooms coming, but not much blooming at moment.....
could we pleased see the blooms in slow motion even the white one love your plant . thank you for sharing with us
thank you for another vid. ☺🐶
I enjoyed your video 💕❤️💞💋😘
Love the color of MS TRASHBIN...
me too..........
Appreciate the information that you provided in this video. I have issues with phals as well so everything that you mentioned is helpful to me. I am slowly learning of the importance of nutrients for the growth habits of orchids. Do you think there is something inherent in the red oak that is causing the issues? I wonder if something in the aging process is troublesome.
I have found that one of my miniatures is growing like crazy now - I mounted it on a piece of aged pine just before the growing season. I try to use aged driftwood and cypress for most of my mountings. I hope you will continue with this topic and how your plants respond to changing the mounting material. Very helpful for everyone. (One final comment - why didn't you remove the spikes on the ailing phals? Seems that would help with the plant's health.) Good video. Keep 'em coming.
great questions Pat.......i will remove the spikes if they need it.......the spikes are for recycling P & K , important for the plants reserves......No doubt the red oak contains to much acid and other enzymes that are prohibiting root growth, I prefer cypress, cedar and heart pine.........lesson learned
I hope you can save those orchids
I just mounted a rescue Phal that has beautiful huge white blooms. I got the wood from an orchid grower. I don’t know what kind of wood it is. The roots were squishy and horrible on this Phal. I cut off the dead parts. A day later the leaves are limp and droopy. I soaked it in a light solution of cal mag. But no improvement. Any suggestions or hope for me? Your videos have awakened a love for orchids in me thanks so much Rick.
.......your doing about all you can do....the calmag would really help at this time....soaking the entire plant is best,...... they absorb thru the leaves better than the roots...if its not hydrating......it just may be not able to anymore.....some of the phals we get, have been so abused in the stores and thru shipping... that there's not much you can do.........I soak a limp plant for hours.....even over night.....in a warm spot is better than a cool one......Phals are beautiful and love to bloom..a .very misunderstood orchid I think.......a plant that doesn't respond.....toss it..... it may have viral or other issues. ...........not worth endangering your collection for.......good luck Pamela..
Rick L. Orchids thank you so much
It's a good thing that you discovered what the problem is before the mounted orchids deteriorated any further. It's going to be tough to remount them though. I wonder if they would experience the same issues if they were growing on a live red oak tree? How often are you foliar feeding them? Every day?
yes to the foliar feed.........thats a good question, ... I found in several books where orchids grow on oak trees.......live vs dead would be a big difference though, Andrew above found the answer I believe...........Thanks Caroline..
It's a shame that you aren't going to be able to use the red oak as a mount because I think the wood is really nice. If I lived in a warmer climate, I would try mounting one on a white oak...I think that would be so cool! A quick question about the foliar feed...what level of the cal/mag are you using? 10 ppm? Around the same for the epsom salt? I want to try a foliar feed on my rescue dendrobium but I don't want to make the dosage too high. :)
Love your videos. Can someone tell me how he is doing????? I haven’t heard anything for awhile.
Hey dear a couple months back he subscribed to my channel and left a couple messages. I jumped for joy because he subscribed to me. I do hear from him and Jan once in a while. I usually let folks know on my channel when I hear from him. 😁
Good video! Gave me food for thought about some of my orchids that aren't attaching to their mounts, and the wood is unknown to me
Hi Rick! I once heard that hardwoods have natural anti-bacterial properties and that is why they make such great chopping blocks and cooking utensils....could it be that the red oak kills off some microorganisms which the orchids live in symbiotic harmony with, perhaps even depend upon? Bless you, buddy! Cara Coomer
Cara.....yes, something very similar to that.....Andrew orchids....above, I believe found the issue.........have a great weekend my friend.
I have to tell you that your black wood and mold on the mounts made a bell go off in my head. I have a small Cattleya that I put in a purchased wooded basket back in 2016.(typical teak style orchid basket). It has continued to not do well and not bloom. I've previously noticed the black wood and a powdery soot on the wood. I "cleaned" it but it came right back. Kinda just been ignoring it for now with uncertainty. Then after watching your video, I looked again and it not only has the black wood but also the white mold on the bottom of the basket. Are even baskets are not sacred!!
I had a problem with red oak as well and I'm curious as to weather or not you remounted or potted your oak stressed orchids and what they look like now. It's so seldom I see a sick plant in your collection I kinda wanted to follow the change.
......Allen, I had several mounts, as well as Phals in baskets, etc.........i can honestly say....every single plant has made a complete turn around.....and are growing better than expected.......seems as soon as I take them off and give them a good rinse.......i see new root growth with in days........was a "huge " mistake I learned from....be happy to do an update...
Hmmm Red Oak issues, who'da thunk it? I hope you can save the orchids!
I am using bark...i have repotted all my orchids as soon as i buy them because i worry about rotten roots. I have one in water culture..about an inch of water in the Brandy sniffer and it's doing ok keeping is spikes and growing a new leaf...BIG QUESTION...HOW OFTEN CAN I FEED THEM.. THE ONES IN THE BARK. I flash in dehumidifier water and then soak for about 10 minutes in weak fertilizer...less than one fourth the dose...
I also have a few river rocks in bottom of pit to cover hole and have been adding Ric8ks to the top of the clay pots top keep them from falling over because they ate top heavy due to blooms... all phals...all new since November...
…...I feed with every water...…mine never get plain water. ...Now,... you can only water as often as the media dries out.....airflow is key to them drying out...….the more airflow the faster they dry back...….
Looks like the phal bug is going around..trying to save one myself
.........sorry Heather, ......make sure they are getting some calcium......then look to the media.....good luck with yours..
its not in any media as of now..i only have one root..i dont have calcium either..not sure if thats even anything i can get locally...i did message you for your thoughts on it..
I ordered Calcium from Amazon
heather jarrell You can always try SWC to kick start root growth. I always done a couple of hours a day soaking then let it sit dry. The roots that came out that way had a much easier time adapting to the bark medium when I moved it back. Then you can start feeding it again.
Loulou's Corner what's swc?
Rick, did you mount the orchids or purchase them already mounted? Where did you purchase them? Finally, how do you water mounted orchids? Thanks.
I mounted them..........they were small baby orchids from Lowes mainly......the wood is from a friend of mine that hunts a lot.....he brings me the pieces as he finds them.....I soak them when they are inside........outside they get rained on and sprayed by me....
Rick - I desperately need your help. I and my neighbor have about 30 orchids that are mostly Phals. We have them planted in glass planters with two holes drilled in them and LECA. We use distilled water, good food, CalMag and a pH of 5.5 - 6.5. They are dying one after the other and we've lost nearly half already. We replant from bark/moss to LECA as soon as we get them and usually the roots are in good shape. But after not much time, the roots are turning yellow then brown and mushy until they're all dead. We water them about once a week. The roots don't sit in water. The rot often then goes to the stem. Temperature is about 70 and humidity 60-70. This happens to every one of them eventually. These are given to us from a Buddhist monestary so they come from different sources. I don't think it is due to pests because ours our separate but are all doing the same thing. What is happening? Is there a way I can send you photos?
......curious myself.......please...rpljr0202@bellsouth.net
Guess the thing to do is to put these orchids on red oak on different wood. Life is changes. You’ll have success
thank you Rick for all your great information. I'm a newbie and wondering why wouldn't you cut the spike to help reserve energy for growing roots rather than bloom? If no roots do you ever recommend soaking or just foliage spray?
Have you ever done any research on Spray-N-Grow. Micronutrients spray for plants not sure if it works on orchids.
no, ...no experience with it.....Micro's are used in such tiny amounts....will have to check it out.......thanks
Hey Rick, I hear you about the wood. I had the same problem with Cholla wood! It was awful! What is the technical name of the metal mesh you have mounted to the wall and your Phals are hanging on?
Rafeal, they are called stock panels......for cattle and horse, they sell them at a place called TSC....tractor supply co.........any co-op, feed store, or livestock supplier will have them.......this one is 8' long x 50" wide.......1/4" welded wire, makes great wall rack...$15 ea......very cheap
Could the dark colour on the back of your mounts be caused by insufficient air circulation in those areas?
......good question...but I keep very strong fans running 24hrs in there.....I believe it was a tanic acid issue....leaching from the wood
Thanks for sharing Rick, I had two Oncidiums mounted on wood before and had the same color on the wood. The roots of the plants stopped growing. How about the cork bark. Have you got the similar issue as well? I felt sad when I need to shear off the oncidiums from the rotten mount to a new mounts, I hope they would survive only time will tell. Good luck to yours Rick. Happy growing. Pauliter
thank you my friend......I dont have any on cork, but would love to try it...its mainly the red oak mounts.......i hate to remove them, but better with active grow season starting....vs fall....they wont survive like this..so they need to be removed..
Rick L. Orchids : at least the options haven't exhausted yet, wish you all the best lucks in moving them to a better media, please keep us posted on the process. Happy growing Rick.
Rick, Could you pls advice how much ppm of the fertilizer you gave to the rootless orchids. I have a couple of rootless orchids, really donot know how to fertilize them.
…...99% of root issues are PH related...…….the media breaks down, and the ph gets to low for them to absorb calcium as well as other nutrients...….but mainly calcium...….with out enough calcium the roots stop growing and the plants stall...….stop growing, and may start yellowing lower leaves....give rootless plants very low feed...…..give them 10-12 drops of calmag in a gallon of good water...….and add 10-12 drops of kelp/seaweed if you have it...…..those 2 items are the best things to give rootless orchids......it helps them get roots started again......
Hi Rick i don t know if you ve made an update about those 2 orchids but i think you answered me i was asking you about rots decreasing 10 minutes ago. I ll do as you said just cal mg and Sw.
So how are they doing now ? Have you "saved" them? Sorry may be you updated it i try to get time to watch your videos. I neglected my plants because my son had a hip operation so like 2 months i tryed my best to keep my plants minimum hydrated with only water sometime because i wasn t home often.
Thanks Rick have a blessed day my prayers are with you.
yes they are doing great...…….the left one never lost the spike, it bloomed great and also grew tons of new roots, the other was a little bit worse, but it now has a new spike, lots of roots, and is doing great.....I will show them in the next video....thanks for all the kind words......
@@rickl.orchids thank you !
I am curious why you didn't remove the flower spikes of the ailing Phals?
.....the issue was ph related......removing the spike will only remove valuable nutrient reserves......will cause them to drop lower leaves......they store P & K in their spikes.......removing it can makes things worse........once the bad media was removed .....they were able to start absorbing calcium........they are both recovered and blooming again.......no lower leaf loss either
One thing that comes to mind that I never thought about because I do not mount, but do you see these orchids growing on these trees? I ask only about untreated wood. Eventually the plant will tell you whether they are happy or not.
with the exception of terrestrials, most orchids are epiphytic and grow on tees......the species of tree varies, but good point......they were happy at first, but that changed fast......
LOl I meant in reference to what type of mount you are using. I know they grow on trees....duh!! Sorry just didn't explain myself good. I just get excited when I think about the nutrients and such. Right now I am trying to figure out how much CAl Nitrate to use because it tells me tsp per plant not how much water. UGH
lol........sorry Stacey.......Cal nit needs to be used with other nutrients......I never use it alone.....I see other growers do that.......but that will definitely harm plants....its not a measurement........its a strength....In my mix the Ca is 10% or less......so if I feed 150ppm......my Ca is 15ppm or less.........hope that make sense.
Good morning Rick. I have so much problems with my phals, the don't recovered and they died .I tried mount, pots, baskets, different types of potting,, but I don't know what else to do. Take them inside the green house, inside the house, outside.I use the same supplies that you have and they don't look good.
I noticed that you have some cedar chips. Do you soak those? They look to be soft, I have a lot of little pieces, left overs from my baskets and mounts. I use them, but they are not soft. Thank you Norma
.....Hello my dear friend.....Phals dont have bulbs or canes like other orchids....so they have no reserves other than whats in their leaves and spikes.......because of this... they need a constant steady supply of nutrients, tiny amounts... "often".. and calcium as well......they are hogs for it......dont cut the spikes unless they absorb them first.......and if you feed them often enough they will not absorb the spikes. if they get enough food they will stop dropping lower leaves and with lots of calcium they grow roots non stop.......let me know if I can help with anything...
Do you think something like Cedar would work better, given it's reputation for resisting rot?
Rick, does a trade for a bulbo for a piece of live-oak bark sound familiar? I swear I had this deal with someone over the winter. I needed bark for my ghosts and since they are slow growing and live forever, the tree chosen..well there are a few that are very good: old-growth mockernut Hickroy, and Callery pear have been used successfully. Ghosts are really picky about substrate. I'm told "juniper" also works for ghosts, but the stuff we have around here is flaky and probably not suitable. Anyway, these and cypress and some kind of orange-Osage Orange are also reportedly very rot resistant and ghosts will grow on them. Anyway, I can't remember who I had that deal with and the bulbo is ready to go with a great root system. It has been neglected but should spring back to blooming size within a year if cared for. Leaves are all nice and shiny. It's a pretty plant, I think. It's just that carpets and mounts don't mix.
.......great deal.....but wasnt me sorry......thank you for the info....we have Osage orange growing around here......tough stuff...
Thanks for the videos. What causes the occasional white spot on leaves?
on phals?......not sure.....fungus, nutrient water spot, insect bite...
Been waiting for an video. Why do you leave the phals in the basket without anything? Are you drying the roots? How long will you leave it like this? I was thinking the same thing, it's acid in the red oak.
.......they will do fine bare root, they dont need any media, .....plus I want to see the progress of root growth........once they get going I can add some lava rock, or something........thank you
Ok Mr Rick! 😜 I am asking your theory about something. On the dendrobium canes, why do you think the ridges going around the cane are yellow? Mine has this as well and I am wondering if it is hereditary or nutrient deficiency? Just not sure. I also notice on mine sometimes the yellow turns black so I am just concerned or should I be? I am still trying to reach as well
....Stacey.......would have to see what your talking about, majority of color is genetics, but deficiencies can cause changes....you think it nutrient related?
Rick L. Orchids I am not sure. I just noticed on some of my canes that there is a yellowish ring around it and noticed it on yours as well. I will try to get a picture of it. It is so weird. I haven’t really thought too much about it, but now seeing yours and what has happened to it I am wondering if something is wrong with mine. Let me see if I can get a good pic of it when my phone charges up. I need a new one lol keeps dying with watching videos! But just can’t help myself lol
...lol....I had to go look.....I think I understand what your talking about.....yes yellow rings, where leaves were once attached, and some black patches on the canes.......in my case, those are the original canes that came with the orchids, I think its concentration of pigments as leaves die off, and as the canes reserves concentrate........natural process maybe.......i dont see any soft spots or signs of rot.....just color changes....
Everything I've read says that orchids shouldn't be dark green like those phals. They are supposed to be between grass green and yellow. How do you feel about that? If that's the cast the lighter leaves are the color they should be ??????
I like your thinking, never hurts to look at it from a different perspective......the fading is very common symptom with N deficiency......if they were cattleya's I would agree 100%.....that they are too dark........but for phals thats normal, especially inside under HID lighting........some of my phals are dark, and others very light green......many in between......but great point.
Hello Rick😊 I’m new to your channel I was just wondering about Phal orchid leaves. Sometimes they don’t lay wide and flat they sort of fold up in the middle like they fold in half what causes this? I like the leaves flat and normal like they usually are but I cannot understand why it happens. My thought is maybe not enough sun. I live in Canada and we have a lot more overcast days here.
…….a great question...….I have a few that do the same thing......not all of them, just a few...….I don't believe its genetic .....when I got them a year ago.....they had more normal, floppy leaves. Now they are very upright.....with folded, or funnel shape as well.....I think its more hydration/nutrition related
Also what are the metal things on the side of the pots? I just heard you say Limestone
I just watched your video on making the clips. Thanks Rick.
I just started using limestone with a few plants.......just trying something different.....the clips are easy to make......I have video on them...
Hi Rick what are your Dens planted in?
most are lava rock or river rock......some mix..
I feel like growing in rocks help with drainage 😎👍
very much so.....and allows so much air to the roots.
what is the best way to save your Phals, with no media?
.......if I had a rootless Phal.......dropping it in a glass or a bowl with some calmag and kelp/seaweed would help it alot......you can leave it for a few weeks if needed till you see root tips again.......then just repot in your choice of media.....
How do you decide to mount or pot? Do some plants do better mounted? Your neighbor in GA.
thats a great question....they all in my opinion do better mounted.....like in nature.......but its more of a space issue I think......some will take less space when mounted vs in a pot....if a plant has a rambling growth I may mount it......if they stay upright and less branching out......I will pot more often.
Perhaps a weak tea soak?
good idea Susan......if they were not hydrating I agree......but they are.......this is a Ph issue gone bad......
Looks like it's time to banish that red oak from the grow room! Changing all the red oak mounts now at the start of the growing season may give everything the best chance to get on. Oak leaves are used to lower ph in fish keeping. Perhaps you've just learned a big thing : )
.......and still learning, you guys rock with your info........thank you
Good to know about oak's leaves to reduce ph on fish ponds, we used to struggled with that matter, thanks for the tip.
Hello rick...what medium do you used for your oncidiums?
…...all are in mixture of rock.....only one is mounted
Have three on oak wil keep my eye on them, do you have any experience with pseudo acacia (Robinia) it has the most beautiful structure and the orchids looks great on it
Thanks in advance ;-)
no experience with that one.......
One of my phals is about to begin touching the acacia bark so I'll keep you posted ( Roger just did two video's on bad wood and has the same problem )
What feed do you use please?
....I use Jacks 5-12-26 and 15-0-0 calcium nitrate
Hey Rick do another vid
I’ve got a few Phals that we’re doing great, in bloom for few months then seemed to collapse. Leaves all went droopy and roots died. Can’t figure out why this happens, treated the same as my others plants without any problems.
.....ph drop is the leading cause of dead phals........media fails and they stop growing
Rick L. Orchids hmm but most of mine are in leca or clay stones.
leca or hydroton is a great product, but it has a bad habit of holding onto nutrients......needs flushing regularly to keep salt build up from starting.......biggest issue with clay bead medias.....great stuff, just needs flushing alot...
@@rickl.orchids so does lava rock act similar to Leca? My sister swears by Leca and I started using more of it but still adding some sphagnum, charcoal & wood chips, I just have been leery about switching over 100 percent. You seem to be using a lot of Lava rock now which I have bought, is that working well with your Phals currently?
I’d like to know how the remounts are doung
they all are doing great.......all have grown new roots and are recovering well.....
Rick me again l live in the Caribbean we have two seasons wet and dry my phals are outdoors under shade net and a few of them have wilted they have good roots as far as l can tell they are properly hydrated and fertilized can you tell me what could have gone wrong l am really at a loss my phal leaves are usually upright firm and beautiful to look at presently they all look dull and a bit lifeless any suggestions will be appreciated
1st...what are they planted in.?.....start there....if the media is broken down.....repot.....2nd.....what are they getting fed.....do they get Calcium in the mix, check the label.....let me know......happy to help.
They are in clay pots with rocks broken pieces of clay and charcoal fertilizer is msu formula one teaspoon per gal on a weekly basis l use tap water because that is what is available hope this information give you some insight
........yes very much...your media sounds fine.... and Im just going off what info you have given.....if they aren't getting rain....flush the plants very well with fresh water, and you need you check the ppm of your tap water.......it may be to high in sodium, etc......also cut back your nutrients to 1/4 tsp per gallon......for strong plants in perfect health and vigorous roots....1tsp may be ok, even then high in my opinion......if the MSU mix is for tap water, it still needs some calcium added, as well as magnesium...again my opinion....my guess is the tap is to high in alkalinity and ppm's.....have you checked it?.........flush them with as pure as water as you can......mix your nutrients in a weaker strength.....and add a calcium supplement if you can.....
Thanks for your feedback l will give your recommendation a try
let me know how they are doing.......
Would you consider the tea treatment for the phal situation?
great question Wendy........if they were very hydrated i would.....but its more of a nutrient issue
Oh, that makes sense. I have one I've been doing the tea thing and it won't hydrate or grow roots. Maybe that's my issue. Thank you!
Good enough for me red Oak is not an option now. I don't think I have ever heard of this problem before but I've only been growing orchids for about five years. Still it's a small sacrifice and your red oak problems seem to be 100%
.....yes, the issue seems to be linked to the red oak........several plants......no worries.
👍💜