Awesome video! This looks exactly the same to my sprinkler valve. My question though is; I'm getting water leaking from the top round cover the same way yours did when the water was turned back on. I'm assuming mine isn't building pressure or isn't initiating the mechanism stopping the water? Would I still be needing to replace the full valve the same way you did?
As a plumber I can tell you this is just an OK job. The original install was not to code and neither is this. To name a couple of things: One dangerous thing is that he does not have a vacuum breaker on the boiler drain that he installed. If this is in a freeze zone then the installation should have unions and a downstream valve to blow the system out for winter. Unfortunately even a lot of plumbers don't install them correctly.
Hey Matthew, Since you are *the Man*, I have a question. All my irrigation valves are downhill from the circuits they feed, and there's no way of getting them high enough. I've thought about an RPZ, but the water district wants $1500 to install, and $8/mo. for the annual test. Are these anti-siphon valves subject to the same testing regime?
@@buixote If your system is already in service, then an RPZ should have been connected with the original installation. That's on the installer. Pressure Vacuum Breakers are only for installations where everything flows downhill from there. Your water district installs the backflow preventer? Do they own them and maintain them? Does the water district personnel test them or do they subcontract the work?
@@matthewk6731 Hey Matthew, Thanks for the reply. The existing system uses the standard vacuum-breaker-valves... one per circuit... the problem is, since it's all downhill from the circuits, they overflow and flood the box... that's why I was thinking the RPZ might be a better solution, but $$$... The water company installs them... I don't know if they sub-out the work, but they own & maintain the equipment. So one of those "solo vacuum breakers" would have the same problem as the ones in my irrigation boxes, from the way you describe it. I worry that the "correct way" would be to run a water main to the highest point on the property and then run all the irrigation from a box up there...
Thanks! And yes, I am in a freeze zone and having a boiler valve soldered into my downstream pipe is essential imo. Makes the blowout process much more straight forward. :)
Is a backflow preventer or a vacuum breaker needed if I have non siphon valves? Is a pressure regulator needed from my main water valve if the pressure is high? Thanks.
Nice work! Those PVB's tight up close to the house can be tough...I need to get one of those cloths that you showed in the video, sure beats my unfolded cardboard box! Lol
I have an old copper irrigation system. what's the best and easiest way to rise the heads to the current grass level? The current heads don't even seem to be solder on the pipe.
Yes you definitely can, I know a lot of people hate them but I have a number of them in my house and none have leaked or been any kid of issue. They are rated for in-wall use too which is the best you can asl for . So yes you can use them.
Awesome video! I turned my system on and I just noticed leaks around the valves around the vacuum breaker. I had it replaced in 2017 by a company. Any recommendations on the leaks (one is near one of the valves w/flat head screw and the other is near the bottom of the breaker)? Is it just tightening? Or is it removing the whole breaker and adding more sealant like you did this this video?
At my sprinkler backflow the long pipe going into the ground rusted and is now leaking. I'd like to take it on myself. Is it just as easy as applying a heat gun and removing it?
Probably violating local codes, as risk of backflow contaminating public water lines in the event of a pressure drop, can suck water from your lines, and if they catch you, far bigger fines than the cost of proper maintenance.
reusing certain parts, you should've saved some time and money and just cut the old valve out instead of carefully disassembling it. Also, you can no longer just "make the repair" yourself legally. Once repairs are made on these devices, an ASSE certified backflow preventer tester must come out and certify this device. Buying a "$60 device on Amazon to save money" can cost you much more than just paying the price for the good parts in the beginning. Handy Randy needs to stay the f&$k off the internet!!!
That is one of the better videos I've seen. One comment I'd make is about the pipe dope. There are 2 types that I have seen.1- the type that says it needs to set up for 24 hours before you turn the water on. & 2- the type that says you can pressurize it immediately. The latter is best. Also an old license plate works as a heat shield and is easily bent. Might as well go for the "Hat Trick" The 3rd comment is that while propane gas works fine, Mapp gas in the yellow canister burns hotter and takes less time.... & where allowed, I like a ball valve with a freeze plug so it doesn't crack over winter if it isn't drained right. www.freezeproofvalve.com
Props to someone who knows what he’s doing and can convey that in a video without loud death metal music.
Good work! It’s nice when you can find the same valve, makes everything so much easier.
Awesome video! This looks exactly the same to my sprinkler valve. My question though is; I'm getting water leaking from the top round cover the same way yours did when the water was turned back on. I'm assuming mine isn't building pressure or isn't initiating the mechanism stopping the water? Would I still be needing to replace the full valve the same way you did?
As a plumber I can tell you this is just an OK job. The original install was not to code and neither is this.
To name a couple of things: One dangerous thing is that he does not have a vacuum breaker on the boiler drain that he installed. If this is in a freeze zone then the installation should have unions and a downstream valve to blow the system out for winter.
Unfortunately even a lot of plumbers don't install them correctly.
Hey Matthew, Since you are *the Man*, I have a question. All my irrigation valves are downhill from the circuits they feed, and there's no way of getting them high enough. I've thought about an RPZ, but the water district wants $1500 to install, and $8/mo. for the annual test. Are these anti-siphon valves subject to the same testing regime?
@@buixote If your system is already in service, then an RPZ should have been connected with the original installation.
That's on the installer.
Pressure Vacuum Breakers are only for installations where everything flows downhill from there.
Your water district installs the backflow preventer? Do they own them and maintain them? Does the water district personnel test them or do they subcontract the work?
@@matthewk6731 Hey Matthew, Thanks for the reply. The existing system uses the standard vacuum-breaker-valves... one per circuit... the problem is, since it's all downhill from the circuits, they overflow and flood the box... that's why I was thinking the RPZ might be a better solution, but $$$... The water company installs them... I don't know if they sub-out the work, but they own & maintain the equipment. So one of those "solo vacuum breakers" would have the same problem as the ones in my irrigation boxes, from the way you describe it. I worry that the "correct way" would be to run a water main to the highest
point on the property and then run all the irrigation from a box up there...
Thanks! And yes, I am in a freeze zone and having a boiler valve soldered into my downstream pipe is essential imo. Makes the blowout process much more straight forward. :)
Is a backflow preventer or a vacuum breaker needed if I have non siphon valves? Is a pressure regulator needed from my main water valve if the pressure is high? Thanks.
Nice work! Those PVB's tight up close to the house can be tough...I need to get one of those cloths that you showed in the video, sure beats my unfolded cardboard box! Lol
Thank you for creating this helpful video.
I have an old copper irrigation system. what's the best and easiest way to rise the heads to the current grass level? The current heads don't even seem to be solder on the pipe.
The Heat Resistant cloth was worth whatever the cost.
Nice, informative video...very helpful.
Do you use same drain hose to winterize sprinklers also? FYI, I learned a lot from your videos, particularly for lawn.
Sweet video! Exactly what I was looking for.
Great video. One question, is it possible to use a sharkbite connecter, instead of having to solder. Thanks
Yes you definitely can, I know a lot of people hate them but I have a number of them in my house and none have leaked or been any kid of issue. They are rated for in-wall use too which is the best you can asl for . So yes you can use them.
Do you use Oatey 15804 Hercules Megaloc Multi-Purpose Thread Sealant on your pipes in this video?
Awesome video! I turned my system on and I just noticed leaks around the valves around the vacuum breaker. I had it replaced in 2017 by a company. Any recommendations on the leaks (one is near one of the valves w/flat head screw and the other is near the bottom of the breaker)? Is it just tightening? Or is it removing the whole breaker and adding more sealant like you did this this video?
Thank you. Is it leaking at the threads or right at the flat head screw portion?
Silver Cymbal The threads. And then, same at the bottom of the breaker where it meets the pipe going into the ground
Are you using the KNIPEX 10-Inch Pliers Wrench with Comfort Grip? Great video!!
Yes its a really awesome wrench, this amzn.to/2NaYCvB is one of the best tools around. It's almost 7 years old too.
At my sprinkler backflow the long pipe going into the ground rusted and is now leaking. I'd like to take it on myself. Is it just as easy as applying a heat gun and removing it?
You don't usually need the heat to remove a pipe but it depends on the situation.
Could solder the hole shut
You maked look easy, I always have a leaks...
Another good video with lots of info
👍
Do I have to have a torch?
You do or you can use Shark bite fittings.
Wow great video
What happens if you just remove it?
Probably violating local codes, as risk of backflow contaminating public water lines in the event of a pressure drop, can suck water from your lines, and if they catch you, far bigger fines than the cost of proper maintenance.
Thanks!
Well done
reusing certain parts, you should've saved some time and money and just cut the old valve out instead of carefully disassembling it. Also, you can no longer just "make the repair" yourself legally. Once repairs are made on these devices, an ASSE certified backflow preventer tester must come out and certify this device. Buying a "$60 device on Amazon to save money" can cost you much more than just paying the price for the good parts in the beginning. Handy Randy needs to stay the f&$k off the internet!!!
That is one of the better videos I've seen. One comment I'd make is about the pipe dope. There are 2 types that I have seen.1- the type that says it needs to set up for 24 hours before you turn the water on. & 2- the type that says you can pressurize it immediately. The latter is best. Also an old license plate works as a heat shield and is easily bent. Might as well go for the "Hat Trick" The 3rd comment is that while propane gas works fine, Mapp gas in the yellow canister burns hotter and takes less time.... & where allowed, I like a ball valve with a freeze plug so it doesn't crack over winter if it isn't drained right. www.freezeproofvalve.com