Excellent work. I seem to remember the Aussies being at the forefront of casting home-made Bantam heads back in the 60s. You stand in a fine tradition!! Happy Christmas mate.. Les 🇬🇧
That worked a treat. All ur practise at casting is turning out beater each time. Great work. And have a safe an peace full christmas to ye all there bones.❤
Terrific result, this is definitely a skill that’s going to help tremendously as the parts for these lovely old bike must be getting harder and harder to locate. Have a ripper Christmas and a wonderful New Year. Take care 👍🎅🎅
Bones !!!! Mate !!! Success pal. Such an interesting video. All my best to your family over the festive period pal. Many respects to you. PS our nights soon get longer so yours will be erm …. Getting shorter 😂
To deposit your parting powder try a few layers of panty hose, cut from the legs, if you leave it a bit long it will bounce and sieve the clumps in the powder. Just explaining what you want them for to your significant other will be a fun video. Great videos and fine casting results. Take care.
I've only just seen your work for the first time and as a bantam owner and tuner (many years back), I've a couple of questions, why cast rings and not just cut them from sheet if you're sandwich them together what's the difference? Are you just doing 3 speed engines or bouth 3 and 4? One thing I have is precision cut crank case stuffers that sit between the flywheel and are pegged In place to stop movement. These have a thin flange that has a razor edge that keeps them pinched between the case half's. These where made for me by an engineer friend and help primarily case compression so aiding gas flow up to the combustion chamber. Are you going to use these? Are there rules as to how far you can develop these engines? As you are getting good at casting I've allways wanted a 750cc A10 😉great to see a plan come together 👍🇬🇧
Hi, I'm trying to faithfully replicate an engine built in the 1950's by an Australian tuner called Eric Walsh. His fastest 125 Bantam was 112Mph. I'm presuming you're in the Uk? The engine cooling fins were cast on the original engine. I'm racing in the Ultralight Class at Sellicks Beach in South Australia next year. My stepson and I are doing 2 bikes. Crankcase stuffers are going out of fashion as there is a school of thought that it takes up too much volume and restricts the amount of fuel/air that can be delivered to the combustion chamber. I use the original stuffer plates and seal them with aircraft fuel tank sealer to make them gas tight. Rules are totally different to the UK. We are not allowed to do the following: Water Cooling, Flat slide carbs, Reed Valves, Disc brakes etc. Sellicks Beach Races are for bikes built before 1963. I'm only doing 3 speed 125 as the 175 bikes are in the 250 class and would be a bit challenged. Plus I have a pile of 125 stuff. We came 2nd in class last year, so we are hoping to maintain our position up the top end of the field next year. There's a video on Sellicks in my playlist if you're interested.
First of your video's I've seen. Never knew anyone was still 'playing' with Bantam's, I haven't even seen one since I was about 14 (50+ years ago) Are you doing frames standard black or Post Office red (it's a British colour, you probably know that, not sure if Oz gad the same?) Friends had from D 1 to D14/4, making them 'faster' led to all sorts of 'problems' (crank plates falling off, generators falling apart, etc) I've been subscribed to 'Old Foundryman' for years, hell of a nice bloke, answered questions I had without making me feel extra stupid. I'm kind surprised your not machinig an angle on 'fin', Phil Irvin's Tuning for Speed from 1950's says taper fins are more efficient for cooling (I would expect you have at least one copy?) What interference fit are you using on liner? Most sources say around 0.004", about 0.0015" per inch of bore but I've never had much luck that tight and use around 0.003" on a 70~90mm OD liner (I find pistons that fit the engines I have, Yamaha XV750 pistons in XS650 with Honda CR500 rods gives 800cc. ) Suzuki GS850 pistons in Honda CB360 gives a 390 without any other work (except 'mix and match' gaskets to get piston to head clearance correct
Hi.....Bantam frames came in many colours from Mist Green, Black, Red, Grey. It depends on the bike and model. We didn't have the red GPO Bantams here. The fins were machined tapered ( Like "Tuning for Speed") after I posted the video. We had a 40c day here so was a bit hot in the shed, so I did the edit and post instead of being in the shed. Interference fit is .002" as the finished size their going on to is 58mm. I have to be a bit careful as the wall thickness of the cast iron portion of the barrel will be 3mm. This all has to be done prior to boring and honing. Ideally I'd like a full alloy barrel and thicker liner........MK2 version of the engine. I've run out of time to develop one.
@@OzBSABantams Is 3mm wall thickness or total? It's about the minimum you can get away with, on a two stroke with lower cylinder pressures (because compression doesn't really start until piston closes port) it's less likely to deform. I guess the flange will help support top of cylinder plus have much better heat transfer as it looks quite substantial. I find what your doing really interesting, subscribed .
@1crazypj 3mm wall thickness. I'm basically replicating an engine built in the 50's by Eric Walsh. He built and raced many Bantams very successfully. Look him up on google.
That was very satisfying seeing a nice shiny fin as the result of all that hard work.
Thanks Mate, I'm getting close to the engine!
As with the fibreglass you have far more patience than I have. I am really intrigued with the idea of shrinking on individual fins. Great work again.
I should be putting the fins on in the not-too-distant future so stay tuned.
Excellent work. I seem to remember the Aussies being at the forefront of casting home-made Bantam heads back in the 60s. You stand in a fine tradition!! Happy Christmas mate.. Les 🇬🇧
I should actually do a video on the weird and wonderful collection of Bantam race heads I have. Thanks for commenting.
Congratulations in having a great casting result Bones. Well earned.
Thanks for commenting and your ongoing support.
That worked a treat. All ur practise at casting is turning out beater each time. Great work. And have a safe an peace full christmas to ye all there bones.❤
Thanks Gerald and Seasons Greeting to you to..........
Nice work Bones. So happy the castings worked out.
Cheers, Peter.
Thanks Peter, I was a bit worried they wouldn't be good enough!
Terrific result, this is definitely a skill that’s going to help tremendously as the parts for these lovely old bike must be getting harder and harder to locate. Have a ripper Christmas and a wonderful New Year. Take care 👍🎅🎅
Have a Merry Xmas mate.......
As normal, a very, very good video, look forward to the next one.
Thank you.......Well I hope it won't be too far away
Looks like you've cracked this casting lark mate. Good luck with the head. Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean, Merry Christmas to all the family from us.
@OzBSABantams Likewise mate, merry Christmas to you all.
Nice job with the fin's. Plus half a golf club as a bonus 😅😅
I'd never really picked up on that until you pointed it out!
Bones !!!! Mate !!! Success pal. Such an interesting video. All my best to your family over the festive period pal. Many respects to you. PS our nights soon get longer so yours will be erm …. Getting shorter 😂
Thanks Mate......40c today it was a bit too hot to ride. Days getting shorter I hadn't noticed. You have a merry christmas mate.........
To deposit your parting powder try a few layers of panty hose, cut from the legs, if you leave it a bit long it will bounce and sieve the clumps in the powder.
Just explaining what you want them for to your significant other will be a fun video.
Great videos and fine casting results.
Take care.
Yes that is a great idea. I've asked and she has agreed.....She doesn't question me much!
I've only just seen your work for the first time and as a bantam owner and tuner (many years back), I've a couple of questions, why cast rings and not just cut them from sheet if you're sandwich them together what's the difference? Are you just doing 3 speed engines or bouth 3 and 4? One thing I have is precision cut crank case stuffers that sit between the flywheel and are pegged In place to stop movement. These have a thin flange that has a razor edge that keeps them pinched between the case half's. These where made for me by an engineer friend and help primarily case compression so aiding gas flow up to the combustion chamber. Are you going to use these? Are there rules as to how far you can develop these engines? As you are getting good at casting I've allways wanted a 750cc A10 😉great to see a plan come together 👍🇬🇧
Hi, I'm trying to faithfully replicate an engine built in the 1950's by an Australian tuner called Eric Walsh. His fastest 125 Bantam was 112Mph. I'm presuming you're in the Uk? The engine cooling fins were cast on the original engine. I'm racing in the Ultralight Class at Sellicks Beach in South Australia next year. My stepson and I are doing 2 bikes. Crankcase stuffers are going out of fashion as there is a school of thought that it takes up too much volume and restricts the amount of fuel/air that can be delivered to the combustion chamber. I use the original stuffer plates and seal them with aircraft fuel tank sealer to make them gas tight. Rules are totally different to the UK. We are not allowed to do the following: Water Cooling, Flat slide carbs, Reed Valves, Disc brakes etc. Sellicks Beach Races are for bikes built before 1963. I'm only doing 3 speed 125 as the 175 bikes are in the 250 class and would be a bit challenged. Plus I have a pile of 125 stuff. We came 2nd in class last year, so we are hoping to maintain our position up the top end of the field next year. There's a video on Sellicks in my playlist if you're interested.
Very impressive
Thanks........
First of your video's I've seen.
Never knew anyone was still 'playing' with Bantam's, I haven't even seen one since I was about 14 (50+ years ago)
Are you doing frames standard black or Post Office red (it's a British colour, you probably know that, not sure if Oz gad the same?)
Friends had from D 1 to D14/4, making them 'faster' led to all sorts of 'problems' (crank plates falling off, generators falling apart, etc)
I've been subscribed to 'Old Foundryman' for years, hell of a nice bloke, answered questions I had without making me feel extra stupid.
I'm kind surprised your not machinig an angle on 'fin', Phil Irvin's Tuning for Speed from 1950's says taper fins are more efficient for cooling (I would expect you have at least one copy?)
What interference fit are you using on liner?
Most sources say around 0.004", about 0.0015" per inch of bore but I've never had much luck that tight and use around 0.003" on a 70~90mm OD liner (I find pistons that fit the engines I have, Yamaha XV750 pistons in XS650 with Honda CR500 rods gives 800cc. )
Suzuki GS850 pistons in Honda CB360 gives a 390 without any other work (except 'mix and match' gaskets to get piston to head clearance correct
Hi.....Bantam frames came in many colours from Mist Green, Black, Red, Grey. It depends on the bike and model. We didn't have the red GPO Bantams here. The fins were machined tapered ( Like "Tuning for Speed") after I posted the video. We had a 40c day here so was a bit hot in the shed, so I did the edit and post instead of being in the shed. Interference fit is .002" as the finished size their going on to is 58mm. I have to be a bit careful as the wall thickness of the cast iron portion of the barrel will be 3mm. This all has to be done prior to boring and honing. Ideally I'd like a full alloy barrel and thicker liner........MK2 version of the engine. I've run out of time to develop one.
@@OzBSABantams
Is 3mm wall thickness or total?
It's about the minimum you can get away with, on a two stroke with lower cylinder pressures (because compression doesn't really start until piston closes port) it's less likely to deform.
I guess the flange will help support top of cylinder plus have much better heat transfer as it looks quite substantial.
I find what your doing really interesting, subscribed .
@1crazypj 3mm wall thickness. I'm basically replicating an engine built in the 50's by Eric Walsh. He built and raced many Bantams very successfully. Look him up on google.
@@OzBSABantams thanks, I will.
Yeah, what’s the spoonful of Milo at the end of the pour about?
It's a chemical that has an exothermic reaction to stop the vent material cooling down too quickly.
Hi mate what's the red sand for at the end of the jo
It's a chemical that has an exothermic reaction to stop the vent material cooling down too quickly.