I just had the following heat pump condenser and air handler installed, GSZC703610A AMVT42CP1400A, it’s supposed to be a 2 stage unit but I’m concerned it was connected in a way it’s only operating as a 1 stage. Can I email you photos of the wiring so you can take a look?
With a communicating air handler / furnace, it is much simpler to do all of this set up via bluetooth and the coolcloud app. It lets you set up everything assuming you understand what equipment you have. In regards to dehumidification and so on. Look up the cfm on the AHRI certificate and ideally operate there (in AC mode) for the best efficiency. Normally that will not be at the full 400 cfm / ton of the unit, it will be backed off a bit. Set up properly with the right profiles, these units work awesome - at least mine does and I set it all up myself.
Christopher - thanks for the post! I agree, that the Bluetooth setup is a great way to do this. I finally got mine dialed in (communicating mode), but it took some effort. I am still using my NEST Gen3 thermostat and here is what I did to get it to work: At furnace, connect White and Black wires to 4 conductor Phoenix plug. Wired NEST with a single Y and W - no need for Y2 or W2. Left C and G wires to furnace only. Did not use R and C to outdoor compressor - it has a 24VAC transformer installed. At compressor, removed 6 connector Phoenix plug (used for non-communicating mode between furnace and compressor) and install 4 conductor plug (1,2, R,C). R & C connected to 24VAC transformer. Only 2 wires required from furnace! My Observations: The CoolCloud (IOS app) Bluetooth poor connection issue is the main reason installers avoid using, in particular, if furnace is in the attic. You have to be really close to the unit to keep connected. However, I arranged my wires inside furnace away from the integrated Bluetooth chip (lower left side on board) and made sure the high current wires were move as far as possible from that area of the board. I also arranged wires so that the panel door did not have to be removed to get the 3-digit code. After completing this, I was able to get an addition bar of signal strength - while in bedroom. I no longer had to be in the attic to stay connected! Yay!! I wanted to monitor performance of the communicating mode and try to compare with the NEST modulating efforts. The code resets after 8 hours or so and I did not want to climb back to attic to get the new code. The thermostat Off, On, Off procedure works but is cumbersome to me. So, I mounted an old Amcrest camera with a magnetic base inside the furnace. This was an idea my wife gave me and it turns out this was a brilliant idea!! This 10-year-old WiFi camera now allows me to view the 3-segment display without going to the attic. I even monitor it while away from home. If I need to get a new code, I just look at the camera - have not been in the attic all week. I use the camera most of the time now to monitor since the 3-segment display shows what is going on, mode, airflow, etc. After about 8 days of use, I can confirm that the communicating algorithm (mode 4 for me) seems to be working great. This thing runs in Stage 1 most of the time and I see the 1/2, 7, and greater, minute changes occurring with different CFM readings. Although I use the 30-minute target with Cooling Trim Factor=0, I do see the CFM reporting 1245 at times. I am going to give this a good week or two and go from there. The CoolCloud IOS app does not seem to be supported by Goodman anymore. When looking at google reviews that are current and over 4 years old, they are still using the same canned reply, "we are working on it". I am really hoping that the folks that did the app programming are NOT the same who did the modulating program algorithms. I will be posting a TH-cam review of the app I will name, "CoolCloud - Unmarred by Progress". ComfortBridge is such a good concept that is unfortunately destroyed by horrific CoolCloud app. The whole security code nonsense is such a waste and roadblock to AC technicians trying to use. Thanks again for your post - I was wondering if anyone even looks at this video anymore.
There up to 4 different communicating air conditioners and 4 heat pumps but all of them will have standard 208/230 connections for L1 L2 and a earth ground connection and should be plainly marked. with 2 of the models you can wire legacy (RCY1Y2OW) but if taking advantage of the indoor blue tooth set up your connections on control would be 1 and 2, never the R and C from inside on new equipment.
My company just got the first one of these from Johnstone. I just put the air handler with 10kw electric heat and a 2 stage heat pump. Using an ecobee I’m kind of confused if I wire it normally R,C,G,W,Y,Y2 from stat and to HP or if it stages the heat pump itself and I just connect Y. Also when using 24v ac wiring and remove the 4 wire plug at the outdoor, do you just unhook it from the transformer and the black and grey wires since I have R and C feeding the heat pumps board from air handler?
If the outdoor unit is communicating (I need model) you can wire the 1 and 2 only and the stat will be RCWYG only and set up as a 1H1C stat non heatpump and it will control the heatpump and electric heat. If you wire legacy (standard) you can wire up a heatpump thermostat and standard wires outside but the 12RC plug is unplugged and replaced, the RC power from outside will not be used.
I have two AVPTC37C14 with two identical GSZC160361 condensers. Both of the units were having problems with locked rotor faults on the compressor motor, pretty much since installation. I looked into it and found that they had been legacy wired using a two-stage thermostat. I changed one to 'communicating' and it's been working fine for about a week. When I tried to do the same with the other system, it did not work. The control boards are different on the indoor units. The one that is fixed has three led digits, the other one has one. Can I use the single led board in a communicating system or does it have to be legacy wired?
No, put 3 wire hard starts on both units to resolve your locked rotor code. They are slightly slow to start and the board has no forgiveness for timing. CSR-U-1 is Goodman part number., the schematic shows where to make connections. You can use any brand but do not use the 2 wire.
This is my Krptonite. CODE: d0 - Air conditioner/heat pump is wired as part of a communicating system and integrated control module does not contain any shared data
D0 code can be corrected by data transfer, simple has connecting with unit (may show up as a shared data card). It will request model of unit and transfer data. If that will not function a data chip can be used (programable shared data) and is loaded on the Cr function of the menu. If none of this works for you let us know and we can do a short video on the data transfer. If your D0 is on a Unit over 5 years old and not bluetooth a standard chip can be ordered and is simply installed in data slot poer unit up 60 seconds and done.
It is not a question if it was activated, it is part of the system. But in the set up the cfm can be set as well as a dehum profile to assist in de humidification. excessive airflow is the enemy of de hum.
@@jerryees If you do not understand the CFM and the relationship to de humidification I would proceed with caution. But if you down load the cool cloud app and talk to your unit or view all the settings before you do anything, at give yourself a chance to ask questions first you could be ok.
The equipment is in constant pairing mode, you will not see it if something in the home has paired with it. I get this in lab when students pair with it it locks me out. Cycle the power and try to pair right away. If you still can not pair send me the serial number and I will see if a production run had issues.
I have a Goodman 4 ton condenser, and a 5 ton air handler. I'm trying to bring the humidity down. I don't have a heat. I scrolled to CAP. It showed 4 3 2 1. Which should I be on, what are the correct steps when pushing the buttons to slow down the variable speed fan so humidity goes down. Thanks for the help.
D would offer the profile best for removing latent heat (the humidity). If you are on a 9 speed we would need to view the model and ESP to review your CFM but if you scroll and see "ton" then your on a comfort bridge. You need to be 100% sure your on 4 ton or lower to have a chance of humidity removal, the ramp profiles slow the blower down by 7.5%, you can comfortably slow a 4 ton down to 4.8 and increase your latent removal with out threat to lowering super heat. All Goodman Units have the ability to control the blower using a de-humidistat to control the blower adjustment automatically with high humidity in the home and speed it back up when levels are comfortable. Look for your installation manual on line for information on the set up and if you feel its over your skill level contact a Dealer familiar with the equipment.
I am a homeowner and recently installed a Goodman Heat pump (GSZC180241) and an auxiliary Gas Furnace (GMVC960603Bn). The system runs fine except the heat pump will not come below 41 degrees F. Instead the gas furnace comes on. I know the heat pump should be able to operate at lower temperatures, but my HVAC installer doesn't know how to adjust the point where the gas furnace takes over. He also tells me that the Goodman factory doesn't have any suggestions on how to do this. Can you help me with this issue?
Be happy to, on this system the thermostat would control the change over point, upstage and droop with the exception of the Daikin ONE thermostat that would function on balance point only. Please let me know what thermostat you are using and we will figure it out.
@@johnstonecg Thank you for your quick response. My thermostat is a White - Rodgers Emerson Blue Easy Reader 1F95EZ-0671. The following terminals are in use: C RH RC O/B W/E G Y.
@@BrianMoffatt-kf2dv Since you are using the O you are wired in HP mode and all the stage settings between HP and gas are controlled by the thermostat. That WR does not have an outdoor sensor and will not control the heat pump lockout by temperature, it also lacks precise staging control and any droop control. You can slow the rate of back up by going into setup for HP menu item 19 and move from 5 to a smaller number (start with 3 or 2). Sorry but that is the limit for that thermostat, the WR line i simplex but offers minimal control.
@@johnstonecg I may still have the option of switching thermostats. Is there another one that is especially suited to the Comfort Bridge system? I thought the advantage of the Comfort Bridge system was that it could be run by a simple thermostat?
@@BrianMoffatt-kf2dv It will run on any thermostat, even a on off light switch but you have limited control when to simplified. The Honeywell T6220 is are most popular thermostat for heat pumps. user interface is very simple and the set up gets complex as you want it do if needed. The T10 is not far behind that.
@@johnstonecg so your telling all I have to do is use the other terminal block ? I want to put a Nest thermostat. I know, I know don't ridicule me for doing so. The wife wants it🤷🏾♂️
yes, but the outdoor unit will need to be legacy wired as well. The board and outdoor unit will respond to the legacy signals and the comm wires 1 and 2 will not function.
@@johnstonecg alot easier than I expected, I wired it like a normal thermostat indoor on the extra terminal block.The blower worked, but the outdoor unit didn't kick on as you eluded to in this video. Haven't looked at the condenser but I'm assuming the condenser has the same terminal connectors as the indoor unit? I'd have to order another terminal connector like the one I have for the indoor correct?
@@dl7481 The outdoor unit gets the same 24 volts as the board. So Y will run high speed fan indoors and compressor outdoors. The indoor board does not tell the outdoor what to operate, that's done by thermostat. Your indoor may be running off the G signal for fan and the Y is not functioning? If you have a meter check for 24 volts between Y and C outdoor. If you have a separate transformer wired to R and C outdoors unhook it and use R and C from indoor.
We had a Goodman furnace installed two weeks ago with a comfort bridge and it is wreaking havoc on our thermostat. Some days the 2nd stage will kick at the very end and some at the very beginning. Fan speed will fluctuate and then the thermostat will lock out the reading. What a complete POS. I am looking at my legal options to return this crap.
I just had the following heat pump condenser and air handler installed,
GSZC703610A
AMVT42CP1400A, it’s supposed to be a 2 stage unit but I’m concerned it was connected in a way it’s only operating as a 1 stage. Can I email you photos of the wiring so you can take a look?
training
@johnstonecg.com
With a communicating air handler / furnace, it is much simpler to do all of this set up via bluetooth and the coolcloud app. It lets you set up everything assuming you understand what equipment you have. In regards to dehumidification and so on. Look up the cfm on the AHRI certificate and ideally operate there (in AC mode) for the best efficiency. Normally that will not be at the full 400 cfm / ton of the unit, it will be backed off a bit. Set up properly with the right profiles, these units work awesome - at least mine does and I set it all up myself.
Christopher - thanks for the post! I agree, that the Bluetooth setup is a great way to do this. I finally got mine dialed in (communicating mode), but it took some effort. I am still using my NEST Gen3 thermostat and here is what I did to get it to work:
At furnace, connect White and Black wires to 4 conductor Phoenix plug.
Wired NEST with a single Y and W - no need for Y2 or W2. Left C and G wires to furnace only. Did not use R and C to outdoor compressor - it has a 24VAC transformer installed.
At compressor, removed 6 connector Phoenix plug (used for non-communicating mode between furnace and compressor) and install 4 conductor plug (1,2, R,C). R & C connected to 24VAC transformer. Only 2 wires required from furnace!
My Observations:
The CoolCloud (IOS app) Bluetooth poor connection issue is the main reason installers avoid using, in particular, if furnace is in the attic. You have to be really close to the unit to keep connected. However, I arranged my wires inside furnace away from the integrated Bluetooth chip (lower left side on board) and made sure the high current wires were move as far as possible from that area of the board. I also arranged wires so that the panel door did not have to be removed to get the 3-digit code. After completing this, I was able to get an addition bar of signal strength - while in bedroom. I no longer had to be in the attic to stay connected! Yay!!
I wanted to monitor performance of the communicating mode and try to compare with the NEST modulating efforts. The code resets after 8 hours or so and I did not want to climb back to attic to get the new code. The thermostat Off, On, Off procedure works but is cumbersome to me. So, I mounted an old Amcrest camera with a magnetic base inside the furnace. This was an idea my wife gave me and it turns out this was a brilliant idea!! This 10-year-old WiFi camera now allows me to view the 3-segment display without going to the attic. I even monitor it while away from home. If I need to get a new code, I just look at the camera - have not been in the attic all week. I use the camera most of the time now to monitor since the 3-segment display shows what is going on, mode, airflow, etc.
After about 8 days of use, I can confirm that the communicating algorithm (mode 4 for me) seems to be working great. This thing runs in Stage 1 most of the time and I see the 1/2, 7, and greater, minute changes occurring with different CFM readings. Although I use the 30-minute target with Cooling Trim Factor=0, I do see the CFM reporting 1245 at times. I am going to give this a good week or two and go from there.
The CoolCloud IOS app does not seem to be supported by Goodman anymore. When looking at google reviews that are current and over 4 years old, they are still using the same canned reply, "we are working on it". I am really hoping that the folks that did the app programming are NOT the same who did the modulating program algorithms. I will be posting a TH-cam review of the app I will name, "CoolCloud - Unmarred by Progress".
ComfortBridge is such a good concept that is unfortunately destroyed by horrific CoolCloud app. The whole security code nonsense is such a waste and roadblock to AC technicians trying to use.
Thanks again for your post - I was wondering if anyone even looks at this video anymore.
Is there any videos on how the high voltage should be wired in the condenser that has a Bluetooth bord?
There up to 4 different communicating air conditioners and 4 heat pumps but all of them will have standard 208/230 connections for L1 L2 and a earth ground connection and should be plainly marked. with 2 of the models you can wire legacy (RCY1Y2OW) but if taking advantage of the indoor blue tooth set up your connections on control would be 1 and 2, never the R and C from inside on new equipment.
My company just got the first one of these from Johnstone. I just put the air handler with 10kw electric heat and a 2 stage heat pump. Using an ecobee I’m kind of confused if I wire it normally R,C,G,W,Y,Y2 from stat and to HP or if it stages the heat pump itself and I just connect Y. Also when using 24v ac wiring and remove the 4 wire plug at the outdoor, do you just unhook it from the transformer and the black and grey wires since I have R and C feeding the heat pumps board from air handler?
Thanks ahead of time if you respond
If the outdoor unit is communicating (I need model) you can wire the 1 and 2 only and the stat will be RCWYG only and set up as a 1H1C stat non heatpump and it will control the heatpump and electric heat. If you wire legacy (standard) you can wire up a heatpump thermostat and standard wires outside but the 12RC plug is unplugged and replaced, the RC power from outside will not be used.
@@johnstonecg I just got the model numbers. The air handler is AMVT42CP1400 Heat pump is GSZC703610.
I have two AVPTC37C14 with two identical GSZC160361 condensers. Both of the units were having problems with locked rotor faults on the compressor motor, pretty much since installation. I looked into it and found that they had been legacy wired using a two-stage thermostat. I changed one to 'communicating' and it's been working fine for about a week. When I tried to do the same with the other system, it did not work. The control boards are different on the indoor units. The one that is fixed has three led digits, the other one has one. Can I use the single led board in a communicating system or does it have to be legacy wired?
No, put 3 wire hard starts on both units to resolve your locked rotor code. They are slightly slow to start and the board has no forgiveness for timing. CSR-U-1 is Goodman part number., the schematic shows where to make connections. You can use any brand but do not use the 2 wire.
This is my Krptonite. CODE: d0 - Air conditioner/heat pump is wired as part of a communicating system and integrated control module does not contain any shared data
D0 code can be corrected by data transfer, simple has connecting with unit (may show up as a shared data card). It will request model of unit and transfer data. If that will not function a data chip can be used (programable shared data) and is loaded on the Cr function of the menu. If none of this works for you let us know and we can do a short video on the data transfer. If your D0 is on a Unit over 5 years old and not bluetooth a standard chip can be ordered and is simply installed in data slot poer unit up 60 seconds and done.
I have a 3 ton Amana unit and have a problem with high humidity. I was wondering if this is because comfortbrifge was never activated on my unit?
It is not a question if it was activated, it is part of the system. But in the set up the cfm can be set as well as a dehum profile to assist in de humidification. excessive airflow is the enemy of de hum.
@Johnstone Supply Cafferty Group how hard would it be to adjust the cfms and set up humidification?
@@jerryees If you do not understand the CFM and the relationship to de humidification I would proceed with caution. But if you down load the cool cloud app and talk to your unit or view all the settings before you do anything, at give yourself a chance to ask questions first you could be ok.
How do I get the air handle to go into pairing mode. I cannot connect using the app. It never finnds the equipment
The equipment is in constant pairing mode, you will not see it if something in the home has paired with it. I get this in lab when students pair with it it locks me out. Cycle the power and try to pair right away. If you still can not pair send me the serial number and I will see if a production run had issues.
I have a Goodman 4 ton condenser, and a 5 ton air handler. I'm trying to bring the humidity down. I don't have a heat. I scrolled to CAP. It showed 4 3 2 1.
Which should I be on, what are the correct steps when pushing the buttons to slow down the variable speed fan so humidity goes down.
Thanks for the help.
I don't have a heating element, I'm in Florida.
D would offer the profile best for removing latent heat (the humidity). If you are on a 9 speed we would need to view the model and ESP to review your CFM but if you scroll and see "ton" then your on a comfort bridge. You need to be 100% sure your on 4 ton or lower to have a chance of humidity removal, the ramp profiles slow the blower down by 7.5%, you can comfortably slow a 4 ton down to 4.8 and increase your latent removal with out threat to lowering super heat. All Goodman Units have the ability to control the blower using a de-humidistat to control the blower adjustment automatically with high humidity in the home and speed it back up when levels are comfortable. Look for your installation manual on line for information on the set up and if you feel its over your skill level contact a Dealer familiar with the equipment.
I am a homeowner and recently installed a Goodman Heat pump (GSZC180241) and an auxiliary Gas Furnace (GMVC960603Bn). The system runs fine except the heat pump will not come below 41 degrees F. Instead the gas furnace comes on. I know the heat pump should be able to operate at lower temperatures, but my HVAC installer doesn't know how to adjust the point where the gas furnace takes over. He also tells me that the Goodman factory doesn't have any suggestions on how to do this. Can you help me with this issue?
Be happy to, on this system the thermostat would control the change over point, upstage and droop with the exception of the Daikin ONE thermostat that would function on balance point only. Please let me know what thermostat you are using and we will figure it out.
@@johnstonecg Thank you for your quick response. My thermostat is a White - Rodgers Emerson Blue Easy Reader 1F95EZ-0671. The following terminals are in use: C RH RC O/B W/E G Y.
@@BrianMoffatt-kf2dv Since you are using the O you are wired in HP mode and all the stage settings between HP and gas are controlled by the thermostat. That WR does not have an outdoor sensor and will not control the heat pump lockout by temperature, it also lacks precise staging control and any droop control. You can slow the rate of back up by going into setup for HP menu item 19 and move from 5 to a smaller number (start with 3 or 2). Sorry but that is the limit for that thermostat, the WR line i simplex but offers minimal control.
@@johnstonecg I may still have the option of switching thermostats. Is there another one that is especially suited to the Comfort Bridge system? I thought the advantage of the Comfort Bridge system was that it could be run by a simple thermostat?
@@BrianMoffatt-kf2dv It will run on any thermostat, even a on off light switch but you have limited control when to simplified. The Honeywell T6220 is are most popular thermostat for heat pumps. user interface is very simple and the set up gets complex as you want it do if needed. The T10 is not far behind that.
My unit is GMVC80704BX, I do not have buttons near my lcd to set legacy mode. I see dip switches???
That series would not be the comfort bridge series. On a standard board a plug with legacy connections is all that's needed.
@@johnstonecg so your telling all I have to do is use the other terminal block ? I want to put a Nest thermostat. I know, I know don't ridicule me for doing so. The wife wants it🤷🏾♂️
yes, but the outdoor unit will need to be legacy wired as well. The board and outdoor unit will respond to the legacy signals and the comm wires 1 and 2 will not function.
@@johnstonecg alot easier than I expected, I wired it like a normal thermostat indoor on the extra terminal block.The blower worked, but the outdoor unit didn't kick on as you eluded to in this video. Haven't looked at the condenser but I'm assuming the condenser has the same terminal connectors as the indoor unit? I'd have to order another terminal connector like the one I have for the indoor correct?
@@dl7481 The outdoor unit gets the same 24 volts as the board. So Y will run high speed fan indoors and compressor outdoors. The indoor board does not tell the outdoor what to operate, that's done by thermostat. Your indoor may be running off the G signal for fan and the Y is not functioning? If you have a meter check for 24 volts between Y and C outdoor. If you have a separate transformer wired to R and C outdoors unhook it and use R and C from indoor.
What’s A05 FAN code?
A is for airflow so A05 is fan running at 500CFM
We had a Goodman furnace installed two weeks ago with a comfort bridge and it is wreaking havoc on our thermostat. Some days the 2nd stage will kick at the very end and some at the very beginning. Fan speed will fluctuate and then the thermostat will lock out the reading. What a complete POS. I am looking at my legal options to return this crap.
Quick is right. Try speaking slower