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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- This video will show you how simple it is to make sash weights without having to melt lead or buy cast iron/steel weights. I always carry a roll of Code 4 roofers lead in the van.
If a weight is missing, or is to light to counterbalance the sash it only takes a minute to make weights.
Sash cord is generally about 6-7mm thick and so I use a long screwdriver with a 8mm shank to roll the lead. The most comfortable size to use is 100mm 4" wide. 150mm 6"works well but requires a bit of technique. 200mm 8" is a nightmare to roll. The "sausage" roll should not be thicker than the other weights in the chamber. Otherwise it will probably cause the weights to stick or clash.
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That’s a genius move Jim! We get ripped off massively here for make weights, I’ve just worked out I can buy a roll of 110 mm lead for $120 which is apparently 20kg! Yielding 44 lb = $2.70 odd a pound! Cast iron 1 lb is around $6! Lead make weights $7! With shipping close to 3x the price!
Yes they are ‘pretty’ but who cares!?
A roll of lead behind my seat, pull it out make make weights when I need them!
I’ve always seen silly bits of flashing wrapped around the original weights, increasing little to actual weight and usually jamming up in box.
So simple, I never considered it!
First purchase tomorrow !
Thank you 🙏
Thank you for your feedback, it's appreciated.
Generally I use Code 3 Lead
Code Thickness (mm)
Code 3 1.32mm
Code 4 1.80mm
The thinner the lead the easier it is to roll.
@@jimsear I’m thinking I’ll roll it until I work out what 2lb is roughly, then it should cut in half easy enough or quarters for half pounds
Actually thinking about it, it should not be hard to work out what weight each 50 mm length off the roll is or whatever, which will be a constant 👍🏻
A bit more effort involved but significant savings 👍🏻 which is presumably why you use this method? You have mighton in UK , which would be so handy 👍🏻
Hi Jim, how do you tie them together?
The cord goes through the weight(s) and is tied off at the bottom with a simple figure of eight knot
What's slightly over? 300g?600?more?
The short answer is Yes! It's a balancing act :-) There can be so many variables in old windows. It is a judgement call. Generally, you're right with you're approximation.
I just did the sash cords
17lb top
10 lb bottom
Did it all
And the upper sash just goes straight up
Is it possible I got the weights wrong way round??
I thought heaviest always top sash.
The weights in the pocket were side by side and the bottom is sash is bigger than top.
The sash weights must match the weights of the individual sashes to balance correctly. Top sash weights should be SLIGHTLY heavier than the top sash itself. So that the sash has a tendency to want to go up. Bottom sash weights should be SLIGHTLY lighter than the bottom sash itself. So that the bottom sash has a tendency to want to close. SLIGHTLY is the variable of "suck it and see". Trial and error. Generally about a pound difference should do it in many cases. Remember remember layers of paint over the years change the balance ratios. The sashes get heavier and eventually makeweights may need to be added.
Weigh the weights and weigh the sashes. It's all about balance.
@@jimsear Jim thank you for the swift reply. The upper sash is smaller than bottom, also there's not much paint on them as I did the outside two years ago. Bottom sash with the 10lb weights holds good with the tendancy to wants to come down so the top must sash must have become lighter then.
You say few pounds difference but ours have 17 and 10 weights either side.
Could it be that the top sash too free in the run channels???
@@jimsear the top sash is 43 inch wide by 30 inch tall
Bottoms 43 wide by 45 inch tall
Lool
So I'm wondering if the 17lb is weight for bottom and 10lb for upper
Reason I got it confused is the top sash ropes went first aid weights dropped. When went to do the job today I had to cut bottom ropes, when I opened the pockets the 17 pounders were resting on to of the ten pounders which means the 17 for bottom and 10 for top??
School boy error I made I thinks. 🤔🤔
My suggestion it to take them out again and reweigh them. The weights you use have to match the weights of the individual sashes. It's no more complicated than that. Full stop.
Get used to it. It happens to everybody including me.
@@jimsear 😊 ok in the morning I will, I will take just parting bead off to get to pockets and swap weights round s coz when I re thought it's obvious the 17 pounders are for the bottom.
Anyway I will update you tomorrow In sha Allah 😇
But a thousand thank yous for your help and advice and great videos.
I came here to find out how they work and I still don’t know how they work.
You just put the weights on the rope, above the old weights. The only limit is the necessary movement of the weights in the frame.
'Carpentry And Joinery Volume 3' by Brian Porter
As a property renovator and engineer I can't agree. It's a hopeful method to get the job moving cheaply, but the rolled lead and duct tape method won't last inside the box. As the tape wears in the box the lead will start to unfurl and catch, especially thin code 3, well before the 50 years you suggest, necessitating a strip and re-fit. For all the bother and decoration required, just purchase a cast length for not much more and cut off as needed for peace of mind.
An interesting point of view.
..I’ve since watched several of your brilliant informative vids. Great work and thanks for posting. Tho I stand by my comment!😅❤
I'd have to agree. I've worked on a lot of cars and electronics that made liberal use of electrical and duct tape and it turns to a sticky gunky mess within a few years, pretty much without exception. If it doesn't it dries out and falls off instead. I don't think the rolls of lead are a bad idea and I'm sure they work, the duct tape is a detraction though.