Is The Cordless Drill Becoming Obsolete?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2022
- I feel like I'm cheating on my drill... #impactdriver #diy #cordlessdrill
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For most pros we stick to using the impact to drive screws and the drill to drill holes. You don't have to switch bits as often and you will be carrying around both anyways. Also the impact can drill small holes fast but once your drilling through multiple layers of material or heavy duty stuff the impact will be slower than the drill.
Not a pro but I prefer to have both tools handy as well, mostly to not have to change the bit holder and drills all the time. I use the 12v DeWalt set of drill motor and impact driver; they are smaller and easily fit in my toolbox unlike most beefier 18V tools. In some cases I actually prefer the drill motor for driving screws, it gives better control. And is a lot less noisy.
I also carry a small wireless Bosch electric screwdriver, it is not as powerful as either DeWalt but it's tiny and good for many jobs (especially building IKEA kitchen cabinets as I have found). Much easier to wield than even the smaller impact drivers in this video, especially in tight corners.
I have a different setup but kinda the same. I use a drill for predrilling and a power screwdriver from Milwaukee. The screwdriver has a 1/4 chuck for bits, and a clutch for limiting torque on fasteners. Best setup for my application. Whether I am hanging APs, making drops, or racking equipment.
Since getting it, my impact has been woefully neglected. I still use it but mostly at home and for diy projects that has me binding dead tree carcasses together for one reason or another.
Hope this wasn’t a click bait video impact driver and a drill has their different uses
@@EyebrowsMahoney new guy at work is full kitted with Milwaukee. That 1/4 chuck screwdriver is nice. Much quicker and easier when you're installing 100 4mm screws in panels.
Exactly I'm drilling 5/8 holes all day through doubled up 4x4s.
Love my impact. We made a place at the table for it for family dinner night.
😂
I had to check out your channel with that comment. You got yourself a new sub 🤪
@@kwaks1979 haha :) Thanks
How nice! My wife makes it eat on the floor, but hoping we change that.
@@rickybobbyracing9106 haha.
Drill- Packedge in typical box, came with a tool bag (added bonus), two batteries, one charger, drill, and driver. Two words "plenty of Torque" th-cam.com/users/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv well I guess that's three. Nice upgrade from current setup. Has belt clips, I don't think I will be using those. Driver and drill were bigger than what I expected but it is an upgrade from the current setup. For the money I would say that this is a great setup for Professionals and DIY/Weekend warriors.
As I take on more projects, I find myself reaching for a corded drill more often. Mixing cement/mortar/paint, planting bulbs or tubes with 2 in auger, drilling though steel or other metal, etc
I'd hate to use a corded drill in the garden. I've done enough light to medium-power jobs now which I would never have contemplated if I'd had to faff with extension cords and the like. But each to their own, of course :)
I use a drill for drilling and a driver for driving, sounds crazy but I'm pretty sure that's why they almost always come paired together. If I'm in my shop or if weather and location permits it, I still use a corded drill for drilling. If you are drilling all day, especially through stubborn wood the corded drill just gives that smooth constant power.
And if your corded drill is old enough, you can see the sparks from the motor brushes fly around inside the casing and sometimes escape through the vents. Just like the one my dad has owned for longer than I've been alive.
@@StephenGillie My apprentice calls that drill the "Wristbreaker 2000" cause if you bind it, the drill will keep spinning even if your wrist doesn't want it to.
@@volentipugnum4045 "The ol' wristbreaker." That goes nicely with the permanent trailer hitch on my dad's Plymouth Volare, aka "the ol' kneebreaker."
(You know how every trailer hitch is a square adapter that sits forward of the bumper so it's out of the way, and the hitch ball sits on a square tube that fits into the hitch? His is a non-removable bar of 1.25" thick steel that ends in a trailer hitch ball mount. Because that's what U-Haul installed back in the early 1980s.)
That’s why they come with a side handle!
I finally decided to sell my corded tools. they have been collecting dust for many years, I don't even pull them out any more..
Nope, drilling will never be obsolete. You will always need that chuck for various drill bits, reamers, etc..
The impact driver is simply a different animal. Made for fastening and mechanical. I have been using both for decades. The impact is a great tool with lots of use, but it's not a replacement for a drill. Just looks similar.
I have a big set of impact drill bits with 1/4" hex shanks. The impact only hammers when under torque. Depends on the project if I use two tools or swap bits...
The Milwaukee impact driver has a drill setting that gauges nesssesary torque and then applies it after a slight pause. Its AMAZING but I agree, the drill will always be. Its just now you can drill a 8mm+ hole through a steel chassis, change the bit and tap it in about 3minutes flat. Thats just not been able to happen before! Lucky us I suppose, cant help to think of by gone times when a drill was just a drill! God bless them.
Amen. In the fencing trade I may go all day using an impact driver because there is nothing better for that kinda of footage involvement. But then switch to something else when I need to do some serious material drilling and I go back to the drill....or I use both. Work in concrete and I get out the serious corded drill. Sometimes you just have to use your brain and figure out what works best and saves time. Using one drill for everything is trying to prove something and not 'reality' efficiency.
yep, although I do find myself using my corded drill for any serious drilling, and the impact for everything else, it is useful having one tool to put the holes in things and another to drive in the fasteners.
it is a replacement for most people. Chuck/chuckless drills are almost obsolete. I am a professional handyman, and I no longer use a cordless drill. I have bits for every job that are hex shank. I only drill when I need a large powerful corded drill for drilling large holes, but in that case I am not not using a drill, I am using an SDS.
I completely understand and agree with your whole take on impact driver vs a standard drill. Both have their own uses but for the work I do as a home remodeler/ repair guy, I use my impact driver 85% of the time.
If feel sorry for anyone whose house you worked on.
Don't forget about using mixing paddles in the drill chuck. Epoxy coater here and I have used cordless drills for the past 6 years and 99.99% of the time was mixing gallons in a bucket, and is a crucial tool for the job although almost never using it for fasteners or drilling. Also wire wheels in the drill for cleaning/prepping areas.
This is the comment I came for! Thank you! This guy can go right ahead and pay a premium price for drill bits with special adapters added to them... I'll buy cheaper (and better quality) cobalt drill bits and do more with them in a normal drill.
You have to use a drill for certain things. If anyone works in cabinets you'll understand.
@@landonvincent9586Sounds like a nice way to bust a cabinet up using the impact driver.
the slow speeds of conventional drills aren't as useful with wire wheels as you may think.
My impact drivers do 3700 rpm on max settings which is far more useable than the pansy 1700rpm of the usual premium brushless drill.
Buy a M12 die grinder or buff gun for prep cleaning
I install a lot of grab bars in old people's showers (Florida). Can't go through tile with an impact. Also for drilling through metal, you'll wreck your bits
My cordless drill is still my go to for drilling. I do a lot of drill/countersink and then grab the impact to drive the screws. Someone below also pointed out, you can't drill metal or tile with the impact.
Can't drill glass with an impact either.
I frequently drill mild steel with my 12v dewalt.
Why can't you drill metal? It will only spin without hammering..Which is totally fine and you can adjust the speed if it has different speeds / torque settings.
@@sizif717 you could in theory as long as the hammer never engages. If it starts to impact it will damage the drill bit.
@@sizif717 It's just not good as it's still "hitting the anvil" and that's not good when drilling metal when your feed and speed should be constant. Conventional drill is superior.
It’s nice to have a drill/hammer drill combo. I think if you’re a homeowner looking for a bare minimum tool kit, I’d buy only a impact. However, if you make a living with your tools, the drill is still very necessary.
whew thanks Bill!!
very true...drill is a lot better for long timber screws when say building a deck frame but I use the impact driver for the deck boards fasteners I think people tend to use the impact with long timber screws forget how more smooth it is with the drill as well 🤷🏼♂️🇨🇦
Thank you. I don't earn much currently and wanted to buy just one. Thank you.
But then you would need to re-buy all your drills with quarter inch hex. Wood drills, metal drills _and_ masonry drills. Those are more expensive than the standard ones and you're going to have trouble (torque without hammer equals walking drills if you hit a hard spot drilling into masonry), plus any gauges below 2 just snap in hex if you can even find any. Impact drivers are best for setting long screws into lumber, e.g. when framing/roofing, installing doors/windows or maybe building a deck. But most jobs in a home is drilling into a wall, pop a plug in and fastening shelf supports for a shelf. And driving in those screws afterwards is akin to putting together IKEA furniture - neither you need an impact driver for. To be able to do everything reasonably, the drill can do a lot more (especially with that hammer setting for masonry), and you can still use it to put together Swedish furniture if you turn the torque setting down. Next step would be to get a small driver alongside the drill - again, most just use their screwy machine for putting together furniture, which made the Bosch IXO very popular. So tiny it fits in your pocket and VERY light and is perfect for most light fastening. I'd argue impact drivers are the same class of tool, just (a lot) more beefed up - again, something most people just don't need, especially if they live in an apartment (like most people) and don't have to worry about e.g. fixing garages, fences, dog/bird house, porch, etc. etc.
The only thing I can think of is (maybe?) for people living in America where everything is drywall and not strong materials, you wouldn't need to drill much of anything at all. But for everyone else, get the combi drill.
💯💯
As pro contractors we like the convenience of the impact but we always keep a backup chuck drill in our toolbox for many reasons - much better centering when drilling precision is needed (especially drilling into metal), essential for fastening jobs needing precise torque control, and in case the hex shank fails, the chuck can still grab on to the round part. I sometimes also contract at a care home, definitely can't use the impact there because of the noise.
I’m so glad it works for you on your projects but as for me I’ll continue to use the right tool for the job. The only thing I’ve joked about for years is that as they keep increasing the battery voltage we will soon be able to just plug them into an outlet.
DeWalt offers a dual flex volt 60voltx2 setup that you can plug in. 🤦
Shots fired! Hard agree brother. Impacts are for noobs and limp wrists
A really powerful cordless drill is extremely useful and faster than an impact for drilling. I see plenty of people talk about the top-end drills being too large and heavy, but I would much rather have the power on hand. I use the made in japan Makita driver and the XPH14 drill. Not having to switch to a corded drill to make a bunch of holes fast is really nice.
i agree also impacts are known for snapping drill bits
I love my XPH14, HUUUUUGE upgrade from the xph12. I've used it to cut 8-3/8" holes through plywood, as well as a 2-1/2" self feeder with a handle.
I'm tempted to get a 7/16 hex to 1/2 square adapter and use a mid or high torque impact wrench with a self feeder.
@@Friedrich-Wilhelm-1980 Why would you want to slow a drill bit down (unless the material being drilled requires it)? Similarly, do you have "breaks" or "brakes" on your car?
@@1TruePatriot 1st i said nothing about slowing down anything
2ndly yes the hammering action on an impact drivers will snap a drill bit in nothing flat as they are hard as glass
I have both an impact and a traditional drill, but if I could afford only one, it would definitely be the drill. Because you have to have 1/4" bits for anything you want to use an impact for, it's versatility is severely limited (and costly).
Agree! The suggestion that an impact driver could replace a drill is daft!
And it is much cheaper to replace if a drill bit breaks, especially for small drills. I get a 10pack for nearly nothing for small sizes. I don't need special dampers for bits and I can use them more controlled. You can switch drill sizes faster with a bit, but you could do that the same with a traditional drill and an insert.
I have an impact drill, too, and use it. But I wouldn't want to have only that. And in the end I often use several machines with their drills bits or bits at the same time to be faster and not to change setting all the time. So the impact drill is just one more tool, but not the only one.
Sorry I will keep my Ryobi drill . I don't need a chuck key and changing bits is a snap. I can also use a magnetic screw bit holder and use those kind of drills too. You cannot twist wire with a impact tool. I will keep my drill. I can also use the old hand brace bits with my extension that the one end was cut off. That tool came in handy when drilling through thick beams on our plank house. Those were about 14 inches thick counting the studding that was put in to hang drywall. When I need a impact tool I will buy one but right now I don't see the need. 73
I see the biggest problem with choosing an impact over a drill is the lack of slip torque. I’ve been forced to use both at different times and found that impact driven screws will burry themselves when you don’t want them to, snap the screws, lack an adjustable chuck.... Driving large nuts and bolts are what their designed for and what they should be used for. Unless one is desperate or doesn’t give a damn about how it looks.
@@nikkicrouse6713 my drill does both you just set the torque or go all the way for hammer drill. I do care how my work looks even though it is going to be covered. I knew of a guy that worked for his brother in law and if he left one hammer mark on the 2x4 he would get docked when he got paid for his work. The guy ended up being a good carpenter. I have some of his work. All stained finish. The one that replaced him was awful in making similar items he just used a staple gun and never stained anything. 73
I do some low voltage cableing and computer work so for me all three drills are still used. The clutch on a standard drill is perfect for not over torqueing delicate things. The hammer drill is awesome for when you need to drill into metal or masonry to mount something and the impact driver is just amazing for everything else.
As someone who works with both daily I can't remember the last time I used my impact for anything other than driving screws.
My drill does all the drilling because it's faster.
For DIY though sure you could probably get away with just using an impact for the majority of jobs, you can even get a mini paddle whisk that can handle a 10kg mix of plaster, use it to mix grout, tile adhesive, mortar, paint, the lot
This guy is just a click bait youtuber. He preys on people too stupid to know better.
I have a big paddle that I run in an ancient Black and Decker 1/2 drill I can mix a bag of concrete in about a minute
I've trashed to many things with my impact driver. That's why I still need my cordless drill.
I started using impact drivers last year when I bought a drill/driver kit and highly recommend using the impact driver.
I have an electric mini drill for around the house. I love it because it never over tightens. It’s small and goes into a drawer. Obviously nothing one is going to use for a heavy job but love it for replacing screens, putting up hurricane shutters, replacing electrical plates or putting together any kit furniture or anything that could be stripped. The one I have has storage for bits and bends straight if needed.
I have a baby drill just like that too, in the general tool bag. I have a corded Milwaukee for serious drilling business like getting through old growth timber or fiberboard siding, and an impact for wood and drywall screws longer than like an inch. This set up seems to work well.
Back in 2018 I bought a Panasonic EY7410LA2S31. It’s been incredibly useful for working on computers and electronics equipment, which was its original intended purpose. I soon found it worked well on light fixings, such as door handles. I’ve also used it many times on much larger screws for putting up shelving. 6 years later, the original 2 batteries are still going strong. Quite amazing for a tool that cost £100.
My mom picked up a mini cordless some time ago. She uses it from time to time. I use it for light work when I visit. If the job requires extra torque, I dig out Dad's ancient drill. But the mini is great for most projects and extremely handy.
He's right about the impact being the workhorse, by a BIG margin. But you still need a drill (hammer drill) once in a while and the difference in price to get a KIT with both is so small when looked at over years of ownership, it's a no brainer for me. You just need BOTH in the end
When impact drivers first came out I thought they were just another "gimmick" tool. I now use mine daily.
Same here. It also took me a while to realize all the uses for my oscillating tool, but once I did, I loved it.
When cordless drills first came out I thought they were just another "gimmick" tool.
I used a B&D "Scru-Gun" back in the 1960's.
Thanks for a very worthwhile tip. I have been using the impact-drill-setting on my 3/4 inch cordless drill for regular use, for years. It works great. :)
I use my Chicago Pneumatic air gun which I bought in 1970 when I was an auto mechanic. Still works great!
I’m going to be honest, many years ago after purchasing my home and needed my own tools. I thought the impact was already the replacement for the drill since it also had drill bits. I didn’t know an impact was never really meant for drilling but I used it anyway with no issues for almost 12 years! 😆 to this day that same Makita is still going strong as well as the batteries! I will be upgrading to a surge style now that you’ve let me know there’s a quieter option!
First great video. You had a lot of great information in it and I appreciate the time it must have taken. I went through a phase where i only went to impacts for a lot of what I did. And while all the pros you stated are correct, it doesn't come without cons as well. Noise being one of my main reasons I avoid them at time. I often times go to a cordless screwdriver like a 12v from Dewalt or Milwaukee because it combines some of the benefits of both. The more I use them, I realize they are a true dynamic duo and while there is a lot of overlap, neither one replaces the other.
Your video's are AWESOME!!!!! Thank You for your honest opinions as I'm a senior DIY on a typical tight budget and depend on folks like you for an honest review on products and projects before I spend our money!!!! Please don't stop doing these videos and you have my subscription!
I did the switch recently from drill to compact impact driver. I'm into Ryobi 18v platform. I got a nice set of Milwaukee hex shank drill bits. It's so quick changing bits. The tool is light and compact. I also have a hammer drill for concrete. But most jobs (wood & metal) I use my compact impact driver.
As others have said, I like having both, use the drill to do any pilot holes and then have the driver at hand with the driver bit, makes for less switching.
I'm always amazed by my impact. I was changing mower blades on my zero turn the other day and I couldn't loosen the blade bolts with a socket... Even when I engaged the 800 lb gorilla. I looked around for my breaker bar and couldn't find it so I grabbed my impact with very little hope. Took all of two seconds per bolt to spin those off.
I had the opposite happen to me. The impact driver did squat and I had to get the breaker bar. Impact drivers have too little torque and you would need a Impact wrench with the much higher torque.
@@adama1294 what impact driver were you using? My m18 has 225Nm does most things
See, that’s the problem. That’s not really what an impact DRIVER is made for. That’s the job of an impact WRENCH (or gun)
Hell yea! Journeyman Electrician here. Compact size and wont break your FN wrist if it catches something. 90% of time way to go. Only time I use a drill any more is for "real" drilling such as through something sturdier than a 2x4 or, the quick attachment on the impact chuck wont take the particular bit I need. I got a old Dewalt I carry around in my walk around tool bag. Good for 90 % of what I need and small/light enough to not be a bother. If I need a real drill, I have one, I'll walk back to the truck and get it. But it's not often.
Same here, Texas sparky, too. I’m a maintenance electrician now and I carry my impact on my utility cart at all times with a Phillips, flathead, Robertson, 5/16 & 3/8 hex bits. The majority of the time that’s all I need. On the rare occasion I have to get my drill out of the truck, it’s usually to drill a hole with my step bit.
The awesome part of all these bit’s being manufactured for impact drivers have been awesome for bit and brace fans. No long have to look for ancient drill bits. These work great in my Braces.
I was doing 2 acres of privacy fence with my wife, and she absolutely loved the Ryobi impact compared to the drill we had at the time. So, I got her a new DeWalt Atomic since she was nodding yes to spending the money at the time. I use it for everything now.
My wife said my drill/driver is not working very well so she suggested I see a doctor about it.
So I took my drill/driver to the doctor and the doctor got confused.
Go figure.
Not for her birthday 🎂 I hope? 😊
Impact drivers are for driving screws in, drills are for drilling holes and installing certain types of screws. Impact drivers should generally not be used for drilling holes, installing drywall screws, or doing pocket holes.
Did you not watch the video? Milwaukee and others are making drill bits specifically designed and tested with impact drivers in mind.
You took me to school.
I received an impact driver and the drill set for Christmas and I was unsure about my impact unit.
Thank you for educating me, so I had to subscribe, Continued success.
Got my 1st combo kit about 6 yrs ago. Makita. The impact driver became my go to tool. The drill is just about my token pilot hole drill. I bought another impact driver as a backup in case something happens to it. Its smaller and more powerful. Getting the feel of its power and control prevents over doing with it.
I have purchased a Ryobi 18v Brushless drill and impact driver combo. Currently I am using both. Impact drivers are new to me, so i am still learning how it works and what it does and doesn’t do. I find I am liking the impact driver for removing screws and nuts, but I like the drill more for drilling holes and installing screws. I have better speed and power control with the drill, but the hammer of the impact driver works better for jarring loose removing old screws and bolts.
Another tip: To drill a fast hole in drywall to use the 3/16 blue plastic anchors in, use your phillips #2 bit. It works fine. Perhaps it might even be able to work as a countersink bit on soft wood.
I usually use a similar method on drywall-just a Phillips screwdriver.
Great video. One caution to add: don’t use an impact on machine screws or threaded inserts. They will cross thread and you will have a bad day.
Or be very gentle. On sensitive stuff, i like to tighten slowly till i hear the motor whine because it can't turn with the power i gave it. Little to no impacting unless removing the screws.
@@jsmith5443 hmmm. have you seen impact drills being used on factories building motherboards and the likes?
I have Bosh twins. I use the drill for drilling the holes and the impact driver for the screws. This works great.
This video missed almost ALL of the reasons I love impacts. There's the lightning fast bit changes with NO SLIPPING from failing to fully tighten the chuck, the short neck making it easy to get into small spaces, the impacts easily hammering drill bits through tough materials (knots, metal spurs, etc) where a drill just gets snagged and stuck, driving even damaged phillips screws instead of camm'ing it out, NEVER burning out a motor because your drill bit got stuck, and much more. Never twisting-off your wrist is one of the big benefits, too.
Got my first cordless impact driver a decade ago and haven't wanted to touch a drill since. I knew it was exactly the improvement over a drill that I wanted the moment I saw one, and only the noise issue has ever given me a moment's pause. To ensure I wouldn't also need a drill, I immediately purchased a chuck that fits the impact (for the rare round drill bits I still need--or twisting wiring harnesses together), bought a few full sets of (impact) drill bits (NOT the soft, dull and off-kilter Harbor Freight junk!), and a couple extensions (rigid and flexible/swivel).
I love Milwaukee stuff. Expensive for a DIYer, but they seem to put a little more attention to detail in their products and innovate a bit more quality of life features than the other brands you can easily find in stores.
They are a consistent top three on Project Farm's TH-cam page.
One thing I wish the Milwaukee would do is use the same LED light placement as the DeWalt system. Having 1 light placed underneath the chuck doesn't illuminate as well as the 3 lights placed around it like DeWalt. You get a shadow with the Milwaukee.
I only buy crap on sale so I have a mix of Milwaukee, DeWalt and Porter Cable. All of them work great, no real favorite.
@@LiL13izzy7same here their light placement sucks
So true! My last three “drill” purchases have been impact drivers. Easier to load bits into as well! I was worried you meant you no longer needed a tool to drill anymore!
I have owned DeWalt corded and cordless tools most of my life. 20v is my choice. I've noticed myself doing the same thing as the original poster over the last couple of years. Then I bought my wife a DeWalt 12v impact because I saw an HVAC tech at work using one and checked it out. Now I've started using it because it's smaller and gets into tight places easier.😎
Anniversary present? That's so sweet. Lasts longer than flowers.
@@chethammer yep. 😎
Good video...but I'll keepe cordless drills as I have often noticed using a drill bit set with hex ends to fit my nice impact driver wobble a bit too much. Sometimes if it's a precise hole that's needed. Impact drill bits don't cut it. Thx for letting me share and keep making great vids 😺👍😎
Drill is most used in my collections, both 12v and 20v. I have to often work in public spaces and offices, and noise is a consideration. I also prefer the drill for its transmission and torque settings. I can always tell if someone's used an impact with hex fasteners, and the threads are strung out or cross threaded because they got a bad bite and just kept hammering it through.
I have everything as a professional contractor. I purchased a impact driver drill chuck and it is a great feature!
This is where i was at about 14 years ago when the first bosch battery powered impact driver came out. been using one ever since
5 stars for this video Nils. Great production, excellent editing, perfect content. Nice job my friend. As for me, I bought my first impact driver probably about 15 years ago. It was a Makita and I still have it. Noisy little thing. Thanks for telling us about the new breed of quieter hydraulic surge drivers. Keep up the great work!
I find your videos to be highly informative and well produced. You convey the right amount of information without being overly verbose. I learn something each and every time and am glad to benefit from your experience.
Glad to have subscribed.
Absolutely agree.👍🏽☺️
I like how your splash screen drew me in, like clickbait. Except, no clickbait here. Nice informative video! I knew little about impact drivers. Thank you.
I switched to impact then back to regular drill. Mainly because Of the noise of the impact but also a drill is faster driving screws
Agreed! I have a Bosch 12 volt impact driver that I use more than anything else, and I have plenty of other options I could reach for. Great little compact tool!
I have the Bosch 12v drill and the flex click. I use them all the time as well. Especially doing doors or cabinet hardware. I have a 12v Makita and 2 18v Makita also
I use my Milwaukee M12 impact more than anything I own. I own a lot of M12 and M18 tools.
I use both my VSR drill and my impact/vsr drill. The impact function with a torque stick is spectacular for installing lug nuts.
Same here. I got an impact driver for screws and drilling small holes. Then I also own an SDS cordless drill for drilling in stone and concrete. The thing is, my combo drill broke and now I'm looking for a new one for the few occasions I want to drill in metal or larger holes in wood.
Another very important and basic thing about the impact driver vs drill is that it is much shorter - allowing you to maneuver into tight spaces - something I encountered while building kitchen cabinets and all the various inserts
The Bosch 4-1. 12vdc or now called the Chamaeleon. It’s the multi-tool for small drills.
That's true, but then most manufacturers downsized their drills so that wasn't as much of an issue. My 1/2" Milwaukee looks like a toy compared to my old pro Makita 1/2". And as said, there are specialty reachable drills now made for close quarters.
To easy to over torque screws using the driver, I'll stick to the drill with a clutch when building furniture and cabinets.
@@Mantis858585 That's true. But as also said, the driver is small and can get into tight spaces. My Makita drill is huge and I find I use it more for drilling and as a hammer drill. I use the driver for almost all fasteners unless it's critical not to over-tighten and then I'll finish by hand.
@@TheReal1953 yeah, I want to buy the milwaukee drill driver 4 in 1, seems like the best of both worlds.
I've found myself in a very similar situation. I got an impact drill because the regular drill often came up short on power. Not only is it more convenient due to size and weight, but I was surprised to find myself using it more and more, even for jobs a drill would do just fine, because the drill may some times be too little, but the impact drill is rarely too much, which I thought would be the case. Depends on the type of work but surprisingly impact drills can be used for a lot more than just lug nuts and heavy duty work.
Yep. I am with you. Barely use drill, but very useful for hammer drilling concrete.
I bought an impact driver because it was on sale at a good price but didn't know what I had so never used it. I'm getting it out now. Thanks.
You should check out the Milwaukee Screwdriver (2402-20) and the Installation Drill/Driver (2505-20). The screwdriver is like the impact and drill had a baby. It's got the 1/4" bit holder of an impact, with the adjustable clutch of a drill. With no impact, it's quiet, light and perfect for electric/mechanic work. The instillation drill/driver has a interchangeable head, you can have a hex bit holder or drill clutch. It also has a right angle and offset adapter for tight spaces.
Note: Dewalt and Bosch (and probably others) have similar to the Milwaukee screwdriver, and maybe the insulation drill/drive. I recommend Milwaukee because you already have the batteries.
YES!!!!! I use the Dewalt 12V Brushless 601. But same deal. My drill/impact get little use once I tried the 12V Screwdrivers. The M12 Surge is my next step up.
@@J.Wick. Yes the DCF601 and DCD703 are really handy.
informative on impact drivers. I've been thinking about getting one and this has cleared up a lot of info. Thanks for presenting !
This is a very good presentation. I first read about the impact driver concept more than 20 years ago in Fine Homebuilding magazine (and I'm not even a builder). I don't "need" one but . . . I'd rather have it just in case I "might" need one.
I love the quick bit changing that an impact driver gives you. So much quicker and easier than a drill chuck.
You can buy a quick change adapter for $5.
@@SM-ok3sz yeah but they suck.
Yeah I rarely use my portable drill over the portable impact driver. If it’s something that specifically needs a lot of sustained torque, like a six inch hole saw bit drilling hardwood or MDF, I need a corded drill or drill press anyway. The cordless drill is worse than the cordless impact driver at flexibility and worse than the corded drill at power.
What an interesting place to find a comment from TayZonday! Cheers.
Yeah I’ve tried using my 18v Milwaukees for rough in’s and it’s just not powerful enough. I’ve sent 3 back before my warranty was up. I still have to have it for drilling water line holes & drilling through tile or brick but as much as I absolutely hate breaking out the hole hawg I don’t have a choice. I can’t wait till a one handed drill can drill 2” holes over and over and over again without burning up.
Yeah except saying the word "drill" is such an umbrella term. Drills vary drastically. My drill is more powerfull than my impact. But i dont expect a diyer to understand that
Do you look away to drill? 🤣
You making speaker boxes with a hole saw that big?
pro tip: Replace your impact driver with the Ridgid 3/8 subcompact impact wrench and a 1/4 hex holder. Additionally, get a 1/4 drive, 1/4 hex socket holder. It works much better than the regular impact driver and you can drive sockets also. In fact, I've had times where I needed to drive construction screws but needed an extension. Socket extensions were just the thing.
That’s a good tip. I did that for my craftsman but it just feels slower than my driver
I recently started using my impact after my drill chuck seized up and started having issues. I found the experience so much better that I’ve also been using it more and more
I totally agree with you. I use my impact to do all work. I use drill as a chuck to hold and buff / sand small parts. Also at times i do use my traditional drills. But i have a Black and Decker multitool evo model and the drill chuck is keyless. I can never get the circular shank drills fastened properly. I wish it had a locking chuck.
You really need both.
For example with wood, i use the drill to predill holes, and then i grab the impact and drive screws.
About the kickback, you can drill with the clutch, to protect your wrist.
You need a light drill, like the DCD796 or its sucessor, the DCD805.
I have both the DCD796 and the DCD999, but the DCD999 is too heavy for everyday use.
Check out the DCD805.
Very impactful video!
I’ll show myself out…
...please do, it's for the best. 😅
thank you for laying this out so clearly . I understand now
Very useful video, didn't know that impact drivers were so versatile, nor that there were special drill bits. Fantastic to hear that you are doing so many projects, practise makes perfect. Thank you.
Impact drivers are versatile but drills are better for stuff that requires a light touch and precision. Impact drivers (mine, at least) don't allow for really precise power control at lower power levels, and also kick into "impact mode" at higher torque levels where the impacts potentially hurt (or help!) your ability to precisely control the bit.
I have the Ridgid line of cordless drills and really enjoy their reliability, function and usefulness. Also have one impact in this line but really, they are so useful that to me they are NOT becoming obsolete.
Those impact bits seem like a solution to a problem that only exists if you use the wrong tool, in this case an impact for drilling.
Working as a electrician doing alot of commercial offices cordless drill is still a must for step bits and hole saws
i use the BOSCH impact driver with multiple setting/modes 123 or AB. love it, compact and lightweight.
As a pro who uses impacts daily... I only really find myself reaching for my drill when it comes to hole saws and mixing mud and cement. Most drill bits sized holes I just use one of my impacts, unless its a long extension space bit or something because an impact will snap those off.
As an electrician (actually a coop student) me and my peers use the impact driver way more when working. I just want to note it’s not the diy people it’s just about everyone I imagine.
As an electrician for the last 25 years, I barely use the impact driver unless I’m installing small self drilling screws.
I never though about using drill bits with my impact driver. Thanks! I'm going to have to play with this now.
Thanks for the education on impact drivers. I do find the small drills with the hex end wobble and hence will have the bit jump off the mark. Plus they break more often than when you use the same small size in a drill. I have some of the drill/bit sets from Milwaukee with the torsion feature but didn't realize that feature was there. I will use them more now that I know - thanks
Surprised you didn't mention the add on chucks that fit into a Impact driver to handle bits without a hex shaft. Great video and channel. Thanks
It’s just what BigMo said. I have a chuck that fits into my impact but it’s so heavy and long that I’d rather use my drill in that scenario.
Yuck. I tried one of those once and the impact sxruon got thr chuck so right it was so right I had to put it in a vise to loosen it. I can't say I feel those are a good option. Just my 2 cents.
I'm just saying that I keep an add-on-chuck with my impact driver for those occasions when my drill is not handy and I need to drill a hole. Not all work is fine and super accurate. It has been most appreciated on many occasions. Over and out!
@@robthorne9939 That's when you just have the drill instead. Modern compact drills are good for around 50 ft lbs, plenty for what they're intended for, before the better fastener is one with a hex head and then you use an impact wrench instead.
@@LRN2DIY keep the drill impacters are great but drill's are needed 👍
This is an incredibly helpful tool video. Nobody has as many drills, drivers, or even experience as you do. I admit to not having appreciated my impact driver enough, but will not most certainly change my tune! Also, I was not aware of the advanced features of some of the newer drivers. Phenomenal video, bro! You have a gift for crystal clear explanations and demonstrations. Thanks!
PS: In many years of using youtube, I had never subscribed to anyone's channel. --- But I subscribed to this one!!!
I worked in a sheet metal shop for a while and the impact driver was used for all our heavy tapping as well as driving nuts and bolts with a 3/8 adapter into sockets. Way better than any drill💪
I had been planning on picking up a Cordless Drill, then had decided on an impact driver; but had been worried about the sheer amount of noise it makes. I had never heard of a _Pulse Driver._ This looks like a game changer, and I would have been pretty upset to learn about it _after_ I had to buy Gen 2 AirPod Pros with better noise cancellation to manage hearing that impact driver sound all day. Thank you.
I was thinking the same thing for a while, that I'd rather just use my impact for everything. I went on like this for a few months during a large project, and didn't even realize that I was actually getting annoyed with how the impact was driving some crews in situations where I needed to be a little more delicate or careful. I "tried" my normal drill again, and it made everything so much easier. I'm not the one to explain what the reasons actually are, because I don't know for sure, but I'm back to using my regular drill in most drilling and driving situations unless an impact drill is *actually* needed.
The way I understand it is Impacts are hammering the bit where a drill is rotating
The problem with impact drivers, is that they weaken over time. I used one for a whole project with self tapping metal screws which was also very loud and noisy. After that it was much much weaker. I went back to the drill (way less noise) and it didn't become weaker at all after a huge project. And I enjoy way less noise.
It has more moving parts so that makes sense.
I just bought an Ozito Brushless Drill..now I am tempted to buy a brushless Ozito Impact Driver…the power of persuasion of the internet is redefining the markets …Need v Want 😊
I recently bought the Mikita set. The new black model with the 2.5 Ah. batteries. This is small light weight and Powerfull. The drill is used for drilling pilot holes and many other things, while the impact drives so many different screws. There is So many new fasteners coming out with different materials that making these power tools a complement to the tools needed.
Nah, my drill has too big a spot in my heart. I like the convenience of being able to grab one make my holes then grab the other and knock everything in. But new tech for impacts is quite nice and I do tend to use impact drill bits in my drill just because they come in the big kits and I’m not going to not use them!
As an older single female( 60's) & a homeowner, I appreciate the way you present your content. I also like that you let us know that your video was not "sponsored" by any company. Keep up the good work!
Yes, you have enough drills and I agreed with you, very good video...Thanks
Countersink bits, reamers and hole saws all need a real drill. Drilling through steel with an impact usually doesn't go so well. Drilling through multiple layers or chasing holes usually works better with a real drill rather than an impact which can punch a hole next to the one you were trying to chase.
Click Bait!!!!!!!!!
Good info. Thank you for sharing. Have a blessed day.
I have the same for Ridgid tools, the 2 larger and 2 smaller drill/driver. I love the new sub compact driver, and the new smaller drill seems to actually have more power than the full size at times.
The only thing lost in the small version is no hammer, so I still break out the large drill often to drill mason.
I still find myself using the drill/driver often simply to reduce bit changes on the driver. The phillips driver bit for the most part has a permanent home, but then again that is a big advantage not quite mentioned directly is that changing bits on the driver is so much faster and easier.
I am not sure if I have messed up my larger drill, or its by design but I have to set a bit many times to get it straight.
i had to change the tires on my twin axle 14k trailer and all the lugs had paint on them. i grabbed my Hart impact driver (the one you show) and it hammered every lug to 110 lbs! And yes, i know it is not for that, but it worked... btw, my lugs require 120lbs of tq so i confirmed it with my tq wrench... incredible tools... completely agree with you!
Still using my 2 Black and Decker drills that I bought in the 1970's :-) Still work fine!
I have a combination HOME DIY hammer drill from Black&Decker since 1984. Still in like-new condition. Superb longevity,
I too am a HUGE fan of my 1/4" impact driver! However, I find that I am going through my batteries far faster than my dedicated drill. SO I now use them in combination - drill only for drilling holes and the impact driver for...you guessed it driving screws/fasteners.
I didn't realize it but it's happened to me too my impact has become an every case scenario kinda thing
I think it's fun to use those big old metal corded drill for driving screws sometimes drill when I just tring to take it easy they just feel it give me time to think about life and ultimately double check my work
I have the same Ridgid setup as you, loving it so far