Thank you so much for sharing this method of Paracord joining, it’s worth the extra effort. I always felt that my melting joining weren’t strong enough and always prefer giving the best quality in whatever I make.
It's actually not even very much extra effort, if instead of trying to stuff each end through the hole, you take a small pair of needle-nose pliers grab the opposite end, and pull it through, instead. Literally hassle-free, and significantly more sturdy
There are two additional steps that make this much much easier. Learning - I tried this as shown - and was never able to get it to go through no matter how much I tried to melt and smooth. First step is - when you melt the ends of the outer cord to prevent fraying - quickly insert a large fib into it so it cools enlarged. Second, on the fib/needle end - cut a small amount of inner cord, melt the end of the outer to completely fit into a sharp, medium/smaller fib. Then do the steps in the video. The cords will slide right into each other. After that - take your lighter to heat the inner ends - roller them smaller between your fingers. Awesome joint.
I just received a pair of threading needles this week, I was never satisfied with just melting the ends together. I successfully made this splice on my first try thanks to your video!
I've been taking super glue gel and putting it in between two sections that are slightly overlapped (3/16 at most) and then pressing them together with vice grip c-clamps with the oval pads. 60 to 90 seconds and I'm done. It works great and I have never had them fail while tightening a knot. I only do this when I'm connecting two pieces that are going to be used for decorative use and if the edges don't align I trim them up with scissors. I also know when I get a good weld because I can see the gel pressed completely through the cordage. The part where the sections are joined is flat but its so small and hardly ever lands on an exposed area. When it does I am the only person who ever notices it. I like this method though and I will have to try it.
Just use the spike to poke the hole, and use a small pair of needle-nose pliers the pull the strand through, instead. It's just as easy as the other method, and is legitimately the sturdiest method you can possibly used to join 2 pieces of paracord; as evidenced by the fact that our street no longer has random captives running around town, foolishly thinking that because they escaped the dungeon, they were home free
it is still stronger than melting the ends. a knot would be possible WAY stronger , a constrictor-like knot, BUT i think the point on this is to make a seemeingles joint, wich, with a knot, could restrict the cord from passing some kind of holes for example. But you are not wrong tho, is just a matteron where are you gonna use the joint..what for.
Nice technic, i used this when i was short on cord during a project. I made wrong calculations and i didnt want to start all over. So i put the needle in the opposite direction, cut the cord and put the needle in the normal way shown in this video. Thanks
hey Brother I want to tank you for the time you take those videos for people like who want to learn how to do the paracord projects and I have learned through you a few things THANKS keep the good work 👽👌👍✌
After cutting out the inner stand, insert the tip of the fid before searing the end with the lighter. This leaves the melted end open rather than melting it closed. Then this process is much easier. Also, don't cut out more inner strands than absolutely necessary. These are doubled for strength, and cutting out to much gives a weak spot. Also, do the insertion as close to the tips of the inner strands as possible.
This is a very late reply, I know, but the Jig Pro Shop sells what they call "Type 2" needles which are thinner than their regular stainless steel needles and are great for this method
What is the WLL (working load limit) on this type of splice? I have been a tree removal guy for many years, and as I understand kernmantle cordage, the inner strands, or core (kern) take the load, and the outer jacket (mantle) is simply to protect the inner core from abrasion, and not really take significant load. This may be a durable splice, but I don't see how it can take much load. Most knots reduce rope strength by 50%, and I think this would be even weaker than that. I was always taught that if the rope doesn't have to run through a pulley, a double fisherman's knot was your best connector. I suppose for decorative purposes it is fine, but if you ever intend to use the rope in an emergency situation, it could fail. Oh, and I think melting is just as suspect. Only a woven splice connecting the inner strands will maintain cordage integrity. I'm no splicing expert, but I have done a number of end, midline, and eye splices, and put thousands of pounds of load on them.
William thank you for taking the time to put together such a well thought out comment. The "Manny method" is much stronger than melting together two cords. Naturally a spliced rope is stronger, but here you only have two woven cords to work with. So I have so far not seen a better way to join two cords together. The bond is strong enough for most decorative purposes. Naturally using knots such as choker knots (fisherman's for example) can be even stronger, but it is also much bulkier. In any case, glad to chat with you, Mark
Thanks for the reply Mark. Love your videos, and have made several projects based on them. Doing a bit more research on tree rope, seems the Manny method has a few different manifestations, of sorts... but even high load-bearing ropes have eye-splices that are closer to the Manny method, than a traditional strand weave... I may just have to try it and put some weight on it to see. Thanks again!
I never got the impression this video was showing this for purposes of weight bearing. Anyone that would see this and think they should use it for weight bearing has more issues than just lack of common sense.
To increase the durability of the connection without making it bulkier, some Common Whipping could be done over the splice. Not sure how much it'll increase the load strength, but the splice would be better protected from wear.
If you expect heavy use (tugging or stretching), the kernel threads might bunch up along the inside of the cord, making the cord lumpy. To prevent that, before pulling them back inside after cutting them not quite so short, melt them together, and when threading the opposing line thru, stick the needle thru one side of the mantle & also thru the kernel, just behind the melt). this makes the joint a little bigger, but it cannot bunch up.
It's not so difficult it appears, however, where did you get such a "sharp" needle? I see your needle not so sharp perse but much smaller in diameter than I've found. It's just not happening with my fat bertha needles. Fixing to take a file to one.
Super slick, that for the tutorial! What can you do if one end is unavailable to thread through the other? Like a project that is nearly complete, but you're one foot short...
If you strip the inner core altogether, you have a flatter wrap for handles, reducing bulk. Still not load bearing. But I have swung from "inner stripped paracord" and it held just fine! I weigh just north of 150.
+Paracord guild Hi There,,, You do great work... Is there anyway to incorporate the core in the splice? Or,, what is the best way to splice paracord for strength ? Thanks and keep up the good work. ..
Since the inner cords are not joined, wouldn't that mean that the splice is very weak and prone to breaking if the cord is under stress? Also, since the inner cords are not secured at each end, wouldn't that cause an issue with the sheath sliding over the cords and severely compromising the the overall strength of the cord as a whole? Seems to me that if the inner cords are not connected at the splice then the paracord would not be trust worthy.
Hey! This is a method used to join paracord for decorative purposes. For practical/survival purposes you would not join paracord together this way, but use a sheet bend or a choke knot. This technique is used to make items such as bracelets and such. Mark
It would probably be good to put in the video title an description that this is for decoration only (I didn't know people used paracord). Also, in the video, the guy says it is "powerful", "very strong", etc. Which makes one think that it is a strong method to combine two ropes. It also looks similar to the weaving method that is used for the rope that doesn't have a core, and so for that rope, it doesn't diminish its strength at all...
Thank u very helpful. I made a bracelet using the melting method n got all the way to the end n it broke. I was devastated. .that Will never happen again thanks to u.
It looks great, but that join is the weakest part of the cord since the threads inside are not joined in any way. So any tear on the shell and the threads may/will come out leaving just the shell. Good only for crafts but for holding or safety it is not.
Paracord guild okay, thx still waiting for my paracord it's been 12/13 days if it doesn't come in the next 6 days I will file a disputed at the seller but it takes time from China mail, it's a valid buyer bye
You don't have a strong join though, because all you're connecting is the outer sheath of the paracord. The inner strands are just hanging loose inside the sheath. The sheath has a strength of only 300 pounds, so you've essentially weakened the paracord by nearly 50%. If you used a hot needle or an electric soldering tool to melt the inner cords to the outer sheath before you began, leaving a hole in the center to pass the other paracord through, I suspect the cord would retain much more of its original strength.
Thanks for the video. Looks great for decorative work. But for strength I get the impression that the cord is being weakened, as apprised to something like a reef knot.
+David Walsh The reef knot is stronger than this, but it is still one of the weakest knots you could use to join the ends of two strings/cords/ropes. Its breaking strength is only 45% that of the cord, but with relatively strong, slick cord this knot often slips before breakage anyway. If you need a secure but very simple knot to join ends (a "bend"), then at least try the overhand bend--simply put the two ends together as one, side by side and "pointed" in the same direction, and tie them both (as one) in an overhand knot (like the first knot you tie your shoes with), like so: th-cam.com/video/e46GXvdOJmI/w-d-xo.html While it's not very strong at only 50% cord strength, at least it's not prone to slipping. Another popular bend that may be slightly better (although it may loosen when unloaded) is the sheet bend: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheet_bend Much better is the popular butterfly bend used by many climbers--we're talking about 70-80% cord strength plus no slipping, jamming (can be deliberately untied relatively easily), or loosening: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butterfly_bend The double fisherman's knot (not the single version) may actually be very slightly stronger, but it's a pain to tie, in my opinion, and at the very least it takes longer. Probably better still, though, would be the zeppelin bend, which is similar to the butterfly bend: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zeppelin_bend None of these knots is super-hard to tie, and even if you're bad at knots, the overhand bend is super-easy, so there is no excuse to use a reef knot as a bend. It works OK as a binding knot (allowing you to tie objects together tight, or your shoelaces in slipped form), so use it for that, but not to join two cords. And whatever you do, don't use the granny knot for anything!
When pulling them through the other... Could you not just take out some inner cord from the other side and make it smaller and easier to go through the hole you make in the outside shell? The worst part I would think was the first 1 cm to get through.
Hey! If it works, you should use it. The simplest way is to get a sharp lacing needle. I have also struggled at first when I used nose pliers to pull the cord through. Mark
Chiming in here - I would say yes. But in order to do that, you might need to snip a small opening with scissors (so to create a hole for the cord to go through) & quickly melt around that so to prevent fraying.
Thank you, I just started paracord crafting and after making a bunch of mistake cuts this tutorial was invaluable!
Thank you so much for sharing this method of Paracord joining, it’s worth the extra effort. I always felt that my melting joining weren’t strong enough and always prefer giving the best quality in whatever I make.
It's actually not even very much extra effort, if instead of trying to stuff each end through the hole, you take a small pair of needle-nose pliers grab the opposite end, and pull it through, instead. Literally hassle-free, and significantly more sturdy
There are two additional steps that make this much much easier. Learning - I tried this as shown - and was never able to get it to go through no matter how much I tried to melt and smooth. First step is - when you melt the ends of the outer cord to prevent fraying - quickly insert a large fib into it so it cools enlarged. Second, on the fib/needle end - cut a small amount of inner cord, melt the end of the outer to completely fit into a sharp, medium/smaller fib. Then do the steps in the video. The cords will slide right into each other. After that - take your lighter to heat the inner ends - roller them smaller between your fingers. Awesome joint.
Jeffery Hansen Thank you!!! I was struggling and found your tips! This really makes it so much easier!
I just received a pair of threading needles this week, I was never satisfied with just melting the ends together. I successfully made this splice on my first try thanks to your video!
5:58
This is my new method of joining paracord. It’s the best!
Thank you very much!!! I will be using this method for years to come! Very cool method!
Thank you, brilliant way of joining two cords.
I tried this this morning. It's the best workout I've had in weeks! Omg...
Wrong video…. Lol
Beautifully done. Thank you for your instruction.
Wow... that is ingenious! It's such a simple concept yet it's so surprising!
I've been taking super glue gel and putting it in between two sections that are slightly overlapped (3/16 at most) and then pressing them together with vice grip c-clamps with the oval pads. 60 to 90 seconds and I'm done. It works great and I have never had them fail while tightening a knot. I only do this when I'm connecting two pieces that are going to be used for decorative use and if the edges don't align I trim them up with scissors. I also know when I get a good weld because I can see the gel pressed completely through the cordage. The part where the sections are joined is flat but its so small and hardly ever lands on an exposed area. When it does I am the only person who ever notices it. I like this method though and I will have to try it.
Just use the spike to poke the hole, and use a small pair of needle-nose pliers the pull the strand through, instead. It's just as easy as the other method, and is legitimately the sturdiest method you can possibly used to join 2 pieces of paracord; as evidenced by the fact that our street no longer has random captives running around town, foolishly thinking that because they escaped the dungeon, they were home free
Thank you for not putting music in the background.
David Pierce don't read my channel name
it is still stronger than melting the ends. a knot would be possible WAY stronger , a constrictor-like knot, BUT i think the point on this is to make a seemeingles joint, wich, with a knot, could restrict the cord from passing some kind of holes for example. But you are not wrong tho, is just a matteron where are you gonna use the joint..what for.
DPierce
Don't read my Profile picture your a fucking lozer
@@piccledboi8522 no you are.
Nice technic, i used this when i was short on cord during a project. I made wrong calculations and i didnt want to start all over. So i put the needle in the opposite direction, cut the cord and put the needle in the normal way shown in this video. Thanks
Thank you for explaining, will give it a try
Wow! Thank you! I do want my products to be quality and this adds yet another dimension of neatness to my work.
Hey!
Indeed it does, I use it a ton myself!
Mark
Saaaame!!
Thanks for sharing the method I knew was out there but I hadn't found in these years before now. Ok, so I'm a slow learner. LOL!
I hope it serves you well!
Often learning slow means you are building a solid base of knowledge!
Mark
Thx, Mark. I appreciate the optimistic input. ☺
What is the outer diameter of your lacing needle?
Thank you i been looking for this!!!
hey Brother I want to tank you for the time you take those videos for people like who want to learn how to do the paracord projects and I have learned through you a few things THANKS keep the good work 👽👌👍✌
Hey!
Thank you for the inspiring comment!
Mark
Vozli
Absolutely brilliant 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Can you use the manny method on 1 cord to make a cord circular instead of melting of knotting it together?
Laura Benevelli, i am looking for the same, i have tried but can't figure it out.
Thank you for posting this as I have been wanting to learn this method for sometime no. Now time to go make some stuff
Muito legal, qual o nome desta ferramenta que você usa? como posso conseguir? existe de várias bitolas?
Having a hard time getting the insertion end of the cord to stay in the needle well enough to feed it through. Any suggestions
Just subscribed. Thanks & Godspeed.
After cutting out the inner stand, insert the tip of the fid before searing the end with the lighter. This leaves the melted end open rather than melting it closed. Then this process is much easier.
Also, don't cut out more inner strands than absolutely necessary. These are doubled for strength, and cutting out to much gives a weak spot. Also, do the insertion as close to the tips of the inner strands as possible.
Got it thank you. Where can I get sharper pointed needles? Mine are stainless steel and came with my Jig Pro Shop Knotters Tool
This is a very late reply, I know, but the Jig Pro Shop sells what they call "Type 2" needles which are thinner than their regular stainless steel needles and are great for this method
EXCELLENT IDEA! Thanks for a fine presentation.
Thanks for this
I did it!
What is the WLL (working load limit) on this type of splice? I have been a tree removal guy for many years, and as I understand kernmantle cordage, the inner strands, or core (kern) take the load, and the outer jacket (mantle) is simply to protect the inner core from abrasion, and not really take significant load. This may be a durable splice, but I don't see how it can take much load. Most knots reduce rope strength by 50%, and I think this would be even weaker than that. I was always taught that if the rope doesn't have to run through a pulley, a double fisherman's knot was your best connector. I suppose for decorative purposes it is fine, but if you ever intend to use the rope in an emergency situation, it could fail. Oh, and I think melting is just as suspect. Only a woven splice connecting the inner strands will maintain cordage integrity. I'm no splicing expert, but I have done a number of end, midline, and eye splices, and put thousands of pounds of load on them.
William thank you for taking the time to put together such a well thought out comment.
The "Manny method" is much stronger than melting together two cords. Naturally a spliced rope is stronger, but here you only have two woven cords to work with. So I have so far not seen a better way to join two cords together.
The bond is strong enough for most decorative purposes. Naturally using knots such as choker knots (fisherman's for example) can be even stronger, but it is also much bulkier.
In any case, glad to chat with you,
Mark
Thanks for the reply Mark. Love your videos, and have made several projects based on them. Doing a bit more research on tree rope, seems the Manny method has a few different manifestations, of sorts... but even high load-bearing ropes have eye-splices that are closer to the Manny method, than a traditional strand weave... I may just have to try it and put some weight on it to see. Thanks again!
I never got the impression this video was showing this for purposes of weight bearing. Anyone that would see this and think they should use it for weight bearing has more issues than just lack of common sense.
To increase the durability of the connection without making it bulkier, some Common Whipping could be done over the splice. Not sure how much it'll increase the load strength, but the splice would be better protected from wear.
not only that... by using this, the core is useless as all the load is now on the jacket as the end of the core isn't connected to anything.
The integrity of the cord is compromised with the internals not connected.
If you expect heavy use (tugging or stretching), the kernel threads might bunch up along the inside of the cord, making the cord lumpy. To prevent that, before pulling them back inside after cutting them not quite so short, melt them together, and when threading the opposing line thru, stick the needle thru one side of the mantle & also thru the kernel, just behind the melt). this makes the joint a little bigger, but it cannot bunch up.
thank you sir. I don't have that needle never used it or seen it. I'll find one. god bless
They are easy to make. See www.paracordguild.com/how-make-paracord-fid/
It's not so difficult it appears, however, where did you get such a "sharp" needle? I see your needle not so sharp perse but much smaller in diameter than I've found. It's just not happening with my fat bertha needles. Fixing to take a file to one.
Ty for sharing.
This method is great! Could u use a knitting needle if it doesn't have a bulky end and attach the cord via constrictor knot? Great vid
great work
What can I use instead of a lacing needle
You could use thin pliers or hemostats to pull the ends through. Or melt the ends onto a nail. Just a few ideas, I hope these help!
How do you make it a LOOP tho...
Hi! Great tutorial! Just wondering where you got the very sharp lacing needles?
Amazon.com
Ebay too
Super slick, that for the tutorial!
What can you do if one end is unavailable to thread through the other? Like a project that is nearly complete, but you're one foot short...
I need this answer as well. I am thinking that you might not be able to use this method in this situation.
Good job
I wish I had more thumbs up for this!!!!!
Where can I get that pointed FIB. Link please.
The Navy has been using this method for years
is there any way to attach 3 pieces together
Wow ty for sharing with us!
Is there a way to use this for one color strand to close a 4fr loop ? Thank you.
Great video! Can't wait to use this!
How can I use this to finish a project at the end?
Great tutorial. Thank you for your valuable information, and yes I agree this is going to come in handy again thank you.
Thanks so much! I was able to do it because of you!!
Cool thanks for the tutilage my friend I'm sick of burning my fingers when I wanna join 2 cords.
Great tutorial as usual!
If you strip the inner core altogether, you have a flatter wrap for handles, reducing bulk. Still not load bearing. But I have swung from "inner stripped paracord" and it held just fine! I weigh just north of 150.
Thanks for your work doing this video...its very useful.
does it work for , like when you realize your short on cordage
This was very helpful, Thanks so much
Well done, as always, Marko!
This is great! What brand of lacing needle is that, link to buy please.
Shell is joined, what about the core?
Hey!
The core is not joined using this method.
The sheath is plenty strong though, so it will hold the cords together securely.
Mark
+Paracord guild
Hi There,,, You do great work...
Is there anyway to incorporate the core in the splice?
Or,, what is the best way to splice paracord for strength ?
Thanks and keep up the good work. ..
The core isn't joined in the weak old melting process. This is head & shoulders above that process.
Thanks, this'll really come in handy!
A lot of you are missing the fact that he SAID in the title it's for "decorative" use, not load bearing!
jimmy knox 5:47 "and with this you have a very very strong bond that won't break up on you"
People can be bad about listening an reading. They stop after the first sentence and miss everything. 😹😹😹
Since the inner cords are not joined, wouldn't that mean that the splice is very weak and prone to breaking if the cord is under stress? Also, since the inner cords are not secured at each end, wouldn't that cause an issue with the sheath sliding over the cords and severely compromising the the overall strength of the cord as a whole? Seems to me that if the inner cords are not connected at the splice then the paracord would not be trust worthy.
Hey!
This is a method used to join paracord for decorative purposes. For practical/survival purposes you would not join paracord together this way, but use a sheet bend or a choke knot. This technique is used to make items such as bracelets and such.
Mark
Ah, makes sense now. This looks good, but I was wondering why go through all that effort and not simply tie a knot.
It would probably be good to put in the video title an description that this is for decoration only (I didn't know people used paracord).
Also, in the video, the guy says it is "powerful", "very strong", etc. Which makes one think that it is a strong method to combine two ropes.
It also looks similar to the weaving method that is used for the rope that doesn't have a core, and so for that rope, it doesn't diminish its strength at all...
one word for you
DECORATIVE
Yes - I'm glad to see they took my advice and updated the title. That didn't used to be there...
Thank u very helpful. I made a bracelet using the melting method n got all the way to the end n it broke. I was devastated. .that Will never happen again thanks to u.
It looks great, but that join is the weakest part of the cord since the threads inside are not joined in any way. So any tear on the shell and the threads may/will come out leaving just the shell. Good only for crafts but for holding or safety it is not.
Great work please can you share a link to where you can find a sharp lacing Needle can not find one anywhere thanks
www.paradisefibers.com/products/hiyahiya-12inch-sharp-steel-circular-needle?gclid=CjwKEAjwvMnJBRCO2NSu-Puc6AUSJAAf-OSU-6w5HaPO_F398-ujxvjs_uisu12sD7YViu0T7Zmg9hoCPkLw_wcB
well done, thank you
What's the name of that spike?
really great tutorial, thank you!
this is actually awesome!
great video! what's the name of the needle ad where can I buy one?
lacing needle
]
Looks way better then just putting two ends together but after I put them together and pull the slack so u melt them and fuse them into one?
Hey!
I do very little melting, maybe just on any small frayed strands.
Mark
Paracord guild okay, thx still waiting for my paracord it's been 12/13 days if it doesn't come in the next 6 days I will file a disputed at the seller but it takes time from China mail, it's a valid buyer bye
Btw
You don't have a strong join though, because all you're connecting is the outer sheath of the paracord. The inner strands are just hanging loose inside the sheath. The sheath has a strength of only 300 pounds, so you've essentially weakened the paracord by nearly 50%. If you used a hot needle or an electric soldering tool to melt the inner cords to the outer sheath before you began, leaving a hole in the center to pass the other paracord through, I suspect the cord would retain much more of its original strength.
how do you look for that needle in amazon?
Search for paracord fids!
muy lindo tu proyecto gracias
That's wayyy better than how I was doing it.
Well said. I had so many burns for no good reason.
I finally got it. It’s not as easy as it looks maybe use a smaller fid or modify your fid slightly.
thank you
Can this work with several scrap pieces of paracord? 08/10 / 23
what if i dont have lacing needle?
I like the needle. I have been using cyanoacrylate and sanding the tip.
these needles are perfect for this: extremepara.com/tools/lacing-needles-fids/nickel-plated-lacing-needles
ciao ma se voglio unire due paracord da 100 sarebbe da 1,9cm come bisogna fare?
Thank you were do you get your needles
eBay - 2x8.99 or 4x14.99
Thank you! I like this procedure I don't mind a little extra work. The outcome is all that matters. Where can I find a needle like that?
brilliant
GREAT, thank you.
outstanding work.
Thanks for showing this
This is good to know. Thank you 😊
Nice tuto
I do some projects where I am changing color part way through and neither end is available. Is there any variation of this that would work?
Thanks for the video. Looks great for decorative work.
But for strength I get the impression that the cord is being weakened, as apprised to something like a reef knot.
+David Walsh The reef knot is stronger than this, but it is still one of the weakest knots you could use to join the ends of two strings/cords/ropes. Its breaking strength is only 45% that of the cord, but with relatively strong, slick cord this knot often slips before breakage anyway. If you need a secure but very simple knot to join ends (a "bend"), then at least try the overhand bend--simply put the two ends together as one, side by side and "pointed" in the same direction, and tie them both (as one) in an overhand knot (like the first knot you tie your shoes with), like so:
th-cam.com/video/e46GXvdOJmI/w-d-xo.html
While it's not very strong at only 50% cord strength, at least it's not prone to slipping. Another popular bend that may be slightly better (although it may loosen when unloaded) is the sheet bend:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheet_bend
Much better is the popular butterfly bend used by many climbers--we're talking about 70-80% cord strength plus no slipping, jamming (can be deliberately untied relatively easily), or loosening:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butterfly_bend
The double fisherman's knot (not the single version) may actually be very slightly stronger, but it's a pain to tie, in my opinion, and at the very least it takes longer. Probably better still, though, would be the zeppelin bend, which is similar to the butterfly bend:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zeppelin_bend
None of these knots is super-hard to tie, and even if you're bad at knots, the overhand bend is super-easy, so there is no excuse to use a reef knot as a bend. It works OK as a binding knot (allowing you to tie objects together tight, or your shoelaces in slipped form), so use it for that, but not to join two cords. And whatever you do, don't use the granny knot for anything!
When pulling them through the other... Could you not just take out some inner cord from the other side and make it smaller and easier to go through the hole you make in the outside shell? The worst part I would think was the first 1 cm to get through.
Hey!
If it works, you should use it. The simplest way is to get a sharp lacing needle. I have also struggled at first when I used nose pliers to pull the cord through.
Mark
Chiming in here - I would say yes. But in order to do that, you might need to snip a small opening with scissors (so to create a hole for the cord to go through) & quickly melt around that so to prevent fraying.
Thor should’ve brought this VERY POWERFUL TOOL, Thanos wouldn’t have stood a chance.
Awesome, thank you!
this is perfect for two colored paracord bracelets.
Indeed!
No dip shurlock
Chris Baker I like to use it for joining two cords of the same color... 😀😀😀
Try doing it with four different colors in a square pattern. I wonder how that would look after it pulled tight.
what if i want to use a single cord and join the ends to make a circle, is there a way to do this?
Wish I'd thought to make a video!
excellent ! thanks a lot !
Bir bakıma sancak bağı bağlantısı oldu sankş👏👏👏🙏🙏👍👍🇹🇷süpper
I learn something new!!!
Ducks have a corkscrew penis. Now you learned two new things. Google a video of it, I dare you.