Pretty nice unit. Personally I don't think the user interface is really a problem because setting the profiles is not something you do regularly. To me the biggest downside would be the artificial temperature indicator.
They could have also put some secondary labels in smaller text on the buttons, which would go some way to solving the menu problems. Seems like they prioritised aesthetics over usability.
What a coincidence! Just a couple hours ago I unboxed and tested the very same unit at work. Mine had, however, a CE sticker since I got it from the official EU distributor for Quick. Now, a few words on the missing features: according to the sales rep I talked to, and the documentation he provided to me, the model with the multi zone heating, a touch screen, and all the connectivity (useless in my opinion) is the WAY more expensive Quick TR1300. The sales rep literally said to me that the TR1300A is the better choice and better bang for the buck. Personally I like the interface, because my base unit is on a shelf above the work bench and there is not a lot of strain on the hand piece. One thing I would recommend to everyone is to get the 45 degree nozzle. This unit is really good!
I also have mine sitting slightly high up off the bench which works well. It's frustratingly close to being a great machine - a slightly longer hose, higher upper limit on airflow and a few UI tweaks and it would be there.
METCAL stuff is so damn nice. Every time I use a METCAL piece of kit it just flat out works and works extremely well. Using METCAL is like lounging in your favorite chair…..comfortable and well designed. Great review.
I’d really like to see him do a review of the Hakko FX-100, which uses Metcal’s induction technology. I ponied up the bucks for it and have been using it for a couple of years. There was a thread online where a few guys bought the Metcal, JBC and the Hakko to do a comparison. It was either on DIYAudio or eevblog. Anyways they all preferred the curie point induction heating of the Metcal and Hakko better. When using two hand pieces on the Metcal they found the Hakko to have more power, but when using one and allowing it the full 80 watts the Metcal could wet a ground plane slightly faster, though they found the 80 watt Metcal and Hakko to be equal when using the FX-100 turbo mode. The Hakko ended up winning, not by a huge margin, because of less expensive tips and form and function. You need a big tip to take that 80 watts though. Still I’d really love to see a video on this channel and get his thoughts since he’s a big Metcal user and he never really seems biased in his reviews. I would never give it up, I’m in love with this iron. Enough so that I bought a dozen of each of my favorite tips in case they skyrocket in price or go away. I also grabbed the mini hand piece and several micro tips. Sadly the micro tips are quite a bit more expensive. They are tiny though. If I came across one of the 80 watt metcals at a good price I would pick it up to do a comparison and probably keep both regardless. Doesn’t seem like there would be any reason to pick up a 40 watt unit as the FX-100 already does the same thing, only better.
@@danhorton6182 Theres not much need as its so expensive for the Hakko base FX100 power supply. You can just use the handpieces with a metcal power supply instead (which are dirt cheap). The FX100 is not 80W, its 50W RF output, so very slightly higher than an older Metcal (40W). I'll believe the turbo when I see a measurement. But yes, compatible tips for the hakko T31 are very cheap (
The HCT-1000 probably has the most stupid, counterintuitive user interface I've ever seen in a hot air station. The hardware is ok, but it's just not practical.
@@jaro6985 what you said makes absolutely no sense. First you say the cost of the Hakko power supply is too expensive yet a used Metcal costs roughly as much and I’ve seen worse performing Metcal stations on his channel that cost more than the Hakko. Heck he spent nearly 3x the cost of the Hakko for a poorly functioning JBC solder feeding machine that can’t even get that right. I never stated the FX-100 was 80 watts, of course I know it’s 50 watts. And I wouldn’t call a 25% increase in output power “very slightly higher” than the 40w Metcal. And as for “believing the turbo mode when you see a measurement”, well you just made the argument for why it should be featured on this channel. That’s exactly what he does and I’m sure he would give his collected data and his honest opinion at the end. Though I’ve used the turbo mode and it most definitely works. Well the comment about the inexpensive Hakko tips made sense as they are. Hakko is a big player in the game and there are Hakko haters. Not sure if I’ve seen a Hakko on this channel. Limiting yourself because of brand name is limiting. I knew I wanted induction and after comparing the cost of tips and power supply the Hakko just seemed like the better buy in the long run. Not sure if ever miss the extra 30w of the 5200 Metcal, but in those instances I have the turbo mode. I have a Best hot air station, it was a much better buy than the Hakko or JBC. I also have a JBC station, which no longer gets used since I picked up the FX-100, if the FX-100 ever goes down it will then get used. I also have 3 other “inexpensive” stations I picked up because of this channel, either being mobile or can run on a battery making them good for uses in the garage and on the car. If I had purchased a used MX-5200, wand, mini wand, and all the tips I have I would have easily spent over double of what I have for the Hakko stuff. If it was the other way around I would have purchased the Metcal and be praising it. You say it’s too much, but for those that want to save a significant amount of money the FX-100 looks to be the smarter buy.
@@danhorton6182 You can get a used Metcal power supply for under $100 on ebay. A used MX5200 with handles goes for the same as a new FX100, so not really sure what your point is.
Those small transformers are sometimes (based on manufacturer) considered as permanently short circuit capable, thats the reason to not have fuse in line. They are also tragically inefficient - 1VA transformer has more losses than its rated power.
NOTE if you like a quiet lab!! The jet taking off sound of the max flow is activated EVERY TIME you replace the hand piece to the holder. It’s insanely noisy and distracting after just a few minutes. I can’t find a way to turn it off so I just removed the magnets from the holder and just let it run or turn it off completely :( My older quick, the grey one didn’t do this. It continued at the same fan level to cool down
Also the fact it doesn’t show measured temperature and just the stable set point like it’s bossing it is not what you should expect for £350? Might just be me but if it weren’t for the nicer look I’d swap my main bench hot air back to the grey quick as recommended by Steve :)
Looks really nice. Too nice to be my first hot air gun. Curious, when first getting into SMD, what to buy first for assembly and rework? Most to least useful tools. Got soldering iron, what's next, hot air gun, or hot plate, or something else? Looking to see if SDG channel has lab roadmap already... With different options depending on budget
The Quick 857DW+ is a good "budget" hot air station. Excellent user interface and works well so I would recommend this. The hotplate would be 3rd after a hot air station IMO. s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dd0KZjl
@@sdgelectronics My brother's got the older Quick 861 (the one everyone bought because of youtube), I got the ST-862D which cost a little over half the price, we compared them and performance was identical. Build quality of both was ok.
Standby power 15:12 I originally wondered if standby power didn’t take power factor into account, but later I noticed power was 0.84W when on in sleep mode and -1W just before soldering. So your power analyser thing isn’t that accurate..? I’d like to see a video on it. Also, that standby power supply with PCB transformer, relay & other components is just to make a power button function?? Instead of using a power switch. They could have at least used it for the 5v rail, instead of stepping down 24v with the 78M05.
Note about desoldering test: First removal warmed up the pcb. Could you measure mains AC waveform of the heating element. Does it regulate zero crossing half cycles or full cycles?
How do you think the Best BST-863 compares with this model, or 861X, or 861DW? There is a mod kit for the Best BST-863 which seems to eliminate some of the quirkiness.
We need heat, not cold air. The wind that comes out too quickly is not hot enough. There must be a balance point. And you must understand the difference that TR1300a is helical wind but 861 is Vertical wind.
@@sahapholpasaja5410 But that is not the point. I was commenting on the size of the blower Vs. the max airflow. My DE version which seems to feature a similar blower, does output 200L/m at 450 degrees or whatever the max displayed temp is (both measured). Whether that is required and for what, that's another subject.
what do you think about the atten st-862d? i bought one for 230€ and think its quite nice compared to my previous hot air solution (one 30cm hand unit directly connected to mains).
Attractive looking unit. For me the usability is not so much of an issue as I rarely use even all three presets? I usually go with 380C and 450C and that's it. The price though...it's just too high and not justified by a fancy LCD. It's just a hot air blower.
I have the first 1300 Watt model (the AD 856) and also the DW 861. The AD 856 is the best hot air solder station I ever used, I bought the 861 after some years and is a very good unit but no doubt the 1300 Watt model is really better, it seems an other planet, no way ... To be honest I don't know if this TR1300 has the same features as my old unit but ,if it's the upgrade of the AD 856 is a beast. It cost more than the double of the 861 so it's not cheap obviously but for professional lab. it could be the right choice. For who use it just in the weekend I think the 861 is the best convenient deal.
@@crimsomglory many reasons, more power, more air flow, more versatile firmware ecc... When i use the 856 and then 861 (1000 W standard version) I feel the difference, same job half time. The 861 is anyway a very good solder station, and at reasonable price, the 856AD was very expensive at the time, I paid it more or less 8/900 euro.
@@crimsomglory it has inside a very firmware. The AD856 is capable to make profiles, so you can program many kind of reflow, soldering or desoldering profiles.
I wonder if the heating element is the same between 230/240v models and 120v models, I haven't had any luck finding a listing on aliexpress or banggood for 120v heating elements. Has anyone else ran into this problem?
@@jaro6985 I never tried the heating element in my unit because the original is still working fine, I just wanted to have a spare. I just looked on aliexpress and there are listings for heating elements that have 240v under specifications and some other listings have universal under the specifications, so not very helpful. I wonder if maybe the heating element is powered from a tap on the transformer, if thats the case the heating elements could be the same between the 120v and 240v models.
I'm sorry but I'm not impressed ... old design, it says on pcb that it's from 2016... also, it's a 400$ product, they could have spend a few extra dollars on a proper switch mode 5v stand-by power supply (or whatever voltage it is) ... and the hack with the air going around the connector and screwing the hose to the front which is plastic... way too much space blocked by the hose in front, maybe if they had the connector on one side of the unit, maybe in a depression inside the volume of the unit...
TR1300A on AliExpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dl8uPhh
Support the Channel with Patreon: www.patreon.com/sdgelectronics
Pretty nice unit. Personally I don't think the user interface is really a problem because setting the profiles is not something you do regularly. To me the biggest downside would be the artificial temperature indicator.
Setting profile, no. But choosing profile, yes. Not having dedicated 1/2/3 preset buttons is a terrible choice.
They could have also put some secondary labels in smaller text on the buttons, which would go some way to solving the menu problems. Seems like they prioritised aesthetics over usability.
What a coincidence! Just a couple hours ago I unboxed and tested the very same unit at work. Mine had, however, a CE sticker since I got it from the official EU distributor for Quick.
Now, a few words on the missing features: according to the sales rep I talked to, and the documentation he provided to me, the model with the multi zone heating, a touch screen, and all the connectivity (useless in my opinion) is the WAY more expensive Quick TR1300. The sales rep literally said to me that the TR1300A is the better choice and better bang for the buck. Personally I like the interface, because my base unit is on a shelf above the work bench and there is not a lot of strain on the hand piece. One thing I would recommend to everyone is to get the 45 degree nozzle. This unit is really good!
I also have mine sitting slightly high up off the bench which works well. It's frustratingly close to being a great machine - a slightly longer hose, higher upper limit on airflow and a few UI tweaks and it would be there.
A fast looking, that station can be improved with a couple of changes... Thanks for all the details, super ilustrative...
I would also like to see an overview of the Quick TR1100 station (a copy of Metal HCT2-120)
METCAL stuff is so damn nice. Every time I use a METCAL piece of kit it just flat out works and works extremely well. Using METCAL is like lounging in your favorite chair…..comfortable and well designed. Great review.
I’d really like to see him do a review of the Hakko FX-100, which uses Metcal’s induction technology. I ponied up the bucks for it and have been using it for a couple of years. There was a thread online where a few guys bought the Metcal, JBC and the Hakko to do a comparison. It was either on DIYAudio or eevblog. Anyways they all preferred the curie point induction heating of the Metcal and Hakko better. When using two hand pieces on the Metcal they found the Hakko to have more power, but when using one and allowing it the full 80 watts the Metcal could wet a ground plane slightly faster, though they found the 80 watt Metcal and Hakko to be equal when using the FX-100 turbo mode. The Hakko ended up winning, not by a huge margin, because of less expensive tips and form and function. You need a big tip to take that 80 watts though.
Still I’d really love to see a video on this channel and get his thoughts since he’s a big Metcal user and he never really seems biased in his reviews. I would never give it up, I’m in love with this iron. Enough so that I bought a dozen of each of my favorite tips in case they skyrocket in price or go away. I also grabbed the mini hand piece and several micro tips. Sadly the micro tips are quite a bit more expensive. They are tiny though. If I came across one of the 80 watt metcals at a good price I would pick it up to do a comparison and probably keep both regardless. Doesn’t seem like there would be any reason to pick up a 40 watt unit as the FX-100 already does the same thing, only better.
@@danhorton6182 Theres not much need as its so expensive for the Hakko base FX100 power supply. You can just use the handpieces with a metcal power supply instead (which are dirt cheap). The FX100 is not 80W, its 50W RF output, so very slightly higher than an older Metcal (40W). I'll believe the turbo when I see a measurement.
But yes, compatible tips for the hakko T31 are very cheap (
The HCT-1000 probably has the most stupid, counterintuitive user interface I've ever seen in a hot air station. The hardware is ok, but it's just not practical.
@@jaro6985 what you said makes absolutely no sense. First you say the cost of the Hakko power supply is too expensive yet a used Metcal costs roughly as much and I’ve seen worse performing Metcal stations on his channel that cost more than the Hakko. Heck he spent nearly 3x the cost of the Hakko for a poorly functioning JBC solder feeding machine that can’t even get that right.
I never stated the FX-100 was 80 watts, of course I know it’s 50 watts. And I wouldn’t call a 25% increase in output power “very slightly higher” than the 40w Metcal. And as for “believing the turbo mode when you see a measurement”, well you just made the argument for why it should be featured on this channel. That’s exactly what he does and I’m sure he would give his collected data and his honest opinion at the end. Though I’ve used the turbo mode and it most definitely works.
Well the comment about the inexpensive Hakko tips made sense as they are. Hakko is a big player in the game and there are Hakko haters. Not sure if I’ve seen a Hakko on this channel. Limiting yourself because of brand name is limiting. I knew I wanted induction and after comparing the cost of tips and power supply the Hakko just seemed like the better buy in the long run. Not sure if ever miss the extra 30w of the 5200 Metcal, but in those instances I have the turbo mode. I have a Best hot air station, it was a much better buy than the Hakko or JBC. I also have a JBC station, which no longer gets used since I picked up the FX-100, if the FX-100 ever goes down it will then get used. I also have 3 other “inexpensive” stations I picked up because of this channel, either being mobile or can run on a battery making them good for uses in the garage and on the car.
If I had purchased a used MX-5200, wand, mini wand, and all the tips I have I would have easily spent over double of what I have for the Hakko stuff. If it was the other way around I would have purchased the Metcal and be praising it. You say it’s too much, but for those that want to save a significant amount of money the FX-100 looks to be the smarter buy.
@@danhorton6182 You can get a used Metcal power supply for under $100 on ebay. A used MX5200 with handles goes for the same as a new FX100, so not really sure what your point is.
Those small transformers are sometimes (based on manufacturer) considered as permanently short circuit capable, thats the reason to not have fuse in line. They are also tragically inefficient - 1VA transformer has more losses than its rated power.
o have this one for about 2 years flawlessly until now great tool
NOTE if you like a quiet lab!!
The jet taking off sound of the max flow is activated EVERY TIME you replace the hand piece to the holder. It’s insanely noisy and distracting after just a few minutes.
I can’t find a way to turn it off so I just removed the magnets from the holder and just let it run or turn it off completely :(
My older quick, the grey one didn’t do this. It continued at the same fan level to cool down
Also the fact it doesn’t show measured temperature and just the stable set point like it’s bossing it is not what you should expect for £350? Might just be me but if it weren’t for the nicer look I’d swap my main bench hot air back to the grey quick as recommended by Steve :)
Looks really nice. Too nice to be my first hot air gun. Curious, when first getting into SMD, what to buy first for assembly and rework? Most to least useful tools. Got soldering iron, what's next, hot air gun, or hot plate, or something else? Looking to see if SDG channel has lab roadmap already... With different options depending on budget
The Quick 857DW+ is a good "budget" hot air station. Excellent user interface and works well so I would recommend this. The hotplate would be 3rd after a hot air station IMO. s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dd0KZjl
Atten is a great budget option also. I use one at work
Frankly I'd just get an Atten. They work exactly the same as the Quick, but they are not as well known so the prices are reasonable.
I will get hold of one to try out.
@@sdgelectronics My brother's got the older Quick 861 (the one everyone bought because of youtube), I got the ST-862D which cost a little over half the price, we compared them and performance was identical. Build quality of both was ok.
Thank you for this excellent review.
There's a fuse on the rear panel between the power switch and the IEC plug. Having on on the board would be redundant.
Standby power 15:12 I originally wondered if standby power didn’t take power factor into account, but later I noticed power was 0.84W when on in sleep mode and -1W just before soldering. So your power analyser thing isn’t that accurate..? I’d like to see a video on it.
Also, that standby power supply with PCB transformer, relay & other components is just to make a power button function?? Instead of using a power switch.
They could have at least used it for the 5v rail, instead of stepping down 24v with the 78M05.
Al fin alguien q hable claro sobre quick tr1300a gracias tremendo video
Great review but I won't be upgrading my 858D any time soon !....cheers.
Sir please quick 861 pro smd rework station review
Can’t help but think of a Cyberman when looking at the unit.
Hi, which one would you recommend Quick 861DW, 861DE, 881D and TR1300A for general use and for laptop motherboard?
هاذا هو السؤال الذي لا يستطيعون الإجابة عليه
Note about desoldering test: First removal warmed up the pcb.
Could you measure mains AC waveform of the heating element. Does it regulate zero crossing half cycles or full cycles?
Could you please review the Quick 861 pro ?
07th Oct 2022: 1 GBP = 1,14 Euro. At 00:45 it shows £380. When I click on the Aliexpress link I get "€509,57 (220v)" which is £432. Where did £52 go?
Totally agree with you Steve. Nice unit has some disadvantages. Price too high. Thanks for sharing.
lookes like the head of a cyberman does Dr Who know you have it. 🙂
Squeaktastic ! my first thoughts as well 😂
I'd like to see a review of their micro hot air station tr1100a
What flux did you use here? I noticed it didnt melt and flow away like the one I use does.
How do you think the Best BST-863 compares with this model, or 861X, or 861DW? There is a mod kit for the Best BST-863 which seems to eliminate some of the quirkiness.
Is the ceramic heater element the universal one or specific to this unit?
I think it's specific to this model: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdgovvZ
that beastly blower and all that noise for only 70L airflow? The 861 DE features a similar blower but gets 200L!
Same on the 861X, not sure why this is so low in comparison.
70L airflow is enough. TR1300a has higher performance than 861dw, On the same charging port It can be lifed faster.
@@sahapholpasaja5410 not arguing that 70 is not enough, just that the DE model seems to feature the same blower and it features 200L/m
We need heat, not cold air. The wind that comes out too quickly is not hot enough. There must be a balance point. And you must understand the difference that TR1300a is helical wind but 861 is Vertical wind.
@@sahapholpasaja5410 But that is not the point. I was commenting on the size of the blower Vs. the max airflow. My DE version which seems to feature a similar blower, does output 200L/m at 450 degrees or whatever the max displayed temp is (both measured). Whether that is required and for what, that's another subject.
would love to see the tr1100a from keisertech
what do you think about the atten st-862d? i bought one for 230€ and think its quite nice compared to my previous hot air solution (one 30cm hand unit directly connected to mains).
Have a quick station and hakko soldering iron. Prefer everything sugon as i am a technician doing mostly board repairs.
Difficult to test these. for me aside from heating Performance the durability Would be most important
Thank you for the video!
when you need pay tax in uk ifyou order from aliexpres ? and how much ?
Attractive looking unit. For me the usability is not so much of an issue as I rarely use even all three presets? I usually go with 380C and 450C and that's it. The price though...it's just too high and not justified by a fancy LCD. It's just a hot air blower.
The third preset is useful for heatshrink, 150C or so.
when delivered to UK - do you need to pay extra taxes on customs on this Hot Air station?
It depends on the shipping method since some include all upfront, but it might be VAT (+20%), possibly an advance handling fee of around £15.
Is it worth putting a fuse in there yourself? I wonder how it compares to the original Quick 861 1kw model that sells for a lot less.
I have the first 1300 Watt model (the AD 856) and also the DW 861.
The AD 856 is the best hot air solder station I ever used, I bought the 861 after some years and is a very good unit but no doubt the 1300 Watt model is really better, it seems an other planet, no way ...
To be honest I don't know if this TR1300 has the same features as my old unit but ,if it's the upgrade of the AD 856 is a beast.
It cost more than the double of the 861 so it's not cheap obviously but for professional lab. it could be the right choice.
For who use it just in the weekend I think the 861 is the best convenient deal.
@@kamikazekk-df4vz why you prefer ad 856?
@@crimsomglory many reasons, more power, more air flow, more versatile firmware ecc...
When i use the 856 and then 861 (1000 W standard version) I feel the difference, same job half time.
The 861 is anyway a very good solder station, and at reasonable price, the 856AD was very expensive at the time, I paid it more or less 8/900 euro.
@@kamikazekk-df4vz what do you mean with “versatile firmware”?
@@crimsomglory it has inside a very firmware.
The AD856 is capable to make profiles, so you can program many kind of reflow, soldering or desoldering profiles.
It true one has 500c of Hot??
What is that flux you used for desoldering? Cheers
Some SolderKing flux
We have this unit and it is great
Naa, I prefer the simple Interface of the 861. I don't see any benefits from this unit.
I wonder if the heating element is the same between 230/240v models and 120v models, I haven't had any luck finding a listing on aliexpress or banggood for 120v heating elements. Has anyone else ran into this problem?
Its definitely a different heating element. For years quick only had 230V, took them a while to release 120V.
@@jaro6985 welp too bad I bought the 230v/240v version about a year ago without realizing lol
@@69uremum It works for you? must be way slower to heat up.
@@jaro6985 I never tried the heating element in my unit because the original is still working fine, I just wanted to have a spare. I just looked on aliexpress and there are listings for heating elements that have 240v under specifications and some other listings have universal under the specifications, so not very helpful. I wonder if maybe the heating element is powered from a tap on the transformer, if thats the case the heating elements could be the same between the 120v and 240v models.
@@69uremum it cant be from the transformer, that would take too much power. Did you measure the resistance of the heating element?
I'm sorry but I'm not impressed ... old design, it says on pcb that it's from 2016... also, it's a 400$ product, they could have spend a few extra dollars on a proper switch mode 5v stand-by power supply (or whatever voltage it is) ... and the hack with the air going around the connector and screwing the hose to the front which is plastic... way too much space blocked by the hose in front, maybe if they had the connector on one side of the unit, maybe in a depression inside the volume of the unit...
What a strange logo, at a glance it looks like a rude word. Who signed that off 🤔
these ass-ears hinders the shelf positioning...
No thanks.
Hey man! Did you just not see this is fake tr1300??? For the sake of God watch some videos and see how it is in the original bro!
fake'!?!?
Bro how is the best 861 or 1300a
Bro how is the best 861 or 1300a
Valley more money ithing is Very good. Very good video thenks