Ha... I forgot about this video and repair until The Guitologist decided to rant on Blackstar. Now I bet that's why I'm getting the thumbs downs. Lol... I fixed it for cheap.....what more do you want?
I have one of these on my bench right now. It appears to be bad grounding points in my case. The metal ring around the input jack makes no electrical connection to chassis due to the powder coat. Removed the powder coat and the noise mostly went away. The "static" is gone, and the "scream" is very light. Going to remove the powder coat around all grounding connections to further eliminate issues.
Would you be able to do a video on the positive grid spark 40. They develop an issue where the amp snaps/pops when turned off. But they work normal otherwise. All you can do is keep sending them back for replacement/repair at 60.00 plus shipping one way. No indication of any upgraded components to avoid this. Thanks
I came '🤏' close to getting one of these from Sam Ash, before they went under. But the salesman warned me about Blackstar, and this amp in particular. You're reading that right, _a Sam Ash salesman actually steered me away from buying this thing!_ 😂
@@rickymarshallkirkpatrick6433 Many times, an overdrive channel just "adds in" another 12AX7 to the mix. If you can link me the schematic, I'll see what I can tell you.
Hey DeadKoby, thanks a lot for the explanatory video. I'm having a similar issue with a Blackstar HT Stage 60, when playing the guitar hard with high gain the amp sounds like a broken fuzz coming and going, but when playing lightly it sounds clean but very low volume. I did reflow a few solder joints that looked bad to me but still same issue. It has new power tubes, I tried with other preamp tubes. Also cleaned all connectors since I read these ribbon cables could be loose sometimes. Any idea where to keep looking? Honestly I didn't make sure the reflow reaches the other side of the pcb, that will be my next step
I just bought a ht 40 with in 12 hours it developed a fault low volume and distorted output on both channels , switched of let it cool down and turned back on it worked fine only to hear the fault return later on . I contacted the shop who sent out a replacement and picked up the faulty amp at no cost to me I kind of suspect a dry solder joint ? I have a 12 month warranty with it so when it runs I will check for dry joints. It could be lead free solder being used nowhere as good as the old lead solder.
@@DeadKoby Yes and I found some on ebay 60/40 new old stock, there are also some other types of solder that I tried where absolute rubbish sent them back for refund.
@@DeadKoby I live in the UK and best solder her is Multicore 60/40 which was very common in manufacturing of PCB it might be still around on Radiospares site.
Sounds good. Kester is what much of the US military is said to have used. I couldn't find anyone who said anything bad about it.... so when I needed a new roll, that's what I went with, and stayed with.
I'm a keyboard player (over 50 yrs) and help my son's band out from time to time. One of his guitar players has the Blackstar in question, It started acting up, and when it did, the same exact sounds were coming through the other guitar players Fender 25W. I've never seen anything like that before. They were on the same circuit. Any thoughts on this? Thanks.
Came across this video after my Blackstar HT Club 40 started doing something weird - it sounds like there is a massive volume drop anytime I play and the tone is all fuzzy and just complete garbage/rubbish. It does this every once in a while and somehow goes away on its own, but ultimately comes back again. This amp is driving me crazy and I'm about ready to give up on it and spend more $$$ on something that is better built.
Hi. I have the same amp. The problem I have is a scratchy noise like a dirty pot being turned that comes and goes. Sometimes silent and a few seconds later noise returns. This is when I have a guitar chord with guitar connected. No guitar chord plugged in, amp is silent. Have tried different guitar chords. I thought it might be AC noise from the power chord so took the amp to work and same noise is heard. I'm going to start by removing the amp and checking if there is anything obvious and then clean pots if they can be blown out or pot cleaning lubricant sprayed in. I checked the spade lugs from the amp out to the speaker are securely making contact. I'm wondering if anyone has heard of this issue before or might know what is causing it or some other resources I could use to find out the trouble. Thanks.
@@DeadKoby Was definitely the power tubes heard by moving the one power tube. Put in a set of JJ EL34. I found a bias procedure that said to measure 50mv dc across Diode 36. I was not able to measure anything. The same with going between the two test points where 50mv is printed on the board. No voltage at all. This is with the speaker connected and plug in the input jack. I put it back together. The crackle sound is gone but I feel it needs a bias because it doesn't sound as full as before. Lot's of misinformation on biasing on the internet. Are you able to explain to me how to bias and balance the amp. Thank you.
This is what Korg says. The support the product in the US and Canada: Kind of unclear to me when it comes to bias balance. What are your test points then and where do you put your scope, across the speakers? dealers.korgusa.com/svcfiles/Blackstar%20Bias%20Procedure.pdf
My Blackstar venue 40 MKll loses volume when using FX loop? I unplug the FX channel it gets back to normal volume. I originally thought it could be the tubes. I put new JJ power tubes and Preamp tubes. So now sounds better but still losing volume when hooked to FX loop. Played in practice yesterday morning and played a gig last night for 4 hours seemed okay running necessary pedals through front of amp! Checked all pedal voltages today on board All voltages are good. Checked wires with ohm meter all checked good. Any ideas for my next step? Thanks great video!
@@DeadKoby I just run a MXR 10 band equalizer, Boss Super Chorus, and a EC Electronics Delay. I have had the Delay and Chorus for a couple of years no Problem. Added the EQ about 6 months ago. All was working great but All the sudden an hour into practice in just dropped to nothing , Then came back with a more distorted signal but back. then just got worse no tone fuzzy and dropping in and out. So I removed the chords out of the amp and power was Awesome. I did spray some electrical cleaner in the jack and on the cable and moved it around but still loses volume. I played my gig on Saturday night just going thru the front of the amp. Seemed to work okay. I run a Wah and Phaser thru the front of amp. And a Blackstar 5 way switch the the Pedal Connection on the back. Thanks for your reply.
Hey I got a blackstar MkII kentucky special ht club 40. The stock tubes crapped out within 4 months, like 3 months. Not sure if it was just one or both. Iv read different things about cathiode amp which I believe these blackstar are, I read they don’t need to be biased to any specific range? They’re at a tech right now but I’d like to be educated on this. I read on a forum blackstar MkII s can’t be biased or maybe they meant they don’t need to be because they are self biasing. Any info? My manual doesn’t mention amp biasing so idk.
Looking at THIS Blackstar HT40 schematic, it appears to have a typical adjustable bias.... The cathode resistor is 1ohm, used for easy current measurements. dealers.korgusa.com/svcfiles/HT-Club%2040%20schematic.pdf I don't know if this is the exact schematic for your amp.
Thanks for the reply , I actually got a call from the tech, I had ordered ruby tubes from the company themselves in Cali. I’d really appreciate any insight here. So my tech called, who Iv never used before, he said the ruby tubes I gave him were rated too high, the milli amps were not able to go low enough. I spoke to ruby tubes after, and I was told to let em know what plate voltage I needed the tubes to match. The tech said the plate voltage needs to be under 30. After speaking to ruby tubes they said it’s almost impossible for their 6l6 gcmstr tube to be that low in plate voltage. They said lowest is probably 34. So I wonder why would blackstar put such a hard to find ruby tube in their amp? It’s the right tube. The tech said it could run too hot. I asked him what the concern would be? Other than a tube burning out faster, meaning could it blow a transformer or something? They said story just wouldn’t warranty it, which is only 30 days anyways apparently. What do you think? If the plate voltage can’t go less than 34 and my new tech is saying it must be under 30, is that something can lead to bigger issues? Ruby tubes said they must be trying to sell their own tubes which I know they have many in stock and I figured maybe the tech is tryna up sale more their more expensive tubes. So based on what I said, you think I need to give em different tubes? How would they know exactly what plate voltage needs to be exactly? Are they basing it off of the tubes already in there? Cuz those tubes were microphonic and didn’t even last 4 months from the factory. So they had an issue. Ruby tubes said their 6l6 gcmstr tubes typically don’t go under 34 in plate voltage. My concern is damaging my amp. Any help would be great!
Plate voltages are usually between 400-500v, and aren't easily adjusted, so I think he may be referencing plate current, which in mili-amps would be around 30ish. Bias voltages, used to reduce the current are many times in the -30v ranges, so that might be it too. I don't buy Ruby tubes, because they are just re-brands of tubes I can buy from the original makers at lower prices(China). If I recall, there's not much swing on the bias range of these amps, as they locked them fairly well within the safe zone. I'm not able to evaluate anyone else's work, but your questions did inspire me to create a new video about power tube bias that will be uploaded in an hour or so. Under normal circumstances, If budgets are tight, JJ or EH is the go-to tube, and TungSol or Mullard is the premium option. When budget is the #1 concern, Chinese tubes do work just fine....longevity was always in question with them though. I thought the HT40 took EL34 tubes, and not 6L6GC... perhaps you should help me locate a schematic for your specific model, and then I will be better equipped to answer questions.
Just wanted your advice , hope you can reply .. got basically the same amp .. but with mine you can just turn it on and it will start making this crackling sound .. at random and then it will make one big crack and then silence for a few seconds and then the crackling come back ...and then it started to making a feedback type a sound , I turned it off ..just plugged in , nothing plugged into it and on standby .. it does all this .. tubes look lit up and tight ..I am not a tech so I will need to take it in for repair , amp doesn’t have many hours on it ..anyways hope you can narrow it down ...because you don’t even need to play through it .. thanks ..
@@DeadKoby I don’t have a tube tester , could I buy new tubes put them in and see if it corrects it , I can’t bias the tubes .. so if new tubes changes what it’s doing , I would need to bias them after .. would that be a plan that might work..
Ha... I forgot about this video and repair until The Guitologist decided to rant on Blackstar. Now I bet that's why I'm getting the thumbs downs. Lol... I fixed it for cheap.....what more do you want?
Update.........The customer contacted me, and amp has been in service for a month, and is still OK.
I have one of these on my bench right now. It appears to be bad grounding points in my case. The metal ring around the input jack makes no electrical connection to chassis due to the powder coat. Removed the powder coat and the noise mostly went away. The "static" is gone, and the "scream" is very light. Going to remove the powder coat around all grounding connections to further eliminate issues.
Would you be able to do a video on the positive grid spark 40. They develop an issue where the amp snaps/pops when turned off. But they work normal otherwise. All you can do is keep sending them back for replacement/repair at 60.00 plus shipping one way. No indication of any upgraded components to avoid this. Thanks
It's normal for solid state stuff. I have a video on that topic.
Do you think is a good idea to take off the spring that holds the power tubes? Or that will create another problem? Thanks!
@@cesarguitarra1975 tube holders are a good thing.
I came '🤏' close to getting one of these from Sam Ash, before they went under. But the salesman warned me about Blackstar, and this amp in particular. You're reading that right, _a Sam Ash salesman actually steered me away from buying this thing!_ 😂
@@DerpRulesAll since I've been amp building I insist on point to point
@DeadKoby That's wise policy.
Which 12-AX7 tube socket is the overdrive channel? Closest to the back or front of the amp? Thanks!
I don't recall.
@@DeadKoby I don’t read schematics very well and there is nothing in “layman‘s terms” that indicate which one it is. Thanks anyway.
@@rickymarshallkirkpatrick6433 Many times, an overdrive channel just "adds in" another 12AX7 to the mix. If you can link me the schematic, I'll see what I can tell you.
Hey DeadKoby, thanks a lot for the explanatory video. I'm having a similar issue with a Blackstar HT Stage 60, when playing the guitar hard with high gain the amp sounds like a broken fuzz coming and going, but when playing lightly it sounds clean but very low volume. I did reflow a few solder joints that looked bad to me but still same issue. It has new power tubes, I tried with other preamp tubes. Also cleaned all connectors since I read these ribbon cables could be loose sometimes. Any idea where to keep looking? Honestly I didn't make sure the reflow reaches the other side of the pcb, that will be my next step
Its hard to say, but failed solder connections are most common on tubes and pots.
I just bought a ht 40 with in 12 hours it developed a fault low volume and distorted output on both channels , switched of let it cool down and turned back on it worked fine only to hear the fault return later on .
I contacted the shop who sent out a replacement and picked up the faulty amp at no cost to me
I kind of suspect a dry solder joint ?
I have a 12 month warranty with it so when it runs I will check for dry joints.
It could be lead free solder being used nowhere as good as the old lead solder.
The soldering on the tube sockets on this one certainly needed help. I use "classic" 60/40 Electronics solder.
@@DeadKoby Yes and I found some on ebay 60/40 new old stock, there are also some other types of solder that I tried where absolute rubbish sent them back for refund.
I use Kester 60/40... current production stuff. AmplifiedParts.com is a good source. Kester is kind of an industry standard, and I have no complaints.
@@DeadKoby I live in the UK and best solder her is Multicore 60/40 which was very common in manufacturing of PCB it might be still around on Radiospares site.
Sounds good. Kester is what much of the US military is said to have used. I couldn't find anyone who said anything bad about it.... so when I needed a new roll, that's what I went with, and stayed with.
Does this amp have a Digital Reverb ?
I'm a keyboard player (over 50 yrs) and help my son's band out from time to time. One of his guitar players has the Blackstar in question, It started acting up, and when it did, the same exact sounds were coming through the other guitar players Fender 25W. I've never seen anything like that before. They were on the same circuit. Any thoughts on this? Thanks.
When two amps are grounded to the same circuit, one malfunction can leak into the other. Your guitar's ground is on the same earth ground.
Thanks 👍@@DeadKoby
Came across this video after my Blackstar HT Club 40 started doing something weird - it sounds like there is a massive volume drop anytime I play and the tone is all fuzzy and just complete garbage/rubbish. It does this every once in a while and somehow goes away on its own, but ultimately comes back again. This amp is driving me crazy and I'm about ready to give up on it and spend more $$$ on something that is better built.
Yours could have the exact same issue as this one did
Hi. I have the same amp. The problem I have is a scratchy noise like a dirty pot being turned that comes and goes. Sometimes silent and a few seconds later noise returns. This is when I have a guitar chord with guitar connected. No guitar chord plugged in, amp is silent. Have tried different guitar chords. I thought it might be AC noise from the power chord so took the amp to work and same noise is heard. I'm going to start by removing the amp and checking if there is anything obvious and then clean pots if they can be blown out or pot cleaning lubricant sprayed in. I checked the spade lugs from the amp out to the speaker are securely making contact. I'm wondering if anyone has heard of this issue before or might know what is causing it or some other resources I could use to find out the trouble. Thanks.
Try. "Chopsticking" the board while the amp is on.
@@DeadKoby Was definitely the power tubes heard by moving the one power tube. Put in a set of JJ EL34. I found a bias procedure that said to measure 50mv dc across Diode 36. I was not able to measure anything. The same with going between the two test points where 50mv is printed on the board. No voltage at all. This is with the speaker connected and plug in the input jack. I put it back together. The crackle sound is gone but I feel it needs a bias because it doesn't sound as full as before. Lot's of misinformation on biasing on the internet. Are you able to explain to me how to bias and balance the amp. Thank you.
I'd need a schematic. Normally you measure the bias across a CATHODE RESISTOR... or the output transformer winding.
@@DeadKoby dealers.korgusa.com/svcfiles/HT-Club%2040%20schematic.pdf
This is what Korg says. The support the product in the US and Canada: Kind of unclear to me when it comes to bias balance. What are your test points then and where do you put your scope, across the speakers? dealers.korgusa.com/svcfiles/Blackstar%20Bias%20Procedure.pdf
My Blackstar venue 40 MKll loses volume when using FX loop? I unplug the FX channel it gets back to normal volume. I originally thought it could be the tubes. I put new JJ power tubes and Preamp tubes. So now sounds better but still losing volume when hooked to FX loop. Played in practice yesterday morning and played a gig last night for 4 hours seemed okay running necessary pedals through front of amp! Checked all pedal voltages today on board All voltages are good. Checked wires with ohm meter all checked good. Any ideas for my next step? Thanks great video!
what all devices are you putting through the fx-loop. it's common to have a drop there.
@@DeadKoby I just run a MXR 10 band equalizer, Boss Super Chorus, and a EC Electronics Delay. I have had the Delay and Chorus for a couple of years no Problem. Added the EQ about 6 months ago. All was working great but All the sudden an hour into practice in just dropped to nothing , Then came back with a more distorted signal but back. then just got worse no tone fuzzy and dropping in and out. So I removed the chords out of the amp and power was Awesome. I did spray some electrical cleaner in the jack and on the cable and moved it around but still loses volume. I played my gig on Saturday night just going thru the front of the amp. Seemed to work okay. I run a Wah and Phaser thru the front of amp. And a Blackstar 5 way switch the the Pedal Connection on the back. Thanks for your reply.
@@Bkintz32 Could be on your pedals, could be on the amp. Link the FX loop back to itself with a cable. That will tell you.
Great video Thank you ! Do you know where I can purchase the guitar input jack for a Blackstar Ht Soloist 60 ?
I think its a cliff jack. Www.amplifiedparts.com will have it.
DeadKoby Thank you!!
You're welcome. I'm not 100% certain, but most amps outside of Fender use Cliff on their PC board amps. A visual comparison will let you know.
Hey I got a blackstar MkII kentucky special ht club 40. The stock tubes crapped out within 4 months, like 3 months. Not sure if it was just one or both.
Iv read different things about cathiode amp which I believe these blackstar are, I read they don’t need to be biased to any specific range? They’re at a tech right now but I’d like to be educated on this. I read on a forum blackstar MkII s can’t be biased or maybe they meant they don’t need to be because they are self biasing.
Any info? My manual doesn’t mention amp biasing so idk.
Looking at THIS Blackstar HT40 schematic, it appears to have a typical adjustable bias.... The cathode resistor is 1ohm, used for easy current measurements. dealers.korgusa.com/svcfiles/HT-Club%2040%20schematic.pdf
I don't know if this is the exact schematic for your amp.
Thanks for the reply , I actually got a call from the tech, I had ordered ruby tubes from the company themselves in Cali.
I’d really appreciate any insight here. So my tech called, who Iv never used before, he said the ruby tubes I gave him were rated too high, the milli amps were not able to go low enough. I spoke to ruby tubes after, and I was told to let em know what plate voltage I needed the tubes to match.
The tech said the plate voltage needs to be under 30. After speaking to ruby tubes they said it’s almost impossible for their 6l6 gcmstr tube to be that low in plate voltage. They said lowest is probably 34. So I wonder why would blackstar put such a hard to find ruby tube in their amp? It’s the right tube. The tech said it could run too hot. I asked him what the concern would be? Other than a tube burning out faster, meaning could it blow a transformer or something?
They said story just wouldn’t warranty it, which is only 30 days anyways apparently.
What do you think? If the plate voltage can’t go less than 34 and my new tech is saying it must be under 30, is that something can lead to bigger issues?
Ruby tubes said they must be trying to sell their own tubes which I know they have many in stock and I figured maybe the tech is tryna up sale more their more expensive tubes.
So based on what I said, you think I need to give em different tubes? How would they know exactly what plate voltage needs to be exactly? Are they basing it off of the tubes already in there? Cuz those tubes were microphonic and didn’t even last 4 months from the factory. So they had an issue. Ruby tubes said their 6l6 gcmstr tubes typically don’t go under 34 in plate voltage. My concern is damaging my amp. Any help would be great!
Plate voltages are usually between 400-500v, and aren't easily adjusted, so I think he may be referencing plate current, which in mili-amps would be around 30ish. Bias voltages, used to reduce the current are many times in the -30v ranges, so that might be it too. I don't buy Ruby tubes, because they are just re-brands of tubes I can buy from the original makers at lower prices(China). If I recall, there's not much swing on the bias range of these amps, as they locked them fairly well within the safe zone. I'm not able to evaluate anyone else's work, but your questions did inspire me to create a new video about power tube bias that will be uploaded in an hour or so. Under normal circumstances, If budgets are tight, JJ or EH is the go-to tube, and TungSol or Mullard is the premium option. When budget is the #1 concern, Chinese tubes do work just fine....longevity was always in question with them though. I thought the HT40 took EL34 tubes, and not 6L6GC... perhaps you should help me locate a schematic for your specific model, and then I will be better equipped to answer questions.
Just wanted your advice , hope you can reply .. got basically the same amp .. but with mine you can just turn it on and it will start making this crackling sound .. at random and then it will make one big crack and then silence for a few seconds and then the crackling come back ...and then it started to making a feedback type a sound , I turned it off ..just plugged in , nothing plugged into it and on standby .. it does all this .. tubes look lit up and tight ..I am not a tech so I will need to take it in for repair , amp doesn’t have many hours on it ..anyways hope you can narrow it down ...because you don’t even need to play through it .. thanks ..
When they are acting wacky, I always start by testing the tubes.
@@DeadKoby I don’t have a tube tester , could I buy new tubes put them in and see if it corrects it , I can’t bias the tubes .. so if new tubes changes what it’s doing , I would need to bias them after .. would that be a plan that might work..
I have a Bugera G5 with the same tube sockets and similar symptoms, I think you solved it for me. Thanks
Super. Glad it helped.
sodder? - solder surely :)
Now that I've worked around and with more international technicians.....I've adopted pronouncing the L.
You promised tire kicking. I received none.
Forgive me... I'll get it right next time.