Trabant wont start- can I fix it?

You can support me on Patreon!
/ seasidegarage
The Trabant p60 wont start and I had to push start it yesterday.
Today I hope to fix it without changing any parts... I will take of the Starter motor and try to service it a bit.

[@jeffr0]

i like that you try to repair components, not just rush out and buy a new one

[@SluSharkND]

Whether that was the "right" fix or not, I appreciate that you took us through your process. That is the important part, at least to me. Thank you!

[@baronbarbaron]

Actually there is a few points where you should touch when it is disassembled. The best is to put a new sliding bearings, if not at least you can lubricate the old ones, but they are a key to work properly. They always wear in eccentric, that's why is best to replace them. They are one of the reasons for the brushes to wear fast and stuck often, also to hesitate to start. It is good practice to remove the copper-graphite dust accumulated on the separators, placed between the sections of the collector. I do it with a plastic or wooden stick. I always change the nuts on the electric connections and clean the contact surfaces. The surface where the starter meets the engine is also important to be cleaned, because it is actually electrical contact too rather than mechanical. The brushes have to be dry, never lubricate them, because the dust stick on the lube. They are made from graphite and copper pressed, and they are self dry lubricating. The easy way to assemble it is to leave the brushes out, and put them after the rotor (in that exact style of starter)

[@SeasideGarage]

Thanks for this very useful comment! :) If it stops working again, I will look into it once more.

[@ruaraidhmcdonald-walker9524]

They’re called brushes in English. Nice fix. Love the Trabbi!

[@andyarmstrong1493]

Very informative. I was surprised it was a pre-engaged starter.

[@Ivorbiggin]

Great job maybe you can get a service kit for the original starter motor and then keep it as a spare ,once you have changed it for a new one

[@SillyMonkeys]

I like trying to repair also, even if it doesn't work , you get to learn.

[@twocvbloke]

Sounds like it's spinning a bit on the slow side, a good cleaning out, contact clean and lubrication in the right spots ought to sort it out, as they would do back in the day... :)

[@SeasideGarage]

It is a bit slow... but it is a 6v.... Im not sure if its normal or not.

[@andrewretaylor]

@@SeasideGarage its sounds normal to me (compared to my 6v Trabbi), but cleaning all the contacts will help a bit.
This is my second start of my car prior to doing an engine rebuilt (replaced seals etc after it sat for 20+ years)
th-cam.com/video/_VgrxsOL2AY/w-d-xo.html

[@SeasideGarage]

@@andrewretaylor uh that sounds healthy!!

[@icascone]

Well, you managed to fool me on your "expertise" lol

[@CXensation]

Dine coals hedder "brushes" på engelsk 😄
Nice video 👍

[@SeasideGarage]

Ah ja! :D tak!

[@LOTPOR0402]

Wants dipping in solvent clean all the crap off.Clean the commutator with fine wet dry and clean the carbon in between the segments

[@SeasideGarage]

Was in a bit of a hurry....
I got a big ultrasonic cleaner on order! That will help me in the future... :D

[@SeasideGarage]

@@Beauloqs Ah no I would not put that in... but the casing ... :) Cant wait to get it!

[@josephmathis5795]

The word "coal" as in "coal mine", so, coal = carbon = carbon brush, or just brush.

[@SeasideGarage]

Ah yes!

[@NuffMan_]

The brushes are made of graphite thats a natural lubricant, no need for copperpaste.

[@SeasideGarage]

Ok, now I know! I am used to see them in graphite, but these where in copper actually.

[@NuffMan_]

@@SeasideGaragethey are graphite but they have some copper in them to make them last longer, but it will cause more wear to the sliprings and thats why there arent used in altenators etc that are constantly turning

[@luismacedo8734]

Hi. Personally, i would wirebrush the casing, all that rust isn't a good eletricity conductor for the ground. Also, change brushes, and clean everything with contact cleaner spray. Also sand paper the collector (where bruhes contact the shaft). 1500 grit or higher. Lubricate the sandpaper with wd40 and a light sand would be enough. After, with a toothpick, clean the crap between all colector plates. Finally, a dab of grease in the bearings and reassembly. But then again, i'm not a mechanic, but a hobbist like you.

[@luismacedo8734]

And don't forget similar treatment to the solenoid. And maybe some new terminals on the wires. Or cleaning them with wirebrush

[@hobbyhermit66]

Maybe you forgot to wind it up.

[@SeasideGarage]

Haha!