Kampala Rd: Repairing a Hornby Class 50 Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- Over Haul of Achilles Hornbys superb class 50. If you have a defunct one of these, this may help. Dropped by my son and suffering a seized motor I try to get her back to her former glory! Thanks to an incorrect pcb, not all is achieved.
Hi Jerry, just found this now - I'm visiting Congo for work and its Sunday ... Fantastic continuity. I'm only part-way through, where you're discovering the PCB variations. It's little short of patient hilarity - I'm certain there must have been several 'Beer O'Clock's in the process!! Al.
Well dont come this side of the DRC, we have Ebola lurking around. Thanks for watching and commenting. Cheers Jerry
@@jerryallen34 I won't be too far away, but will be on a minesite - all controlled access, etc and a few hundred miles away. Hope you don't get caught up in the affected areas, and keep up the videos. Al.
@@alantoms3263 Alan, is that the Australian owned gold mine? I have met a few guys on planes going there. Cant remember the name of it?
@@jerryallen34 I'm off to Kapulo - Cu mine - so nowhere near the Au. Did I read somewhere that Uganda is the 4th biggest exporter of Au in Africa, but has no naturally occurring Au? !! Basically all is 'brought across' from the DRC!
@@alantoms3263 Yes read the same. Emirates flew here 3 times a week, they now fly here everyday as does Fly Dubai!!! Wonder why!
Very informative Jerry good video.Mick
Thanks Mick, As you know they are very smooth runners and now Achillies is no exception. Cheers Jerry
It is very nice to hear from you again. I guess I must have missed a few videos. I am also sorry to hear about what happened to your stock on its travel. Best wishes. Martin. (Thailand)
So many arrived not working, that’s heart breaking. I know accidents happen but man terrible experience to have happen. Seeing you bring this back to life was enjoyable. Lovely slow moving on it now. Great job. Lots to learn from in this video, Clint
Leila Central Gday Clint, thanks and hopefully a useful upload. I love these locos so really wanted to get it going. It's travelled the world, U.K. To Uganda then to Australia, then PNG then back to Uganda so these 30 odd locos do mean something to me Lol. Take care Jerry
Great job so farJerry!! Cheers Onno.
Hey Onno once again thanks and glad you liked it. Cheers Jerry
A real labour of love, Jerry. Used to do this sort of thing all the time, but, at 70, life's become too short ! All the best, Reinhard.
That made me smile Reinhard. I felt like that yesterday half way through. Take care. Jerry
Hi Jerry kevin ,yes came across your video repairing , drop my 31 Dutch livery on floor what a nightmare took two days to repair ,thanks for the tip about the lights try today ,too get them working otherwise all ok with headache kevin philipines
Good luck mate!
can't believe your patience ,for all the locos problems it really runs well
Yes it runs how a 50 should which must be one of the best locos out there. Thanks for watching. Cheers Jerry
Hi Jerry,
Well not so much a repair more a complete rebuild for a man that says he is not very experienced you could have fooled me (not very difficult)to get a loco in that state working at all I take my hat off to you and feel sure you will sort the lights. You have glued up the body could you not fill the gaps and then repaint it or weather it to blend in I am sure you could. Keep up the interesting video's you produce to keep us all watching so very well done.
Cheers Robert.
Hi Robert and thanks fpr the comments. Interesting idea re the filler. I had not thought of that until yourself and someone else suggested this. It could be worth a go.
I hope ypu enjoyed the video and i really appreciate the input. Best. Jerry
Hi Jerry, You have a lot of patience and your skills are improving greatly on repairs. I had two similar diesels with one default. So I just took out the motor and gears, coupled her up with the good one and have now a 'double traction'. Works just fine. Well a different approach. You see, I'm not as patient as you ! Success & greetings. Filip
Hi Filip, I had actually thought about that with class 20's and I am glad you have pointed the way. Thanks. 20s are always in couples and it struck me that if I get a non-runner I could do the same as you have. Thanks and glad you liked the video. Best. Jerry
great job there !!
Thank you Merv. Best. Jerry
A major job, Jerry. They call it 'sods' law, that the PCBs are all different. Good job 'Cluso'. It runs well after all that work.
Gday Nigel, Yes it runs very well now. Just need lights! Thanks mate and apprecite the comments coming. Cheers, Jerry
Well done Gerry! What patience you have....learnt a lot, thanks for posting!😎🇦🇺👍
Thanks Steven and if it is of use to you that is really great. Cheers Jerry
Great patience Jerry, steady hand .....your knowledge is a wonder on how too.👌
Hi mate, not a steamer I'm afraid but thanks for watching and all your support and input outside YT. Really appreciated Jerry
Another great video. I have had problems with the older hornby class 50 with traction tyres. In the end , I sold it for parts. Now have a new one.
Yeah the ture thing is a bit odd given the weight of thr thing is good. New one is a good idea . Did you sell the body shell haha. Many thanks for watching and commenting Best. Jerry
@@jerryallen34 yes sadly. Hope you get a replacement soon.
Roger, you can simply swap the wheel sets for later ones, that’s what I did. My very early 50018 now runs just as well as my brand new 50010.
that's a great idea jake. wish I had thought of that.
Blimey Jerry, that was a mammoth job, great kudos to you for persevering with it, many would have either given up or not bothered at all considering the state it was in originally. Fantastic mate and well done, great video in so many ways. Cheers for now. .......... Graham
Hi Graham, apologise for the slow reply, I am on the road. Thanks mate. As you know they run probably the best of any diesel loco on the market and now this one is back to that. Issue being the body but there are choices there which I can chase. Like your videos, a lot edited out to try and keep within 30 minutes but I over ran by a few. Thanks and take care, Jerry
Jerry Allen No worries about the late reply Jerry, I’m just the same - there are only so many hours in the day. I’m sure you will be able to pick another body up without too much of a problem, when you have that then you will have a perfect 57! 👍🏻. Cheers for now mate. ........... Graham
I can't believe there are so many different PCBs but at least it's running now all the best
Brian
Four locos, four different set ups, nor can I but themselves the breaks Brian I guess. Thanks for the comments. Cheers Jerry
great admiration for your skill Jerry!!!...brilliant!... all the best,dave
Thanks Dave that is very kind of you but as the old saying goes if i can do it, anyone can . Cheers and thanks again Jerry
Hi Gerry what a megga job well done. I know you are getting a new body but you could run her as a patched up 50 like some of the real ones do Glorius 50033 ran in green primer last year on the SVR thank heaven mine are the older dc ring feild motors. Regards Ron @Willenhall Parkway.
What a great idea Ronald and thank you for answering a question as I have seen pictures and wondered why that was going on. I like the idea of making her look like that or run down. Cheers and thanks again, Jerry
Hi Gerry yeh it was weired seeing 50033 running at the SVR in green primer even more weird seeing names, qoutes and anickdotes scrawled all over her. When I asked they said it was people who had worked on her or had an association with her. I found out later I think this is true for a minimum of ￡5 you could put your note and name on. I would like to have done that as I had lots of memories with 50033 travelling with a friend who I remembered on that day last year as he is no longer around so the day was tinged with saddnes.
@@ronaldmorritt4100 Thats amazing but I dont think it would suit my layout Lol. I will give it a try weathering her to hide the marks/cracks. Thanks again, Jerry
Nice video showing your determination to get there. With regards to the cracks you could do what 'back street car body workshops' do "Gob it and spray it" as one of them put it to me once about an old car I had! Go to Dean park re paint spraying his oxford coaches for tips. May I suggest you send an e-mail to Hornby they should reply with a wiring diagram. Simon kohler was recently interviewed by Dave at Dean Park and he did mention they will try and help whenever possible! You have a great layout and all admiration to you for modelling in parts of the world that are remote with regards to errrrr modelling
Thank you for the suggestion and pointers. I was given the same advice re my old TR7!!!! Lol! I should as you suggested try Hornby first. I really do want to get the job completed. Are you in Borneo? Cheers Jerry
@@jerryallen34 I was for 5 years in Sarawak Malaysia part! I left 2 years ago and now in Thailand. I miss Borneo and go visit when I can. If you ever get the opportunity to go, go, its an amazing place. Start off with Kuching, very cosmopolitan city with lots to do and see!
@@davidfromborneo259 Sounds really interesting and right up my street! Thanks
I got a new Hornby 56 last year that was completely seized. It was the grease that had solidified and set solid. Took the whole thing apart, cleaned it up and lubricated with clipper oil. Runs a treat now .
I think it seems to be a common issue which one should not have to deal with straight out of the box. Happy to hear yours is okay. Best. Jerry and thanks for taking the time to comment and watch.
Useful information for the 50 owners ...
Thanks Dave they are great loco and amazingly smooth. Cheers, Jerry
Great video Jerry. You're not alone having issues with hornby pcbs, I've had a 56, 50 and 31 go pop luckily no other damage other than chassis rot on the 31 so got off lightly compared to you. Good luck finding a body I'm sure flea Bay will come up trumps.
You might as well do the 37 next.
Cheers Paul
Yep Paul you are right, the 37 next. I look at my 31 which runs really really well and do think of you experience because mine is right in the middle of the batch that should of rotted and feel for you. The 31s like the 50/56/60/43s are brilliant and to replace yours when it's not your fault is expensive and a bitter pill. That is one reason I wanted to get this 50 going again. Cheers and appreciate your input as always Paul. Jerry
What a great idea Ronald and thank you for answering a question as I have seen pictures and wondered why that was going on. I like the idea of making her look like that or run down. Cheers and thanks again, Jerry
Hi Jerry, I am just watching
St Michael's Hill video "HELP! Trying to Fix Hornby Class 56" His PCB is 1621-X009R5. I can see yours is 1621-X009R6 but they look identical on comparison. Might be worth giving it a watch to see if this can help you, Next time i am on the layout ill take a few of our class 50's bodies off and see if any of ours carry the same PCB.
Yes excellent, and thank you again. Cheers Jerry
Jerry, check out my most recent video, I have made one this evening for you. Hopefully it helps.
Achilles was killed but has been brought back to life
Hi mate, not a steamer I'm afraid but thanks for watching and all your support and input outside YT. Really appreciated Jerry
Four locos, four different set ups, nor can I but themselves the breaks Brian I guess. Thanks for the comments. Cheers Jerry
Jerry, can the 'cracks' be better lined up to near-invisible, then carefully glued from the inside? Such a lovely locomotive, as you rightly mentioned, I was wondering if it could actually be 'saved' without requiring that new body you mentioned. Al.
Hi Alan, possibly with heavy weathering there is a chance. The cracks are quite wide and do not appear to close effectively. Thanks Jerry
@@jerryallen34 That's a pity - your son did 'quite a number' on it then - unfortunate. I've seen many, with 'a little adjustment' and even before gluing the line's barely visible, so I was thinking it could be lined up and glued, even reinforced, from inside. Never mind. It would drive me mad!! Main reason I hate DCC Sound - none get the 'chuffs' right on steam locos. Hornby's on the Lord Nelson is a joke. It's a twin pulse 4 cylinder - 8 / revolution. It nearly starts at 8 when slow, then when travelling at ~45mph equivalent, it's barely 2 / rev! I watched videos of the real preserved one in my hotel boredom y'day, and it definitely remains at 8 until no longer detectable. Al.
@@alantoms3263 A lot of people say the same as you have pointed out Alan, I and oblivious to it at the moment but I am sure I'll learn eventually!! Lol! Cheers mate, Jerry
Some Valleho model filler will fill those cracks with careful use, sanding and repainting, you shouldnt see any join.
Hi Jerry, We have some spare worm box covers, not sure how long it would take to get to you but can send you one if needed?
Thanks, Jerry, lots of care to learn there.
Did you buzz out each axle to confirm connection?
Have you tried checking the voltage required for the lights? I understand that the pcbs differ to provide extra subtlety, but could still be bypassed with the right resistors.
What light functions does her sister have?
Those sliding contacts behind the cab are great at production (new) but look like they will always be a problem as they age.
Another motor to work out why they seize, and to see if it can be reversed. Time, but no cost, and I see that you have mechanical skills and patience enough to try this.
Finally, having clipped the louvres out of the body, did you have enough slats to rebuild the original? A sticky glue (or tacky wax) might hold things in place once positioned, and make the rebuild less complicated. (Sticky glue sound silly; a glue that is viscous so the item is held in place by the glue before the glue sets, almost exactly unlike superglue)
And filling the cracks in the body does not look beyond your skill-set; heavy weathering will hide the subsequent paint-job, if it is not sufficient for you expectations.
Thanks for the exhibition.
Hi Tom and thanks for the comments and suggestions. Yes I did check each wheel was picking up. I had to heavily edit the video to keep it to 30 minutes, or try! There are a few demos missing because of that. I agree weathering will hide a lot and a may yet try that. The louvers are very fiddly!!!! Hats off the the person in the factory. Thanks again Tom, Cheers, Jerry
I got a few locos waiting to move form west nsw Australia to USA I hope when they get here they don’t have sizsed moters but it’s been very dry for the last. 2 years
I think anything fro PNG gets a good going over Lol. Thanks for the comments and good luck with the move. When do you go? Cheers Jerry
I whent form nsw Australia to wy USA so when the rest of my trains get over you would recommend a good oil and grease?
@@doggerbendrailway6002 I use Peco super lube as a base then cover with Vaseline. If you are in a hot environment the super lube does dry so the vasaline seals it in so to speak. Cheers.
Before I left I oil them all with oil I got off eBay call licwad bearing and greased them with vaslie
From the set up of the pick ups, worm gear and circuit board it looks awfully similar to the Atlas set up in their American locos. I wonder if they are made in the same factory in China?
hi Jerry
wow what a mess but you done an amazing job on it
must of took you some time to fix?
if you get a new shall you coiuld always use the old as scrap parts on layout (only an idea)
keep safe arp
Hi Adi yes thats a good idea although im rubbish at that sort of thing lol. Cheers mate and thanks for watching. Jerry
I think anything fro PNG gets a good going over Lol. Thanks for the comments and good luck with the move. When do you go? Cheers Jerry
Good grief, this has persuaded me not to try a home repair. Far too fiddly 😞
Hi is it possible to clean wheels and pickups while the bogie is still connected to chassis?
Hi, You can clean the wheels no issues but to clean the pick ups and Axle pins, which is a must, you will have to take the bogie apart. You can still do that without taking the body off. Trust that helps, Jerry
@@jerryallen34 thanks it does.
Great video! Very helpful. Do you know if I can obtain a coupling cam cover for a class 50 from anywhere? 100th comment as well! Subbed.
Sorry for the slow reply I am only just catching up. Thanks for the kind comment. No I do not know but suggest you try the usual suspects, Peters Spares etc. Many thanks for the sub to, appreciated. Jerry
Chooks in the background!
Yes Sudanese nomadic family in suburbia! Cheers Jerry
Well Allan not quite live like your recent how too's as it would of been too long and the language deteriorating re the pcb lol. Thanks and happy you found it interesting. They are so smooth why can all locos run as well as the 50s? Cheers mate. Jerry
Haha, small world! And I'm thinking of you whilst doing this video because I know you are such a class 50 fan, and then I watch your class 56 video with similar issues to mine. I now have to find the correct pcb if you have any ideas, gratefully received. A new body though may be more difficult. Take care and thanks for commenting, Jerry
Hi Jerry, had the same thing with my 50s with pcb's which don't match
Haha, small world! And I'm thinking of you whilst doing this video because I know you are such a class 50 fan, and then I watch your class 56 video with similar issues to mine. I now have to find the correct pcb if you have any ideas, gratefully received. A new body though may be more difficult. Take care and thanks for commenting, Jerry
@@jerryallen34 Try google images and type what you are looking for, its often helped me out. I've had the with my 50's having different PCB boards. Is Superb not the same since they came from the same family? Susannah
@@Pixie586 That is a good suggestion thanks. Yes the pcb on Superb must be near as dam it the same shouldnt it?? Lol! Will give that one a go and try and find it. Many thanks Jerry
Any new reviews from Queensland?
Hello Guy, I have just uploaded and update. Cheers Jerry
Hi Jerry Fantastic job you have amazing patience. How long did it take to do. Colin
Collins N Gauge Hi Colin, thanks and glad you liked it. About 3 hours and a lot of faffing around with the pcb which took most of the time. Finally dawned on me it was the wrong one!!!! Thanks and cheers Jerry
Thank you for the suggestion and pointers. I was given the same advice re my old TR7!!!! Lol! I should as you suggested try Hornby first. I really do want to get the job completed. Are you in Borneo? Cheers Jerry
Hello my class 50 ark Royal front and rear lights flicker any thoughts
Hi sorry for the slow reply. Yes, towards the end of the video i point out why the lights sometimes dont work and what to do about it. Its simple the metal contact tabs get pressed flat in the cab area, they just need gentle bending out. I show this on the vid. Hope it helps. Jerry