I understand Axial wants to keep the price of its trucks down but i feel in the long term their decision to use so much plastic is going to hurt them in the world market. It's a shame because the SCX 10-2 Blazer is one of the rigs i was considering but at the last moment i went with a TRX 4 Sport simply because it will require less upgrades. By the way thanks for recommending the Sport to me in another comment i made, i am very happy with it.
The rest of the industry has pushed them and upped the game now. We hope they respond by addressing these issues out of th RTR box, much like Element RC
@@tgags050 Most RTR ESCs aren't very good. The thing is they go hand in hand with most RTR steering servos also not being very good. And if you are going to replace the steering servo you might as well spend the $42 on the HobbyWing 1080 ESC that will allow you to push 7.4v through the internal BEC and also get a much better ESC at the same time than spending that same amount (I know the traxxas BEC is $40) on putting an external BEC on the truck to run your new servo. IMHO a HobbyWing 1080 and new steering servo combo is by far the best immediate RTR crawler upgrade nearly across the board.
@@RCReviewChannel I have the SCX10 II '69 Blazer and it came with Tactic TTX300 3-channel radio, it's what is in Axial website too. I just ordered the SCX10 II 1955 F-100 Ford and that looks to have the Spektrum STX2 transmitter, hopefully not. :D - TRX-4 Traxx owner who thinks TRX-4 is not good enough to be bought again.
#1: Servo & servo horn #2: Weights, wheels, tires #3: Get metal gears for transmission, if they didn't come with your RTR #4: Replace things as they break, or fail. Most mods after the first 3 will likely be more of a want, than a need. I have two Axials that pretty much qualify for a Stock Class, and they keep up with $1000 rigs for less than half the cost.
I wasn't trying to sound like a stinker, just tried to simplify it a little with a beginner in mind, while keeping the budget low. I enjoy the videos, keep it up, thank you.
Shane Mattson great point! 👍🏽 that helps me a lot because I was gonna get all of the upgrades first like metal everything like braces knuckles axles bead locks etc then I thought to myself why not get the rig first then just upgrade as they break etc (10.2 Cherokee or the builders kit still undecided 🧐)
@@lstruggy I got my first Crawler last November. I wanted the kit, but I knew I couldn't finish it for less money than the RTR. So, I went with the RTR Cherokee. Fried the servo, and stripped the plastic gears, but I knew they were weak points, from watching review videos. The wheels & tires were just to improve performance. Haven't had to replace anything else yet, which has let me focus on bodies, paint, and optional accessories. I'm really enjoying it.
I gotta say the hobbywing fusion was the biggest upgrade I've seen because of the slow crawl ability, for single speed crawlers it makes all the difference because you can have a bit more wheel speed and still have that down low grunt.
TOTAL AGREEMENT! Only thing I'd change is the order of some... *#1 must be REPLACING the Tactic Servo and PLASTIC Horn!!* 😲 That's a terrific list, and thanks for the low cost options. But by priority, Servo/Horn FIRST! I've had GREAT Luck with Redcat Gen 7 Pro/Gen 8 Shocks (SAME). On Evilbay, you can find NTO Stores (New Take Off), that sell those Shocks in *sets of 4* for UNDER $25!!! THAT'S Value! 👍👍 Everything on that List makes necessary upgrades. I'll add one... After the Horizon takeover, the Chassis Crossmembers are now a soft, Noodly Plastic! Worth upgrading those too. 😉 Carmine ✈🚂🚙
I did tires and wheels on deadbolt/light bar on bumper/ wheel spacers/ faster motor/ new esc off Amazon/ radio link receiver/running 2s. Just ordered links. I really love this rc car. The only thing thing I have replaced is the steering servo and esc. And I can let kids play with it and they can’t even break it. It’s great! Oh and I hope to do my shocks. Still running the leaky plastic ones. Happy new year btw! 🎉
I just bought an Axial SCX10II Blazer because I'm new and though it looked cool. I have been running it every where stock and though it was great. I have my first competition coming next month so thanks for all the advice I might be doing some upgrades when I know more.
I'm late to the party so I'm sure plenty of people have mentioned overdrive gears in the front. I've got that 1.9 Wraith sitting there and I changed Tires with some Heavy Beadlock Wheels and Overdrove it and it made a World of Difference. Oh yeah, I have a Flysky GT5 radio so the Receiver was changed right away also and it didn't take long to Burn up the Servo. The rest will get changed a little at a time as it breaks but I think the Links are next so it slides on the rocks better. Maybe some Brass Knuckles. Thanks for the Video!
People can talk about plastic and how many upgrades the SCX10 II needs, but fact is, it out crawls just about any other RtR. It also comes with at least one if not multiple (10+ links) spares in the box for most plastic bits, including an extra skid, 3 steering horns, etc. You can buy a SCX10 II, never upgrade a thing and be totally happy with it.
First 10 batteries thru my axial wraith, burned esc, destroyed motor, stripped servo horn, bead locks dismounted many times, shredded trans gears, all shocks leaked 100% oil , axle end parts all stripped and became loose, blew rear axle out of housing , front axle dog bone end snapped off. Wheel axle hubs stripped. Bead locks bolts stripped at screw threads. My trx4 flawless. I do enjoy the wraith. If you buy an axial be ready to drive, brake, repair and repeat.
Brilliant, I can't afford any of these top crawlers myself but I'm totally hooked on your videos, reviews, help and all the information you provide, keep up the great work and keep these videos coming 🚙💨😉👍
Good advices ! Tactic servo has broken in 2 of 3 models in a few hours. Servo horn in 1 of 3 after changing to Lewansoul 20Kg metal servo (best for less than 20 Euro, we have them on all models). Tires are really strange...even after some modifications are quite hard and have few traction, we finally trash them ! Only Honcho seems work quite well with stock tires, curiosity better than Blazer (with apparently the same stock tires ?!?). Using Traxxas stock Canyon Trails the performance changes dramatically, also cheap Super Swapers (with some modifications, cutting a part of central teeth) are quite good without interfering with body. Tactic stock radio is not the one I see in your video, and is quite good. All the other electronic is - in my opinion - a second lever of upgrade, not necessary even if maybe useful. We also put bumpers more inside as possible and cut off some few slides of the bottom body in front and rear, to get a better approach/departure angle (really awful in Axial Blazer !) and avoiding body shell hanging everywhere, letting bumpers to be the lower part in the angles of the body !
Mine is finally coming in after being on back order for almost three months. I really had to battle the urge to jump into the SCX10 3 but wasn't too keen on the portals and a number of other issues you brought up on your video. I'm glad I waited. Our E10's have been keeping us entertained though and thanks for the recommendation on the GT3C. Great value so I grabbed the Orange and Silver versions 🤣 "Save money to spend money" so true and what an addicting hobby. Sige pre, salamat po! We are enjoying your channel out here in Hilo, HI.
You were right about servo horn. I stripped the horn first week. I was going easy. Noticed aftermarket servos and horns hit the drop mount for track bar
Depending on what axial vehicle my list would be: 1. Aluminum Servo Horn/Servo 2. Wheels and tires/foams (crawler innovations dual stage are amazing) 3. HW 1080 quicrun ESC (has 15 parameters of tuning and made and night day difference on my rig plus BEC is adjustable) 4. Holmes Hobbies motor (I am running crawlmaster expert 540 16t..its buttery smooth) 5. Hot Racing overdrive gears in the front axle (helps climbs/decents, turn sharper) 6. Incision universals (stronger then axial universals, couple dollars more, better steering, eliminates stress on C-hub) 7. Spektrum DX5C transmitter with 5 channel receiver ( not the cheapest transmitter but works fantastic) 8. Links (1/4" solid stainless steel is stronger then plastic, added weight helps COG, comes with revo rodends that don't stretch) 9. Better shocks (I run proline powerstrokes with swapped o-rings, I used Bunta x-rings and used green slime to stop leaks)
As one with a umg10 also. How do you like the extra forward mass? I already feel that it has more than enough forward mass. If anything it feels a bit light in the ass end to me. On steep decents the rear wants to buck up a bit easy. Have a carbon fiber LCG battery tray, servo relocation mount (metal), aluminium shock towers, OD gears in the front axle, aluminum rock sliders and a set of alientac military beadlocks (look awesome and add a bit of down low mass) The OD gears and LCG battery tray were the biggest performance bumps i did i think. More centered and lower mass within the chassis, and the front wheels now help keep that front end sucked down alot more. 👍
As a owner of a UMG10 you would know they have a high center of gravedy from the beginning so with that said moving the rear wheel backward and running a droop setup allowed me to lower the cg down making it climb and descend much better....it also helps to use smaller batterys and adjustable drag break...
@@tomandrews5392 i run a little 1300mah 3s gens ace. I think sub 4oz. 540 can HH motor and 1080esc. Light weight setup. Lcg battery tray combined with the small pack my battery now sits below my motor by a few MM. Stretching out the rear wheel base doesn't lower the CG rather moves the CG around. Longer wheelbase means better climbing and downhill abilities. When you're short and stubby its it's easier to tip over. I like my short wheelbase and i don't want to chop up my rear bed fenders to allow the 12 or 12.3 WB options. Bringing as much mass as i already had down more and putting OD gears in my front axle helped mine a huge load. Side hills better and with the front wheels spinning faster than the rear it helps pull itself over hills. And coming down them with the rear wheels spinning slower it helps keep the rear end tucked down amd digging into the ground. I weighed my body painted and fully assembled and it was 1 1/4 pound. Thats where all the high CG comes into play. Driving style gas a huge impact on setup but i definitely already feel my rear end is way too light. It already has 60% of the weight up front if not a little bit more. Mainly due to the body (cab forward design) I'd definitely look into the low CG battery trays. They have aluminum, metal and carbonfiber ones for whichever amount of weight you'd like to add. Lower in the chassis, Centered and laying flat pack versus off to the right and standing on its side and sitting ontop of the chassis comparatively. It's by no means a serious comp rig but ive made it into a solid little trail truck. How ive gone about it atleast its definitely become a much better performing SWB truck.
Howdy - I’ve taken your advice on quite few products (Hobbywing, Savox, Holmes, ProLine, etc.) with very positive results, but I need to let you and your subscribers know the disappoint in the Power HD 23 kg servo. I ordered one and it arrived DOA so I returned it to Amazon and they sent a replacement which overheated and also caused my radio to run sporadically. In checking Amazon reviews it turns out that a high percentage of purchasers had similar issues. The Animos servo so far has been pretty good, but I think I’ll stay with the Savox 1210. Just thought you should be aware. Thanks.
I am still driving my original SCX 10. I really haven’t felt the need to upgrade just yet to the SCX 10ii. I bought mine used with pro line scale shocks, Pro line bead lock wheels and wheel weights. I’ve added the front angled battery mount for better weight distribution and an RC four-wheel-drive front bumper with winch. Which was really probably not needed but I also added a 200 ounce air Tronics servo which is steel axle mounted. The original owner had already added a chicken 35 turn motor and speed controller And MI P Drive shafts. I really like buying used trucks that have good upgrades already added to them so then I just have to add a few extra things for my personal taste.
So far I’ve done wheels and tires. Went with the proline and heavy alloy wheels, rc4wd King shocks, and swapped the motor with a stock Tamiya motor. Same low end torque but much more wheel speed on the high end
Thank you for your good review but my understanding of this is you buy it and replace virtually everything but the chassis or just buy the kit and buy every piece you want on it
I personally have the axial scx10 2 ford f100 so it had metal gears and links 1-first thing I did was wheels and tries(bead locks for a red at gen 8 with proline foams) 2- shock I am running redcat aluminum shocks way better than the stock plastic ones they lost oil after a couple uses. 3- servo! All metal and a metal servo horn I’m running a 25kg the red one off Amazon 4-motor which some may want I like to have a little speed with my rig the motor I running is a red cat 17 turn 550 can 5- esc I running a hobby wing brushed 1080 wp 6- I need to upgrade this next but a reviver and transmitter. Also I got most of these parts from my brother who has a couple rc cars I also running 2s in my rig. And different links the sock ones suckkkkk there’s so much play I have new ones in the mail.
Adding #8 Incision stainless steel links (durable and better sliding over obstacles) #9 ScalerFab front bumper (for better approach angle) #10 Honcho body with roll cage (for improved approach and departure angles)
Awesome! I just finished finally getting my motor and esc in mine. Didn't think to watch mod videos just modded as I drove mine. #1 for me putting washers on the body mount posts to make it more solid. #2 was tires and wheels with some bbs. 2 coreless high torque servo. 3 remote because I dropped and broke mine. 4 shocks and replaced all plastic arms with metal ones. #5 finally the motor. Still trying to figure out what I wanna do next....
I'm new to the crawler hobby, I'm coming from RC armor. Bought my 1st RTRs, an SCX10.2 Blazer and an HPI FJ. The Axial wheel / tire combo was woobly out of the box. The foam inserts were too big and wide. Basically same size as what came with my Pit bull tires. CA was overdone causing binding and lumping inside causing wooble. And as expected, (thanks to your vids) sloooooow. 540 motors work great on tanks. I have a SGX10 G6 kit coming in the mail alomg with your recommendations for budget upgrade parts. That said, future builds will be using the HPI Venture SBK as a platform. Hopefully they become available soon. LOVE your vids, keep them coming!!
I put a metal front servo/bumper mount, and an lcg metal bettery tray up front that lets the battery lay flat instead of on its side. Those really stiffen the chassis and add more weight up front. Chinese metal beadlocks that add good low weight. Also have GRC inner fenders and the middle rear chassis fender which also adds rigidity. My next upgrades are a savox 1251, not really impressed with the 20$ cheap servo in there now, and I'm thinking about metal axle housings and some upgraded drive shafts. Scx10 ii is great after dumping an extra couple hundred bucks into it! I got the xj kit, don't think i'l ever buy an RTR.
I just bought the axial deadbolt ii. It seems to be a decent rig to start out with. That being said I went with it for the fact that I could do upgrades and by doing them learn about the vehicle. I know there's much better vehicles out there but for 299 it seems to be doing pretty well. All I've done so far is put a set of super swamper bead lock wheels and tires on it. Next is going to be shocks. I've enjoyed this car so far for sure
Depending how much you spend on your rig, the fun thing I like is to get so cheap as possible on non race cars, with the covid-19 in mind Im not allowed to race, so my old scx10 get's its well served attention, running a silvercan Tamiya motor and old shorty packs gifs it the power and wheelspin I need, no need for 3s electrics. The steering servo I have is a analog from blue bird. The rig self is 3rd hands and with the replacing of bearings and some gears I keep it alive. For sure the best rc car I have.
Great recommendations. I have installed Traxxas shocks, new aluminum bead lock wheels and tires, and a 25kg servo on my SCX10 II. I also have a Hobbywing 1080 ESC and FS-BS6 receiver on the way (the receiver will allow me to use my GT5 radio with the SCX10 II). My SCX10 II came with steel links, so no upgrade is required. Due to the location of the motor, transmission, and battery tray on the SCX10 II Ford F100 chassis a 550 motor will not fit without shortening the tray at the motor end. Once modified, some standard length hard case batteries may no longer fit in the tray. That is not a problem if using Zeee soft case 3S batteries or similar sized batteries.
I got the Hobbywing ESC and FlySky receiver installed. What a difference they make over the stock components - the SCX10 II Ford F100 is much more controllable at slow speed with the GT5 radio system, and has better modulation throughout the entire speed range. With the new ESC I was able to increase the servo voltage to 7.4 volts from 6.0 volts, which increases both the speed and the strength of the servo.
Thanks for your explanation, but I wish that the transmission of the crown could help me to have more force to climb rocks stronger better for my 2 speed transmission for an alxial SCX 10 1/10 Rc and a pinion for a 550 35T engine
Just bought the Jeep Wrangler yesterday. So far it’s pretty good. Haven’t really beaten it yet but speed control and turning radius is decent. Tires aren’t the worst but one of the wheels is bent right out of the box. Shocks also look extremely flimsy
the servo and horn first. metal gears second maybe all links third After 3 months of crawling vertually every day on my backyard course these are the things i have damaged or broken. My course gets harder everytime i use it as i like to challenge myself and the Honcho. Wheels and tyres dont look flash but to be honest with my sandstone rocks and concrete bits they grip incredibly well My steering link was a bit bowed so i did all the links Shocks seem fine to me but look crap..bit sticky at first but loosen up. Overall i love the Honcho scx10ii..the servo and horn and gears would have lasted longer if i didnt give my 9 and 6yr old kids a go lol
I'd love to buy a axial RTR because they have so many cool body options but it seems liked I'd end up spending a fortune to get it to perform like my trx4 sport. Might pick up the Cherokee builders kit instead.
Good video good info. I have the Flysky GT5 radio, love it, little more but well worth it. I use channel 5 control my 20Kg servo winch with esc. Duratrax Deepwood 1.9, xtraspeed metal differential housing, RC4WD c-hubs, knuckles and rear lock-up. 25Kg servo + boom racing low profile horn. 1080 esc. G-transition shocks droop setup. sheruns pretty well. Thanks
Every up grade you mentioned I think I've done to my scx11. Well all except for one/rwo. Motor/esc I don't think I've upgraded them yet. Only thing is could you be alittle most spific on turns for a non brushless motor. Like upgrading to a 55 turn or whatever you think would work best? What kv should I use if I go brushless? Thanks for all your great advise and opinions. I enjoy watching your videos and the info you provide. So I thank you again. Kenny G.
Francis the choice of body is also an important factor. On my scx10ii, I have the chevy 67 axial body. The body is longer in the front than most models. In descent of steep angles, I sometimes get my Truck stuck in a position where the front bumper is touching ground and my front wheels are unable to get me out of the situation . The wheels are barely touching the ground.... My Honcho just makes it easily since the body is much shorter.
Thank for the information I might be buying a used SCX 10 II from a buddy and he has a few little upgrades but ill definitely have to go further with upgrades.
The best upgrade is buy the scx10 II raw builders kit instead a rtr 😁 and choose a good motor, a esc 1080 and servo with metal gears, I bought a SRT. Of course a good tyres and metal beadlock. In mine I just want to add metal shocks and adapters to the towers to put the shocks in a better position and that's it 🤘💪😁
I love the Jeep Wrangler SCX10.2, but after making metal upgrades, roll cage, interior, etc. I might as well buy the Cross RC Demon... since it comes w/ all metal parts and a hard body.
Honestly idk why they included 30w oil. But my scx10 ii building kit only has about 2 inches if that of flex before tires come off the ground. If i were to lift the back left tire the tire wouodnt even go higher then where tye dif was sitting
I have a SCX 10 II Jeep Wrangler and would like to upgrade it but no one can answer my question about running the stock led lights off a different receiver; I have the flysky g3ctb radio and 6 channel receiver. Can I run my stock lights from it and not burn them out. Have upgraded the motor to Holmes hobby crawler master 550 21T brushed and it runs great. It has metal suspension links. Thanks for the great video's and information. Dave Chatelle
How can I get more flex outa my element enduro? I’m running 100mm shocks front and rear and cnc portal axles. Linkages are steel 313mm wheel base. I have my rear shocks angled about 30 degrees front shocks are vertical. It got pretty decent flex as is but I believe I could get allot more. I just need to know what I need to get. Great video by the way.
Brass hubs front and rear and I've took my tyres off and stuck sticky wheel weights from my local car garage all around the metal disc that keeps the tyres on my beadlocks and taped over them so they dont come undone if they get wet then stick tyres on again, adds 60g per wheel to keep wheels on the ground and keep the c.o.g low
Bit of an update the blazer has some better stuff on it now not sure if they went cheaper elsewhere but i wanted to mention the tires are now falken branded and seem much softer and there is a new controller that seems much better. the drive shafts are elso angled not sure what that does exatly but maybe anew video would be great:)
I purchased the 1.9 Wraith, it was barely out of the box and I literally replaced everything 2300kv Hobbywing Axe combo Power HD DW25LV Waterproof Servo Incision Links Incision Uni's SSD Pro 44 Axle Housings SSD Aluminum Chubs SSD Heavy Duty Brass Knuckles SSD Rear Link Mounts SSD 90mm Shocks Yeah Racing Light Kit Spektrum 3 Channel Reciver
I just got a deal on a wraith Spawn. It was too good to pass up. In stock form I hate it. It drives bad honestly. It shows great potential. I've already made a list similar to yours. Still not sure what motor and esc I'm gonna use though.
Thanks heaps I've just gotten into this with my 4 year old son have an scx10 ii trail honcho so I bought two we are having so much fun so far all we've done is servo horns and yes we have leaking shocks I just ordered some Proline BF Goodrich crawlers in the predator thanks heaps #phils_offroad
I'm wondering if Axial has addressed the universal issue. I just got my kit opened and started building it. I bought new shocks and universals to go ahead and install from the beginning. I purchased a set of Incision universals and compared them with the originals that came in the kit and noticed that they are almost identical. Being new to this hobby I'm not sure what the originals may have looked like in comparison before. The only difference I can see is that the Incisions are a slightly lighter color.
In my opinion, you missed one. That is the scx10 II lift kit. It really matters what you are doing with the truck. I, would use mine for mudding, so I would need that. I could see why a crawler would not need that though.
I do agree with tires first but the #2 upgrade 100% should be the servo horn my first real run with it my plastic horn was trash in under 20 minutes of use under normal slow use it just didn’t hold in tight spaces when crawling and using the steering to body shift to keep from roll overs then everything else I agree on the horn is trash
I have an scx10.2 jeep cherokee it droops to either side until I pick it up and sit down gently then it will sit level until the shocks flex then it leans again, it does it with stock shocks and with desert lizard shocks, what is causing it to do this
Hello, thank you for the videos! I have a scx10ii deadbolt and I really want a brushless esc motor combo that I can plug and play, kind of like the hobbywing fusion but thats too big. Any suggestions?
I thought you were going to make a comment about the gearbox changing for that other option that is lower to help fit bodies without cutting or trimming that much
I just got a used Chevy Blazer SCX10 2...added some 108mm integy aluminum shocks, everything else was previously upgraded ...what other bodies can I switch to??
I thought the tactic servo had metal gears? The axial Blazer is my first axial crawler. I believe it has cvds all around, the bumpers do stick out a lot and I wondered what was it good price option on that? I love your videos and thank you for the information.
I was thinking of upgrading with some redcat gen8 aluminum shocks. How do they perform? Would it be a good bang for the buck since they are much more affordable than other brands.
I find it frustrating that I just spent a grand on two Axial trucks and only 5 packs in we have saggy leaking shocks on both, a stripped servo horn, lights front and rear failed on one, a RC malfunction sent one off at full throttle today, and the tires are mounted crooked. As I shop out solutions I feel like I got bamboozled by Axial.
I had a flysky radio and receiver it went bad 1 month own and their warranty depo would not contact me back at all I left comments on their Facebook then they answered me and the guy tried to help me but flysky main office corp still did not honor any warranty they language barrier between me USA and them Japan was the biggest issue their Facebook guy spoke both language perfect so I had a mixed experience their Facebook guy I give him a 10 for his help flysky corp office and warranty depo I give a below 0 way -0 they never would answer my emails to them directly but threw their Facebook guy who he got mad at them for how his own company treated me
Aloe of upgrades here 😉.... why buy the SCX10 II if you have to upgrade that much? On what point is it better than TRX4 ? Is it the price difference ? I am asking because I am going to buy a crawler soon😉... but cant decide 🧐
I’ve just picked up the 550 Xerun 3300kv and it doesn‘t fit to the SCX10 II chassis at all.. Any help? It is kinda sad it was 240 Euros with the combo..
I understand Axial wants to keep the price of its trucks down but i feel in the long term their decision to use so much plastic is going to hurt them in the world market. It's a shame because the SCX 10-2 Blazer is one of the rigs i was considering but at the last moment i went with a TRX 4 Sport simply because it will require less upgrades. By the way thanks for recommending the Sport to me in another comment i made, i am very happy with it.
The rest of the industry has pushed them and upped the game now. We hope they respond by addressing these issues out of th RTR box, much like Element RC
@@tgags050 Most RTR ESCs aren't very good. The thing is they go hand in hand with most RTR steering servos also not being very good. And if you are going to replace the steering servo you might as well spend the $42 on the HobbyWing 1080 ESC that will allow you to push 7.4v through the internal BEC and also get a much better ESC at the same time than spending that same amount (I know the traxxas BEC is $40) on putting an external BEC on the truck to run your new servo. IMHO a HobbyWing 1080 and new steering servo combo is by far the best immediate RTR crawler upgrade nearly across the board.
I think it keeps the price down on stuff many people will replace anyway.
I have the scx10 ii. It's literally shit out of the box. You have to spend about $100 to make it decent
@@RCReviewChannel I have the SCX10 II '69 Blazer and it came with Tactic TTX300 3-channel radio, it's what is in Axial website too. I just ordered the SCX10 II 1955 F-100 Ford and that looks to have the Spektrum STX2 transmitter, hopefully not. :D
- TRX-4 Traxx owner who thinks TRX-4 is not good enough to be bought again.
Brass c hubs. Huge performance gains. I just drove it hard and replaced things until it stopped breaking.
I like your attitude.
#1: Servo & servo horn
#2: Weights, wheels, tires
#3: Get metal gears for transmission, if they didn't come with your RTR
#4: Replace things as they break, or fail.
Most mods after the first 3 will likely be more of a want, than a need. I have two Axials that pretty much qualify for a Stock Class, and they keep up with $1000 rigs for less than half the cost.
thank you for that
I wasn't trying to sound like a stinker, just tried to simplify it a little with a beginner in mind, while keeping the budget low. I enjoy the videos, keep it up, thank you.
Shane Mattson great point! 👍🏽 that helps me a lot because I was gonna get all of the upgrades first like metal everything like braces knuckles axles bead locks etc then I thought to myself why not get the rig first then just upgrade as they break etc (10.2 Cherokee or the builders kit still undecided 🧐)
@@lstruggy I got my first Crawler last November. I wanted the kit, but I knew I couldn't finish it for less money than the RTR. So, I went with the RTR Cherokee. Fried the servo, and stripped the plastic gears, but I knew they were weak points, from watching review videos. The wheels & tires were just to improve performance. Haven't had to replace anything else yet, which has let me focus on bodies, paint, and optional accessories. I'm really enjoying it.
just starting out and was looking at the scx10II 2000 jeep cherokee, could anyone give me tips on upgrading it and if it's a good rig
I gotta say the hobbywing fusion was the biggest upgrade I've seen because of the slow crawl ability, for single speed crawlers it makes all the difference because you can have a bit more wheel speed and still have that down low grunt.
TOTAL AGREEMENT! Only thing I'd change is the order of some...
*#1 must be REPLACING the Tactic Servo and PLASTIC Horn!!* 😲
That's a terrific list, and thanks for the low cost options. But by priority, Servo/Horn FIRST!
I've had GREAT Luck with Redcat Gen 7 Pro/Gen 8 Shocks (SAME). On Evilbay, you can find NTO Stores (New Take Off), that sell those Shocks in *sets of 4* for UNDER $25!!! THAT'S Value! 👍👍
Everything on that List makes necessary upgrades. I'll add one...
After the Horizon takeover, the Chassis Crossmembers are now a soft, Noodly Plastic! Worth upgrading those too. 😉
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Good advice there. All our plastic horns have indeed failed on the field.
The 1080 ESC and those servos are an amazing value. I have them both on my gen8 and my TRX4
I did tires and wheels on deadbolt/light bar on bumper/ wheel spacers/ faster motor/ new esc off Amazon/ radio link receiver/running 2s. Just ordered links. I really love this rc car. The only thing thing I have replaced is the steering servo and esc. And I can let kids play with it and they can’t even break it. It’s great!
Oh and I hope to do my shocks. Still running the leaky plastic ones. Happy new year btw! 🎉
I just bought an Axial SCX10II Blazer because I'm new and though it looked cool. I have been running it every where stock and though it was great. I have my first competition coming next month so thanks for all the advice I might be doing some upgrades when I know more.
Great info! I may want to add a gear reduction to my SCX10 II.
I'm late to the party so I'm sure plenty of people have mentioned overdrive gears in the front. I've got that 1.9 Wraith sitting there and I changed Tires with some Heavy Beadlock Wheels and Overdrove it and it made a World of Difference. Oh yeah, I have a Flysky GT5 radio so the Receiver was changed right away also and it didn't take long to Burn up the Servo. The rest will get changed a little at a time as it breaks but I think the Links are next so it slides on the rocks better. Maybe some Brass Knuckles.
Thanks for the Video!
People can talk about plastic and how many upgrades the SCX10 II needs, but fact is, it out crawls just about any other RtR. It also comes with at least one if not multiple (10+ links) spares in the box for most plastic bits, including an extra skid, 3 steering horns, etc.
You can buy a SCX10 II, never upgrade a thing and be totally happy with it.
True but the happiness factor with a TRX4 Sport or Element RC, no upgrades is quite a bit higher.
First 10 batteries thru my axial wraith, burned esc, destroyed motor, stripped servo horn, bead locks dismounted many times, shredded trans gears, all shocks leaked 100% oil , axle end parts all stripped and became loose, blew rear axle out of housing , front axle dog bone end snapped off. Wheel axle hubs stripped. Bead locks bolts stripped at screw threads. My trx4 flawless. I do enjoy the wraith. If you buy an axial be ready to drive, brake, repair and repeat.
I just bought one this morning and am already looking at upgrades.
Brilliant, I can't afford any of these top crawlers myself but I'm totally hooked on your videos, reviews, help and all the information you provide, keep up the great work and keep these videos coming 🚙💨😉👍
Good advices !
Tactic servo has broken in 2 of 3 models in a few hours.
Servo horn in 1 of 3 after changing to Lewansoul 20Kg metal servo (best for less than 20 Euro, we have them on all models).
Tires are really strange...even after some modifications are quite hard and have few traction, we finally trash them !
Only Honcho seems work quite well with stock tires, curiosity better than Blazer (with apparently the same stock tires ?!?).
Using Traxxas stock Canyon Trails the performance changes dramatically, also cheap Super Swapers (with some modifications, cutting a part of central teeth) are quite good without interfering with body.
Tactic stock radio is not the one I see in your video, and is quite good.
All the other electronic is - in my opinion - a second lever of upgrade, not necessary even if maybe useful.
We also put bumpers more inside as possible and cut off some few slides of the bottom body in front and rear, to get a better approach/departure angle (really awful in Axial Blazer !) and avoiding body shell hanging everywhere, letting bumpers to be the lower part in the angles of the body !
Axial has two different grades of rubber but they look the same. That may be why you get different performance!
Mine is finally coming in after being on back order for almost three months. I really had to battle the urge to jump into the SCX10 3 but wasn't too keen on the portals and a number of other issues you brought up on your video. I'm glad I waited. Our E10's have been keeping us entertained though and thanks for the recommendation on the GT3C. Great value so I grabbed the Orange and Silver versions 🤣 "Save money to spend money" so true and what an addicting hobby. Sige pre, salamat po! We are enjoying your channel out here in Hilo, HI.
I think you have the best RC videos out there.
always honest and always helpful.
keep doing what you do I love it.
You were right about servo horn. I stripped the horn first week. I was going easy.
Noticed aftermarket servos and horns hit the drop mount for track bar
Try some servo spacers. Or file a little off the plastic.
@@slickshobby 👍 good idea! Thx. I can just file the servo mount. Its probably 1mm to tall
This was my fix as well. Been fine since. Keep an eye on screws backing out. I run a hot racing servo mount. So thread locker is my best friend.
Depending on what axial vehicle my list would be:
1. Aluminum Servo Horn/Servo
2. Wheels and tires/foams (crawler innovations dual stage are amazing)
3. HW 1080 quicrun ESC (has 15 parameters of tuning and made and night day difference on my rig plus BEC is adjustable)
4. Holmes Hobbies motor (I am running crawlmaster expert 540 16t..its buttery smooth)
5. Hot Racing overdrive gears in the front axle (helps climbs/decents, turn sharper)
6. Incision universals (stronger then axial universals, couple dollars more, better steering, eliminates stress on C-hub)
7. Spektrum DX5C transmitter with 5 channel receiver ( not the cheapest transmitter but works fantastic)
8. Links (1/4" solid stainless steel is stronger then plastic, added weight helps COG, comes with revo rodends that don't stretch)
9. Better shocks (I run proline powerstrokes with swapped o-rings, I used Bunta x-rings and used green slime to stop leaks)
when did traxxas start making scx10 2's hehe
Traxxial
Axiaxxas
I know this is over but it really helps
Great as usual... SCX 10-2 UMG 10 turned the trans around , shorter battery and good servo...
Turning the trans moves the motor forward to improve weight bias
Exactly right with forward weight bias better climing you will need a bowhouse brace forgot to add trx4 stock shocks with springs from Axial UMG10
As one with a umg10 also. How do you like the extra forward mass? I already feel that it has more than enough forward mass. If anything it feels a bit light in the ass end to me. On steep decents the rear wants to buck up a bit easy.
Have a carbon fiber LCG battery tray, servo relocation mount (metal), aluminium shock towers, OD gears in the front axle, aluminum rock sliders and a set of alientac military beadlocks (look awesome and add a bit of down low mass)
The OD gears and LCG battery tray were the biggest performance bumps i did i think.
More centered and lower mass within the chassis, and the front wheels now help keep that front end sucked down alot more. 👍
As a owner of a UMG10 you would know they have a high center of gravedy from the beginning so with that said moving the rear wheel backward and running a droop setup allowed me to lower the cg down making it climb and descend much better....it also helps to use smaller batterys and adjustable drag break...
@@tomandrews5392 i run a little 1300mah 3s gens ace. I think sub 4oz. 540 can HH motor and 1080esc. Light weight setup. Lcg battery tray combined with the small pack my battery now sits below my motor by a few MM. Stretching out the rear wheel base doesn't lower the CG rather moves the CG around. Longer wheelbase means better climbing and downhill abilities. When you're short and stubby its it's easier to tip over. I like my short wheelbase and i don't want to chop up my rear bed fenders to allow the 12 or 12.3 WB options. Bringing as much mass as i already had down more and putting OD gears in my front axle helped mine a huge load. Side hills better and with the front wheels spinning faster than the rear it helps pull itself over hills. And coming down them with the rear wheels spinning slower it helps keep the rear end tucked down amd digging into the ground.
I weighed my body painted and fully assembled and it was 1 1/4 pound. Thats where all the high CG comes into play.
Driving style gas a huge impact on setup but i definitely already feel my rear end is way too light. It already has 60% of the weight up front if not a little bit more. Mainly due to the body (cab forward design)
I'd definitely look into the low CG battery trays. They have aluminum, metal and carbonfiber ones for whichever amount of weight you'd like to add. Lower in the chassis, Centered and laying flat pack versus off to the right and standing on its side and sitting ontop of the chassis comparatively.
It's by no means a serious comp rig but ive made it into a solid little trail truck. How ive gone about it atleast its definitely become a much better performing SWB truck.
Howdy - I’ve taken your advice on quite few products (Hobbywing, Savox, Holmes, ProLine, etc.) with very positive results, but I need to let you and your subscribers know the disappoint in the Power HD 23 kg servo. I ordered one and it arrived DOA so I returned it to Amazon and they sent a replacement which overheated and also caused my radio to run sporadically. In checking Amazon reviews it turns out that a high percentage of purchasers had similar issues. The Animos servo so far has been pretty good, but I think I’ll stay with the Savox 1210. Just thought you should be aware. Thanks.
I am still driving my original SCX 10. I really haven’t felt the need to upgrade just yet to the SCX 10ii. I bought mine used with pro line scale shocks, Pro line bead lock wheels and wheel weights. I’ve added the front angled battery mount for better weight distribution and an RC four-wheel-drive front bumper with winch. Which was really probably not needed but I also added a 200 ounce air Tronics servo which is steel axle mounted. The original owner had already added a chicken 35 turn motor and speed controller And MI P Drive shafts. I really like buying used trucks that have good upgrades already added to them so then I just have to add a few extra things for my personal taste.
So far I’ve done wheels and tires. Went with the proline and heavy alloy wheels, rc4wd King shocks, and swapped the motor with a stock Tamiya motor. Same low end torque but much more wheel speed on the high end
Incision links are a must imo.
agree!!
i was very skeptical the first few times i watch your videos, however youve grown on me lol.
I'm glad I've done 3 of these things. With tires/rims, 1080 hobbywing esc, servo, bumpers, an next will be shocks due to stock shocks leaking
win 3x
Your videos have been a huge help for me keep up the great work
Thank you for your good review but my understanding of this is you buy it and replace virtually everything but the chassis or just buy the kit and buy every piece you want on it
I personally have the axial scx10 2 ford f100 so it had metal gears and links
1-first thing I did was wheels and tries(bead locks for a red at gen 8 with proline foams)
2- shock I am running redcat aluminum shocks way better than the stock plastic ones they lost oil after a couple uses.
3- servo! All metal and a metal servo horn I’m running a 25kg the red one off Amazon
4-motor which some may want I like to have a little speed with my rig the motor I running is a red cat 17 turn 550 can
5- esc I running a hobby wing brushed 1080 wp
6- I need to upgrade this next but a reviver and transmitter.
Also I got most of these parts from my brother who has a couple rc cars I also running 2s in my rig. And different links the sock ones suckkkkk there’s so much play I have new ones in the mail.
Adding
#8 Incision stainless steel links (durable and better sliding over obstacles)
#9 ScalerFab front bumper (for better approach angle)
#10 Honcho body with roll cage (for improved approach and departure angles)
Beautiful advice!
@@RCReviewChannel Just following your lead...LOL
Awesome! I just finished finally getting my motor and esc in mine. Didn't think to watch mod videos just modded as I drove mine. #1 for me putting washers on the body mount posts to make it more solid. #2 was tires and wheels with some bbs. 2 coreless high torque servo. 3 remote because I dropped and broke mine. 4 shocks and replaced all plastic arms with metal ones. #5 finally the motor. Still trying to figure out what I wanna do next....
I'm new to the crawler hobby, I'm coming from RC armor. Bought my 1st RTRs, an SCX10.2 Blazer and an HPI FJ. The Axial wheel / tire combo was woobly out of the box. The foam inserts were too big and wide. Basically same size as what came with my Pit bull tires. CA was overdone causing binding and lumping inside causing wooble. And as expected, (thanks to your vids) sloooooow. 540 motors work great on tanks. I have a SGX10 G6 kit coming in the mail alomg with your recommendations for budget upgrade parts. That said, future builds will be using the HPI Venture SBK as a platform. Hopefully they become available soon. LOVE your vids, keep them coming!!
Great tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😊
Right on good buddy!
I just got a blazer by Axial!!
Classic
I put a metal front servo/bumper mount, and an lcg metal bettery tray up front that lets the battery lay flat instead of on its side. Those really stiffen the chassis and add more weight up front.
Chinese metal beadlocks that add good low weight.
Also have GRC inner fenders and the middle rear chassis fender which also adds rigidity.
My next upgrades are a savox 1251, not really impressed with the 20$ cheap servo in there now, and I'm thinking about metal axle housings and some upgraded drive shafts.
Scx10 ii is great after dumping an extra couple hundred bucks into it!
I got the xj kit, don't think i'l ever buy an RTR.
I just bought the axial deadbolt ii. It seems to be a decent rig to start out with. That being said I went with it for the fact that I could do upgrades and by doing them learn about the vehicle. I know there's much better vehicles out there but for 299 it seems to be doing pretty well. All I've done so far is put a set of super swamper bead lock wheels and tires on it. Next is going to be shocks. I've enjoyed this car so far for sure
Depending how much you spend on your rig, the fun thing I like is to get so cheap as possible on non race cars, with the covid-19 in mind Im not allowed to race, so my old scx10 get's its well served attention, running a silvercan Tamiya motor and old shorty packs gifs it the power and wheelspin I need, no need for 3s electrics. The steering servo I have is a analog from blue bird. The rig self is 3rd hands and with the replacing of bearings and some gears I keep it alive. For sure the best rc car I have.
Thanks for the video, got this very cheap over the holidays at least i know where to start upgrading.
another great review as usual keep up the good work!
thank you, very kind of you.
Great recommendations. I have installed Traxxas shocks, new aluminum bead lock wheels and tires, and a 25kg servo on my SCX10 II. I also have a Hobbywing 1080 ESC and FS-BS6 receiver on the way (the receiver will allow me to use my GT5 radio with the SCX10 II). My SCX10 II came with steel links, so no upgrade is required. Due to the location of the motor, transmission, and battery tray on the SCX10 II Ford F100 chassis a 550 motor will not fit without shortening the tray at the motor end. Once modified, some standard length hard case batteries may no longer fit in the tray. That is not a problem if using Zeee soft case 3S batteries or similar sized batteries.
I got the Hobbywing ESC and FlySky receiver installed. What a difference they make over the stock components - the SCX10 II Ford F100 is much more controllable at slow speed with the GT5 radio system, and has better modulation throughout the entire speed range. With the new ESC I was able to increase the servo voltage to 7.4 volts from 6.0 volts, which increases both the speed and the strength of the servo.
I am new to the rc world. I wish the scx 10 2 blazer rtr was still available.
Thanks for your explanation, but I wish that the transmission of the crown could help me to have more force to climb rocks stronger better for my 2 speed transmission for an alxial SCX 10 1/10 Rc and a pinion for a 550 35T engine
I did my servo and moter :) awesome information to the viewers like me that are new and want to upgrade on axial
Sharing is caring!
You just said to replace everything so why even buy it
It's a fantastic starting platform, it runs great RTR out of the box. These are just upgrades to make it run even better.
Every single RTR(with exception of the Gen 8 Axe) have shitty electronics and tires.
Think of it like a Honda Civic. It runs just fine stock... but it could be so much more.
watch channel now & again, but I decided to subscribe to your channel,,😁👍
cool job! thanks for info! big like!👍👍👍
I to like proline tires but I prefer the flatiron tire!
We'll try that one.
Great video. Love my 27t Holmes Hobbies motor. and Alum, servo horn. Tires are next on my list!
I like your videos👍👍in this case I think its much easier to by another car than replace almost everything. 😫😉👍
Just bought the Jeep Wrangler yesterday. So far it’s pretty good. Haven’t really beaten it yet but speed control and turning radius is decent. Tires aren’t the worst but one of the wheels is bent right out of the box. Shocks also look extremely flimsy
Yeah, upgrade ready but a good performer out of the box.
RC Review what’s your take on the King shocks? I was looking at them in the shop and they look awesome
At the end of the day the only thing you can keep stock is the packing it came in...
the servo and horn first.
metal gears second
maybe all links third
After 3 months of crawling vertually every day on my backyard course these are the things i have damaged or broken.
My course gets harder everytime i use it as i like to challenge myself and the Honcho.
Wheels and tyres dont look flash but to be honest with my sandstone rocks and concrete bits they grip incredibly well
My steering link was a bit bowed so i did all the links
Shocks seem fine to me but look crap..bit sticky at first but loosen up.
Overall i love the Honcho scx10ii..the servo and horn and gears would have lasted longer if i didnt give my 9 and 6yr old kids a go lol
I'd love to buy a axial RTR because they have so many cool body options but it seems liked I'd end up spending a fortune to get it to perform like my trx4 sport. Might pick up the Cherokee builders kit instead.
That is true indeed. The scale builders kit is indeed popular for this reason. Few problems and many option parts.
The xj kit is the way to go.
Good video good info. I have the Flysky GT5 radio, love it, little more but well worth it. I use channel 5 control my 20Kg servo winch with esc. Duratrax Deepwood 1.9, xtraspeed metal differential housing, RC4WD c-hubs, knuckles and rear lock-up. 25Kg servo + boom racing low profile horn. 1080 esc. G-transition shocks droop setup. sheruns pretty well. Thanks
thank you for that share.
Every up grade you mentioned I think I've done to my scx11. Well all except for one/rwo. Motor/esc I don't think I've upgraded them yet. Only thing is could you be alittle most spific on turns for a non brushless motor. Like upgrading to a 55 turn or whatever you think would work best? What kv should I use if I go brushless?
Thanks for all your great advise and opinions. I enjoy watching your videos and the info you provide. So I thank you again.
Kenny G.
Francis the choice of body is also an important factor. On my scx10ii, I have the chevy 67 axial body. The body is longer in the front than most models. In descent of steep angles, I sometimes get my Truck stuck in a position where the front bumper is touching ground and my front wheels are unable to get me out of the situation . The wheels are barely touching the ground.... My Honcho just makes it easily since the body is much shorter.
Thank for the information I might be buying a used SCX 10 II from a buddy and he has a few little upgrades but ill definitely have to go further with upgrades.
Exactly. Getting a used one for a song and then doing these upgrades will be amazing. SCX10 II has the most available options for sure.
ive done motor esc and wheels on mine and steering knuckles and widners
very nice!
The best upgrade is buy the scx10 II raw builders kit instead a rtr 😁 and choose a good motor, a esc 1080 and servo with metal gears, I bought a SRT. Of course a good tyres and metal beadlock. In mine I just want to add metal shocks and adapters to the towers to put the shocks in a better position and that's it 🤘💪😁
I love the Jeep Wrangler SCX10.2, but after making metal upgrades, roll cage, interior, etc. I might as well buy the Cross RC Demon... since it comes w/ all metal parts and a hard body.
That is correct.
But... the Cross RC Demon does have some bad drivetrain flaws. Check our videos on it.
Honestly idk why they included 30w oil. But my scx10 ii building kit only has about 2 inches if that of flex before tires come off the ground. If i were to lift the back left tire the tire wouodnt even go higher then where tye dif was sitting
T bone racing now has Scx10 ii rock sliders i recommend them
thank you for that
I have a SCX 10 II Jeep Wrangler and would like to upgrade it but no one can answer my question about running the stock led lights off a different receiver; I have the flysky g3ctb radio and 6 channel receiver. Can I run my stock lights from it and not burn them out.
Have upgraded the motor to Holmes hobby crawler master 550 21T brushed and it runs great.
It has metal suspension links.
Thanks for the great video's and information. Dave Chatelle
If you're led's are currently running off of the stock rx then a different rx will run your lights no problem. They use the same voltage
They are running directly off the esc AE-5L not the rx
How can I get more flex outa my element enduro? I’m running 100mm shocks front and rear and cnc portal axles. Linkages are steel 313mm wheel base. I have my rear shocks angled about 30 degrees front shocks are vertical. It got pretty decent flex as is but I believe I could get allot more. I just need to know what I need to get. Great video by the way.
I put my scx10 shocks inwards with 125 mm shocks and have almost 85degree flex😅
Brass hubs front and rear and I've took my tyres off and stuck sticky wheel weights from my local car garage all around the metal disc that keeps the tyres on my beadlocks and taped over them so they dont come undone if they get wet then stick tyres on again, adds 60g per wheel to keep wheels on the ground and keep the c.o.g low
Bit of an update the blazer has some better stuff on it now not sure if they went cheaper elsewhere but i wanted to mention the tires are now falken branded and seem much softer and there is a new controller that seems much better. the drive shafts are elso angled not sure what that does exatly but maybe anew video would be great:)
I purchased the 1.9 Wraith, it was barely out of the box and I literally replaced everything
2300kv Hobbywing Axe combo
Power HD DW25LV Waterproof Servo
Incision Links
Incision Uni's
SSD Pro 44 Axle Housings
SSD Aluminum Chubs
SSD Heavy Duty Brass Knuckles
SSD Rear Link Mounts
SSD 90mm Shocks
Yeah Racing Light Kit
Spektrum 3 Channel Reciver
I just got a deal on a wraith Spawn. It was too good to pass up. In stock form I hate it. It drives bad honestly. It shows great potential. I've already made a list similar to yours. Still not sure what motor and esc I'm gonna use though.
How do you set up a Killer Toyota Land Cruiser on SCX10 chasis...
If you look close, when that blue truck is climbing that rock, look at the rock. Looks like a lion lol.. roar!
Ha, ha. Good eye!
@@RCReviewChannel yea it's the small details that gets everyone
Thanks heaps I've just gotten into this with my 4 year old son have an scx10 ii trail honcho so I bought two we are having so much fun so far all we've done is servo horns and yes we have leaking shocks I just ordered some Proline BF Goodrich crawlers in the predator thanks heaps #phils_offroad
I'm wondering if Axial has addressed the universal issue. I just got my kit opened and started building it. I bought new shocks and universals to go ahead and install from the beginning. I purchased a set of Incision universals and compared them with the originals that came in the kit and noticed that they are almost identical. Being new to this hobby I'm not sure what the originals may have looked like in comparison before. The only difference I can see is that the Incisions are a slightly lighter color.
I run the savox 1258tg servos and other than them being noisy they have never failed me.
A little late to this video, but would you mind telling me what servo horn you pair with the 1210SG to have it fit nicely inside the SCX10 II? Thanks!
In my opinion, you missed one. That is the scx10 II lift kit. It really matters what you are doing with the truck.
I, would use mine for mudding, so I would need that. I could see why a crawler would not need that though.
I do agree with tires first but the #2 upgrade 100% should be the servo horn my first real run with it my plastic horn was trash in under 20 minutes of use under normal slow use it just didn’t hold in tight spaces when crawling and using the steering to body shift to keep from roll overs then everything else I agree on the horn is trash
The older axial controller is perfect for trails
The older one was better
I have an scx10.2 jeep cherokee it droops to either side until I pick it up and sit down gently then it will sit level until the shocks flex then it leans again, it does it with stock shocks and with desert lizard shocks, what is causing it to do this
Hello, thank you for the videos!
I have a scx10ii deadbolt and I really want a brushless esc motor combo that I can plug and play, kind of like the hobbywing fusion but thats too big. Any suggestions?
I thought you were going to make a comment about the gearbox changing for that other option that is lower to help fit bodies without cutting or trimming that much
What wheel wideners will work with stock wheel nuts? Who wide can I go?
Awesome tutorial with good info.
thank you.
I got the axial deadbolt2 and the first thing broke was the plastic Servo horn strip the metal gear never seen that one
What turn would you recommend for a 550 motor? I’m going to purchase the builders kit instead of upgrading a rtr.
What kind of servo horn should I get if I have a tatic metal servo
I just got a used Chevy Blazer SCX10 2...added some 108mm integy aluminum shocks, everything else was previously upgraded ...what other bodies can I switch to??
Anything made for a 12.3" wheelbase should work.
Links to the radios?
I thought the tactic servo had metal gears? The axial Blazer is my first axial crawler. I believe it has cvds all around, the bumpers do stick out a lot and I wondered what was it good price option on that? I love your videos and thank you for the information.
The latest Tactics have metal gears. The ones on the Deadbolt have plastic.
Hello, I will buy scx 10 I kit and I’m looking or this motor but in Europe it’s difficult. A friend advise me to a 540 16T, do you think it’s good?
Wouldn’t be interested in trying out the TRX4 GRC front motor conversion and doing an install and review on it would ya?
Is it better to build it from the 10 upgrades and then buy a aftermarket frame kit?
awesome videos!
Have you ever done a video featuring Vatara crawlers? If not then why not? Just Asking.
I was thinking of upgrading with some redcat gen8 aluminum shocks. How do they perform? Would it be a good bang for the buck since they are much more affordable than other brands.
I find it frustrating that I just spent a grand on two Axial trucks and only 5 packs in we have saggy leaking shocks on both, a stripped servo horn, lights front and rear failed on one, a RC malfunction sent one off at full throttle today, and the tires are mounted crooked. As I shop out solutions I feel like I got bamboozled by Axial.
I had a flysky radio and receiver it went bad 1 month own and their warranty depo would not contact me back at all I left comments on their Facebook then they answered me and the guy tried to help me but flysky main office corp still did not honor any warranty they language barrier between me USA and them Japan was the biggest issue their Facebook guy spoke both language perfect so I had a mixed experience their Facebook guy I give him a 10 for his help flysky corp office and warranty depo I give a below 0 way -0 they never would answer my emails to them directly but threw their Facebook guy who he got mad at them for how his own company treated me
Aloe of upgrades here 😉.... why buy the SCX10 II if you have to upgrade that much? On what point is it better than TRX4 ? Is it the price difference ? I am asking because I am going to buy a crawler soon😉... but cant decide 🧐
I go with the 10.2 kits. Works best for me. You get the equipment you want from the start.
Anyone know of a better front bumper? I just want something tighter ... Not having the best luck..
I’ve just picked up the 550 Xerun 3300kv and it doesn‘t fit to the SCX10 II chassis at all.. Any help? It is kinda sad it was 240 Euros with the combo..