An important point; wear an EFFICIENT mask when working with soil components, particularly those that are initially dry. Sand, clay, pumice, perlite, humus, etc. particulates are harmful if inhaled. Packaged potting mixes have been liked to Legionella (responsible for Legionaire's disease) infections in the UK. Here in the US, vermiculite, a common component of both general purpose potting mixes and widely used in seed starting mixes, derived from tremolite carrying high levels of asbestos was mined and sold for decades by W.R. Grace, and their employees sustained thousands of cases of mesothelioma decades after prolonged exposure. Note that many sources of vermiculite are asbestos free, and the EU now has regulations regarding asbestos content in vermiculite.
Legionella lives in standing water between the temperature of 10 and 40 Celsius(such as in an illegal dead leg of a water pipe in a home), NOT in dry bags of substrate, you're thinking of silicosis, which can be easily mitigated by wetting the substrate before use and repotting outside which the vast majority, if not all bonsai growers do already. Just wet the substrate and don't think too hard about it
Amazing Sir I am from India , can you please share me bonsai potting media preparation video from you. I don't miss any videos of you . Hope you will response. Deb.Kolkata, India.
Oscar, you need an organic component in your soil. Either use spaghnum or some other type, but not that stuff with the cocopeat in it. It tends to dry out quickly and form a solid clump. :S
Bonsai substrate is perhaps the one topic in the Bonsai industry discussed most. We recommend the basic mixture of Lava, Pumice and Akadama and recommend people to adjust this mixture (or add in organic components) to experiment themselves. It depends on your local climate and what substrates are available near you. More detailed information can also be found here: www.bonsaiempire.com/basics/bonsai-care/bonsai-soil
I am thinking of taking up bonsai as a hobby. I don't understand why the bonsai mix has no actual soil, just rocks and gravel. Where do they get their nutrients from?
the roots need aeration which is why you use a more open substrate. If you used normal soil on a bonsai you would more than likely overwater and flood the roots causing root rot. By using open substrate you can virtually never overwater a tree because the excess just flows out of the pot. The downside being if you live in a hot/dry environment you need to water 1-3 times a day.
A little late but why akadama. I’ve always viewed it as a great money maker if you’re selling it but as a clay for plants it’s overpriced and overrated. Because there is always an argument ragging about the is it worth the money I’m going to do my own long term comparison 3 years 10 trees identical condition one Akadama the other a safety clean up clay. See the difference after 3 years.
I'm curious, would using slow release organic fertilizer and worm castings mixed in the soil be fine? The three substrate you added seem to no have much nutrients, do you add a little after?
Fertilizing is absolutely necessary, especially with these coarse substrate mixtures. Read more about fertilizing here: www.bonsaiempire.com/basics/bonsai-care/fertilizing
@@jx5hficus176 I read somewhere that mixing organic fertilizer into the soil can lead to drainage problems, so I leave mine on the surface. Liquid fish or kelp fertilizer is used pretty widely, so I imagine worm tea would work just as well.
Well, drainage and aeration is very important - so we use very coarse substrates that hold only a limited amount of nutrients and water. With organics, we have less control over these things.
@bonsaiempire wouldn't it be beneficial to hold more nutrients rather than less for tree growth/health? How is it that fines prevent drainage? Do they clog up the holes at the bottom of the pot or something?
As far as I’m aware although I could be misinformed; you can’t buy Akadama in Australia. I use a fine soil blend with pine bark mulch from a bonsai supplier and add zeolite (volcanic rock) to the mix. For free draining soil plant species I then add a third course sand to the mix.
coco fiber is also a good option for water retention and aeration. mixed with some rocks, compost and mycorrizhae it's a winner combo. wash the coco fiber with clean water 1 or 2 times before using it to make sure there's no salts residus. some brands are very clean but it's better to be sure. mycos love coco so much they grow so fast into it that roots are even bigger and stronger.
Hey Together, if i use Akadama, Lava and Pumice, does the organic fertilizer (Biogold) work with that soil mix ? Thanks in advance for your answer! Br Michael
@@britaglious Pumice is definitely not breaking down as quickly as akadama. You can keep using it for some time. But akadama breaks down in 3 years and becomes a clay paste.
I would love to grow bonsai trees but I live in an apt that has one window that only gets sunlight for 4 hours a day. From everything I have read and watched it seems they need as much sunlight as possible. Does that mean I shouldn't have them or is there a solution to that...thanks
That white material is perlite or pumice. No one would knowingly put zeolite in potting mixes as it absorbs ammonia, which is both directly and indirectly a major nitrogen source for plants. Additionally, zeolite is very heavy relative to volume when moist. Perlite and pumice are porous, relatively lightweight inorganic materials.
@@motherlandbot6837 There is blue material, which is clearly Zeolith. Zeolith is used in many modern bonsai soils, and offers a bunch of good benefits, such as water retention. And if it binds ammonium, it is also releasing ammonium back to the soil which means it has a long term fertilize effect. So i don't understand why you think it's bad.
@@Ow3nX1 the mix looks a lot like lechuza pon. It consists of zeolith, pumice, lava and a bit of fertilizer. Here in germany the mix is also often sold from garden centers as a kaktus growing mix.
I think he means that roots cannot penetrate the lava rock stones as it does with akadama, where roots can get into the particle and break it in more pieces.
@@diavalus If that is what he meant then it means it's not good that akadama break into pieces because it requires repotting more often because with breaking it causes less transpiration/drenage. Lava rock don't break so you can wait longer between repottings which is great for the health of the tree. Less need of repots = more health
@@EMATREMA it’s true that akadama will break down over time and a tree needs repotting. I’ve seen on Mirai I believe that it usually break down in a few years and turns into a fine clay, almost a paste. Mirai, for example, believes that this process is important as you encourage fine roots ramification when using akadama.
@@EMATREMA Akadama is great in a soil mixture, it helps the growth of a fine root system - but yes you need to repot every 2-3 years. This is no problem at all for plant health.
@@bonsaiempire Thanks for the reply. I believe that if you don't repot that often you can develop the tree faster, developing only fine roots will not help thickening the trunk. Most people don't have finished bonsai, mostly they have pre bonsai or plant in bonsai pots but in training where development is still necessary. Soils such as lava rock don't break like akadama so you can repot less often which could be a positive thing if the bonsai is in development stage. Please let me know your thoughts if you disagree it's ok, it's good to discuss to open our minds and keep learning. Of course I love your channel and website I am just opening a discussion it's not a complain : )
Akadama is hard-baked Japanese clay specifically produced for Bonsai purposes and available on all online Bonsai shops. If you purchase Akadama, keep in mind that It needs to be sifted before use, and after about two years it does start to break down which reduces aeration. This means that regular repotting is required, or that Akadama should be used in a mix with well-draining soil components. Akadama is rather expensive and is therefore sometimes substituted with similar fired/baked clays that are easily available at any garden center. Pumice is a soft volcanic rock, which can absorb water and nutrients quite well. When used in a Bonsai soil mix it helps to retain water and allows the roots to ramify very well. Lava rock also helps retain water and create a good structure when part of a Bonsai substrate. Roots can't grow into the Lava rock.
If I didn't know any better, this wouldn't be helpful at all, it'd be downright confusing since you make no differentiation between development and refinement. People selling shit always have new people thinking you need all this when they actually need soil to get their trees to grow. Just about nobody who needs this explained to them is buying a tree in refinement.
Your recommended soil mix is 50% akadama, 25% pumice, 25% lava rock. What is the property of lava rock that makes it essential?
I'd say Akadama and Pumice are the essentials - but you can read some more over here: www.bonsaiempire.com/basics/bonsai-care/bonsai-soil
thank you very much very useful for the fertility of my bonsai plants 💝🙏
thanks for sharing my friend... nice
An important point; wear an EFFICIENT mask when working with soil components, particularly those that are initially dry. Sand, clay, pumice, perlite, humus, etc. particulates are harmful if inhaled. Packaged potting mixes have been liked to Legionella (responsible for Legionaire's disease) infections in the UK.
Here in the US, vermiculite, a common component of both general purpose potting mixes and widely used in seed starting mixes, derived from tremolite carrying high levels of asbestos was mined and sold for decades by W.R. Grace, and their employees sustained thousands of cases of mesothelioma decades after prolonged exposure. Note that many sources of vermiculite are asbestos free, and the EU now has regulations regarding asbestos content in vermiculite.
Legionella lives in standing water between the temperature of 10 and 40 Celsius(such as in an illegal dead leg of a water pipe in a home), NOT in dry bags of substrate, you're thinking of silicosis, which can be easily mitigated by wetting the substrate before use and repotting outside which the vast majority, if not all bonsai growers do already. Just wet the substrate and don't think too hard about it
Love your videos so easy to understand not like most videos
Glad you like them!
TX for the info so helpful. My chill zone bonsai
Glad it was helpful!
Very good video. If I receive a bonsai in the mail in coir compost. Should I repot immediately to bonsai soil?
Perhaps check our video on repotting and check your tree species specific care guide on bonsaiempire.com :-)
Very informative sir 🌳🙏
Thanks for liking
Amazing Sir I am from India , can you please share me bonsai potting media preparation video from you. I don't miss any videos of you .
Hope you will response.
Deb.Kolkata, India.
This channel is amazing thank you soo much!!
Glad you enjoy it!
Very interesting video! Thanks so much for sharing 🙏
Glad you enjoyed it!
Maestro buena tarde podría poner subtitulos en español por favor.
what a beutiful garden 😍
Absolutely, this is the Japanese garden in Clingendael, The Hague
@@bonsaiempire Had no idea about it, thanks for sharing!
I have a candy jade bonsai in bad shape, can I use the used dry soil to repot it
عالیـــــــــ🍂🌾ـــــــــــــی
Mantap media tanamnya Bang👍👍👍
Terima kasih atas pembelajaranya
What is recommended for my Carmona Bonsai?
What is the best soil mix for Junipers in trading pots ?
Check our website for the juniper guide (bonsaiempire.com)
Thanks for your information on bonsai base.I will continue you.
💚
So, this is only for trees? Or can I plant a seed on this? If not, where can I plant a seed?
For seeds you can indeed use a less coarse substrate and something that includes organic soil as well.
@@bonsaiempire Thank you!
hello at 1:22 you mention that roots cannot grow in lava rock, I am not sure what you mean? great video
roots cant grow in lava rock alone
Oscar, you need an organic component in your soil. Either use spaghnum or some other type, but not that stuff with the cocopeat in it. It tends to dry out quickly and form a solid clump. :S
You do not need organic components. They retain too much moisture.
pine bark works well for me
@@hogdog567 Maybe you have time to water your trees ten times a day in summer, most people don't.
Bonsai substrate is perhaps the one topic in the Bonsai industry discussed most. We recommend the basic mixture of Lava, Pumice and Akadama and recommend people to adjust this mixture (or add in organic components) to experiment themselves. It depends on your local climate and what substrates are available near you. More detailed information can also be found here: www.bonsaiempire.com/basics/bonsai-care/bonsai-soil
Is the best your videos, thanks for. Information.
Glad you like them!
I am thinking of taking up bonsai as a hobby. I don't understand why the bonsai mix has no actual soil, just rocks and gravel. Where do they get their nutrients from?
The substrate does absorb nutrients, from the fertilizer we provide the trees with
the roots need aeration which is why you use a more open substrate. If you used normal soil on a bonsai you would more than likely overwater and flood the roots causing root rot. By using open substrate you can virtually never overwater a tree because the excess just flows out of the pot. The downside being if you live in a hot/dry environment you need to water 1-3 times a day.
What is the best soil for growing from a seed?
I use a mix of organic soil (potting compost, about 30%) and inorganic (pumice, about 70%)
A little late but why akadama. I’ve always viewed it as a great money maker if you’re selling it but as a clay for plants it’s overpriced and overrated. Because there is always an argument ragging about the is it worth the money I’m going to do my own long term comparison 3 years 10 trees identical condition one Akadama the other a safety clean up clay. See the difference after 3 years.
You should experiment what works for you! I like akadama and with not too many trees and part of a mix, I dont think it is too costly.
Very special treatment
素晴らしい、庭園ですね。
Good job sir. Super
Con los problemas que hay en Europa con akadama y kiriu tendremos que estudiar nuevos materiales.
I'm curious, would using slow release organic fertilizer and worm castings mixed in the soil be fine? The three substrate you added seem to no have much nutrients, do you add a little after?
I use organic cakes or loose organic fertilizer in tea bags on the surface of the soil.
@@matthughes404 is that so when you water they slowly get to the roots? Would slow release or worm tea work?
Fertilizing is absolutely necessary, especially with these coarse substrate mixtures. Read more about fertilizing here: www.bonsaiempire.com/basics/bonsai-care/fertilizing
@@jx5hficus176 I read somewhere that mixing organic fertilizer into the soil can lead to drainage problems, so I leave mine on the surface.
Liquid fish or kelp fertilizer is used pretty widely, so I imagine worm tea would work just as well.
Why are fines so bad in bonsai soil? What do they do to the tree?
Well, drainage and aeration is very important - so we use very coarse substrates that hold only a limited amount of nutrients and water. With organics, we have less control over these things.
@bonsaiempire wouldn't it be beneficial to hold more nutrients rather than less for tree growth/health? How is it that fines prevent drainage? Do they clog up the holes at the bottom of the pot or something?
As far as I’m aware although I could be misinformed; you can’t buy Akadama in Australia. I use a fine soil blend with pine bark mulch from a bonsai supplier and add zeolite (volcanic rock) to the mix. For free draining soil plant species I then add a third course sand to the mix.
Ah I see! You could also use more pumice and lava rock instead of the course sand.
coco fiber is also a good option for water retention and aeration. mixed with some rocks, compost and mycorrizhae it's a winner combo. wash the coco fiber with clean water 1 or 2 times before using it to make sure there's no salts residus. some brands are very clean but it's better to be sure. mycos love coco so much they grow so fast into it that roots are even bigger and stronger.
Beutifull place ❤️✌😍
What mix would you recommend for a Gardenia that likes slightly acidic soil?
loam
منازخاکجنگلاستفادهمیکنمبعدمدتیاسیدشزیادمیشه
I like bonsai
Can I use loam soil ? Contents of loam soil is Garden soil, Vermicast, cocopeat, rotten rice hull, carbonized rice hull, fertilizer?
I recommend the mix in this video - a non organic mix.
What kind of soil for ficus bonsai and a Brussel golden gate ficus bonsai?
The soil we recommend here works for Ficus!
Hey Together, if i use Akadama, Lava and Pumice, does the organic fertilizer (Biogold) work with that soil mix ? Thanks in advance for your answer!
Br Michael
Yes it does!
IsAkadana from Japan radioactive? I recall reading some news claiming it might be radioactive or is it a false claim?
I wouldn't worry about it :)
Where did you get that scoop with the sifter?!
Most (online) bonsai stores will sell those.
Roots cannot grow in lava rock? Because of pH?
Roots grow in between lava rock but do not penetrate them.
@@diavalus Do they penetrate akadama and not pumice?
@@britaglious Akadama gets softer after a while and it's easy for the roots to penetrate it.
@@diavalus I'm seeing pumice not breaking down as quickly as akadama as well. Is that your experience?
@@britaglious Pumice is definitely not breaking down as quickly as akadama. You can keep using it for some time. But akadama breaks down in 3 years and becomes a clay paste.
👍🏻
24 Septiembre 2023
I would love to grow bonsai trees but I live in an apt that has one window that only gets sunlight for 4 hours a day. From everything I have read and watched it seems they need as much sunlight as possible. Does that mean I shouldn't have them or is there a solution to that...thanks
If placed immediately at the window it should work, otherwise you could consider a growth light but I don't know much about those.
i from indonesia is tropical country..
Any idea where to buy pumice and lavarock in The Netherlands?
You can buy it online at bonsaishop or bonsaiplaza
@@bonsaiempire Thank you very much!
Hi. Thankyou very much for your tips 🤣
You’re welcome 😊
i thought you didnt use the S word in bonsai (soil)
Substrate is better right, since we use mostly inorganic soil (I said it again)
@@bonsaiempire 🤣👍
Good friend.. from indonesia
There is clearly Zeolith in this soil. Why is it not mentioned?
That white material is perlite or pumice. No one would knowingly put zeolite in potting mixes as it absorbs ammonia, which is both directly and indirectly a major nitrogen source for plants. Additionally, zeolite is very heavy relative to volume when moist. Perlite and pumice are porous, relatively lightweight inorganic materials.
@@motherlandbot6837 There is blue material, which is clearly Zeolith. Zeolith is used in many modern bonsai soils, and offers a bunch of good benefits, such as water retention. And if it binds ammonium, it is also releasing ammonium back to the soil which means it has a long term fertilize effect. So i don't understand why you think it's bad.
@@Ow3nX1 Thanks for the correction. I'm legally blind, and thought that you typed 'zeolite'.
@@motherlandbot6837 nevermind. i learned that there is a difference between zeolite and zeolith so thank you.
@@Ow3nX1 the mix looks a lot like lechuza pon. It consists of zeolith, pumice, lava and a bit of fertilizer. Here in germany the mix is also often sold from garden centers as a kaktus growing mix.
Roots cannot grow in lava rock?? what do you mean?
I think he means that roots cannot penetrate the lava rock stones as it does with akadama, where roots can get into the particle and break it in more pieces.
@@diavalus If that is what he meant then it means it's not good that akadama break into pieces because it requires repotting more often because with breaking it causes less transpiration/drenage. Lava rock don't break so you can wait longer between repottings which is great for the health of the tree. Less need of repots = more health
@@EMATREMA it’s true that akadama will break down over time and a tree needs repotting. I’ve seen on Mirai I believe that it usually break down in a few years and turns into a fine clay, almost a paste. Mirai, for example, believes that this process is important as you encourage fine roots ramification when using akadama.
@@EMATREMA Akadama is great in a soil mixture, it helps the growth of a fine root system - but yes you need to repot every 2-3 years. This is no problem at all for plant health.
@@bonsaiempire Thanks for the reply. I believe that if you don't repot that often you can develop the tree faster, developing only fine roots will not help thickening the trunk. Most people don't have finished bonsai, mostly they have pre bonsai or plant in bonsai pots but in training where development is still necessary. Soils such as lava rock don't break like akadama so you can repot less often which could be a positive thing if the bonsai is in development stage. Please let me know your thoughts if you disagree it's ok, it's good to discuss to open our minds and keep learning. Of course I love your channel and website I am just opening a discussion it's not a complain : )
Thanks for the info... You said roots cannot grow in lava rock, yet you add lava rock to the mix. Why is that?
For drainage and structure mostly
Akadama is not baked, why is this still being repeated in 2021? If akadama was baked, it would be a different color and would be useless for bonsai.
APL mix has become boring now, these videos are all very similar.
Most Akadama are dried and then lightly baked to the optimal hardness - this depends a bit on the brand you purchase.
Mosok yo ngerti pasir malang wong luar
If both pumice and lava rock do the same job of retaining moisture and nutrients, then what's need to add both?
Akadama is hard-baked Japanese clay specifically produced for Bonsai purposes and available on all online Bonsai shops. If you purchase Akadama, keep in mind that It needs to be sifted before use, and after about two years it does start to break down which reduces aeration. This means that regular repotting is required, or that Akadama should be used in a mix with well-draining soil components. Akadama is rather expensive and is therefore sometimes substituted with similar fired/baked clays that are easily available at any garden center.
Pumice is a soft volcanic rock, which can absorb water and nutrients quite well. When used in a Bonsai soil mix it helps to retain water and allows the roots to ramify very well.
Lava rock also helps retain water and create a good structure when part of a Bonsai substrate. Roots can't grow into the Lava rock.
🇮🇩🖐
If I didn't know any better, this wouldn't be helpful at all, it'd be downright confusing since you make no differentiation between development and refinement. People selling shit always have new people thinking you need all this when they actually need soil to get their trees to grow. Just about nobody who needs this explained to them is buying a tree in refinement.