Thank you so much for taking the time to do a step by step tutorial. I pick my first Model A up this weekend and I need to know about timing a Model A this will need my first time owning one and I've heard a lot about timing. Not your typical small block Chevy lol. Cheerio!
Thanks for the video. How can I change the position of the rotor in regard to the gear of the camshaft? I need to point the numer one cylinder again. The rotor is in a wrong position because an oil pump wrong dissasembly.
Thanks Tony. Helpful video even for this old time A owner. If I may make a suggestion, it would help if you showed the exact position of your alligator clamps on the points. Your hand blocks the view to that very important position. Ray Horton Portland, Oregon
Thank you sir! My buddy just got a 1930 Tudor. Already restored but still needs a little love and some extras he wants, same color as yours, two tone green but with black wheels. Beautiful straight body, excellent paint job. It's going to be a driver not a garage ornament. Has anybody managed to keep the exhaust manifold painted with high temp paint? I'm going to try some. If it burns off, ...oh well. I can't tell from old pictures if it was bare cast iron or not from the factory. I'm usually doing all the under hood details on our cars. Since it's so prominent it bugs me for it to be rusty. I have to change out or clean up all the painted over bolts and nuts too. He may go for chrome ones I hope. Even our daily drivers need to look good under the hood. I'm going to try some rust reformer that supposedly turns rust to a primer-like substance and some "flame proof" 1300-2000 degree paint.
I'm glad you found the video useful. With regard to painting the exhaust manifold, I suggest you have a look on www.vintagefordforum.com, and ask the question there. They are a very helpful and knowledgeable bunch.
For your exhaust manifold...NIC industries has a black satin ceramic coating that is sprayed on and no need to oven cure it. You must media blast it, and be certain no oil contamination exists (place part in old oven at 500F for an hour, let cool, then blast it). It sprays easy, and withstands exhaust temps without fail. It lasts years as well.
Hi, I sure hope you read this comment. I'm having a lot of trouble with the distributor apparently I really screwed up when I set my timing. I didn't follow anything that you put out there. Now I understand a whole lot more. But when I tryed to start the car, the motor spun. Then it dragged real hard. The motor spun and then dragged real hard. And then my electricity was gone. Actually, my electricity was gone everywhere horn ,lights etc. What do you think I did? And how do you think would be the type of thinking I would have to combat it. I sure would appreciate any help, Thanks
Good afternoon Jon, may I suggest following the instructions before you start always pays off.😁 If I were you I would go back to basics, as you seem to made life difficult for yourself. Check in the Les Andrews red book and retime your Model A engine from scratch, it will save you a great deal of time in the end. Otherwise you won't know where you are. Check your timing mark on the flywheel, find top dead centre on Number 1 cylinder then connect the timing light as I show on my video. It sounds from your description if she is making heavy going turning the engine over you have the timing too far advanced. But don't guess it, go back to basics and do it right. 👍👍
Great video Tony, but if I may , you forgot to tell the audience to put the timing pin back in and tighten, owning a 31 Tudor sedan I picked up on it right a way, no worries I forget what I had for breakfast sometimes, Cheerio !!
Good morning Uwe. I'm not sure I understand your question. If you would like to view the video again and then tell me at what time (on the clock on the bottom left of the screen) the pointer you mention is shown, I will try and answer your question. Regards - Tony
That gap should be between .025 and .035. .025 is pretty standard, .035 gives you a hotter spark. They should all have the same gap and you may have to file the buttons a little.
Good morning José. The firing order is 1243. It is very difficult to get it wrong with the Model A distributor and the metal strip spark plug connectors. Have a look at the Model A basics site, you will find it very helpful. modelabasics.com/Ignition.htm
Thank you so much for taking the time to do a step by step tutorial. I pick my first Model A up this weekend and I need to know about timing a Model A this will need my first time owning one and I've heard a lot about timing. Not your typical small block Chevy lol. Cheerio!
I'm glad you found it useful. Don't forget to subscribe to vintagefordforum.com if you want any helpful advice. Good luck with your new car!!!
@@Qspecialman I did subscribe ty
Thanks for the video. How can I change the position of the rotor in regard to the gear of the camshaft? I need to point the numer one cylinder again. The rotor is in a wrong position because an oil pump wrong dissasembly.
Thanks Tony. Helpful video even for this old time A owner. If I may make a suggestion, it would help if you showed the exact position of your alligator clamps on the points. Your hand blocks the view to that very important position.
Ray Horton
Portland, Oregon
Thst Thompson is a WWII gun
The forearm was ordered after 1939 as it was less prone to breakage than the vertical one.
FWIW
That fuel filter next to exhaust is a bomb
Great video overall, very clear instructions except for the pin replacement.
Thank you. Great Video
Good job! Informative and helpful...Thanks
Thank you sir! My buddy just got a 1930 Tudor. Already restored but still needs a little love and some extras he wants, same color as yours, two tone green but with black wheels. Beautiful straight body, excellent paint job. It's going to be a driver not a garage ornament.
Has anybody managed to keep the exhaust manifold painted with high temp paint? I'm going to try some. If it burns off, ...oh well. I can't tell from old pictures if it was bare cast iron or not from the factory. I'm usually doing all the under hood details on our cars. Since it's so prominent it bugs me for it to be rusty. I have to change out or clean up all the painted over bolts and nuts too. He may go for chrome ones I hope. Even our daily drivers need to look good under the hood.
I'm going to try some rust reformer that supposedly turns rust to a primer-like substance and some "flame proof" 1300-2000 degree paint.
I'm glad you found the video useful. With regard to painting the exhaust manifold, I suggest you have a look on www.vintagefordforum.com, and ask the question there. They are a very helpful and knowledgeable bunch.
Thanks and happy motoring.
For your exhaust manifold...NIC industries has a black satin ceramic coating that is sprayed on and no need to oven cure it. You must media blast it, and be certain no oil contamination exists (place part in old oven at 500F for an hour, let cool, then blast it). It sprays easy, and withstands exhaust temps without fail. It lasts years as well.
Trey wood stove polish for your exhaust manifold. Tip from the "old timers"....
@@jimduffield2541 I now remember hearing your "old timers" tip, but forgot it. Thanks for the wake-up reminder.
Hi, I sure hope you read this comment. I'm having a lot of trouble with the distributor apparently I really screwed up when I set my timing. I didn't follow anything that you put out there. Now I understand a whole lot more. But when I tryed to start the car, the motor spun. Then it dragged real hard. The motor spun and then dragged real hard. And then my electricity was gone. Actually, my electricity was gone everywhere horn ,lights etc. What do you think I did? And how do you think would be the type of thinking I would have to combat it. I sure would appreciate any help, Thanks
Good afternoon Jon, may I suggest following the instructions before you start always pays off.😁
If I were you I would go back to basics, as you seem to made life difficult for yourself. Check in the Les Andrews red book and retime your Model A engine from scratch, it will save you a great deal of time in the end. Otherwise you won't know where you are.
Check your timing mark on the flywheel, find top dead centre on Number 1 cylinder then connect the timing light as I show on my video. It sounds from your description if she is making heavy going turning the engine over you have the timing too far advanced. But don't guess it, go back to basics and do it right. 👍👍
Great video Tony, but if I may , you forgot to tell the audience to put the timing pin back in and tighten, owning a 31 Tudor sedan I picked up on it right a way, no worries I forget
what I had for breakfast sometimes, Cheerio !!
Good info...bad microphone. Hopefully, that has changed along with adding LED lighting for filming sequences.
How big is the distance from the pointer?
Good morning Uwe. I'm not sure I understand your question. If you would like to view the video again and then tell me at what time (on the clock on the bottom left of the screen) the pointer you mention is shown, I will try and answer your question. Regards - Tony
That gap should be between .025 and .035. .025 is pretty standard, .035 gives you a hotter spark. They should all have the same gap and you may have to file the buttons a little.
*IS IGNITION ORDER 1-3-4-2 ? OR 1-2-4-3*
Good morning José. The firing order is 1243. It is very difficult to get it wrong with the Model A distributor and the metal strip spark plug connectors. Have a look at the Model A basics site, you will find it very helpful. modelabasics.com/Ignition.htm
@@Qspecialman YOU ARE WELCOME THANK YOU
I'm glad you found it useful Jim. Tony