When you've got a steel bolt stuck in aluminum due to galvanic corrosion, here's the a technique that works pretty well. Step 1: prepare the bolt to be turned using any of Taryl's suggested techniques (grind sides, weld but, two nuts, etc). Step 2: wake up the threads. The hammer blow Taryl used at the end is the idea but but use a punch. This breaks the corrosion bond between the steel and aluminium. Step 3: acetone/ATF mix on thread and let sit for 30+ min. Step 4: heat with heat gun/torch but do not spray lube as it immediately cools it down. Heat expands the metal and cooling makes it contract. You want the aluminum to expand (makes the hole larger) and the steel to contract making the bolt smaller. Heat the aluminum but use q-tip or pointed tool damp with water to touch the bolt for a few seconds. This will draw some heat from the steel bolt and allow it to contract. If possible I like to do this with a tapered punch of drive pin with another blow with the hammer. Step 5: use whatever twist method to turn the bolt. Chances are better that it'll break free. Give it a try.
Outstanding Taryl... From the age of 10 to 20 I spent with the Busse brothers fixing and building Minibikes, Gocarts, Riding lawn mowers and Motorcycles. Their dad Glen owned a Gas station. Your videos bring that all back... It was the 70's... We raced them broke em then we fixed, modded and broke them some more. Keep up the awesome inspiring work. I watch them all...
My wife got me a set of left handed drill bits for my birthday (yeah, she's awesome)... my son looks at me with a very confusing look on his face, "but dad, your not left handed".
I've never seen anybody drill a hole for the lubricant straw before. That's a pretty neat idea, especially with bigger bolts. But maybe with the tiny, fine-threaded bolts, drilling makes too big of a burr on the inside, and causes the shavings to jam up the threads a little. Just a thought. I look forward to the know-how in these videos almost as much as the academy award-winning caliber stories! The Dapper Dan, or Dapper Taryl line was perfect for this video, since you could say "Damn! We're in a tight spot" about them seized-in-the-aluminium bolts while you're wearing your Dapper Dan apparel! Keep 'em comin', Taryl!
Great video. You are the master Taryl. The word “patience “ is a good one here. I’ve had great luck spraying the part with WD40 and walking away. Come back a few hours later after the capillary action has had enough time to work. Then maybe you wouldn’t of snapped off that bolt?
When I do the vice grip trick, I don't grind flats, I want as much material on there to grab onto as possible. I have a couple pair that are new and only used for stuck bolts, that way the teeth on the jaws stay nice and sharp to bite in
All the time I worked for Kenworth everyone would come to me to get out broken bolts. Never had a fail. Even 2" deep in a block I would get it. Welded a nut on 75% of the time. Never the first time have to let the heat and cooling do its thing. Extractor rod has special flux that takes up the threads and let's u weld straight up out of the hole inches deep a 1\2" hole. When they come out it looks like a bolt even has threads till u knock off the flux and u see the solid core of weld. I have to mention I worked for Kenworth in AZ. First winter moving back to Wisconsin I went back to welding where it's warm. Great video. If I can find that rod I will mail u some to play with. It will help you out some day if you take the time to try it on scrap till u got it down. Feels unnatural. Keep the videos coming.
Great video again!!! I agree with, at least, one of the others. I put anti-seize on all of the bolts/screws that I put into aluminum. Haven’t had a problem yet. But, that doesn’t help on the ones from the factory.
I had a very similar problem a few days ago.....first tried drilling it out and got an 1/16th bit to go through but each drill bit after that wouldn't work....brought it to my shop and welded a nut (5x) no luck.....since I had the hole in it, I used my similar to yours easy out and got it to bite...took the acetylene torch and slowly/lowly warmed it while turning.....it worked, threads were still good and head was just fine.....all the ways work one way or another, just depends on situation...I do like the drilling into the side and spraying it too, that was a new one for me.....great real world video
I'm on my daughter's TH-cam account. I used to do like Taryl showed. Taryl is right about the welding onto small bolts. In Taryl's case I would've placed a washer that just fits over the broken bolt. Since the broken bolt is 1/4", I would use a 3/8" nut. The washer protects the machine from being accidentally welded to the bolt. I always go two sizes bigger with the nuts for two reasons. 1: When you weld the nut and bolt together it's not being held only by the top of the bolt. Some of the weld makes it to the threads for a better bond. 2: Because the nut is bigger than the bolt, you have to weld more which means more heat and penetration. While the nut is cherry red I spray penetrant oil at the base of the nut so the heat soaks it to the threads. You have to take it easy with the bolt. Just keep loosening and tightening. And keep oiling so the oil keeps reaching the threads. Just be patient. I've had bolts where I spent 5 minutes or more and the bolt will only turn half a turn. I just keep at it and keep oiling it and have had the bolt come completely out the next minute. The oil needs to get to the threads. By loosening and tightening the oil will get there. Just have to be patient. If the bolt is broken flush I lay a washer is if the bolt was sticking out. I then tack weld the top of the bolt a bit. It's ok if the washer gets welded to the bolt. Then install the 2 size bigger nut and weld it. I have almost a 100% success rate.
a trick i've used in the past was soak the sucker in WD40 for a couple of days prior to working on it, then the good old heat it and beat it technique heat it with a map gas torch (or propane) smack it a few times with a malleable iron or bronze hammer then grip with the baddest pair of vice grips you have and torque it side to side while spraying more WD40 on it, i've done the weld a nut to the end trick before and like you said, small bolts/screws are hard to weld and get good penetration on both parts, good vid entertaining and informational as always Taryl
I like to weld a washer to the broken bolt. Easier to weld on and get better penetration. Then weld a larger nut to the washer. After all the welding the heat usually helps release the broken bolt.
Hi Taryl - great vid. Especially about the left-handed drills and extractors. Patience and lube are the keys to success. Just a suggestion - I use Aero-Kroil for all things rusted, stuck, or just plain ugly. I’ve used KnockerLoose, PB Blaster, WD40, diesel/ATF, and others in the past but Kroil is my favorite. Take care and thanks for the vids. 👍
Watching you fight with these hard to remove bolts reminds us of the worst jobs we ever faced. We all have experienced the frustration of vise grips ultimately failing to remove a broken bolt. Great tips.
A guy who owns a machine shop once showed me where he would heat the busted off bolt cherry red and then take a candle to the bolt and the wax would go around the threads penetrating into the head or block with the broken bolt. This works on steel as well as aluminum. It uses a capillary action when the heat draws the wax into the threads.
When the stud breaks off, that Is A "REAL " REAL LIFE SCENARIO. It happens to the best of us mechanical wizards. Hey Taryl .. keep em coming. Great Vids man. Funny and entertaining at the same time! I love it. The 'lil mini bike one was superb! The short movies are awesome.
I agree what you said about engineers and all there schooling. Also fine thread versus course thread for the bolts. Same thing applies in cases where button head allen bolts are used when should have been socket head screws on some equipment.
For most people. At “12:30” is the point where you would just bring it to me and I drill it out in the machine shop. Or a shop close to you. This is an awesome video showing how to successfully remove a bolt that’s broken above the hole. Broken below the hole and that’s a whole nother video.
Taryl..i broke a head bolt on my 21hp briggs...any chance i can get by with just the 7 bolts..?? .the top center bolt broke down in there about an inch......love your "you tube" helpers...thanks, tom
I did this job yesterday, all three mounting bolts on a 3.5 hp B&S. The motor was small, but not the job. Did the job by center drilling the bolts to 1/32 under tap size, then chipped out what was left of the thread. I was hoping you could teach an easy method. I did learn the oil pilot hole, ty. Lol, as you said, it is not an easy job.
For that steel in aluminum you could immerse in a solution of water and alum in a pan over a campstove. Leave it in the heated solution and eventually the steel will dissolve. Did that on a broken sump bolt in a tecumseh vtwin. Unfortunately it was after I tried to drill it out so I still had to oversize cause I messed the aluminum with the drill.
Read something about pouring boiling hot water does something to break down the aluminium oxidation to remove seized bolts. I haven't had a reason to try it yet. Have you tried paraffin wax after heating? Sometimes they use loctite to seal the threads and reduce contact from the dissimilar metals.
My uncle worked in the Oklahoma oil fields. Sometimes they would drill two holes across from each other where the bolt threads and hole threads came together, drilling thru all of the threads. Then drill another thru hole, in the center of the bolt big enough to overlap the two other holes. This cuts the stuck bolt into two pieces. This will of course damage the threads some, but that often doesn't make much difference.
I've doing the same thing except the center hole, drilling thru the threads, build up the bolt stud with the welder, lube, heat, hammer. the trickiest part is patience, and not breaking off the drill bit. Most of them were 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8, succeeded 99% of the time, even the nasty ones.
I had problem like that with my old 28hp Yamaha outboard motor (-73) The low unit bolt broked and i heat it up very hot and sprayed lot of liqued wrench on it. Finally i got i out with a strong pliers.
I was just wondering do you assemble “problem” threads with any sort of “preventative”. Usually I just wish the manufacturer had used better plated bolts or stainless. I have found that using high quality loctite flange sealant helps a lot by keeping the moisture out of the threads,no moisture no rust. The acetic acid in some silicon can actually make it rust quicker though. If you don’t want threads to rust what do you use on them at assembly?
One thing I've found to work is to use B'Laster. It is thin and penetrates pretty well. It also feeds down into the threads with heat and reapplication of it.
I put a matching 'warsher' over broken off flush bolt! Then put a larger nut over it and weld away. Looks like the one beside it is now locked with broken bit.
Tip for Terryl. When you weld the nut on try to get your wrench 🔧 on while it's still cherry red and gently work it back and forth like you showed. It should break loose as it cools.
A machinist trick I learned from TH-cam for bolts in aluminum is to use candle wax and heat. The paraffin doesn't burn off like penetrating oil. Paraffin will melt in and lubricate the threads to help remove the broken bolt.
I use automatic transmission fluid for penetrating oil. The molecules are so small it works good. I rarely have luck using vise grips on the end of a broken fastener.
I come here to extend my vacabuliary: "Lubrican": a can that holds lubricant! Ive got one of those, but I dont yet have my oxygen and aphetymine torch !!!!
Great tips on broken fastener, stud, bolt removal. I'm concerned about Ol' Slip Dog - is he going to be ok? I guess we'll have to wait until next week to find out.
You should have called this episode "How not to remove a broken bolt '' just kidding ,Taryl , Elkskins the human shop rag told me to say that . Thanks for the great videos . I use them all the time .
I remember back to the early 60's when Loctite first came out that all the Honda case cover screws were Loctited in and nobody new what it was or that a little heat would break it loose. I broke or rounded out almost every case cover screw I tried. If you needed another screw, none of the hardware stores had metric screws so you ordered them from Honda. 1 month wait time.
Taryl sometime try your method and touch some candle wax to the bolt and that hole you drilled after you heat it up SOMETIMES THE WAX WILL MELT DOWN AROUND THE THREADS AND LUBRICATE THEM!! THIS METHOD WORKS REALLY WELL ON PIPE THREADS TOO! I LEARNED THAT TRICK 40 YEARS AGO!!
@@timssmallenginerepair1467 hahahahaha. Well just make sure your Husqvarna customers know this because it's important to keep the beer holder filled with the proper fluid for optimal performance.
Use a slightly larger nut on the busted off bolts allows for more time then a quick tack weld heating up the bolt the important part let it cool for 5-10 minutes then it almost always backs out i also use a socket wrench for more central force as the farther away you put leverage the more the weld is going to want to break dont be afraid to do it twice if needed
Ive also welded a nipple on flush bolts and burned a nut to it keeping it hot and letting it cool did a exaust bolt and a alternator bracket bolt tht were both twisted off flush in a engine bay where ya cant get a tap and drill easily
I love how you showed that things don't always work out as planned, so many repair videos only show the easy success stories.
Just like that see I told you
When you've got a steel bolt stuck in aluminum due to galvanic corrosion, here's the a technique that works pretty well. Step 1: prepare the bolt to be turned using any of Taryl's suggested techniques (grind sides, weld but, two nuts, etc). Step 2: wake up the threads. The hammer blow Taryl used at the end is the idea but but use a punch. This breaks the corrosion bond between the steel and aluminium. Step 3: acetone/ATF mix on thread and let sit for 30+ min. Step 4: heat with heat gun/torch but do not spray lube as it immediately cools it down. Heat expands the metal and cooling makes it contract. You want the aluminum to expand (makes the hole larger) and the steel to contract making the bolt smaller. Heat the aluminum but use q-tip or pointed tool damp with water to touch the bolt for a few seconds. This will draw some heat from the steel bolt and allow it to contract. If possible I like to do this with a tapered punch of drive pin with another blow with the hammer. Step 5: use whatever twist method to turn the bolt. Chances are better that it'll break free. Give it a try.
If Taryl can't remove a broken bolt....no one can! And your video/movie productions keep getting better.
Outstanding Taryl... From the age of 10 to 20 I spent with the Busse brothers fixing and building Minibikes, Gocarts, Riding lawn mowers and Motorcycles. Their dad Glen owned a Gas station. Your videos bring that all back... It was the 70's... We raced them broke em then we fixed, modded and broke them some more. Keep up the awesome inspiring work. I watch them all...
My wife got me a set of left handed drill bits for my birthday (yeah, she's awesome)... my son looks at me with a very confusing look on his face, "but dad, your not left handed".
There like not even 100 dollars.
You have to love these guys....best channel on tube lol
So cool, you guys should be nominated for a youtube Emmy award! Can't wait for the sequel.
I've never seen anybody drill a hole for the lubricant straw before. That's a pretty neat idea, especially with bigger bolts. But maybe with the tiny, fine-threaded bolts, drilling makes too big of a burr on the inside, and causes the shavings to jam up the threads a little. Just a thought. I look forward to the know-how in these videos almost as much as the academy award-winning caliber stories! The Dapper Dan, or Dapper Taryl line was perfect for this video, since you could say "Damn! We're in a tight spot" about them seized-in-the-aluminium bolts while you're wearing your Dapper Dan apparel! Keep 'em comin', Taryl!
"A 30 min job is always 5 seconds away from becoming a 2 hour ordeal..."
Great video. You are the master Taryl. The word “patience “ is a good one here. I’ve had great luck spraying the part with WD40 and walking away. Come back a few hours later after the capillary action has had enough time to work. Then maybe you wouldn’t of snapped off that bolt?
When I do the vice grip trick, I don't grind flats, I want as much material on there to grab onto as possible. I have a couple pair that are new and only used for stuck bolts, that way the teeth on the jaws stay nice and sharp to bite in
I respect the mans skills...the comedy, not so much.
but he does have skills with wrenches, damn sure.
All the time I worked for Kenworth everyone would come to me to get out broken bolts. Never had a fail. Even 2" deep in a block I would get it. Welded a nut on 75% of the time. Never the first time have to let the heat and cooling do its thing. Extractor rod has special flux that takes up the threads and let's u weld straight up out of the hole inches deep a 1\2" hole. When they come out it looks like a bolt even has threads till u knock off the flux and u see the solid core of weld. I have to mention I worked for Kenworth in AZ. First winter moving back to Wisconsin I went back to welding where it's warm. Great video. If I can find that rod I will mail u some to play with. It will help you out some day if you take the time to try it on scrap till u got it down. Feels unnatural. Keep the videos coming.
Great video again!!! I agree with, at least, one of the others. I put anti-seize on all of the bolts/screws that I put into aluminum. Haven’t had a problem yet. But, that doesn’t help on the ones from the factory.
I had a very similar problem a few days ago.....first tried drilling it out and got an 1/16th bit to go through but each drill bit after that wouldn't work....brought it to my shop and welded a nut (5x) no luck.....since I had the hole in it, I used my similar to yours easy out and got it to bite...took the acetylene torch and slowly/lowly warmed it while turning.....it worked, threads were still good and head was just fine.....all the ways work one way or another, just depends on situation...I do like the drilling into the side and spraying it too, that was a new one for me.....great real world video
Loved all the drumming when heating etc. Makes it feel so much better~!! 🤣🤣
I'm on my daughter's TH-cam account. I used to do like Taryl showed. Taryl is right about the welding onto small bolts. In Taryl's case I would've placed a washer that just fits over the broken bolt. Since the broken bolt is 1/4", I would use a 3/8" nut. The washer protects the machine from being accidentally welded to the bolt. I always go two sizes bigger with the nuts for two reasons. 1: When you weld the nut and bolt together it's not being held only by the top of the bolt. Some of the weld makes it to the threads for a better bond. 2: Because the nut is bigger than the bolt, you have to weld more which means more heat and penetration. While the nut is cherry red I spray penetrant oil at the base of the nut so the heat soaks it to the threads. You have to take it easy with the bolt. Just keep loosening and tightening. And keep oiling so the oil keeps reaching the threads. Just be patient. I've had bolts where I spent 5 minutes or more and the bolt will only turn half a turn. I just keep at it and keep oiling it and have had the bolt come completely out the next minute. The oil needs to get to the threads. By loosening and tightening the oil will get there. Just have to be patient. If the bolt is broken flush I lay a washer is if the bolt was sticking out. I then tack weld the top of the bolt a bit. It's ok if the washer gets welded to the bolt. Then install the 2 size bigger nut and weld it. I have almost a 100% success rate.
Great Tips on Bolt removal! Hope Slippers is going to be okay.
YOU are my HERO - A REAL Mechanic!!!!!
Taryl is my hero!
a trick i've used in the past was soak the sucker in WD40 for a couple of days prior to working on it, then the good old heat it and beat it technique heat it with a map gas torch (or propane) smack it a few times with a malleable iron or bronze hammer then grip with the baddest pair of vice grips you have and torque it side to side while spraying more WD40 on it, i've done the weld a nut to the end trick before and like you said, small bolts/screws are hard to weld and get good penetration on both parts, good vid entertaining and informational as always Taryl
I like to weld a washer to the broken bolt. Easier to weld on and get better penetration. Then weld a larger nut to the washer. After all the welding the heat usually helps release the broken bolt.
Yep, totally agree, washer first, then the nut, gives you a lot more weld and much better weld penertration.
Also easier to see what your doing on a bolt that has broken flush.
Hi Taryl - great vid. Especially about the left-handed drills and extractors. Patience and lube are the keys to success. Just a suggestion - I use Aero-Kroil for all things rusted, stuck, or just plain ugly. I’ve used KnockerLoose, PB Blaster, WD40, diesel/ATF, and others in the past but Kroil is my favorite. Take care and thanks for the vids. 👍
Watching you fight with these hard to remove bolts reminds us of the worst jobs we ever faced. We all have experienced the frustration of vise grips ultimately failing to remove a broken bolt. Great tips.
Thank-you Taryl, you are a gift.
I loved the creepy music every time you had a mishap. LOL!
A guy who owns a machine shop once showed me where he would heat the busted off bolt cherry red and then take a candle to the bolt and the wax would go around the threads penetrating into the head or block with the broken bolt. This works on steel as well as aluminum. It uses a capillary action when the heat draws the wax into the threads.
Good refresher from the Master
That was a great idea! I've had tons of steel/aluminum problems on my snowmobiles. Thanks!
thanks for my taryl apparell
I watch you as well.
@@andrewmantle7627 2 best fix it people
Something I invested in is a drill doctor, the cheapest one,,, years ago.Saves money buying drill bits all the time.
Hey Taryl watched your video on installing drain bolts in K46 transaxle. Easy to do. Saved lots of $$. Thanks!!
Thank you Taryl again I have learned something that will help me while working on my equipment.
When the stud breaks off, that Is A "REAL " REAL LIFE SCENARIO. It happens to the best of us mechanical wizards.
Hey Taryl .. keep em coming. Great Vids man. Funny and entertaining at the same time! I love it. The 'lil mini bike one was superb! The short movies are awesome.
I agree what you said about engineers and all there schooling. Also fine thread versus course thread for the bolts. Same thing applies in cases where button head allen bolts are used when should have been socket head screws on some equipment.
Great video. When I was a kid we used to go over to your area and pick blueberries! one for me one for the bucket....
For most people. At “12:30” is the point where you would just bring it to me and I drill it out in the machine shop. Or a shop close to you.
This is an awesome video showing how to successfully remove a bolt that’s broken above the hole. Broken below the hole and that’s a whole nother video.
Taryl..i broke a head bolt on my 21hp briggs...any chance i can get by with just the 7 bolts..?? .the top center bolt broke down in there about an inch......love your "you tube" helpers...thanks, tom
YOU'RE AWESOME TARYL!!!
I did this job yesterday, all three mounting bolts on a 3.5 hp B&S. The motor was small, but not the job. Did the job by center drilling the bolts to 1/32 under tap size, then chipped out what was left of the thread. I was hoping you could teach an easy method. I did learn the oil pilot hole, ty. Lol, as you said, it is not an easy job.
Great episode Taryl, loved the escaped patient bit and great tips for removing seized bolts in aluminum!
Awesome video, I learned allot, have you ever tried the crayon method?
Good stuff as always, thank you.
For that steel in aluminum you could immerse in a solution of water and alum in a pan over a campstove. Leave it in the heated solution and eventually the steel will dissolve. Did that on a broken sump bolt in a tecumseh vtwin. Unfortunately it was after I tried to drill it out so I still had to oversize cause I messed the aluminum with the drill.
AvE showed how to do that on his channel a couple years ago.... definitely has to be heated tho....
GREAT skit ! & video, plus a real cliffhanger, what more could we want. Thanks guys! "Gary in Oregon"
Read something about pouring boiling hot water does something to break down the aluminium oxidation to remove seized bolts. I haven't had a reason to try it yet. Have you tried paraffin wax after heating? Sometimes they use loctite to seal the threads and reduce contact from the dissimilar metals.
Good tip drilling that small hole for the lube. Thanks Taryl.
I truly apershamnate your entertaining and egamcating learn me stuff vitdmeos thank you
Thank you Taryl I broke two studs on a head I'm working on on the Tahoe GM vehicle went to this video and then worked out good
Greetings Taryl from Ireland
A BROKEN BOLT TURNS A MINOR REPAIR INTO A MAJOR PAIN. Thanks I picked up a couple of useful tricks.
Good video Taryl.
My uncle worked in the Oklahoma oil fields. Sometimes they would drill two holes across from each other where the bolt threads and hole threads came together, drilling thru all of the threads. Then drill another thru hole, in the center of the bolt big enough to overlap the two other holes. This cuts the stuck bolt into two pieces. This will of course damage the threads some, but that often doesn't make much difference.
I've doing the same thing except the center hole, drilling thru the threads, build up the bolt stud with the welder, lube, heat, hammer. the trickiest part is patience, and not breaking off the drill bit. Most of them were 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8, succeeded 99% of the time, even the nasty ones.
Great video as always mate all the way from over the pond
Your the man taryl
nice video ,ultimate handyman has a good video on tougher ones to remove , its old school but very good.
I had problem like that with my old 28hp Yamaha outboard motor (-73) The low unit bolt broked and i heat it up very hot and sprayed lot of liqued wrench on it. Finally i got i out with a strong pliers.
do you have Taryl repair books...where were you 55 years ago when I could have used you....I had to learn the hard way........
Love your shop could you be able to show me how to set the points on a kawasaki kf34 EG it's got very weak spark
Thanks for the tip sir. Be safe. Peace.
Good tips on getting broken bolt
That was awesome Taryl!!
Any idea how to un-stick a parking brake handle in the down position?
Tarly my wife thinks your teeth are fake but I tell her they are real.
I was just wondering do you assemble “problem” threads with any sort of “preventative”. Usually I just wish the manufacturer had used better plated bolts or stainless. I have found that using high quality loctite flange sealant helps a lot by keeping the moisture out of the threads,no moisture no rust. The acetic acid in some silicon can actually make it rust quicker though. If you don’t want threads to rust what do you use on them at assembly?
One thing I've found to work is to use B'Laster. It is thin and penetrates pretty well. It also feeds down into the threads with heat and reapplication of it.
used the nut welding method the other day. on a smaller bolt, that was flush. worked perfect.
A drill press may be better than hand held drill. But that’s just my opinion. You guys are great. Love your vid’s.
1st
Wish Taryl had black pocket t-shirts.
No! Not black! Black + Summer Sun = too hot!! Yes, a pocket for sure. T-shirts without pockets should be outlawed.
Dang Taryl. U the man
Good show thanks
This guy is awesome
Nice tips Taryl thanks !!!!!!
I put a matching 'warsher' over broken off flush bolt! Then put a larger nut over it and weld away. Looks like the one beside it is now locked with broken bit.
Tip for Terryl. When you weld the nut on try to get your wrench 🔧 on while it's still cherry red and gently work it back and forth like you showed. It should break loose as it cools.
Its a must to know how to work vise grips !
i love the video man
A machinist trick I learned from TH-cam for bolts in aluminum is to use candle wax and heat. The paraffin doesn't burn off like penetrating oil. Paraffin will melt in and lubricate the threads to help remove the broken bolt.
I use automatic transmission fluid for penetrating oil. The molecules are so small it works good. I rarely have luck using vise grips on the end of a broken fastener.
Good job Taryl
I come here to extend my vacabuliary: "Lubrican": a can that holds lubricant! Ive got one of those, but I dont yet have my oxygen and aphetymine torch !!!!
Great tips on broken fastener, stud, bolt removal. I'm concerned about Ol' Slip Dog - is he going to be ok? I guess we'll have to wait until next week to find out.
You should have called this episode "How not to remove a broken bolt '' just kidding ,Taryl , Elkskins the human shop rag told me to say that . Thanks for the great videos . I use them all the time .
I have had really good luck with the lube,heat and hammer method on aluminum.
I use a torch and a candle .
Works great !
"They went to school, Got all that Schooling. "They Know Everything." lmfao
Always interesting thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺
I remember back to the early 60's when Loctite first came out that all the Honda case cover screws were Loctited in and nobody new what it was or that a little heat would break it loose. I broke or rounded out almost every case cover screw I tried. If you needed another screw, none of the hardware stores had metric screws so you ordered them from Honda. 1 month wait time.
Great video and hilarious skit.
Taryl sometime try your method and touch some candle wax to the bolt and that hole you drilled after you heat it up SOMETIMES THE WAX WILL MELT DOWN AROUND THE THREADS AND LUBRICATE THEM!! THIS METHOD WORKS REALLY WELL ON PIPE THREADS TOO! I LEARNED THAT TRICK 40 YEARS AGO!!
highlight of my week
Did the same welded on nut trick and had to used a t handle and socket so it wouldn't snap off from torque angle from a wrench👍
Brilliant video thank u 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video.Would suggest putting something under the ear that your hitting with the punch it might break of.
I'm enjoying a Day's Inn frozen pizza while watching this episode of Daryl and Taryl.
that Hamm's beer logo looks like the Husqvarna logo. So I guess that makes Hamm's the official beer for the beer holder on a Husqvarna mower.
That would explain why you have to get drunk to buy or work on a Poulan saw LMAO!
@@timssmallenginerepair1467 hahahahaha. Well just make sure your Husqvarna customers know this because it's important to keep the beer holder filled with the proper fluid for optimal performance.
Thank God someone understands.
Engineers and their edjamakation 😂🤣
Graham Oldreive
Is it a engineering issue or a liability issue due to outrageous lawsuits in the USA. Makes one ponder.....
Bean counters and investment bankers do more damage. Boeing.
That's a cool set of left handed vise grips 😃
Use a slightly larger nut on the busted off bolts allows for more time then a quick tack weld heating up the bolt the important part let it cool for 5-10 minutes then it almost always backs out i also use a socket wrench for more central force as the farther away you put leverage the more the weld is going to want to break dont be afraid to do it twice if needed
Ive also welded a nipple on flush bolts and burned a nut to it keeping it hot and letting it cool did a exaust bolt and a alternator bracket bolt tht were both twisted off flush in a engine bay where ya cant get a tap and drill easily
Thanks for the laugh today them comedy skits are hilarious
Great Holloween video Tayrl/Junior/Slippers!!. 👻🎃👹🐲