Thank you for this video. I had the rubber pads on both my keys fall apart and was told by Hyundai dealers that the whole unit had to be replaced as they do not to rubber pad replacements only. I was then quoted the following: Transmitter Assembly (less key) $379.70 PIN $5.34 Key Insert $36.47 Key Cutting $270.00 Sub Total $691.51 plus 10% GST brings it to a Total $760.66 per key. That's $1,521.32 for my two keys. Hyundai you know where you can stick you key replacements.
I couldn't get the rubber part in either, so i found your video. After pulling out the inner frame, i put that frames inside the rubber part and found that the rubber has a bit of fringe that wraps around the frame. After the frame is seated in the rubber properly, put the bezel around it then press it back into the fob. Bob's your uncle.
Ah! That's the way to do it then. OK. Thank you. I'm in two minds as to whether or not to leave this video up now. On the one hand, it shows an incorrect method. On the other hand, you have proven that for some people, it does lead to the correct method. Hopefully people see this comment and follow the breadcrumbs. Paul.
@@PaulinPerth Well, there's another problem. That frame isn't supposed to be removable. It seems that the button assembly is the rubber in the frame, and the pegs of the frame are melted into rivets when they are inserted into the fob housing. Prying them off breaks the rivets. Replacing the rubber back into the frame and trying to insert the frame into the housing might not fit snug enough to keep the buttons from being proud. The panic button end of my buttons are like that. Seems that your way of discarding the frame and glueing might be best after all.
@@bizzym6638I did the same as you by putting the black frame (that Paul left out) inside the back of the rubber button pad, then into the bezel, and pressing it into the fob. It was difficult to get it to click back in (as others had mentioned), and one end the rubber was sitting proud of the housing. I used a micro flat head screwdriver to gently poke the rubber down into the fob, and as you say “Bob’s ya uncle”! @PaulinPerth don’t remove your video, it’s still very helpful. Maybe you could edit it with a talk over, or pausing the picture and adding text… you could even just edit the text in your description to tell people to check the comments for more information on using the black frame to secure the rubber pad rather than glue. Thanks for sharing your video 😊 EDIT TO ADD; I should have expanded the description before commenting 😂 Awesome job Paul 😁
I think that is the key. The old ones have a "wrap under" retainer (no stakes) which makes perfect sense, wheras all the aftermarket ones I have seen don't wrap under (just sit it) but have little stakes that can only go into the holes vacated by that plastic centre filler/support. Like would be a lot easier if they made that centre plastic former have sprung/split shafts, rather than "pushed through and plastic riveted" like they are. So now I will be on the lookout for the "wrap under" inserts rather than the "staked" ones. Great observation. As I thought "Why don't they make them wrap under?" Now I know SOMEONE makes ones that DO. Cheers.
I just came back from my Hyundai dealer, where I was told that it would cost &389.00 Canadian for each fob for my 2014 Santa Fe. Outrageous! So of course it was time to go on line! Loved your demonstration. This fix will save me in excess of $800. The dealer can go pound sand!
Just make sure you read the comments that debate whether or not to retain the plastic inner frame. Some say yes, and others say no. You make the decision when you are in there. If you can get the frame out and back in cleanly, then you might want to retain it. Paul.
Thanks for the guide. What i did on the inner plastic frame was use a dreme/rotory tool and clean up the ends of the six push pins. No glue is needed for anything. Place bezel, clean up push pin ends, run new pad around the plastic inner frame, snap all back together. I caught the rubber covers (2) pack with small screwdriver included on amazon for under $5 shipped. Sure beat replacing two keys.
Thanks for making that video There's so many videos out there. You made the best one and made it easy. And I saved a lot of money. I did two keys. Thanks bro
I have an iX35 in Mexico that has had this problem for years. I had cobbled the fobs together with small bits of rubber and electrical tape. Crude, to say the least. So finally, after considering buying new fobs from the dealer, I checked TH-cam and VOILA! Paul in Perth. Wow. I ordered the rubber inserts on eBay, all of $3 or something like that, brought them down to Mexico, and it took just a few minutes to do both key fobs. They work perfectly. Super job Paul!!
Really helpful. Mine was standing proud but I was reluctant to pop out the extra piece in case I made things worse! Glad to see I was on the right lines and that glue was also required to secure the new part 👍🏼
Thanks Paul, At first glance I thought I had the wrong one as the rubber buttons looked small. But then I followed your lead and also got that proud little bastard out of there, and now it looks great.
Paul thanks to your video I repaired the keypad however I managed it whilst including the plastic insert you discarded and using no glue. The plastic insert as you pointed out has 6-7 pins that push into the main body but after prising them off I found the ends of the pins had spread out so I carefully filed each of them down until they were a push fit into the holes. I removed plastic insert and then fitted the rubber keypad to the plastic insert ensuring it was a clean fit attached the chrome bezel and then push fitted the whole assembly into the main body. It's flush, secure and works. I hope this makes sense and helps.
I found that if I assembled the keypad and the the plastic insert and dropped it in boiling water for a minute, it softened the prongs and I was able to push them in place using the back of a screwdriver. Must been done quickly so they don't harden.
This was perfect I took out the little plastic center piece and wrapped the rubber fringe with the buttons around the little black piece. Then I placed the silver piece back in and snapped the little black piece with the rubber button fridge around the little black piece and put it back into place. I did not need any glue. Thanks a bunch!
Thanks for the video, Paul! I tried to leave that black plastic prongy thingy inside (After I cleaned it quite nicely) and the rubber button replacement went in quite nicely. I haven't used glue. I will test it and if the buttons come out, I will remove the black holder thingy and add glue like you did. I have a hunch that it will work.
Hi Cyberdemon, I suspect you are right. If I did the job again, then I will try and reuse the black plastic frame. I should have tried harder than I did in this video. Paul.
I have just done two for my i30. The key is similar but does not have the silver frame. If you re-use the plastic frame you don't need to use glue. However it is a tight fit and I hat to shave the pins a little with a nail file. It then fitted snugly.
Don't need to use glue. The rubber encases the metal holder and then pops back in. It does need to be cleaned really well. But it worked just fine and fit just fine.
Great vid. Let me just say, these keys are the most ridiculous design EVER, in that EVERY other key fob I have fixed (like my Chrysler), open key fob halves, rubber then released inward, slide new one in, put halves back together, perfect. WHY couldn't Hyundai do that??? Your finding with the "leave the centre insert out". I think I found out why. That filler/centre support, whatever; that is a bugger to get out, as is plastic stakes pushed through/end melted, like a "rivet". Half the time you break it getting it out. It would appear that the aftermarket rubbers are made with leaving that out in mind. Mine had little rubber "stakes" that make it sit proud with the plastic support. I think they are designed to "leave the plastic support out/they then use the supports holes to locate" with those little stakes. I tried both. 1. I sat it in without the support, and the little stakes go into the holes vacated by the support. If they made them THICKER, they would hold it on. But glued on = works fine. 2. Get some small side cutters, cut off the 4 small rubber stakes i=on the new insert. New rubber then fits WITH the support/insert snapped in, as no stakes to "hold it out/proud." I think next time I do it, I will leave the support in there. Dig out all old rubber. Cut "stakes" off new insert, glue it on. Thanks for the vid. (I still think is a lousy design. :-) )
I persisted and didn't remove that hard plastic part. With the rubber ensure there is zero waste from the old one. Click in the 4 button plugs first and then run your finger nail around the rim like you are sealing a zip lock bag. I haven't used any glue and it is flush and solid as new. See how it goes and trust Korean engineering(2011 i40 with 308,000 km)
Update. There are indeed two completely different fob rubbers being sold, as I surmised below. 1. The cheaper ones are the "sit on outside, have 4 stakes that go into holes vacated by the centre filler, glue them on." Of course, There is an option with that, you CAN keep that centre plastic former, just trim off the 4 stakes that are meant to go into the holes vacated by the former, glue the rubber on, it WILL then sit flush. That is what I have just done with my Dad's i20 key, and it works fine. 2. The second type is the "tuck under the centre plastic former to retain, no glue required." I have ordered a couple of those. The old ones come off easily, as they break up as removed. It remains to be seen whether the new one will go on by working it around the existing former, but I doubt it. Maybe fit it without the chrome ring, then work the chrome ring under it once tucked under??? If that fails, remove former, fit rubber to that, smidge of glue on that, snap that back. When I get the tuck under one, I'll do Dad's other key and report back. 🙂
Great video thank you. I have a 2015 IX35 but the key pad doesn’t have the horn on the pad. just has the open, lock, and boot buttons so 3 in total. Can I ask where you got your replacement rubbers from please? Many thanks.
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Thank you for this video. I had the rubber pads on both my keys fall apart and was told by Hyundai dealers that the whole unit had to be replaced as they do not to rubber pad replacements only.
I was then quoted the following:
Transmitter Assembly (less key) $379.70 PIN $5.34 Key Insert $36.47 Key Cutting $270.00 Sub Total $691.51 plus 10% GST brings it to a Total $760.66 per key. That's $1,521.32 for my two keys. Hyundai you know where you can stick you key replacements.
I couldn't get the rubber part in either, so i found your video. After pulling out the inner frame, i put that frames inside the rubber part and found that the rubber has a bit of fringe that wraps around the frame. After the frame is seated in the rubber properly, put the bezel around it then press it back into the fob. Bob's your uncle.
Ah! That's the way to do it then. OK. Thank you.
I'm in two minds as to whether or not to leave this video up now. On the one hand, it shows an incorrect method. On the other hand, you have proven that for some people, it does lead to the correct method.
Hopefully people see this comment and follow the breadcrumbs.
Paul.
@@PaulinPerth Well, there's another problem. That frame isn't supposed to be removable. It seems that the button assembly is the rubber in the frame, and the pegs of the frame are melted into rivets when they are inserted into the fob housing. Prying them off breaks the rivets. Replacing the rubber back into the frame and trying to insert the frame into the housing might not fit snug enough to keep the buttons from being proud. The panic button end of my buttons are like that.
Seems that your way of discarding the frame and glueing might be best after all.
@@bizzym6638I did the same as you by putting the black frame (that Paul left out) inside the back of the rubber button pad, then into the bezel, and pressing it into the fob. It was difficult to get it to click back in (as others had mentioned), and one end the rubber was sitting proud of the housing. I used a micro flat head screwdriver to gently poke the rubber down into the fob, and as you say “Bob’s ya uncle”!
@PaulinPerth don’t remove your video, it’s still very helpful. Maybe you could edit it with a talk over, or pausing the picture and adding text… you could even just edit the text in your description to tell people to check the comments for more information on using the black frame to secure the rubber pad rather than glue. Thanks for sharing your video 😊
EDIT TO ADD; I should have expanded the description before commenting 😂 Awesome job Paul 😁
I think that is the key. The old ones have a "wrap under" retainer (no stakes) which makes perfect sense, wheras all the aftermarket ones I have seen don't wrap under (just sit it) but have little stakes that can only go into the holes vacated by that plastic centre filler/support.
Like would be a lot easier if they made that centre plastic former have sprung/split shafts, rather than "pushed through and plastic riveted" like they are.
So now I will be on the lookout for the "wrap under" inserts rather than the "staked" ones.
Great observation. As I thought "Why don't they make them wrap under?" Now I know SOMEONE makes ones that DO.
Cheers.
Thankyou this really helped👍
Thank you! This was so easy! Super clear instructions and explanation. Saved me $500 or “heaps of money” as Aussies would say 😊
I just came back from my Hyundai dealer, where I was told that it would cost &389.00 Canadian for each fob for my 2014 Santa Fe. Outrageous! So of course it was time to go on line! Loved your demonstration. This fix will save me in excess of $800. The dealer can go pound sand!
Just make sure you read the comments that debate whether or not to retain the plastic inner frame. Some say yes, and others say no. You make the decision when you are in there. If you can get the frame out and back in cleanly, then you might want to retain it. Paul.
Thanks for the guide. What i did on the inner plastic frame was use a dreme/rotory tool and clean up the ends of the six push pins. No glue is needed for anything. Place bezel, clean up push pin ends, run new pad around the plastic inner frame, snap all back together. I caught the rubber covers (2) pack with small screwdriver included on amazon for under $5 shipped. Sure beat replacing two keys.
Thanks for making that video
There's so many videos out there. You made the best one and made it easy.
And I saved a lot of money. I did two keys.
Thanks bro
I have an iX35 in Mexico that has had this problem for years. I had cobbled the fobs together with small bits of rubber and electrical tape. Crude, to say the least. So finally, after considering buying new fobs from the dealer, I checked TH-cam and VOILA! Paul in Perth. Wow. I ordered the rubber inserts on eBay, all of $3 or something like that, brought them down to Mexico, and it took just a few minutes to do both key fobs. They work perfectly. Super job Paul!!
Well done Peter! I'm glad I was able to help. Paul.
Really helpful. Mine was standing proud but I was reluctant to pop out the extra piece in case I made things worse! Glad to see I was on the right lines and that glue was also required to secure the new part 👍🏼
Thanks Paul,
At first glance I thought I had the wrong one as the rubber buttons looked small. But then I followed your lead and also got that proud little bastard out of there, and now it looks great.
Paul thanks to your video I repaired the keypad however I managed it whilst including the plastic insert you discarded and using no glue. The plastic insert as you pointed out has 6-7 pins that push into the main body but after prising them off I found the ends of the pins had spread out so I carefully filed each of them down until they were a push fit into the holes. I removed plastic insert and then fitted the rubber keypad to the plastic insert ensuring it was a clean fit attached the chrome bezel and then push fitted the whole assembly into the main body. It's flush, secure and works. I hope this makes sense and helps.
I found that if I assembled the keypad and the the plastic insert and dropped it in boiling water for a minute, it softened the prongs and I was able to push them in place using the back of a screwdriver. Must been done quickly so they don't harden.
This was perfect I took out the little plastic center piece and wrapped the rubber fringe with the buttons around the little black piece. Then I placed the silver piece back in and snapped the little black piece with the rubber button fridge around the little black piece and put it back into place. I did not need any glue. Thanks a bunch!
Well done!
@@PaulinPerth Thank! 🙂
Just did this (two fobs) works a treat.
Thank you, Paul !!!!!!!! From ALL the videos About replacing/repairing YOURS are the BEST !!!!!!!!!! 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Thanks for the video, Paul! I tried to leave that black plastic prongy thingy inside (After I cleaned it quite nicely) and the rubber button replacement went in quite nicely. I haven't used glue. I will test it and if the buttons come out, I will remove the black holder thingy and add glue like you did. I have a hunch that it will work.
Hi Cyberdemon,
I suspect you are right. If I did the job again, then I will try and reuse the black plastic frame. I should have tried harder than I did in this video.
Paul.
Ragazzi dopo ore di smadonnamenti ecco la soluzione, dovete prima estrarre la plastica interna e fare i passi come lui.
Ottimo video ❤❤❤
Your video made this so easy thanks so much
you saved me $300 thank you so much!!
I have just done two for my i30. The key is similar but does not have the silver frame. If you re-use the plastic frame you don't need to use glue. However it is a tight fit and I hat to shave the pins a little with a nail file. It then fitted snugly.
Don't need to use glue. The rubber encases the metal holder and then pops back in. It does need to be cleaned really well. But it worked just fine and fit just fine.
Great vid.
Let me just say, these keys are the most ridiculous design EVER, in that EVERY other key fob I have fixed (like my Chrysler), open key fob halves, rubber then released inward, slide new one in, put halves back together, perfect.
WHY couldn't Hyundai do that???
Your finding with the "leave the centre insert out". I think I found out why. That filler/centre support, whatever; that is a bugger to get out, as is plastic stakes pushed through/end melted, like a "rivet". Half the time you break it getting it out.
It would appear that the aftermarket rubbers are made with leaving that out in mind. Mine had little rubber "stakes" that make it sit proud with the plastic support. I think they are designed to "leave the plastic support out/they then use the supports holes to locate" with those little stakes.
I tried both.
1. I sat it in without the support, and the little stakes go into the holes vacated by the support. If they made them THICKER, they would hold it on. But glued on = works fine.
2. Get some small side cutters, cut off the 4 small rubber stakes i=on the new insert. New rubber then fits WITH the support/insert snapped in, as no stakes to "hold it out/proud."
I think next time I do it, I will leave the support in there. Dig out all old rubber. Cut "stakes" off new insert, glue it on.
Thanks for the vid. (I still think is a lousy design. :-) )
Thanks for sharing. Your method has worked perfectly for me 🙏🌞
Thanks Paul. This was a big help.
You are most welcome Chris. I'm so happy to have helped. Paul in Perth, Australia.
I persisted and didn't remove that hard plastic part. With the rubber ensure there is zero waste from the old one. Click in the 4 button plugs first and then run your finger nail around the rim like you are sealing a zip lock bag. I haven't used any glue and it is flush and solid as new. See how it goes and trust Korean engineering(2011 i40 with 308,000 km)
Well done. I thought that way should be possible. I'm glad it is.
Thanks Paul, for this video seems easy I will give mine a try
Update.
There are indeed two completely different fob rubbers being sold, as I surmised below.
1. The cheaper ones are the "sit on outside, have 4 stakes that go into holes vacated by the centre filler, glue them on."
Of course, There is an option with that, you CAN keep that centre plastic former, just trim off the 4 stakes that are meant to go into the holes vacated by the former, glue the rubber on, it WILL then sit flush. That is what I have just done with my Dad's i20 key, and it works fine.
2. The second type is the "tuck under the centre plastic former to retain, no glue required." I have ordered a couple of those. The old ones come off easily, as they break up as removed.
It remains to be seen whether the new one will go on by working it around the existing former, but I doubt it. Maybe fit it without the chrome ring, then work the chrome ring under it once tucked under???
If that fails, remove former, fit rubber to that, smidge of glue on that, snap that back.
When I get the tuck under one, I'll do Dad's other key and report back. 🙂
Thanks for documenting that. Everyone will benefit from it. Cheers. Paul.
This video was awesome! Thank you!!!🎉
Video helped me a lot! Thank you!
Brilliant video. Thanks, Paul.
Great video thank you. I have a 2015 IX35 but the key pad doesn’t have the horn on the pad. just has the open, lock, and boot buttons so 3 in total. Can I ask where you got your replacement rubbers from please? Many thanks.
eBay.
I used Temu. I have the same with the 3 keys open/lock/boot config.
Cost me about $10 then I also spent $5 on a cover to keep it safe too
Awesome video. Thank you
Thank you so much!