Thanks for the question. It looks like I left out an important step here. In other videos I explain that the frames placed in the upper box above the excluder have the bees shaken off into the lower box the day before. This insures that the queen is in the lower box when we split the colony the next day. My mistake. I missed that step in this video.
I made the cut!! Lol. Words can not express how Thankful I am to you for allowing me to “tag along” and soak up all of your knowledge! Also, Thank you to the guys, they are an awesome crew!
Wow I would have loved to have been able to get to purchase some of those nuc wood boxes . My nucs boxes have just about seen there last days . It’s always a pleasure to watch your crew work. Everyone knows what everyone else is doing an you get it done. Thanks
Thank you so much for this video. I am down to only one hive here in Wisconsin and will use the queen excluder method to build back up. That is when Mother Nature is in a better mood! 😊🐝
Thanks for the Video Bob. I pulled girls from shed but this last few days has went back to a chill and some snow. They have what they need to make it till warms back up in 40s and they fly again. Cant wait till i can get stung a few as it helps with pain i think. Take car
Thanks for sharing your valuable wisdom Bob 👍🏼.... I successfully used the method of using a queen excluder to make my first split last spring. It was real easy. Didn't need to shake any bees. Cheers from NJ USA
Beekeeping isn't easy as a young hobby beekeeper, but you help keep me going. I almost quit after my 3rd year, but the things I've learned from you brought me out of that and have given me hope. Thank you for sharing so much from candles to splitting to pest management through TH-cam. I always look forward to your video. Jason in Upper East Tennessee
I love the videos u make they are great I have learned a lot from u. I could sit and watch them all day long. My bees look the best I have ever seen them yes I had loss and yes some came out weak but the equalizing has made almost all my hives into production hives this looks like it is going to be the best year for honey I have ever had U Bob are just a wonderful person to make them to teach me and others the art and science of keeping the bees thank u so much again Have a blessed week
I love this! This is such a great way of making splits. One beauty of this method is that when you remove the brood and place it into a queenless hive, the bees might make emergency cells. With this method, however, you can "age out" the brood above that QE so there are no larvae that are young enough for emergency cells. Of course, this isn't what you're doing in this video. Thanks for showing this, Bob!
Always a treat to watch and learn from your videos Sir. Thanks for putting together great content. Great team you’ve got there and fun to watch you all work together seamlessly.
5-10% winter loss and 100 pound average on a spring flow in GA is amazing. I’m surprised everyone isn’t copying your methods, although it appears to require intensive management. Looks like your in your colonies a lot.
Hey Bob, you should start a monthly subscription and do a in depth weekly update. I would pay to see how any operation such as yours runs on weekly basis during an entire season. I really appreciate the time you put into these videos and have taught me alot! Thanks!!
Cheeseboard is the way to go! I build all my lids, double screen boards, honey supers, and bottom boards out of it. It holds together great and the price is right!
Fantastic Beekeeping Operation fab Bob 🐝🐝👌 I follow you operation from day one my Beekeeping and I put some of this in my jards and works really well 🐝🐝 🍯🐝😉 Thank you for your share information Bob Sebastian
Great to see some additions to the crew. We split hives in many different ways, depending on our intended outcome, but use many of the same techniques as you. Your videos are always informative. We appreciate the masking tape trick. It will be useful when our candy making isn’t quite perfect and save time removing the caps for the jzbz cage. Thanks for sharing that.
Hello Bob. Great video. I'll be introducing most of the queens. That I purchase from you in a few weeks. Into some of my honey production colonies. I think you should do a video on that.
When I buy a five frame nuc I want to see it packed with bees . All sides and top of frames covered with bees . I’m a stickler for that . The man I buy nucs from allows me to pick which ones I want . I find that the best way to get a hive started fast . If I pay $200 for a nuc then I need to get the best deal . I love to watch your methods and use them in many management practices. I have one colony that has stored twenty pounds of honey in a super already and our flows really haven’t begun yet. Black cherry , black berry , wild rose , privet and poplar haven’t started blooming yet.
Hi Bob, instead of adding a deep after the split, can we just add medium supers instead for the honey flow leaving the bottom deep just for a brood nest, then add back a deep after the flow?
Question for you Mr Binnie. If I have a laying worker can I place a hive on top with a good laying queen with paper in between to save the other colony
on the topic of being under high voltage lines, i had my couple of hives almost directly under some for about 2 years, and never noticed any problems with them. mating was fine, and they produced a lot of honey at that spot... until the power company told me i had to move them to cut down the weeds.
@@bobbinnie9872 I would absolutely love that! I'm an aspiring queen rearer and would really love visiting during that season. learned a lot from you the last few years and I appreciate it
So each original hive gets 3 frames of brood and the queen under a queen excluder, everything else goes above the queen excluder. Come back a few days later and make nucs with what is above the excluder. The remaining hive with the old queen is able to build up enough to still make over 100 pounds of honey? Do I understand this right??
That is correct. But keep in mind that when we did this video it was still five weeks to the start of the honey flow and we are feeding thin syrup to build up on for the first couple of weeks. They also have a late summer queen that will hit her peak this spring.
Our fences near power lines work fine but we never put them directly under. The reason they are cautioning against this may be that if the lines ever fall and touch the fence your current may flow into the lines and cause problems for linemen. Just a guess.
Hope Sadler 1 day ago @Bob Binnie As it turned out, after I put a coat of paint inside the hole it's too tight, so I'll get a 71 mm. Another question, in the video you mentioned leaving 3 frames of brood. How long would it take for them to be ready for the flow? Would adding thin syrup and a pollen patty be helpful? Thanks as always Bob.
A split with three frames of brood would take a couple of months to peak in population but they could be making surplus honey before then with a good flow. Adding thin syrup and pollen substitute would certainly help them grow faster and easier in the absence of a nectar and pollen flow.
@Bob Binnie Thanks, Bob. If you were splitting a strong single colony in mid-March, how many brood frames would you leave in the mother colony for them to start making honey the second week of April?
Bob, Scott here from Northern California, the Timing box you built me is working great, what is the type of wood that was used to build bottom and top of that timing box? Amazing how heavy and well built. Thank you Sir.
Hi Scott. It is HDO (high density overlay). It's most commonly used by concrete wall contractors and can be a bit hard to find in some locations. I would think Sacramento or the bay area would have a distributer that sells it. It's the best plywood for beekeepers but it's expensive.
Hi Bob, when you speak of a frame of food, does it matter if it is crystallised capped honey or if it should be runny honey which is capped or with the preference be for uncapped fresh incoming nectar?
@@bobbinnie9872 thank you!! I really appreciate the fact that you reply even on older videos you've posted, perhaps even questions asked ten times over, I can't say this enough, greetings from Romania!!
The field bees will go home which can be a good thing if you are introducing queens. There has to be plenty of young bees left in the nuc though. We shake in extras.
Bob, do you know if bees need to produce more wax making natural drawn comb vs building out from foundation? Does foundation somehow give the bees a head start on building out wax?
Hey Bob, ran into a scenario I haven’t experienced yet…. Saw a dozen or so bees on the ground covering a queen 100’ from my apiary. Scoop her up put her in a clip and made a 3 frame nuc and released her to experiment. Mite washed a few other hives later that day and found a colony with a deep & medium followed by a excluder then 2 supers on top. The super above the excluder was honey and the super above that was 10 frames of solid capped brood (pretty impressive). There were thousands of bees around me so I didn’t get a chance to get to the bottom box to look for the queen/eggs/larvae…. I’m assuming the queen left through the vent hole on top… if I don’t find her/eggs/larvae and no queen cells, can I add a frame of stick eggs from another hive so they can build some queen cells? How would ya handle this scenario? Thanks!
These scenarios can be a number of possibilities. Of course the first thing to do is check the bottom for signs of a queen. If there is none, giving them some eggs would never hurt and could help if they're inclined to make a queen.
Hi Peter. We don't have one on this specific box but do have one on a box that is very similar. "How To Make Nuc Boxes In Number" th-cam.com/video/dkcCvhzkizc/w-d-xo.html
It started as an accident. The last time we painted our house we had some yellow left over and used it on some bee boxes. We liked it so much that we now buy it on purpose. It's two coats of acrylic latex enamel on top of an oil base primer.
@@bobbinnie9872 Well done Bob. Oil based primer followed by two coats of exterior acrylic ( water based ) paint. Oil based solvent primer is impermeable to water whereas an acrylic primer is water resistant. The oil primer should also be slapped liberally on the joints prior to box assembly. I apply one coat of oil primer to the inside of my boxes as well to completely seal the substrate. Mate if you ever come to Australia and need a job as a painter give me a yell :). You do a wonderful job mate imparting your knowledge.
We don't have one on plywood but we do have on with pine wood and some of the cyts are the same. "How To Make Nuc Boxes In Number". th-cam.com/video/dkcCvhzkizc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Bob,I'm wondering in how much time they will get to peak population and probably swarm if you just add second deep box above and didn't split them?
I'm sure each region and each season would be different. It would also probably be affected by how much foundation is involved and wether you are feeding or not. In our area it would probably take four to possibly five weeks as long as there is lots of drawn comb in the second box.
What is entrance orientation when using the double screen board on 4way pallet. I could see in video one entrance facing same as lower box but couldn't see the entrance on the one next to it.
Bob, if you have an exceptionally strong colony do you ever put two double screened dividers and two hive bodies above the parent colony? It seems that it would work if there were sufficient initial resources.
Hey Bob hope all is well! Quick question: How long before the honey flow do you leave three frames of brood to allow the colony to build back up to full force? Appreciate your videos and all that you do. -An Ohio Beekeeper
After three days of the brood being above the excluder are you concerned about the start of queen cells? My concern is they might reject your cell or mated queen and make their own.
We've never had a problem with this configuration. If there was one or two more boxes between our frames of brood in the top and the lower brood nest there would be a much greater chance of that happening.
@@bobbinnie9872 thank you so much Bob, I sure learn a lot of stuff from your videos, I love the way you systematically do things, makes things very efficient.
If you're trying to reestablish an existing location with a laying worker, and use new brood to do it, I would shake them out and remove the equipment or stack it on another colony for a couple of days first. Then it will be a fresh start.
Hi Hope. If we have drawn comb we will use it up equally throughout the colonies being split and then add enough foundation to finish filling the boxes. Sometimes we have a lot and sometimes a little but we always use it all up.
@bobbinnie9872 I bought a 70mm hole saw and used it today. What a great tool vs what I was doing. I have about 120 available drawn combs, so I will have to mix. I'm feel sure I will need to feed for them to draw out?
@@hopesadler4000 Hi Hope. Feeding could help them move into the comb quicker. Also, if you're using a 70mm or 70G lid that fits a standard quart jar you'll need a 71 mm hole.
Thx for the video. Makes me wanta get at it. Temps in low 20s here tho. I live next to a power transfer station. No issues with the big power lines or the station here either. But yah gotta keep after the trimming crews. They will sneak in pesticides especially Round Up. They get a sharp reprimand from me if I see a sprayer. Last year a big transformer blew. The massive crane truck to remove/replace made a awful sound. I could feel it and so could the bees. The hive I was working went nuclear on me. The other 70 plus hives went on alert. I called a warning to the linemen but my bees only took it out in me fortunately. Power lines... no issue. Big crane trucks... red alert!
The less chemicals the better of course but most beekeepers have used Apivar at one time or another so it really comes down to how much and for how long. The bees tolerate a moderate amount OK.
We purchase the buckets from Pipeline Packaging by the pallet and put the holes and plugs in them ourselves. We sell them at our store. Call 706 782 6722 if interested.
It looks and sounds as if you are adding the equivalent of 2 1/2 to 3 frames of brood to nucs you plan to sell in 3 weeks. Is that correct and are they on the verge of being too big by the time you sell them?
Will honey bees thrive on the pollen from Pine trees? This source of pollen is available by the pound for the taking and would greatly reduce my expenses in feeding. Thanks for another great video!
Hi and greetings from New Zealand. Bob, I love your videos, I am going into my second year as a beekeeper and have used the double screen boards this winter with good success. My question is; do the glass jars cause a fire risk in dry conditions, I guess I could put an empty deep over them?
Hi Bob, enjoyed the video. I was curious what the temperature was when you did this? I want to make a taranov split which also leaves brood exposed for a short while and I am concerned about the brood getting too cold. Thanks, Gary
Hi Gary. We work bees down to the mid forty's f. It's not ideal but the key is to not leave the brood exposed very long. I like to explain it like this. You could walk to the mail box in front of your house and back in a tee shirt when it's ten degrees outside. You wouldn't like it but you would be OK once you get back inside. You just couldn't stay out very long.
Yes, we do it a lot but make sure they have at least one more frame of bees. It wouldn't be a good choice if they are raising their own queen though. Small units like that do best if they are given a queen cell or mated queen.
With the price and availability of HDO(I can not find any in Kansas City),are you still making your double screen boards with HDO? If not, what’s your next best material?
We are still making our double screen boards with 5/8 HDO but it is costing a lot more than it used too. We could make them out of any type of plywood and then dip them in wax and if we can't get HDO in the future we may do that.
Beautiful video, thank you for sharing your knowledge. One question: if you harvest honey from the first box/ super where you allowed them to move up temporarily, is it ok to harvest from that comb? You don’t worry about residue from cocoons and brood?
If they have enough honey (stores) and drawn comb we may not feed them. If they need it, the two gallon bucket will hopefully be all they will get to make it to the early nectar flows.
Hey Mr. Binnie i love your videos they provide me with endless knowledge and as a beginner beekeeper hoping to go commercial one day the help is priceless. I have one question and I'm sure you must have answered it before but I haven't found it in any of your videos so far. what is the nozzle and pump system you use for the syrup tank? I hope you can find time in your busy life to answer this and if not thats fine as well. I will just keep watching with the same attention and respect as always. have a great day and keep on learning us these good facts :)
With the method you did right at the end, how do you know if the original queen is in the top or the bottom brood box when splitting them?
Thanks for the question. It looks like I left out an important step here. In other videos I explain that the frames placed in the upper box above the excluder have the bees shaken off into the lower box the day before. This insures that the queen is in the lower box when we split the colony the next day. My mistake. I missed that step in this video.
I'm on a Bob binnie marathon watch it again mood. Lol. When it warms up I'm going in a split mode here in NC. Thanks again Bob!
Sure love seeing all the guys working together! Nothing but smiles watching:) Great seeing Molly and Angela in there too!
Thanks Greg. They both had a wonderful time.
Makes me want to climb out of this snow bank to work bees!
I've been watching your winter weather clips. No fun!
Man such a talented and wise man Bob is . A great crew to boot … That is a dream to get to that level ( says me with only two hives )
I made the cut!! Lol. Words can not express how Thankful I am to you for allowing me to “tag along” and soak up all of your knowledge! Also, Thank you to the guys, they are an awesome crew!
Wow I would have loved to have been able to get to purchase some of those nuc wood boxes . My nucs boxes have just about seen there last days . It’s always a pleasure to watch your crew work. Everyone knows what everyone else is doing an you get it done. Thanks
It is nice to see the bees and green grass! our snow is just going off.
Enjoy and learn so much from your videos. Thanks to you and your wonderful team 🙏
Bob, your knowledge of bees amazes me!
Wow!! A shout out from that southern rock star beekeeper! THAT MADE MY MORNING 2nd cup of COFFEE worth it☕️
Did the snow melt to get Tim Hortons? BTW its 29c here 😌
You most certainly deserve it!!!
Great information as always. Thanks for sharing Bob. Like the Tape on the Queen candy trick!
Always a pleasure to watch your videos bob .
Top information from all of your videos. I have to watch each a couple of times. Thank you very much 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you.👍
we will be in the area this weekend and will be stopping by the shop. Thank you for all you do.
See you there.
You ser are best of the best. Young in mind and full of knowlige. I learned a lot from you, and I m still learning.
Sorry, full of knowledge
Worth to watch more than one while waiting new video 😊😊
So informative!! Thanks Mr Binnie. Waiting on the next one. God bless from Texas.
Thank you.
Thank you so much for this video. I am down to only one hive here in Wisconsin and will use the queen excluder method to build back up. That is when Mother Nature is in a better mood! 😊🐝
Thanks for the Video Bob. I pulled girls from shed but this last few days has went back to a chill and some snow. They have what they need to make it till warms back up in 40s and they fly again. Cant wait till i can get stung a few as it helps with pain i think. Take car
You are blessed to have such a great crew of employees. Thanks for the valuable information. Watching drinking from BRHC ☕️ cup!
Thanks, love the cup!
Thanks for sharing your valuable wisdom Bob 👍🏼.... I successfully used the method of using a queen excluder to make my first split last spring. It was real easy. Didn't need to shake any bees.
Cheers from NJ USA
Beekeeping isn't easy as a young hobby beekeeper, but you help keep me going. I almost quit after my 3rd year, but the things I've learned from you brought me out of that and have given me hope. Thank you for sharing so much from candles to splitting to pest management through TH-cam. I always look forward to your video. Jason in Upper East Tennessee
Thank you.
I love the videos u make they are great I have learned a lot from u. I could sit and watch them all day long. My bees look the best I have ever seen them yes I had loss and yes some came out weak but the equalizing has made almost all my hives into production hives this looks like it is going to be the best year for honey I have ever had U Bob are just a wonderful person to make them to teach me and others the art and science of keeping the bees thank u so much again Have a blessed week
Thanks Frances.
That red pollen of Lamium purpureum is very good for bees, it grows like dough. Greetings from Serbia
I love this! This is such a great way of making splits. One beauty of this method is that when you remove the brood and place it into a queenless hive, the bees might make emergency cells. With this method, however, you can "age out" the brood above that QE so there are no larvae that are young enough for emergency cells. Of course, this isn't what you're doing in this video. Thanks for showing this, Bob!
Good point, thank you.
Thank for sharing this method of splitting bees. Good info even for the experienced beekeeper. Thanks Mr Bob.
Going to check on queens above DSB today. Thanks for all the knowledge.
Great way of doing it! Love your videos Bob!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks 👍
Great video! Very well edited and informative. Going to try using your double screen splitting method this year. Best of luck, thanks Bob.
Always a treat to watch and learn from your videos Sir. Thanks for putting together great content.
Great team you’ve got there and fun to watch you all work together seamlessly.
We truly appreciate the time you take to educate and inform us Bob! This is a great video full of information. Thank you!
Hi Dawn. Thanks for the kind words. Say hi to Chris and Natalie.
Love your vid as ND here in Malta me and my grandpa use you vids for advise
good looking bees Mr. Bob. Hope your season goes well GOD bless
Thank you.
Foodie Broody, I learn something from every video LoL 👍 thanks Bob, good health and God bless 👍
Thanks, and the same for you. 👍
5-10% winter loss and 100 pound average on a spring flow in GA is amazing. I’m surprised everyone isn’t copying your methods, although it appears to require intensive management. Looks like your in your colonies a lot.
Love watching this. I see it as preparation studies for when I get enough colonies to go commercial :)
Good job as always. Lou and I are trying to get down to see you and Suzette this year.
Hi Al. Call or email ahead to make sure we can meet.
Hey Bob, you should start a monthly subscription and do a in depth weekly update. I would pay to see how any operation such as yours runs on weekly basis during an entire season. I really appreciate the time you put into these videos and have taught me alot! Thanks!!
Thanks for the suggestion but I can barely get one video a week out now. Perhaps in the future.
@@bobbinnie9872I completely understand! Thanks for the reply sir please stay safe out there!
Cheeseboard is the way to go! I build all my lids, double screen boards, honey supers, and bottom boards out of it. It holds together great and the price is right!
Where do you get the cheeseboards from?
Fantastic Beekeeping Operation fab Bob 🐝🐝👌 I follow you operation from day one my Beekeeping and I put some of this in my jards and works really well 🐝🐝 🍯🐝😉
Thank you for your share information Bob
Sebastian
Thank you.
Great to see some additions to the crew. We split hives in many different ways, depending on our intended outcome, but use many of the same techniques as you. Your videos are always informative. We appreciate the masking tape trick. It will be useful when our candy making isn’t quite perfect and save time removing the caps for the jzbz cage. Thanks for sharing that.
Thank you. The additions are just visitors.
Those boxes look really nice!
Thank you for showing, Bob. Those are some beefy nucs. Your customers must be happy, I sure would be.
Thanks.
Great video Bob as always
Thanks for the video, Bob.
Hello Bob. Great video. I'll be introducing most of the queens. That I purchase from you in a few weeks. Into some of my honey production colonies. I think you should do a video on that.
When I buy a five frame nuc I want to see it packed with bees . All sides and top of frames covered with bees . I’m a stickler for that . The man I buy nucs from allows me to pick which ones I want . I find that the best way to get a hive started fast . If I pay $200 for a nuc then I need to get the best deal . I love to watch your methods and use them in many management practices. I have one colony that has stored twenty pounds of honey in a super already and our flows really haven’t begun yet. Black cherry , black berry , wild rose , privet and poplar haven’t started blooming yet.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Hi Bob, instead of adding a deep after the split, can we just add medium supers instead for the honey flow leaving the bottom deep just for a brood nest, then add back a deep after the flow?
Yes, that will work if the timing is right.
Love ❤️ your videos Mr Binnie.... saw you at the Hive Life Conference... but, didn’t get a chance to say Hello 👋
Sorry I missed you. Next time for sure.
@@bobbinnie9872 I will be there next year and bringing the wife... hopefully we can catch up
Still snowing good here in PA Bob looks nice down there
Hang in there. That too will pass before you know it.
Question for you Mr Binnie. If I have a laying worker can I place a hive on top with a good laying queen with paper in between to save the other colony
Yes. It's helpful if the queen-rite colony isn't smaller than the laying worker.
on the topic of being under high voltage lines, i had my couple of hives almost directly under some for about 2 years, and never noticed any problems with them. mating was fine, and they produced a lot of honey at that spot... until the power company told me i had to move them to cut down the weeds.
really enjoy your vids and explanation of your processes. would enjoy working with you! keep the vids coming please!
Come visit us sometime. My email is on the "About" page.
@@bobbinnie9872 I would absolutely love that! I'm an aspiring queen rearer and would really love visiting during that season. learned a lot from you the last few years and I appreciate it
So each original hive gets 3 frames of brood and the queen under a queen excluder, everything else goes above the queen excluder. Come back a few days later and make nucs with what is above the excluder. The remaining hive with the old queen is able to build up enough to still make over 100 pounds of honey? Do I understand this right??
That is correct. But keep in mind that when we did this video it was still five weeks to the start of the honey flow and we are feeding thin syrup to build up on for the first couple of weeks. They also have a late summer queen that will hit her peak this spring.
@@bobbinnie9872 Plus the hive draws out what 4 or more frames of foundation. Not bad, and no worries of swarming either is there?
@@russellkoopman3004 No swarming is the key.
Bob, my electric fencer says not to put the fence under parallel power lines. Could that be an issue?
Our fences near power lines work fine but we never put them directly under. The reason they are cautioning against this may be that if the lines ever fall and touch the fence your current may flow into the lines and cause problems for linemen. Just a guess.
Hope Sadler
1 day ago
@Bob Binnie As it turned out, after I put a coat of paint inside the hole it's too tight, so I'll get a 71 mm. Another question, in the video you mentioned leaving 3 frames of brood. How long would it take for them to be ready for the flow? Would adding thin syrup and a pollen patty be helpful? Thanks as always Bob.
A split with three frames of brood would take a couple of months to peak in population but they could be making surplus honey before then with a good flow. Adding thin syrup and pollen substitute would certainly help them grow faster and easier in the absence of a nectar and pollen flow.
@Bob Binnie Thanks, Bob. If you were splitting a strong single colony in mid-March, how many brood frames would you leave in the mother colony for them to start making honey the second week of April?
@Bob Binnie What happens to the new colony if you do not introduce a new queen??
If they have eggs or young larvae they will try to make a new queen.
When make splits with an over overwinter hive, what is the minimum brood frames should you leave in that hive?
It depends on the timing for us. If it's a month from the honey flow and the brood nest is two deep boxes we leave 5 or 6 frames of brood.
Bob, Scott here from Northern California, the Timing box you built me is working great, what is the type of wood that was used to build bottom and top of that timing box? Amazing how heavy and well built. Thank you Sir.
Hi Scott. It is HDO (high density overlay). It's most commonly used by concrete wall contractors and can be a bit hard to find in some locations. I would think Sacramento or the bay area would have a distributer that sells it. It's the best plywood for beekeepers but it's expensive.
Hey Bob, may I ask what is painted black on the beehive lid? Will the black color cause the temperature to be higher?
We have a few lids that are dipped in paraffin wax and they turn dark in time. And yes they do get warmer.
Hi Bob, when you speak of a frame of food, does it matter if it is crystallised capped honey or if it should be runny honey which is capped or with the preference be for uncapped fresh incoming nectar?
Crystallized can work although liquid frames are better and of course incoming nectar is the best.
@@bobbinnie9872 thank you!! I really appreciate the fact that you reply even on older videos you've posted, perhaps even questions asked ten times over, I can't say this enough, greetings from Romania!!
Bob the bee builder hard at it!
Do you always want to move nucs to another yard? What happens if they stay at the current yard?
The field bees will go home which can be a good thing if you are introducing queens. There has to be plenty of young bees left in the nuc though. We shake in extras.
@@bobbinnie9872 Wow, thanks so much for taking the time to answer! Much appreciated.
Wish I was local, I would have liked to volunteer to help out with the splits at UGA ☺️
Bob, do you know if bees need to produce more wax making natural drawn comb vs building out from foundation? Does foundation somehow give the bees a head start on building out wax?
Hi Brad. I would think having foundation helps. It seems logical but I don't have any proof.
Hey Bob, ran into a scenario I haven’t experienced yet…. Saw a dozen or so bees on the ground covering a queen 100’ from my apiary. Scoop her up put her in a clip and made a 3 frame nuc and released her to experiment. Mite washed a few other hives later that day and found a colony with a deep & medium followed by a excluder then 2 supers on top. The super above the excluder was honey and the super above that was 10 frames of solid capped brood (pretty impressive). There were thousands of bees around me so I didn’t get a chance to get to the bottom box to look for the queen/eggs/larvae…. I’m assuming the queen left through the vent hole on top… if I don’t find her/eggs/larvae and no queen cells, can I add a frame of stick eggs from another hive so they can build some queen cells? How would ya handle this scenario? Thanks!
These scenarios can be a number of possibilities. Of course the first thing to do is check the bottom for signs of a queen. If there is none, giving them some eggs would never hurt and could help if they're inclined to make a queen.
By any chance was there a video of making the nuc boxes ???
Hi Peter. We don't have one on this specific box but do have one on a box that is very similar. "How To Make Nuc Boxes In Number" th-cam.com/video/dkcCvhzkizc/w-d-xo.html
What kind of yellow do you use on some of your deeps?
It started as an accident. The last time we painted our house we had some yellow left over and used it on some bee boxes. We liked it so much that we now buy it on purpose. It's two coats of acrylic latex enamel on top of an oil base primer.
@@bobbinnie9872 Well done Bob. Oil based primer followed by two coats of exterior acrylic ( water based ) paint. Oil based solvent primer is impermeable to water whereas an acrylic primer is water resistant. The oil primer should also be slapped liberally on the joints prior to box assembly. I apply one coat of oil primer to the inside of my boxes as well to completely seal the substrate. Mate if you ever come to Australia and need a job as a painter give me a yell :). You do a wonderful job mate imparting your knowledge.
Do you have a video on how you make the plywood nucs?
We don't have one on plywood but we do have on with pine wood and some of the cyts are the same. "How To Make Nuc Boxes In Number". th-cam.com/video/dkcCvhzkizc/w-d-xo.html
@@bobbinnie9872 Great video, thanks!
Thanks Bob,I'm wondering in how much time they will get to peak population and probably swarm if you just add second deep box above and didn't split them?
I'm sure each region and each season would be different. It would also probably be affected by how much foundation is involved and wether you are feeding or not. In our area it would probably take four to possibly five weeks as long as there is lots of drawn comb in the second box.
What is entrance orientation when using the double screen board on 4way pallet. I could see in video one entrance facing same as lower box but couldn't see the entrance on the one next to it.
There is a good shot of this in our video "Overwintering Nucs on a Double Screen Board" at time 9:55. th-cam.com/video/EI281J1FrZI/w-d-xo.html
Thank you.
🫡
Bob, if you have an exceptionally strong colony do you ever put two double screened dividers and two hive bodies above the parent colony? It seems that it would work if there were sufficient initial resources.
What you describe would work fine but I haven't done it.
Hey Bob hope all is well!
Quick question: How long before the honey flow do you leave three frames of brood to allow the colony to build back up to full force?
Appreciate your videos and all that you do.
-An Ohio Beekeeper
Depending on conditions three frames could be peaking in 8 week or perhaps a bit more. Again, depending on conditions.
After three days of the brood being above the excluder are you concerned about the start of queen cells? My concern is they might reject your cell or mated queen and make their own.
We've never had a problem with this configuration. If there was one or two more boxes between our frames of brood in the top and the lower brood nest there would be a much greater chance of that happening.
@@bobbinnie9872 thank you so much Bob, I sure learn a lot of stuff from your videos, I love the way you systematically do things, makes things very efficient.
Hey Bob if I have a laying worker should I shake them before adding worker brood
If you're trying to reestablish an existing location with a laying worker, and use new brood to do it, I would shake them out and remove the equipment or stack it on another colony for a couple of days first. Then it will be a fresh start.
@@bobbinnie9872 thanks really enjoy your videos I'm going to try to rearing my own Queens this year thank you for all the videos on it
Hey Bob, In the mother colony, are you replacing the frames with all drawn comb or mixed with foundation. Thank you.
Hi Hope. If we have drawn comb we will use it up equally throughout the colonies being split and then add enough foundation to finish filling the boxes. Sometimes we have a lot and sometimes a little but we always use it all up.
@bobbinnie9872 Gotcha. Thank you Bob.
@bobbinnie9872 I bought a 70mm hole saw and used it today. What a great tool vs what I was doing. I have about 120 available drawn combs, so I will have to mix. I'm feel sure I will need to feed for them to draw out?
@@hopesadler4000 Hi Hope. Feeding could help them move into the comb quicker. Also, if you're using a 70mm or 70G lid that fits a standard quart jar you'll need a 71 mm hole.
@bobbinnie9872 It's funny, originally I ordered a 71mm and the quart jars didn't fit snug, so I ordered the 70 and it's a perfect fit.
Hi Bob I wonder how long you can let the Hive go until you have to put a Queen in using the Queen excluded With the nuke on top
Hi Don. Forget the question I asked on your other comment. As long as there is still brood present you can use you are good to go.
Thx for the video. Makes me wanta get at it. Temps in low 20s here tho. I live next to a power transfer station. No issues with the big power lines or the station here either. But yah gotta keep after the trimming crews. They will sneak in pesticides especially Round Up. They get a sharp reprimand from me if I see a sprayer. Last year a big transformer blew. The massive crane truck to remove/replace made a awful sound. I could feel it and so could the bees. The hive I was working went nuclear on me. The other 70 plus hives went on alert. I called a warning to the linemen but my bees only took it out in me fortunately. Power lines... no issue. Big crane trucks... red alert!
Sounds like a true beekeeping adventure.😂
@@bobbinnie9872 Fortunately I react very little to bee stings. But they can smart when 20 or 30 hammer you.
What are your thoughts on using deep frames that have previously had amitraz in them?
The less chemicals the better of course but most beekeepers have used Apivar at one time or another so it really comes down to how much and for how long. The bees tolerate a moderate amount OK.
Where do you get your feeder buckets?
We purchase the buckets from Pipeline Packaging by the pallet and put the holes and plugs in them ourselves. We sell them at our store. Call 706 782 6722 if interested.
Bob how long should i wait to go in my new nuc after i put in bigger box?
A week or so should be a good time.
It looks and sounds as if you are adding the equivalent of 2 1/2 to 3 frames of brood to nucs you plan to sell in 3 weeks. Is that correct and are they on the verge of being too big by the time you sell them?
Yes and yes. That's one of the reasons the box needs to be well ventilated.
Bob do you get much propolius with your Caucasian hives.I had one years ago but they made it really hard to work the hive, so much bee glue. thanks
We do experience more propolis but we work and split our colonies a lot so it doesn't seem to be a bad problem and build up too much.
Does temperature have anything to do with the development of bee colonies? Thank you
Yes. Colonies will expand quicker in warmer weather because they can keep more brood warm.
Will honey bees thrive on the pollen from Pine trees? This source of pollen is available by the pound for the taking and would greatly reduce my expenses in feeding. Thanks for another great video!
Pine pollen is of poor quality and the bees would need other pollen to go with it to avoid eventual malnutrition.
Enjoyed watching you all work the hives Bob. Up here in Ohio we got snow this weekend so our season is still on hold.
An early season has its pros and cons. Sometimes I wish we could keep doing winter projects.
Hi and greetings from New Zealand. Bob, I love your videos, I am going into my second year as a beekeeper and have used the double screen boards this winter with good success. My question is; do the glass jars cause a fire risk in dry conditions, I guess I could put an empty deep over them?
Greetings and thank you.
Hi Bob, enjoyed the video. I was curious what the temperature was when you did this? I want to make a taranov split which also leaves brood exposed for a short while and I am concerned about the brood getting too cold. Thanks, Gary
Hi Gary. We work bees down to the mid forty's f. It's not ideal but the key is to not leave the brood exposed very long. I like to explain it like this. You could walk to the mail box in front of your house and back in a tee shirt when it's ten degrees outside. You wouldn't like it but you would be OK once you get back inside. You just couldn't stay out very long.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks for the information. I did not know you could expose the brood that long below 65. Hopefully I will do my split tomorrow.
Sir can u make a split with only one frame of brood? Or is it to small?
Yes, we do it a lot but make sure they have at least one more frame of bees. It wouldn't be a good choice if they are raising their own queen though. Small units like that do best if they are given a queen cell or mated queen.
thanks for sharing this Bob. I use your method of this for swarm control and splitting. thanks for sharing your knowledge sir. hope to see yall soon.
March 28th and we haven’t even opened our hives yet. Ugh
Thanks Bob,very helpful! Do you have to worry about water in the bottoms of the hives on the pallets that are rear tilted?
We have 5/8 inch drain holes in each rear corner.
@@bobbinnie9872 thank you sir! Screened?
@@jtlearn1 Not screened. 5/8 is the perfect size.
With the price and availability of HDO(I can not find any in Kansas City),are you still making your double screen boards with HDO? If not, what’s your next best material?
We are still making our double screen boards with 5/8 HDO but it is costing a lot more than it used too. We could make them out of any type of plywood and then dip them in wax and if we can't get HDO in the future we may do that.
Bob, with all the places you have bees, I just curious how you keep people from stealing them??
I know it could happen but so far I've been lucky. Most of my yards are on secure locations on private property so that helps.
Beautiful video, thank you for sharing your knowledge. One question: if you harvest honey from the first box/ super where you allowed them to move up temporarily, is it ok to harvest from that comb? You don’t worry about residue from cocoons and brood?
Although it won't be ideal, as long as the combs are not old and dark the affect will be minimal. Good question.
Do you feed the bees after applying honey for days or not, thank you
If they have enough honey (stores) and drawn comb we may not feed them. If they need it, the two gallon bucket will hopefully be all they will get to make it to the early nectar flows.
Hey Mr. Binnie i love your videos they provide me with endless knowledge and as a beginner beekeeper hoping to go commercial one day the help is priceless. I have one question and I'm sure you must have answered it before but I haven't found it in any of your videos so far. what is the nozzle and pump system you use for the syrup tank? I hope you can find time in your busy life to answer this and if not thats fine as well. I will just keep watching with the same attention and respect as always. have a great day and keep on learning us these good facts :)
Hi Ethan. Our system can be seen in "Feeding Bees Part 4 - Our Syrup Pump and Truck Setup" th-cam.com/video/LA7mMu_AuXk/w-d-xo.html.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you very much sir!