Hey Adam, TH-cam is so vast and yet the same people gravitate to the same channels. I’ve been subscribed you for a couple of years or more now and have gone down the Home Automation route which has led me to Sonoffs and more. If you want to look into Sonoffs more, some of the older videos by Dr Zzs are worth watching for sure. You may even get tempted to install Tasmota eventually! Keep up the great work.
Thank you Adam I am very happy because my is just in it box and I was thinking of how to set it up. You have really challenged me and I am very greatful.
Great review, I have just bought one of these to open and close my garage doors and lights. So glad you went into the time delay part of the button functions.
similar setups i have 6 ch RF relay ( not a fancy sonoff or wifi one ) controlling floodlights, blluetooth amp with external speakers, internal shedlumination, and 3 channels ready for lighting around the garden was about a fiver from ebay and works really well
In AP mode they usually consume more power. Try to measure the power after you have paired it with the EWeLink app. Also EWeLink has an option to disable the status leds, which can save a few mW
Nice unit, Not sure 2.5watt is really a problem. You could desolder the relays and replace them with SSR's which will really help with the drain when all relays are on.
All switching items have both an AC and DC switching rating, no matter whether it's published or certified for that rating or not - despite what many will tell you. Rule of thumb: Anything rated for 230 volts AC will handle DC to the same currents at 12 volts. Although I would recommend caution here at the upper end of the current rating. Once you up the voltage to 24 volts DC you have to be more conservative. 30-50% of the 230 volt AC current rating is sensible. With anything above 24 volts DC it's wise to make sure the component *does* have the DC rating you require.
What would be the main issue/s using that relay set for DC when they’re rated for AC? I know there are issues with switches arcing (when using AC switches for DC) but is that something to be concerned about with these Sonoff relay sets as well?
Hey Adam. Forgive me for my ignorance and simple questions; however, I cannot find anyone to answer my question. Noob DIYer, but I digress. I got one of these bad boys to control my simple low voltage landscape lighting. If all lights were on, it’s a max load just shy of 100 watts. Is it possible to attach a small 12v DC 120 watt transformer to the DC input without anything blowing up? Max load for DC says 30V/10A. I thought I was right, but now I don’t know. Hopefully you can help me out.
Chris hey buddy. No, it’s because of customisability and I’m running home assisstant as my home server. I’ve custom made pcbs using wemos mini all based on same chipmset esp8266 etc. I hate having multiple apps for different things. I’m also planning on having an extension done and no light switches. It’s all going to be smart so. Also have sensosrs round the house to feed info into the system and using automations etc. Thus using tasmota i have more control.
One thing I'm confused about. You have 24v in from your batteries, and it converts it to 12v out for your lights, or do you have a buck converter between the batteries and the Sonoff reducing the voltage to 12v?
Gregory Germain IIRC Adam’s battery setup is 12V. The Sonoff does not convert the voltage. It is taking the ~12VDC feed from the battery and via the relay switches sending the same out to the loads.
Sonoff used to have a dimmer LED system, but it has been retired. This device as is wouldn't be able to dim lights as the relays aren't fast enough for PWM and the software doesn't support it.
I would like to control the Sonoff 4CH Pro R2 using a RF 433MHZ modulo with a Arduino. Does anyone know how to? Could you make a video about it? Thanks.
Hi Polloboh - the other lines are NOT dealt with in this box. You only switch the 4 'LIVE' (or DC) wires. First let me say that you can power this Sonoff unit with either a DC 5 to 12V Power supply OR with AC mains (through the mains inlet marked ('N/L') to the right of the DC Power socket). I'm not too sure if it will accept both. This would be cool in the event of a MAINS power failure. If you're using the Sonoff to switch AC mains - then you'll need to carry any Neutral and Earth lines outside the unit. You feed 4 Live wires from your mains supply into the 4 'Common' (COM) inputs on the unit and then follow up with wiring 4 single Live Wires from the 'NO' ('Normally Open') LIVE connection to each one of your 4 devices you wish to control. The devices's 'Neutral' and 'Earth' Lines go from your mains supply to each of your four devices. They are not connected in anyway to the Sonoff (other than the single Neutral line for the Sonoff AC power supply if you use this). When you turn the relay on - with your phone app (or Sonoff 'R' buttons), the unit simple connects the 'COM' wire to the particular 'NO' ('Normally Open') wire. The standard practice when switching AC is to switch LIVE wires only. Do not use it to switch Neutral lines. There is another version of this box which can be used to switch AC mains only and is probably in a format you will be more happy with - Search for 'Docooler Sonoff R2' on Amazon. Note - it appears that one version of this 'Docooler' version only supports interlocking mode!
I wouldn't remove my old led lights. They don't cost much to replace. Get a different brand of led light that will last longer. I'm sure not all brands are equal when it comes to quality.
@@jonesrichardmr For the same reasons that Adam built a diyBMS instead of buying a WatchMon4 or other off-the-shelf solution. We get the functionality we want for a much lower cost, can sometimes go beyond the manufacturers available functions, and learn in the process. With Tasmota, Adam could add a PIR sensor to the ESP to turn on a relay as soon movement is detected in the shed. I have Sonoff Touch switches all around my house running Tasmota firmware that connects to an on premise MQTT and Home Assistant server. It's faster than any other solution on the market that has to talk to the cloud and will continue to work even if I lose Internet connectivity. It's not for everybody, but Sonoff makes most of their products relatively easy to flash with new firmware.
@@JonathanWellskcender There are other Chinese units with similar functionality and price, working through the SmartLife app that work instanteneously and flawlessly without the need to maintain an in-home server. The hard way isn't impressive, its inefficient. Time is money, friend.
@@jonesrichardmr I've used SmartLife/Tuya devices before. They also talk to the cloud and aren't instantaneous depending on their server load and your own Internet connection speed. When your Internet dies, the ability to control the SmartLife devices from your phone or any automations you have with IFTTT or other external service also stops. Also, what happens when the Chinese company stops the SmartLife service? I've previously used SmartLife/Tuya devices, but found that when my wife can't do something that she has become accustomed to because we rely on an external service, it costs me more time and hassle. Since changing over to Tasmota, everything is faster and more consistent. I ended up giving the SmartLife devices to my sister in favor of Sonoff switches. Even without these devices, I'd still run an on-premise server for Plex, HASS, Pi-Hole, and other services. As I said, it's not for everyone, but Sonoff definitely isn't terrible for the price.
Hey Adam, TH-cam is so vast and yet the same people gravitate to the same channels. I’ve been subscribed you for a couple of years or more now and have gone down the Home Automation route which has led me to Sonoffs and more.
If you want to look into Sonoffs more, some of the older videos by Dr Zzs are worth watching for sure. You may even get tempted to install Tasmota eventually!
Keep up the great work.
What a useful little device! Makes a nice addition to the shed.
Thank you Adam I am very happy because my is just in it box and I was thinking of how to set it up. You have really challenged me and I am very greatful.
Great review, I have just bought one of these to open and close my garage doors and lights. So glad you went into the time delay part of the button functions.
similar setups
i have 6 ch RF relay ( not a fancy sonoff or wifi one ) controlling floodlights, blluetooth amp with external speakers, internal shedlumination, and 3 channels ready for lighting around the garden
was about a fiver from ebay and works really well
Sounds great. Actually with that and a sonoff RF bridge you’d get pretty much the same level of functionality for a little less money I think. Cheers
Excellent project 👍
Great video. You probably already picked it up, but the case of the unit states a DC rating of 30V @ 10A.
Yes I have. Thanks for checking though :-)
In AP mode they usually consume more power. Try to measure the power after you have paired it with the EWeLink app. Also EWeLink has an option to disable the status leds, which can save a few mW
I have this piece, but if there is a problem, the Wi-Fi light turns on and off, what is the solution?
Can this DC input feed two 12v led lights, how do tou do wiring? I need to connect one light pew channel. Thanks
Hey Adam
The 24v dual ac DC input makes it pro.
Good video
Thanks for clarification.
And the 433 Mhz Remote - Control - Function
and the dry contacts that the non pro model doesn't have
Nice unit, Not sure 2.5watt is really a problem. You could desolder the relays and replace them with SSR's which will really help with the drain when all relays are on.
Neat idea - might look into that. Thanks.
All switching items have both an AC and DC switching rating, no matter whether it's published or certified for that rating or not - despite what many will tell you. Rule of thumb: Anything rated for 230 volts AC will handle DC to the same currents at 12 volts. Although I would recommend caution here at the upper end of the current rating. Once you up the voltage to 24 volts DC you have to be more conservative. 30-50% of the 230 volt AC current rating is sensible. With anything above 24 volts DC it's wise to make sure the component *does* have the DC rating you require.
What would be the main issue/s using that relay set for DC when they’re rated for AC?
I know there are issues with switches arcing (when using AC switches for DC) but is that something to be concerned about with these Sonoff relay sets as well?
I made a similar thing like this with 4 relays and a node mcu
Hey Adam. Forgive me for my ignorance and simple questions; however, I cannot find anyone to answer my question. Noob DIYer, but I digress. I got one of these bad boys to control my simple low voltage landscape lighting. If all lights were on, it’s a max load just shy of 100 watts. Is it possible to attach a small 12v DC 120 watt transformer to the DC input without anything blowing up? Max load for DC says 30V/10A. I thought I was right, but now I don’t know. Hopefully you can help me out.
Hello Adam. Please inform me where is AC 5-24V socket pole +. In center or on the ring
Sorry. DC 5-24V socket
Yes, center pin is always positive.
I always custom flash tasmota on my sonoffs. Don’t rely on the cloud after that point. Can off net
is this because you don't trust the OEM firmware on the sonoff?
Chris hey buddy. No, it’s because of customisability and I’m running home assisstant as my home server. I’ve custom made pcbs using wemos mini all based on same chipmset esp8266 etc.
I hate having multiple apps for different things. I’m also planning on having an extension done and no light switches. It’s all going to be smart so. Also have sensosrs round the house to feed info into the system and using automations etc. Thus using tasmota i have more control.
Is it possible to connect both an MT50 and wifi box to the tracer A using a network splitter?
I don't think it would work tbh
good vid well explained
One thing I'm confused about. You have 24v in from your batteries, and it converts it to 12v out for your lights, or do you have a buck converter between the batteries and the Sonoff reducing the voltage to 12v?
Gregory Germain IIRC Adam’s battery setup is 12V.
The Sonoff does not convert the voltage. It is taking the ~12VDC feed from the battery and via the relay switches sending the same out to the loads.
Hi Adam, thanks for the review. Is internet connection needed to operate this device or just LAN wifi? Thanks.
LAN works but I’m not sure how you would update the firmware from what it’s shipped with.
Does it remember RF pairings after power outage?
Yes it does.
Can all 4 be used at the same time?
Yes they can. All individually controlled and can all be on or off at the same time.
@@AdamWelchUK do the ports accept both AC and DC? Thanks for your reply.
@@bmc9504 I think they do
Anybody know what the polarity for the 12v dc power in connection is? cant see it in the manual anywhere!!!
If standard, the inner pin is positive.
I bought a Sonoff 4Ch, but it doesn't come with a remote :(
Great explanation :)
Can you can you dim the lights with the Sonoff ?
Sonoff used to have a dimmer LED system, but it has been retired. This device as is wouldn't be able to dim lights as the relays aren't fast enough for PWM and the software doesn't support it.
I would like to control the Sonoff 4CH Pro R2 using a RF 433MHZ modulo with a Arduino.
Does anyone know how to? Could you make a video about it?
Thanks.
You can learn 433mhz codes to this device by pressing the channel (R1,R2,R3 or R4) button twice. The light will turn green if the signal is learned.
@@leonvollebregt639 But can you learn a generic 433MHz controller or only the Sonoff controller?
I'm using an remote from some rf sockets that I had laying around and it works fine. I think you can use any 433mhz rf remote.
Psst, the DC rating is printed on the front of the device, lol
But it doesn't have a 30 amp inductor, so it can't possibly be in mppt!
I cannot understand where is neutral and where line... :(
Hi Polloboh - the other lines are NOT dealt with in this box. You only switch the 4 'LIVE' (or DC) wires.
First let me say that you can power this Sonoff unit with either a DC 5 to 12V Power supply OR with
AC mains (through the mains inlet marked ('N/L') to the right of the DC Power socket). I'm not too sure if it will accept both. This would be cool in the event of a MAINS power failure.
If you're using the Sonoff to switch AC mains - then you'll need to carry any Neutral and Earth lines outside the unit.
You feed 4 Live wires from your mains supply into the 4 'Common' (COM) inputs on the unit and then follow up with wiring 4 single Live Wires from the 'NO' ('Normally Open') LIVE connection to each one of your 4 devices you wish to control. The devices's 'Neutral' and 'Earth' Lines go from your mains supply to each of your four devices. They are not connected in anyway to the Sonoff (other than the single Neutral line for the Sonoff AC power supply if you use this).
When you turn the relay on - with your phone app (or Sonoff 'R' buttons), the unit simple connects the 'COM' wire to the particular 'NO' ('Normally Open') wire.
The standard practice when switching AC is to switch LIVE wires only. Do not use it to switch Neutral lines.
There is another version of this box which can be used to switch AC mains only and is probably in a format you will be more happy with - Search for 'Docooler Sonoff R2' on Amazon. Note - it appears that one version of this 'Docooler' version only supports interlocking mode!
I wouldn't remove my old led lights. They don't cost much to replace. Get a different brand of led light that will last longer. I'm sure not all brands are equal when it comes to quality.
I think IWelink should be pronounced as Ewe-Link. 🤣
Sonoff products are terrible, extremely slow and intermittent. Save yourself the hassle and ditch it for something more reliable.
Once flashed with Tasmota or a different firmware so they don't use the sonoff cloud/app, they are much faster.
@@JonathanWellskcender That's not a complete product though...why not just buy something that works first time?
@@jonesrichardmr For the same reasons that Adam built a diyBMS instead of buying a WatchMon4 or other off-the-shelf solution. We get the functionality we want for a much lower cost, can sometimes go beyond the manufacturers available functions, and learn in the process. With Tasmota, Adam could add a PIR sensor to the ESP to turn on a relay as soon movement is detected in the shed.
I have Sonoff Touch switches all around my house running Tasmota firmware that connects to an on premise MQTT and Home Assistant server. It's faster than any other solution on the market that has to talk to the cloud and will continue to work even if I lose Internet connectivity. It's not for everybody, but Sonoff makes most of their products relatively easy to flash with new firmware.
@@JonathanWellskcender There are other Chinese units with similar functionality and price, working through the SmartLife app that work instanteneously and flawlessly without the need to maintain an in-home server.
The hard way isn't impressive, its inefficient. Time is money, friend.
@@jonesrichardmr I've used SmartLife/Tuya devices before. They also talk to the cloud and aren't instantaneous depending on their server load and your own Internet connection speed.
When your Internet dies, the ability to control the SmartLife devices from your phone or any automations you have with IFTTT or other external service also stops. Also, what happens when the Chinese company stops the SmartLife service? I've previously used SmartLife/Tuya devices, but found that when my wife can't do something that she has become accustomed to because we rely on an external service, it costs me more time and hassle. Since changing over to Tasmota, everything is faster and more consistent. I ended up giving the SmartLife devices to my sister in favor of Sonoff switches.
Even without these devices, I'd still run an on-premise server for Plex, HASS, Pi-Hole, and other services. As I said, it's not for everyone, but Sonoff definitely isn't terrible for the price.