I took the carb off and tried to spray everwhere I found an orifice. Putting that thing back on is a big deal trying to jugle about five parts while getting those two long mounting bolts through all of the gaskets and other parts.Anyway I came up with the same problem again. I'll probllay attack it again once more and then maybe another carb. I took the carb off again and did a better cleaning job this time. Works like a champ! Thanks
Most important thing I see here, besides a well documented video, is that you recommend setting bolts and nuts back where they came from as you go along... best advice ever! Did that with simultaneous rebuild of 2 (two) 6L diesel engines.. keeping the bolts and nuts where they came from ended up with 0, zero, nada, "spare parts" - every nut,bolt,washer, stud and clamp went back to where it came from!
@wrxninja01 ... Yes put your hand/mouth around the open fuel fill spout and blow to pressurize the fuel tank. This forces fuel through the the fuel pump/lines. You can also attempt to cycle the pump by putting your mouth on the 3rd fuel pump line going to the engine block. You need to blow and then suck repeatedly mimicking the pulsing the engine does.
@pimpmyhonda You are correct. It is called an emulsion tube or main well tube. The Venture pulls fuel from this tube. The tube emulsifies the fuel in the main well and helps to atomize the fuel and leans out the mixture at higher engine rpms. The area I am working on at 7:20 is the point where the air bleed and idle circuit meet. This mixes air and fuel to help atomize it. I have rebuilt close to 300 carbs and out of those I have only encountered 1 that I could not clean and needed replacement.
Thank you so much! If the shop didn't close early yesterday, I would have paid them at least $80. So, I had the weekend to tinker. Including the trip to get carb cleaner, I had my mower running in about an hour and a half. Great Video! Very clear and best of all it saved me MONEY! God bless you!
Thanks for the great video! My snow blower carb main jet was gunked up after 2 years of no use. I was almost ready to bring it to a professional and pay. Your video helped me fix it for free. PROS: Showed me exactly what I needed to do to fix my carb. CONS: Learned about this video 2 days after the snow storm :(
Did the carb clean today going by your vid. Engine on push mower used at public parks. Would not run at all. After clean up, runs like new. Big thanks. Brownie points from my super.
Thanks for the videos! This just saved me the price of a new carb (which was the only fix I found people recommending in most internet forums). For the cost of a can of carb cleaner, I'm all set. Mine had the same passage blocked as yours did. A little 90 degree spigot, some copper wire, and it started on the first pull!
Thank you for this video. It really has helped me with my GC190 carburetor overhaul. Also, I want to thank you for the expert and limited dialogue. You kept the camera on what you were doing, not on you talking. I learned a lot.
Well, I was within minutes of tossing the entire motor and pw in the garbage dumpster after taking the carb apart 4-5 times trying to figure out what was wrong when I decided to replace the spark plug. When my skills were less, I always changed the plug hoping that would fix a motor problem but it was generally never plug related. This time it was, when the plug began to get hot, I would get that surge. Replaced the plug and it runs perfect. Incredibly frustrating but at least it is fix. Appreciate the help u provided.
I tried a rebuild a month or so ago and missed the screw in the middle (I'm used to having to rebuild crap tecumseh engines with fixed jets in the bottom screw bowl) - this video was extremely helpful! Thanks.
I bought a new pressure washer with a Honda GC 160 Engine. I started ok the first two times I used it, but then it would not start. I had a run hour meter on the engine. The engine had only run about one hour. When I installed the engine, I installed a gas filter. So, the engine hod only run one hour and had a gas filter. I have a tool to check the spark on a small engine. The engine was getting a spark. After choking the engine and pulling the cord 8 times I removed the spark plug and could not smell gasoline in the cylinder. I watched part 1 and part 2 of this video. Also noticed the trick about bending the tube on the carburetor cleaner to clean out a specific port. I took the new carburetor apart. The carburetor was very clean with no residue. I put a can under the carburetor when I sprayed it. The cleaner went in the can and I let parts soak in it. I put it back together. Now my engine starts 1/2 way through the first pull. Thanks so much for this wonderful detailed video. I used it to fix my engine. Very much appreciated. Thumbs Up.
Seems like you're doing practically nothign when you do this but man, as soon as I re-assembled it, it fired up on the first pull!!! Great video. Thank you so much!
Hey just wanted to give you a shout as I have just found this engine and was about to take it apart blind and now I can follow your step by step video on how to clean it. I now can go ahead with no doubt in my mind. thank you ;)
@wrxninja01 ... Yes you can test them. There a 3 lines going to the fuel pump: one pulls fuel and goes to the fuel tank, one pushed fuel and goes to the carb, and the final one goes to the side of the engine block (breather). The Breather pulses air and pumps a diaphragm in the fuel pump. This diaphragm can dry up or get a hole rendering it useless. CONTINUED
@xmodrock .....I wish it was that easy. A straight pipe will give better throttle response and a very very minimal hp increase. BUT it will make it loud so you "think" it has more power. A nice spark plug will just make sure it is running its best. If it is on a go kart; your best bet is to change the gear ratio with new sprockets.
If it will only run on choke you have a dirty carb and it needs to be cleaned. There are a ton of pumps that will fit this engine. Your best bet is to go to a pressure washer pump web site and look up the options.
@yogi129 I accidentally called it a Venturi Tube. It is an Emulsion tube.But non the less, if it doesn't come out: don't force it. 90% of the time it is clean and doesn't require removal. Good Luck.
@Leeboy2020...... Leaking gas out the clear drain tube to designate that you your drain isn't closed. Leaking gas around the bowl seal would designate a leaking bowl seal or a leaking needle/seat. It is very difficult to properly clean a carb and get everything back together properly without removing the carb completely .
SWEET, you're welcome. Dirty carbs is the #1 reason people throw a mower away. Now whenever any of your equipment fails to start you're good to go (I have the most common carbs on TH-cam). Thanks for watching and commenting. -Moe
@Leeboy2020 .... OK. I would just take a look at the needle. It could of had a small piece of debris dislodge and get stuck in there causing it to not seal completely. You will also notice my tip in part 2 at 5minutes in.
Water in the fuel will usually cause sporadic stops. Also the fuel cap could not be venting to allow fuel to drop into the carb (loosely install the cap to test).
Hello.. I have a gc160. My problem is I cannot seem to find a diagram of the carb with all the linkages correctly connected. Yes, I blew it. Didn't take a pic before hand for future reference. I am hoping my rebuild is good. Thanks a ton for the schooling. I imagined it might be really difficult. With your vid it wasn't. Still have to reinstall then start up. Your site is great. Lots of stuff for guys like me...LOL. I am a wanna be mechanic.
Unreal, I missed that part when watching. Heard idle screw and thought to myself, no need to mess with that. Didn't realize it was access point to idle jet. Will tackle soon, thanks so much. By the way, another excellent video.
@steel3rd is your float installed upside down or the needle not seated in the float groove? It is definitely a fuel delivery issue. If it is a gc series we can also test the fuel pump now. pull the rope and fuel should squirt out of the fuel line that connects to the carb.
Yep, works like a charm. The jet was clogged. When I took it out I looked through it to see how big the hole was, and after I cleaned it, the hole was significantly bigger. I knew then that the problem was probably there. Fires up like usual now. I'll try to remember to get rid of the gas in it next year before I store it.
If you pull the fuel line off the carb and pull over the engine a good amount of gas should squirt out in pulses. If that has been eliminated then you can loosen the carb bowl nut. If gas leaks out then the bowl has fuel and it isn't a fuel delivery problem. If the other 2 tests pass then it is a clogged main jet-emulsion tube.
@sixtyfiveford I took the carb off and tried to spray everwhere I found an orifice. Putting that thing back on is a big deal trying to jugle about five parts while getting those two long mounting bolts through all of the gaskets and other parts.Anyway I came up with the same problem again. I'll probllay attack it again once more and then maybe another carb.
@wrxninja01 ... Definitely Clogged. Remove the entire pump. You should be able to blow from the fuel inlet side to the fuel outlet side but not the other way. You can try spraying carb cleaner into to it do dissolve and goo. The Honda part # is 16700-ZL8-003 and can be had for $20 or so BUT you can find a universal one for around $10 online. OR you can raise the fuel tank above the carb and the carb will be gravity fed and no fuel pump is needed.
To test these you need to PRIME the lines first. With fuel in the tank: put your hand/mouth over the fuel tank fill and blow. It will force gasoline through the system and into the carb. With fuel in the carb the engine should run for at least 10 seconds. If the engine runs out of fuel and dies the pump is not pumping. The only other thing to check is that the 3rd hose/line going from the pump to the engine block doesn't have a hole in it. These pumps are not serviceable.
Thanks for posting this! It was extremely helpful and saved me $ doing it myself. Big piece of crap in the main jet was the culprit (only rain full-choke). Again, I appreciate you posting this.
These don't usually come with a petcock valve. Test the fuel pump: Pull the fuel line off the carb. Pull the engine over and fuel should intermittently spray if fuel pump is working It should spray a couple inches out. More than likely your carb is gummed up and needs a good cleaning.
Most of these engines will have a drain hose attached to the bottom of the carb and a flat head screw right next to it. Loosen the screw and the gas will drain out the hose.
Im sure glad i found this video....Before i attempt the rebuild, i myself have a little fuel up around the air cleaner. But, also, my crankcase filled up with gas some how. Any ideas on whats wrong before i tear it apart? Great Video
@sixtyfiveford Thanks! this is the same engine used in my Honda HS520 snowthrower, I had a problem with surging and fixed it with this video. clogged air bleed circuit.
Hi Sixtyfive, i pulled the carb apart as much as i could, and cleaned with carb cleaner. Went through half a can to be sure. I put it all back together. It fired up on the second pull. So, i thought it was fixed. Was doing some washing today, and afetr about 5 minutes, it started leaking gas out the clear plastic drip tube, and also it looked like it was leaking between the the 2 parts of the carb housing. ( right in the middle) then it just shut right off....waited, fired back up then died.?
I did remove the whole carb,( i dont think i pulled the main jet and venturi out) and followed the video, spraying everything i could. ( you make it look easy) It sure runs good, but then starts leaking and shuts off...Should i try and find a rebuild kit? Or just follow the video again?
@roymg .. Video Part 2of2 at 2:30 I clean the emulsion tube and main jet. Also at 5:58 in video 1of 2 I clean the passage. These would be my best guess at your symptoms.
can you elaborate on the hand/mouth priming? do you mean where you actually put fuel in the tank? blow through where the gas tank cap is? or should i blowing through one of the valves on the pump? thanks again for the help.
Yeah, sometimes those Emulsion Tubes get locked up tight. If they do this I just leave them. I have yet to have a carb not work properly when I couldn't get the emulsion tube out.
If it is fighting you; leave it. It is seldom plugged and 99% of the time your machine will run like new without removing it. If you keep prying at it and it gets to messed up you can destroy the entire carb. Be careful.
@michaelhjfoster .......... Have you ever has this particular engine running? Does it feel like it has compression? Did you try pouring a teaspoon of gas down the throat of the carb to see if it will fire?
The problem with this carb is you can't remove the air filter housing to access the carb! If you remove the long screws to remove the housing you've automatically loosened the carb. Very frustrating. And I presume the screws are too long to tighten the carb back up without the the housing. I'd like to see the carb parts moving and as you say to put some petrol in. Could you just put some in through the spark plug hole and quickly replace the carb? Because it the carb is blocked the petrol you're literally spoon-feeding might not get through. Thanks for the video! I have found insect cocoons inside the carb! The machine is hardly worn but has been sitting idle for some years. I found your vid looking for the order and orientation of of gaskets. Found that one basket had obviously slipped down on a previous reassembly (quite understandably seeing how awkward it is to juggle all the pieces!) and was stopping one of those round things (choke/whatever) from opening fully. Now going to watch part two! Thanks for uploading these!
My GCV 160 will run but only on choke. I've run into this symptom before on my power generator. I just removed the bottom bowl and sprayed up into the diptube. Not sure right now what kind of carb that was. But that cured the problem. On this GCV that didn't work so off with the carb. My question is before I break anything , is that air tube conected on the back of the filter frame as a slide on barb and it just slides off?
Hey man great vid. i used it to clean my carb. i still have a non running issue though. i unhooked the fuel pump on the carb side and i cycle the motor to find no gas comes through the hose (int the motor). Does this mean my fuel pump is bad? is there a way to verify the fuel pump is bad if so can i clean or fix the fuel pump? ( i did clean all the hose lines too). Any help would be appreciated. steve
Yes it went fine before I bought it brand new from Home Depot about 13 years ago use it very sparingly but 10 to fog the motor when it's going to be stored for a period of time and also run when she'll wiper fluid through the pub before storing it in it's always worked fine despite its age and the fact that it's an yeah expensive pump. The motor weekend showing these symptoms during the last two uses but the last time was by far the worst it was hard to keep it running. With the new gaskets arrive how install them have a new spark plug and see what happens. Hopefully it'll be fine but I'm not totally convinced. Well let me know how turns out that again for help it's been appreciated
Thank you for such a quick reply. Where is the idle jet? I cleaned the main jet and the slender tube it holds in there, maybe called Venturi tube? But didn't see idle jet. Thx again.
Nice detailed video, very helpful. I have the same engine & now when I turn it on it revs up like crazy. What causes it to rev so much? I’ve checked the throttle cable and it seems like it’s on there right.
Great video sixtyfiveford. But I there's one connection that's not shown on either part 1 or 2 of this video. Where does the clear vinyl tube connected to the float chamber at the bottom of the carb connect to the engine? I didn't see it when I disconnected it from my engine and there's no obvious place to connect it? It doesn't seem like something that should just be left hanging. Please help.
Scott Williams It is just a drain and not on all models. It hangs down and prevents the event of fuel splashing if you use the drain. You can tuck it anywhere.
Ya i tried flipping it over and unscrewing it lightly but it's stuck wont come out it just keeps turning it's already out but doesn't fall out any ideas ? I learned so much watching your videos thanks
Reinsert it and just spray carb cleaner up through it. Other than the main hole that you can see it is rare for anything else up in there to get clogged. If it sprays nicely up into the throat of the carb you will be fine.
Will the GCV carb fit on the GC160 engine? The reason I'm asking is because I cannot find a carb for the GC160 that will adapt to natural gas but I can find plenty of the GVC 160 carbs that convert to natural gas.
You helped me with a surge problem on my honda eu2000 now this Honda 160 5hp motor attached to excel xr2500 pressure washer is surging and can surge so bad it stalls. Gen surged on eco mode but this motor only runs one speed, wide open so not a low speed jet. I can see the governor and throttle swing back and forth as motor surges. Tried cleaning carb, maybe I wasn't thorough enough. Any idea what area of the carb is causing problem so I can focus more specifically on it? Thank you.
Idle jet. Even though the motor doesn't idle it uses this jet when the engine is under low to mid load and the butterfly is partially closed. The governor swinging back and forth shows that it is working exactly as it should to try and keep the engine from stalling, but the carb can't deliver the proper fuel/air ratio.
It is actually one of my favorite tools and I have looked into getting another just in case I lost it. It came in the first socket set I bought 17yrs ago which was a Crewline (Checker Auto Parts). I did an extensive search and found that Craftsman makes one Sears Item# 00943393000 Model# 43393.
After clean the carb as per your video, the engine starts right up. Runs a minute or two under load or off load of the pressure cleaner, then stops dead. Starts back up nicely then again stops dead again. Could it be old fuel?
Hey what's up update on my gc 190 I found out why my machine was not working right I turned it on and pulled the trigger and manually pulled the governor back and it started working fine so it was over revving because the governor was too high .i was thinking it was the carburator ... Now I shall watch your other video on adjusting governor........I noticed you have a video on how to adjust the governor on a honda lawnmower are they the same as the pressure washer governors ? thanks a lot you helped save me money and I learned a lot from your videos thanks again :)
Yeah, watch the video and it will give you a good idea how it works. Essentially the harder that spring pulls on the rod the higher maintained RPM. Some machines with adjustable throttle have a adjustment screw that when screwed in will pull harder on that spring.
I have a GC 160. I cleaned my carburetor, like in you video. Now the engine run but only runs with the choke pulled out. My internet search reveals many who advocate just replacing the carburetor, that it's cheaper to replace than to troubleshoot. One mechanic suggests that I adjust the mixture and throttle screws. Any thoughts?
Only Running on Choke: This signifies that the main jet passage is clogged. At 4:16 in the video I am removing the main jet. At 4:55 I am cleaning the Emulsion/Venturi tube. At 5:45 I am cleaning the air bleed for the main jet. These are the areas that are plugged in your carb. As far as carbs go these on this engine are pretty cheap (around $30 online for a new one). This carb doesn't have an adjustable Main Jet so it can't be adjusted only cleaned.
I have cleaned the carb...but it runs rough after I completed the cleaning and reassembled...could it be possible that I need to adjust something like the idle screw on this thing to smooth it out...It wouldn't run at all before and it seems that little brass tube with the 12 tiny holes was totally blocked..at least 10 of 12. Also, would like to know what a replacement part number for this carburetor would be. My engine is identical to the one you show in the video. I looked yesterday and saw a number on the top of the aluminum housing on the carburetor that said 618DNC25. I would like to have a spare if affordable if I have to take it apart again...also the gaskets although I understand the gaskets come with a lot of the new replacements. Appreciate any assistance you can offer...thanks so much from all us novices...
If you have the GC160 your carb should be the 16100-Z0J-013 which can be had for around $30. If it revs up and down then the idle circuit it clogged If it won't run without the the choke the main jet is clogged.
I bought the carburetor off of eBay for $30 and a little shipping, put it on and the second pull the engine started for the first time in 3+ years and has run like a top since...I will NEVER let it sit for very long again...will burn ONLY NON-ethanol gas and I am sure it will last a long time...thanks for the part no. info. I only wish I were as good as you are at cleaning my old carb...would have saved a lot of time and cost of carb cleaner...my bad. Thanks again for your help...
I took the carb off and tried to spray everwhere I found an orifice. Putting that thing back on is a big deal trying to jugle about five parts while getting those two long mounting bolts through all of the gaskets and other parts.Anyway I came up with the same problem again. I'll probllay attack it again once more and then maybe another carb.
I took the carb off again and did a better cleaning job this time. Works like a champ!
Thanks
Most important thing I see here, besides a well documented video, is that you recommend setting bolts and nuts back where they came from as you go along... best advice ever! Did that with simultaneous rebuild of 2 (two) 6L diesel engines.. keeping the bolts and nuts where they came from ended up with 0, zero, nada, "spare parts" - every nut,bolt,washer, stud and clamp went back to where it came from!
@wrxninja01 ... Yes put your hand/mouth around the open fuel fill spout and blow to pressurize the fuel tank. This forces fuel through the the fuel pump/lines. You can also attempt to cycle the pump by putting your mouth on the 3rd fuel pump line going to the engine block. You need to blow and then suck repeatedly mimicking the pulsing the engine does.
@pimpmyhonda You are correct. It is called an emulsion tube or main well tube. The Venture pulls fuel from this tube. The tube emulsifies the fuel in the main well and helps to atomize the fuel and leans out the mixture at higher engine rpms. The area I am working on at 7:20 is the point where the air bleed and idle circuit meet. This mixes air and fuel to help atomize it. I have rebuilt close to 300 carbs and out of those I have only encountered 1 that I could not clean and needed replacement.
Thank you so much! If the shop didn't close early yesterday, I would have paid them at least $80. So, I had the weekend to tinker. Including the trip to get carb cleaner, I had my mower running in about an hour and a half. Great Video! Very clear and best of all it saved me MONEY! God bless you!
Thanks for the great video! My snow blower carb main jet was gunked up after 2 years of no use. I was almost ready to bring it to a professional and pay. Your video helped me fix it for free.
PROS: Showed me exactly what I needed to do to fix my carb.
CONS: Learned about this video 2 days after the snow storm :(
Did the carb clean today going by your vid. Engine on push mower used at public parks. Would not run at all. After clean up, runs like new. Big thanks. Brownie points from my super.
Thanks for the videos! This just saved me the price of a new carb (which was the only fix I found people recommending in most internet forums).
For the cost of a can of carb cleaner, I'm all set. Mine had the same passage blocked as yours did. A little 90 degree spigot, some copper wire, and it started on the first pull!
Thank you for this video. It really has helped me with my GC190 carburetor overhaul. Also, I want to thank you for the expert and limited dialogue. You kept the camera on what you were doing, not on you talking. I learned a lot.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Well, I was within minutes of tossing the entire motor and pw in the garbage dumpster after taking the carb apart 4-5 times trying to figure out what was wrong when I decided to replace the spark plug. When my skills were less, I always changed the plug hoping that would fix a motor problem but it was generally never plug related. This time it was, when the plug began to get hot, I would get that surge. Replaced the plug and it runs perfect. Incredibly frustrating but at least it is fix. Appreciate the help u provided.
I've had this happen only a few times with the plug(even with a new plug). It's rare. I'm glad this was sorted out.
I tried a rebuild a month or so ago and missed the screw in the middle (I'm used to having to rebuild crap tecumseh engines with fixed jets in the bottom screw bowl) - this video was extremely helpful! Thanks.
I bought a new pressure washer with a Honda GC 160 Engine. I started ok the first two times I used it, but then it would not start. I had a run hour meter on the engine. The engine had only run about one hour. When I installed the engine, I installed a gas filter. So, the engine hod only run one hour and had a gas filter. I have a tool to check the spark on a small engine. The engine was getting a spark. After choking the engine and pulling the cord 8 times I removed the spark plug and could not smell gasoline in the cylinder. I watched part 1 and part 2 of this video. Also noticed the trick about bending the tube on the carburetor cleaner to clean out a specific port. I took the new carburetor apart. The carburetor was very clean with no residue. I put a can under the carburetor when I sprayed it. The cleaner went in the can and I let parts soak in it. I put it back together. Now my engine starts 1/2 way through the first pull. Thanks so much for this wonderful detailed video. I used it to fix my engine. Very much appreciated. Thumbs Up.
+Michael Eisenbise Great work.. I'm glad the video helped.
ONE PULL! Awesome. I always like to here from the people this video has helped.
Seems like you're doing practically nothign when you do this but man, as soon as I re-assembled it, it fired up on the first pull!!!
Great video. Thank you so much!
Hey just wanted to give you a shout as I have just found this engine and was about to take it apart blind and now I can follow your step by step video on how to clean it.
I now can go ahead with no doubt in my mind.
thank you ;)
+Ross Mcnab Thanks, I'm glad it was useful.
@wrxninja01 ... Yes you can test them. There a 3 lines going to the fuel pump: one pulls fuel and goes to the fuel tank, one pushed fuel and goes to the carb, and the final one goes to the side of the engine block (breather). The Breather pulses air and pumps a diaphragm in the fuel pump. This diaphragm can dry up or get a hole rendering it useless. CONTINUED
@xmodrock .....I wish it was that easy. A straight pipe will give better throttle response and a very very minimal hp increase. BUT it will make it loud so you "think" it has more power. A nice spark plug will just make sure it is running its best. If it is on a go kart; your best bet is to change the gear ratio with new sprockets.
I have been looking for a vid on how to get these things clean, i come across these
a lot, i'm gonna try this tomorrow, thanks man.
If it will only run on choke you have a dirty carb and it needs to be cleaned. There are a ton of pumps that will fit this engine. Your best bet is to go to a pressure washer pump web site and look up the options.
Awesome.... I'm glad you got it going. Thanks for watching!
@yogi129 I accidentally called it a Venturi Tube. It is an Emulsion tube.But non the less, if it doesn't come out: don't force it. 90% of the time it is clean and doesn't require removal. Good Luck.
@Leeboy2020 ...... The leaking out of the clear tube should just require the screw right next to it be tightened. Good Luck.
@Leeboy2020...... Leaking gas out the clear drain tube to designate that you your drain isn't closed. Leaking gas around the bowl seal would designate a leaking bowl seal or a leaking needle/seat. It is very difficult to properly clean a carb and get everything back together properly without removing the carb completely .
SWEET, you're welcome. Dirty carbs is the #1 reason people throw a mower away. Now whenever any of your equipment fails to start you're good to go (I have the most common carbs on TH-cam). Thanks for watching and commenting. -Moe
@Leeboy2020 .... OK. I would just take a look at the needle. It could of had a small piece of debris dislodge and get stuck in there causing it to not seal completely. You will also notice my tip in part 2 at 5minutes in.
I am glad you made out well. Thanks for watching.
Water in the fuel will usually cause sporadic stops. Also the fuel cap could not be venting to allow fuel to drop into the carb (loosely install the cap to test).
Helped me tremendously in my replacement of the fuel pump and carb replacement on my gc160
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Hello..
I have a gc160. My problem is I cannot seem to find a diagram of the carb with all the linkages correctly connected. Yes, I blew it. Didn't take a pic before hand for future reference. I am hoping my rebuild is good. Thanks a ton for the schooling. I imagined it might be really difficult. With your vid it wasn't. Still have to reinstall then start up. Your site is great. Lots of stuff for guys like me...LOL. I am a wanna be mechanic.
@dc5000123 .........Thanks, I am glad you liked it.
Unreal, I missed that part when watching. Heard idle screw and thought to myself, no need to mess with that. Didn't realize it was access point to idle jet. Will tackle soon, thanks so much. By the way, another excellent video.
Let me know how it goes.
@steel3rd is your float installed upside down or the needle not seated in the float groove? It is definitely a fuel delivery issue. If it is a gc series we can also test the fuel pump now. pull the rope and fuel should squirt out of the fuel line that connects to the carb.
Yep, works like a charm. The jet was clogged. When I took it out I looked through it to see how big the hole was, and after I cleaned it, the hole was significantly bigger. I knew then that the problem was probably there. Fires up like usual now. I'll try to remember to get rid of the gas in it next year before I store it.
If you pull the fuel line off the carb and pull over the engine a good amount of gas should squirt out in pulses. If that has been eliminated then you can loosen the carb bowl nut. If gas leaks out then the bowl has fuel and it isn't a fuel delivery problem. If the other 2 tests pass then it is a clogged main jet-emulsion tube.
@sixtyfiveford
I took the carb off and tried to spray everwhere I found an orifice. Putting that thing back on is a big deal trying to jugle about five parts while getting those two long mounting bolts through all of the gaskets and other parts.Anyway I came up with the same problem again. I'll probllay attack it again once more and then maybe another carb.
@wrxninja01 ... Definitely Clogged. Remove the entire pump. You should be able to blow from the fuel inlet side to the fuel outlet side but not the other way. You can try spraying carb cleaner into to it do dissolve and goo. The Honda part # is 16700-ZL8-003 and can be had for $20 or so BUT you can find a universal one for around $10 online.
OR you can raise the fuel tank above the carb and the carb will be gravity fed and no fuel pump is needed.
To test these you need to PRIME the lines first. With fuel in the tank: put your hand/mouth over the fuel tank fill and blow. It will force gasoline through the system and into the carb. With fuel in the carb the engine should run for at least 10 seconds. If the engine runs out of fuel and dies the pump is not pumping. The only other thing to check is that the 3rd hose/line going from the pump to the engine block doesn't have a hole in it. These pumps are not serviceable.
excellent....got our gc160 powered pressure washer running with this video.
MrSnowshifter That's great... Glad it helped.
Oh my god. That screwdriver that you can put the ratchet onto is the best thing ever. Where can a get one? What brand is it?
With the carb off. hold the carb upside down without the bowl. The bottom of the float should sit virtually level with the body of the carb.
@roymg ..The air tube is just stuck on there with a tight fit. It will pull right off. At 1:49 in the video I pull it off.
Excellent. Followed to put my carb, etc back on Excell 2425 pressure washer!
Thanks!
Thanks for posting this! It was extremely helpful and saved me $ doing it myself. Big piece of crap in the main jet was the culprit (only rain full-choke). Again, I appreciate you posting this.
You're welcome. Glad it helped.
AWESOME... It doesn't take much to make these little thing run like crap or not at all.
Superbe vidéo , bob , elle est en Anglais , mais elle reste excellente et explicite , merci
My pressure washer runs again thanks a lot . It was easy thanks to your help.
You're welcome. Pros and cons list, Awesome. Never had a comment with that. Is your snow blower a single stage or a large 2 stage?
Just a tip.. If you drain the carb or run the machine completely dry your carb will virtually never gum up.
using this video i was able to get my log splitter running again, thanks much
These don't usually come with a petcock valve.
Test the fuel pump:
Pull the fuel line off the carb.
Pull the engine over and fuel should intermittently spray if fuel pump is working
It should spray a couple inches out.
More than likely your carb is gummed up and needs a good cleaning.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Most of these engines will have a drain hose attached to the bottom of the carb and a flat head screw right next to it. Loosen the screw and the gas will drain out the hose.
These videos were very helpful. Thank you!
Thanks for the comment. If you watch the video from the beginning you should be able to make out the linkage routing. Let me know how it goes.
Ok, thanks, i will try that test. I should have done that. Just got anxious to get this baby going!
Im sure glad i found this video....Before i attempt the rebuild, i myself have a little fuel up around the air cleaner. But, also, my crankcase filled up with gas some how. Any ideas on whats wrong before i tear it apart? Great Video
If the video helped Please THUMBS UP and or leave me a comment below.
Nice vid my friend, very helpful. Now let's see if the lawnmower starts tomorrow...
@sixtyfiveford Thanks! this is the same engine used in my Honda HS520 snowthrower, I had a problem with surging and fixed it with this video. clogged air bleed circuit.
Hi Sixtyfive, i pulled the carb apart as much as i could, and cleaned with carb cleaner. Went through half a can to be sure. I put it all back together. It fired up on the second pull. So, i thought it was fixed. Was doing some washing today, and afetr about 5 minutes, it started leaking gas out the clear plastic drip tube, and also it looked like it was leaking between the the 2 parts of the carb housing. ( right in the middle) then it just shut right off....waited, fired back up then died.?
Awesome. ill probably just order another pump. Thanks again for all the help.
I did remove the whole carb,( i dont think i pulled the main jet and venturi out) and followed the video, spraying everything i could. ( you make it look easy) It sure runs good, but then starts leaking and shuts off...Should i try and find a rebuild kit? Or just follow the video again?
@roymg .. Video Part 2of2 at 2:30 I clean the emulsion tube and main jet. Also at 5:58 in video 1of 2 I clean the passage. These would be my best guess at your symptoms.
can you elaborate on the hand/mouth priming? do you mean where you actually put fuel in the tank? blow through where the gas tank cap is? or should i blowing through one of the valves on the pump? thanks again for the help.
Yeah, sometimes those Emulsion Tubes get locked up tight. If they do this I just leave them. I have yet to have a carb not work properly when I couldn't get the emulsion tube out.
Nice video. Thanks for taking the time to do it and sharing it!
If it is fighting you; leave it. It is seldom plugged and 99% of the time your machine will run like new without removing it. If you keep prying at it and it gets to messed up you can destroy the entire carb. Be careful.
Thanks for the quick reply! I will try fresh gas and loosely install the cap to test.
Does that clear tube going from the carburator connect to anything? the lower portion on ours just hangs there.
You're Welcome. Let me know how it turns out.
@michaelhjfoster .......... Have you ever has this particular engine running? Does it feel like it has compression? Did you try pouring a teaspoon of gas down the throat of the carb to see if it will fire?
The problem with this carb is you can't remove the air filter housing to access the carb! If you remove the long screws to remove the housing you've automatically loosened the carb. Very frustrating. And I presume the screws are too long to tighten the carb back up without the the housing. I'd like to see the carb parts moving and as you say to put some petrol in. Could you just put some in through the spark plug hole and quickly replace the carb? Because it the carb is blocked the petrol you're literally spoon-feeding might not get through.
Thanks for the video! I have found insect cocoons inside the carb! The machine is hardly worn but has been sitting idle for some years. I found your vid looking for the order and orientation of of gaskets. Found that one basket had obviously slipped down on a previous reassembly (quite understandably seeing how awkward it is to juggle all the pieces!) and was stopping one of those round things (choke/whatever) from opening fully.
Now going to watch part two! Thanks for uploading these!
Were you able to test the fuel pump?
My GCV 160 will run but only on choke. I've run into this symptom before on my power generator. I just removed the bottom bowl and sprayed up into the diptube. Not sure right now what kind of carb that was. But that cured the problem. On this GCV that didn't work so off with the carb. My question is before I break anything , is that air tube conected on the back of the filter frame as a slide on barb and it just slides off?
@Leeboy2020 ... Leaking float needle/seat.
Hey man great vid. i used it to clean my carb. i still have a non running issue though. i unhooked the fuel pump on the carb side and i cycle the motor to find no gas comes through the hose (int the motor). Does this mean my fuel pump is bad? is there a way to verify the fuel pump is bad if so can i clean or fix the fuel pump?
( i did clean all the hose lines too). Any help would be appreciated.
steve
Yes it went fine before I bought it brand new from Home Depot about 13 years ago use it very sparingly but 10 to fog the motor when it's going to be stored for a period of time and also run when she'll wiper fluid through the pub before storing it in it's always worked fine despite its age and the fact that it's an yeah expensive pump. The motor weekend showing these symptoms during the last two uses but the last time was by far the worst it was hard to keep it running. With the new gaskets arrive how install them have a new spark plug and see what happens. Hopefully it'll be fine but I'm not totally convinced. Well let me know how turns out that again for help it's been appreciated
Thank you for such a quick reply. Where is the idle jet? I cleaned the main jet and the slender tube it holds in there, maybe called Venturi tube? But didn't see idle jet. Thx again.
7:00 in the video is when I start talking about the idle jet/passage.
Thanks, i got it out :), but now the inner tube is stuck (ventury tube) do you have any tips for getting it out?
Thanks for the video, I was able to get my pressure washer going again
Awesome, I'm glad it was helpful.
Thanks for the great vid. Just saved me some coin. She runs great now!
Nice detailed video, very helpful. I have the same engine & now when I turn it on it revs up like crazy. What causes it to rev so much? I’ve checked the throttle cable and it seems like it’s on there right.
Make sure the throttle butterfly on the top of the carb is able to move freely. More than likely one of your linkages is binding.
How did you make out?
Great video sixtyfiveford. But I there's one connection that's not shown on either part 1 or 2 of this video. Where does the clear vinyl tube connected to the float chamber at the bottom of the carb connect to the engine? I didn't see it when I disconnected it from my engine and there's no obvious place to connect it? It doesn't seem like something that should just be left hanging. Please help.
Scott Williams It is just a drain and not on all models. It hangs down and prevents the event of fuel splashing if you use the drain. You can tuck it anywhere.
@xmodrock ..Sorry but there is no easy way. The easiest and cheapest way is to buy a bigger engine.
Ya i tried flipping it over and unscrewing it lightly but it's stuck wont come out it just keeps turning it's already out but doesn't fall out any ideas ? I learned so much watching your videos thanks
Reinsert it and just spray carb cleaner up through it. Other than the main hole that you can see it is rare for anything else up in there to get clogged. If it sprays nicely up into the throat of the carb you will be fine.
Will the GCV carb fit on the GC160 engine? The reason I'm asking is because I cannot find a carb for the GC160 that will adapt to natural gas but I can find plenty of the GVC 160 carbs that convert to natural gas.
Does it die while it is still on choke?
@jspenco2 .... Let me know how it turns out.
Thanks, bro. I got a free pressure washer up and running.
You helped me with a surge problem on my honda eu2000 now this Honda 160 5hp motor attached to excel xr2500 pressure washer is surging and can surge so bad it stalls. Gen surged on eco mode but this motor only runs one speed, wide open so not a low speed jet. I can see the governor and throttle swing back and forth as motor surges. Tried cleaning carb, maybe I wasn't thorough enough. Any idea what area of the carb is causing problem so I can focus more specifically on it? Thank you.
Idle jet. Even though the motor doesn't idle it uses this jet when the engine is under low to mid load and the butterfly is partially closed. The governor swinging back and forth shows that it is working exactly as it should to try and keep the engine from stalling, but the carb can't deliver the proper fuel/air ratio.
@sixtyfiveford i was hoping you would say somthing like straight pipe or a nice spark plug
It is actually one of my favorite tools and I have looked into getting another just in case I lost it. It came in the first socket set I bought 17yrs ago which was a Crewline (Checker Auto Parts). I did an extensive search and found that Craftsman makes one Sears Item# 00943393000 Model# 43393.
Awesome video! Straight to the point with all the pertinent info to do a quick and efficient job!
@sixtyfiveford i suppose.. its still on a lawn mower... i was just hoping there was an easy way to make more power
After clean the carb as per your video, the engine starts right up. Runs a minute or two under load or off load of the pressure cleaner, then stops dead. Starts back up nicely then again stops dead again. Could it be old fuel?
Hey what's up update on my gc 190 I found out why my machine was not working right I turned it on and pulled the trigger and manually pulled the governor back and it started working fine so it was over revving because the governor was too high .i was thinking it was the carburator ... Now I shall watch your other video on adjusting governor........I noticed you have a video on how to adjust the governor on a honda lawnmower are they the same as the pressure washer governors ? thanks a lot you helped save me money and I learned a lot from your videos thanks again :)
Yeah, watch the video and it will give you a good idea how it works. Essentially the harder that spring pulls on the rod the higher maintained RPM. Some machines with adjustable throttle have a adjustment screw that when screwed in will pull harder on that spring.
Leave it and just spray up through it, there is no way to get it out. Most of the time your fine.
It's a 2-stage Troy-Bilt 26" snow blower with a Honda engine.
I have a GC 160. I cleaned my carburetor, like in you video. Now the engine run but only runs with the choke pulled out. My internet search reveals many who advocate just replacing the carburetor, that it's cheaper to replace than to troubleshoot. One mechanic suggests that I adjust the mixture and throttle screws. Any thoughts?
Only Running on Choke: This signifies that the main jet passage is clogged. At 4:16 in the video I am removing the main jet. At 4:55 I am cleaning the Emulsion/Venturi tube. At 5:45 I am cleaning the air bleed for the main jet. These are the areas that are plugged in your carb. As far as carbs go these on this engine are pretty cheap (around $30 online for a new one). This carb doesn't have an adjustable Main Jet so it can't be adjusted only cleaned.
I have cleaned the carb...but it runs rough after I completed the cleaning and reassembled...could it be possible that I need to adjust something like the idle screw on this thing to smooth it out...It wouldn't run at all before and it seems that little brass tube with the 12 tiny holes was totally blocked..at least 10 of 12. Also, would like to know what a replacement part number for this carburetor would be. My engine is identical to the one you show in the video. I looked yesterday and saw a number on the top of the aluminum housing on the carburetor that said 618DNC25. I would like to have a spare if affordable if I have to take it apart again...also the gaskets although I understand the gaskets come with a lot of the new replacements. Appreciate any assistance you can offer...thanks so much from all us novices...
If you have the GC160 your carb should be the 16100-Z0J-013 which can be had for around $30.
If it revs up and down then the idle circuit it clogged
If it won't run without the the choke the main jet is clogged.
I bought the carburetor off of eBay for $30 and a little shipping, put it on and the second pull the engine started for the first time in 3+ years and has run like a top since...I will NEVER let it sit for very long again...will burn ONLY NON-ethanol gas and I am sure it will last a long time...thanks for the part no. info. I only wish I were as good as you are at cleaning my old carb...would have saved a lot of time and cost of carb cleaner...my bad. Thanks again for your help...
Glad you got it back up and going.