Another reason you don’t want to use natural bristle with water base is that the water causes natural bristles to swell which causes large brush marks. This was a great video, thanks!
That sounds to be a thing only when we talk painting Walls. Because paints for warhammer are also water based, and in this case natural bristles are the best brushes without a doubt. Kolinsky sable brushes to be more exact.
Best way to clean a brush that you used in an oil based paint, is to add some thinner in a can, like an empty paint can. And let it sit in there for a while. 30-45 minute or so. Then take it by the handle and dip it up and down in the same thinner. Brush the bottom of the can back and forth lightly and after a few minutes your brush will be clean. You absolutely do not want to let the paint get up into the brush any more than a couple inches. Water on a brush that was used in oil based paint will ruin it. If you are cleaning a brush that you just used with latex paint. You let water pour down the bristles from the handle down to the tip of the bristles. Get the bulk of the paint off that way. Then under the running water start separating the bristles and let the water rinse into it. Over and over again. Do that a lot. Brush the bottom of the sink like with the oil based paint in the thinner can. You can take your fingers like make an OK 👌🏼 sign with them around the bristles and let the water lightly pour down through your fingers and into the bristles. That helps keep the shape of the brush and keeps the bristles from being rolled back and losing their spot in the brush. But you mainly have to have some patience with cleaning both kinds of paint out of the brushes. Dry them as well as you can by putting the handle of them in your palms and spinning it back and forth a few good times and put it back into the shuck that you took it out of when you bought it. Hope that helps. I’m sure a video by this guy will do a lot better explaining it than what I can. But you can trust me, cause I’m a painter lol
@@boonicholas1530 Thanks for the cleaning tips. I found that for latex paints, I remove as much paint from my brushes by squeezing the bristles between newspapers, brush any remaining paint on more newspapers, then washing under water. I use less water doing it this way and also take less time. And like you said, dry the brush by spinning them dry and I wrap the bristles in a paper towel to let them dry before I put my brushes back into the shuck the brushes came in. I take care of my paint brushes and haven't had to but a new one in years. Again, thanks.
MOST important, before you put a brush into paint, put in whatever you use to clean the brush, water or paint thinner, as appropriate. Let the liquid soak all the way up to the top of the brush. Shake off the excess. Don't bury the brush in the paint (2" as suggested) and the paint won't wick up to the base. Cleaning is a snap. I have 15+ year-old brushes that look like new.
I’ve been working with the same 4 Purdy 2 1/2” brushes for the better part of a decade. I pamper those things more than my dogs! Woe be to he who even _looks_ at my brushes, much less dares to touch them!
Same. Most of the brushes I currently have I’ve had for about 8 years now. I still need to go get a few more to save the life of the things ones I baby the most.
Excellent video. Have always been lost when looking at a wall of paint brushes and no one around to help. Appreciate your videos so much, an old dog can still learn new tricks. 👍👍👍
I've been a Purdy guy for 20 some years, in part as I've never found a reason to switch. They consistently lay down paint well and last a long time if cared for. Sounds like a good series, looking forward to the upcoming videos.
Great video and great series! As a diy person who has painted for years, I NEVER knew any of this and neither did the handymen who helped me over the years. Can’t wait to see what else I don’t know!
I hear you. I’ve almost always used Purdue brushes, but the only thing I knew was using natural bristle with oil paint. I’ll be paying closer attention from now on before I buy any more brushes.
My dad has been a painter for over 50 years, and has used the 3 inch Nylox Swan for everything for decades. It is the best brush on the market, for interior and exterior. That is painting in Houston Texas where it is extremely hot
This perfectly explained why the brush I was using to touch up large areas of a few shingles 2 weeks ago seemed to be skim coating instead of layering evenly. Now I know what to go buy.
Natalie from Maine. Thanks for this video. I do a lot of painting around the house.ive used Perdy for years ,take care of it and they last & last. Tried the less $$ common brand with my last project, it wasn't that worth the extra cost...well after a few strokes, went back and spend the extra couple of dollars .If you paint ,you know the difference between between a good brush and a cheaper brand brush and it shows in your work , Gosh I'm fussy.LOL.
I find these videos are so informative / educational. Thank you! I remember you let the other pro speak in the water heater video. I really liked that format. I'd suggest featuring Nick show and tell in the video too. I think it serves as a great incentive for them to do these videos since they'd be able to get their names out and generate more leads. Hope you get to 1M soon!
Even though I do painting around the house, this was an excellent explanation. I feel more confident now about picking a brush. Let people know that the better the brush the higher the cost. A video on cleaning a brush is going to be necessary. Great start!
It also depends on the paints your using. Some paints don't require a $30-$40 brush. I got by fine in my painting career with a $12-20 brush. These are in Canadian dollars of course. Also the top of the ferrule in Purdy brushes rust if you clean them with a wire brush under warm water as the ferrules tend to not hold up well to abrasions and the metal can corrode quite easily. I doubt that has changed much. The Purdy comb is useless imho and does not properly take all the paint off the brush. I gather the Purdy comb is primarily used to straighten the bristles but here's another pro-tip: All you need to do is make sure the bristles are wet and in a solid shape and let air dry it out over a day or two and you will not lose the shape. It also helps to have boxes of extra brushes on hand to get back to work quickly. If you need to use the brush you just cleaned right away go outside and hit the brush against your boot to kick out the water then use your hand to condition the bristles back in shape. With Purdy brushes its all hype and the fact that they are made in America which is the reason for those prices. I don't need an autograph on my brush either. I actually here stories online about their quality going downhill. I wouldn't mind buying Purdy brushes for hobby projects but for professional application they are costly and time is money.
Very helpful! I’ve logged a lot of painting hours in my day, and I’ve always been a big fan of Purdy brushes. Even so, I wasn’t familiar with all the synthetic options and what they’re each good for. The breakdown of all the different synthetic brush options was very informative. Thanks!
Great video. One topic I’d love see if explained is how to clean and maintain brushes. I was amazed when you said the painter had been using the same brushes for years.
I've been using Purdy brushes for 20 years and they have been the best I've used. I think you covered how brushes work very well. Next if you can show people how to use the brush to cut in the paint i think that will help people painting
@@TheHonestCarpenter a common, big misconception is that a “cut brush” is required to do cut ins. For the novice, that may be true but for seasoned pros we typically prefer our brushes without the angle so we can hold more paint on it per dip in the bucket which means longer brush strokes.
Awe, I just blew away my overly-long yet ever so good reply. Great video by the way, yet I have caveats. First, I'm a full-time handyman that does a lot of everything, including painting houses and refinishing fine furniture, busting boulders, demolition to construction. You I've watched periodically and have a huge admiration for your carpentry abilities and expertise, Painting (love it or hate it) I have too much experience with. From fine furniture building, repairs & refinishing, to exteriors, industrial patching to tarring foundations. I have several Wooster, Purdy, Simms and other brands of paint brushes. I've watched too many "How-To" videos from manufacturers of paint and painting implements and guys/women finishing or re-finishing stuff. Most are simply crap, or vastly too shallow. A very few craftspeople are patient, thoughtful and insightful. Yours is a good review of bristles. I actually mean good. Painting, or properly: "Finishing", isn't an infinite topic, but is a vast topic. Your focus, perhaps inadvertently, is on interior/exterior housing. I do those too. I also wax, oil, stain, varnish, lacquer, shellac, buff & sand endlessly. Except new-builds, most painting is an over-paint of older finishes. And brush selection is more important than most think. First, is the cost worth it? Maybe, maybe not. For some jobs, Dollar Store-type brushes are just fine. But the tips curl, bristles fall out and kink-over, and they're a bit mushy. On some jobs, it doesn't matter. Inside, most surfaces are smooth, and your every observation is valid, with a minor exception I'll highlight further on. Exteriors are too varied to generalize, unless categorizing. Is it stucco?, mill-sawn new wood?, old weathered wood?, new cement siding?, concrete block?, or smooth planed trim (rare as hens' teeth)?, or combed trim?. Generally, they're moderately to heavily-textured. Mostly, when painting homes, I'm working on exteriors. And they're all quite textured to ridiculously-textured. This demands a quite to very stiff-bristled brush. Personally, I now use only one brand & model of brush, but have tried (thanks to my Sherwin-Williams & Home Depot store managers) a number of different firm to ultra-stiff brushes. I found this brush by happenstance, but it isn't easy to find. It is very stiff, so it quickly gets into all the rough stuff; about 50% of the bristles are flayed so it's still pretty smooth, it's not cheap, but in the mid-range. It's Simm's Renaissance Oval. I was using Wooster & Purdy brushes for trim, and I very much do like them. But not perfect. For weathered, fine or textured surfaces, I found the accuracy I got from this Simms brush allowed me to forego masking, and I could trim to the glass without needing to scrape or tape. (OK, I'm not perfect, there were the odd tiny scrapes needed) There is an unspoken invariable truth about using a paint brush well... First, before starting to paint, soak the brush in whatever is the carrier for your paint. That may be paint-thinner, lacquer-thinner, alcohol, or water. A couple minutes, then bang out the excess fluids and dip your brush to about the depth of your frog in your coating product. Scrape off the obvious excess on the sides of the brush on the side of your coating container. Dip again to what you think is proper, and start to paint. This step is far more useful than you think. Now, your first brush strokes are nice, clean and accurate with good coverage. Trimming around glass or trim frames, or whatever you may be trimming around, ONLY use the tips of your brush to paint with, not the sides of your brush. If you properly loaded your brush, the coating material flows down to the tips of your brush. Paint the brush as perpendicular as possible to the surface you want coated, and the paint will flow to that surface. If you try to paint with the side of your brush, you'll screw up and end up trying to over-coat your screw-up with the other color or scrape. When you learn this, you'll never need to mask again with tape... Which is why Most people hate painting...Taping! And brush-cleaning! If you pre-soaked your brush... It cleans a LOT more easily, even after using those #$%^&*() fast-dry paints. Interiors. Even with a less stiff brush, this method works. However, I still use the 1.5" version of this brush for molding-trim to glass as smoothness isn't necessary, but accuracy is. Otherwise, on interior trim, I use the Wooster or Purdy brushes as they load well and are more smooth. I said so many more brilliant things in my lost first version, but hey! you don't want to read my rant. Like finishing quarter-sawn wood with alkyd varnish and feeling like you were falling into the gleaming wonders of life on earth, blah, blah, blah...
Great vid Ethan!! Ironically, I finished a mini paint project in the garage. Painted some masonry, baseboards and some quarter round. A glass of water can. E useful to spread oil based paint, that weighs heavy on the brush. Learned it doing a fence restoration 😉
How do I find part 2 of this video? I love your video on the different kinds of brushes and found it very useful. I am interested in Part 2 and learning more about picking the right roller as well as nap size etc... Currently I am having issues with painting my textured plaster walls and getting the paint into or on the entire surface. Have tried different nap sizes and still have issues. Another problem I am running into is previous poor drywall/plaster patching which leaves the walls or ceiling not flat. The roller then only touches at the high points. This is even more troublesome when I am trying to paint a smooth surface and want a smooth coat of paint so using a lower nap roller. Would love to see a video that not only explains how and what to do but shows the process. The problem I have run into is also not knowing about the wall not being flat until I have the roller on the wall filled with paint. In the meantime I would love any useful feedback, tips, tricks or suggestions. Thanks and keep up with the videos!
Excellent video, a very informed presenatation. Thank You Honest Carpenter. I don't live in the US but it's good to see that water based low VOC paints are widely used. I would like to think we are not that far behind in Europe and I have used w/based paint outdoors in a very aggressive weather marine environment with frankly better results. Many people only give 10 years for oil paint to be available and as it is bad for everyone's bronchial system...the quicker the better,
As a painter of nearly 20 years I leaned something new which is kind of rare these days when it comes to painting. Another most excellent video, my dude! This is why I’m subscribed to you because I usually learn something new, or something I’ve forgotten along the way. On top of that, most of everything in your videos are pretty easy to verify for the novice which solidifies your credibility. As for the painting series, will you be covering the use of spray rigs? I haven’t touched one in forever but was looking at getting a new one for some potential, upcoming jobs in the future and wouldn’t mind seeing a refresher video on the subject. Thanks once again for all of the great and free content you put out there! I can’t wait to have some play money for some new work tools I can purchase through your affiliate links. Have a blessed weekend! Much love and gratitude, good sir.
Oh, and almost all of my brushes are Purdy as well minus a couple of Woosters and my junk brushes. Wooster used to be top of the line 20 years ago when I began learning the trade but Purdy has had them beat hand’s down in my book for at least the past decade. I love my Purdy brushes and treat them better than the last few women I’ve dated! 😅🤷🏻♂️
I learnt quite a bit. Please do a video on how to MAINTAIN brushes. Look forward to a similar video on rollers. Thanks an EXCELLENT, to the point, no BS video.
This video brings back so many memories from when I was a kid. My dad was a paint contractor for 30 yrs or so. He had brushes that he treated as a chef would his knives. No one was allowed to touch his knives, I mean brushes…😂😂😂. Some jobs he did however use “disposable” brushes. Wait, I just had a thought, Maybe because those are the brushes I used when I wanted to go to work with him.
this comes at such a great time - currently planning to repaint all the things and got really overwhelmed by all the paint brush and roller options out there
One disadvantage of covid was I was unable to visit my sister in Montana (I live in Alberta); incidentally, when I visit, I usually stop by the hardware store and pick up a few Purdy brushes…over two years was a long time to wait to pick up a nice, new brush! lol
I used to be amazed at how durable Purdy brushes were when I was a residential painter. They can last for years of use if treated properly and they give the best results.
Hello The Honest Carpenter ! I plan to use a clear oil-based Gloss finish on a fence I am 're-doing' . As a compromise, without sacrificing performance, what type of SNYTHETIC brush would you recommend if I am NOT going to use a product that uses animal parts as a source. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thank you from KFH.
Excellent information and production as usual, Ethan! I've also had great results using cheap disposable foam "brushes" when applying oils, varnishes, and sealers, especially to rough wood and outdoor furniture.
Great advice! So if I have a new front door and I need to “seal it so the wood doesn’t swell up”, what kind of paint should I use? Or should I just use a sealer? Do I need to hire a pro or can I do it myself?
I was painting baseboard and using an "extender". Without the extender, the paint would nearly dry on the far end of the baseboard and look streaky and uneven. Please comment on extenders.
I third Purdy, although I do have some Wooster brushes. As far as cheap brushes, I will sometimes buy one for a one off job so I can just toss it after the job.
🤗🤗👍😎 ETHAN …. A very good topic to start with because most people don’t understand what you were about to share with them and I was very blessed to have someone when I first started out shared this with me and thankfully I’m retired but I was brushes did me a lot of good
Great info! And timely. Paint is changing pretty quickly and it's good to know what will give you the best result. I'm looking forward to the roller video. Best!
Great video! Now I'll know which brush to grab for which job! Something that would be imensely helpful to cover would be cleaning oil based finishes out of brushes. It seems like an hour long process for me so I feel like there must be a better approach! Thanks!
Super interesting to watch I've never thought about this topic very much but it will be saved for future reference now! I also would love to see a video on cleaning brushes properly after use from water based paints, oil based paints, interior and exterior stain if there are differences in cleaning based on each application.
Excellent and informative video on paint brushes. I really knew or paid attention to what are the obvious reasons and advantages for the different types. Look forward to the continuing series on this topic.
My favorite brushes are made in Vietnam by Nour. They are sold in Canada by Home Depot. Home Hardware's premium line used to be made by Nour. Unfortunately, they switched to a Chinese supplyer which are inferior.
No matter what brush brand or type you like when it's new run it back and froth over some 50 grit sharp sandpaper, it will fray those ends and help prevent dripping and allow a longer cutline {more paint in brushtip}. Needed more with synthetics than naturals.
On new brushes also a good idea to run a curry brush {Rubber is better for this job} through them to pull any already loose bristles, needed more on naturals than synthetics. But that being said cheap brushs are bad for shedding, they need it the worst.
I use oil-based poly a lot. I have tried several brands of natural bristle brushes and they all suck. The best brush for an oil-based poly is a sponge brush. Better yet... Dilute the poly with mineral spirits or acetone and wipe it on with a lint-free cloth. Spraying it on works well too.
Hola! 🖐 As usual, super informative video packed into a short presentation. Like anything else, using quality tools results in quality results BUT just as important is using the correct tool. Thank you for this video and I look forward to the next installment. Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊
Very useful video. Thanks! I look forward to more paint videos, in particular the various grades and types of paints and their optimal uses. It would also be really useful to hear your tips on how to clean good-quality and pricey brushes properly. Thanks for considering.
Another reason you don’t want to use natural bristle with water base is that the water causes natural bristles to swell which causes large brush marks. This was a great video, thanks!
I learned this only too late to get it into the video, JS. But I’ll pin it here at the top-thanks for the great tip!
I've read the labels but never knew the why behind the different brushes.
Looking forward to the next installments.
That sounds to be a thing only when we talk painting Walls. Because paints for warhammer are also water based, and in this case natural bristles are the best brushes without a doubt. Kolinsky sable brushes to be more exact.
Hopefully you can cover some information on cleaning paint brushes to prolong their use. I've always struggled with that.
Definitely going to cover that topic, Squeegie!
Best way to clean a brush that you used in an oil based paint, is to add some thinner in a can, like an empty paint can. And let it sit in there for a while. 30-45 minute or so. Then take it by the handle and dip it up and down in the same thinner. Brush the bottom of the can back and forth lightly and after a few minutes your brush will be clean. You absolutely do not want to let the paint get up into the brush any more than a couple inches. Water on a brush that was used in oil based paint will ruin it.
If you are cleaning a brush that you just used with latex paint. You let water pour down the bristles from the handle down to the tip of the bristles. Get the bulk of the paint off that way. Then under the running water start separating the bristles and let the water rinse into it. Over and over again. Do that a lot. Brush the bottom of the sink like with the oil based paint in the thinner can. You can take your fingers like make an OK 👌🏼 sign with them around the bristles and let the water lightly pour down through your fingers and into the bristles. That helps keep the shape of the brush and keeps the bristles from being rolled back and losing their spot in the brush. But you mainly have to have some patience with cleaning both kinds of paint out of the brushes. Dry them as well as you can by putting the handle of them in your palms and spinning it back and forth a few good times and put it back into the shuck that you took it out of when you bought it. Hope that helps. I’m sure a video by this guy will do a lot better explaining it than what I can. But you can trust me, cause I’m a painter lol
You remove an oil-based paint with... oil.
Any oil, like a sunflower oil for example.
@@boonicholas1530 Thanks for the cleaning tips. I found that for latex paints, I remove as much paint from my brushes by squeezing the bristles between newspapers, brush any remaining paint on more newspapers, then washing under water. I use less water doing it this way and also take less time. And like you said, dry the brush by spinning them dry and I wrap the bristles in a paper towel to let them dry before I put my brushes back into the shuck the brushes came in. I take care of my paint brushes and haven't had to but a new one in years. Again, thanks.
MOST important, before you put a brush into paint, put in whatever you use to clean the brush, water or paint thinner, as appropriate. Let the liquid soak all the way up to the top of the brush. Shake off the excess. Don't bury the brush in the paint (2" as suggested) and the paint won't wick up to the base. Cleaning is a snap. I have 15+ year-old brushes that look like new.
Hi I'm 14 and I love carpentry and this channel has inspired me so much and helped with my projects thanks
I’ve been working with the same 4 Purdy 2 1/2” brushes for the better part of a decade. I pamper those things more than my dogs! Woe be to he who even _looks_ at my brushes, much less dares to touch them!
That’s about how long Nick has had his, monkey 😆
Me as well. Taking care of your paint brushes will ensure they last! I've certainly gotten my money's worth from my Purdy brushes.
@@judih.8754 Amen, amen.
Same. Most of the brushes I currently have I’ve had for about 8 years now. I still need to go get a few more to save the life of the things ones I baby the most.
Excellent video. Have always been lost when looking at a wall of paint brushes and no one around to help. Appreciate your videos so much, an old dog can still learn new tricks. 👍👍👍
Thank you, Chuck! Glad to help! 😄
I've been a Purdy guy for 20 some years, in part as I've never found a reason to switch. They consistently lay down paint well and last a long time if cared for. Sounds like a good series, looking forward to the upcoming videos.
Have you tried Proform? They have phenomenal interior brushes that are reasonably priced.
My favorite brush is a 1&1/2" angle. I can get so much done with that thing!
Great video and great series! As a diy person who has painted for years, I NEVER knew any of this and neither did the handymen who helped me over the years. Can’t wait to see what else I don’t know!
I hear you. I’ve almost always used Purdue brushes, but the only thing I knew was using natural bristle with oil paint. I’ll be paying closer attention from now on before I buy any more brushes.
So glad the insider tips were helpful!
My dad has been a painter for over 50 years, and has used the 3 inch Nylox Swan for everything for decades. It is the best brush on the market, for interior and exterior. That is painting in Houston Texas where it is extremely hot
This perfectly explained why the brush I was using to touch up large areas of a few shingles 2 weeks ago seemed to be skim coating instead of layering evenly. Now I know what to go buy.
So informative! I’ve been thinking of doing some painting at home and needed this information. Thank you!
Thanks pz! Good luck with the painting-work safe! 🙂
Natalie from Maine. Thanks for this video. I do a lot of painting around the house.ive used Perdy for years ,take care of it and they last & last. Tried the less $$ common brand with my last project, it wasn't that worth the extra cost...well after a few strokes, went back and spend the extra couple of dollars .If you paint ,you know the difference between between a good brush and a cheaper brand brush and it shows in your work , Gosh I'm fussy.LOL.
This is the BEST explanation of different types of bristles and their use. You got yourself a new subscriber.
Thank you, Juan! 😄
I found this to be very educational and helpful for a homeowner. Did not realize the variety of paint brushes, and what they do very informative.
Glad it helped, Randy! Thanks for watching 😄
Always appreciate the great advice Ethan. Very informative & straight forward. No hype or fluff.
I find these videos are so informative / educational. Thank you! I remember you let the other pro speak in the water heater video. I really liked that format. I'd suggest featuring Nick show and tell in the video too. I think it serves as a great incentive for them to do these videos since they'd be able to get their names out and generate more leads.
Hope you get to 1M soon!
Even though I do painting around the house, this was an excellent explanation. I feel more confident now about picking a brush. Let people know that the better the brush the higher the cost. A video on cleaning a brush is going to be necessary. Great start!
Second the brush cleaning video
It also depends on the paints your using. Some paints don't require a $30-$40 brush. I got by fine in my painting career with a $12-20 brush. These are in Canadian dollars of course. Also the top of the ferrule in Purdy brushes rust if you clean them with a wire brush under warm water as the ferrules tend to not hold up well to abrasions and the metal can corrode quite easily. I doubt that has changed much. The Purdy comb is useless imho and does not properly take all the paint off the brush. I gather the Purdy comb is primarily used to straighten the bristles but here's another pro-tip: All you need to do is make sure the bristles are wet and in a solid shape and let air dry it out over a day or two and you will not lose the shape. It also helps to have boxes of extra brushes on hand to get back to work quickly. If you need to use the brush you just cleaned right away go outside and hit the brush against your boot to kick out the water then use your hand to condition the bristles back in shape.
With Purdy brushes its all hype and the fact that they are made in America which is the reason for those prices. I don't need an autograph on my brush either. I actually here stories online about their quality going downhill. I wouldn't mind buying Purdy brushes for hobby projects but for professional application they are costly and time is money.
Love your collaborative series on all things paint. Very informative. I hope to see more.
Thank you Sean! It’s been very enlightening for me 😄
Very helpful! I’ve logged a lot of painting hours in my day, and I’ve always been a big fan of Purdy brushes. Even so, I wasn’t familiar with all the synthetic options and what they’re each good for. The breakdown of all the different synthetic brush options was very informative. Thanks!
Excellent information! I always used artist instinct to pick a brush - now I actually KNOW what to choose. Interesting about the low VOC brush!
Great video. One topic I’d love see if explained is how to clean and maintain brushes. I was amazed when you said the painter had been using the same brushes for years.
Cleaning and storage of brushes would be nice !
Coming before too long, Wayne!
Painter 25 years...my favorite cut in brush is the Zibra Chisled Wedge...love that brush.
Good pro info!
Go buy one ! Home Depot or Lowes @@TheHonestCarpenter
I've been using Purdy brushes for 20 years and they have been the best I've used. I think you covered how brushes work very well. Next if you can show people how to use the brush to cut in the paint i think that will help people painting
Thanks Wayne! Already collecting some cutting in footage 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter i would have loved working with you you seam like a good person
@@TheHonestCarpenter a common, big misconception is that a “cut brush” is required to do cut ins. For the novice, that may be true but for seasoned pros we typically prefer our brushes without the angle so we can hold more paint on it per dip in the bucket which means longer brush strokes.
Awe, I just blew away my overly-long yet ever so good reply. Great video by the way, yet I have caveats. First, I'm a full-time handyman that does a lot of everything, including painting houses and refinishing fine furniture, busting boulders, demolition to construction. You I've watched periodically and have a huge admiration for your carpentry abilities and expertise,
Painting (love it or hate it) I have too much experience with. From fine furniture building, repairs & refinishing, to exteriors, industrial patching to tarring foundations.
I have several Wooster, Purdy, Simms and other brands of paint brushes. I've watched too many "How-To" videos from manufacturers of paint and painting implements and guys/women finishing or re-finishing stuff. Most are simply crap, or vastly too shallow. A very few craftspeople are patient, thoughtful and insightful. Yours is a good review of bristles. I actually mean good.
Painting, or properly: "Finishing", isn't an infinite topic, but is a vast topic. Your focus, perhaps inadvertently, is on interior/exterior housing. I do those too. I also wax, oil, stain, varnish, lacquer, shellac, buff & sand endlessly.
Except new-builds, most painting is an over-paint of older finishes. And brush selection is more important than most think. First, is the cost worth it? Maybe, maybe not. For some jobs, Dollar Store-type brushes are just fine. But the tips curl, bristles fall out and kink-over, and they're a bit mushy. On some jobs, it doesn't matter.
Inside, most surfaces are smooth, and your every observation is valid, with a minor exception I'll highlight further on.
Exteriors are too varied to generalize, unless categorizing. Is it stucco?, mill-sawn new wood?, old weathered wood?, new cement siding?, concrete block?, or smooth planed trim (rare as hens' teeth)?, or combed trim?. Generally, they're moderately to heavily-textured. Mostly, when painting homes, I'm working on exteriors. And they're all quite textured to ridiculously-textured.
This demands a quite to very stiff-bristled brush. Personally, I now use only one brand & model of brush, but have tried (thanks to my Sherwin-Williams & Home Depot store managers) a number of different firm to ultra-stiff brushes. I found this brush by happenstance, but it isn't easy to find. It is very stiff, so it quickly gets into all the rough stuff; about 50% of the bristles are flayed so it's still pretty smooth, it's not cheap, but in the mid-range. It's Simm's Renaissance Oval.
I was using Wooster & Purdy brushes for trim, and I very much do like them. But not perfect. For weathered, fine or textured surfaces, I found the accuracy I got from this Simms brush allowed me to forego masking, and I could trim to the glass without needing to scrape or tape. (OK, I'm not perfect, there were the odd tiny scrapes needed)
There is an unspoken invariable truth about using a paint brush well...
First, before starting to paint, soak the brush in whatever is the carrier for your paint. That may be paint-thinner, lacquer-thinner, alcohol, or water. A couple minutes, then bang out the excess fluids and dip your brush to about the depth of your frog in your coating product. Scrape off the obvious excess on the sides of the brush on the side of your coating container. Dip again to what you think is proper, and start to paint. This step is far more useful than you think. Now, your first brush strokes are nice, clean and accurate with good coverage.
Trimming around glass or trim frames, or whatever you may be trimming around, ONLY use the tips of your brush to paint with, not the sides of your brush. If you properly loaded your brush, the coating material flows down to the tips of your brush. Paint the brush as perpendicular as possible to the surface you want coated, and the paint will flow to that surface. If you try to paint with the side of your brush, you'll screw up and end up trying to over-coat your screw-up with the other color or scrape. When you learn this, you'll never need to mask again with tape... Which is why Most people hate painting...Taping! And brush-cleaning! If you pre-soaked your brush... It cleans a LOT more easily, even after using those #$%^&*() fast-dry paints.
Interiors. Even with a less stiff brush, this method works. However, I still use the 1.5" version of this brush for molding-trim to glass as smoothness isn't necessary, but accuracy is. Otherwise, on interior trim, I use the Wooster or Purdy brushes as they load well and are more smooth.
I said so many more brilliant things in my lost first version, but hey! you don't want to read my rant. Like finishing quarter-sawn wood with alkyd varnish and feeling like you were falling into the gleaming wonders of life on earth, blah, blah, blah...
Great vid Ethan!! Ironically, I finished a mini paint project in the garage. Painted some masonry, baseboards and some quarter round. A glass of water can. E useful to spread oil based paint, that weighs heavy on the brush. Learned it doing a fence restoration 😉
How do I find part 2 of this video? I love your video on the different kinds of brushes and found it very useful. I am interested in Part 2 and learning more about picking the right roller as well as nap size etc... Currently I am having issues with painting my textured plaster walls and getting the paint into or on the entire surface. Have tried different nap sizes and still have issues. Another problem I am running into is previous poor drywall/plaster patching which leaves the walls or ceiling not flat. The roller then only touches at the high points. This is even more troublesome when I am trying to paint a smooth surface and want a smooth coat of paint so using a lower nap roller. Would love to see a video that not only explains how and what to do but shows the process. The problem I have run into is also not knowing about the wall not being flat until I have the roller on the wall filled with paint. In the meantime I would love any useful feedback, tips, tricks or suggestions. Thanks and keep up with the videos!
I'm sticking with my Premier Montauk 3" wide!! Use to use Purdy but brushes are made to inconsistent imo.
Thanks for this valuable, spot-on video. I have been painting around the house for years but never knew what I now know, thanks to you.
Good info. Never knew that natural bristles do a better job for varnishes.
Really great. As an old weekend diy warrior, I wish I had this great information years ago.
Excellent video, a very informed presenatation. Thank You Honest Carpenter.
I don't live in the US but it's good to see that water based low VOC paints are widely used. I would like to think we are not that far behind in Europe and I have used w/based paint outdoors in a very aggressive weather marine environment with frankly better results. Many people only give 10 years for oil paint to be available and as it is bad for everyone's bronchial system...the quicker the better,
Great video for a lot of us that do not paint professionally
As a painter of nearly 20 years I leaned something new which is kind of rare these days when it comes to painting. Another most excellent video, my dude! This is why I’m subscribed to you because I usually learn something new, or something I’ve forgotten along the way. On top of that, most of everything in your videos are pretty easy to verify for the novice which solidifies your credibility.
As for the painting series, will you be covering the use of spray rigs? I haven’t touched one in forever but was looking at getting a new one for some potential, upcoming jobs in the future and wouldn’t mind seeing a refresher video on the subject.
Thanks once again for all of the great and free content you put out there! I can’t wait to have some play money for some new work tools I can purchase through your affiliate links. Have a blessed weekend! Much love and gratitude, good sir.
Oh, and almost all of my brushes are Purdy as well minus a couple of Woosters and my junk brushes. Wooster used to be top of the line 20 years ago when I began learning the trade but Purdy has had them beat hand’s down in my book for at least the past decade. I love my Purdy brushes and treat them better than the last few women I’ve dated! 😅🤷🏻♂️
Best and most informative video I've seen on paint brush differences, thank you! And Nick also! 👍👍
Thank you, Robin! 😄
I learnt quite a bit. Please do a video on how to MAINTAIN brushes. Look forward to a similar video on rollers. Thanks an EXCELLENT, to the point, no BS video.
Very helpful. I have always wanted to know the difference between each brush with each paint. I can’t wait to see your next video.
This video brings back so many memories from when I was a kid. My dad was a paint contractor for 30 yrs or so. He had brushes that he treated as a chef would his knives. No one was allowed to touch his knives, I mean brushes…😂😂😂. Some jobs he did however use “disposable” brushes. Wait, I just had a thought, Maybe because those are the brushes I used when I wanted to go to work with him.
Next time I paint, I will look at the paint to see if it is low voc. A lot of good information I didn't until now.
Much of it is these days, rose! Though it takes on voc’s when tints get added 😬
Honestly, the whole VOC thing is a gimmick to justify higher prices, in my opinion.
Take a whiff of any paint rated exterior versus interior grade paint. You can smell the difference. Kilz oil-based got that stnak
this comes at such a great time - currently planning to repaint all the things and got really overwhelmed by all the paint brush and roller options out there
Extemely helpful thanks for putting this together. I’ve made so many of these now obvious mistakes in the past.
A lot of great information in this video. Thanks very much for all the great work you do.
Thanks Ben!
Thank You! I use Purdy's! Be Blessed!
Great informative video. I was totally unaware of the idiosyncrasies of paint brushes.
Probably THE most informative video you have made yet. Excellent job.
Really good video with well organized and well delivered information.
I'll be searching for and watching more !
Thanks so much !
One disadvantage of covid was I was unable to visit my sister in Montana (I live in Alberta); incidentally, when I visit, I usually stop by the hardware store and pick up a few Purdy brushes…over two years was a long time to wait to pick up a nice, new brush! lol
They don't sell Purdy brushes in Alberta?
YOU NAILED IT!!!!! AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME 😎 every painter should educate themselves and your video is excellent 👍🏼
Great video! Please make sure you produce a video on how to clean paint bushes!
I used to be amazed at how durable Purdy brushes were when I was a residential painter. They can last for years of use if treated properly and they give the best results.
Great video! I look forward to the rest of the series. Please include a video about cleaning brushes and rollers. Thanks
Excellent - I'd really like to see a segment on cleaning brushes / rollers
Hello The Honest Carpenter ! I plan to use a clear oil-based Gloss finish on a fence I am 're-doing' . As a compromise, without sacrificing performance, what type of SNYTHETIC brush would you recommend if I am NOT going to use a product that uses animal parts as a source. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thank you from KFH.
Excellent information and production as usual, Ethan!
I've also had great results using cheap disposable foam "brushes" when applying oils, varnishes, and sealers, especially to rough wood and outdoor furniture.
Great advice! So if I have a new front door and I need to “seal it so the wood doesn’t swell up”, what kind of paint should I use? Or should I just use a sealer? Do I need to hire a pro or can I do it myself?
I was painting baseboard and using an "extender". Without the extender, the paint would nearly dry on the far end of the baseboard and look streaky and uneven. Please comment on extenders.
I second the Purdy brush nomination.
Great brand, Martha!
I third Purdy, although I do have some Wooster brushes. As far as cheap brushes, I will sometimes buy one for a one off job so I can just toss it after the job.
Yet again, something learned. Thanks to Nick as well!
This was super helpful! I wish I had watched this before painting our guest house.
I love the brand Corona and their Excalibur line
Top video mate. I have never considered the material when purchasing brushes. Looking forward to your next video on the subject.
What do you use for stain? Specifically for staining outside like decks
Brilliant video. Really appreciate you sharing this invaluable knowledge. Many thanks 👍.
🤗🤗👍😎 ETHAN …. A very good topic to start with because most people don’t understand what you were about to share with them and I was very blessed to have someone when I first started out shared this with me and thankfully I’m retired but I was brushes did me a lot of good
Great info! And timely. Paint is changing pretty quickly and it's good to know what will give you the best result. I'm looking forward to the roller video. Best!
Holy Crap!?!?! Who Knew?!?!?! Thank you!! Terrific information - well delivered. Thank you sir! Cheers
Although I don’t always NEED to see a video you post I always watch so I learn something new. Keep up the great work sir 🍻
Thank you for the details on the brushes.
Great video! Now I'll know which brush to grab for which job! Something that would be imensely helpful to cover would be cleaning oil based finishes out of brushes. It seems like an hour long process for me so I feel like there must be a better approach! Thanks!
Great video!! Excellent info for us nonprofessional painters...
Very informative, I look forward to the rest of the videos in this series.
Super interesting to watch I've never thought about this topic very much but it will be saved for future reference now! I also would love to see a video on cleaning brushes properly after use from water based paints, oil based paints, interior and exterior stain if there are differences in cleaning based on each application.
Great video, very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to create such useful content.
Thank you again for some great condensed information
Thank you for this educational video, I have learnt a lot today, will have a much better idea of what to buy in the future 👍
Thank you for branching out to plumbing and painting for the DIYers.
Sure thing, Richard! I’ve been enjoying it. More to come!
@@TheHonestCarpenter the information is also right on and important to know.
Thanks for the video. What about foam brushes?
Any recomendations for a waterbased-Alkyd paint. (Seems contradictory in nature)
Great job, Ethan. This was a great idea for a series. Thanks.
Tips and tricks in spraying paint would be nice i sprayed for the first time today and well i needed 3 showers
Now I know. Thank you for educating me.
Excellent and informative video on paint brushes. I really knew or paid attention to what are the obvious reasons and advantages for the different types. Look forward to the continuing series on this topic.
As usual, very comprehensive and well done.
That was complex but thanks. I only knew about the synthetic bristles use for latex.
My favorite brushes are made in Vietnam by Nour. They are sold in Canada by Home Depot. Home Hardware's premium line used to be made by Nour. Unfortunately, they switched to a Chinese supplyer which are inferior.
Thank you for the information Ethan 🙂.
You’re welcome, Mary Beth!
No matter what brush brand or type you like when it's new run it back and froth over some 50 grit sharp sandpaper, it will fray those ends and help prevent dripping and allow a longer cutline {more paint in brushtip}. Needed more with synthetics than naturals.
On new brushes also a good idea to run a curry brush {Rubber is better for this job} through them to pull any already loose bristles, needed more on naturals than synthetics. But that being said cheap brushs are bad for shedding, they need it the worst.
Never heard this Brian. I’ll experiment with it!
@@TheHonestCarpenter I Learned it from My Uncle Max in 1966.
Thanks for this informative video. I'd normally buy whichever is most affordable.
The blue purdy work best overall for me.
I use oil-based poly a lot. I have tried several brands of natural bristle brushes and they all suck. The best brush for an oil-based poly is a sponge brush. Better yet... Dilute the poly with mineral spirits or acetone and wipe it on with a lint-free cloth. Spraying it on works well too.
Sir main gate gu pipe par kitne inch ka brush use kare, gate size 7.5 by 7.5.
Please discuss best paint base for climate. -20 to 100+: Humid: Salty air: Acidic rain etc. And base and sealants. Thanks.
I’ll try to get it covered, Julie!🙂
Super interesting and helpful since I need to do some painting soon.
Hola! 🖐 As usual, super informative video packed into a short presentation. Like anything else, using quality tools results in quality results BUT just as important is using the correct tool. Thank you for this video and I look forward to the next installment. Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊
Excellent video, looking forward to part 2,3,4…
Great information! May we please have a video on how he maintains his brushes?
Definitely, Scorpio!
Great content. It's good to brush up on my brush knowledge.
This was awesome. Can you do a whole series on dry wall repair to painting?
Thank you! We’ll definitely try to cover it 😄
Yep, I like these kinds of videos 👍lots of information in a short video
Very useful video. Thanks! I look forward to more paint videos, in particular the various grades and types of paints and their optimal uses. It would also be really useful to hear your tips on how to clean good-quality and pricey brushes properly. Thanks for considering.