Hi Cam. Really enjoying your videos with your clear explanations. I was hoping that you would do a video on how to address the jerkiness of the controls on these small Chinese excavators. I purchased a 1.5 Ton unit with a 3-cylinder Yanmar diesel engine a year or so ago. I'm still struggling with getting used to the very touchy controls - unlike my John Deere 4110 tractor, which has a similar Yanmar engine, but the controls are very smooth. For the auxiliary function valve, I could not find flow restrictors with the right fittings. So, I had a machine shop braze shut the inside of both couplers and then I drilled a tiny hole through the middle of them. It helps a lot, as the hydraulic swing bucket no longer slams from one side to the other and the grabber bucket doesn't slam open or close. I also read that someone on another forum did something similar by fashioning a 2.5mm flange nut with a tiny hole to fit between the inside of the hydraulic cylinder, where the hose attaches, to reduce the flow. There may be some temperature concerns of the hydraulic fluid by doing this, but not sure. I can send you the links if you want. I don't think that I could perform the method you are describing of modifying the spool. A third option I read about is adjusting the two hydraulic pressure valves on the valve block. Maybe you can devise a DIY method that those of us without machine shop skills can handle. Keep up with your videos. You are performing a service that is much needed and greatly appreciated.
Cam! you're to be commended for all your work on these machines. your comments and suggestions for taming the "jerk" is exactly what I am looking to do.. if I could ever get AGT to sell me a valve (I'm not excited on experimenting on machine yet) :)
Thanks for the great video. It's very informative. I’m trying to improve my chinese excavator. My excavator had a problem with the boom cylinder being too slow. I initially thought it was a cylinder issue, but it turned out to be a spool problem. When compared to the bucket spool, the oil passage was much narrower. When I swapped them, the boom's movement completely changed. So, I've requested replacement spools from the manufacturer.
Did you measure the length and OD of the spool valve? I would want to find a spare off eBay to modify in the event I screw machining the notches in. I see on eBay 13GPM spool valves from China. A 7 spool for $110.
If you have access to a lathe, I suggest adding a very gentle chamfer around the edges of that spool. I'm not too partial to the completely square edges in there anyway, so I was going to just machine a new spool with a radius and the chamfer I mentioned. Making a test mod without destroying the original is a good idea!
@@smca7271 went fine. The tolerances aren't an issue at all. You start with a precision ground shaft and turn the profile. It definitely helped, but wasn't a complete magical solution. I think the hydraulic system has a few issues that are expensive and difficult to repair on a "do this mod" basis. I have a few different ideas, but since I don't own the machine, I won't have it back for more work soon. I'll probably buy something for myself, but it will be bigger, so I don't know what its issues will be.
Thanks for the reply.. I put a 7 degree chamfer about 4 mm long,works great,can move it now without it jumping like it's possessed, only took an hour on the lathe,thanks for the advice.
I have a few questions about my hydraulic system on my mini excavator and wondering if you can answer? The main DCV has a separate spring loaded nut next to the pressure adjustment valve. Do you know if I can pressure test my system here? I have a picture but not sure if I can add here? Do you have a site where I can send a photo of the DCV?
At the 1 minute mark, what is that hose with the dial that sticks out more then the others off the valve block? Is it a needle valve type thing? Did it come from the factory with that? Thanks!
Look forward to seeing if this works. Could try it .....has anyone tried it...,a while latter,,I put a small champher (4mm) on mine and this made it a lot better,thanks for the great info.
Did you add the notch grooves every 90 degrees around the spool? I'm wanting to modify mine to be a proportional spool valve as well. I'm guessing getting a new part is near impossible for these unknown China valves. So I don't want to ruin one and have it leaking continuously when it's supposed to be off.
Hi Cam. I have a H12. When moving machine up hill at 2/3 throttle. The machine will move a foot stop for a few seconds move a foot. Got a solution? Thanks
I would sell them without the tube, but they all do have a 1.5” square hole in them if that is ok. Ill add a variant to the website now for just the brackets
@thegarageconnection I'll be looking for it. The hole is fine. I was gonna make something similar for mine for a motor gaurd mount, but like the tube idea also. Do you remember what size bolts it takes, and can you give me your website. I found it on a post, but I dont remember where now. Thanks.
You have the best videos about these chinese machines. Really awesome content. Please keep them coming. Any NEW videos coming soon?
Hi Cam. Really enjoying your videos with your clear explanations. I was hoping that you would do a video on how to address the jerkiness of the controls on these small Chinese excavators. I purchased a 1.5 Ton unit with a 3-cylinder Yanmar diesel engine a year or so ago. I'm still struggling with getting used to the very touchy controls - unlike my John Deere 4110 tractor, which has a similar Yanmar engine, but the controls are very smooth. For the auxiliary function valve, I could not find flow restrictors with the right fittings. So, I had a machine shop braze shut the inside of both couplers and then I drilled a tiny hole through the middle of them. It helps a lot, as the hydraulic swing bucket no longer slams from one side to the other and the grabber bucket doesn't slam open or close. I also read that someone on another forum did something similar by fashioning a 2.5mm flange nut with a tiny hole to fit between the inside of the hydraulic cylinder, where the hose attaches, to reduce the flow. There may be some temperature concerns of the hydraulic fluid by doing this, but not sure. I can send you the links if you want. I don't think that I could perform the method you are describing of modifying the spool. A third option I read about is adjusting the two hydraulic pressure valves on the valve block. Maybe you can devise a DIY method that those of us without machine shop skills can handle. Keep up with your videos. You are performing a service that is much needed and greatly appreciated.
Cam! you're to be commended for all your work on these machines. your comments and suggestions for taming the "jerk" is exactly what I am looking to do.. if I could ever get AGT to sell me a valve (I'm not excited on experimenting on machine yet) :)
Great video. Looking forward to a follow-up if you make a modified spool.
Thanks, will do!
Excellent info!
Thanks for the great video. It's very informative. I’m trying to improve my chinese excavator.
My excavator had a problem with the boom cylinder being too slow. I initially thought it was a cylinder issue, but it turned out to be a spool problem. When compared to the bucket spool, the oil passage was much narrower. When I swapped them, the boom's movement completely changed. So, I've requested replacement spools from the manufacturer.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Did you measure the length and OD of the spool valve? I would want to find a spare off eBay to modify in the event I screw machining the notches in.
I see on eBay 13GPM spool valves from China. A 7 spool for $110.
If you have access to a lathe, I suggest adding a very gentle chamfer around the edges of that spool. I'm not too partial to the completely square edges in there anyway, so I was going to just machine a new spool with a radius and the chamfer I mentioned. Making a test mod without destroying the original is a good idea!
I'd be in for this , tolerances are pretty fine and steel pretty hard....how did it go.
@@smca7271 went fine. The tolerances aren't an issue at all. You start with a precision ground shaft and turn the profile. It definitely helped, but wasn't a complete magical solution. I think the hydraulic system has a few issues that are expensive and difficult to repair on a "do this mod" basis. I have a few different ideas, but since I don't own the machine, I won't have it back for more work soon. I'll probably buy something for myself, but it will be bigger, so I don't know what its issues will be.
Thanks for the reply.. I put a 7 degree chamfer about 4 mm long,works great,can move it now without it jumping like it's possessed, only took an hour on the lathe,thanks for the advice.
I have a few questions about my hydraulic system on my mini excavator and wondering if you can answer? The main DCV has a separate spring loaded nut next to the pressure adjustment valve. Do you know if I can pressure test my system here? I have a picture but not sure if I can add here? Do you have a site where I can send a photo of the DCV?
Very good and informative video.. great job
At the 1 minute mark, what is that hose with the dial that sticks out more then the others off the valve block? Is it a needle valve type thing? Did it come from the factory with that?
Thanks!
👍
Look forward to seeing if this works. Could try it .....has anyone tried it...,a while latter,,I put a small champher (4mm) on mine and this made it a lot better,thanks for the great info.
1/8 carbide die grinder bit and make the notch 2x as deep works good.
Did you add the notch grooves every 90 degrees around the spool? I'm wanting to modify mine to be a proportional spool valve as well. I'm guessing getting a new part is near impossible for these unknown China valves. So I don't want to ruin one and have it leaking continuously when it's supposed to be off.
Do you have a north American electrical scimatic ? I have a copy of the Chinese version, but I don't under them .
I probably could make one that would work
Is the return the top line into the tank or the bottom line?
Return is the bottom larger line with the banjo fitting
Hi cam like your videos thank you? How much hydraulic fluid should sho in temp gauge when cold
With all cylinders compressed it should be 1/2 way
Hi Cam. I have a H12. When moving machine up hill at 2/3 throttle. The machine will move a foot stop for a few seconds move a foot. Got a solution? Thanks
Might have a restriction in the suction side of the pump
Would you sell just the motor gaurd brackets alone.
I would sell them without the tube, but they all do have a 1.5” square hole in them if that is ok. Ill add a variant to the website now for just the brackets
@thegarageconnection I'll be looking for it. The hole is fine. I was gonna make something similar for mine for a motor gaurd mount, but like the tube idea also. Do you remember what size bolts it takes, and can you give me your website. I found it on a post, but I dont remember where now. Thanks.
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