Hello everyone! I wanted to give you a heads up that there's been a significant update to the Crkbd repository, starting from version 4.0. As a result, all files related to previous versions have been relocated from the main branch. If you're still working on PCBs from earlier versions, don't worry! You can access those files using the following link: github.com/foostan/crkbd/tree/fbb146fe372ce8b2b1543ced67367bf19e910945/
Hey! Thank you so much for the effort you put in for this video. My Corne V3 DIY kit is coming soon, and I will be following this video along with the official docs.
@11:39 "Top components", I think there something that happened on the other side that was not shown? I see some masking tape has appeared and you no longer lay the pcb flat on the table, but have the other pcb under the other end so it lays flat. What did we miss? @14:40 we are looking at the other side and the reset switch, plug, and socket stuff is all in place. We just saw you solder in the other side of that, but didn't see it put together and turned over... correct?
Hey, thanks for the feedback, Yeah probably I missed some footage here, in the written doc I explain what I did github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v3.md#solder-pcb-top-components, but basically, I put all top parts together with some masking tape, so they don't fall when I turn the PCB to solder them. In 14 you're right, I solder them, but now I'm adding another masking tape for soldering the pro-micro "legs", if you don't do this the solder can go through the hole and "glue" the pro micro in the socket. github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v3.md#solder-pro-micro
Muito obrigado pelo feedback Jefferson, estou combinando com o @Lucas1teles pra quando ele voltar a gravar o RebuildCast (lucasteles.dev) vamos fazer um Ep novo sobre o tema, mas valeu a sugestão. :D
Rafael, tenho uma dúvida: É possível usar pinos fêmea quadrados ao invés do redondo? Excelente trabalho construindo esse corne, grato por você ter compartilhado as instruções de montagem no GitHub.
Eu nunca achei/procurei esse tipo de pino fêmea, vc quer aproveitar as pernas que já vem no microcontrolador né? Se ver os teclados mais recentes, eu achei uma alternativa bem melhor do que o fio de cobre :)
Woah never hear about it before, such lovely thumb cluster, similar to my next build github.com/rtitmuss/torn Looking to the board is very similar to this build, same diodes and kailh sockets, please while build take pictures of all the process and upload in github to help someone else trying this build :)
whenever I compile the keymap, there always _legacy in the hex name. And the rgb animation is not like yours, do you upload your keymap to the github? I feel jealous of that reactive key light XD
Sure thing: github.com/rafaeldelboni/alphadel-crkbd-keymap Mine stills shows as legacy tho, even after I did a refactor to use the new split commons. For the reactive key light check my last commit, was what I did to enable it. Have fun!
@@rafaeldelboni Thank you for the keymap, I dunno why my led just froze white on the backlight and turn off the perkey led if "RGBLIGHT_ENABLE = no" and if I change it to "yes" the led back but no reactive light, like it just ignore the config.h new led setting
@@perbowowicaksono252 yeah I dunno if there is much else to do, what you could do is get a new version of the default keymap and apply this settings: github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/crkbd#rgb-matrix
I think you talking about this: vi.aliexpress.com/item/32908270559.html It's a flux pen, flux helps a lot when you soldering to "guide" the tin to the pcb pads. In more recent guides I added the links and pictures of the tools that I used: github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-choc-spaced-switch.md#tools-used
Opa Rafael, ótimo vídeo! Estou usando o seu guia para montagem do meu primeiro Corne, me aventurando nesse novo mundo dos teclados split kkk... Gostaria de saber se tu tem o link de onde compraste as tuas keycaps, estou tendo dificuldades de achar essas keycaps limpas, e ainda as que tenhas 2u de tamanho. Gratidão!
Did you use the copper cable when connecting the pro micro and lcd in place of a male socket header to make it less tall? Or you didnt have a male socket in hand?
I used copper to make it hot swappable instead of soldering the male socket directly into the pcb, but looking at it now I don't recommend, because was super hard to desolder the existing male socket that came presoldered in the oled, and if you need to switch the pro micro you only need to remove 4 solder points
Hey Dany, I hope you doing great! Thanks for watching. I don't have a specific rule for this, I just hold my soldering iron as I was holding a pencil and depending of the tip I'm using in my iron. In short, the most comfortable working position I find after some experimentation hahaha
@@rafaeldelboni wow you have great results at that temp, the manufacturer of ws2812b has recommended 230C with less than 2 sec contact time to avoid damage. I can't get solder to melt within 2 sec at 230C =( might have to try 350C this time. Great video, thank you wholeheartedly and keep it up!
Thanks for the feedback, I will create a list in my github and share the link here, but I'm using the default stuff I find in the stores here in my country nothing fancy. :)
Tal vez te sirva www.amazon.com.mx/soldadura-Soldadura-contenido-s%C3%B3lidos-c%C3%A9lulas/dp/B08CZW4X3L/ref=sr_1_10?__mk_es_MX=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=pencil+flux+Rosin&qid=1624983599&sr=8-10
Hey you can find all plates in the official repository: github.com/foostan/crkbd/tree/master/plates/ In the folder plates you can find plates for every keyboard variation. Have a great day :)
Hey man. I really liked the video and will take your guide as help for when I buy this. What I'm looking for, is the overall cost of this keyboard, but nobody really mentions it. How much did it all cost you in the end? Have a great day.
Hey thanks for your comment, I don't add this information because since I buy piece by piece from China the prices can fluctuate a lot and usually you have the minimum required pieces of parts to buy, so if you will make only one keyboard it will cost more than if you were to build 5. I would say (based on the last time I built a Corne V3 2020) that you would spend somewhere between 50-100 USD, depending on shipping prices and pieces that you already have. You can base the price on one of those DIY Kits you can find to buy on the internet.
@@rafaeldelboni Wow I did not expect it to be this cheap. I have 0 pieces for it but I can at least use the soldering station from my school. I will try to get the parts from China as well. Thanks for the response. Oh, one more question! When you upload the gerber files, do you upload every file listed on there or specific ones for your need? I'm so confused which files to upload since there are mutiple files listed and 2 folders, one of them containing various svg files. Do you know anything on that? Because I tried customizing the pcb to a corne one, but it wasn't working. It only confused me.
Usually you have to upload a Gerber zip, github.com/foostan/crkbd/releases/tag/corne-cherry-v3.0.1 The link has 3 gerbers, one for the PCB github.com/foostan/crkbd/releases/download/corne-cherry-v3.0.1/corne-cherry-gerber.zip, you actually only need this to build a keyboard without any case. The others in the list, are files if you want to build a keyboard using PCB plates as case.
If you want to customize, you need to regenerate the gerbers after, using an special software. If this is your first time I would recommend not changing nothing and even more no unzip the zip :) If you really want to change the PCB files use a program like KiCad and follow this steps: jlcpcb.com/help/article/16-How-to-generate-Gerber-and-Drill-files-in-KiCad-6
Oi, o repositório do teclado mudou muito da época que montei, mas dei uma procurada pra você e tenho quase 100% de certeza que é esse arquivo aqui: github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/main/plates/3x6/svg/plate-cherrymx.svg
hey rafael.i'm quite curious is there any space between pcb and bottom plate?i figured your switch base was placed right against the bottom plate,am i right?will that cause some trouble?
Hey, yes there is some 7mm M2 spacers between the PCB and the bottom plate. You can see them here github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v3.md#mount-the-case
I really like this troubleshooting guide from the keyboard creator: github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-classic/doc/buildguide_en.md#troubleshooting Keep in mind they are connected in serial, meaning you have to install them in the right sequence in order to be able to check if they are all working, luckily the underglow are the first :)
Amigo estou pesquisando ja faz 1 mes sobre esse teclado.onde baixo o arquivo do corne para imprimir o circuito impresso e as cases? Importar das lojas online esta caro demais.
@@lavosier2 Não precisa se desculpar, fico feliz em ajudar. Espero que consiga montar o seu teclado, por sinal existe uma comunidade em português no Telegram se quiser falar mais sobre esse tipo de teclado: t.me/SplitMechBoardsBR
Hey, thanks for watching and the feedback! Yes, the copper wire I bought had a protective varnish layer on it, so I sanded it out until I got some good results with the continuity test in my multimeter.
I just used the default one you can download one here: config.qmk.fm/#/crkbd/rev1/LAYOUT_split_3x6_3 If you interested to check my current firmware layout you can check it here: github.com/rafaeldelboni/alphadel-crkbd-keymap
Yes, but I suggest you search for a pcb designed for this, then you can solder a power switch for your battery, but if you don't mind you could just use some nice with the battery soldered directly on them. I made a wireless corne video if you interested th-cam.com/video/SL6iO4Qg8_s/w-d-xo.html
Well usually wireless pcbs builds don't have LEDs, since LEDs and batteries aren't good friends, but again you can probably just use a pair of nice!nanos and batteries with ZMK firmware in your Corne V3 build :)
Thanks for your feedback! This is the specs of my solder in this video: Alloy: Sn63/Pb37 Diameter: 1mm What you mean by solder size? Are you talking about the soldering station? I use this one: a.aliexpress.com/_mLXy5Zf
I don't know where you live, but for me is about the same price to order the amount of components to build two cornes because the minimum parts quantity and the shipping, so I would recommend (and if you can and is the same situation for you), for the soldered components buy double quantity, then you can start building one as test. If everything goes right you end up with a lot of experience and two keebs where you can sell one hahaha
I remember when I was building mine I did tested with only the underglow and it worked fine, you can see the pics here: github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v3.md#solder-under-glow-leds
do the diodes have to be on the same side as the leds? and also, does that mean that the switches always go on the opposite side of the side where we solder the rest of the stuff? i'm a bit confused cuz i haven't found a clear explanation of this anywhere. i'm building a corne v2 and so far i've soldered the diodes on the same side as the microcontrollers and trrs jack, now i don't know if it will work or if i should even try soldering leds.
Check my guide with images, maybe it can help you better than the video, but the diodezls, LEDs and the switch hotswaps are in the different side of the microcontroller, reset and tres connector github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v3.md#solder-pcb-top-components
Hi, when you send the gerbere file to jlcpcb, although the preview some pcb hole didnt show but the last outcome also cut those hole ( led and pcb edge) for you ?
What OS you using? I never used the QMK Toolbox, but if you are using mac/linux you could give the terminal CLI a try, I documented how I used it here: github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v3.md#installconfigure-qmk There is a huge community in reddit www.reddit.com/r/crkbd, be sure to post your error details like error message, OS, and parts you are using :)
Opa tudo bem? Obrigado pelo feedback. Infelizmente não tenho, mas existe um grupo de telegram de brasileiros que estão montando teclados como esse e provavelmente alguém lá vai ter algo :) t.me/SplitMechBoardsBR
Rafael told you to solder the first led in position 1 those that go under the plate towards the table and it does not turn on when connecting. Should all be soldered to test or should one turn on?
First you need to enable leds in the firmware, after that you have to follow an specific order to debug leds, they are connected in serial so they will turn one after the other, this guide have some tips: github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-classic/doc/buildguide_en.md#some-leds-not-turning-on
How you doing Daniel? Since I'm not a pro, I'm experimenting with the two tips I have here. Currently I'm really liking the flat tip, is working for me really well for smd components. But ideally if you can try some while learning you will find the best for you.
@@rafaeldelboni Bro another question: you are using copper wire instead of rows of male pins 2.54, the reason is decreasing the height of Pro Micro position? But rows of male pins 2.54 can be used as well right?
@@dlopezgo9060 I user the copper to use the Arduino as a socket, if I have problem with mine I can easily replace. You could do the same with female headers and Mill max pins, but I never find those to buy, so made the "socket" legs with copper, you could use diode legs as well.
@@dlopezgo9060 I used 0.5mm, they are a good fit, as you said you could use the male pins www.aliexpress.com/item/32803164240.html, but I don´t know if the height would work with some cases.
Hey hello! Thanks for the interest :) I'm do sell some keyboards, but I'm in Brazil and I don't think the shipping will worth, but If you search in reddit you can find some to buy or people to build for you.
@@rafaeldelboni Thanks for the quick response! How much would you charge, and how much would the shipping be to Sweden? Since you buy your components from aliexpress, and make your own PCBs, I suppose you get away quite cheap. It's very possible that I'd be willing to pay the costs of the components, shipping and of course all your work.
@@johanneskazantzidis5749 Hey I added some contact info in my channel about page, reach me out using my twitter or email as you prefer. I have some other projects in my pipeline to the beginning of 2021, but I can do a price check for you :)
Hello everyone! I wanted to give you a heads up that there's been a significant update to the Crkbd repository, starting from version 4.0. As a result, all files related to previous versions have been relocated from the main branch. If you're still working on PCBs from earlier versions, don't worry! You can access those files using the following link:
github.com/foostan/crkbd/tree/fbb146fe372ce8b2b1543ced67367bf19e910945/
Amazing video, love the effort you put into it as well as the github buildlog!
Thanks for your feedback Devon, glad you liked I hope it can help you to build your own keyboard :D
I love your builds and your github guide. So helpful for people building this keeb. I hope to get my hands on crkbd one day.
Hey thanks a lot for your feedback! Yes do it and come back here (or in Twitter) to send me the pictures!
Hey! Thank you so much for the effort you put in for this video. My Corne V3 DIY kit is coming soon, and I will be following this video along with the official docs.
Thanks for your feedback, I hope you have fun building / using your new keyboard :D
This is gold thank you for sharing!
wOnderfull built. Clean video, cLean hands!!! GrEAT soldering iron craftmanship.
the amount of effort that went into SMD soldering with that huge tip is a pain to my eyes.
Dude thats amazing! Looks super great. If you don't mind me asking, is the acrylic case from keyhive?
Oh actually just checked your github. I'm impressed by how much effort you put into the github.
Thanks a lot for your feedback, yes I sent it to a local lasercutter store in my country, but I've bought some cases in keycapsss.com/ great quality
Awesome 🖤
@11:39 "Top components", I think there something that happened on the other side that was not shown? I see some masking tape has appeared and you no longer lay the pcb flat on the table, but have the other pcb under the other end so it lays flat. What did we miss? @14:40 we are looking at the other side and the reset switch, plug, and socket stuff is all in place. We just saw you solder in the other side of that, but didn't see it put together and turned over... correct?
Hey, thanks for the feedback,
Yeah probably I missed some footage here, in the written doc I explain what I did github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v3.md#solder-pcb-top-components, but basically, I put all top parts together with some masking tape, so they don't fall when I turn the PCB to solder them.
In 14 you're right, I solder them, but now I'm adding another masking tape for soldering the pro-micro "legs", if you don't do this the solder can go through the hole and "glue" the pro micro in the socket.
github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v3.md#solder-pro-micro
Parabéns pelo vídeo, não sei pq não tinha caído aqui antes. Quando sai o episódio 3 do podcast sobre teclados?
Muito obrigado pelo feedback Jefferson, estou combinando com o @Lucas1teles pra quando ele voltar a gravar o RebuildCast (lucasteles.dev) vamos fazer um Ep novo sobre o tema, mas valeu a sugestão. :D
Rafael, tenho uma dúvida: É possível usar pinos fêmea quadrados ao invés do redondo? Excelente trabalho construindo esse corne, grato por você ter compartilhado as instruções de montagem no GitHub.
Eu nunca achei/procurei esse tipo de pino fêmea, vc quer aproveitar as pernas que já vem no microcontrolador né? Se ver os teclados mais recentes, eu achei uma alternativa bem melhor do que o fio de cobre :)
I'm planning to build a pinky4 soon, but can't find any buildlogs or videos on it, unfortunately. It will be my first diy keyboard build.
Woah never hear about it before, such lovely thumb cluster, similar to my next build github.com/rtitmuss/torn
Looking to the board is very similar to this build, same diodes and kailh sockets, please while build take pictures of all the process and upload in github to help someone else trying this build :)
I don't care if it types well... just look at that rgb... it was totaly worth it...
whenever I compile the keymap, there always _legacy in the hex name. And the rgb animation is not like yours, do you upload your keymap to the github? I feel jealous of that reactive key light XD
Sure thing:
github.com/rafaeldelboni/alphadel-crkbd-keymap
Mine stills shows as legacy tho, even after I did a refactor to use the new split commons.
For the reactive key light check my last commit, was what I did to enable it.
Have fun!
@@rafaeldelboni Thank you for the keymap, I dunno why my led just froze white on the backlight and turn off the perkey led if "RGBLIGHT_ENABLE = no"
and if I change it to "yes" the led back but no reactive light, like it just ignore the config.h new led setting
@@perbowowicaksono252 yeah I dunno if there is much else to do, what you could do is get a new version of the default keymap and apply this settings:
github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/crkbd#rgb-matrix
@@rafaeldelboni got it working ^__^. finally rgb madness on my desk
@@rafaeldelboni do you experienced the right slave led animation not sync with the left?
What is the blue stick with chinese writing that you use to prep the solder pads?
I think you talking about this:
vi.aliexpress.com/item/32908270559.html
It's a flux pen, flux helps a lot when you soldering to "guide" the tin to the pcb pads.
In more recent guides I added the links and pictures of the tools that I used:
github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-choc-spaced-switch.md#tools-used
Complete novice question here: when flashing firmware, it's best to do one side at a time?
Hey I'm a novice as well, but I usually do one at the time :)
Hi, I almost finished assembling the keyboard from your wonderful github log. It remains only to find out the thickness of the acrylic case, 3mm?
Thanks for you feedback, really glad to know that's the guide is helping you, yes I'm using an 3mm acrylic thick.
@@rafaeldelboni thanks a lot!
Opa Rafael, ótimo vídeo! Estou usando o seu guia para montagem do meu primeiro Corne, me aventurando nesse novo mundo dos teclados split kkk... Gostaria de saber se tu tem o link de onde compraste as tuas keycaps, estou tendo dificuldades de achar essas keycaps limpas, e ainda as que tenhas 2u de tamanho. Gratidão!
Eu normalmente compro tudo no Aliexpress pesquisa por "Cherry blank keycaps" normalmente vem bastante coisa :)
Did you use the copper cable when connecting the pro micro and lcd in place of a male socket header to make it less tall? Or you didnt have a male socket in hand?
I used copper to make it hot swappable instead of soldering the male socket directly into the pcb, but looking at it now I don't recommend, because was super hard to desolder the existing male socket that came presoldered in the oled, and if you need to switch the pro micro you only need to remove 4 solder points
Hello, good video, how many degrees do you put the soldering iron
Hey Dany, I hope you doing great! Thanks for watching.
I don't have a specific rule for this, I just hold my soldering iron as I was holding a pencil and depending of the tip I'm using in my iron.
In short, the most comfortable working position I find after some experimentation hahaha
@@rafaeldelboni Thank you for the video and the answers! I believe Oh Dany asked about the iron temperature, measured in degrees :D
Oh good God! I'm really stupid! Hahaha
I use 350 Celsius for everything!
@@rafaeldelboni Gracias saludos desde Mexico
@@rafaeldelboni wow you have great results at that temp, the manufacturer of ws2812b has recommended 230C with less than 2 sec contact time to avoid damage. I can't get solder to melt within 2 sec at 230C =( might have to try 350C this time.
Great video, thank you wholeheartedly and keep it up!
pls add a list of equipment that you are using - especially marker with flux for soldering leds
Thanks for the feedback, I will create a list in my github and share the link here, but I'm using the default stuff I find in the stores here in my country nothing fancy. :)
Tal vez te sirva
www.amazon.com.mx/soldadura-Soldadura-contenido-s%C3%B3lidos-c%C3%A9lulas/dp/B08CZW4X3L/ref=sr_1_10?__mk_es_MX=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=pencil+flux+Rosin&qid=1624983599&sr=8-10
Hi! Where can found the models to CUT with laser? For the cases? Many thanks
Hey you can find all plates in the official repository:
github.com/foostan/crkbd/tree/master/plates/
In the folder plates you can find plates for every keyboard variation.
Have a great day :)
Hey man. I really liked the video and will take your guide as help for when I buy this.
What I'm looking for, is the overall cost of this keyboard, but nobody really mentions it.
How much did it all cost you in the end?
Have a great day.
Hey thanks for your comment,
I don't add this information because since I buy piece by piece from China the prices can fluctuate a lot and usually you have the minimum required pieces of parts to buy, so if you will make only one keyboard it will cost more than if you were to build 5.
I would say (based on the last time I built a Corne V3 2020) that you would spend somewhere between 50-100 USD, depending on shipping prices and pieces that you already have.
You can base the price on one of those DIY Kits you can find to buy on the internet.
@@rafaeldelboni Wow I did not expect it to be this cheap. I have 0 pieces for it but I can at least use the soldering station from my school. I will try to get the parts from China as well. Thanks for the response.
Oh, one more question! When you upload the gerber files, do you upload every file listed on there or specific ones for your need? I'm so confused which files to upload since there are mutiple files listed and 2 folders, one of them containing various svg files.
Do you know anything on that? Because I tried customizing the pcb to a corne one, but it wasn't working. It only confused me.
Usually you have to upload a Gerber zip, github.com/foostan/crkbd/releases/tag/corne-cherry-v3.0.1
The link has 3 gerbers, one for the PCB github.com/foostan/crkbd/releases/download/corne-cherry-v3.0.1/corne-cherry-gerber.zip, you actually only need this to build a keyboard without any case.
The others in the list, are files if you want to build a keyboard using PCB plates as case.
If you want to customize, you need to regenerate the gerbers after, using an special software.
If this is your first time I would recommend not changing nothing and even more no unzip the zip :)
If you really want to change the PCB files use a program like KiCad and follow this steps:
jlcpcb.com/help/article/16-How-to-generate-Gerber-and-Drill-files-in-KiCad-6
Thank you
What's the thickness of your acrylic case
I think those where 3mm, but 2mm works fine as well is the same thickness of the PCB.
poderia compartilhar o arquivo da impressao a laser? to a tempos procurando as medidas e n acho
Oi, o repositório do teclado mudou muito da época que montei, mas dei uma procurada pra você e tenho quase 100% de certeza que é esse arquivo aqui:
github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/main/plates/3x6/svg/plate-cherrymx.svg
Esses arquivos são da v4, ele removeu tudo da v3 e abaixo do repo, toma cuidado
hey rafael.i'm quite curious is there any space between pcb and bottom plate?i figured your switch base was placed right against the bottom plate,am i right?will that cause some trouble?
Hey, yes there is some 7mm M2 spacers between the PCB and the bottom plate.
You can see them here
github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v3.md#mount-the-case
i just saw that 😁
is there any way to check if I soldered right the underglow leds?
I really like this troubleshooting guide from the keyboard creator:
github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-classic/doc/buildguide_en.md#troubleshooting
Keep in mind they are connected in serial, meaning you have to install them in the right sequence in order to be able to check if they are all working, luckily the underglow are the first :)
Amigo estou pesquisando ja faz 1 mes sobre esse teclado.onde baixo o arquivo do corne para imprimir o circuito impresso e as cases? Importar das lojas online esta caro demais.
Acho que aí tem tudo que vc precisa pra imprimir sua pcb e cases :)
github.com/foostan/crkbd/releases/tag/corne-cherry-v3.0.1
Cara desculpe pela burrice. Agora que vi que vc deixou o link na descrição. Apesar de tudo muito obrigado.
@@lavosier2 Não precisa se desculpar, fico feliz em ajudar. Espero que consiga montar o seu teclado, por sinal existe uma comunidade em português no Telegram se quiser falar mais sobre esse tipo de teclado: t.me/SplitMechBoardsBR
Muito obrigado... Ja wntrei
thanks for the video and link!
did you strip the wire before using it to socket pro micros and oled?
Hey, thanks for watching and the feedback! Yes, the copper wire I bought had a protective varnish layer on it, so I sanded it out until I got some good results with the continuity test in my multimeter.
@@rafaeldelboni thanks! I'll buy the blank copper wire then
nice build..can you send me your hex file?
I just used the default one you can download one here:
config.qmk.fm/#/crkbd/rev1/LAYOUT_split_3x6_3
If you interested to check my current firmware layout you can check it here:
github.com/rafaeldelboni/alphadel-crkbd-keymap
Could I add nicenano and battery to make this build wireless ?
Yes, but I suggest you search for a pcb designed for this, then you can solder a power switch for your battery, but if you don't mind you could just use some nice with the battery soldered directly on them.
I made a wireless corne video if you interested
th-cam.com/video/SL6iO4Qg8_s/w-d-xo.html
@@rafaeldelboni i watched that one but it that pcb dosnt have led, do i need to find a pcb for nice nanos with led ?
Well usually wireless pcbs builds don't have LEDs, since LEDs and batteries aren't good friends, but again you can probably just use a pair of nice!nanos and batteries with ZMK firmware in your Corne V3 build :)
Thanks so much for sharing this - great video. Can you tell me what kind of solder you're using? And the size? Looks like it's about .70mm?
Thanks for your feedback!
This is the specs of my solder in this video:
Alloy: Sn63/Pb37
Diameter: 1mm
What you mean by solder size? Are you talking about the soldering station?
I use this one:
a.aliexpress.com/_mLXy5Zf
I don't know where you live, but for me is about the same price to order the amount of components to build two cornes because the minimum parts quantity and the shipping, so I would recommend (and if you can and is the same situation for you), for the soldered components buy double quantity, then you can start building one as test.
If everything goes right you end up with a lot of experience and two keebs where you can sell one hahaha
Hi Mary I bought mine in Aliexpress, is this one:
a.aliexpress.com/_mK9S1SB
do you know if you can solder the underglow RGB parts without soldering the per-key RGB parts too?
I remember when I was building mine I did tested with only the underglow and it worked fine, you can see the pics here:
github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v3.md#solder-under-glow-leds
awesome, ty so much! :)
I like the videos!
I'm really glad you liked, I Just posted a new one :)
th-cam.com/video/weV0FkCVkLE/w-d-xo.html
Great video, but do yourself a favour and watch it at 1.5 speed! :)
Glad you liked and thanks for the feedback :)
do the diodes have to be on the same side as the leds? and also, does that mean that the switches always go on the opposite side of the side where we solder the rest of the stuff? i'm a bit confused cuz i haven't found a clear explanation of this anywhere. i'm building a corne v2 and so far i've soldered the diodes on the same side as the microcontrollers and trrs jack, now i don't know if it will work or if i should even try soldering leds.
Check my guide with images, maybe it can help you better than the video, but the diodezls, LEDs and the switch hotswaps are in the different side of the microcontroller, reset and tres connector
github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v3.md#solder-pcb-top-components
will have a look, ty!! @@rafaeldelboni
Hi, when you send the gerbere file to jlcpcb, although the preview some pcb hole didnt show but the last outcome also cut those hole ( led and pcb edge) for you ?
I never had problems with missing cuts or holes, but when I'm previewing I always see all of then in the site.
Example (sorry low res): github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v3/jlcpcb.jpg
@@rafaeldelboni Because I see this as what I see when upload, those led and some board didn't cut to hole just got the line there. :D
Muito bom
Vídeo massa, teclado lindo! Poderia indicar onde comprar os componentes?
Valeu! Na descrição do vídeo tem um link pra um documento e links dos componentes
What do you use to clean up the pcb?
Isopropyl alcohol
@@rafaeldelboni Thank you!
Pls tell me how you flashed the arduino... Im trying to flash it on qmk toolbox but its not recognized. HELPPPPPPPPP
What OS you using? I never used the QMK Toolbox, but if you are using mac/linux you could give the terminal CLI a try, I documented how I used it here:
github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v3.md#installconfigure-qmk
There is a huge community in reddit www.reddit.com/r/crkbd, be sure to post your error details like error message, OS, and parts you are using :)
Muito bom o video! Queria saber se você tem algum pcb sobrando do corne e estaria disposto a vender ele.
Opa tudo bem? Obrigado pelo feedback.
Infelizmente não tenho, mas existe um grupo de telegram de brasileiros que estão montando teclados como esse e provavelmente alguém lá vai ter algo :)
t.me/SplitMechBoardsBR
Rafael told you to solder the first led in position 1 those that go under the plate towards the table and it does not turn on when connecting. Should all be soldered to test or should one turn on?
First you need to enable leds in the firmware, after that you have to follow an specific order to debug leds, they are connected in serial so they will turn one after the other, this guide have some tips:
github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-classic/doc/buildguide_en.md#some-leds-not-turning-on
Hey Rafael is that the best soldering tip you can use to solder the components to Corne PCB? I think you used another tip in your v2.1 video
How you doing Daniel? Since I'm not a pro, I'm experimenting with the two tips I have here. Currently I'm really liking the flat tip, is working for me really well for smd components.
But ideally if you can try some while learning you will find the best for you.
@@rafaeldelboni Bro another question: you are using copper wire instead of rows of male pins 2.54, the reason is decreasing the height of Pro Micro position? But rows of male pins 2.54 can be used as well right?
@@dlopezgo9060 I user the copper to use the Arduino as a socket, if I have problem with mine I can easily replace.
You could do the same with female headers and Mill max pins, but I never find those to buy, so made the "socket" legs with copper, you could use diode legs as well.
@@rafaeldelboni I see. And do you remember which has to be the wire length inside the female?
@@dlopezgo9060 I used 0.5mm, they are a good fit, as you said you could use the male pins www.aliexpress.com/item/32803164240.html, but I don´t know if the height would work with some cases.
Leds are optional right? I dont like rgbs
Totally, not only optional, but without them this build it's 75% easier to do! :)
@@rafaeldelboni do you build an ortholinear keyboards?
@@vandertaaz9270 I built a Planck, a long time ago.
Nice video, thanks for sharing. I wish I had seen your video before starting my very first build.
What are you using for cleanup ?
Thanks for your feedback! I'm using Isopropyl alcohol to cleanup
@@rafaeldelboni Thanks a lot actually my PCBs are so dirty a was trying to find a way to clean it.
Any chance you have a crkbd for sale?
Hey hello! Thanks for the interest :)
I'm do sell some keyboards, but I'm in Brazil and I don't think the shipping will worth, but If you search in reddit you can find some to buy or people to build for you.
@@rafaeldelboni Thanks for the quick response! How much would you charge, and how much would the shipping be to Sweden? Since you buy your components from aliexpress, and make your own PCBs, I suppose you get away quite cheap. It's very possible that I'd be willing to pay the costs of the components, shipping and of course all your work.
@@johanneskazantzidis5749 Hey I added some contact info in my channel about page, reach me out using my twitter or email as you prefer.
I have some other projects in my pipeline to the beginning of 2021, but I can do a price check for you :)
Nice, what are you using for PCB cleanup?
Isopropyl alcohol :)