BAXA Disassembly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2022
- PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransmission.com/
Transtar: www.transtar1.com/
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fitzall.com/
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource.com/atec-trans...
ATSG: atsg.com/
ATRA: www.atra.com/
Fatsco: www.fatsco.net/online-store
Jaggi"s: www.jaggiimport.com/home.html
Slauson's: www.slauson-transmissionparts...
Standard Transmission & Gear: standardtransmission.com/
Wade's: www.wadetransmission.com/parts/
Bishop's: www.bishopengine.com/ - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thank you for posting this video. I'm about to switch out the transmission in our '98 Civic for our spare known good unit. The offending transmission I'm pretty sure has differential bearings that are toast. Seeing this pretty much confirms it for me. Maybe I'll be able to teardown and fix the old one for later when it comes out.
Hope it helps, thanks for watching.
I rebuilt a baxa recently watching your video and using the atsg manual. After the rebuild it has a p0740 tcc code and a shift flare on the 2-3 shift. I cleaned all valve bores with bench buddies and installed a superior shift kit. My first baxa but not my first trans rebuild. I have no clue where I messed up.
What did it come in doing and what were the codes? Who's T/C? What was the damage?
It would only shift past 2nd occasionally if I let off the throttle at at least 25mph. It would then shift to 4th and hold it for maybe 30 seconds and violently start hunting for gears. After the car was up to operating temperature it would slip to much to move the car. I cant remember what the original codes were. I do remember it had an incorrect ratio code that was recurring. The new t/c was tc reman brand/autozone. Clutches were worn but not completely burnt. Steels had some heat discoloration but not terribly. Valve body filters were particularly clogged.
More than likely the t/c came apart. Usually when they start throwing gear ratio codes the dual linear solenoid is bad. Don't buy anything but factory for that. I don't know who makes the t/c's for Autozone so I cannot say anything about them. I would deal with Precision of New Hampton, link is in the description. If you did not replace the radiator I would, and add an auxilliary cooler as well. Once the converter comes apart it plugs the radiator. You cannot flush it out, it will just bypass around it. Replace the linear solenoid first, then if the P0740 still comes back, replace the t/c.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for the replies. Do you think the t/c could have been bad out of the box? I've already replaced the linear and lockup solenoids with known good factory but used. I also hooked my computer scanner up to it and I can lock the converter with the car in park. I can hear it lock.
You still have the 2-3 flair after replacing the linear? Yes I have seen plenty of converters bad out of the box. What is the rpm drop when it is supposed to be locked up driving down the road, any?
Good video👍👍👍
Thanks
What does in correct gear ratio mean?
The computer is not seeing the calculated ratio that it expects. Usually, not always, it is calculated using the input and output speed sensors. Anything that can effect that will throw that code. Wrong gears, wrong stall in the tc, RF interference, slipping clutches, stuck valve, etc..
2001 Accord 4 cyl ATX Baxa trans problem question...about 30k miles on rebuilt trans, 200k on engine. When cold outside, trans has delayed upshifts, slips/RPM spikes, rough down shifts....just terrible shifting, even D4 Flashing if you really give it no time to warm up. After warmup, trans shifts normal. Replaced all 3 shift solenoids, no affect. Trans fluid is pink and looks fine, level is correct. Do you have any thoughts? Solving this would bring me mental Relief...even if it's not worth fixing 😅✌
Since the light is flashing there should be a code stored in the computer. Would help to know what it is. Sounds like there might be a problem with the linear solenoids. It is the solenoid that has 2 together. If you do have a problem with it don't try to replace it with anything but a factory solenoid. They are not cheap but they work properly.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I was really hoping it was the linear (that was the last solenoid I replaced after I did the other 2 first)...I removed one from a DIY auto parts yard from the same vehicle just to test. Unfortunately, it acted exactly the same with the replacement (I can't rule out that that used replacement wasn't bad too but I even tested (mine & replacement) solenoids with 12v to hear the clicking). The code was for a generic internal failure P code...nothing part specific. I hate not knowing the answer to this silly Problem 🤬😂Thanks for the reply though
@Jason Trepins what is the code
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Good question...I have a code reader w/phone app, will try to snag it again.