This has happened to me too, clutch puller was destroyed… stripped the threads. It was a substandard puller, cheap and weak metal. Friend came over with a proper old school one. Took a ton of heat also. We found that the key on the mainshaft had been mangled and jammed the clutch hub on. Had to buy a new mainshaft. Pain in the backside! Best of luck mate!
It is really frustrating, especially when the last one came off really easiliy. I really would like to find an original old school tool. If you watch the next video you will see why ;)
Feeling your pain, will be very satisfying when you get that 'ching' and it all springs apart! Leaving it under some tension and shocking it sounds like a plan. Maybe the previous rebuilder got as far as the clutch and was scuppered and stopped there, we'll see. Good to see you fighting it, feels like we're in there with you. looking forward to the next part. Good luck.
Thanks for the tips! It is always annoying that something that should be simple isn't. I wasn't happy with the quality of the tool originally, but it has worked before.
Totally understand what you’re going through! I’m also following along while I take apart a ‘72 Bonneville engine (650). I’m going to be ordering some of the specialty tools and then give everything a good soaking in PB Blaster before I attempt to go any farther. Thx for making these vids…
An impact driver works well on the clutch hub puller but don't go mad with it. If it doesn't come off straight away leave it under tension overnight and/or use heat. Don't worry about the clutch rubbers, you'll be changing them anyway.
Thanks for the advice. I haven't used an impact on it yet, but you will see how I go on in the next primary vid. I like the idea of leaving it under tension.
Rather than spraging the clutch and risking damage you can lock the crankshaft using a bar through the small ends and resting on the crankcase. For the clutch adjusters poke a small screwdriver between the spring and the adjuster to clear the pip !
Thanks for the advice. I am expecting to replace most of the clutch parts so I am being a little more cavalier with them than I should. Those pips are a nuisance in the way they they catch. I'm sure they could have come up with a much better design, but I supose they just kept going with it from the '30s :)
I will be having a stand at the Stafford show in April, showcasing my Restoration Guide, (its a free download), you will be most welcome to pop by for a chat...
These things happen, the clutch locking ring will make a big difference but as you say it does'nt bode well for when you try and get the sludge trap out, ask me how I know.....all the best, love the vids
Glad you like the vids. I am really worried about the bits that I expect to be hard, having struggled with a the things so far. Strange because some things have come apart so easily.
I have that same clutch puller. I haven't used it but I have concerns about it. I may have to get a better one when I finally have to take my clutch basket off. I really hate when an hour job becomes a 3 hour job because of random shit, like that washer that wouldn't come out. That stuff happens to me all the time. I fought with a bolt on my 76 Triumph for over an hour. It's the bolt on right side mounting plate that you can't get a wrench on no matter what you do. There's no room. Maybe you could take off the rear master cylinder to get to it, I'm not sure. I was able to jam a flat head screw driver down into the crevice and put pressure on the nut a little at a time as I unscrewed from accessible side. Do you know that bolt I'm talking about? It's near the right side foot peg.
I think I am just being a little unlucky here. I have used the tool to take other clutches off without an issue before. I do know that bolt, well. I am surprised you got it off the way you describe, it is almost completely hidden by the rear brake master cylinder. If you look at my video about stripping the frame, you will see it gets a special mention!!! :)
I can't see how a clutch nut tool could be used instead of a clutch hub pullernfor this job. Which then leads on to the drill not being useful. But thanks for the suggestion.
Grease up all the threads? I've been waving my hands around, shouting at the screen for the last ten minutes. Beat on it!!! Then he shocked it with the hammer and chisel and I calmed down a bit. Then I'm on the edge of my seat when the cheater bar went on the wrench -- I've twisted up a few of those! Beat on it!! Shock it!! Glad he didn''t bruise his hand by pounding on the wrench. It's a crying shame the hub can't stay in service by filing off those ridges but that's the unfortunate thing about clutch hubs -- just a tiny bit of metal loss and the whole part gets scrapped.
Thanks for your encouragement! Wait for the next clutch episode, I do take the shock advice seriously, but I wont spoil it for you. I think I am going to be in for a full clutch replacement, which will be expensive.
I shared your pain, I was waiting for the Allen key to bend. I wish you good luck with it, we've all been there. I look forward to your next one.👍
Fingers crossed! I can't say I am impressed with these cheap special tools, but there doesn't seem to be any quality ones available.
This has happened to me too, clutch puller was destroyed… stripped the threads. It was a substandard puller, cheap and weak metal. Friend came over with a proper old school one. Took a ton of heat also. We found that the key on the mainshaft had been mangled and jammed the clutch hub on. Had to buy a new mainshaft. Pain in the backside! Best of luck mate!
It is really frustrating, especially when the last one came off really easiliy. I really would like to find an original old school tool. If you watch the next video you will see why ;)
Feeling your pain, will be very satisfying when you get that 'ching' and it all springs apart!
Leaving it under some tension and shocking it sounds like a plan.
Maybe the previous rebuilder got as far as the clutch and was scuppered and stopped there, we'll see.
Good to see you fighting it, feels like we're in there with you. looking forward to the next part. Good luck.
Thanks for the tips! It is always annoying that something that should be simple isn't. I wasn't happy with the quality of the tool originally, but it has worked before.
Totally understand what you’re going through! I’m also following along while I take apart a ‘72 Bonneville engine (650). I’m going to be ordering some of the specialty tools and then give everything a good soaking in PB Blaster before I attempt to go any farther. Thx for making these vids…
The rusty one in the picture showing me using the tool before was a '72. The tool worked fine that time.
An impact driver works well on the clutch hub puller but don't go mad with it. If it doesn't come off straight away leave it under tension overnight and/or use heat. Don't worry about the clutch rubbers, you'll be changing them anyway.
Thanks for the advice. I haven't used an impact on it yet, but you will see how I go on in the next primary vid. I like the idea of leaving it under tension.
Rather than spraging the clutch and risking damage you can lock the crankshaft using a bar through the small ends and resting on the crankcase. For the clutch adjusters poke a small screwdriver between the spring and the adjuster to clear the pip !
Thanks for the advice. I am expecting to replace most of the clutch parts so I am being a little more cavalier with them than I should. Those pips are a nuisance in the way they they catch. I'm sure they could have come up with a much better design, but I supose they just kept going with it from the '30s :)
I will be having a stand at the Stafford show in April, showcasing my Restoration Guide, (its a free download), you will be most welcome to pop by for a chat...
These things happen, the clutch locking ring will make a big difference but as you say it does'nt bode well for when you try and get the sludge trap out, ask me how I know.....all the best, love the vids
Glad you like the vids. I am really worried about the bits that I expect to be hard, having struggled with a the things so far. Strange because some things have come apart so easily.
There are two different pullers. They are similar but have different pitch threads. Been there, done that!
I believe this was ther right one for the T140, but I will try to ensure that I order a replacement that should have the right pitch.
You may like to see this bud. BSA A70L - Engine Part 3 - Primary Drive Strip Completion
BSA Power Set (Angus D. Campbell)
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I have that same clutch puller. I haven't used it but I have concerns about it. I may have to get a better one when I finally have to take my clutch basket off.
I really hate when an hour job becomes a 3 hour job because of random shit, like that washer that wouldn't come out. That stuff happens to me all the time. I fought with a bolt on my 76 Triumph for over an hour. It's the bolt on right side mounting plate that you can't get a wrench on no matter what you do. There's no room. Maybe you could take off the rear master cylinder to get to it, I'm not sure. I was able to jam a flat head screw driver down into the crevice and put pressure on the nut a little at a time as I unscrewed from accessible side. Do you know that bolt I'm talking about? It's near the right side foot peg.
I think I am just being a little unlucky here. I have used the tool to take other clutches off without an issue before.
I do know that bolt, well. I am surprised you got it off the way you describe, it is almost completely hidden by the rear brake master cylinder. If you look at my video about stripping the frame, you will see it gets a special mention!!! :)
Yeh you need to get yourself a clutch nut tool, and even better, one that fits in a drill :D
I can't see how a clutch nut tool could be used instead of a clutch hub pullernfor this job. Which then leads on to the drill not being useful. But thanks for the suggestion.
@SPANNERRASH ??? for the clutch nuts, not your home made tool
I enjoy the videos! Any update on the head removal from the barrels?
Not yet, I am still throwing a whole load of patience at it. This engine is starting to be really frustrating.
@SPANNERRASHthe pistons in my 650 are also stuck. Gonna let them soak in PB Blaster for a while longer before giving it some more wacks…
Kroil oil works much better than PB blaster for stuck pistons, etc.
Grease up all the threads? I've been waving my hands around, shouting at the screen for the last ten minutes. Beat on it!!! Then he shocked it with the hammer and chisel and I calmed down a bit. Then I'm on the edge of my seat when the cheater bar went on the wrench -- I've twisted up a few of those! Beat on it!! Shock it!! Glad he didn''t bruise his hand by pounding on the wrench. It's a crying shame the hub can't stay in service by filing off those ridges but that's the unfortunate thing about clutch hubs -- just a tiny bit of metal loss and the whole part gets scrapped.
Thanks for your encouragement! Wait for the next clutch episode, I do take the shock advice seriously, but I wont spoil it for you. I think I am going to be in for a full clutch replacement, which will be expensive.
Belt drive conversion going on Santa's shopping list?
Anything you need a special tool for usually is the result of bad design 😂
That tool hasn't been case hardened..