E-6 Film Developing for the Jobo
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- This video is about E-6 (color slide; color reversal; transparency) Film Developing for the Jobo using the 6-bath method.
Video Outline
1. Introduction - Why process your own film
2. Chemical safety - How to protect yourself (1:40)
3. Chemical container tips (3:11)
4. Mixing of chemistry - How to prepare 10L batches (7:11)
5. Summary of E-6 Steps - processing times (11:44)
6. See the Jobo in action - time lapse (12:10)
7. Results (23:49)
8. Resources - a list of references from purchasing chemicals to Jobo operation (25:17)
I get my chemicals from: www.southpoint...
Follow up video (1 year later): • E6 Film Developing - A...
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www.tonysantophotography.com
Occasionally I shot b/w and color positive film, but these occasions are so rare that I use lab in Moscow.
I fondly remember from my childhood how my father managed to develop not only b/w but also color slide film in our bathroom back in Soviet Union. And he could only use slide projector to show us his beautiful photos from trips across Soviet Union, Central Asia, Uzbekistan etc 'cause there was no easy way to print photos from his film. It was magic time when your turn off lights in the living room, invite friends and spend sometime watching huge photos on white sheet hanging from the ceiling.
Now 30 years later thanks to flatbed scanners we can scan these photos to PC and print them out. They're very beautiful, vivid in color compared to bleached out color photos printed in 80s.
I remember the family slide shows. You're right, they were magic times. There was something really good about watching those slides with the family around.
Мой батя тоже кучу ORWO слайдов сделал, как раз сканирую все это добро :)
Жаль, что пленку такого простого обращаемого процесса заменили Е-6
+Nick Seaney Nick, I apologize for giving off the impression that I use 1L of chemistry every time I process film. The amount of chemistry used is based upon the drum and number of rolls/sheet film I process. Five sheets of transparency 8x10 film requires 630ml of chemistry. The only time I use 1L of chemistry is when I process five 8x10 sheets of black and white film which requires more chemistry owing to the dilution. If you take a look back at the video you'll see an information bar that gives specific values for the chemistry I use in my process. Also, Jobo has great pamphlets that describe the volumes needed for each tank and type of film on their website. Thanks for watching! Tony
Hi Tony and thanks for the video! I read your comment about 630ml of chemistry for 5 sheets of 8x10. That tells me you are able to get 40 sheets from 5Litres one time use. Have you reused the chemicals ? If i'm able to squeeze 80 sheets from a 5litre kit that would be amazing!
This video is like a time-warp! I used to process my own E6 in a JOBO until a few years ago, when the chemistry became hard to get (Even C41 is problematic now). I watched the R3 and Ilfochrome print processes I used disappear, and with the discontinuation of Ektachrome, I thought it was all over. I still don't know who sells all this stuff you use (I'm amazed when something is manufactured, but nobody can find it to buy it, and then they discontinue, because there was "too little interest"). Maybe it'll be like vinyl records; a small but passionate fan base will keep it in a niche production. And to see JOBO back in the analog processing market: I'm astonished!
I use southpointphoto.com. However, I've noticed that freestyle photographic will have the 5 L kit available in December; which has been available in Europe for quite some time.
Wowowow o you deserve all you achieve , your effort, your work , thought, and knowledge !
To make economical use of the 6 bath E-6 process in the volumes now offered, you have to shoot a very large amount of film, much more that done by most E-6 users. The E-6 3-bath kits seem to compromise the process for user convenience, but at a quality compromise which never gets addressed. That silence may result from the manufacturers' unwillingness to admit how far they stray from E-6 standards, or it may be that there are not enough folks who care. I'd like to see someone like Tony, who uses the full 6 bath process, shoot some test film and process tests in both systems to show just how much difference there really is. I cannot (will not) do this myself because I use a 6-bath E-6 process I compound myself as needed. This allows me to dial in color balance and contrast to some extent as I see fit, but it also makes my personal experience unique and not comparable to commercial products in any useful way..
Thanks for stopping by my channel Randall!
Hi Randall, I have just started making E6 chemistry from raw salts/ chemicals, can I get in touch with you by e mail for tips/ help, promise not to be a nuisance thanks
Great video, Tony! Very informative!
Thanks Jay!
Excellent, excellent work. Very thorough and very high level of attention to detail. Congratulations on your excellent results! Keep the video's coming.
Thanks J Bek!
Tony, great work! I learned a lot from your meticulous process, similar to you my local lab has failed me. So I'm looking to develop my own E-6 and C41 film too. The Jobo machine is awesome but to much for me, the Patterson tanks will have to do for my medium format rolls. Thanks for the great video.
Wow! Amazing process. Just B+W for me but I get your comment at the start about unreliable labs and being in charge of the whole process yourself.
Thanks Bernard! Please be sure to check out my other developing videos! I appreciate your support! Tony
Great demonstration, very clear and detailed, thanks.
It makes a lot of sense for large format photography, which is still owned by chemical films.
I certainly share your concerns regarding the reliability of lab developing services nowadays.
Cheers.
Thank you for your kind words and for taking the time to watch! I appreciate your support! Tony
Sadly local labs don't process these formats but as far as 35 and 120 formats go they come back impeccable in more or less a week and at the very reasonable price of 7 to 8 euros for strip developing/framed slide film.
Great job Tony. Very informative; keep up the outstanding work.
Thank you kindly Glenn! I appreciate your support! Tony
really made all this super easy to understand! thank you so much! wish i could try this for myself, sadly i'll have to stick to black and white for the time being
Joe Howard Your welcome! Thanks for watching!
wow you got me back in my darkroom thanks for that tony your work is amazing!
Dawnita, that's wonderful to hear! Thanks so much for the kind words! Have fun shooting and developing film!
TERRIFIC¡¡¡ THANKS A LOT
Thanks for the kind words Riccardo! Tony
Is the fact that the tanks are clear instead of opaque effect the life span of the chemicals?
Very informative and detailed! Thank you!
+Omar Mashed Thanks Omar! I appreciate your support! Tony
Thanks Tony - very helpful, informative video. I'm getting back into film after 20+ years of digital only. I'm in the process of reviving my Jobo CPP2 from the 1980's and it's almost ready to go. Re: the storage containers you keep your chemicals in I'd always thought they should be dark, as not let light in. That would help keep them fresh longer. Since yours are translucent I assume you don't agree. Is that an old wives tale?
Clyde, I'm glad you are rediscovering film! Some chemicals are light sensitive and degrade more rapidly if exposed to strong light sources. I'm not concerned about light sensitivity because I typically use up my chemistry in 2-3 days; it has never been an issue for me. If you were to store these chemicals for the long-term, then I would advise using the opaque glass bottles. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching! Tony
I have been interested in photography since I was a boy 60 years ago. I started out with a Brownie box camera and now use a point-and-shoot digital. I saw a few comments disparaging the disposable cameras, but at this point in my life, they would suit me fine. The rub is the processing. As I recall, Kodak sold E-6 kits that would process, say, 4-6 35mm rolls. Is there a source for these smaller processing kits? Not only is using what you use overkill, it also is not cost effective in that the chemistry would go bad before I or anyone else would be able to use it up. I envy you for what you do, but for me, just having a photographic souvenir of where I've been is enough.
Bill Chambers Great points! I save my film up and process 2-3 times a year to make it cost effective. Sadly, the Kodak kits are no longer made. Fuji film Hunt still makes a smaller kit, but it is not available in the United States.
When we see people like Tony then we realize how lazy we all have become by this digital systems. I am strongly looking for restarting at least my b/w films in chemical seeing this.
Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment! Let us know how things go! Tony
A couple of questions you might be able to address..1) Have you used the "floating lid" variety of chemistry cylinders? I am interested in their ability to keep out air. Possibly combined with ARGON (heavy) they maybe appropriate?.My previous method of storage was... 1) A reduction of all of the concentrates to smaller portions. 2) Squeezing.. the bottles to move all of the chemistry to the top. 3) Vacuum pack all of the smaller bottles into Food Saver style bags. 4) refrigerate.This is a long process (but excellent for life of chemistry) BUT considering another as an alternative as it is a process that takes more than a couple of hours no matter what size 3 bath kit one selects. Not sure the 6 bath is going to be any more "fun"2) Concerning the CPP2 (I use the same) When do you start and stop your timing for the critical steps of the 6 bath E6 process? I have seen ...as soon as the chemistry is assumed to be making contact with the film AND when the pour is completed. Your best method?Have you actually timed your fill and dump for the quantity of the chemistry used.?3) The mixed chemistry is another thing ...but how long have you been able to retain the concentrate after first opening the chemistry to use?Thank you for any insight you can provide.
Tim, thank you for sharing your process of chemistry preservation with us. I haven't experimented with long-term preservation because I typically use up my working solutions in a matter of 2-3 days. For timing each step in the development, I start my clock during the pour. Quite honestly, the 5-15 second potential difference won't make any noticeable impact on the film. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching! Tony
What was their reason for cross processing it? Idk how they manage that.
It was an error on their part. The lab manager had no other explanation other than one of his employees simply put the film in the wrong chemistry. The employee didn't pay attention to what he/she was doing. Thanks for watching! Tony
Prime Studios: In short, the containers should not pose a problem unless exposed to direct sunlight. Fuji film ships all of their E-6 chemistry in transparent containers packaged in cardboard boxes. Without any measures taken to prevent oxidation of the developers, I have found that my chemistry will last approximately 25 days with my setup (ambient temperature = 70-79 degrees F; no sunlight).
COMO CONSIGO COMPRAR UMA CÂMERA DESSA?
Leo, eu gosto de Intrepid Camera Co. Obrigado pela visita! Tony
Hey Tony - Awesome work and process, I love that you're still doing this. I'm wondering if you've costed this system per roll, and how close it is cost wise to running the system replenished?
Thx
Brian
brian aderer Thanks Brian! I appreciate the support! It really depends on your volume. For me, my yearly expense on film developing + shipping was ~$500-700 per year; that's for sheet film & roll film. If I run my film twice a year, my cost is the same because you get enough chemical to mix two batches of 10L each and you still have sealed chemicals remaining. If I process more than twice a year, the price goes down significantly despite having to purchase additional color developer replenisher (~$50 for 10L x 2). I get my chemicals from southpointphoto.com; I'm sure they could provide you with a quote with current prices.Here's what I paid the last time I purchased:
1st Developer Replenisher (10 L x 4) $80.47
Reversal Bath & Replenisher (8L x 10) $69.12
Color Developer Replenisher (10L x 2) $50.34
Conditioner Plus & Replenisher (10L x 4) $41.88
Bleach Replenisher (5L x 2) $94.09
Fixer & Replenisher (10L x 4) $43.10
Rinse Plus & Replenisher (10L x 12) $51.74
First Developer Starter (1 Gallon) $53.64
Color Developer Starter (1 Gallon) $84.51
Bleach Starter (1 Gallon) $58.27
I haven't considered running my system replenished because I don't shoot enough film consistently to justify it. I tend to accumulate film at various times throughout the year; its sporadic for me.
Hope this helps,
Tony
The works are amazing
Thank you my friend! Tony
Great, thank you!
Do you find that the 6 bath is really worth it? I'm using the Tetenal 3 bath kit and get (from what I can tell) great results. Also, how do you find your containers are preserving your chemicals? I'm using glass bottles and "Bloxygen" and can really extend their shelf life well past the 6 month mark.
Charles, in short, yes. While I have not seen any data to support this, some have questioned the long term stability of the developed film so I prefer not to leave that opportunity open.
I just finished my experiment with the prepared solutions to determine just how long I could get before the chemistry spoiled. Without any measures taken to prevent oxidation of the developers, I have found that my chemistry will last approximately 25 days with my setup (ambient temperature = 70-79 degrees F; no sunlight). I spend quite a bit of time shooting so I allow about 25 rolls of 120 and 60 sheets of 4x5 film to accumulate before I develop. So that works out to be about 3-4 times per year for me and works well for my chemistry time-frame. If you need to develop more often, then it sounds like the setup you have may be a better solution. Thanks!
Tony Santo Photography, LLC I used Kodak Single Use E6 Chemistry exclusively until they quit making it. From it I got the same results as you, about 4 weeks of shelf life before there was noticeable degradation in the quality. I haven't developed E6 in a couple of years but I just purchased the Tetenal kit from Freestyle and some formalin to mix up my own stabilizer.
Those are beautiful photographs! I love the colours of E-6. For now I've done the three bath kit in a Paterson 4 and the results seemed pretty good but the Jobo makes the six bath look even easier than that. I am curious if a nitrogen 'cap' in unused but opened concentrate could extend the life to that of unopened concentrate by getting rid of the oxygen.
+dale116dot7 You are absolutely correct! The Jobo makes this process extremely easy. The challenge for me was putting all the information together in one place! That's why I decided to produce a video in case anyone else needed help. I haven't tried nitrogen, but theoretically it should extend the life of the chemistry susceptible to oxidation. Thanks for watching! I appreciate the support! Sincerely, Tony
The Jobo didn't rotate my drum anywhere near as fast as the drum in this video. The high speed agitation of your drum seems likely to cause granular migration on the film. Are you sure there isn't something wrong or mis-adjusted on your Jobo?
Moses, The entire developing process takes approximately 30 minutes. While I wanted to give viewers a sense of that time commitment, I increased the speed at which you watch the video during stagnate pieces such as watching the drum rotate. If you look closely, you'll see the timer I use rotate through numbers very quickly. In addition, you'll see the drum rotation speed change when I slow the video back down to normal when I change out the chemistry. At minute 12:24 I also discuss the appropriate rotation speed to use. Thank you for watching my video! Respectfully, Tony
Very informative. I have developed a handfull of Velvia several years ago. I am getting ready to develop again. I bought a Unicolor rapid E6 kit and there is first developer, color developer and Blix. No 'stabilizer' like I am accustomed to in C41 kits. Is photoflow an appropriate addition to processing after final wash? I am also reading something about anti fungal as well? Any advice or experience you can share? Thank you.
Douglas, Thanks for stopping by my channel! The stabilizer used in the 6-bath method is called Rinse Plus. I believe that the kit you mentioned contains some color preservatives. I am not sure how the film responds to aging from using the 3-bath kits. Tony
Very well done. Thanks.
How well does the chemistry hold up in the clear containers? Any issues with reduced shelf life from being exposed to the light?
PS I love your labeling process.
Thanks Dale! I appreciate the support. Please see below under a comment to Charles about the chemistry longevity.
the silver can be recovered & process into solid silver stock. how stable will the film be 30yrs later without shifting colors.
Those are great points! Thanks for watching! Tony
@@tonysantophotography e-6 that I shot in the mid to late 1980s shifted over time. the only 2 that looks like I shot then yesterday are fujichrome & Kodachrome. every other brand failed.
Do you make prints as well? I've been working with RA4 prints (from color negatives) for a while and occasionally pick up some long forgotten Ilfochrome from eBay. I am very pleased with the results I get, but the original chemistry (P-30) is hard to come by and I've heard that you can easily substitute it with B/W chemistry, but never found out how.. Any experience with this?
That's impressive that you are making your own color negative prints! Unfortunately I don't have experience with color negative printing in the darkroom. Sorry I couldn't help. Thanks for your support! Tony
Hi Tony, interesting method, thanks for sharing. I've been using 3 bath tetenal kits here in the UK and had not considered using a 6 bath system with my ATL1500.
One question though, your method appears to rely on the supplied whole containers being filled to the correct volumes - I assume you've measured these for prior batches and are confident that this is correct?
Ben, that's a very good point. I've always assumed the volumes to be correct. Thankfully, to date that hasn't played a role. Thanks for your support! Tony
Excellent video!! Thanks for posting it. It gives me new hope.
I started 10 years ago with Tetenal 3-bath in a Jobo ATL-500, then moved to Kodak 6-bath kits in an ATL-1000. But the Kodak kits have since been discontinued, and Fuji 6-bath kits are not available in the U.S. I've got a large collection of undeveloped film that I must either send out (expensive and risky) or go back to the 3-bath in the Jobo. The chromes I developed in 3-bath Tetenal 10 years ago still look fantastic. But 10 years is not 50 or 100 years--so who knows.
The day job here is business executive. So my photography is strictly as a non-pro, overly invested enthusiast. I'm shooting 120/220 rolls in a Fuji GX680, but I'm just not shooting the volume necessary to consume 10L of solution before it goes bad. Is it possible to mix 5L batches without running into shelf-life issues on the unmixed chems?
Barry Sanford Thanks Barry! It is possible to mix up smaller batches of chemistry but then you are left with opened bottles of concentrate. I have not personally tested the time-limit that FujiFilm reports but here's what's in their technical bulletins for OPENED containers of chemical concentrates: 1st Developer Starter = 6 months; 1st Developer Replenisher = 4 weeks; Reversal Bath = 2 weeks; Color Developer Starter = 6 months; Color Developer Replenisher Part A & B = 8 weeks; Conditioner Plus & Replenisher = 4 weeks; Bleach Starter = 12 months; Bleach Replenisher = 8 weeks; Universal C-41 & Pro6 Fixer = 8 weeks; Rinse Plus = 8 weeks. Here are a few tips I picked up from Art Yockel of Southpoint Photo: "Developers - If they look like a Coors or Budweiser they are still good; you can mix developer in smaller sizes than 10L (2.64G). Whatever you don’t use from the bottle you must remove all oxygen from that bottle. This goes for the chemical and for a mix of replenisher. The best and safest way to do this, I have been told, is to replace the air with glass marbles in the bottle. Fill the bottle up till there is no more air and screw the cap back on. Bleach and Conditioner - with a pump for a small aquarium with hose, you pump air into the chemistry and this will extend the life not for very long but maybe a few rolls. Everything you’ll want to keep in the dark and cool if possible and closed tightly".
Tony Santo Photography, LLC Thanks again Tony for the input.
fantastic video. I hope in the future you show how to develop kodachrome
Viz muñiz If Tony doesn't mind, i can answer this. Kodachrome was an EXTREMELY COMPLEX film. It consisted of 3 or 4 layers, and as i recall, each layer had to be processed separately. In addition the black coating had to be removed, which added to the complexity. Because of its complexity, it was never considered by Hollywood and was limited to amateur use. Tony is great, but I don't think that even he could process Kodachrome.
Bill Chambers amateur use???? The gigantic icons of photography shot on this film. What the hell are you taking about? Sure it’s a long process but it was totally worth it. Kodachrome gave fantastic colors and tones, unmatched with any other film stock. And I don’t know what Hollywood has to do with any of this??? We’re talking about photographic still film, not motion picture film!
Great process you have setup there! How much film to you develop in one tank? Perhaps I missed this, but it looked like you were developing a 4x5 sheet of film then I saw a bunch of panoramas at the end - was that shot on 6x12 or 6x17 sized 120mm MF film?
My Jobo expert drum holds 5 sheets of film up to an 8x10 size. I have several other tanks for roll film that hold between 1-4 rolls of film; 35mm, 120, or 220. Thanks for the support!
I have a Dayi 6x17 film holder for my 4x5 view camera that accepts 120 roll film.
Tony Santo That sounds great, I'm shooting on a Fuji G617 now but would like to have the ground-glass WYSIWYG reference for composition. I thought a 5x7-inch view camera was needed for 6x17cm roll backs? I guess not - but is there some cropping then? www.bhcamera.us/dayi617back.php
bwvids The Dayi film holder is specifically designed to fit a 4x5 graflok type back. It includes thin black outs to narrow the image circle to 6x12 or 6x14, however I never use them so the image size I use is 6x17cm. I typically use a 150mm lens that allows me to use plenty of movements without problems or any vignetting. I have used a 90mm lens with the back but in low-light instances there is significant vignetting of the left and right sides of the image and no room for camera movements; that may just be a limitation of my lens/setup. Occasionally, I'll use a 210mm lens but that crops the right & left side of the images by about 2 cm. All-in-all I am very pleased with the back and it expands my capabilities without taking up much space in my backpack.
great video, I'm into 4x5 (beginner), good to see color developing, and the chemicals used, but I notice you don't use the "tipping" handle on the machine, you pick the tank up by the 'wet' end-why? you've just got your hands wet and also, if you need to adjust the jobo all the controls are electronic!, shock hazard. just pointing it out to you, good developing and stay safe!
Andy, that's a great question. My copy of the Jobo was missing an end cap where the edge of the drum sits so it was a bit unstable. I ended up bending a piece of solid steel and inserting it into the hollow tubes of the existing lift to make a handle and strengthen the lift. The handle added extra weight and when combined with an expert drum plus chemistry put a significant amount of pressure on the original handle, which makes me uncomfortable using it as the lift point. I actually feel like it is easier to just use my customized handle. Thanks for the concern regarding the shock hazard; I certainly would not recommend commingling water with electronics.
Great video but extremely surprised by the amount of waste in this method. You're one-shotting 1000mL of chemical at a time?? That's enough to do 12 rolls of 35mm. How many large format sheets does that produce?
Remember that 4 sheets of 4x5 film is the equivalent of one 36 exp roll of 35mm. The Jobo expert drum he is using can process quite a sheets of 4x5 at one time. (Don't use it so ?? exactly how many.) It is probable that the solution volume requirement of the Jobo system requires more than the minimum quantity required by film area. Mostly though, the idea that one liter of 3 bath kit chemistry can do 12 rolls of 35mm comes from the maker's information for reuse of the chemistry, which in turn assumes that you accept a noticeable degree of color degradation as the chemistry is reused. Here, he's using everything one-shot, no reuse, for maximum image quality.
i am Developed out the photos in the JOBO in shorts.
Hello! Great video! I contacted SouthPoint and copy and pasted the list of chemicals and prices you left in one of the other comments on here, and hopefully they will get back to me with an invoice and updated prices. Thanks for the recommendation on that! I'm also curious, what is the handle you use to dump out the liquid each time? My Jobo CPA-2 doesn't have such a handle to the right of where the drum would be, it just has the traditional handle to the left (which I'm told can break somewhat easily with more than 1200-1500ml of liquid in the tank at a time, if you are not gentle with it). If it is some kid of custom handle you made, would you please tell me how to make one? Thanks!
Dan, The handle I use is a home-made one; It's made out of tubular steel that I bent into a "U". My Jobo is also missing the plastic "handle" piece where I am lifting the drum so this gives it more stability and is easier to empty. Any home improvement store will have these "rods" of steel. Thank you for watching the video! I appreciate the support! Tony
music is too high volume can barely listen to voice and is distracting.
what happens when you develop a properly exposed film in e-6 chemistry slightly longer than the recommended time?
Great question! Shortening or lengthening the developing time of the 1st developer affects the density, contrast, maximum density, and fog of the film. Changes in developing time for the color developer affects the color balance, contrast, minimum and maximum density, and evenness of the development. These are the two most critical steps. Although, shortened reversal bath times may lead to incomplete reversal of the image as well. Hope this helps, Tony
thanks for the explanation tony. How do i make the colors pop?
If you shoot Velvia, the film does all the work for you as long as you shoot something colorful. Paying attention to the latitude of the film and lighting is where I recommend placing your efforts for maximizing color. Thanks for watching! Tony
A quick question......... Why are you using all those chemicals when you can purchase a kit? It's so easy to use without having all that bulk!
Iain
Lain, the process shown in this video is the 6 bath method that professional labs use. There are "hobby" kits available that use a 3-bath method that work just fine and make it much easier to develop. However, the long-term stability of the film after processing has been questioned using these types of kits. I haven't seen any data to support or refute this intimation but I don't want to risk losing my work after all the effort at capturing the images. Thanks for watching!
There are 5L kits of these chemicals available outside of the United States but none of those companies will ship to the U.S.
+Tony Santo Freestyle now carries the Fuji-Hunt 6X E6 kit. I believe the stabilizer in this kit no longer contains formaldehyde. I was able to import the kit into Canada using Worldwide Customs Brokers to get it shipped. Most of the mixed chemicals are supposed to last about 6 weeks according to the mixing/instruction sheet. It looks like a pretty easy kit to use.
+dale116dot7 I believe Freestyle began shipping these kits around January of 2016. The chemicals are exactly the same as the ones I used in this video to mix up the 10L batches. Unfortunately, formaldehyde is still present in the pre-bleach step. It was moved from later on to earlier in the process to minimize the exposure risk for the technician. I have a follow-up video that looks at the cost and viability of the chemicals if you are interested: th-cam.com/video/WwTMUwhoiuw/w-d-xo.html.
Thanks for watching! Tony
I don't see any formaldehyde in any of the MSDS for the 5L kit, though I still use a formaldehyde-rated respirator, apron, face shield, and appropriate gloves. I feel much better with all of the safety gear on. I've run maybe 15 rolls of 135 E6 film (Velvia and some slightly-expired Ektachrome) through my (newly acquired) Jobo and I think the clarity of the slides are a bit better and definitely more consistent than the three-bath kit and Paterson tank. I also use the chemistry one-shot and it looks like I should be able to do 30 or so rolls. With importation fees, it is marginal on cost when compared with sending the film out but I can process the film on the same day as shooting instead of waiting for two weeks for my slides. One thing I found is that loading film into the Jobo reels was just a bit harder than the Paterson, but then I trimmed the film edges with a couple of small 45 degree cuts by the perforations and the film slips into the reels very easily without binding at all.
TOTAL IMMERSION: There are to few willing to invest all for their passion.
There are many content with disposable cameras and photomat.
There are those discerning that see and feel the difference.
Who leaves the table more satisfied? TRUE art endures, the rest blows away.
If anyone offers you a job as a audio engineer....stick with photography.
+Bob Leviathan Ha Ha! I'd be the first to acknowledge that I had some trouble with the audio in this video. Some portions are monaural. In subsequent videos, this problem has been solved. I hope that the audio didn't detract you from your viewing pleasure. Tony
Hello , do you reuse the Chemicals ?
No. I only do one-shot processing. Thanks for watching! Tony
thank you , where can i bye these chems ?
Tasos, I get my chemicals from www.southpointphoto.com. Ask for Sean Souri and please let him know that I referred you. Thanks for watching! Tony
what about c41?
I may be doing a video on that in the near future. Thanks, Tony
why don't you use the handle
+edmundo oliver I find it more comfortable using my adapted handle for the height of the table where my Jobo sits. Thanks for watching! Tony
AQUI NO BRASIL NÃO TEM
Como?
Not septic tank safe, at all
Nicholas, that's a very good point. Thank you. Tony
Terrific, thanks a lot¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ Greetings from Méjico
Gracias Riccardo!