Really? I also bought a pair of preloaded struts and shocks. I wasn’t sure how to do the shocks so I found and followed your video. You aren’t kidding about how difficult that one bolt is on the shock mounting plate. I almost bent the head of a box end wrench to fit around that lip but I put it back just like you did. Thanks for putting up this video, I found it helpful.
Just did this on my daughter's 2010 Fusion....what a pain in the ass. The lower shock bolts were rusted so bad in the shocks I had to cut them with a grinder. I could not get a swivel on the forward shock mount bolts either...luckily I had a ratcheting wrench that helped a little but those were still the most time consuming part of the job. Thanks for the video.
15 Ford Fusion SE 2.5 L How can you tell if strut is bad ? I took severe hit on drivers side front wheel and CV axle , lower control arm and the inner tie rod was damaged need replacing . The strut looks fine but some say the strut is likely shot and needs replacing . Took it to this shop yesterday and hopefully start working on it Monday . Some shops sell you on things you don't need
I used a Craftsman 14mm 3/8 inch socket with a universal adapter along with a 20 inch extension to get to the top plate bolt that was above the rear axle on my 2010 Fusion. Came out easy once I had the correct angle. There was no clearance for 1/2 inch sockets. Thanks for the video. And yes, it is a pain in the butt. I’m going to replace the lower ball joints next. Nothing like disconnecting the steering wheel U joint and dropping the subframe to remove the inner control arm bolts. I just need to keep thinking of all the money I’m saving when I’m cussing out the engineer that came up with this suspension lol.
You don't need to remove the steering wheel shaft or drop the entire subframe. Remove and loosen a few bolts by the sub-frame bracket and use a pry bar to create space to remove the bolt. th-cam.com/video/dfAOxHLSqCo/w-d-xo.html
Mainly we were hearing rear end noises going over bumps. I also placed call my weight on each side of the trunk lid. As I let go, there was too much bounce.
This is a great video! Thanks for uploading it! I have a question. I also have a 2012 Ford Fusion that I suspect the shocks on the rear need to be replaced.the driver side rear tire is cupping on the inner edge of the tire. Do you think that's a sign that the shocks need to be replaced? Or is it something else you think?
I'm not sure what you mean by cupping but if your tires are not symmetrical and one side is closer/drooping more than the other, that's usually your shocks that have gone bad.
I have the 2012 Fusion too. Both my rear tires have the cupping. The shop said I needed struts. So I guess all this time they meant the shocks. I do my own work but I’m disappointed about hearing how hard it is to access the top 3 bolts on these
So today I made the mistake of doing this job again….and now I’m completely screwed…I did one side with not many issue….but on the drivers side the lower shock bolt is completely frozen in place. I got the nut off, but the bolt it self is completely stuck…like half way out and I cannot put it back in or move it whatsoever. The top bolts are off…but I have tried a hammer..my impact wrench which cannot do a thing to move it and it’s a good wrench….rust breaker….a breaker bar can’t move it….nothing will move this bolt even the slightest….may have to cut it somehow, with out damaging the car frame….so freakin annoyed today, been working at this for like 8 hours….and right now have no car. This is not my first shock replacement,, but I can tell you it will be my last
I have 12 fusion and am dreading doing this as mine has rust on it. Did you try jacking up the lower control arm a little or letting in hang and jacking up the pinch weld area?
@@Scott-ms5bb Hello, yes, I did....but I ended up having to cut the shock mount and the bolt. Didnt have any other way to do it...got a good metal cutting blade for my sawzall
I have attempted this twice and gave up both times. I cannot get to that bold for the shock mount by the control arm no matter what I have tried. This is the worst engineering design I have come across so far.
I assume you figured it out, but for others who haven't, Use a 14mm deep offset box end wrench to remove that bolt. There's no need to remove the upper control arm. th-cam.com/video/Y7qFbM8f67M/w-d-xo.html
Really? I also bought a pair of preloaded struts and shocks. I wasn’t sure how to do the shocks so I found and followed your video. You aren’t kidding about how difficult that one bolt is on the shock mounting plate. I almost bent the head of a box end wrench to fit around that lip but I put it back just like you did. Thanks for putting up this video, I found it helpful.
Just did this on my daughter's 2010 Fusion....what a pain in the ass. The lower shock bolts were rusted so bad in the shocks I had to cut them with a grinder. I could not get a swivel on the forward shock mount bolts either...luckily I had a ratcheting wrench that helped a little but those were still the most time consuming part of the job. Thanks for the video.
Where did you find the bolts that you have cut
@@agamsingh2582 The dealer
15 Ford Fusion SE 2.5 L How can you tell if strut is bad ? I took severe hit on drivers side front wheel and CV axle , lower control arm and the inner tie rod was damaged need replacing . The strut looks fine but some say the strut is likely shot and needs replacing . Took it to this shop yesterday and hopefully start working on it Monday . Some shops sell you on things you don't need
Anyone have a size for the lower bolt that the bottom of the shock goes into? Have the service manual from Ford and it's not included
I used a Craftsman 14mm 3/8 inch socket with a universal adapter along with a 20 inch extension to get to the top plate bolt that was above the rear axle on my 2010 Fusion. Came out easy once I had the correct angle. There was no clearance for 1/2 inch sockets. Thanks for the video. And yes, it is a pain in the butt. I’m going to replace the lower ball joints next. Nothing like disconnecting the steering wheel U joint and dropping the subframe to remove the inner control arm bolts. I just need to keep thinking of all the money I’m saving when I’m cussing out the engineer that came up with this suspension lol.
You don't need to remove the steering wheel shaft or drop the entire subframe. Remove and loosen a few bolts by the sub-frame bracket and use a pry bar to create space to remove the bolt.
th-cam.com/video/dfAOxHLSqCo/w-d-xo.html
@@chriso229 Good advice, I did the same with success.
@@chriso229 thanks for the heads up. Finally am going to get around to doing the front end
Amen to that. I get an estimate every time I do my own work to motivate
How long take to change one rear shock sir ?
Thanks for video. What was the reason they have to be replaced? How did you diagnose the problem and what were the symptoms. Thanks again
Mainly we were hearing rear end noises going over bumps. I also placed call my weight on each side of the trunk lid. As I let go, there was too much bounce.
Thank You: Does the same removal of the shocks from a 2011 Ford sel Taurus apply, Thanks Again.
Thomas McMurray my guess(and it is only a guess) is that it is the same or very similar.
great video is the rear souks u purchased is good quality or not.
OK Thank you
This is a great video! Thanks for uploading it! I have a question. I also have a 2012 Ford Fusion that I suspect the shocks on the rear need to be replaced.the driver side rear tire is cupping on the inner edge of the tire. Do you think that's a sign that the shocks need to be replaced? Or is it something else you think?
I'm not sure what you mean by cupping but if your tires are not symmetrical and one side is closer/drooping more than the other, that's usually your shocks that have gone bad.
I have the 2012 Fusion too. Both my rear tires have the cupping. The shop said I needed struts. So I guess all this time they meant the shocks. I do my own work but I’m disappointed about hearing how hard it is to access the top 3 bolts on these
So today I made the mistake of doing this job again….and now I’m completely screwed…I did one side with not many issue….but on the drivers side the lower shock bolt is completely frozen in place. I got the nut off, but the bolt it self is completely stuck…like half way out and I cannot put it back in or move it whatsoever. The top bolts are off…but I have tried a hammer..my impact wrench which cannot do a thing to move it and it’s a good wrench….rust breaker….a breaker bar can’t move it….nothing will move this bolt even the slightest….may have to cut it somehow, with out damaging the car frame….so freakin annoyed today, been working at this for like 8 hours….and right now have no car. This is not my first shock replacement,, but I can tell you it will be my last
I have 12 fusion and am dreading doing this as mine has rust on it. Did you try jacking up the lower control arm a little or letting in hang and jacking up the pinch weld area?
@@Scott-ms5bb Hello, yes, I did....but I ended up having to cut the shock mount and the bolt. Didnt have any other way to do it...got a good metal cutting blade for my sawzall
I have attempted this twice and gave up both times. I cannot get to that bold for the shock mount by the control arm no matter what I have tried. This is the worst engineering design I have come across so far.
I assume you figured it out, but for others who haven't, Use a 14mm deep offset box end wrench to remove that bolt. There's no need to remove the upper control arm. th-cam.com/video/Y7qFbM8f67M/w-d-xo.html
You can thank Mazda for the glorious design. All of the 2006-2012 Fusions, Milans, and MKZ/Zephyrs share the suspension from the Mazda 6.