Not sure of the point of this experiment. A capacitor is a capacitor, even if it's a super cap or at least it should be. A far more interesting experiment would be the design of a high efficiency power supply that extracts the maximum amount of energy from a super capacitor while maintaining a constant output voltage. This requires a high efficiency automatic buck boost switch mode regulator with a very wide input range, operating down to as lower input voltage as possible. There are a number of candidates from the likes Linear Technology, Texas instruments, Maxim. There are a number of potential advantages of using a super capacitor over a battery. The capacitor should charge more quickly and should not have the limited life of the battery. This is important because the mobile products fitted with sealed for life Li ion batteries have a built in obsolescence. Replacing the battery with a super capacitor should greatly extend the life of the product. The only snag is that, unlike a battery, the voltage across a capacitor is not relatively constant, hence the value of the experiment.
I've done buck/boost drivers in commercial LED driver applications with the LT3477 and the performance was outstanding. I would highly recommend parts from Linear for building custom constant voltage or constant current supplies. Their free LTSpice has models for all their products and it makes it amazingly easy to build a design in simulation and get the performance exactly where you want. Real world results are almost always within 1% of simulation if you use good parts.
@@night6452 true, but there is a new generation of ultra cap being developed that has a higher energy density. What is really irritating is that product manufactures are using the limitations of the lithium battery to build obsolescence into there products by sealing the batteries into the product for its life. Whatever the power source it should user replaceable. The ultra cap is just a way to seal the product without significantly limiting it's working life. You have confirmed my suspicions that the failure mode of these capacitors do not offer significant benefits over the current generation of batteries. The disadvantage of using a capacitor as an energy source is that it's voltage falls exponentially where as a batteries output voltage remains relatively constant over its discharge curve. Maybe a better solution is to power our portable electronics using fuel cells. I know there was some promising work done on methanol/water fuel cells. There energy density was promising, partly because half of the reactants were provided by the air.
Under a full charge, and full speaker load, how long would the caps last? And, how many times could you cycle the caps before you'd need to replace them?
This is true. But too many amps could fry the wires/pcb/parts. So I suppose he's playing it safe to make sure he doesn't burn anything up. New toy, take it easy ;)
How so? In the charging circuit, or to change the 2.5V into something usable for the amp? I'm thinking it may simplify things to run the caps in parallel caps instead of trying to run them in series.
Put those speakers into their own sealed boxes and it’ll be louder still. Sealed boxes have a good frequency response and reduce the load on the amplifier as the air i side acts like a spring, bass response will be much better, a more dynamic/tighter or more precise along with a nice rolloff at low frequencies. A quick step response and a low group delay. It should sound all right!
yes you could, but for simplicity a sealed is good. a well designed ported would have to be calculated properly, and you can achive an increase in frequency responce at a desired frequency but it will have a sharper rolloff, a tradeoff would have to be made, you cant have both. as i said sealed is the easiest and should give a smooth rolloff and a good quick responce
james..you are right, if you are using cheap tinny drivers it isn't worth trying to get any bass out of them anyway, they probably have a free air resonance over 200Hz! BTW At the other end of thescale, I have a very rare prototype Philips 12" motional feedback driver. It has an acceleromter mounted on the voice coil and 4 terminals - 2 for the voice coil and 2 for the accelerometer. It was intended by Philips to be used in a sealed enclosure with a custom amplifier designed to equalise the bottom end by controlling the power (active speaker) but never went into production. Philips did make smaller active speaker with integrated amp back in the 80's.These days it should be easy to make drivers and amps using the same principle. I tried to design a feedback-controlled amp for it but ran into stabiliy problems so I gave up. Still works geat as a passive subwoofer with a 150W amp, though.
@@stmounts ah, à trip down memory lane... I tried to refer to this Philips speaker recently but my crappy memory told me it used laser interferometry for feedback! Well, that would be possible.... anyhow, closed loop control is the way to get very accurate results from devices that have some variability from manufacturing. And it would be cheap to implement today. A bit sad that it got dropped, could have been the gold standard for exact reproduction. Were you controlling it with an analog or digital circuit? I think the big problem is mechanical inertia, if digitally controlled you need a fast predictive algorithm, if analog you need a wing and a prayer. Anyway, I hope you try again and best of luck in making a surgically accurate speaker!
Ray Kent...The problem with active speakers is that they can only work over a limited, mainly bottom end response. AND they can only CORRECT a bass-end speaker, so you have to have a matched speaker/amp which was much more expensive than just making a better speaker in the first place. Money ruled and the Philips active speakers were just too expensive,, despite being better at reproducing tight bass....yeah, I still have the 12" motional feedback driver, and another one about 6" but they are only passive these days, you see it wouldn't make much difference, only when driving them really hard.
Here goes... One amp for one second transfers one coulomb of charge. If this is given to a one farad capacitor it raises the voltage by one volt. The stored energy is one Joule. Assuming your cap has no losses the best you can get out is what you put in, which averages to one watt for one second. With a 600 farad cap starting at 1V you could at best get 1 watt for 10 minutes. If it supports 6v, you could get one watt for one hour. If you want louder music, use a battery, they have far higher energy density than current supercaps.
Many years ago, I had the idea for a USB amplifier that charged some supercaps to supply the peaks. The idea came when I built an audio amplifier with a TI chip and found that it was averaging about 1W power use with some decent volume.
Configure them for 12V and use a buck-boost converter to set the voltage to run the speaker. That way you can recharge the capacitor on the go from your car.
Hi Julian, I am hoping you can help me out, I know very little about the type of thing you do on your channel but never the less I'm still interested, I have a two year old Lexmoto XTRS 125 and was doing some work on tidying and waterproofing the loom up around the headlights and clocks recently and noticed that there is a resistor (at least I think it's a resistor, it certainly appears to be what is left of one) soldered across the male part of a block connector, and two wires are going into the female side of the block connector, the resistor crosses those two wires that are in the female side of this connector, the resistor has decayed quite badly as the cap the covers the resistor is not watertight so i cannot tell which colour code it is, if I unplug the male side that has the resistor in from the female block the bike won't start, the bike lights are always on and cannot be switched off even though there are switches for you to do so, the front light only comes on when the bike is running though, this is probably to conserve the battery while starting, could this resistor or whatever it is be part of the system that only allows the headlights to come on once the engine is running? I've looked in the workshop manual and there is no mention of it's function and nobody seems to know, I'm worried that the state of the resistor could result in the bike braking down one day while I'm out on it so i need to know what to get to replace it, I've had thirty five years of experience with motorcycles and this it the first time I've come across this, the bike is 12v, the male side has no wires going into it only this resistor bridging across, I hope I've explained it well enough. Thanks in advance for any advice you or any viewers might be able to offer.
Wh/Kg. Lead acid 35, lithium ion 290, super caps may one day get 50, I doubt these ones do. So you need the same weight as a lead acid cell, they don’t weigh much do they? I think you need a lot of super capacitors to make this a useful device.
How rapidly can the super capacitors charge with those balance circuits on? I'm planning an e-bike mod to have Re-Gen braking that have the caps power a buck/boost then into a charge module. What would you recommend?
Well at about 1/2 a volt per track it ain’t gonna last long. Lead acid by volume would run a lot longer, if you are not worried about weight. I’m trying to think if there is any point to this.
Don't keep trying to think too long. What I would hope for from Julian is a proper analysis of supercaps versus batteries. The former having much lower energy density and needing circuitry to recover more than 70% of their stored energy. But no, we're treated to an "experiment" to see whether an amp designed to run on 6v can indeed run on 6v. He's making money from TH-cam, the vocoder may never get finished, the complete supercap sound system won't get finished, it's daft to use supercaps for this app, I don't need to see a person unboxing a crap kiddies keyboard..... fillers to keep the TH-cam profile up. This is one of those fillers. Not just useless but misleading and bad!
Awesome job Julian. btw, can you link to, as that resistor looks like something you've added and hopefully filmed, the video where you over rode the aux cutoff as I have that same board and can't seem to get that to function.
I run one of these amps via a buck/boost regulator to give 21v,.. yes you will loose a little efficiency,.. but it will give stability to the amp. and it works a treat. Also when charging your super caps. 'assuming' a standard diode,.. then you should select 8.1 volts as your input charge level... to give you 7.5v distributed at the caps. terminals
Would be a great power source when out and about. A big Rucksack of expensive supercapacitors. Creative engineering. Do you plan any charging stations in the UK for these? I know all about having fun with experiments - I find it funny but still interesting.
When I transfer music to my MP3 player for on-the-go listening, I'll use the Replay Gain calculator built in foobar2000 player for Windows. I'm sure iTunes has one. The software can apply a calculated gain to transfered files so to keep me from fiddling with volume knob all the time. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ReplayGain Disclaimer: Don't apply the gain to your library if you intend to keep your original files untouched. foobar2000 can use tags to register calculated RG values and use them without altering the contents of the original files.
Never mind all the chat about capacitors & speakers, look at the amplifier, I don't recognise it but maybe you should consider Class D units. Adafruit do a tiny stereo one using a MAX98306 which will give 3.7 Watts per channel from a 4.5 to 5.5 Volt suppiy and up to 90% efficiency. Not the cheapest but well worth a look, you could then put your 3 super caps in parallel.
Yes Michael you're right I didn't see those, also I think 2 capacitors is more realistic maybe with a buck/boost module to give a constant 5 Volts. btw the Adafruit amp. I mentioned uses the speaker inductance as a filter so no chokes on the board!
This would be perfect to wire up a bunch of portable (battery) speakers to amp then play to Bluetooth.... considering you can't chain a bunch of Bluetooth speakers to a Bluetooth player
COOL MAN, reminds me of the old joke about the hippey who found a magic lamp. Well he rubbed it to try and clean the dirt off the lamp to see what it was made of, when a huge bunch of smoke began coming from the lamp. It formed itself into the shape of a genie, and as in all of these stories, the genie granted the hippey his fondest wish. "Well," said the hippey, "I want to be up tight, out of sight, and in a groove!" The genie nodded his head, and suddenly the hippey had been turned into a Kotex!
Pentti Kantanen To a point. Then you're just over voltage. I mean yes if the device can handle a wide range you will deplete more of the caps than just doing parallel alone but if you have say 32V of caps going into a 12V device bad things are going to happen.
Yes but these aren't batteries, they don't hold their voltage up until end of charge meaning the more volts you have to work with the longer you can run something, so in this case if the minimum voltage required to run the amp is 5v then you won't be able to use around half of your capacity if you just threw more caps at it, where as if you could run it off 30v then having that higher voltage would allow you to use most of your capacity and you lose a bit of energy but of course you could always grab a buck converter and set it down to a nice low value and run it from your 30v+ supply.
LOL@ The commenters talking about '70's porn tracks! Now we know their general age range, and what they watched when they were young! ;) But on the subject, I don't see a lot of reason for using supercaps in an application like this. Sure, they'll last a long time but they take up so much more space for a given capacity when compared to lithium-cell batteries, as one example. I'd be inclined to power the module from 3-4 series-connected lithium cells with a balance charging and protection circuit. Still, it does make for a fun experiment, even though it has no practical application - yet.
Either the speakers arent that great, your mic is a bit rubbish, youtube is messing with the audio or all three of em. Didnt sound that great. Interesting project none the less
Why would anyone think it wouldn't work?
Not sure of the point of this experiment. A capacitor is a capacitor, even if it's a super cap or at least it should be. A far more interesting experiment would be the design of a high efficiency power supply that extracts the maximum amount of energy from a super capacitor while maintaining a constant output voltage. This requires a high efficiency automatic buck boost switch mode regulator with a very wide input range, operating down to as lower input voltage as possible. There are a number of candidates from the likes Linear Technology, Texas instruments, Maxim.
There are a number of potential advantages of using a super capacitor over a battery. The capacitor should charge more quickly and should not have the limited life of the battery. This is important because the mobile products fitted with sealed for life Li ion batteries have a built in obsolescence. Replacing the battery with a super capacitor should greatly extend the life of the product. The only snag is that, unlike a battery, the voltage across a capacitor is not relatively constant, hence the value of the experiment.
I've done buck/boost drivers in commercial LED driver applications with the LT3477 and the performance was outstanding. I would highly recommend parts from Linear for building custom constant voltage or constant current supplies. Their free LTSpice has models for all their products and it makes it amazingly easy to build a design in simulation and get the performance exactly where you want. Real world results are almost always within 1% of simulation if you use good parts.
@@night6452 true, but there is a new generation of ultra cap being developed that has a higher energy density. What is really irritating is that product manufactures are using the limitations of the lithium battery to build obsolescence into there products by sealing the batteries into the product for its life. Whatever the power source it should user replaceable. The ultra cap is just a way to seal the product without significantly limiting it's working life. You have confirmed my suspicions that the failure mode of these capacitors do not offer significant benefits over the current generation of batteries. The disadvantage of using a capacitor as an energy source is that it's voltage falls exponentially where as a batteries output voltage remains relatively constant over its discharge curve.
Maybe a better solution is to power our portable electronics using fuel cells. I know there was some promising work done on methanol/water fuel cells. There energy density was promising, partly because half of the reactants were provided by the air.
For one night only: DJ Julian and the Super Capacitors
Gotta be the most expensive way to get a 7 volt power supply!
_"It verks! It verks!"_
Skookum as frig?
Nice job finding the dooglie doo.
Under a full charge, and full speaker load, how long would the caps last? And, how many times could you cycle the caps before you'd need to replace them?
You really could charge these up with a couple of amps - these are capacitors, not batteries.
They could be charged at a quite high current. Makes no difference to a capacitors unlike batteries.
This is true. But too many amps could fry the wires/pcb/parts. So I suppose he's playing it safe to make sure he doesn't burn anything up. New toy, take it easy ;)
More to the point, he's having to make sure he doesn't exceed the protection circuit's ability to prevent over-charge.
Yeah, that's the issue. Muppet2 to the rescue :)
How so? In the charging circuit, or to change the 2.5V into something usable for the amp? I'm thinking it may simplify things to run the caps in parallel caps instead of trying to run them in series.
Put those speakers into their own sealed boxes and it’ll be louder still. Sealed boxes have a good frequency response and reduce the load on the amplifier as the air i side acts like a spring, bass response will be much better, a more dynamic/tighter or more precise along with a nice rolloff at low frequencies. A quick step response and a low group delay.
It should sound all right!
Better would be a tuned port box - much more efficient for bass.
yes you could, but for simplicity a sealed is good. a well designed ported would have to be calculated properly, and you can achive an increase in frequency responce at a desired frequency but it will have a sharper rolloff, a tradeoff would have to be made, you cant have both.
as i said sealed is the easiest and should give a smooth rolloff and a good quick responce
james..you are right, if you are using cheap tinny drivers it isn't worth trying to get any bass out of them anyway, they probably have a free air resonance over 200Hz!
BTW At the other end of thescale, I have a very rare prototype Philips 12" motional feedback driver. It has an acceleromter mounted on the voice coil and 4 terminals - 2 for the voice coil and 2 for the accelerometer. It was intended by Philips to be used in a sealed enclosure with a custom amplifier designed to equalise the bottom end by controlling the power (active speaker) but never went into production. Philips did make smaller active speaker with integrated amp back in the 80's.These days it should be easy to make drivers and amps using the same principle.
I tried to design a feedback-controlled amp for it but ran into stabiliy problems so I gave up. Still works geat as a passive subwoofer with a 150W amp, though.
@@stmounts ah, à trip down memory lane... I tried to refer to this Philips speaker recently but my crappy memory told me it used laser interferometry for feedback! Well, that would be possible.... anyhow, closed loop control is the way to get very accurate results from devices that have some variability from manufacturing. And it would be cheap to implement today. A bit sad that it got dropped, could have been the gold standard for exact reproduction. Were you controlling it with an analog or digital circuit? I think the big problem is mechanical inertia, if digitally controlled you need a fast predictive algorithm, if analog you need a wing and a prayer. Anyway, I hope you try again and best of luck in making a surgically accurate speaker!
Ray Kent...The problem with active speakers is that they can only work over a limited, mainly bottom end response. AND they can only CORRECT a bass-end speaker, so you have to have a matched speaker/amp which was much more expensive than just making a better speaker in the first place. Money ruled and the Philips active speakers were just too expensive,, despite being better at reproducing tight bass....yeah, I still have the 12" motional feedback driver, and another one about 6" but they are only passive these days, you see it wouldn't make much difference, only when driving them really hard.
I've been waiting for this video for years!
how many watt hours is a 700f cap?
Here goes... One amp for one second transfers one coulomb of charge. If this is given to a one farad capacitor it raises the voltage by one volt. The stored energy is one Joule. Assuming your cap has no losses the best you can get out is what you put in, which averages to one watt for one second. With a 600 farad cap starting at 1V you could at best get 1 watt for 10 minutes. If it supports 6v, you could get one watt for one hour. If you want louder music, use a battery, they have far higher energy density than current supercaps.
Runtime?
Super caps make sense for audio loads cause of the inconsistent amp draw on the power source causing transients, which can lead to distortion.
To add additional capacitors, just add them in parallel in banks of three. The maximum voltage will be 7.5V but they will hold more charge.
The capacitor that takes the longest to charge may actually be the BEST one of the three. It may well have the highest capacity.
Many years ago, I had the idea for a USB amplifier that charged some supercaps to supply the peaks. The idea came when I built an audio amplifier with a TI chip and found that it was averaging about 1W power use with some decent volume.
Configure them for 12V and use a buck-boost converter to set the voltage to run the speaker.
That way you can recharge the capacitor on the go from your car.
Hi Julian, I am hoping you can help me out, I know very little about the type of thing you do on your channel but never the less I'm still interested, I have a two year old Lexmoto XTRS 125 and was doing some work on tidying and waterproofing the loom up around the headlights and clocks recently and noticed that there is a resistor (at least I think it's a resistor, it certainly appears to be what is left of one) soldered across the male part of a block connector, and two wires are going into the female side of the block connector, the resistor crosses those two wires that are in the female side of this connector, the resistor has decayed quite badly as the cap the covers the resistor is not watertight so i cannot tell which colour code it is, if I unplug the male side that has the resistor in from the female block the bike won't start, the bike lights are always on and cannot be switched off even though there are switches for you to do so, the front light only comes on when the bike is running though, this is probably to conserve the battery while starting, could this resistor or whatever it is be part of the system that only allows the headlights to come on once the engine is running? I've looked in the workshop manual and there is no mention of it's function and nobody seems to know, I'm worried that the state of the resistor could result in the bike braking down one day while I'm out on it so i need to know what to get to replace it, I've had thirty five years of experience with motorcycles and this it the first time I've come across this, the bike is 12v, the male side has no wires going into it only this resistor bridging across, I hope I've explained it well enough.
Thanks in advance for any advice you or any viewers might be able to offer.
Didn't the LED on the right-hand supercap come on later in the video???
Wh/Kg. Lead acid 35, lithium ion 290, super caps may one day get 50, I doubt these ones do. So you need the same weight as a lead acid cell, they don’t weigh much do they? I think you need a lot of super capacitors to make this a useful device.
What power supply did you use? Also what Amplifier? Also what Ryobi?
hi hope you get this. is there a way to convert the volume buttons to some sort of rotary switch
How rapidly can the super capacitors charge with those balance circuits on? I'm planning an e-bike mod to have Re-Gen braking that have the caps power a buck/boost then into a charge module. What would you recommend?
Well at about 1/2 a volt per track it ain’t gonna last long. Lead acid by volume would run a lot longer, if you are not worried about weight. I’m trying to think if there is any point to this.
Don't keep trying to think too long. What I would hope for from Julian is a proper analysis of supercaps versus batteries. The former having much lower energy density and needing circuitry to recover more than 70% of their stored energy. But no, we're treated to an "experiment" to see whether an amp designed to run on 6v can indeed run on 6v. He's making money from TH-cam, the vocoder may never get finished, the complete supercap sound system won't get finished, it's daft to use supercaps for this app, I don't need to see a person unboxing a crap kiddies keyboard..... fillers to keep the TH-cam profile up. This is one of those fillers. Not just useless but misleading and bad!
Ray Kent lets hope no one wastes money on this.There is a good reason a block rocker has wheels and a big 12v lead acid battery.
Awesome job Julian. btw, can you link to, as that resistor looks like something you've added and hopefully filmed, the video where you over rode the aux cutoff as I have that same board and can't seem to get that to function.
This one: th-cam.com/video/AJmFyPst8Cw/w-d-xo.html
Put crank handle on it for charging as can handle high current
Can you add the link to the music you used?
I run one of these amps via a buck/boost regulator to give 21v,.. yes you will loose a little efficiency,.. but it will give stability to the amp. and it works a treat. Also when charging your super caps. 'assuming' a standard diode,.. then you should select 8.1 volts as your input charge level... to give you 7.5v distributed at the caps. terminals
Would be a great power source when out and about. A big Rucksack of expensive supercapacitors. Creative engineering. Do you plan any charging stations in the UK for these? I know all about having fun with experiments - I find it funny but still interesting.
Add a mirror ball and roller rink and you're in business!
8:07 You should use that music on an intro video for the channel with you body popping around describing what the channel is about :D
Won't the volume decrease as the voltage drops? Or does the amp have its own voltage regulation?
Power output will drop but gain will not, eventually the voltage will drop to a point and the unit will just switch off completely
the best thing to do is smoke a big fat joint and watch lamb chops play along!!
Why wouldn’t it work?
Julian is singing at 0:27 :o)
Where is the amp from
Gotta love TH-cam audio library. Generally you get no choice, use the library or get a strike and lose your income.
Find a band and give them free advertising ; )
How much time do these take to discharge completely when put to idle.charging them and keeping aside. Self discharge time
Quickly at first, then slower.
Ryobi. May the tunes be with you.
When I transfer music to my MP3 player for on-the-go listening, I'll use the Replay Gain calculator built in foobar2000 player for Windows. I'm sure iTunes has one. The software can apply a calculated gain to transfered files so to keep me from fiddling with volume knob all the time.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ReplayGain
Disclaimer: Don't apply the gain to your library if you intend to keep your original files untouched. foobar2000 can use tags to register calculated RG values and use them without altering the contents of the original files.
6.9 is divine!
Use all 6 caps And buck boost convertor sets to 12v cap can discharge to 4v
Boosting the voltage takes more power, so even lesser runtime
@@ZillionPrey yes but 80% buck boost convertor is good but you can boost 4v this much lower than 7v
Is there much energy left between 7v and 4v?
Who would have thunkit, volts and amps are volts and amps :)
Never mind all the chat about capacitors & speakers, look at the amplifier, I don't recognise it but maybe you should consider Class D units. Adafruit do a tiny stereo one using a MAX98306 which will give 3.7 Watts per channel from a 4.5 to 5.5 Volt suppiy and up to 90% efficiency. Not the cheapest but well worth a look, you could then put your 3 super caps in parallel.
John, I think it is a class D amplifier. Full of capacitors and chokes.
Yes Michael you're right I didn't see those, also I think 2 capacitors is more realistic maybe with a buck/boost module to give a constant 5 Volts. btw the Adafruit amp. I mentioned uses the speaker inductance as a filter so no chokes on the board!
This would be perfect to wire up a bunch of portable (battery) speakers to amp then play to Bluetooth.... considering you can't chain a bunch of Bluetooth speakers to a Bluetooth player
Fantastic, just get your solar panel attached to caps...
Needs a bass speaker!👍
I expected nothing less coming from you :P
COOL MAN, reminds me of the old joke about the hippey who found a magic lamp. Well he rubbed it to try and clean the dirt off the lamp to see what it was made of, when a huge bunch of smoke began coming from the lamp. It formed itself into the shape of a genie, and as in all of these stories, the genie granted the hippey his fondest wish. "Well," said the hippey, "I want to be up tight, out of sight, and in a groove!" The genie nodded his head, and suddenly the hippey had been turned into a Kotex!
@NGS BUSHCRAFT I had images of it being something to do with guttering before I googled it 😀 must be one of those AmeriBrandz(TM)
Julian, put 2 parallel sets of 4 in series, see how long it lasts ^^
The marvels of class D amplifier ICs...
Why not just put more in parallel? Like 5S by xP or something :-) (where x is some suitably over spec'ed value for awesomeness).
Series would be much better for the voltage.
They're not very cheap if I recall correctly
Pentti Kantanen To a point. Then you're just over voltage. I mean yes if the device can handle a wide range you will deplete more of the caps than just doing parallel alone but if you have say 32V of caps going into a 12V device bad things are going to happen.
Yes but these aren't batteries, they don't hold their voltage up until end of charge meaning the more volts you have to work with the longer you can run something, so in this case if the minimum voltage required to run the amp is 5v then you won't be able to use around half of your capacity if you just threw more caps at it, where as if you could run it off 30v then having that higher voltage would allow you to use most of your capacity and you lose a bit of energy but of course you could always grab a buck converter and set it down to a nice low value and run it from your 30v+ supply.
Running 30V into a LM7805 that draws say 100mA means you'll be dissipating 2.5W (also means you'll bleed away 5/6'ths of the power into heat).
Oh. And turn up the tunes to drown out all the hecklers. Lol.
A super capacitor powered bluetooth speaker is not a big deal, I've got a super capacitor powered electric screwdriver!
Old ryoby tool box for the enclosure AvE style ; )
It's alive! It's alive!! It's ALIVE!!!
Why do people feel the need to say their music is from the youtube audio library?
Because it explains the shitty music, cause the yt audio library is ass.
A Bluetooth speaker for 2-3 songs nice
It all right for starting a car
Yeah, that's the youpron royalty free playlist.
LOL@ The commenters talking about '70's porn tracks! Now we know their general age range, and what they watched when they were young! ;)
But on the subject, I don't see a lot of reason for using supercaps in an application like this. Sure, they'll last a long time but they take up so much more space for a given capacity when compared to lithium-cell batteries, as one example. I'd be inclined to power the module from 3-4 series-connected lithium cells with a balance charging and protection circuit.
Still, it does make for a fun experiment, even though it has no practical application - yet.
Re '70's porn tracks...... my Mum told me about it.
we can all see where this is going julian.. a pwm5 solar powered boombox uhms , for the boat perhaps ? (smile)
Woow excellent
It doesn't look very portable .
Cool. Thanks :)
Complete noob to this, but I think I'm going to have to build myself one of those.
fun times
you are the best
P-Funk. 🎶
Woooohoooo!!
Julianz Jamz. Lol
Cool 😎
Either the speakers arent that great, your mic is a bit rubbish, youtube is messing with the audio or all three of em. Didnt sound that great. Interesting project none the less
The speakers would sound much better in an enclosure.
I don't think it was meant to be an exercise in high end audio.
@@MichaelBeeny agree. This is one of those channels where it doesnt matter if the audio is a bit shit, the content is great anyway!
You gone borring watched all your videos
whats the point of this video?
1ST
Gimp