You are a LEGEND. Fixed my shower today, im 19 and no experience with this kind of thing. Worked like a charm first time. My mom is soo happy I just saved her 100+ quid.
Great video that pointed me in the direction of the solenoid. This was the problem with my shower , cutting off after about 2 minutes , and if left for 10 minutes , it would start again for another 2 minutes or so . I apologise if this has been mentioned before in the comments , but my possibly faulty solenoid tested at 4.7K ohms , which would indicate that it was good. Because I couldn't think what else it might be , and because the replacement solenoid was cheap compared to a new shower , I ordered another solenoid from Amazon for £8.99 which tested at 3.5K ohms. I fitted the replacement and left the shower running for 15 minutes without any problems , which seems to indicate that the original solenoid was indeed faulty , even though it tested at 4.7K ohms. I think coils (the coil is the electrical part of the solenoid) can test OK , but quickly break down when current is passed through them. Therefore , unless your coil reads 0 ohms or open circuit, whereby it's obviously faulty , I would suspect the solenoid ,irrespective of the resistance reading , if your shower keeps cutting out after a few minutes. Anyhow , I'm off to have a long shower , longer than two minutes anyway ! Thanks for the video ; saved me a good bit of cash ...
Thank you for this, a plumber told me I needed a whole new shower but after watching this, I did it myself in 5 minutes with a £10 part. Saved me a fortune!
My Triton Shower installed about three years ago began stopping after 5 minutes. Followed the information and found that the solenoid was about 3.5K when tested cold but after the shower shut off it was very warm and open circuit until it cooled down and would work again. Bought a new solenoid for about £12 from Amazon and it arrived yesterday. Followed the instructions here to fit it (quite easy) and now the shower works properly! Extremely helpful video - the man obviously knows what he is doing. Thanks for the recording.
What a find, thanks for this, was doubtful this would work as shower started playing up and was old, but watched video, , old coil measured 3.54 so thought I’d give it a try as borderline, ordered the recommended coil from shower doctor, arrived next day and swapped over and problem fixed! No one more surprised than me as not “handy” person at all but was so easy to do, only a few mins. Thanks so much, saved me a fortune replacing the shower.
Spot on. Cured my fault, shower would run for about 2 mins, then cut out. In my case (8.5 KW Mira Sprint bought in 2005) the solenoid coil looked OK, but had a slightly lower resistance than the one I had spare. I swapped the coil (carefully for the reason mentioned in the video). Swapping the coil cured the fault. I presume the old coil was shorting slightly (hence the lower resistance) and as a result, overheating, causing the magnetic field to collapse and the valve to close. Many thanks.
Just watched your video's, ordered parts which arrived next morning. Followed all safety advice now shower fixed for £12.... fantastic. many thanks George.
Thank you so much for this, my Triton Cara just stopped working, there was power and water, tested the solenoid and no reading I know power was coming into the valve cause when I turned it on to the first position (yes power was off), i was getting a reading off the supply leads, took great care removing it tested it again outside the shower and no reading, your vlog was very helpful and have a new valve coming. thanks.
Thank you so much for this video. I was very nervous about attempting to fix my shower but really couldn’t afford to get someone in. I found the diagnosis on the shower doctor, then the link to the part, Followed by this video. The part arrived very quickly. I followed the video and did it. I was glad it explained things that might go wrong as well as showing how it may vary. I would not have dared to be so forceful in removing the part if I had not seen this video. It now works without cutting out and it cost less than £20. Brilliant! :)
hello shower Doc I had this '3 minutes only' shower problem and the solution was found on your helpful website. I bought the solenoid from you and your video helped me fit it myself. Shower works now, Thanks.
You sir are a legend, saved me replacing a unit that is countersunk into the tiling. I've never seen a solenoid before so it was very helpful to see how to remove it without breaking anything else. Top guy!
Brilliant! Your site helped me diagnose the problem and with the very clear instruction video and the part (which arrived in a couple of days) I had the job done, and the shower working, in well under an hour.
Thank you so much. Solenoid seemed to get stuck when taking off,at the 3/4 mark. Eventually came off. Replaced with new solenoid and is working perfectly.
Thanks so much for the video... I'd already figured out the valve was kaput and I was ready to bin the shower because the valve's discontinued - but I didn't realise the coil was so easy to remove, was being too gentle with it... New one already on order, I owe you a pint!
It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. We have a video on our channel showing exactly how to test and replace it.
Excellent video: clear, concise, brightly lit making fiddly parts easily visible; Manufacturers said drip is most likely due to solenoid valve (3.5 years old shower)so now I see it is within DIY competence to replace it so I'll do it next weekend.. Thanks for video
Seriously thank you so much for this video, saved me a lot of bother and money. Ordered the part online, installed it easily, job done and the shower is good as new.
FANTASTIC!!! WAS REALLY HARD TO PULL THE COIL OFF IN THE FIRST PLACE BUT THEN WITH HELP FROM WF40 ZOOM OFF IT GOES!! Thanks very much, now im gonna have a long shower! p.s. got quoted £100 by 2 plumbers, thank god I tried this first!
The solenoid coil won’t cause a drip, however the stabilizer will often leak and if this leaks then it can cause the solenoid to fail. As you have no water coming through you will need to replace the solenoid coil and if you trace the leak to the stab valve then my advice is to replace that as well.
Perfect step by step instruction's ...:-) Thank you @showerdoc for saving me a fortune in a possible expensive engineer call-out.. As a fairly competent DIYer i treated SHOWERDOC's method with extreme care and caution... Anyone who broke their shower should leave it to the expert's! Thanks again. :-)
@showerdoc The water is switching off after about 3 mins, but the power light stays on. If you leave it about another 3 minutes it switches back on again for a further minute and then switches off again.
Great video - just a point though - if checking with a meter wouldn't it be best to disconnect one of the spade terminals to avoid the reading being effected by other parts of the circuit?
Hi Anthony It may be a faulty PCB, however it may not be practicable for a DIY repair the only way to check for faulty parts with this shower is by substitution which means you need to have all the components for the shower to enable you to find the faulty part, so whoever advised you just to change the shower they were probably right.The MX Range are OK, they are in fact re-badged Galaxy showers. The Shower Doctor
The solenoid will warm up a little when in use, however if there are no lights at all have you checked the fuse? Also you could have a faulty isolation switch.
This will start with a drip running down on to the coil and over time becomes more of a stream of water depending how bad the split is in the diaphragm. The stabiliser valve which incorporates the solenoid coil is available on our website under appropriate shower model.
I changed the solenoid on my Triton T80XR sucessfully with the part I bought from The Shower Doctor. Beware though that for this type of shower you need to remove most of the screws from the inner parts so that the solenoid can be lifted clear of a plastic partition and then removed. The platic spigot that fits into the solenoid had to be pinched at its end to get it to move inwards, and then again when it was about half way along the inside of the solenoid when it engages in a small gap.
Thank you so much for this video, I watched it last week and although I had no idea what the problem was I ordered a new coil and have a running shower again saved me see dollar thanks a lot ✌
@Blitz3677 I am sorry to hear you had a problem with changing the solenoid coil. Over years I personally have replaced thousands of solenoids and I guess I could count the number of times that this joint has failed on one hand so you really have been quite unlucky. This type of failure is more likely to happen if you tried to lever the coil off with only one screwdriver? My advice to viewers would be to always use 2 screwdrivers to prevent uneven stress on the spindle when levering it off.
Thanks Shower Doctor you saved me a lot of time and hassle.Did not realise till you showed on above video that one could take off bottom surround on Triton T100si to facilitate the removal of the Solenoid.
Tried to change my solenoid coil on my Triton shower as it was faulty, broke the Solenoid Valve as the the coil was glued in. Now got to pay for the job to be done correct. Not as easy as you describe as the Solenoid coil is held in by clips on the valve if this is not squeezed in the long plastic clip will break on the valve !!
If you still monitor this channel, a question if I may. It's just curiosity really. I have a 10.5 Triton Martinique. It did the typical fault, stop starting. I changed the solenoid, sorted. Some years on there has been dripping from the casing, not from the pressure relief valve pipe, so I thought a component must be leaking. I ignored it until the shower started buzzing then shut off. I tried it again, it started and worked for 5 minutes, buzzed and shut off. I took it apart and noticed a possible leak from the temperature valve. I had a spare Martinique so I changed the temperature valve, inlet valve and solenoid all in one go. As I was doing so I now had 3 solenoids so I decided to test them all as you advise. One had zero change so I knew this was the original that had broken. The 'new' one in the shower tested around 3.68, so that was good. The one that I took out tested around 15, and as I kept the tester on it. The numbers were fluctuating up .5 or so, then down 2.0 or so, then up then down until I got fed up waiting for it to settle around 6.5. Do you think it's because it got wet? With no power going to it, how can the reading change so much ? Thanks.
Can you do a tutorial on testing micro switches and an element and explain what readings we are looking for on the multi meter to test if it is faulty or not?
More... There are two relays on the base control board and I ran some fine emery paper over the contacts then removed debris with switch cleaner spray. Then sprayed a little silicon spray onto the solonoid plunger and ran it through a few on/off cycles. I now only get the problem on half of the occasions when I use the Push-Off switch. So, I'm thinking that this is not an electronic control issue but an electro-mechanical one. Shouldn't be too difficult to fix with a bit of guidance? Dr Shower?
@showerdoc I've decided to simply buy a new shower. The cost of buying a new solenoid coil, valve and labour cost is not worth it. BTW I did use 2 screwdrivers to remove the coil valve still broke
my whole triton AS2000XT solenoid valve assembly is permanently stuck in the open position, any ideas? i got 3 different solenoid coils but it seems that the assembly itself isnt letting the coil turn the valve off
I have a Triton Topaz T100si and get a Low Pressure LP warning and water flow stops. Sometimes I have to turn shower on and off several times before it works. I don't have an ohm meter to test solenoid coil.
Mira Jump. Old coil is open circuit. New coil plugged in, and now the shower's power light goes out when I turn it on. New coil is from eBay though, and while it looks the same, it has a 5 kilohm resistance. Still waiting for my coil from Shower Doctor (out of stock). Not sure if something else is wrong with the shower.
Ok never mind. I had the audacity to use the pull cord switch while making this repair, and it turns out that shower pull cord switches are as universally rubbish as solenoid coils. Switch must have been cycled about 8 times in its entire existence and it's already dodgy. Got it to work by jiggling it. New one ordered from Screwfix. MK, in the hope that the most expensive brand is better quality in some way.
Forgetting about the temperature, turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold. At fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose, and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow. If you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve.
A very good video to which I would offer some further advice on a safer way to remove the solenoid coil without applying pressure to the glue joint between the water inlet valve and the solenoid securing stem. Any leverage from the outer body of the water inlet valve will apply pressure to the glue joint, with a risk of failure. A foolproof method is to remove the entire water inlet valve and use the handle of a screwdriver (or the likes) to tap the top of the solenoid and drive the securing stem into solenoid housing. The stem will snag at the mid-point and can be gently driven out by using a large pozi-drive screwdriver or a similar blunt object. Pressure applied to the top of the solenoid stem does not apply any pressure to the glue joint.
great video. I have a Triton T90si which drips ( all day ) when switched off . If I unscrew the hose from the shower I can see it dripping also . Any ideas ? tia.
Hi pal going to look for this valve and check it but essentially had someone plumb the shower in and then wired it up myself but then when i turned the power on it wont work do i need to drain the water and then turn back on or do you think its for sure the valve?
Hi I have Triton Madrid II. Today my son was in the shower and it just stopped and now there is no water coming out of the shower at all but the red power light is on. I powered off the shower for about a hour but still the same no water. So my question is do you think it would be the solenoid coil has gone or something else. Thanks btw the shower played up before about a year ago where the water was coming out but always cold. I replaced the solenoid coil then and it fixed that problem.
Hi, I have a Redring expressions 500S no water flow on hot or cold. Tested solenoid 3.9kohms all micro switches test ok elements test ok. Any help would be appreciated. It’s an old shower but basically never used as we have a mixer shower that’s run from a Combie Boiler doesn’t appear scaled up. Many thanks for the videos. This shower hAs a small PCB
Dear Shower Doctor, My Triton Touch electric shower started cutting off after few seconds of starting and tripping the fuse. I even lowered the temperature, cleaned the shower head and there are no kinks in the shower horse and water comes as normal during the first few seconds. After seeing your video I changed the solenoid coil (the ones you sell in Amazon) but the problem still persist. My shower stopped on Tuesday. Please shower doctor can you please advice if there is anything that I can do before bringing in a professional to replace. Many thanks
Oh dear. Just tried this with my faulty Triton Cara and when I removed the coil as shown in the vid, water poured out of the shower and all over the bathroom floor. I'd obviously not quite turned the water off properly. Unfortunately, the new coil now won't fix back onto the valve and so I can't turn the house water back on. Any tips for isolating the shower's water supply, so we can turn the water back on at the mains to wash in sinks, drink water and go to the loo?!! Has been a total disaster :(
Thanks for video. I have a triton opal 2 ( don't buy one 3 in 3 years! ) I have no water but the power and low pressure lights come on. Do you think thus is the solinoid? Any tips on easiest way to remove. ? I levered off half way no problem but won't come off fully due to plastic moulding on the back plate of the shower. Looks like I gave to disconnect from water and also removed valve from heating pump? ? Could I cheat and simply cut the plastic part of backplate to enable it to simply slide
Hi, i have a Triton ts80i shower a couple of weeks ago i noticed water dripping from the base of the unit, after researching on the internet and your helpful video i think the solenoid coil is faulty, do you also think i will need to replace the stabiliser valve aswell? as this could have been the cause of the dripping?
Hi Shower Doctor, I have a Redring Expressions 500 which is stuttering on startup, but only when on the hot setting. Could the solenoid valve be the culprit?
thanks for video,please can you help I have mira sport which was workin for about ten minutes every time I used it, now no go and low flow light on, is this the solenoid coil,if so how do iget to it ,it is underneath black cover thingy
Hi Martin, When you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid. When you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the water stops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on. The Shower Doctor
I have a shower that overheats the water even on the cold setting. Sometimes it shuts of the electric completely and goes cold water only. Then sometimes it is ok. The water pressure seems to be fairly constant so I'm wondering if it is the solenoid or does the whole shower need to be replaced. Any help with this problem?
I have a Bristan shower - its showing LOW PRESSURE but the water is coming out at a good pressure - however it is just cold. Any ideas what this could be?
Thank you for your video on how to replace a flow regulator. It was so easy even me a mere woman could replace it. But unfortunately it still runs hot and cold, but mainly cold, what do you suggest I do next? thanks.
Hi I have a castel solenoid for a freezer. It is rated at 240V, 60Hz. I am getting a resistance of 1050 Ohms. The coil does not become magnetic. Also we trip an RCD. What are your thoughts on this?
Had this problem on a Madrid II. The coil was a bugger to get off, but eventually I pulled it off with a tool. Hopefully I haven't done any damage to the valve.
I've got what u think is a fault on this solenoid. Shower switching off but staying powered up. If i wiggle the solenoid it kicks back in. Is this likely to be the valve or the solenoid?
Good stuff, thank you. I have an original Triton Opal 10.5KVA that works fine except when I hit the Off button it switches off the heating element but the water keeps flowing. If I switch off the DPDT switch and power up again the flow stops and it works normally until I go to hit the Off button again. Is this a control valve solonoid issue or a control board logic fault? Do you stock the parts for something that's over ten years old?
Hey there. I was wondering if you could give me some advice. I've followed your instructions exactly. Thank you, they were extremely clear and with your advice, I used a screwdriver to ensure the glued part did not accidentally detach. I ordered a new solenoid, but what turned up did not have locater lugs on it to lock it into place in my shower. The one I took off the shower did (it is Triton). Do I need the lugs or can I use what they sent me. The reason I ask is that I saw another seller selling solenoids and their blurb stated that shower solenoids require the lugs to stop them moving and that solenoids without locator lugs are for washing machines. You mention on your vid about locators, but I didn't see on any on the solenoid you replaced.
Advice please. My electric shower stops after a few minutes of usage and won't work again untill rested for atleast 10 minutes. Checked the solenoid and I'm getting 3.7ohms so assuming it's okay ? What's my next check ? Thanks
hi i have a triton opal 1 9.5 kw and we find that it cuts in and out rappidly showing the low pressure light we find that if we push on the bottom right of the case it comes back on any suggestions on what may be the most likely culprit ? some showers it does this alot and some it is fine thanks
hi, i have a triton barbados approx 10 yrs old, it works fine for 5 mins or so then shuts off(no loss of pressure,water temp is fine, power light still on, unit does not drip when turned off) switch off for a minute or two then works fine until it cuts out again after 5 mins, any ideas, thanks.
Hi Shower Doctor, I have a Mira sprint electric. it stoped working the other day, checked a few things, water, electric, hose. when you mention to check the coil for resistance, it has plenty (4.13) should I still change it?
my Triton t90si has lost most of its pressure I have checked pressure relief valve still has its ball inside do you know if the solenoid coil goes in this model type the same as other Triton models cheers thanks
Triton sambada has a strange problem too - The coil reads 3.96k ohms. The valve isn`t stuck (blow through it and suck to see if it shuts off). Excellent water pressure from mains. What else could the problem be ?
I've done the same with Triton Touch..but the issue still persist even after replacing a new solenoid valve (after starting the shower it cuts off within few seconds even after turning the temperature to the lowest level) I'm also wondering what else it could be. Any advice shower doctor#???
I had always wondered if it was possible to change the coil on a solenoid valve, now I know how. I had a duff coil on a right angle valve and a spare working straight valve... swap the coils and now the dishwasher is working again. Shower, washing machine, dishwasher... they are all the same type of valve.
Hi Is the problem no water, or no hot water? No water: then it is likely to be the solenoid No heat: then it is likely to be a faulty element or Thermal Cut Out. Regarding the tester: The one in the clip is a fairly expensive professional tool, however we have much cheaper versions on our web site that will do the job. If you need any more info you can go to our website and use out ticketing system or try our forum
hi I got Gainsborough 8.5 SE suddenly it has dropped water pressure only very less water is coming out i.e. much hot, I checked filter, hose, hand unit and water pressure are OK, I turned knob fully to cold but still less hot water i can hear heating boiling sound from shower then water becomes bit faster and then stops and process goes on same way, should solenoid needs to be replace, Please can you advice
Hi followed this excellent video a couple of years ago to replace the solenoid coil on my Redring Zeta Profile shower, which worked fine afterwards apart from the buzzing noise that persisted with the shower flow. This time, same problem with no water, thought it was the solenoid coil again and sought to replace it, resistance shows 3.76kohms on the new coil but still no water. Checked mains water pressure through the isolating valve and goes to the shower inlet OK but does not come out through the shower. Could it be the solenoid valve stuck shut or something else?
I have an Essentials 9.5KW circa 2004. Not been used for a while.Only a minute amount of water flows through it (power on or off). Tried removing the shower head and hose but no change. I took the shower off the wall to inspect and found that applying pressure with a makeshift hose, the same minimal flow of water came through, however doing this in reverse through the water outlet gave a full easy flow back through the shower. The filter isnt blocked. Any idea whats causing the blockage?
My Mira Go suddenly stopped working. Power light is on, which then goes out when the on/off button is switched on. Solenoid resistance is 3.49, which should be ok, but no water, no sound, nowt. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Can you tell me how to remove the solenoid on a triton t80xr please as the housing for it is on the side and there doesn't seem to be any room to slide it out without removing the valve its attached too.
The problem i have is that the cold pressure is fine! but when i turn dial up to Hot the flow drops to a trickle , checked the solenoid and it`s fine. Any ideas Shower Doc ?
I recently replaced a Triton shower with one that was the same model, it was working fine for a first few days before suddenly it would not turn on at all (no lights), i opened the cover & noticed a slight spillage of a blue dye on the sill of the cover (almost as if something had fried). Upon inspection i could not find any parts or wires that looked damaged however the solenoid valve did smell as if it had previously fried inside. Could you suggest what could have caused this?
hi i have a gainsbrough shower and it was working fine,then started to work the odd occassion and now wont start...there is power to the unit as when switched on at the main shower switch it lights up but when you press the start button nothing happens....could this be the solinoid? or faulty switch? how would i test these...thanks
Hi, my Electric shower shows no sign of power, while in the power box the Load Line shows power but the supply line does not show . Can you please explain , that the supply line there is no power showing but the Load shows, and inside the electric shower does not show any power .Thank you
Great video but just to clarify, you said that the solenoid should be more than 3.5K. It's more that it should be in a RANGE of ohms, around 3.5k to say 4k or whatever. It may fail in a way that the resistance goes to infinite resistance / open circuit, which is certainly over 3.5k! When removing the solenoid it can stick *very* firmly at the *end* of the plastic shaft, you might try pushing it back on and then using a flat blade screwdriver to slightly encourage the expanding clips on the end of the shaft of it back inwards, then pull it off again and it may came off much more easily. Another tip is after you finish, turn the power back on, press the glowing button and no water comes out, please remember you've turned the water off before reaching for some anglo-saxon language :)
My Solenoid is reading 3.4K Ohms is that okay? Mine keeps going on and off mid use. I ordered a replacement and they accidentally sent me two, one is also 3.4 but one is 3.5.
@@TheCodingSeal I'd say that's totally OK. The point about these things is if it's WILDLY wrong THEN you worry, e.g. no circuit, or a short circuit :) I come from a background where these things matter (like a wrong resistor is a faulty thing) but THIS is more pass/fail. 3.4k sounds absolutely perfect :) Edit: Basically it's not that fancy! The component will be a coil of wire (with an inherent resistance over its length) wrapped around something metal it wants to act on. If the wire breaks = bad. If it short circuits (touches itself) bad. Anything broadly in specification should be OK :)
This is almost certainly a faulty element in the heating tank. We have also made a video guide covering this, called ''Testing a heating tank element inside an electric shower''. You can find it on our channel.
The problem, depending on the age of the shower, is either a faulty flow valve or if the shower is the newer version, the shower needs to be re commissioned, and if this does not work it needs a new front cover.
You are a LEGEND.
Fixed my shower today, im 19 and no experience with this kind of thing. Worked like a charm first time. My mom is soo happy I just saved her 100+ quid.
Great video that pointed me in the direction of the solenoid. This was the problem with my shower , cutting off after about 2 minutes , and if left for 10 minutes , it would start again for another 2 minutes or so . I apologise if this has been mentioned before in the comments , but my possibly faulty solenoid tested at 4.7K ohms , which would indicate that it was good. Because I couldn't think what else it might be , and because the replacement solenoid was cheap compared to a new shower , I ordered another solenoid from Amazon for £8.99 which tested at 3.5K ohms.
I fitted the replacement and left the shower running for 15 minutes without any problems , which seems to indicate that the original solenoid was indeed faulty , even though it tested at 4.7K ohms. I think coils (the coil is the electrical part of the solenoid) can test OK , but quickly break down when current is passed through them. Therefore , unless your coil reads 0 ohms or open circuit, whereby it's obviously faulty , I would suspect the solenoid ,irrespective of the resistance reading , if your shower keeps cutting out after a few minutes.
Anyhow , I'm off to have a long shower , longer than two minutes anyway !
Thanks for the video ; saved me a good bit of cash ...
Thanks for this comment.
Thank you for this, a plumber told me I needed a whole new shower but after watching this, I did it myself in 5 minutes with a £10 part. Saved me a fortune!
My Triton Shower installed about three years ago began stopping after 5 minutes. Followed the information and found that the solenoid was about 3.5K when tested cold but after the shower shut off it was very warm and open circuit until it cooled down and would work again. Bought a new solenoid for about £12 from Amazon and it arrived yesterday. Followed the instructions here to fit it (quite easy) and now the shower works properly! Extremely helpful video - the man obviously knows what he is doing. Thanks for the recording.
What a find, thanks for this, was doubtful this would work as shower started playing up and was old, but watched video, , old coil measured 3.54 so thought I’d give it a try as borderline, ordered the recommended coil from shower doctor, arrived next day and swapped over and problem fixed! No one more surprised than me as not “handy” person at all but was so easy to do, only a few mins. Thanks so much, saved me a fortune replacing the shower.
This video has saved me a fortune, managed to fix issue with solenoid and ancient triton now working again.
many thanks
Spot on. Cured my fault, shower would run for about 2 mins, then cut out. In my case (8.5 KW Mira Sprint bought in 2005) the solenoid coil looked OK, but had a slightly lower resistance than the one I had spare. I swapped the coil (carefully for the reason mentioned in the video). Swapping the coil cured the fault. I presume the old coil was shorting slightly (hence the lower resistance) and as a result, overheating, causing the magnetic field to collapse and the valve to close.
Many thanks.
Just watched your video's, ordered parts which arrived next morning. Followed all safety advice now shower fixed for £12.... fantastic. many thanks George.
Thank you so much for this, my Triton Cara just stopped working, there was power and water, tested the solenoid and no reading I know power was coming into the valve cause when I turned it on to the first position (yes power was off), i was getting a reading off the supply leads, took great care removing it tested it again outside the shower and no reading, your vlog was very helpful and have a new valve coming. thanks.
Thank you so much for this video. I was very nervous about attempting to fix my shower but really couldn’t afford to get someone in. I found the diagnosis on the shower doctor, then the link to the part, Followed by this video. The part arrived very quickly. I followed the video and did it. I was glad it explained things that might go wrong as well as showing how it may vary. I would not have dared to be so forceful in removing the part if I had not seen this video. It now works without cutting out and it cost less than £20. Brilliant! :)
Fantastic videos and advice. Mended my Mira Sport by changing the solenoid; cost less than £20 and didn't take too long at all
hello shower Doc
I had this '3 minutes only' shower problem and the solution was found on your helpful website. I bought the solenoid from you and your video helped me fit it myself. Shower works now, Thanks.
You sir are a legend, saved me replacing a unit that is countersunk into the tiling. I've never seen a solenoid before so it was very helpful to see how to remove it without breaking anything else. Top guy!
Brilliant! Your site helped me diagnose the problem and with the very clear instruction video and the part (which arrived in a couple of days) I had the job done, and the shower working, in well under an hour.
Thank you so much. Solenoid seemed to get stuck when taking off,at the 3/4 mark. Eventually came off. Replaced with new solenoid and is working perfectly.
Thank God for videos like these and God bless those who make them!
Thanks so much for the video... I'd already figured out the valve was kaput and I was ready to bin the shower because the valve's discontinued - but I didn't realise the coil was so easy to remove, was being too gentle with it... New one already on order, I owe you a pint!
Not only that, but you had the coil in stock on Amazon... So glad I checked before rushing out for a new shower... Thanks again!
It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. We have a video on our channel showing exactly how to test and replace it.
Excellent video: clear, concise, brightly lit making fiddly parts easily visible; Manufacturers said drip is most likely due to solenoid valve (3.5 years old shower)so now I see it is within DIY competence to replace it so I'll do it next weekend.. Thanks for video
Seriously thank you so much for this video, saved me a lot of bother and money. Ordered the part online, installed it easily, job done and the shower is good as new.
Shower doctor is great changed a solenoid coil after watching the video all went to plan thanks.
FANTASTIC!!! WAS REALLY HARD TO PULL THE COIL OFF IN THE FIRST PLACE BUT THEN WITH HELP FROM WF40 ZOOM OFF IT GOES!!
Thanks very much, now im gonna have a long shower! p.s. got quoted £100 by 2 plumbers, thank god I tried this first!
Thank you for the video and information. You’ve saved me a lot of money there. Just fixed mine by replacing the coil.
The solenoid coil won’t cause a drip, however the stabilizer will often leak and if this leaks then it can cause the solenoid to fail.
As you have no water coming through you will need to replace the solenoid coil and if you trace the leak to the stab valve then my advice is to replace that as well.
Perfect step by step instruction's ...:-)
Thank you @showerdoc for saving me a fortune in a possible expensive engineer call-out..
As a fairly competent DIYer i treated SHOWERDOC's method with extreme care and caution...
Anyone who broke their shower should leave it to the expert's!
Thanks again. :-)
@showerdoc The water is switching off after about 3 mins, but the power light stays on. If you leave it about another 3 minutes it switches back on again for a further minute and then switches off again.
Great video - just a point though - if checking with a meter wouldn't it be best to disconnect one of the spade terminals to avoid the reading being effected by other parts of the circuit?
Hi Anthony
It may be a faulty PCB, however it may not be practicable for a DIY repair the only way to check for faulty parts with this shower is by substitution which means you need to have all the components for the shower to enable you to find the faulty part, so whoever advised you just to change the shower they were probably right.The MX Range are OK, they are in fact re-badged Galaxy showers.
The Shower Doctor
The solenoid will warm up a little when in use, however if there are no lights at all have you checked the fuse? Also you could have a faulty isolation switch.
This will start with a drip running down on to the coil and over time becomes more of a stream of water depending how bad the split is in the diaphragm.
The stabiliser valve which incorporates the solenoid coil is available on our website under appropriate shower model.
Thanks for posting this and the help via email. Shower now fixed (fingers crossed) where I was expecting to have a new unit fitted. Thanks :0)
I changed the solenoid on my Triton T80XR sucessfully with the part I bought from The Shower Doctor. Beware though that for this type of shower you need to remove most of the screws from the inner parts so that the solenoid can be lifted clear of a plastic partition and then removed. The platic spigot that fits into the solenoid had to be pinched at its end to get it to move inwards, and then again when it was about half way along the inside of the solenoid when it engages in a small gap.
Thank you so much for this video, I watched it last week and although I had no idea what the problem was I ordered a new coil and have a running shower again saved me see dollar thanks a lot ✌
@Blitz3677 I am sorry to hear you had a problem with changing the solenoid coil. Over years I personally have replaced thousands of solenoids and I guess I could count the number of times that this joint has failed on one hand so you really have been quite unlucky.
This type of failure is more likely to happen if you tried to lever the coil off with only one screwdriver? My advice to viewers would be to always use 2 screwdrivers to prevent uneven stress on the spindle when levering it off.
Thanks Shower Doctor you saved me a lot of time and hassle.Did not realise till you showed on above video that one could take off bottom surround on Triton T100si to facilitate the removal of the Solenoid.
You're welcome!
Great video did the whole job in about an hour. Great tip about using two screwdrivers.
Tried to change my solenoid coil on my Triton shower as it was faulty, broke the Solenoid Valve as the the coil was glued in. Now got to pay for the job to be done correct. Not as easy as you describe as the Solenoid coil is held in by clips on the valve if this is not squeezed in the long plastic clip will break on the valve !!
If you still monitor this channel, a question if I may. It's just curiosity really.
I have a 10.5 Triton Martinique. It did the typical fault, stop starting. I changed the solenoid, sorted. Some years on there has been dripping from the casing, not from the pressure relief valve pipe, so I thought a component must be leaking. I ignored it until the shower started buzzing then shut off. I tried it again, it started and worked for 5 minutes, buzzed and shut off. I took it apart and noticed a possible leak from the temperature valve. I had a spare Martinique so I changed the temperature valve, inlet valve and solenoid all in one go. As I was doing so I now had 3 solenoids so I decided to test them all as you advise. One had zero change so I knew this was the original that had broken. The 'new' one in the shower tested around 3.68, so that was good. The one that I took out tested around 15, and as I kept the tester on it. The numbers were fluctuating up .5 or so, then down 2.0 or so, then up then down until I got fed up waiting for it to settle around 6.5. Do you think it's because it got wet? With no power going to it, how can the reading change so much ? Thanks.
Can a dead solenoid have a resistance of open circuit?
Can you do a tutorial on testing micro switches and an element and explain what readings we are looking for on the multi meter to test if it is faulty or not?
More...
There are two relays on the base control board and I ran some fine emery paper over the contacts then removed debris with switch cleaner spray. Then sprayed a little silicon spray onto the solonoid plunger and ran it through a few on/off cycles. I now only get the problem on half of the occasions when I use the Push-Off switch. So, I'm thinking that this is not an electronic control issue but an electro-mechanical one. Shouldn't be too difficult to fix with a bit of guidance? Dr Shower?
@showerdoc I've decided to simply buy a new shower. The cost of buying a new solenoid coil, valve and labour cost is not worth it. BTW I did use 2 screwdrivers to remove the coil valve still broke
my whole triton AS2000XT solenoid valve assembly is permanently stuck in the open position, any ideas? i got 3 different solenoid coils but it seems that the assembly itself isnt letting the coil turn the valve off
Great video, very clear, well explained & to the point. Thanks.
I have a Triton Topaz T100si and get a Low Pressure LP warning and water flow stops. Sometimes I have to turn shower on and off several times before it works. I don't have an ohm meter to test solenoid coil.
Mira Jump. Old coil is open circuit. New coil plugged in, and now the shower's power light goes out when I turn it on.
New coil is from eBay though, and while it looks the same, it has a 5 kilohm resistance. Still waiting for my coil from Shower Doctor (out of stock). Not sure if something else is wrong with the shower.
Ok never mind. I had the audacity to use the pull cord switch while making this repair, and it turns out that shower pull cord switches are as universally rubbish as solenoid coils.
Switch must have been cycled about 8 times in its entire existence and it's already dodgy.
Got it to work by jiggling it. New one ordered from Screwfix. MK, in the hope that the most expensive brand is better quality in some way.
Forgetting about the temperature, turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold. At fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose, and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow. If you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve.
A very good video to which I would offer some further advice on a safer way to remove the solenoid coil without applying pressure to the glue joint between the water inlet valve and the solenoid securing stem. Any leverage from the outer body of the water inlet valve will apply pressure to the glue joint, with a risk of failure. A foolproof method is to remove the entire water inlet valve and use the handle of a screwdriver (or the likes) to tap the top of the solenoid and drive the securing stem into solenoid housing. The stem will snag at the mid-point and can be gently driven out by using a large pozi-drive screwdriver or a similar blunt object. Pressure applied to the top of the solenoid stem does not apply any pressure to the glue joint.
@county582 its an electrically operated water supply on/off valve.
great video. I have a Triton T90si which drips ( all day ) when switched off . If I unscrew the hose from the shower I can see it dripping also . Any ideas ? tia.
Thanks for the info ... was unsure how this came off!
Hi pal going to look for this valve and check it but essentially had someone plumb the shower in and then wired it up myself but then when i turned the power on it wont work do i need to drain the water and then turn back on or do you think its for sure the valve?
Hi
I have Triton Madrid II. Today my son was in the shower and it just stopped and now there is no water coming out of the shower at all but the red power light is on. I powered off the shower for about a hour but still the same no water. So my question is do you think it would be the solenoid coil has gone or something else.
Thanks
btw the shower played up before about a year ago where the water was coming out but always cold. I replaced the solenoid coil then and it fixed that problem.
Hi, I have a Redring expressions 500S no water flow on hot or cold. Tested solenoid 3.9kohms all micro switches test ok elements test ok. Any help would be appreciated. It’s an old shower but basically never used as we have a mixer shower that’s run from a Combie Boiler doesn’t appear scaled up. Many thanks for the videos. This shower hAs a small PCB
Your videos are excellent!! Many thanks for posting.
Dear Shower Doctor,
My Triton Touch electric shower started cutting off after few seconds of starting and tripping the fuse. I even lowered the temperature, cleaned the shower head and there are no kinks in the shower horse and water comes as normal during the first few seconds.
After seeing your video I changed the solenoid coil (the ones you sell in Amazon) but the problem still persist. My shower stopped on Tuesday.
Please shower doctor can you please advice if there is anything that I can do before bringing in a professional to replace.
Many thanks
Oh dear. Just tried this with my faulty Triton Cara and when I removed the coil as shown in the vid, water poured out of the shower and all over the bathroom floor. I'd obviously not quite turned the water off properly.
Unfortunately, the new coil now won't fix back onto the valve and so I can't turn the house water back on. Any tips for isolating the shower's water supply, so we can turn the water back on at the mains to wash in sinks, drink water and go to the loo?!!
Has been a total disaster :(
Thanks for video. I have a triton opal 2 ( don't buy one 3 in 3 years! ) I have no water but the power and low pressure lights come on. Do you think thus is the solinoid? Any tips on easiest way to remove. ? I levered off half way no problem but won't come off fully due to plastic moulding on the back plate of the shower. Looks like I gave to disconnect from water and also removed valve from heating pump? ? Could I cheat and simply cut the plastic part of backplate to enable it to simply slide
Hi, i have a Triton ts80i shower a couple of weeks ago i noticed water dripping from the base of the unit, after researching on the internet and your helpful video i think the solenoid coil is faulty, do you also think i will need to replace the stabiliser valve aswell? as this could have been the cause of the dripping?
Hi Shower Doctor, I have a Redring Expressions 500 which is stuttering on startup, but only when on the hot setting. Could the solenoid valve be the culprit?
thanks for video,please can you help I have mira sport which was workin for about ten minutes every time I used it, now no go and low flow light on, is this the solenoid coil,if so how do iget to it ,it is underneath black cover thingy
Hi Martin,
When you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.
When you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the water stops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.
The Shower Doctor
I have a shower that overheats the water even on the cold setting. Sometimes it shuts of the electric completely and goes cold water only. Then sometimes it is ok. The water pressure seems to be fairly constant so I'm wondering if it is the solenoid or does the whole shower need to be replaced. Any help with this problem?
I have a Bristan shower - its showing LOW PRESSURE but the water is coming out at a good pressure - however it is just cold. Any ideas what this could be?
Many thanks for this video. It helped me fix my shower. Brilliant.
Thank you for your video on how to replace a flow regulator. It was so easy even me a mere woman could replace it. But unfortunately it still runs hot and cold, but mainly cold, what do you suggest I do next? thanks.
Hi I have a castel solenoid for a freezer. It is rated at 240V, 60Hz. I am getting a resistance of 1050 Ohms. The coil does not become magnetic. Also we trip an RCD.
What are your thoughts on this?
Had this problem on a Madrid II. The coil was a bugger to get off, but eventually I pulled it off with a tool. Hopefully I haven't done any damage to the valve.
I've got what u think is a fault on this solenoid.
Shower switching off but staying powered up.
If i wiggle the solenoid it kicks back in.
Is this likely to be the valve or the solenoid?
Good stuff, thank you.
I have an original Triton Opal 10.5KVA that works fine except when I hit the Off button it switches off the heating element but the water keeps flowing. If I switch off the DPDT switch and power up again the flow stops and it works normally until I go to hit the Off button again.
Is this a control valve solonoid issue or a control board logic fault?
Do you stock the parts for something that's over ten years old?
Hey there. I was wondering if you could give me some advice.
I've followed your instructions exactly. Thank you, they were extremely clear and with your advice, I used a screwdriver to ensure the glued part did not accidentally detach.
I ordered a new solenoid, but what turned up did not have locater lugs on it to lock it into place in my shower. The one I took off the shower did (it is Triton). Do I need the lugs or can I use what they sent me. The reason I ask is that I saw another seller selling solenoids and their blurb stated that shower solenoids require the lugs to stop them moving and that solenoids without locator lugs are for washing machines.
You mention on your vid about locators, but I didn't see on any on the solenoid you replaced.
Hi is this a cure for a pinging ( hot. And cold) for a Triton t90i ( electric pumped)? Thanks
Advice please. My electric shower stops after a few minutes of usage and won't work again untill rested for atleast 10 minutes. Checked the solenoid and I'm getting 3.7ohms so assuming it's okay ? What's my next check ? Thanks
hi i have a triton opal 1 9.5 kw and we find that it cuts in and out rappidly showing the low pressure light we find that if we push on the bottom right of the case it comes back on any suggestions on what may be the most likely culprit ? some showers it does this alot and some it is fine
thanks
hi, i have a triton barbados approx 10 yrs old, it works fine for 5 mins or so then shuts off(no loss of pressure,water temp is fine, power light still on, unit does not drip when turned off) switch off for a minute or two then works fine until it cuts out again after 5 mins, any ideas, thanks.
Hi Shower Doctor, I have a Mira sprint electric. it stoped working the other day, checked a few things, water, electric, hose. when you mention to check the coil for resistance, it has plenty (4.13) should I still change it?
my Triton t90si has lost most of its pressure I have checked pressure relief valve still has its ball inside do you know if the solenoid coil goes in this model type the same as other Triton models cheers thanks
Triton sambada has a strange problem too - The coil reads 3.96k ohms. The valve isn`t stuck (blow through it and suck to see if it shuts off). Excellent water pressure from mains. What else could the problem be ?
I've just changed the solenoid but still nothing. I've got a triton aspirante. If it's not the solenoid what else should I check
I've done the same with Triton Touch..but the issue still persist even after replacing a new solenoid valve (after starting the shower it cuts off within few seconds even after turning the temperature to the lowest level)
I'm also wondering what else it could be. Any advice shower doctor#???
I had always wondered if it was possible to change the coil on a solenoid valve, now I know how.
I had a duff coil on a right angle valve and a spare working straight valve... swap the coils and now the dishwasher is working again. Shower, washing machine, dishwasher... they are all the same type of valve.
I have an AS2000T and cant remove the solenoid valve as the case is in the way, I bought a new one but it looks even longer than the old one.
Hi
Is the problem no water, or no hot water?
No water: then it is likely to be the solenoid
No heat: then it is likely to be a faulty element or Thermal Cut Out.
Regarding the tester: The one in the clip is a fairly expensive professional tool, however we have much cheaper versions on our web site that will do the job.
If you need any more info you can go to our website and use out ticketing system or try our forum
hi
I got Gainsborough 8.5 SE suddenly it has dropped water pressure only very less water is coming out i.e. much hot, I checked filter, hose, hand unit and water pressure are OK, I turned knob fully to cold but still less hot water i can hear heating boiling sound from shower then water becomes bit faster and then stops and process goes on same way, should solenoid needs to be replace, Please can you advice
This video saved me a lot of time, thank you
Hi followed this excellent video a couple of years ago to replace the solenoid coil on my Redring Zeta Profile shower, which worked fine afterwards apart from the buzzing noise that persisted with the shower flow. This time, same problem with no water, thought it was the solenoid coil again and sought to replace it, resistance shows 3.76kohms on the new coil but still no water. Checked mains water pressure through the isolating valve and goes to the shower inlet OK but does not come out through the shower. Could it be the solenoid valve stuck shut or something else?
The solenoid assembly itself maybe faulty if you have just changed the coil.
Have a Mira Azora which has no water going through , The solenoid has a reading of 4.0 , what else could be wrong ?
I have an Essentials 9.5KW circa 2004. Not been used for a while.Only a minute amount of water flows through it (power on or off). Tried removing the shower head and hose but no change. I took the shower off the wall to inspect and found that applying pressure with a makeshift hose, the same minimal flow of water came through, however doing this in reverse through the water outlet gave a full easy flow back through the shower. The filter isnt blocked. Any idea whats causing the blockage?
My Mira Go suddenly stopped working. Power light is on, which then goes out when the on/off button is switched on. Solenoid resistance is 3.49, which should be ok, but no water, no sound, nowt. Any thoughts? Thanks.
My shower is constantly dripping from where the shower head cable thing would connect to the main frame. Do you think the solenoid is to blame?
Can you tell me how to remove the solenoid on a triton t80xr please as the housing for it is on the side and there doesn't seem to be any room to slide it out without removing the valve its attached too.
Unfortunately on the T80XR you need to pretty much remove the valve to get enough room to remove the coil.
The Shower Doctor That's what I sort of figured. Thanks for the reply.
The problem i have is that the cold pressure is fine! but when i turn dial up to Hot the flow drops to a trickle , checked the solenoid and it`s fine. Any ideas Shower Doc ?
I recently replaced a Triton shower with one that was the same model, it was working fine for a first few days before suddenly it would not turn on at all (no lights), i opened the cover & noticed a slight spillage of a blue dye on the sill of the cover (almost as if something had fried). Upon inspection i could not find any parts or wires that looked damaged however the solenoid valve did smell as if it had previously fried inside. Could you suggest what could have caused this?
hi i have a gainsbrough shower and it was working fine,then started to work the odd occassion and now wont start...there is power to the unit as when switched on at the main shower switch it lights up but when you press the start button nothing happens....could this be the solinoid? or faulty switch? how would i test these...thanks
Hi, my Electric shower shows no sign of power, while in the power box the Load Line shows power but the supply line does not show . Can you please explain , that the supply line there is no power showing but the Load shows, and inside the electric shower does not show any power .Thank you
Great video but just to clarify, you said that the solenoid should be more than 3.5K. It's more that it should be in a RANGE of ohms, around 3.5k to say 4k or whatever. It may fail in a way that the resistance goes to infinite resistance / open circuit, which is certainly over 3.5k!
When removing the solenoid it can stick *very* firmly at the *end* of the plastic shaft, you might try pushing it back on and then using a flat blade screwdriver to slightly encourage the expanding clips on the end of the shaft of it back inwards, then pull it off again and it may came off much more easily.
Another tip is after you finish, turn the power back on, press the glowing button and no water comes out, please remember you've turned the water off before reaching for some anglo-saxon language :)
My Solenoid is reading 3.4K Ohms is that okay? Mine keeps going on and off mid use. I ordered a replacement and they accidentally sent me two, one is also 3.4 but one is 3.5.
@@TheCodingSeal
I'd say that's totally OK. The point about these things is if it's WILDLY wrong THEN you worry, e.g. no circuit, or a short circuit :) I come from a background where these things matter (like a wrong resistor is a faulty thing) but THIS is more pass/fail. 3.4k sounds absolutely perfect :)
Edit: Basically it's not that fancy! The component will be a coil of wire (with an inherent resistance over its length) wrapped around something metal it wants to act on. If the wire breaks = bad. If it short circuits (touches itself) bad. Anything broadly in specification should be OK :)
Hi I have an essentials 8 5 shower with 3 heat settings but it won't a just so it is hot all the time any suggestions thanks
hi galaxy g2000lx shower turns on then off solinoid check is 3.5 should i change the brushes thanks tim
This is almost certainly a faulty element in the heating tank. We have also made a video guide covering this, called ''Testing a heating tank element inside an electric shower''. You can find it on our channel.
The problem, depending on the age of the shower, is either a faulty flow valve or if the shower is the newer version, the shower needs to be re commissioned, and if this does not work it needs a new front cover.