Thank you. My brake shop couldn't fix my brake problem so I fixed it myself with this adjustment. I got bad advice from many other brake "experts" on my rear disc brake conversion on my 1979 Jeep CJ-7. This deserves more views!
Of all the videos made on these rear disc brakes for adjusting the parking brake, this one is by far the easiest to understand and follow. Well done Michael you did a great job in this video.
"It's soooooo easy to do" And then clearly demonstrates that it is not. The concept is easy to understand and procedure simple, but hitting the right spot on the ratchet mechanism is not easy. I recommend trying one of those 12 sided levers some are making. More positions, more likely to nail it in a short period of time. Great video, and thanks for sharing the knowledge.
I want to thank you for posting this video. I have these same calipers on the rear of my third gen Firebird and the E-brake has not worked for over 30 years until today. It only took me a few minutes to fix something that was bad for so long I had given up on ever fixing it. Thanks again!!!!
Great tips for adjusting these calipers! Using the nut on the outside of your wrench to keep the adjuster from dropping into the bore is a great idea, especially if you're making adjustments with the caliper still on the car. Thanks!
I’ve seen to set the gap 1/16th of an inch. I’ve been able to easily set the parking brake. However, my drivers side parking brake is not leaking fluid, but it is pulling in air and making it impossible to bleed. I have a tube run up to the master cylinder with check valve bleed screws. It’s pulling in a lot of air and it’s just that one side. I know these calipers fairly well. Apparently, not well enough.
Have never had that happen. I have sometimes let it sit overnight or more to allow air bubbles to move up and out of the caliper. It works pretty well if you have the time. Don't think that it would work if there are humps in the line to trap air bubbles. i Have had air entering when attempting power bleeding at the caliper. Air is pulled past the seals in the master cylinder where the pedal lever enters it and with pump hooked up to the bleeder.
I've watched many of these videos concerning adjustment. Yours is good, but none clearly state whether that gap size represents the "Brake Applied" distance or the Brake Released" distance. From your video I can tell that it's "Brake Applied" gap distance, so thank you for that.
Is it require to bleed the brakes after this? To be someone in the car with foot on brake pedal and someone to release the bleeder to take air out? Or if i do this on the car is no need to bleed?
to bad that lever doesn't have a 12 point instead of a coarse 6 point ,when I need to adjust mine I just apply the park brake on and off about 10 times and she's good again .
What if my ratchet mechanism does not work? Is that possible? when I turn it into the opposite direction, I feel some resistance, yes. But cycling it forth and back doesn't do anything to the position - so no adjustment at all. Needless to say that I'm doing it exactly as in the video. Any solutions?
Hi Marvin it is a seized internal mechanism replace caliper or disassemble internal piston clean it up and reinstall it. Silicone grease it and try to adjust again. This may get your adjuster working until it seizes again. fyi M
@@sanleandroplayersterryguil6142 ahmm :( not want i wanted to hear but, thanks for confirming that this mighty be the issue. Two questions: do you know where to get auch piston fora '78 Seville? I couldn't find one yet (Rockauto etc.), Seems pretty hard. Also a complete caliper with piston ... Other question: do you know how to get that internal mechanic out? Doesn't seem possible. And before I destroy that - would you recommend to just put it in with 6 mm of play instead of the maximum of 3 mm (1/8inch) recommended? Actually I'm kind lost right know. But would like to make it work the best it can.
Thank you. My brake shop couldn't fix my brake problem so I fixed it myself with this adjustment. I got bad advice from many other brake "experts" on my rear disc brake conversion on my 1979 Jeep CJ-7. This deserves more views!
A lot of bad info out there glad you got it done.
Of all the videos made on these rear disc brakes for adjusting the parking brake, this one is by far the easiest to understand and follow. Well done Michael you did a great job in this video.
thanks glad to help
"It's soooooo easy to do" And then clearly demonstrates that it is not. The concept is easy to understand and procedure simple, but hitting the right spot on the ratchet mechanism is not easy. I recommend trying one of those 12 sided levers some are making. More positions, more likely to nail it in a short period of time. Great video, and thanks for sharing the knowledge.
I want to thank you for posting this video. I have these same calipers on the rear of my third gen Firebird and the E-brake has not worked for over 30 years until today. It only took me a few minutes to fix something that was bad for so long I had given up on ever fixing it. Thanks again!!!!
Thanks glad it helped . a lot of bad information out there.
Great tips for adjusting these calipers! Using the nut on the outside of your wrench to keep the adjuster from dropping into the bore is a great idea, especially if you're making adjustments with the caliper still on the car. Thanks!
Glad to help
Greetings, thanks for the video, that adjustment also helps to improve the brakes
Yes it does!
great video exactly what i was look for.
Awesome...did this on the car, worked fantastic! Thank you...
Excellent
I’ve seen to set the gap 1/16th of an inch. I’ve been able to easily set the parking brake. However, my drivers side parking brake is not leaking fluid, but it is pulling in air and making it impossible to bleed. I have a tube run up to the master cylinder with check valve bleed screws. It’s pulling in a lot of air and it’s just that one side. I know these calipers fairly well. Apparently, not well enough.
Great Video! 💯
Have never had that happen.
I have sometimes let it sit overnight or more to allow air bubbles to move up and out of the caliper.
It works pretty well if you have the time.
Don't think that it would work if there are humps in the line to trap air bubbles.
i Have had air entering when attempting power bleeding at the caliper.
Air is pulled past the seals in the master cylinder where the pedal lever enters it and with pump hooked up to the bleeder.
Hydraulics/brake lines have to be disconnected, correct?
I've watched many of these videos concerning adjustment. Yours is good, but none clearly state whether that gap size represents the "Brake Applied" distance or the Brake Released" distance. From your video I can tell that it's "Brake Applied" gap distance, so thank you for that.
Glad to help
Is it require to bleed the brakes after this? To be someone in the car with foot on brake pedal and someone to release the bleeder to take air out? Or if i do this on the car is no need to bleed?
Cool I’ll try it tomorrow
Thanks so much
Hi! Is this for hand brake or for foot brake please?
U can do this on the car without disconnecting the break lines.
Ebrake cables ned to be discinnected.
to bad that lever doesn't have a 12 point instead of a coarse 6 point ,when I need to adjust mine I just apply the park brake on and off about 10 times and she's good again .
What if my ratchet mechanism does not work? Is that possible?
when I turn it into the opposite direction, I feel some resistance, yes. But cycling it forth and back doesn't do anything to the position - so no adjustment at all.
Needless to say that I'm doing it exactly as in the video.
Any solutions?
Hi Marvin
it is a seized internal mechanism replace caliper or disassemble internal piston clean it up and reinstall it.
Silicone grease it and try to adjust again.
This may get your adjuster working until it seizes again.
fyi
M
@@sanleandroplayersterryguil6142 ahmm :( not want i wanted to hear but, thanks for confirming that this mighty be the issue.
Two questions: do you know where to get auch piston fora '78 Seville? I couldn't find one yet (Rockauto etc.), Seems pretty hard. Also a complete caliper with piston ...
Other question: do you know how to get that internal mechanic out? Doesn't seem possible.
And before I destroy that - would you recommend to just put it in with 6 mm of play instead of the maximum of 3 mm (1/8inch) recommended?
Actually I'm kind lost right know. But would like to make it work the best it can.
You do this with the pads on the caliper? Just got new calipers never did this before but I think I can get it
You can do it.
@@sanleandroplayersterryguil6142I did it!!!!
should work the same if caliper in video is same as yours
yes add brake fluid and bleed the brakes, find a video and educate yourself