Thanks for the new video. I just wanted to tell my experiences on that Dillon 1050 crimp remover. It does its job but I don't like it. Because it pushes the material up from the crimp and many times leave sharp partly detached ring of brass. Numerous times I have had that nasty spike punkture my finger when gaging ammo and also fingering for proud primers. So what I prefer to do, even though it is extra step. Is using countersink drill bit on drill and chamfering every crimped pockets. Fortunately you only have to do it once and it is quite fast process. I wouldn't mind about the tightness of primer pocket and I dare to claim that the dillon crimp remover is not enlargening the hole. At least I have never had to enlarge that primer hole. If there is good chamfer, new primer will definitely go in. Crushed primers have always happened because primer hit the sharp edge and gets crushed as nothing is guiding it in. Then thing about the Ballistic tools go - no-go primer gage. I used it only to indicate loose primer pockets. However I had to grind the no-go side to work properly. Measured it and it was .1755". Upper tolerance for small primer pocket is .1745". And for example CCI 400 size is .1752". You can clearly see that it was useless to indicate loose pockets as you could not insert it in on loose pocket where CCI 400 would simply just drop off. Fortunately it was too big and reducing the size is not a problem. Being the other way would have been different story..
I was intrigued by your comments, especially the measurements of the gauges. I measured mine several times with a Mitutoyo and a Starrett micrometer, both with .0001 (tenths) scales and I read .1747 +/- .0001 repeatedly with both mics on the NoGo. The Go pin measured .1731 +/- .0001 repeatedly with both mics. I measured a single CCI small rifle and a CCI #41 (special military primer with harder body) and got .1755 for both. Yes, I probably should have measured ten of each primer and some Winchester and Federals as well. As I mentioned near the end of the video, I'm about to process about 2,000 rounds and a lot of them still have crimps intact, so we'll see if the 1050 is doing a good job. I've not had a problem with crushed primers with my 9mm, .223 or .45 loading and all of those have some crimped pockets here and there. I will freely admit that I haven't paid that much attention to that problem and there certainly are bad rounds that jam up the works now and then and have to be discarded. I haven't been good about keeping a record of what went wrong and why, but I will try to keep good records during this upcoming run. Thanks for joining in the conversation. I'm smart enough to know I'm not smart, and rely upon others to help steer the ship.
@@RexRoach Hi Rex, and thanks for the shout out. I can shed a little light on the situation Ccorniit raised. Some of the early versions of the small primer gauge, the no-go side was 0.1752 nominal (if I recall correctly), so they were a few tenths larger. The reasoning behind this was that the max-primer on small primers is 0.1765, and typical primers were running at 0.1755, so the no-go side was sized to be slightly smaller than typical primers, rather than to the SAAMI max-pocket. The gauges for the last couple years are 0.1745 + 0.0002 no-go, so more closely aligned with SAAMI max pocket rather than sizing it to be slightly smaller than primer typical diameter. This does mean more "false positives" on pockets that may still barely hold a primer, but it seems like it was more in line with customer expectations and the change was based on customer feedback.
@@ballistictools Thanks so much for your input. So my measurement of .1747 falls within your .1745 +.0002 spec. Good to know I can do a decent measurement. I really appreciate your input into the conversation.
Very informative video, Thank you for posting it for those that don`t know. I didnt need this information because i`ve been reloading for 50yrs, but its GREAT to see someone doing this to help those who are just beginning in reloading. I only watched it because it was interesting to me how you explained things so clearly. That alone was enough for me to watch the whole video.
Thank you, Larry. Please feel free to call me out on any errors. I love it when experienced people watch and keep me honest and on track. Not only that, the old timers usually know a lot of tricks they can pass along in the comments.
This has been very helpful, I just got a super swage 600, and was having a hard time figuring it out. Your explanation with the cut case was just what I needed.
Great information on an important feature of the 1050. I've just been using a cutaway case to set the crimp, most of my brass is either not crimped or the crimp was previously removed. It did come into play recently however, I bought some .45 Colt range brass to finish out a run that caliber. It contained some Herters .45 Colt brass that had rather tight primer pockets with a very sharp edge that caused a few crushed primers. I increased the crimp removal stroke and then resorted to chamfering the primer pockets to ease in new primers. Thanks again for your attention to the Dillon 1050.
I have a Dillon Super Swage 600 and have always stressed over the too much vs. not enough crimp removal issue....After watching your presentation I purchased the 3 gage pack. Go/No Go is just the thing to soothe the savage beast of obsessional measurement..Thanks for the video..
You're welcome. It's wonderful to be able to easily and accurately measure your results so you are not just stabbing in the dark hoping for a good result. "...soothe the savage beast of obsessional measurement." I love it! I will do my best to remember that for the future and give Ken Alexander credit.
Nice job......cut-away cartridge was awesome.....very visual and to the point with no “hand waving” or smoke and mirrors. I have the xl650 so I do all mine on the Dillon stand-alone Swager.
Really informative video !! Thank you Sir for your diligence in teaching us new comers to the reloading world! Will definitely return to learn from an experienced master of the craft!-john
Well done Rex! I'm new to that caliber and just starting to set my 1050 up for it so this info is very helpful. Large wild hogs, 405# and 315# treed my neighbors grand daughter one evening. They charged me but with the Lords help I won. 223 too small. Changing the toolhead from the RL to the Super 1050 video was helpful too. Look forward to the trimming video. Thanks! I'm off to Ballistic Tools now ;^) Don
I use neck bushing dies a lot, and the BallisticTools gauge for measuring case neck inside diameter is a jewel. The three gauge package that I referenced includes the two go-no-go gauges shown in the video plus a neck gauge for .224 and .308.
I’ve always used a primer pocket reamer. About $10 hand tool, 100% effective, inspectable primer hole. I’ve always seen the swage tools as a genius invention by the boys in marketing.
You mentioned a gauge for case mouths. Well just last night I managed to mix 200+ resized cases with 200+ un-resized cases. They had all been wet tumbled and looked virtually identical. I started using a bullet to check the mouths but that was very unreliable. Using an expander ball from a resizing die was the ticket. It either fell into the un-resized mouths with no to very little effort or stopped firmly against a resized case mouth. I didn't have to resize any cases unnecessarily. It doesn't replace a cool tool that accurately measures the neck tension but it will get you out of a pickle. Very good job making that cutaway case Rex.
This is for people that think that the “ flash hole “ has to be tinkered with. The crimp just needs to be chamfered, as with the case neck. Spend lots of money and read the “ warnings”. Match ammo has a thicker primer
Rex, I’ll probably never own a 1050 as my reloading needs in the UK relate to several 10’s of rounds at a time (for several different calibre’s) rather than many 100’s of rounds but I do enjoy & look forward to your presentations on various aspects of the 1050.
Thank you very much. I hope you saw my recent video about the Wilson hand dies as well as the full version several years ago. For those who load "several 10s of rounds" and are looking for ultimate precision, the Wilson dies are wonderful. Plus they are soooo relaxing to use.
thanks Rex, great info for anyone not knowing what a crimp is or how the 1050 removes it. I have a 1050 and 1100 both now have mark7 autodrives on them. I am still struggling getting a good crimp before or after the auto drives. I have set them up to spec per Dillon and use a cut away setup case, still not crimping properly and have to resort to using the Super Swage, defeating my intent of prepping in one step. Any suggestions on troubleshooting more advanced issues like this? Thanks again.
Sam, congratulations on having such a deluxe setup. I'm a bit confused as to what you mean when you say, "I am still struggling getting a good crimp before or after the auto drives." Are you still talking about removing the primer pocket crimps and that you weren't able to remove them even before you added the electric drives? I assume (and we know all about THAT word) you are talking about primer pocket crimp removal and not bullet crimping because you are using the Super Swage as a last resort. At this point in the discussion, I would urge you to get the gauges from Ballistic Tools so you can easily measure the results of any and all adjustments. You've spent a LOT of money on a fabulous setup. It would be a shame to fall short of its potential for a small additional cost. I'm always happy to offer my 2¢ (current market value 1/10,000 of a Shekel) toward solving problems. If you want to send some pictures to my email along with more details to clarify "still not crimping properly", I'll be glad to help all I can. rexroach@gmail.com
Thank You Rex!! You keep saving me soooo much hassle!!! This was exactly what I have been struggling with. I am having problems with getting a good primer seat on my 1050. Wonder if it is my crimp removal process adjustment?
I did order and receive, (quickly I might add) a set of Ballistic Tools primer pocket gauges. Nice items and fast delivery in the middle of the C-19 hysteria.
Trying to decide if I want to get the RL1100. I already have a 650, but the swage feature for 223 is nice, but it is gonna cost me $2k. I'd probably have the 1100 dedicated to 223. Prep and load. Worth it or should I just get the 750 instead and hand swage?
Im still learning but from the look of it the go no go tool is a matter of width not height so Adjusting it to high will not cause the no go to the fit in but rather damage the firing tube at the top of the primer hole
Reason I ask, I generally run mine to bottom out where it seems to radius the mouth of the primer pocket. New primers still seem to seat with good resistance, and you don’t get the occasional primer cup seeming to catch the edge of the primer pocket and get peeled back.
@@JeffinTD OK, I ran a test and, YES, you can enlarge the primer pocket so far the No Go gauge will go in (easily, I might add). However, I was getting a really significant amount of resistance to the press operating handle at that point, so I wouldn't think you would accidentally overdo the process. Strictly going by feel, the point where you begin feel any resistance is not enough. About 1/2 - 3/4 turn more from that point seems about right. On the other hand, it sure is nice having the gauge to let you creep up on the setting.
Very interesting. Thanks for doing that. I generally don’t have mine set mine so hard that the machine has much more than a slight bump. I’ll have to get a set of those gauges.
Directly from Dillon unless you have a well-stocked local source. Call them and talk. That’s important as they will insure you get what you need. Nothing more frustrating than a new piece of equipment and it’s missing one tiny, critical part. There are only two models. The "new" RL is smoother, but more limited on case length. Chances are it’s the better choice as few people reload cartridges longer than 308 in large volume. It would certainly be my choice.
Ha, ha! No, it's a box CD collection that an RCA executive put together from master tapes. This executive grew up in Sweden and became one of the foremost authorities on Elvis's music, so he was a natural to produce the set. You are very observant.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.82[2/2] เมาท์มอยกับ 3 สาวเพื่อนซี้ ที่พร้อมขยี้พ่อหมีได้ทุกเมื่อ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Wwn7WnylNtQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![[#SHORTS CLIP] ใช้ของของตัวเองไปเลยสิคะ l ซานิเบาได้เบา l One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ea_mTywx2p4/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the new video. I just wanted to tell my experiences on that Dillon 1050 crimp remover. It does its job but I don't like it. Because it pushes the material up from the crimp and many times leave sharp partly detached ring of brass. Numerous times I have had that nasty spike punkture my finger when gaging ammo and also fingering for proud primers. So what I prefer to do, even though it is extra step. Is using countersink drill bit on drill and chamfering every crimped pockets. Fortunately you only have to do it once and it is quite fast process. I wouldn't mind about the tightness of primer pocket and I dare to claim that the dillon crimp remover is not enlargening the hole. At least I have never had to enlarge that primer hole. If there is good chamfer, new primer will definitely go in. Crushed primers have always happened because primer hit the sharp edge and gets crushed as nothing is guiding it in.
Then thing about the Ballistic tools go - no-go primer gage. I used it only to indicate loose primer pockets. However I had to grind the no-go side to work properly. Measured it and it was .1755". Upper tolerance for small primer pocket is .1745". And for example CCI 400 size is .1752". You can clearly see that it was useless to indicate loose pockets as you could not insert it in on loose pocket where CCI 400 would simply just drop off. Fortunately it was too big and reducing the size is not a problem. Being the other way would have been different story..
I was intrigued by your comments, especially the measurements of the gauges. I measured mine several times with a Mitutoyo and a Starrett micrometer, both with .0001 (tenths) scales and I read .1747 +/- .0001 repeatedly with both mics on the NoGo. The Go pin measured .1731 +/- .0001 repeatedly with both mics. I measured a single CCI small rifle and a CCI #41 (special military primer with harder body) and got .1755 for both. Yes, I probably should have measured ten of each primer and some Winchester and Federals as well.
As I mentioned near the end of the video, I'm about to process about 2,000 rounds and a lot of them still have crimps intact, so we'll see if the 1050 is doing a good job. I've not had a problem with crushed primers with my 9mm, .223 or .45 loading and all of those have some crimped pockets here and there. I will freely admit that I haven't paid that much attention to that problem and there certainly are bad rounds that jam up the works now and then and have to be discarded. I haven't been good about keeping a record of what went wrong and why, but I will try to keep good records during this upcoming run.
Thanks for joining in the conversation. I'm smart enough to know I'm not smart, and rely upon others to help steer the ship.
@@RexRoach Hi Rex, and thanks for the shout out. I can shed a little light on the situation Ccorniit raised. Some of the early versions of the small primer gauge, the no-go side was 0.1752 nominal (if I recall correctly), so they were a few tenths larger. The reasoning behind this was that the max-primer on small primers is 0.1765, and typical primers were running at 0.1755, so the no-go side was sized to be slightly smaller than typical primers, rather than to the SAAMI max-pocket.
The gauges for the last couple years are 0.1745 + 0.0002 no-go, so more closely aligned with SAAMI max pocket rather than sizing it to be slightly smaller than primer typical diameter. This does mean more "false positives" on pockets that may still barely hold a primer, but it seems like it was more in line with customer expectations and the change was based on customer feedback.
@@ballistictools Thanks so much for your input. So my measurement of .1747 falls within your .1745 +.0002 spec. Good to know I can do a decent measurement. I really appreciate your input into the conversation.
This by far has been the best explanation on crimped brass. Thank you for your time and knowledge. To a new hand loader these videos are great info.
Thank you so much. Comments like this make it all worthwhile. It's all about sharing the knowledge.
excellent explanation of the 1050 Dillon crimp removal tooling
Thanks a bunch for the video! This is the best one I’ve seen yet about the crimp. And the info about the press is a bonus.
Very informative video, Thank you for posting it for those that don`t know. I didnt need this information because i`ve been reloading for 50yrs, but its GREAT to see someone doing this to help those who are just beginning in reloading. I only watched it because it was interesting to me how you explained things so clearly. That alone was enough for me to watch the whole video.
Thank you, Larry. Please feel free to call me out on any errors. I love it when experienced people watch and keep me honest and on track. Not only that, the old timers usually know a lot of tricks they can pass along in the comments.
This has been very helpful, I just got a super swage 600, and was having a hard time figuring it out. Your explanation with the cut case was just what I needed.
Thanks so much. Very encouraging.
This is the best explanation I've seen of this feature, it really demystifies this adjustment. Thanks for the video!
Great Thanks from Russia, the most complete visualization of crimp
Good quality close-up video, better than any ammo video I've seen.
From one hand loader to another...well done sir.
Great information on an important feature of the 1050. I've just been using a cutaway case to set the crimp, most of my brass is either not crimped or the crimp was previously removed. It did come into play recently however, I bought some .45 Colt range brass to finish out a run that caliber. It contained some Herters .45 Colt brass that had rather tight primer pockets with a very sharp edge that caused a few crushed primers. I increased the crimp removal stroke and then resorted to chamfering the primer pockets to ease in new primers. Thanks again for your attention to the Dillon 1050.
Great information. I failed to mention that sometimes non-military brass needs primer pocket fixin' as well.
Good content, sir. I especially liked the cutaway brass that showed how the tool/feature works. Thanks for the video.
I really love the information in your videos. Your videos are clear and concise. I hope you keep cranking out more videos. Thanks so much.
I have a Dillon Super Swage 600 and have always stressed over the too much vs. not enough crimp removal issue....After watching your presentation I purchased the 3 gage pack. Go/No Go is just the thing to soothe the savage beast of obsessional measurement..Thanks for the video..
You're welcome. It's wonderful to be able to easily and accurately measure your results so you are not just stabbing in the dark hoping for a good result.
"...soothe the savage beast of obsessional measurement." I love it! I will do my best to remember that for the future and give Ken Alexander credit.
Nice job......cut-away cartridge was awesome.....very visual and to the point with no “hand waving” or smoke and mirrors. I have the xl650 so I do all mine on the Dillon stand-alone Swager.
Thanks very much. Most encouraging.
Really informative video !! Thank you Sir for your diligence in teaching us new comers to the reloading world! Will definitely return to learn from an experienced master of the craft!-john
Thanks Rex, now I know what a crimped primer pocket looks like!
Right / left / up / down - it's all the same. Great information, thank you.
Well done Rex! I'm new to that caliber and just starting to set my 1050 up for it so this info is very helpful. Large wild hogs, 405# and 315# treed my neighbors grand daughter one evening. They charged me but with the Lords help I won. 223 too small. Changing the toolhead from the RL to the Super 1050 video was helpful too. Look forward to the trimming video. Thanks! I'm off to Ballistic Tools now ;^) Don
I use neck bushing dies a lot, and the BallisticTools gauge for measuring case neck inside diameter is a jewel. The three gauge package that I referenced includes the two go-no-go gauges shown in the video plus a neck gauge for .224 and .308.
txs for tip on primer gauge at ballistic tool.
Thanks for showing the gages I just ordered
Thanks for the new video. Great info.
I’ve always used a primer pocket reamer. About $10 hand tool, 100% effective, inspectable primer hole. I’ve always seen the swage tools as a genius invention by the boys in marketing.
You mentioned a gauge for case mouths. Well just last night I managed to mix 200+ resized cases with 200+ un-resized cases. They had all been wet tumbled and looked virtually identical. I started using a bullet to check the mouths but that was very unreliable. Using an expander ball from a resizing die was the ticket. It either fell into the un-resized mouths with no to very little effort or stopped firmly against a resized case mouth. I didn't have to resize any cases unnecessarily. It doesn't replace a cool tool that accurately measures the neck tension but it will get you out of a pickle. Very good job making that cutaway case Rex.
Great ingenuity, Big B. That was an elegant solution that most would not have thought to do.
Awesome video thank you
Great visual
Great video.
Thank You Sir For Good Video
Thank you so much for explaining that..
This is for people that think that the “ flash hole “ has to be tinkered with. The crimp just needs to be chamfered, as with the case neck. Spend lots of money and read the “ warnings”.
Match ammo has a thicker primer
Rex, I’ll probably never own a 1050 as my reloading needs in the UK relate to several 10’s of rounds at a time (for several different calibre’s) rather than many 100’s of rounds but I do enjoy & look forward to your presentations on various aspects of the 1050.
Thank you very much. I hope you saw my recent video about the Wilson hand dies as well as the full version several years ago. For those who load "several 10s of rounds" and are looking for ultimate precision, the Wilson dies are wonderful. Plus they are soooo relaxing to use.
need to read instructions on ballistics gauge where the groove starts is the proper pocket depth
Thanks for info Pal
Tank you for making this video learned a lot you might Invest in a red and green permit marker so can color code you go and no go make thing easier
Indeed. Great idea. Thanks.
Great video!
thanks Rex, great info for anyone not knowing what a crimp is or how the 1050 removes it. I have a 1050 and 1100 both now have mark7 autodrives on them. I am still struggling getting a good crimp before or after the auto drives. I have set them up to spec per Dillon and use a cut away setup case, still not crimping properly and have to resort to using the Super Swage, defeating my intent of prepping in one step. Any suggestions on troubleshooting more advanced issues like this? Thanks again.
Sam, congratulations on having such a deluxe setup. I'm a bit confused as to what you mean when you say, "I am still struggling getting a good crimp before or after the auto drives." Are you still talking about removing the primer pocket crimps and that you weren't able to remove them even before you added the electric drives? I assume (and we know all about THAT word) you are talking about primer pocket crimp removal and not bullet crimping because you are using the Super Swage as a last resort.
At this point in the discussion, I would urge you to get the gauges from Ballistic Tools so you can easily measure the results of any and all adjustments. You've spent a LOT of money on a fabulous setup. It would be a shame to fall short of its potential for a small additional cost.
I'm always happy to offer my 2¢ (current market value 1/10,000 of a Shekel) toward solving problems. If you want to send some pictures to my email along with more details to clarify "still not crimping properly", I'll be glad to help all I can. rexroach@gmail.com
@@RexRoach not sure if my email went through to you or not
Thank You Rex!! You keep saving me soooo much hassle!!! This was exactly what I have been struggling with. I am having problems with getting a good primer seat on my 1050. Wonder if it is my crimp removal process adjustment?
Friend, that makes me very happy. Thank you!
I did order and receive, (quickly I might add) a set of Ballistic Tools primer pocket gauges. Nice items and fast delivery in the middle of the C-19 hysteria.
@@j.settle6448 Great! Good to hear that.
Trying to decide if I want to get the RL1100. I already have a 650, but the swage feature for 223 is nice, but it is gonna cost me $2k. I'd probably have the 1100 dedicated to 223. Prep and load. Worth it or should I just get the 750 instead and hand swage?
Have you been able to adjust that swage rod too high and have the no-go gauge drop into a primer pocket?
That's an excellent question and I don't know the answer, but I will find out today. I'm guessing it's possible. We'll see.
Im still learning but from the look of it the go no go tool is a matter of width not height so Adjusting it to high will not cause the no go to the fit in but rather damage the firing tube at the top of the primer hole
Reason I ask, I generally run mine to bottom out where it seems to radius the mouth of the primer pocket. New primers still seem to seat with good resistance, and you don’t get the occasional primer cup seeming to catch the edge of the primer pocket and get peeled back.
@@JeffinTD OK, I ran a test and, YES, you can enlarge the primer pocket so far the No Go gauge will go in (easily, I might add). However, I was getting a really significant amount of resistance to the press operating handle at that point, so I wouldn't think you would accidentally overdo the process.
Strictly going by feel, the point where you begin feel any resistance is not enough. About 1/2 - 3/4 turn more from that point seems about right. On the other hand, it sure is nice having the gauge to let you creep up on the setting.
Very interesting. Thanks for doing that. I generally don’t have mine set mine so hard that the machine has much more than a slight bump.
I’ll have to get a set of those gauges.
Best place to get a Dillon and which 1050 to purchase?
Directly from Dillon unless you have a well-stocked local source. Call them and talk. That’s important as they will insure you get what you need. Nothing more frustrating than a new piece of equipment and it’s missing one tiny, critical part. There are only two models. The "new" RL is smoother, but more limited on case length. Chances are it’s the better choice as few people reload cartridges longer than 308 in large volume. It would certainly be my choice.
@@RexRoach thank you I appreciate it!
You have an Elvis VHS tape?
Ha, ha! No, it's a box CD collection that an RCA executive put together from master tapes. This executive grew up in Sweden and became one of the foremost authorities on Elvis's music, so he was a natural to produce the set. You are very observant.