Some gases, hydrogen/carbon monoxide will produce a small voltage when passed over certain metals with catalytic properties, I'm thinking platinum palladium etc.
I've seen argon lamps with the same envelope as that neon one. One of them was in a heated diode gas detector. I believe it was used as a UV source to stabilse the operation of a neon relaxation oscillator.
Since white is a combination of the colors it doesn't belong in the middle of the spectrum. For the diffraction grating to work and not just act like a mirror it needs to be illuminated with a very narrow beam of light. You can make a simple slit with two razor blades put close together.
The eeprom probably has calibration data for the sensor 'chips'. And I hink there is some very thin layer on top of all those contacts, that is impossible to see in normal light - as you mention the yellow layer.
You keep saying "gas", but there isn't anything there turning fluid into gas. It just checks the disvolved gas content and more of the fluid with various methods. One trick used on blood oxygen sensors is IR absorbsion vs red absorbsion. The grating is likely used to see that and other wavelengths the fluid passes. The sensors must be eletrochemical sensors of various kinds (don't know details), and possibly temprature/conductivity. You did show a pump in the last video, and the sample-taker. I would guess one of those would push/pull the fluid trough the sensors. The eeprom probably contains calibration factors for sensors/fluids in the cartridge, and also counters/serial. For the printer, you totally want the board it connects to, since the print-head is likely some kind of serial-ish control. The cable have too few connections for 1:1 connection to the dots.
I agree most likely liquid not gas. The sensors are likely ion selective electrodes to measure blood electrolytes like K and Na. The black ovals are likely the magic ion selective material. See for example, www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/09542299.2016.1169560. The Ag/AgCl reference electrode, essential for this type of measurement was shown in part 1.
I have some of those thermal printer modules. Usually you need a transistor per each pixel of the thermal head. That's normally inside a single chip, like an uln2003 but with more outputs and better power capabilities. Also, the stepper motor usually moves the head AND the paper in the same cycle! Which means that you need precise control of its movement (at least know when you moved one step, then turn on the pixels for an X amount of time, turn them off, and continue the cycle). I think it only has a switch to detect it reached the end of the cycle (i.e. the paper advanced enough to form a new line). It's certainly possible to use it, but it's a PITA. I hope you manage to do it, because that'll be useful to learn how other people managed to fix this issue (I didn't do it because I got bored quickly enough).
@@PlaywithJunk There are >300 pixels wide, and the cable doesn't have enough wires. There are drivers inside the print-head, and you need to control them in order to print. Wrong connection/too long timing may or may not burn out individual pixels.
@@erlendse There will be a trio of drive chips, with a common clock and reset, and then separate data and enable signals to each, along with a 5V power supply, and then a 16-24VDC power supply via a few cores of the cable, plus a whole load of ground connections, plus some return data that is the print head temperature and the print head current, used to modulate the time the individual pixels are turned on so as to get consistent black irrespective of voltage and actual head temperature. Pretty complex to drive, best done by using the small board the printer is connected to, which will do all that, and only needs power and data sent in to it. Some of the clock signals are up to 10MHz depending on the paper feed rate, as you need to clock an entire line into the chips, and then strobe the outputs on for a certain period to print a single line, then advance the paper a single pixel up, and do it all again. Also need to have a cooling off time so there is no smearing of pixels vertically.
@@SeanBZA Yep, I found the manual for a controller, and the pinout. It's quite much: too much effort for something I don't have, and it would be hard to explain to someone else how to use. Basically, save the driver or forget it! Rather have ink ribbons all the way please!
Hallo! Sie sind doch ein Schweizer 🇨🇭 . Wieso reden Sie denn nicht deutsch bzw. schweizerdeutsch? Ich weiß: Sie sprechen anscheinend die Mehrheit an Leuten an, die in den USA etc. sind. Dort ist anscheinend die Zielgruppe am größten. Trotzdem finde ich es eigentlich sehr schade, wenn es denn schon einmal ein guter prinzipiell „deutsch sprachiger“ Kanal gibt, den man dann nur mit Mühe und Not versteht bzw. eigentlich immer nur Fragmente davon. Meine Muttersprache ist nun einmal deutsch, und nicht international Englisch. Im Umkehrschluss muss ich mir ja auch diese andere Sprache antun, wenn ich z.B. Retro PC Videos von amerikanischen Leuten sehen will. Die stellen ja auch nicht ihre Muttersprache deswegen um. Verstehen Sie das, was ich meine?!
Hallo David Ich verstehe sehr gut was Du meinst und manchmal würde ich auch mal gerne wieder ein Video auf Deutsch machen. Aber jetzt hab ich schon auf Englisch angefangen, da kann ich nich hin und her schalten. Und für einen 2. Kanal fehlt mir die Zeit. Meine überlegung damals war einfach. Mit Englisch erreicht man die ganze Welt, nicht nur die USA oder England. Es ist immer wieder überraschend woher die Kommentare kommen. Ein Tipp... versuch mal die Untertitel einzuschalten auf Deutsch. Das hilft vielleicht beim Verstehen... :-)
"Im not electroboom he love that"
😂👍
I am interested about circuits near photodiode and ADC. Are somewhere high resolution pictures available? Are pcbs available somewhere?
Some gases, hydrogen/carbon monoxide will produce a small voltage when passed over certain metals with catalytic properties, I'm thinking platinum palladium etc.
I've seen argon lamps with the same envelope as that neon one. One of them was in a heated diode gas detector. I believe it was used as a UV source to stabilse the operation of a neon relaxation oscillator.
Maybe that's an argon lamp too. Don't know... what color do they emit?
A bit of a bluish purple glow.
Since white is a combination of the colors it doesn't belong in the middle of the spectrum. For the diffraction grating to work and not just act like a mirror it needs to be illuminated with a very narrow beam of light. You can make a simple slit with two razor blades put close together.
The eeprom probably has calibration data for the sensor 'chips'. And I hink there is some very thin layer on top of all those contacts, that is impossible to see in normal light - as you mention the yellow layer.
Where’s the cartridge RFID detector?
You keep saying "gas", but there isn't anything there turning fluid into gas.
It just checks the disvolved gas content and more of the fluid with various methods.
One trick used on blood oxygen sensors is IR absorbsion vs red absorbsion.
The grating is likely used to see that and other wavelengths the fluid passes.
The sensors must be eletrochemical sensors of various kinds (don't know details), and possibly temprature/conductivity.
You did show a pump in the last video, and the sample-taker.
I would guess one of those would push/pull the fluid trough the sensors.
The eeprom probably contains calibration factors for sensors/fluids in the cartridge, and also counters/serial.
For the printer, you totally want the board it connects to, since the print-head is likely some kind of serial-ish control. The cable have too few connections for 1:1 connection to the dots.
I agree most likely liquid not gas. The sensors are likely ion selective electrodes to measure blood electrolytes like K and Na. The black ovals are likely the magic ion selective material. See for example, www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/09542299.2016.1169560. The Ag/AgCl reference electrode, essential for this type of measurement was shown in part 1.
Yeah it's dissolved gas
4C looks like capacitor🤔 so it detects change in capacitance with gas present?
Or resistance, or something more interesting with ac current.
I have some of those thermal printer modules. Usually you need a transistor per each pixel of the thermal head. That's normally inside a single chip, like an uln2003 but with more outputs and better power capabilities. Also, the stepper motor usually moves the head AND the paper in the same cycle! Which means that you need precise control of its movement (at least know when you moved one step, then turn on the pixels for an X amount of time, turn them off, and continue the cycle). I think it only has a switch to detect it reached the end of the cycle (i.e. the paper advanced enough to form a new line). It's certainly possible to use it, but it's a PITA. I hope you manage to do it, because that'll be useful to learn how other people managed to fix this issue (I didn't do it because I got bored quickly enough).
this one should be easier to drive because the head does not move. It covers the entire width of the paper.
@@PlaywithJunk nice! so you only need a lot of drivers to turn the pixels of the lines. that sounds reasonable
@@PlaywithJunk There are >300 pixels wide, and the cable doesn't have enough wires.
There are drivers inside the print-head, and you need to control them in order to print.
Wrong connection/too long timing may or may not burn out individual pixels.
@@erlendse There will be a trio of drive chips, with a common clock and reset, and then separate data and enable signals to each, along with a 5V power supply, and then a 16-24VDC power supply via a few cores of the cable, plus a whole load of ground connections, plus some return data that is the print head temperature and the print head current, used to modulate the time the individual pixels are turned on so as to get consistent black irrespective of voltage and actual head temperature.
Pretty complex to drive, best done by using the small board the printer is connected to, which will do all that, and only needs power and data sent in to it. Some of the clock signals are up to 10MHz depending on the paper feed rate, as you need to clock an entire line into the chips, and then strobe the outputs on for a certain period to print a single line, then advance the paper a single pixel up, and do it all again. Also need to have a cooling off time so there is no smearing of pixels vertically.
@@SeanBZA Yep, I found the manual for a controller, and the pinout.
It's quite much: too much effort for something I don't have, and it would be hard to explain to someone else how to use.
Basically, save the driver or forget it! Rather have ink ribbons all the way please!
The spectrum of the Sun isn't exactly continuous either.
That's certainly right, but for laymans use it's the closest we can get.
i want to ask you some questions
what is your profession
where do you work
what are you doing at work
because i want to be like you
150 euro? holy ..... O_o
This isn't chemistry, it's wizardry... :)
nth!
Hallo!
Sie sind doch ein Schweizer 🇨🇭 .
Wieso reden Sie denn nicht deutsch bzw. schweizerdeutsch?
Ich weiß: Sie sprechen anscheinend die Mehrheit an Leuten an, die in den USA etc. sind. Dort ist anscheinend die Zielgruppe am größten.
Trotzdem finde ich es eigentlich sehr schade, wenn es denn schon einmal ein guter prinzipiell „deutsch sprachiger“ Kanal gibt, den man dann nur mit Mühe und Not versteht bzw. eigentlich immer nur Fragmente davon.
Meine Muttersprache ist nun einmal deutsch, und nicht international Englisch.
Im Umkehrschluss muss ich mir ja auch diese andere Sprache antun, wenn ich z.B. Retro PC Videos von amerikanischen Leuten sehen will. Die stellen ja auch nicht ihre Muttersprache deswegen um.
Verstehen Sie das, was ich meine?!
Hallo David
Ich verstehe sehr gut was Du meinst und manchmal würde ich auch mal gerne wieder ein Video auf Deutsch machen. Aber jetzt hab ich schon auf Englisch angefangen, da kann ich nich hin und her schalten. Und für einen 2. Kanal fehlt mir die Zeit.
Meine überlegung damals war einfach. Mit Englisch erreicht man die ganze Welt, nicht nur die USA oder England. Es ist immer wieder überraschend woher die Kommentare kommen.
Ein Tipp... versuch mal die Untertitel einzuschalten auf Deutsch. Das hilft vielleicht beim Verstehen... :-)