TipL DONT remove the seat to avoid disconnecting the plug and throwing the SRS light on the dash, just tilt the seat back and there is plenty of room to fix the pipe without removing the seat.
Thank you. Same break, same location, same repair. 2013 SL55. Tilted seat vs. removing it. Used block of wood to prop it up while doing repair. Leak was clearly on the side of passenger seat. Easy to hear but, your video sped up troubleshooting of exact location. I went straight for the bend in bundle and pressed on it to hear leak change.
Thank You for making this video ! I have been dealing with this issue for months and have been afraid to take on the job until now. Your correct when you say reading the instructions is not enough. Having a visual walk through makes it much better. Now just need some muscles to lift the seat out of the car !
I found this video very useful fixing the lumbar support on my SL55. My air tube had failed in exactly the same place. One tip though, if you disconnect both batteries before disconnecting the seat connectors, you will not get the SRS fault, and you will not need to take the car to MB to have it re-set.
I've had my 2003 SL500 since 2005 and NEVER used this feature. I don't even knnow if it works. I'll try it out tomorrow. Everything that I know of works perfectly.
I just came across this video while working on some other items for my SL. Great and thorough walkthrough - so much that I thought I would give it a try after not having my seats working for about nine years now. I found the hose break under the same spot of my driver's seat! Performed the repair and was very hopeful. Checked passenger side as well and that one was fine. I tried the massage again and unfortunately, it did the same thing as before. When I hit the Pulse button the light there goes on for about 8-10 seconds and then goes off. No movement and pulse light will not turn on until the car is turned off and on again. Not sure where to go from here. Also regarding the SRS error - you don't need to remove any of the batteries if you don't have the keyless option. Just don't put your key into the ignition during the repair process and you'll be fine.
i am a mb tech. you could have saved a lot of time. let me know next time and i can give you my knowledge. i never remove the seat for this job. thanks for the vid. i do like how you work. very detail oriented.
I just unbolted the seat and moved it forward checked the pipe back and front of the drivers seat the pipe is ok,,, ? Have you any idea why both are not working I checked the fuse that's ok,, I also disconnected both batteries,, I brought the car with the massage seats not working all the other bits work on the seats ,,is it a star reset on them otherwise ?
Thank you so much for posting this walk through. With the info this video gives I was able to sort the seat in my SL500. The hardest bit is removing the seat, especially with the roof up as it was raining in Scotland (for a change!). I left the keys out of the ignition and did not get the SRS fault light. For info, my pipe was broken in exactly the same place as yours, and I also cut the other pipe at the front rather than risking breaking the push connection. Thanks again, very good, clear, work.
No problem - thanks for watching - actually an MB tech said you don't have to actually remove the seat, but it can be tilted backwards far enough to get access... I have pinned this comment for future reference.
Thanks to all of you for the information specially Maseratiguy. I believe that repair at a shop is several hundred 🤑🤑🤑I also had the SRS issue on my Honda when I disconnected the yellow plug, the shop had to reset the computer.
Hi Mguy. Thanks heaps for this video. Without it I would not have had the confidence to try and fix my seat. I have a 2007 CL500 purchased recently. The seats on your SL look very similar to mine. None of the Multicontour bits worked when I bought the car and there was a very noticeable air leak on the passenger seat / centre console side at the junction of the the seat and seat back. This car, from seat wear, often had a passenger and maybe often moved the seat forward causing the leak at this junction. I tried unbolting the sear and leaning it forward or back but could not get proper access to the area under consideration partly because I could not see how to get the protective plastic cover off the area. So seat out. On this CL there are 2 small electrical connections which just pull out and stay with the seat. (While writing this I wonder if they needed taking out as they were from the seat to the electrical connector). Two other rectangular connectors (a white and yellow) had to be removed. A bit difficult but notches either side that need pushing in and then the connector slides out. Most worrisome was removing the air hose from the air hose T junction. It is one of those plastic connectors that snap on. Gently prising 2 of the 'teeth' away with small flat screwdrivers and pulling on the other end did the trick (2 people). Last but just as difficult was freeing the whole cable (elec and air) from the metal it was attached to as support (not a bracket as on the CL). There was an obvious lever/latch thingy that no amount of pushing in would budge. Pulling it back / out though allows sliding the cable off the end of the metal rod very easily!! Seat out of the car carefully with 2 people. One big strong person maybe but you would easily scratch the interior and on a hard roof CL there is not the room compared to an SL. Next most difficult part was removing the plastic cover of the seat junction. There's 3 or 4 latches but the hardest is what looks like the head of a plastic pop rivet. It is actually the head of a threaded piece of plastic - not a screw as the threads don't join but are each a circle in themselves. When the car is put together this would be pushed hard through the plastic and hole behind and hold it very firmly. It can be removed slowly with 1 or 2 flat screwdrivers and gradually hinge it upwards. Now at long last to the cable containing elec wires (many) and the air hose (which is my case I need a 6mm Pope plastic tubing the same as Guy but larger.) Cut the covering very carefully. In my case it was sticky (maybe due to age) black cloth tape. I went straight to the area I could hear air coming from when the seat was in the car. A crack almost right through the pipe!! I thought I had better cut back more tape and give room to cut some pipe and put a new spliced pipe in. Just as well as there were 3 cracks in all along 2-3 inches of pipe!! Now I have glue, 6mm tubing, small zip locks and cloth tape. (I will put the tape on 'backwards' so the glue does not stick to the wiring and then on the correct way over the top). That job is in the coming days when I get time but I am quite confident certainly of fixing this issue and that the seats will work as they should. Maybe I'm being too positive but time will tell.
Great vid, very useful. I have the same problem plus the bottom part of the seat doesn't heat up. So I guess I will have to replace the heating element inside the seat as well.
Was there not enough room to move the hole seat forward towards the glove box after unbolting the seat from the floor ? To get to the brake in the line ?
thank God the seat control computer detects pump demand is greater than limits. $150 Autel Maxidiag scanner can reset all module, I bet that includes seat SRS
Good clip how did you know the leak position, I have same car with same problem I was told by dealership I needed a full set of air cussions for the seat. Love some feed back
It’s usually where the cable bundle bends the most, but there’s luck involved! If you have to strip off all the outer covering it’s no big problem, just use cable ties to secure it together again. Good luck!
Great video! I need remove my bottom driver side seat cover for my Mercedes SL63 AMG R230 & replace with new bottom seat cover. How to remove the seat cover do you know? Appreciate your help!
I have a 2005 SL500 and I’ve replaced the radio with the Pioneer 8200 NEX. After install, which came out great, I noticed the AC was not getting cold anymore. I researched this and found out that the AC has to be reset. I’ve read that to reset the AC you turn the key to number 3 position, press the defrost and recirculating air buttons simultaneously unit the LED lights start to flash, turn the key off for 60 seconds, then start the car. Doesn’t work for me. Wondering if you would know how to reset this?
Very helpful thanks for the great vid! Im dealing with this now my break in the hose was not as easy to find. I was wondering if you could tell me what the vac hose is just under the controls of the seat that is a connector but not connected to anything almost makes me think a line was deleted but left open? Thanks in advance
Hi mr Maserati guy . I have a car like yours 04 with 23k m on it and I'm trying to find out how to fix the massage thing , it doesn't work and there is a hissing sound from the seat back . What is your take on that ?? I like the wheels you have on your car very much . Also the right front starts to sag in about 2 days and when I start the car the , to low , sign appears but it disappears in a minute and the car is perfectly leveled , the seller is suppose to fix that , but do you know anything about that ? Thank you and I have watched some of your videos and like your CL class , it's very nice, although I don't know what cars you have today.
If you still have that 04. That happened to mine after it had been sitting in the garage for several weeks. Mine had the body low light on until I pressed and cycled body raze once and it's been fine ever since. Yours has very low mileage a d that is good. I followed some advice from a European man and had the ABC fluid and filter changed, and I will do that every few years as that system can cost many thousands 💰💰💰💰 to repair 😟. I already replaced 2 front struts around 2600 US dollars 💸
Hi, my seat lumbers don’t work and I’ve watched your video and I hear the sound of air leaking from both my seats and I took them both out and checked my lines where you checked yours and I have no cracks or splits, now I’m at a lost. 🤷🏽♂️
@@mguytv I actually took the seat out and found that the air lines are not broken or cracked! So I unplugged them and plugged the it while it was running and I can hear the pneumatic pump shut off as it should so, I think the bladders in both seats are corroded.
a geat video !! very very helpful....now is this a similar procedure on the w209? my clk55 cabrio is a cheirshed car..2003 only 20k km on the clock .both my lumbars have recently stopped working..leaking air means the compressor is shut off...[ wise move bt mercedes] . i couldnt believe both my seats could have leaking air jackets..the drivers seat moves automatically when entering the car for easy access...im sure the hose has kinked over the years....i hope i can solve the issue too now. best rgds hus ! n cyprus !!
God vid M guy,I am interested in how you came to the assumption that the tube was at fault ,I happen to have a r230 with the same seat and the buttons do nothing ,I thought of disconnecting the tube and blowing thru it see if I could detect a leak or maybe it is electrical problem I have ,what’s your thoughts? Cheers
Saw some threads on some forums that suggested the pipe would crack on the drivers side due to frequent back and forward movement of the seat. Turned out to be correct! Once the ECU detects a leak, it shuts down the air pump. You don't need to remove the seat I later discovered, you can tip it back far enough to access the wiring/piping loom underneath. Good luck!
Does the passenger seat not work aswell if the driver sear line has failed? Im going to attempt the fix on my seats unsure if both seats have to be done
Yes - the air supply is cut off to both seats when the control unit detects a leak. Unlikely the passenger side has a leak as well - doesn’t get moved anywhere near as much. Fix the drivers side and the passenger side should come back to life as well. Good luck!
Ideally you should deflate all the parts of the seat, set to 0, or disable with stars so that the pse pump doesn't try to ever inflate the seat. That will protect the pse pump. And it's not hydraulic there isn't any oil involved.
Hi my pulse button goes red for about 10 secs then cuts off. When pressing all the lumbar buttons I just hear a clicking like noise but nothing happens. Do you think this could be the same issue? Please help me thanks
@@pradaboyk i cant remember if im being honest the garage sorted it but was ages ago.. think it was something to do with the wire or module.. it was alot of work to figure out if i remember correctly
TipL DONT remove the seat to avoid disconnecting the plug and throwing the SRS light on the dash, just tilt the seat back and there is plenty of room to fix the pipe without removing the seat.
Great tip - thank you!
good thinking
🤗
So you can do all that by just tilting the seat back and not unplugging anything?
Don't mean to ask stupid questions (my talent), you mean still remove seat bolts, not tilt with seat adjustment?
@@golfernst yes my friend remove 4 bolts, then tilt up from front
Thank you. Same break, same location, same repair. 2013 SL55. Tilted seat vs. removing it. Used block of wood to prop it up while doing repair. Leak was clearly on the side of passenger seat. Easy to hear but, your video sped up troubleshooting of exact location. I went straight for the bend in bundle and pressed on it to hear leak change.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank You for making this video ! I have been dealing with this issue for months and have been afraid to take on the job until now. Your correct when you say reading the instructions is not enough. Having a visual walk through makes it much better. Now just need some muscles to lift the seat out of the car !
Haha! Good luck (it’s not that heavy)...
I found this video very useful fixing the lumbar support on my SL55. My air tube had failed in exactly the same place.
One tip though, if you disconnect both batteries before disconnecting the seat connectors, you will not get the SRS fault, and you will not need to take the car to MB to have it re-set.
Great tip - thanks!
Excellent I very happy seeing this video
@@mguytv Was the car in the "key on/ engine off " position when you unplug the SRS connector?
I've had my 2003 SL500 since 2005 and NEVER used this feature. I don't even knnow if it works. I'll try it out tomorrow. Everything that I know of works perfectly.
Taking the bateries off before doing this kind of work is a must. It will also prevent the srs fault, I think.
I just came across this video while working on some other items for my SL. Great and thorough walkthrough - so much that I thought I would give it a try after not having my seats working for about nine years now. I found the hose break under the same spot of my driver's seat! Performed the repair and was very hopeful. Checked passenger side as well and that one was fine.
I tried the massage again and unfortunately, it did the same thing as before. When I hit the Pulse button the light there goes on for about 8-10 seconds and then goes off. No movement and pulse light will not turn on until the car is turned off and on again. Not sure where to go from here.
Also regarding the SRS error - you don't need to remove any of the batteries if you don't have the keyless option. Just don't put your key into the ignition during the repair process and you'll be fine.
Thanks for the comment - from the symptoms it sounds like there must be another leak in your system somewhere I'm sorry to say...
i am a mb tech. you could have saved a lot of time. let me know next time and i can give you my knowledge. i never remove the seat for this job. thanks for the vid. i do like how you work. very detail oriented.
I just unbolted the seat and moved it forward checked the pipe back and front of the drivers seat the pipe is ok,,, ? Have you any idea why both are not working I checked the fuse that's ok,, I also disconnected both batteries,, I brought the car with the massage seats not working all the other bits work on the seats ,,is it a star reset on them otherwise ?
@@mercedesE55AMGMan does the pse pump work?
@@narcissistinjurygiver2932 yes mate that's working as soft close on boot works plus all doors lock and unlock
@@mercedesE55AMGMan pull the fuse for 30 sec and see if that circuit resets. if it does not and their is no leak then you have a pump issue
@@narcissistinjurygiver2932 ... else plug in your scanner to read live data from the seat module: no more guessing
👍
I would have tried adhesive heat shrink to seal the tube along with the glue.
Thank you so much for posting this walk through. With the info this video gives I was able to sort the seat in my SL500. The hardest bit is removing the seat, especially with the roof up as it was raining in Scotland (for a change!). I left the keys out of the ignition and did not get the SRS fault light. For info, my pipe was broken in exactly the same place as yours, and I also cut the other pipe at the front rather than risking breaking the push connection. Thanks again, very good, clear, work.
No problem - thanks for watching - actually an MB tech said you don't have to actually remove the seat, but it can be tilted backwards far enough to get access... I have pinned this comment for future reference.
How about disconnecting the battery to avoid triggering the SRS light?
Thanks to all of you for the information specially Maseratiguy. I believe that repair at a shop is several hundred 🤑🤑🤑I also had the SRS issue on my Honda when I disconnected the yellow plug, the shop had to reset the computer.
Nice! I'd love to dye my seats, this makes it seem not too bad getting them in and out. Thank you!
Hi Mguy. Thanks heaps for this video. Without it I would not have had the confidence to try and fix my seat. I have a 2007 CL500 purchased recently. The seats on your SL look very similar to mine. None of the Multicontour bits worked when I bought the car and there was a very noticeable air leak on the passenger seat / centre console side at the junction of the the seat and seat back. This car, from seat wear, often had a passenger and maybe often moved the seat forward causing the leak at this junction. I tried unbolting the sear and leaning it forward or back but could not get proper access to the area under consideration partly because I could not see how to get the protective plastic cover off the area. So seat out. On this CL there are 2 small electrical connections which just pull out and stay with the seat. (While writing this I wonder if they needed taking out as they were from the seat to the electrical connector). Two other rectangular connectors (a white and yellow) had to be removed. A bit difficult but notches either side that need pushing in and then the connector slides out. Most worrisome was removing the air hose from the air hose T junction. It is one of those plastic connectors that snap on. Gently prising 2 of the 'teeth' away with small flat screwdrivers and pulling on the other end did the trick (2 people). Last but just as difficult was freeing the whole cable (elec and air) from the metal it was attached to as support (not a bracket as on the CL). There was an obvious lever/latch thingy that no amount of pushing in would budge. Pulling it back / out though allows sliding the cable off the end of the metal rod very easily!!
Seat out of the car carefully with 2 people. One big strong person maybe but you would easily scratch the interior and on a hard roof CL there is not the room compared to an SL.
Next most difficult part was removing the plastic cover of the seat junction. There's 3 or 4 latches but the hardest is what looks like the head of a plastic pop rivet. It is actually the head of a threaded piece of plastic - not a screw as the threads don't join but are each a circle in themselves. When the car is put together this would be pushed hard through the plastic and hole behind and hold it very firmly. It can be removed slowly with 1 or 2 flat screwdrivers and gradually hinge it upwards.
Now at long last to the cable containing elec wires (many) and the air hose (which is my case I need a 6mm Pope plastic tubing the same as Guy but larger.)
Cut the covering very carefully. In my case it was sticky (maybe due to age) black cloth tape. I went straight to the area I could hear air coming from when the seat was in the car. A crack almost right through the pipe!! I thought I had better cut back more tape and give room to cut some pipe and put a new spliced pipe in. Just as well as there were 3 cracks in all along 2-3 inches of pipe!!
Now I have glue, 6mm tubing, small zip locks and cloth tape. (I will put the tape on 'backwards' so the glue does not stick to the wiring and then on the correct way over the top).
That job is in the coming days when I get time but I am quite confident certainly of fixing this issue and that the seats will work as they should. Maybe I'm being too positive but time will tell.
Great story! So glad it was helpful!
Useful video and good comments below.
Great vid, very useful. I have the same problem plus the bottom part of the seat doesn't heat up. So I guess I will have to replace the heating element inside the seat as well.
Yes I think the heating element might be trickier... good luck!
Great video! Very concise! Thanks
Thank you. I will to try make mine seat. I think it will be same with w211.
Great video !! Can you please tell me what type of glue you used and where I can get it ? Thank you very much and all the best 👍
Was there not enough room to move the hole seat forward towards the glove box after unbolting the seat from the floor ? To get to the brake in the line ?
A previous comment suggested that you could undo all the bolts and just tip the seat backwards to fix the break.
Very good 👍 video on that repair.. hopefully I won't need to do that but if I do I'm using this as my instructions.
thank God the seat control computer detects pump demand is greater than limits.
$150 Autel Maxidiag scanner can reset all module, I bet that includes seat SRS
Thanks , I’ll get around to doing this at some point.
Good clip how did you know the leak position, I have same car with same problem I was told by dealership I needed a full set of air cussions for the seat. Love some feed back
It’s usually where the cable bundle bends the most, but there’s luck involved! If you have to strip off all the outer covering it’s no big problem, just use cable ties to secure it together again. Good luck!
Thanks Simon much appreciated@@mguytv
Does the problem happen on the drivers seat as well or is the mayor kink in the hose always on the pass. Seat.
?
Mainly on the drivers side (mine was RHD) because it’s the driver who generally has to adjust the seat position more frequently.
Great video! I need remove my bottom driver side seat cover for my Mercedes SL63 AMG R230 & replace with new bottom seat cover. How to remove the seat cover do you know? Appreciate your help!
Cheers mate! Good watch
Thanks for sharing, may i never need to fix it but now I know what to do or have done
I have a 2005 SL500 and I’ve replaced the radio with the Pioneer 8200 NEX. After install, which came out great, I noticed the AC was not getting cold anymore. I researched this and found out that the AC has to be reset. I’ve read that to reset the AC you turn the key to number 3 position, press the defrost and recirculating air buttons simultaneously unit the LED lights start to flash, turn the key off for 60 seconds, then start the car. Doesn’t work for me. Wondering if you would know how to reset this?
Not sure... I suggest take it to your local MB specialist and get them to hook up the diagnostics which can reset all that
@@mguytv actually, I bought the icarsoft diagnostic tool and reset it myself. Worked like a charm. Thanks for replying!
@@kevblu1 even better!
@@kevblu1 - I would like buying a diagnostic scanner for most diagnostic tasks on my 2003 SL500. Which icarsoft version would you recommend ?
Good result for the effort involved.
Very helpful thanks for the great vid! Im dealing with this now my break in the hose was not as easy to find. I was wondering if you could tell me what the vac hose is just under the controls of the seat that is a connector but not connected to anything almost makes me think a line was deleted but left open? Thanks in advance
Yeah, not sure if it does connect to anything...
Hi are the connectors and the seat removal procedure same for the R230 SL55?
I would imagine so, or very similar
excellent video
Hi mr Maserati guy . I have a car like yours 04 with 23k m on it and I'm trying to find out how to fix the massage thing , it doesn't work and there is a hissing sound from the seat back . What is your take on that ?? I like the wheels you have on your car very much . Also the right front starts to sag in about 2 days and when I start the car the , to low , sign appears but it disappears in a minute and the car is perfectly leveled , the seller is suppose to fix that , but do you know anything about that ?
Thank you and I have watched some of your videos and like your CL class , it's very nice, although I don't know what cars you have today.
If you still have that 04. That happened to mine after it had been sitting in the garage for several weeks. Mine had the body low light on until I pressed and cycled body raze once and it's been fine ever since. Yours has very low mileage a d that is good. I followed some advice from a European man and had the ABC fluid and filter changed, and I will do that every few years as that system can cost many thousands 💰💰💰💰 to repair 😟. I already replaced 2 front struts around 2600 US dollars 💸
Hi, my seat lumbers don’t work and I’ve watched your video and I hear the sound of air leaking from both my seats and I took them both out and checked my lines where you checked yours and I have no cracks or splits, now I’m at a lost. 🤷🏽♂️
Listen carefully where the air is escaping - you should be able to locate it quite precisely.
@@mguytv I hear it from the passenger seat only but, will that affect both seats?
@@mguytv I actually took the seat out and found that the air lines are not broken or cracked! So I unplugged them and plugged the it while it was running and I can hear the pneumatic pump shut off as it should so, I think the bladders in both seats are corroded.
a geat video !! very very helpful....now is this a similar procedure on the w209? my clk55 cabrio is a cheirshed car..2003 only 20k km on the clock .both my lumbars have recently stopped working..leaking air means the compressor is shut off...[ wise move bt mercedes] . i couldnt believe both my seats could have leaking air jackets..the drivers seat moves automatically when entering the car for easy access...im sure the hose has kinked over the years....i hope i can solve the issue too now. best rgds hus ! n cyprus !!
I assume it would be similar - good luck!
Great video
Fantastic thanks 👍
God vid M guy,I am interested in how you came to the assumption that the tube was at fault ,I happen to have a r230 with the same seat and the buttons do nothing ,I thought of disconnecting the tube and blowing thru it see if I could detect a leak or maybe it is electrical problem I have ,what’s your thoughts? Cheers
Saw some threads on some forums that suggested the pipe would crack on the drivers side due to frequent back and forward movement of the seat. Turned out to be correct! Once the ECU detects a leak, it shuts down the air pump. You don't need to remove the seat I later discovered, you can tip it back far enough to access the wiring/piping loom underneath. Good luck!
Does the passenger seat not work aswell if the driver sear line has failed? Im going to attempt the fix on my seats unsure if both seats have to be done
Yes - the air supply is cut off to both seats when the control unit detects a leak. Unlikely the passenger side has a leak as well - doesn’t get moved anywhere near as much. Fix the drivers side and the passenger side should come back to life as well. Good luck!
Beautiful job brother
Can I know because my sl doesn't have this
But it have the scroll like 1-2-3-4-5
What is that for ??
Is that seat heater perhaps? Not sure...
@@mguytv I don't think so . Else there will be no 3 lines to control the heated seats
It's actually Is all Mercedes 😂 and I never know what it's
Ideally you should deflate all the parts of the seat, set to 0, or disable with stars so that the pse pump doesn't try to ever inflate the seat. That will protect the pse pump. And it's not hydraulic there isn't any oil involved.
is there a way you can pull that button out of the seat??
Arr checked my drivers side pipe its ok,, Still both seats are not working got any ideas PLEASE
Hi my pulse button goes red for about 10 secs then cuts off. When pressing all the lumbar buttons I just hear a clicking like noise but nothing happens. Do you think this could be the same issue? Please help me thanks
Mine does the same thing did u figure it out?
@@AlexHernandez-xh8ei I took it to a garage hopefully should have it back soon will
Let you know what they said
@@gjpope23 ?????? So what was the issue
@@pradaboyk i cant remember if im being honest the garage sorted it but was ages ago.. think it was something to do with the wire or module.. it was alot of work to figure out if i remember correctly
@@gjpope23 ok thanks alot
Thank god it switches off air supply... you wouldn't be wanting to listen to them while driving, they'll put you to sleep!🤣
Haha! Guessed it had to be a band name!
Can anyone give a rough estimate of the weight of the seat?
I would estimate around 30-40kg (66 - 88 lb) - it's HEAVY - really it's a two person job to be safe and not give yourself an injury...
@@mguytv Thanks! That was quick! Check this out. This guy seems to be a Mercedes employee th-cam.com/video/5XDuvbyIfWs/w-d-xo.html
Great video
Great video
Great video,