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Nick - good work. I have found that a vise insert is a great tool to help work sheet metal. Make it by taking 2 bars of tool steel (mine are 1.25 x .25 x 10"). Glue together and drill a hole at one end through both. Put a bolt and a wingnut on that end so you can tighten down. The other end always goes into the vise but you leave the part with the sheet clamped in it sticking out of the vise. You can radius it or change the shape as necessary to get tighter bends. You can bend and flip and bend again, etc. It gives a nice thing to hammer against, too. Part of mine is shaped like the average dao, so I can fold a blade collar over it and hammer it while the collar is securely clamped. Finally, when you heat to solder, suspend and heat from the bottom. You will be able to heat less, because the solder will flow toward the heat. Less chance of the habaki changing shape on you. Just ideas. You are talented. Check out DF In The Shop's videos on vise inserts. I took his idea and borrowed but did it an easier way because I didn't want to do the smithing when I am in the middle of sword orders. Take care....kc
FYI: Nothing wrong with what you did, but I find it easier to lay the file flat on the table and hold it with one hand and drag the habaki over it with the other hand. Every so often you need to shake the fillings off.
oh, a trick... make the habaki just a tad too small. Then, forge it against the sides of the tang and it will stretch. That way, it will be tight enough each time. You did very well, and yours appears tight enough. But, if you aim for just right at soldering, then sometimes you will miss and have to add more material on the bottom by soldering more in. If you aim for a little too small at soldering, it will either be just right, or simply require a little forging to shape it. That is what I was taught, anyway. I wish I could remember who taught me this...
Hey, thanks so much for the video! I tried making a habaki recently using some 3/16" brass I found on Amazon. For some reason, my brass kept cracking whenever I tried folding it like you did. Even after annealing, the metal always seemed to crack. Do you know what I might be doing wrong? Perhaps my brass is just bad quality.
Hey so, what metal sheet did you use there? Do you have a link? I'm an absolute beginner, and that sheet-metal bar seems like a good size to go with for making a Habaki. Also, is that copper you're working with?
Did you find out? Thickness and maybe type if there is a difference than what you get at hardware store? Home depot has 12 x 24 x .019 not sure, but I also want to make a tsuba so
I’m a little late to the party here, But he’s using copper plate at about an 1/8” thickness. Easiest thing to do is to go to eBay and find yourself a bar of 1” by 12”, in 1/8”. They’re about $13 or so. Use HARD SILVER SOLDER. Don’t even mess with the plumber solder at hardware stores. The moment you hammer on it it’ll break. Also eBay. Also for tsuba, you’d want 1/8” as well. You could go thicker but 1/8” is also ideal for this. Get a 3” by 3” sheet. They’re about the same price as the copper bar.
+nickwoo2 thank you, i have alot of question's have you got a facenook, because japenese fitting/blades are all new to me, and i could do with all the help possible, I'll give you a shoutout on my channel if you would help me? :)
Nick - good work. I have found that a vise insert is a great tool to help work sheet metal. Make it by taking 2 bars of tool steel (mine are 1.25 x .25 x 10"). Glue together and drill a hole at one end through both. Put a bolt and a wingnut on that end so you can tighten down. The other end always goes into the vise but you leave the part with the sheet clamped in it sticking out of the vise. You can radius it or change the shape as necessary to get tighter bends. You can bend and flip and bend again, etc. It gives a nice thing to hammer against, too. Part of mine is shaped like the average dao, so I can fold a blade collar over it and hammer it while the collar is securely clamped. Finally, when you heat to solder, suspend and heat from the bottom. You will be able to heat less, because the solder will flow toward the heat. Less chance of the habaki changing shape on you. Just ideas. You are talented. Check out DF In The Shop's videos on vise inserts. I took his idea and borrowed but did it an easier way because I didn't want to do the smithing when I am in the middle of sword orders. Take care....kc
FYI: Nothing wrong with what you did, but I find it easier to lay the file flat on the table and hold it with one hand and drag the habaki over it with the other hand. Every so often you need to shake the fillings off.
fits perfectly. Very well made!
oh, a trick... make the habaki just a tad too small. Then, forge it against the sides of the tang and it will stretch. That way, it will be tight enough each time. You did very well, and yours appears tight enough. But, if you aim for just right at soldering, then sometimes you will miss and have to add more material on the bottom by soldering more in. If you aim for a little too small at soldering, it will either be just right, or simply require a little forging to shape it. That is what I was taught, anyway. I wish I could remember who taught me this...
kevin colwell 2 years late, but Is there a way to make a Habaki or a fuchi without soldering?
I wonder how the smiths in medival Japan made them.
The project is looking good Nick.
Keep up the good work man
good job mate!
Hey, thanks so much for the video! I tried making a habaki recently using some 3/16" brass I found on Amazon. For some reason, my brass kept cracking whenever I tried folding it like you did. Even after annealing, the metal always seemed to crack. Do you know what I might be doing wrong? Perhaps my brass is just bad quality.
Hey so, what metal sheet did you use there? Do you have a link? I'm an absolute beginner, and that sheet-metal bar seems like a good size to go with for making a Habaki. Also, is that copper you're working with?
Did you find out? Thickness and maybe type if there is a difference than what you get at hardware store? Home depot has 12 x 24 x .019 not sure, but I also want to make a tsuba so
I’m a little late to the party here,
But he’s using copper plate at about an 1/8” thickness. Easiest thing to do is to go to eBay and find yourself a bar of 1” by 12”, in 1/8”. They’re about $13 or so.
Use HARD SILVER SOLDER. Don’t even mess with the plumber solder at hardware stores. The moment you hammer on it it’ll break. Also eBay.
Also for tsuba, you’d want 1/8” as well. You could go thicker but 1/8” is also ideal for this. Get a 3” by 3” sheet. They’re about the same price as the copper bar.
@@That0neDeadGuy Thanks, it is a little late for me at this point, but thanks for answering, sure it will help others.
slt , tu devrais investir dans du matériels de bijoutier
é uma lima ou uma cerra? usando a ferramenta de forma errada.
How far away from each other are them pieces in the jig and what thinkness steel do you use in the slots to fold it more, thank you. :)
+josh roberts they are about 3/4 of an inch away from each other. the shims are 1/4 and 1/8
+nickwoo2 thank you so much, another question is on the ha, how far down do the little bevels go is it about a 1/16" thank you.
josh.
about that yeah
+nickwoo2 thank you, i have alot of question's have you got a facenook, because japenese fitting/blades are all new to me, and i could do with all the help possible, I'll give you a shoutout on my channel if you would help me? :)
+josh roberts I do have a Facebook link in description. I also recommended picking up Walter sorrels dvd on fittings. it is how I learned.
what kind of solder do you use mate the two end of the habaki together? Just normal electrical solder?
Hard silver solder
+nickwoo2 youre awesome! thanks! cant wait to see the katana
Bruh! This awesome"!!
銅板の厚みは2㎜？
mas tá bom o video gostei!
what thickness of metal?
1 / 16
@@nickwoo2and what would be the thickness of the blade of the katana?
valeu me ajudou muito
Mantap