Only thing i know it's that every Markus video have perfect white balance and perfect exposure. No joke, I'm impressed how Markus can deliver so good videos with, sometimes, shitty cameras. All is in nailing exposure, white balance and having good light.
I think it's because he uses a mannequin head in a pole. It's right in our face but he doesn't say it because that's the secret sauce. A gray card doesn't show you where the lighting will fall on your face.
@@nayaleezy just for clarity, your saying that the mannequin head, and where the light falls on each depth of the surface is the secret sauce? So how would he reproduce that with a moving model who isn’t in the same spot as the mannequin? not having the exact geometric shape as the mannequin. I ain’t trolling, I’m really interested in the logics and resolution.
So! 1) Take several pictures of the same subject in the same situation with different exposure settings and make a note of what setting you used for each photo. 2) import the photos into your computer and choose the one that looks best. 3) Still continuing to use the same setup, set the exposure the same as it was for the photo that looked best on your computer screen. 4) Go into your zebra settings and adjust the ZEBRA settings so that only the white on the colour card is Zebra'd. This is the ZEBRA setting you will use from now on because that's what will give you the indication of "perfect" exposure for that specific camera. 5) Now when you shoot anywhere else, simply place the colour/grey card on the focal point of the new image your composing with the Zebras on. 6) Adjust your EXPOSURE until the zebra pattern only appears on the white section of the card and your exposure should be set perfectly. All this is done to take the screen on your camera out of the equation assuming your computer monitor is good enough. I'm a novice, did I get that right?
After step 2), you cannot continue to use the same setup because the sun has moved and the lighting has changed. I believe one should do this indoor using video light. This way the lighting remains the same after you examine the video in your computer. To demonstrate this outdoor is what's causing the confusion.
Please forgive me for being slow, I’m about to go try this. Sooooo, I’m setting my camera to expose an image that looks good on MY computer monitor? I ask the question because I’m setup with 2 monitors (a MacBook Pro and a Dell monitor) and they look very different from each other. Which one is correct and which one will look correct on other people’s monitors and phone? Again, if you see this comment please go easy.
This is close but remember 35% 50% or 75% and honestly look at using a mannequin head like he does because gray cards don't show how the lights will fall on your face before every shoot.
you could have left people to rot in the comments but chose to revisit and simplify it even further. thats what makes your channel different. thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
it is so funny, every time you break something down, make it simple for everyone... there are always the "I-know-it-better" and you know what, they for sure did not work in Hollywood and they did not produce big productions... yet here we are and they still know all better :) never give up Markus, we love you for what you do
This really made me smile as your animated presentation made it so much fun. I do so enjoy your videos even with 50+ years of still and motion photography behind me. Your perspectives are always interesting even if I don't always agree with them or the style of your finished presentation. I think the gap in "getting it" is that the viewers don't know that you mean to immediately compare the "proper" exposure with the chip chart. For a lot, using outdoor light means running into the house to upload and then running back out before the light changes to set the zebras on the chip and that is not exactly an easy chore.
Your guidance is always solid! You have no clue how much time you saved me by following your video a long while back about stop shooting every video in raw! Do I still need it occasionally yes but for the majority of the time my clients love the quick turn around and I have never heard I hate your grading or lut lol. (I learned to get it right on location most of the time lol). Thank you!
Markus, you’re the man! You give us useful information and never try to sell us crap. Hell, you even do giveaways. Ignore the gatekeeping AV dorks. There are tons of us who appreciate what you do!
Here in England we have grass everywhere and this spikes my histogram at around 4 (on a scale of 1-10 left - right) so I don't even need a grey card for exposure. Same process as you explained here.
the problem is camera manufacturers make different and very non-linear OETF, usualy claiming in manual as "standard" that differ from real standard like bt.709. Many beginners discover it in hard way, trying to follow some video guru (with other camera ofc) and get very bad result (usualy problems in areas close to dark and very bright modified by manufacturers to pretend their product have "better image" than competitors).
Ah down the rabbit hole, you mentioned the taboo mantra, computer screen and perfect exposure. Now you gonna have to cover about monitor or screen, brightness and color calibration as someone will have question about why my result is different in my phone or my print photo
That's why you have a color profile for every major screen manufacturer and send the appropriate versions based on what screen your audience or clients are using. It's the same in web design they make versions for different screens
I can't fathom a practical solution to that. Worst case the camera LCD may also be tinted or off middle grey for some details. I've carried a USB-C to HDMI cable around to test various displays and TVs and it almost made me switch to black and white for all video and stills. Even with messed up colors out of the equation exposure still deviates against display contrast and brightness. For now I'm setting my Surface Book 3000 x 2000 PixelSense display at around 30% brightness when editing, this seems to match most regular displays I've tested so far.
I agree with allanimalstaxi, thanks for taking the time to give the extra explanation. Some of us are brand new to photography and really want to understand the basics. You do it well, thank you!
Don't be fooled Markus. There are people who simply have to use a disposable camera and then they only have to deal with a zebra crossing. My wife still doesn't understand it and wants 50 shades of gray. 😅 If I hold that up to the light, we can skip white balance. No kidding, your humor is great and your explanations have enormous drive. This makes photo/video even more fun. The tip of the crumpled A4 paper is really useful/handy. I also tested your special settings in the Canon XA70 (G70 in the USA). Ingenious and quick to process in Davinci. Greetings, also to your beautiful wife 💐, from the Netherlands. 👋🏻
I volunteer at a senior center, we film elders telling their memoirs, I will put these lessons to use, I'm so lucky. I'm watching your vidoes nonstop, its awesome here at your channel😎🤘
Thank you 10x times over for another learning adventure! Sponge Mark here. My learning so far is. White balance setting: Use the camera’s digital focus not analog - subject holding a white paper, zoom in on the paper filling the screen for the setting. For color white balance - to nail the grey: Use a crumbled piece of white paper to get the off shades of grey and white and set the white balance. Which instruction do I do? and do I do the crumbled white paper still using only the digital focus? Setting the camera’s proper exposure - histogram - brightness level: Take a bunch of photos, from to light to - to dark changing the exposure. View the photos on your computer not the view finder of the camera! Find the best looking photo and see how close it is to 50% on the camera’s histogram. Use a flat grey scale card not a glossy card and turn on the camera’s zebra pattern and adjust to desired setting until only the white bar on the grey scale card is blinking. Do not change the exposure setting. Then when your in the field to achieve the proper exposure have the subject hold up the grey scale card, zebras is activated, you then can set the camera’s exposure, your F stop, ISO, or shutter speed until only the white bar on the card is blinking - presto done. In sunlight harmonize darker backgrounds with a diffuser for a perfect light balance. Move the subject in to a darker background and balance out the lighting of the photo so it looks even from the subject to the background. If I’m asked where did you learn how to film. MarkusPix University of Filming. Much love!!
LOL.... Thanks for the clarification, I didn't require it, but this does remove the fuzz in my brain. After the other video, I ordered that color checker card.... I wanted one anyway, and now I know WHY I need it. My camera always seems to render darker than the real scene. Thanks to you I know why and how to fix it! Keep up the work... you're a teacher at heart!
You are amazing, just amazing. Thank you for your energy and your dedication to your mission!! I think it likely that anyone who doesn't understand this one-step approach hasn't grasped the exposure triangle yet and might be having bigger problems than this. Simply. Not a put down. This process can only be a mystery if you have no reason to use it.
Thanks, Markus! Complete Zone System calibration in under 5 minutes. Long story: In the film days we would test every new batch of film and calibrate against handheld and in-camera light meters to match gamma at different ISO values (ASA/DIN) under standard and push processing. This process took days and allowed us to match previous batches as well as across multiple cameras in need rooms, photo pools, etc. It was laborious and necessary for high-quality photos on a consistent and simplified basis.
I was going to play the last video over and over untill I got it. This one makes it more simple. I only have older cameras a200 a500 a3000 and I am going to learn this on one for sure. I also have a couple video cameras so I am going to figure it out with them also. Thanks for everything you do. I have learned much from your videos and I do shoot in manual all the time now, playing with the settings after shooting in auto my whole life. Hope everything is good for you. See you on the next one.
Different video but I just picked up a pristine Sony NEX 3G based on your glowing reviews on it, came with a power zoom, such a cool camera, Love the channel, love your excitement for gadgets
In the good old days you would take a light meter and measure the incident light on the subject (or 18% reflectance grey card), the meter would then recommend a f-number which may not necessarily be right for your camera. So you need to take a few shots to determine what the gap is and apply it in the future. With the digital cameras you can make use of the histogram position and zebra setting to do this. Why 18%? Because the experts looked at a large number of photos and decided this average was the best. The exposure meter in your camera should presumably be targeting around this number. Love your work, Markus, please keep going!
The most funny "how-to" vídeo I've seen in many years. I'll be laughing for a long time, even centuries. I look at it from my experience as tech support for a software company. The customers were techies too but some didn't get it sometimes. I dreamed on doing a written or recorded "how-to" the way you've done this one but unfortunately these were out of the "corporate rules". We were not allowed to use even RTFM. It was frustrating. ;-)
It’s really very simple Marcus, and thank you for that tip! To be honest, in the first video, I’ve wached it to the end before I realised what you meant. Also, I was about to buy the glossy one, because it comes complementary on a local store here in Australia, with the Datacolor Elite Pro monitor color correction, but it seems like I’m going to get (or make) also a matte one. It makes sense now why.
Sending love! Sorry this one apparently caused some consternation. There is one thing I'm assuming, which others might not be, and that is required (I think?) in order for this process to work correctly... The test photo set, the subsequent dialling in of the optimum exposure, and the establishment of a reference point using histogram/zebras on a grey card/greyscale -HAS TO HAPPEN UNDER CONSISTENT LIGHTING- ...Is that so? So you either want to do this under studio conditions or on a very stable overcast day outside (and quickly!). If the lighting conditions change between test shots and making the reference point, then the "correct" exposure as deduced in the test shots will no longer be correct and you'll up up with a "reference" that systematically under or over exposes.
Exactly! Light changes fast outdoor so the perfect shot photo sample will not always be the right exposure, if your indoor you control the light to be consistent. A 18 % gray card has a shade that is 18 % if it is darker gray well it could be 60% that’s why camera stores recommend you/us 18% and you use that card NOT for right exposure but for right white balance, to achieve best colors in your shoot. I use a handhold light meter where the brightest area is exposed and take a reading so I don’t clip the highlights and this takes me 2 sec to figure out the right exposure. Marcus way works great too because he has figured out what works for him. There is no right or wrong way, just find a quick accurate way that works for you and you good to go. Iam not a professional photographer but I know how to achieve right exposure with the stuff I got. Photography is fun 😊👍
I used a sekonic lightmeter and then shot the grey card. I checked where it was in the histogram so when i used only the grey card in the field, then i set it where it was on my base reading. My Canon RP is more like the G70 or rx10iv. Not all cameras have zebras though
hey i only watched the first 5 seconds but that grey thing is 18% lol. You certainly made the content more concise with this speedrun. Keep fighting the good fight, these kind of videos help a lot of people and most wont ever leave a comment. Yes I am getting it, it makes sense, the setup takes a while, but once its setup its very intuitive and much better than what I have done.
I were stunned with the comments in previous video... People asked questions that literally were answered by demonstration and explanation perfectly. "Really? Didn't you watch anything?"
What many students are being taught is also competing with everything they've learned (and become accustomed) prior. A student can can hear what you're teaching while simultaneously modifying it mentally. Even simple concepts can therefore be confusing for some.
@@vision-gc4hy You are not supposed to challenge what you are learning on that moment, but be quiet and take it in as told. Then later on think about what did you see/hear/read and only then when you know what that was, to challenge it with different perspectives and different takes etc. So in this case, watch the video and listen. Wait few hours and then come up with opinions about the content, not the person etc.
@@paristo They're not challenging what they're being taught. It occurs unconsciously. It's a barrier to learning for many many people. It's why boot camps break you down completely, before they begin to teach you anything. To drive out your assumptions and habits. Students are often trying to learn but don't know how to learn.
Thank you so much! I am one of those who got it the first time. It is easy indeed and I got great results with Sony CX240 using the card your recommended. And I am not talking about results with more expensive camcorder, which has a zebra. By the way, I am a hobby videographer and not a pro. Thanks again, your videos changed a lot for me.
I have to admit I've only used grey cards for color balance. For exposure, after what I feel looks right in-cam, I just confirm on my waveform that everything is in line and nothing is clipping in the scene.
I think I get it. Still think it would have helped to show this setting on the back of any one of your cameras that you can adjust this on. I assume this kind of setting is only available on more prosumer type cameras?
Completely off topic, but I'm really interested in your paintings. I'm an artist as well and saw your work on other videos, id love to see a video about them, they look incredible. Love your content 👏🏻
Don't worry, Markus. Most of us got it yesterday. Your explanation yesterday was, as usual, very clear and focused on solving problems. You and your channel are a joy.
A bit puzzled why we need to check our exposure on computer display. If you know to read histogram, you’ll know when you nail exposure. Not sure why comp display is necessary. As someone said, different comps displays have different image “presentation”. 🥴
Because each camera displays histograms differently as I demonstrated in the video. The same grey card 3 different cameras shows up in 3 different locations on their histograms
That’s true. But somehow I know when my pic is correctly exposed without histogram (experience😊), so to save me transfering to comp etc. might try like that! But definitely great advice especially for filming. I have Blackmagic Ursas and Pockets (and drones) so it’ll be super useful to do that (to ballance them all)! Thanks Markus! 👍🏻👍🏻
can someone explain how do you set your camera settings to the perfect exposure based on images corrected in your computer? im confused why this extra step of taking multple shots and findng exposure on computer is necessary before using card
when you say find the perfect exposure on the computer, do you mean making adjustments to the image on computer or choosing the photo with an exposure that looks best on computer ?
Completely off topic because I already understood you the first time... You always have AWESOME shirts in your videos! Where do you shop for those shirts?
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What if you're using the Sony CX405 which doesn't have zebras, or histograms?
0:40 If people were whining about that in the comments (I didn't look), it must be the 'measurebators' that don't actually make art and don't share their photos for the world to see (most of them never do, which means you don't know if you should take them seriously), but instead sit around and read camera forums all day debating brands, how to check if your lens is decentered, etc. This is simple to understand the way you're explaining it. Don't worry about the measurebators. You'll never please them.
Thanks. This really helped. 😊 Can you test the Raleno 80W PLV-C80? A bit bigger than your favorites, but does allow 2 Sony PLV-C80 Batteries to be attached at the back (so no balance issues, 60% power) and is quite inexpensive. But how good is it?
I have one. Not sure what PLV-C80 batteries are but it takes normal NP batteries but its too big for my taste for travel since I like to take an average of 4 lights, plus the reflector is full size. It works good as a studio light though.
@@MarkusPix Thanks a lot for your response. Yes it is larger, but since I am just starting, affordability is quite important and it costs less than half of the others. Nice to know it is a good light, though. And thanks so much for all your advice. I really appreciate what you do! By the way, the PLV-C80-batteries was a typo. I meant the normal Sony NP Batteries.
The zebra method seems fast and simple. I mostly spot meter a grey card twice at 45 degrees to the light source. The first time I lock exposure, the second time I lock colour balance. I've been doing it for so many years that it's very fast. That is the lesson, I think, pick a method and let it become second nature.
That doesn't make sense. Cameras should show zebras before any kind of recording is done. Maybe you're underexposed in photo mode so no zebras are showing up?
@@MarkusPix Canon has a habit of only including zebras for video, and my R6 Mark II follows that. It's a shame that a $2300 camera doesn't include a feature found in cheaper competitors. All I get is highlight alert in image review.
Thank you for the P S A . I am one of the few that understood you the first time lol but I still watched your video because I really appreciate your content
but how do I put the zebra pictures into my computer? LOVE the passion, brother. You are definitely inspiring me to shoot more, and correct less 'in post'.
After much searching, I managed to find a zebra in the zoo. It took me many hours to try to get her back into the camera, unfortunately she was so stubborn that I couldn't do anything. Now, I'm looking at another zoo to see if I can find a more docile zebra. I certainly love your work.🥰
If you have a camcorder or camera that does not have the zebra pattern do the white balance by aiming at a surface (which can be a cardboard or passport colour checker that has the grayscale or that foldable square table) of medium gray colour to 18%. On the other hand, if you have a camera with the zebra pattern you can use the passport colour checker on which there is the white colour stripe; alternatively you can use a white sheet or, if you really have nothing, a white wall even if it will not be perfect but better than nothing.
Some camera models don't use true ISO. For example Nikon and Canon I know use true ISO this is what I remember back in the DSLR days. Fuji and Olympus and Panasonic tend to under expose a quarter of a stop or so to protect the highlights. This is why different cameras are all over the place.
Sort of related, maybe you can answer Markus, why do so many low-budget films from the 80s look better than a lot of low-budget stuff today with better technology we have now?
Not tried this, but you could probably: 1. Shoot the colour chart at different manual exposures. 2. On computer with colour picker choose the image that gives you the best white and best black. 3. Retake the shot using that exposure settings on manual, but before pressing the shutter adjust the zebras, as Markus explained, so that zebras only appear on white. Manually adjust the exposure 1/3 over and 1/3 under to check zebras work properly. Then press shutter. 4. Appraise result on screen.
I don't even know what my zebra setting is at :D But they're one of the things I like best about modern mirrorless, I generally turn up the exposure until I get a bit just overexposing, that way I know I haven't gone too far. One tutorial calls this "expose for the highlights" and i think that's a good description. Usually it's a bit of white cloud that goes overexposed first, outside.
My camcorder displays details in the highlights that are actually blown out in the recorded version, so relying on the display may not work for everyone.
Markus, I have a Canon XA50 which offers only two levels of zebra patter: 100% and 70%. Which method you'd recommend in this case for nailing proper exposure?
Play with it until you know you have a perfect exposure, then hold up a grey scale chart like I have and see where the zebras are on either the 70 or 100 and write it down- for example- at zebra 100, the first square is blinking and with zebra 70, the first 3 squares are blinking. Pick one of those and from that moment forward, whenever you have the 3 sqaures blinking at zebra 70 for example, you know you have the correct exposure
Markus, don't you ever quit, I beg you. The world needs more people like you 👌🏼
You're awesome, I knew, but to take your time and explain again shows how much you love photography, class act my friend.
Only thing i know it's that every Markus video have perfect white balance and perfect exposure. No joke, I'm impressed how Markus can deliver so good videos with, sometimes, shitty cameras. All is in nailing exposure, white balance and having good light.
Because he used his crinkled A4 paper method every time.
Yep, it's proof that good photos are videos are much more about understanding exposure and composition than expensive gear.
I think it's because he uses a mannequin head in a pole. It's right in our face but he doesn't say it because that's the secret sauce. A gray card doesn't show you where the lighting will fall on your face.
@@nayaleezy just for clarity, your saying that the mannequin head, and where the light falls on each depth of the surface is the secret sauce? So how would he reproduce that with a moving model who isn’t in the same spot as the mannequin? not having the exact geometric shape as the mannequin. I ain’t trolling, I’m really interested in the logics and resolution.
How do they fit zebras into a little camera!? 😜
One Zebra at a time! Honey I Shrunk the Zebras! 😅
I imagine they have something to do with the house hippos m.th-cam.com/video/NBfi8OEz0rA/w-d-xo.html
Mine has penguins 🐧
😱
Cross breeding with an ant.
So! 1) Take several pictures of the same subject in the same situation with different exposure settings and make a note of what setting you used for each photo. 2) import the photos into your computer and choose the one that looks best. 3) Still continuing to use the same setup, set the exposure the same as it was for the photo that looked best on your computer screen. 4) Go into your zebra settings and adjust the ZEBRA settings so that only the white on the colour card is Zebra'd. This is the ZEBRA setting you will use from now on because that's what will give you the indication of "perfect" exposure for that specific camera. 5) Now when you shoot anywhere else, simply place the colour/grey card on the focal point of the new image your composing with the Zebras on. 6) Adjust your EXPOSURE until the zebra pattern only appears on the white section of the card and your exposure should be set perfectly. All this is done to take the screen on your camera out of the equation assuming your computer monitor is good enough. I'm a novice, did I get that right?
After step 2), you cannot continue to use the same setup because the sun has moved and the lighting has changed. I believe one should do this indoor using video light. This way the lighting remains the same after you examine the video in your computer. To demonstrate this outdoor is what's causing the confusion.
Please forgive me for being slow, I’m about to go try this. Sooooo, I’m setting my camera to expose an image that looks good on MY computer monitor? I ask the question because I’m setup with 2 monitors (a MacBook Pro and a Dell monitor) and they look very different from each other. Which one is correct and which one will look correct on other people’s monitors and phone? Again, if you see this comment please go easy.
@@JakeThesnake-k1nyou need to calibrate your screen with a screen calibrator
This is close but remember 35% 50% or 75% and honestly look at using a mannequin head like he does because gray cards don't show how the lights will fall on your face before every shoot.
Perfect
you could have left people to rot in the comments but chose to revisit and simplify it even further. thats what makes your channel different. thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
it is so funny, every time you break something down, make it simple for everyone... there are always the "I-know-it-better" and you know what, they for sure did not work in Hollywood and they did not produce big productions... yet here we are and they still know all better :) never give up Markus, we love you for what you do
So that I understand this correctly, I take my camera and go to the zoo to take photos of zebras, right ?
Yes and they will be perfectly exposed!
I like it when zebras expose themselves!😂
Not the Zebras right.take the left ones. They are better, cause the sun comes from the right
@@shakerman55XD
Yes and then wait until the first one blinks at you.
This really made me smile as your animated presentation made it so much fun. I do so enjoy your videos even with 50+ years of still and motion photography behind me. Your perspectives are always interesting even if I don't always agree with them or the style of your finished presentation.
I think the gap in "getting it" is that the viewers don't know that you mean to immediately compare the "proper" exposure with the chip chart. For a lot, using outdoor light means running into the house to upload and then running back out before the light changes to set the zebras on the chip and that is not exactly an easy chore.
I like your calm, considered and patient way of explaining things! 😁No, seriously, you're making the point.
This was great! Fling! CRASH! Excellent!
Love it! What an easy and simple explanation. Why do so many photographers make this so complicated? Thanks Markus!
Your guidance is always solid! You have no clue how much time you saved me by following your video a long while back about stop shooting every video in raw! Do I still need it occasionally yes but for the majority of the time my clients love the quick turn around and I have never heard I hate your grading or lut lol. (I learned to get it right on location most of the time lol). Thank you!
Markus, you’re the man! You give us useful information and never try to sell us crap. Hell, you even do giveaways. Ignore the gatekeeping AV dorks. There are tons of us who appreciate what you do!
you are by far the best teacher Ive ever seen on TH-cam. loving all the videos and very useful
Thank you! 😃
The best video on that topic ever. So awesome!
Here in England we have grass everywhere and this spikes my histogram at around 4 (on a scale of 1-10 left - right) so I don't even need a grey card for exposure. Same process as you explained here.
thanks for the tip
Yep. I found out about the grass exposure trick a few years ago.
the problem is camera manufacturers make different and very non-linear OETF, usualy claiming in manual as "standard" that differ from real standard like bt.709. Many beginners discover it in hard way, trying to follow some video guru (with other camera ofc) and get very bad result (usualy problems in areas close to dark and very bright modified by manufacturers to pretend their product have "better image" than competitors).
I appreciate the blurry background. Very cinematic. And the advice is totally gamechanging.
This is my fourth video of you and I can't love you more for your down-to-earthness! Good on you mate! ❤
Ah down the rabbit hole, you mentioned the taboo mantra, computer screen and perfect exposure. Now you gonna have to cover about monitor or screen, brightness and color calibration as someone will have question about why my result is different in my phone or my print photo
The snake that eats its own tail. On a couple of weeks we are dissecting the inner workings of the lepton head by shakra.
What is an ICC profile?
That's why you have a color profile for every major screen manufacturer and send the appropriate versions based on what screen your audience or clients are using. It's the same in web design they make versions for different screens
I can't fathom a practical solution to that. Worst case the camera LCD may also be tinted or off middle grey for some details.
I've carried a USB-C to HDMI cable around to test various displays and TVs and it almost made me switch to black and white for all video and stills.
Even with messed up colors out of the equation exposure still deviates against display contrast and brightness. For now I'm setting my Surface Book 3000 x 2000 PixelSense display at around 30% brightness when editing, this seems to match most regular displays I've tested so far.
I agree with allanimalstaxi, thanks for taking the time to give the extra explanation. Some of us are brand new to photography and really want to understand the basics. You do it well, thank you!
Don't be fooled Markus. There are people who simply have to use a disposable camera and then they only have to deal with a zebra crossing. My wife still doesn't understand it and wants 50 shades of gray. 😅 If I hold that up to the light, we can skip white balance. No kidding, your humor is great and your explanations have enormous drive. This makes photo/video even more fun. The tip of the crumpled A4 paper is really useful/handy. I also tested your special settings in the Canon XA70 (G70 in the USA). Ingenious and quick to process in Davinci. Greetings, also to your beautiful wife 💐, from the Netherlands. 👋🏻
I volunteer at a senior center, we film elders telling their memoirs, I will put these lessons to use, I'm so lucky. I'm watching your vidoes nonstop, its awesome here at your channel😎🤘
That sounds interesting and you probably hear really cool accomplishments and stories that you don't expect from these elderly folks.
Thank you 10x times over for another learning adventure! Sponge Mark here. My learning so far is.
White balance setting: Use the camera’s digital focus not analog - subject holding a white paper, zoom in on the paper filling the screen for the setting.
For color white balance - to nail the grey: Use a crumbled piece of white paper to get the off shades of grey and white and set the white balance.
Which instruction do I do? and do I do the crumbled white paper still using only the digital focus?
Setting the camera’s proper exposure - histogram - brightness level: Take a bunch of photos, from to light to - to dark changing the exposure. View the photos on your computer not the view finder of the camera! Find the best looking photo and see how close it is to 50% on the camera’s histogram. Use a flat grey scale card not a glossy card and turn on the camera’s zebra pattern and adjust to desired setting until only the white bar on the grey scale card is blinking. Do not change the exposure setting. Then when your in the field to achieve the proper exposure have the subject hold up the grey scale card, zebras is activated, you then can set the camera’s exposure, your F stop, ISO, or shutter speed until only the white bar on the card is blinking - presto done.
In sunlight harmonize darker backgrounds with a diffuser for a perfect light balance. Move the subject in to a darker background and balance out the lighting of the photo so it looks even from the subject to the background.
If I’m asked where did you learn how to film. MarkusPix University of Filming. Much love!!
A simply brilliant explanation. Thank you and keep you your great TH-cam channel.
Had to check to see if I had my playback speed set to normal or not, good info
Crystal clear the first time haha. Thank you for every video you do. Worth it's weight in gold!
LOL.... Thanks for the clarification, I didn't require it, but this does remove the fuzz in my brain. After the other video, I ordered that color checker card.... I wanted one anyway, and now I know WHY I need it. My camera always seems to render darker than the real scene. Thanks to you I know why and how to fix it! Keep up the work... you're a teacher at heart!
Man, I just love this guy. The energy is so contagious
You are amazing, just amazing. Thank you for your energy and your dedication to your mission!!
I think it likely that anyone who doesn't understand this one-step approach hasn't grasped the exposure triangle yet and might be having bigger problems than this. Simply. Not a put down. This process can only be a mystery if you have no reason to use it.
Thanks, Markus! Complete Zone System calibration in under 5 minutes.
Long story: In the film days we would test every new batch of film and calibrate against handheld and in-camera light meters to match gamma at different ISO values (ASA/DIN) under standard and push processing. This process took days and allowed us to match previous batches as well as across multiple cameras in need rooms, photo pools, etc. It was laborious and necessary for high-quality photos on a consistent and simplified basis.
I had to subscribe after watching this one. Thanks Markus!
Welcome aboard!
I was going to play the last video over and over untill I got it. This one makes it more simple. I only have older cameras a200 a500 a3000 and I am going to learn this on one for sure. I also have a couple video cameras so I am going to figure it out with them also. Thanks for everything you do. I have learned much from your videos and I do shoot in manual all the time now, playing with the settings after shooting in auto my whole life. Hope everything is good for you. See you on the next one.
Please make a playlist of these settings for dummies. This and the white balance video have helped me understand what they are
Different video but I just picked up a pristine Sony NEX 3G based on your glowing reviews on it, came with a power zoom, such a cool camera, Love the channel, love your excitement for gadgets
In the good old days you would take a light meter and measure the incident light on the subject (or 18% reflectance grey card), the meter would then recommend a f-number which may not necessarily be right for your camera. So you need to take a few shots to determine what the gap is and apply it in the future. With the digital cameras you can make use of the histogram position and zebra setting to do this. Why 18%? Because the experts looked at a large number of photos and decided this average was the best. The exposure meter in your camera should presumably be targeting around this number. Love your work, Markus, please keep going!
True, but again, each camera shows a different histogram for 18% grey, which is why we need to prep one of these two methods first
Agreed👍
Gold, Markus.
Love it.
The most funny "how-to" vídeo I've seen in many years. I'll be laughing for a long time, even centuries. I look at it from my experience as tech support for a software company. The customers were techies too but some didn't get it sometimes. I dreamed on doing a written or recorded "how-to" the way you've done this one but unfortunately these were out of the "corporate rules". We were not allowed to use even RTFM. It was frustrating. ;-)
I didn’t see the previous video but I get it! Makes complete sense to me. Thanks for the years of learning to explain this simply.
It’s really very simple Marcus, and thank you for that tip! To be honest, in the first video, I’ve wached it to the end before I realised what you meant. Also, I was about to buy the glossy one, because it comes complementary on a local store here in Australia, with the Datacolor Elite Pro monitor color correction, but it seems like I’m going to get (or make) also a matte one. It makes sense now why.
Sending love! Sorry this one apparently caused some consternation.
There is one thing I'm assuming, which others might not be, and that is required (I think?) in order for this process to work correctly...
The test photo set, the subsequent dialling in of the optimum exposure, and the establishment of a reference point using histogram/zebras on a grey card/greyscale -HAS TO HAPPEN UNDER CONSISTENT LIGHTING-
...Is that so? So you either want to do this under studio conditions or on a very stable overcast day outside (and quickly!). If the lighting conditions change between test shots and making the reference point, then the "correct" exposure as deduced in the test shots will no longer be correct and you'll up up with a "reference" that systematically under or over exposes.
Exactly! Light changes fast outdoor so the perfect shot photo sample will not always be the right exposure, if your indoor you control the light to be consistent. A 18 % gray card has a shade that is 18 % if it is darker gray well it could be 60% that’s why camera stores recommend you/us 18% and you use that card NOT for right exposure but for right white balance, to achieve best colors in your shoot. I use a handhold light meter where the brightest area is exposed and take a reading so I don’t clip the highlights and this takes me 2 sec to figure out the right exposure. Marcus way works great too because he has figured out what works for him. There is no right or wrong way, just find a quick accurate way that works for you and you good to go. Iam not a professional photographer but I know how to achieve right exposure with the stuff I got. Photography is fun 😊👍
I used a sekonic lightmeter and then shot the grey card. I checked where it was in the histogram so when i used only the grey card in the field, then i set it where it was on my base reading. My Canon RP is more like the G70 or rx10iv. Not all cameras have zebras though
hey i only watched the first 5 seconds but that grey thing is 18% lol. You certainly made the content more concise with this speedrun. Keep fighting the good fight, these kind of videos help a lot of people and most wont ever leave a comment. Yes I am getting it, it makes sense, the setup takes a while, but once its setup its very intuitive and much better than what I have done.
I were stunned with the comments in previous video... People asked questions that literally were answered by demonstration and explanation perfectly.
"Really? Didn't you watch anything?"
What many students are being taught is also competing with everything they've learned (and become accustomed) prior. A student can can hear what you're teaching while simultaneously modifying it mentally. Even simple concepts can therefore be confusing for some.
@@vision-gc4hy You are not supposed to challenge what you are learning on that moment, but be quiet and take it in as told.
Then later on think about what did you see/hear/read and only then when you know what that was, to challenge it with different perspectives and different takes etc.
So in this case, watch the video and listen.
Wait few hours and then come up with opinions about the content, not the person etc.
@@paristo They're not challenging what they're being taught. It occurs unconsciously. It's a barrier to learning for many many people. It's why boot camps break you down completely, before they begin to teach you anything. To drive out your assumptions and habits. Students are often trying to learn but don't know how to learn.
Thank you so much! I am one of those who got it the first time. It is easy indeed and I got great results with Sony CX240 using the card your recommended. And I am not talking about results with more expensive camcorder, which has a zebra. By the way, I am a hobby videographer and not a pro. Thanks again, your videos changed a lot for me.
I have to admit I've only used grey cards for color balance. For exposure, after what I feel looks right in-cam, I just confirm on my waveform that everything is in line and nothing is clipping in the scene.
IM TALKING TO NORMAL PEOPLE 😂😂😂😂 I love it. Always a tech nerd out there to correct you. 😂👍🏼
Normal people are not watching this. They are busy on OF and TT.
I want to know how to expose for the background and then bring lights into the face.
Finally someone explains this like it needs to be 😊
Thank you Markus.
I think I get it. Still think it would have helped to show this setting on the back of any one of your cameras that you can adjust this on. I assume this kind of setting is only available on more prosumer type cameras?
loved your explanation very helpful and will do this with my camera later. thanks
I understand it - I just need to buy one of those colour / white balance cards :)
I love it when you make these types of videos. 😂Thank you for keeping it simple!
How do you do this for Fuji? No zebras in still photography. It only works in video mode.
Completely off topic, but I'm really interested in your paintings. I'm an artist as well and saw your work on other videos, id love to see a video about them, they look incredible. Love your content 👏🏻
Go to markuspaintings.com and click on video
Don't worry, Markus. Most of us got it yesterday. Your explanation yesterday was, as usual, very clear and focused on solving problems. You and your channel are a joy.
Is zebra only for mirrorless? I don’t recall seeing this on my Nikon D810 Dslr.
Might be possible in live view (with mirror up) to have it, you should check. A bit more complicated than with mirrorless.
As usual Brilliant..
Bella 🐈 carries the white balance.. a nice non reflective soft white.. on her paws and chest.
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
A bit puzzled why we need to check our exposure on computer display. If you know to read histogram, you’ll know when you nail exposure. Not sure why comp display is necessary. As someone said, different comps displays have different image “presentation”. 🥴
Because each camera displays histograms differently as I demonstrated in the video. The same grey card 3 different cameras shows up in 3 different locations on their histograms
That’s true. But somehow I know when my pic is correctly exposed without histogram (experience😊), so to save me transfering to comp etc. might try like that! But definitely great advice especially for filming. I have Blackmagic Ursas and Pockets (and drones) so it’ll be super useful to do that (to ballance them all)! Thanks Markus! 👍🏻👍🏻
What is zebra setting?
I needed this second video. I think I need something even more basic. Can you just do it for Lumix GH5?
can someone explain how do you set your camera settings to the perfect exposure based on images corrected in your computer? im confused why this extra step of taking multple shots and findng exposure on computer is necessary before using card
when you say find the perfect exposure on the computer, do you mean making adjustments to the image on computer or choosing the photo with an exposure that looks best on computer ?
Yes, pick the picture that looks best on the computer
@@MarkusPixthank you
Completely off topic because I already understood you the first time...
You always have AWESOME shirts in your videos! Where do you shop for those shirts?
What if you're using the Sony CX405 which doesn't have zebras, or histograms?
Thank You🙏 Much love🌺
💥So this is only for a mirrorless camera? Is there a zebra function for a Nikon D750.?? 🦓
Very practical and good advice!
You're awesome. Thanks so much for the explanation. This and the other video helps so much.
Thank you Markus! Now I need to go watch yesterday's video.
And why not a sekonic light meter ?
Thanks for this, Markus. This video explained what I missed on the first one.
But I sure wish my camera had zebra settings...
Yes ; Photography is an adventure, and it's good to stay on the trail
0:40 If people were whining about that in the comments (I didn't look), it must be the 'measurebators' that don't actually make art and don't share their photos for the world to see (most of them never do, which means you don't know if you should take them seriously), but instead sit around and read camera forums all day debating brands, how to check if your lens is decentered, etc. This is simple to understand the way you're explaining it. Don't worry about the measurebators. You'll never please them.
Thanks. This really helped. 😊
Can you test the Raleno 80W PLV-C80? A bit bigger than your favorites, but does allow 2 Sony PLV-C80 Batteries to be attached at the back (so no balance issues, 60% power) and is quite inexpensive. But how good is it?
I have one. Not sure what PLV-C80 batteries are but it takes normal NP batteries but its too big for my taste for travel since I like to take an average of 4 lights, plus the reflector is full size. It works good as a studio light though.
@@MarkusPix Thanks a lot for your response. Yes it is larger, but since I am just starting, affordability is quite important and it costs less than half of the others. Nice to know it is a good light, though. And thanks so much for all your advice. I really appreciate what you do! By the way, the PLV-C80-batteries was a typo. I meant the normal Sony NP Batteries.
The zebra method seems fast and simple. I mostly spot meter a grey card twice at 45 degrees to the light source. The first time I lock exposure, the second time I lock colour balance. I've been doing it for so many years that it's very fast. That is the lesson, I think, pick a method and let it become second nature.
What if my camera only has zebras in video but I want to take photos? Use blinkies in image review?
That doesn't make sense. Cameras should show zebras before any kind of recording is done. Maybe you're underexposed in photo mode so no zebras are showing up?
@@MarkusPix Canon has a habit of only including zebras for video, and my R6 Mark II follows that. It's a shame that a $2300 camera doesn't include a feature found in cheaper competitors. All I get is highlight alert in image review.
Color Checker pro works just fine for me plus it closes and fits in my camera bag
Thank you for the P S A . I am one of the few that understood you the first time lol but I still watched your video because I really appreciate your content
Im using a ninja V that has zebra settings. I set it on the ninja or in the camera? Or both?
Normal? Normal exists? Who would have known! Great videos by the way.
Got it! Do you ever see the need for a light meter?
So why don't you just use an external light meter?
but how do I put the zebra pictures into my computer?
LOVE the passion, brother. You are definitely inspiring me to shoot more, and correct less 'in post'.
This makes me smile, well done!
i am half way there now...or is it half way the other way?
After much searching, I managed to find a zebra in the zoo. It took me many hours to try to get her back into the camera, unfortunately she was so stubborn that I couldn't do anything. Now, I'm looking at another zoo to see if I can find a more docile zebra.
I certainly love your work.🥰
If you have a camcorder or camera that does not have the zebra pattern do the white balance by aiming at a surface (which can be a cardboard or passport colour checker that has the grayscale or that foldable square table) of medium gray colour to 18%. On the other hand, if you have a camera with the zebra pattern you can use the passport colour checker on which there is the white colour stripe; alternatively you can use a white sheet or, if you really have nothing, a white wall even if it will not be perfect but better than nothing.
I understood and thank u for your enthusiasm from Japan.
Yes Markus, thank you.
Peace✌️
Took me 5 watches but I totally get it now. Thanks for the extra video! One more Q: does this method work for video?
yes of course
Some camera models don't use true ISO. For example Nikon and Canon I know use true ISO this is what I remember back in the DSLR days. Fuji and Olympus and Panasonic tend to under expose a quarter of a stop or so to protect the highlights. This is why different cameras are all over the place.
How do I know what perfect exposure is on a photo?
Sort of related, maybe you can answer Markus, why do so many low-budget films from the 80s look better than a lot of low-budget stuff today with better technology we have now?
Thank you, I will print or buy a card, i'm not the man for slow post-work, I shoot raw only to allow to recover missed exposure settings.
the first method works for me i guess, the second method with color chart doesn't work without zebras (my camera doesn't have one)
Not tried this, but you could probably:
1. Shoot the colour chart at different manual exposures.
2. On computer with colour picker choose the image that gives you the best white and best black.
3. Retake the shot using that exposure settings on manual, but before pressing the shutter adjust the zebras, as Markus explained, so that zebras only appear on white. Manually adjust the exposure 1/3 over and 1/3 under to check zebras work properly. Then press shutter.
4. Appraise result on screen.
I don't even know what my zebra setting is at :D But they're one of the things I like best about modern mirrorless, I generally turn up the exposure until I get a bit just overexposing, that way I know I haven't gone too far. One tutorial calls this "expose for the highlights" and i think that's a good description. Usually it's a bit of white cloud that goes overexposed first, outside.
You can go into the menu to adjust your zebra setting
My camcorder displays details in the highlights that are actually blown out in the recorded version, so relying on the display may not work for everyone.
Never rely on the display. That's why you need to use histograms or zebras
Markus, I have a Canon XA50 which offers only two levels of zebra patter: 100% and 70%. Which method you'd recommend in this case for nailing proper exposure?
Play with it until you know you have a perfect exposure, then hold up a grey scale chart like I have and see where the zebras are on either the 70 or 100 and write it down- for example- at zebra 100, the first square is blinking and with zebra 70, the first 3 squares are blinking. Pick one of those and from that moment forward, whenever you have the 3 sqaures blinking at zebra 70 for example, you know you have the correct exposure
@@MarkusPix thanks a lot!!!