I appreciate, and I'm certainly sure the commenter who asked the original question does as well, you taking the time, despite being in the middle of another project, to quickly but efficiently explain your system. 👏
I shot the video building the baffle over 4 months ago. It has taken me that long to get it edited. I knew if I didn't stop and make it now it would be 6 months are more and didn't want to people to miss out. Next up grade will be inductor switches that detect when a tool is turned on and opens the proper gate.
This is 100% usable for me in my next project. Don't doubt about whether you're helping people or not. Because you're a natural at breaking down the explanation, and you're not bombarding us with stupid music ----carry on thanks again---cudos to you another brilliant presentation
Thanks man. I really appreciate the custom video. This was perfect. Seeing the overview of your setup really helped and answered a lot of questions / concerns I had. The explanation on the micro switches was detailed and easy to understand. Excellent content. I think I’m ready to move forward much thanks to you, and I got a few more ideas out of it.
If others are like me, if it is not simple to use they won't. Then when they look at commercially made systems at $100 per gate then it goes to the bottom of the list. To build a whole switch system for under $50 that is easy to use now there is no excuse for anyone. It has completely changed how I work. I clean organized shop just make me want to put out higher quality work for some reason.
I was kinda wondering how you went about this. I understand electricity, switches, diodes, relays etc., and how they work. However I am not a designer and that makes this video helpful to me. Pretty simple and straight forward.
The only thing better than simple is cheap. I spent $10 and parts I had laying around. It has worked so great for me and so many people are watching my video I am planning on buy new switches and filming me rewiring the system with some wiring diagrams.
Great job explaining a micro switch also. Most people don't realize they can be wired two different ways. I didn't till I put custom limit switches on my aufero laser 2 engraver. Great job.
@squash419 once you start building 3D printers and Laser engravers you realize micro switches and extruded metal is very simple to build with. Micro switches and relays are just an analog version of what all computers do. The only difference is that computers are based on logic gates, and you can set up relays and limit switches to act just like logic Gates.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I am trying to get the shop better setup, trying to get jobs done, and shot videos all at the same time. I feel like they all should be better but I am getting there.
This was I quick video to answer a question for someone who was trying to buld this. It was a lot easier than trying to explain it in a comment. I am slowly getting caught up on my back log of projects. Once I do I plan on reshooting this. I figured a poor video with good info now was better then a good video next year when I get time.
Great Video. Old school laNDLORD/jack of all trades/Master of none. I just done a 105' long trench to run 4-6AWG wires to a sub-panel box in my woodshop. I have a dedicated circuit for my 14A 1350 CFM Dust collector. Branch for lights and 4 other branches for outlets. I really want to wire this up smarter not harder. If you use metal blast gates and keep them horizontal, they don't clog as easily so I have heard. My question is, did you soder that connector box on each blast gate? What model Relay did you use and do you have a link? What size speaker wire? I think I'll have 6 or 7 Blast gates but I want them all hooked up so the DC system turns on when I open one of them,.
Thanks! I’ve ordered the switches and the Relay. I have 22 gauge wire I’ll try to use. I found you other video. i think i got this. such a great help, thank-you!!
good job. awesome idea. i actually use a remote but I spend most of the time looking for it. LOL . where did you gate those blast gates. I have the ones you were using in the demonstration.
I printed them. I have been planning on printing some new ones that have the switch built in. These are working, so it is not on the top of my list of things to do.
crazy helpful , wanted to buy the longrange blast gate on of system , can no longer get it anymore, only thing is in running 220v motor on my dust collector, but your video has put me on the right track, thanks and cheers!
Thanks for the video. There use to be a product called Long Ranger or something like that but it is no where to be found any longer. Sorry if it was answered but what is the name of the pass thru blast gate and where did you get them?
I 3d printed them. I am moving my collector outside, and I am in the process of designing new gates with tactile switches inside. The prototypes came out good. I hope to get a final model done this week. If there is any interest, I may offer them for sale.
I got these from thingiverse.com. I did not use them. I want to design some with the switch's built-in. I just haven't had the time. I hope to get to it soon.
Great tutorilal. I have been wanting to do this myself for a while now but the DC I use is 220V, not 110V. Do you know how which relay I would have to use to make this work for me? Thanks
amzn.to/3ALOdO8 These relays have several models from ac/ac, ac/dc, to dc/dc. They have models 25 amps to 100 amp. They can take 24 volts to 380volts. There should be an option that will work for you.
Have you had any issues with static in your system? The reason I'm asking is when I deleted my plastic bag to the barrel I noticed a lot of static locally on the vacuum. I just ran a ground wire from the motor ground to the metal ring on the vacuum with a ring connector. I've heard others say to run wire inside the pvc and every so often attach it to the pipe to help with static. I haven't ran the pvc runs yet and was just curious
What is the power in CFM you got going through those big pipes!? Nice setup man!!! Petty cool high voltage relays you got there. I would completely enclose those in non conducting waterproof electrical junction boxes, and I would also make sure that all the wiring is going through non-conducting pvc electrical conduit. Yeah more work, but it is way more safe. If those relays ever come loose or the insulation on your wiring wears off or gets wet watch out!!! Keep up the amazing work, and be careful! Something you also might want to consider, not sure if this is how you have it or not, but instead of having all those switches operating at 120 volt, you can lower the voltage for most of your switches to low voltage, and have it so only 1 relay operates at high voltage where it turns the strip on for power, that way you really only have to junction box and conduit that small high voltage circut, and the rest of the system you do not need to highly protect since those will have been lowered to something like 5 volts or less... I am sure you get the point. This way you do not have all those wires running at 120 / way more safe. Again I kinda glanced through the video and you might have already done this. Cheers!
Thanks for taking the time to make such a long post and to be concerned with my safety. I will try to respond to all your points but most will be covered in one thing. The system only has one solid state relay. It operates on 3 to 36 vcd. All the wiring to the micro switches is basically a cell phone charger. I did a follow-up video on how to wire micro switches where I twisted the wires while it was energized with my bare hands. The wires have the same power as a couple of AA batteries running through it. The only 120 AC power is going to the outlet from the power strip. That wire is cut and connected in the solid state relay which has a UL approved clear cover over it. This is all indoors and has no more need to be in a waterproof enclosure then all the outlets in the walls. As far as the CFM when I originally built the system I purchased a anemometer. At the system intake there was no discernible difference before and after the modification. At the farthest end of my piping I believe it was between a 5 and 10% reduction. My table saw is the next the last tool on the system. The pipe goes down through the floor underneath my shop then back up about 5 ft which makes an essence a giant P-trap. I have never had sawdust get built up in it. So for me the most important thing is there is no way that it could work better for what I am doing. The only possible thing that I could think of that would make the system work better for me would be if I built inductor switches that detected when I energized a tool and automatically opened the appropriate blast gate. I hope this answers all of your questions because if one person takes the time to ask that means that they're probably were dozens that wondered the same thing but did not take the time to ask.
It operates on 3-32 volts DC. Almost any power supply will work. It will switch 24-480 volts AC. If you don't have one something like this should work. amzn.to/3CGzaa8
I am super busy but if you run into any problems I will try to answer them as quick as I can. I know how it is getting in the middle of a project and hitting a snag.
I appreciate, and I'm certainly sure the commenter who asked the original question does as well, you taking the time, despite being in the middle of another project, to quickly but efficiently explain your system. 👏
I shot the video building the baffle over 4 months ago. It has taken me that long to get it edited. I knew if I didn't stop and make it now it would be 6 months are more and didn't want to people to miss out. Next up grade will be inductor switches that detect when a tool is turned on and opens the proper gate.
This is 100% usable for me in my next project. Don't doubt about whether you're helping people or not. Because you're a natural at breaking down the explanation, and you're not bombarding us with stupid music ----carry on thanks again---cudos to you another brilliant presentation
Thanks
Thanks for the video! Much simpler than some of the other setups I've seen.
Thanks. I am working on a better video of the wiring. Most all of it is filmed. I hope to finish filming today and will start editing.
@@ShopRamblings A wiring schematic would be a great addition to the video.
Helped me,... Just what I was looking for! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Thanks man. I really appreciate the custom video. This was perfect. Seeing the overview of your setup really helped and answered a lot of questions / concerns I had. The explanation on the micro switches was detailed and easy to understand. Excellent content. I think I’m ready to move forward much thanks to you, and I got a few more ideas out of it.
But I was able to help. If you have any more questions just ask and I'll do my best to answer them.
So simple, yet something I think everybody wants to do to their shop! Thank you for the share!
If others are like me, if it is not simple to use they won't. Then when they look at commercially made systems at $100 per gate then it goes to the bottom of the list. To build a whole switch system for under $50 that is easy to use now there is no excuse for anyone. It has completely changed how I work. I clean organized shop just make me want to put out higher quality work for some reason.
@@ShopRamblings I 100% agree! This is very high on my list for that very same reason.
👍
I was kinda wondering how you went about this. I understand electricity, switches, diodes, relays etc., and how they work. However I am not a designer and that makes this video helpful to me. Pretty simple and straight forward.
Thanks. If you have any questions, I'll be glad to help.
that setup is awesome, thanks for sharing and definitely installing in my shop. thanks again!
I am working on a better video for wiring and piping the system. I hope to have it edited by monday.
Thanks for sharing this! I’ve watched it several times and almost got my system done. Just got to daisy chain a few more gates.
I plan on designing some gates with switches built in. I just don't know when I am going to have time. If I get them done, I will post a new video.
Excellent explanation!
Thanks for the information and examples.
If you need any help, let me know.
You are a genius!!!! Thank you for the video.
You're welcome!
Simple is Better! Thank you for a very useful and 'simple' solution.
The only thing better than simple is cheap. I spent $10 and parts I had laying around. It has worked so great for me and so many people are watching my video I am planning on buy new switches and filming me rewiring the system with some wiring diagrams.
Man thank you so much for these vacuum system videos! Great stuff
Great job explaining a micro switch also. Most people don't realize they can be wired two different ways. I didn't till I put custom limit switches on my aufero laser 2 engraver. Great job.
Glad you like them!
@squash419 once you start building 3D printers and Laser engravers you realize micro switches and extruded metal is very simple to build with. Micro switches and relays are just an analog version of what all computers do. The only difference is that computers are based on logic gates, and you can set up relays and limit switches to act just like logic Gates.
Absolutely useful video. Even if it helps one person, it’s certainly worth it for that user. Thank you sir.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome. So simple and smart. Looks like fun to make and much, much cheaper than the fancy stuff out there
Best part is if it stops working it is easy to troubleshoot and fix cheap.
Thank you for this. Very helpful!
Glad it helped.
Awesome! This helped clarify for me how I want to run mine.
Glad it helped!
Not all heroes wear capes. Thanks.
👍
Nice set up. Thanks for the walk through.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I am trying to get the shop better setup, trying to get jobs done, and shot videos all at the same time. I feel like they all should be better but I am getting there.
Awesome! Straight to the point. 👍
This was I quick video to answer a question for someone who was trying to buld this. It was a lot easier than trying to explain it in a comment. I am slowly getting caught up on my back log of projects. Once I do I plan on reshooting this. I figured a poor video with good info now was better then a good video next year when I get time.
Great idea! Beats using a remote switch where you might misplace the remote.
I can't keep up with a pencil I am writing with much less a remote.
Great Video. Old school laNDLORD/jack of all trades/Master of none. I just done a 105' long trench to run 4-6AWG wires to a sub-panel box in my woodshop. I have a dedicated circuit for my 14A 1350 CFM Dust collector. Branch for lights and 4 other branches for outlets. I really want to wire this up smarter not harder. If you use metal blast gates and keep them horizontal, they don't clog as easily so I have heard.
My question is, did you soder that connector box on each blast gate? What model Relay did you use and do you have a link? What size speaker wire? I think I'll have 6 or 7 Blast gates but I want them all hooked up so the DC system turns on when I open one of them,.
Here are the switches.
amzn.to/3SI2UtH
Any wire will work. It is low voltage. I used old telephone wire before. The last one I did I use 18 gage.
Thanks! I’ve ordered the switches and the Relay.
I have 22 gauge wire I’ll try to use. I found you other video. i think i got this. such a great help, thank-you!!
In this video I explain it better.
th-cam.com/video/OkUbtjo-kM4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zzZjGWr85XiEJm9X
good job. awesome idea. i actually use a remote but I spend most of the time looking for it. LOL . where did you gate those blast gates. I have the ones you were using in the demonstration.
I printed them. I have been planning on printing some new ones that have the switch built in. These are working, so it is not on the top of my list of things to do.
@@ShopRamblings great job
crazy helpful , wanted to buy the longrange blast gate on of system , can no longer get it anymore, only thing is in running 220v motor on my dust collector, but your video has put me on the right track, thanks and cheers!
You just need a 220v relay.
That is a great set up. It would be nice if you had a better video to better understand, but thank you.
This is not published yet. Take a look and let me know what you think. I hope to get it finished by Friday.
th-cam.com/video/OkUbtjo-kM4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. There use to be a product called Long Ranger or something like that but it is no where to be found any longer.
Sorry if it was answered but what is the name of the pass thru blast gate and where did you get them?
I 3d printed them. I am moving my collector outside, and I am in the process of designing new gates with tactile switches inside. The prototypes came out good. I hope to get a final model done this week. If there is any interest, I may offer them for sale.
nice set up Thank you but can i ask please where you got the stl files to 3d print for the blast gates from Thanks joe
I got these from thingiverse.com. I did not use them. I want to design some with the switch's built-in. I just haven't had the time. I hope to get to it soon.
Great tutorilal. I have been wanting to do this myself for a while now but the DC I use is 220V, not 110V. Do you know how which relay I would have to use to make this work for me?
Thanks
amzn.to/3ALOdO8
These relays have several models from ac/ac, ac/dc, to dc/dc. They have models 25 amps to 100 amp. They can take 24 volts to 380volts. There should be an option that will work for you.
Have you had any issues with static in your system? The reason I'm asking is when I deleted my plastic bag to the barrel I noticed a lot of static locally on the vacuum. I just ran a ground wire from the motor ground to the metal ring on the vacuum with a ring connector.
I've heard others say to run wire inside the pvc and every so often attach it to the pipe to help with static.
I haven't ran the pvc runs yet and was just curious
Never had an issue. I asked a friend who has the same setup. He has not had an issue either. We are in Florida. Not sure if that makes a difference.
What is the power in CFM you got going through those big pipes!? Nice setup man!!! Petty cool high voltage relays you got there. I would completely enclose those in non conducting waterproof electrical junction boxes, and I would also make sure that all the wiring is going through non-conducting pvc electrical conduit. Yeah more work, but it is way more safe. If those relays ever come loose or the insulation on your wiring wears off or gets wet watch out!!! Keep up the amazing work, and be careful! Something you also might want to consider, not sure if this is how you have it or not, but instead of having all those switches operating at 120 volt, you can lower the voltage for most of your switches to low voltage, and have it so only 1 relay operates at high voltage where it turns the strip on for power, that way you really only have to junction box and conduit that small high voltage circut, and the rest of the system you do not need to highly protect since those will have been lowered to something like 5 volts or less... I am sure you get the point. This way you do not have all those wires running at 120 / way more safe. Again I kinda glanced through the video and you might have already done this. Cheers!
Thanks for taking the time to make such a long post and to be concerned with my safety. I will try to respond to all your points but most will be covered in one thing. The system only has one solid state relay. It operates on 3 to 36 vcd. All the wiring to the micro switches is basically a cell phone charger. I did a follow-up video on how to wire micro switches where I twisted the wires while it was energized with my bare hands. The wires have the same power as a couple of AA batteries running through it. The only 120 AC power is going to the outlet from the power strip. That wire is cut and connected in the solid state relay which has a UL approved clear cover over it. This is all indoors and has no more need to be in a waterproof enclosure then all the outlets in the walls. As far as the CFM when I originally built the system I purchased a anemometer. At the system intake there was no discernible difference before and after the modification. At the farthest end of my piping I believe it was between a 5 and 10% reduction. My table saw is the next the last tool on the system. The pipe goes down through the floor underneath my shop then back up about 5 ft which makes an essence a giant P-trap. I have never had sawdust get built up in it. So for me the most important thing is there is no way that it could work better for what I am doing. The only possible thing that I could think of that would make the system work better for me would be if I built inductor switches that detected when I energized a tool and automatically opened the appropriate blast gate. I hope this answers all of your questions because if one person takes the time to ask that means that they're probably were dozens that wondered the same thing but did not take the time to ask.
Great job on the tutorial. Do you have links to the relay and micro switches?
I have updated the description with the ones I used. Sorry for not doing it sooner. Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help.
@@ShopRamblings thank you! I wondered if you went 24v. Just have to see if I have a 24v power supply before I go shopping…
It operates on 3-32 volts DC. Almost any power supply will work. It will switch 24-480 volts AC. If you don't have one something like this should work.
amzn.to/3CGzaa8
@@ShopRamblings thanks! I had my inputs and outputs reversed. Just got my white 55 barrel today.
I am super busy but if you run into any problems I will try to answer them as quick as I can. I know how it is getting in the middle of a project and hitting a snag.
Looks like alot of dust on and around your dust collector. Does it work at all?
Good enough for me.
Floor sweep yup good bye dust pan.
I have one on both sides of my shop.
You are very confusing Sir!
Try this one.if it doesn't help let me know.
th-cam.com/video/OkUbtjo-kM4/w-d-xo.html
SUPER helpful! Thank you kind sir!
Glad it helped!