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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ต.ค. 2024
- This DIY details how to replace the entire hood latch and cable system from the interior handle to the the hood latch itself. The car in the video is an 02/2000 BMW E39 M5.
Parts:
(6) Torx bolts for hood latches: 07146985055
(2) Hood latches: 51238203859
(1) Bowden cable from interior handle to junction box: 51238176595
(1) Bowden cable junction box to first latch: 51238190754
(1) Bowden cable between hood latches: 51238176596
*(1) Aux Fan: 64546921395
*(4) Aux Fan Nuts: 22316760944
*Optional parts
FCP Euro with Lifetime Parts Warranty: www.fcpeuro.com
E39Source website: www.e39source.com
Help support E39Source by donating: www.e39source.c...
Your TH-cam videos are amazingly clear and I'm astounded by how meticulously you maintain your cars. I wish I had a a fully equipment shop to work in like yours, especially a hoist. So, I just completed a full cable and latch replacement on my 2003 manual 540i and did it without removing the bumper and other assorted frontal components so I figured it would be useful to post that part of the procedure here for future reference. The main benefit is gaining access to the latches by loosening the cross member into which the latches are attached. This is done by removing the four headlight bolts on both sides and sliding them forward an inch or so., loosening the torx screws holding the latches and removing the 2 at the front. Then remove phillips head screws and the radiator support bracket bolts and the 10mm hex bolt at either end of the crossmember. Then punch through the pins in the centre of the 3 plastic expansion rivets, being careful to place a rag underneath them to catch the pins for reuse. Now the crossmember can be lifted up and tilted forward enough to gain access to the latches. Remove the remaining torx screw from each of the latches and ease them out together from under the crossmember. The remaining procedure is the same as Ryan's. Doing the job this way means it can be done solo and in much less time.
followed this guys video from start to finish.one or two little differences in vehicles but everything went smooth because of this video..me and my 15 1/2 year old grandson did it in a little over 4 hours .we were able to beat his time by not making a video...thanks for your help sir
Thanks a bunch... I am now a TH-cam certified master automotive technician thanks to you.
Ryan, these are the best videos for DIY'ers, with clear comprehensive directions including what is needed to complete the job. Great work, keep it up!!!
Thank you for watching and for your support and feedback!
Nothing's worse than a weak cable that feels like it's about to go. Thanks for posting.
Excellent explanation, thank you, much more clear. I bought the complete cables did not know what I needed to remove. Great job. Regards. From Caracas Venezuela. E39 540i. Owner.
Thank you very much for the hood release cable (cabin) replacement instructions! Helped me a lot today after the cable broke last week. Still took me a good 3-4 hours to change it, also mainly because putting the dead pedal back was such pain in the ass. Great video and gonna watch the rest later if the other cables require replacement. 👍
I had some troubles getting the junction box open. In case you missed it, you push the tabs forward (toward the cables inside the junction box) and just kind of fidget it. I had to use a flat head to push them. Got it after a few tries. Great video, thanks!
I just bought my E39 M5 over the weekend. When I drove it home and try to open the hood, the cable broke on me. I've been trying to figure out how to open the hood the last couple of days. Thanks for your video.
I have a funny feeling that this is about to be my next failure. Just replaced the aux. fan on my 2000 540i and it wasn't too bad. Ended up replacing all those plastic rivets because they were brittle and crumbled upon removal. I really like your videos. Great work, and best of luck keeping it in the best shape possible.
Thanks for the kind words! Were you able to find the part number for those three rivets that I couldn't get the center out of until they were removed? The correct # doesn't seem to be there on RealOEM.
@@E39Source I found the rivets on Ebay. Looks like they are used on several models. The part number listed was 51 71 822 9003. They came in a pack of 4 for the air duct, which is that plastic shroud in front of the aux. fan.
Jonathan Edwards are the rivets sold on eBay made by BMW?
@@Twghost I really don't know. Most of those parts like fasteners are not BMW branded from what I have experienced. If you bought them from a BMW dealer, they would be in a bag with a BMW parts network sticker on it. I am actually going to install these this weekend, and will report the progress.
Preventive maintenance! Much better now in the garage than on the road. Well donne!
I like your way of doing things, going extra mile with everything. I like to do it the same way although my budget and E39 is in way worse condition to start with :)
No sense in not doing a job right!
I love that this vid came out right after my M5's cable broke at the handle.
Just a little maintenance advice, put some grease on the latches and the hood bolts as well from time to time, to avoid them getting stuck and putting too much force on the cable, and also they wont rust so bad.
What a brilliant work procedure! Thanks a lot mate
Thanks for your excellent video and commentary on the work you perform. I use your reasoning and explanations for DIY on my '03 E39 saloon.
Got the same issue with my M5 will put that vids on my watch later when I’ll be ready... by the way I didn’t email you back but I bought it and I’m very happy for what I got for that bellow 10k usd M5... been an e39 540i for barely 10 year I can see the difference on the power :-) just a hint it come with a tubi exhaust... I’ll email you more details later this week.
Awesome! Can't wait to hear more.
FYI!! You don't break or saw the grills. They pop right out, just go easy on them, then use a small rachet with T35 to remove the spring locks.
Great post. I just ran across this one yesterday & seeing your frayed hood cable got me worried. I just checked it out & we are good for now. I open the hood a lot so wondering how many times yours was opened to fray it that bad.
My hood latches had gotten rusty after exposure to many Ohio winters. The rusty latches were sticking and causing the hood release cables to work extra hard to open them.
The dead pedal absolutely doesn't go back in. Any tips?
Is it possible to do the latches without removing the bumper, headlights, etc? Impossible or just not as straightforward? Thanks!
You may have to break some welds. I would just do it this way, it just takes time. None of it is hard.
This is probably the “correct” way but if you are careful you can do it with removing the head lights and flexing the cross member
To make you life easier when installing rubber parts in/through any other material, ALWAYS use a little kitchen dish soap on the rubber... will make it pop in no fuss.. when it it gets wet, it will wash away...!! Example: the hood latch cable through the firewall, as in this video... or the front/rear window surround gasket... dish soap it!!.
What is this green and black box? 6:58. i don’t have one of these in my car and i’m wondering if this is why i’m not getting any sound from my speakers. please help.
Great video, do these require any adjustment? My passenger side latch doesn’t fully release and I have to pull the hood hard to get it to release
I changed the cables throughout and cleaned and greased the rest. So much better and peace of mind. FCP Euro is the only US based online parts retailer that has well priced shipping to Australia. I use them exclusively when not using clickableautomotive.com.au
So then you wouldn't recommend doing this if I don't work on my car? I know a thing or two but mostly I watch my friend do it. I would like to get an M5 in about 6 months, but like I said I'm not a mechanic and my friends have never worked on an M5 before, how hard is it to work on things, especially in the engine area or the suspension? I appreciate any advice I can get because I reaaallly fell in love with it
When I got this car I had never worked on a car before, in any capacity. If you're careful, resourceful, and patient, you'll be able to do anything eventually. There are lots of resources out there, just prepare yourself with those and go from there.
Alright, I think I'm gonna go for the M5 after all... Thanks for the advice and the DIY vids
@@pbluma I own a 5 series like that. You can do everything on the car indeed. But after 7 years of ownership, I really fed up that there is hardly a bolt that I haven't taken apart on this.
love your brake and accelerator pedals, where did you get those from? Also what is the part number for the junction box?
These are the Bimmian brand pedals that have unfortunately not been available for years. The Genuine BMW performance pedal kit works fine for the clutch and brake pedal, though the throttle pedal they used is the standard E39's (non-M5) shorter pedal, so it won't work. Junction box: bit.ly/3nTqKEg
Is the part # the same for all bmw’s?
Thank you so much, was very helpful. I'm rolling the dice with MTC latch assemblies, 2 for $27 on eBay. Genuine cables however.
Any luck with using MTC? Couldnt find any reviews on those and the OE are like $80+ a piece! Any feedback would be appreciated. thanks!
@@nasserkhaja1879 oh they worked great! It threw me off that they weren't tapped, but the bolt still goes in, I would absolutely recommend MTC here
adampa1006 thanks! Going to try them out!
00:35 But how do you open the hood without opening the driver’s door to get to the hood latch handle? 🤔 Jk, love your channel man!
I do this on my e39. I only change the first kable. And now i cant open the hood. There is no traction on the kable. On 15:00 there is the hole for the rubber. I don't know how deep I have to put that in. Can some one help?
Thanks
For the Aux Fan, is the Mahle-Behr brand the same as the Behr/Hella brand you mentioned?
Good question- it probably is functionally. I would be fine with a Mahle-Behr brand fan.
@@E39Source thank you! I will be ordering and doing this exact operation soon.
My left look latch doesn’t lock. And I can wiggle the hood to pop the right. My cable broke at the plastic connector. My cables are rusted solid and don’t work.
What is the part number for the Junction Box?
Is the process the same for a BMW E46 318i?
It would be very similar.
I replaced the first half of the cable, but now wont my hood close
First half as in starting from the handle? This would not affect the hood's ability to latch shut.
Nice and beauty everything
Does anyone have any experience with the Behr Hella service aux fan? I know some of the Behr Hella stuff is junk, but their premium line and other select parts are good (even made in Germany).
I just replaced mine in the 540i. They are a good product. Make sure you get the right one for the year car you have. I made the mistake of buying one from a 97 MY and it did NOT work. Wrong plug. 3 wire vs. my 4 wire. Real OEM is your friend for parts numbers.
So far so good, Behr/Hella makes a ton of parts for BMW, so I wouldn't worry about this.
This guy must be a millionaire. Buying a. original BMW pots.. The majority of us can only afford aftermarket parts.
This guy has original BMW pots, Wow
You dont need to take anyyyy of the stuff you took apart to do this job. I took the just the 2, 8mm bolts for the fan shroud and propped an opening took 10 mins overall to do all 3 cables... what in the world lol
You removed two 8mm fan shroud bolts? What car did you do this on? Only plastic pop rivets hold the E39 fan shroud in place. What do you mean by 'propped an opening'? I am not aware of any easier way to do this than how I did it for the E39.
For some reason, after watching this video I am afraid to open my E39 ///M5 hood. lol
Franzj?
The New Cable COMES with a brand new grommet, so just cut the old grommet to facilitate removing the old cable.. th-cam.com/video/Nik5vFerksY/w-d-xo.html
@22:52...I bet you want a new radiator.
That's just the AC condenser. I cleaned it up before reassembling everything. Radiator has been replaced and looks pretty good.
why did you work so hard at it take a welding rod and stick ah fallin wedge in there put little pressure on the hood not to much knock the flux off welding rod put about 20
degree bend in rod
go in between headlight and grill peice find latch and push pop right open dont got take no stickin grill out mikeys fix all mikey huff us hillbillys got it goin on need anymore help call
p.s. iwas cheifengeneer alaska fish boats can fix anything tus mikeys fix all 208 304 6375
WTF
i don't think that everybody are running to spend $200 + on those parts alone
very expensive
If the cables break, you don't have a choice!
what do you mean $200? I got new cable with handle for 7 euros and mint condition used hood locks with cables for 10 euros lol