His explanation is absolutely accurate. Its all comes down to experience and technique. I learned all this in trade school ( I am an absolute dinosaur). We only had oxy/ acetylene welding equipment and added a lot more heat and shrinkage than mig or tig. The weld with oxy/ acetylene was very maliable like a tig weld and is basically the same skill set. The difference is an electric flame that depending on your welding machine is much easily controlled versus a gas flame that requires much more understanding of min ute setting changes. But it all boils down to if theres more shrinkage, it requires more stretching. As he accurately explains, at the source or the shrinkage..the weld bead...hammer the bead and stretch it back out.. I grew up with a bullseye pick and a vixen file. Remember that the file is only a marking tool to see you highs and lows. It is straight and you can trust it better than your hands sense of feel. ( think guide coat). Knock down the highs if necessary and pick up the lows.. with a little practice you can be producing beautiful metal work! There's a lot of leeway in techniques according to what is most comfortable to you.. and only you can determine if the results are satisfactory...but always strive to improve and learn from other people's techniques. Bodywork and metal shaping is a life long journey. Enjoy the journey!
This has got to be the best patch panel video I have ever watched. I've seen too many people approach fabricating a patch panel without fully forming the patch to match the profile of the panel they are patching. They put a couple of tacks on one edge and and force the rest of the patch to fit the panel. This builds tension into the patch which will transfer into the larger panel at some point. This may not be a big deal on a small patch, but on a larger patch it will pull the original metal out of it's proper alignment causing bulges and weirdness and if your body is on a rotiisserie, good luck getting that to sit on the frame real nice. You also made a good point about cutting a radius on the corners of the patch panel. Another good reason for doing this is that if you have a sharp 90 degree corner on a patch, you hit that corner twice with the torch (once horizontal and once verticle) doubling the heat introduced to that corner which causes more warpage than the other weld areas turning them nto a problem which could have been avoided by making the corners into curves. If anyone out there wants to build the Gene Winfield sheet metal bender, there are plenty of videos on TH-cam about how to make one. Great video... loads of good advice.
Square corners are a no-no in metal work. You radius crank journals, lathe work, even sheet metal. History reports failures on the DeHavelin jet aircraft at the square windows that destroyed structure in the airframe causing 3 crashes. I love that bending pipe jig with schedule 40 pipe. Home stores will sell pre-cut black pipe but has oil on it, so clean then weld. $100? Caster from harbor freight not included but get two locking and two swivel. You have a man with new tool! Or lassi. I like flange tool with proper depth. Great lesson and wish I could buy a TIG. $1,500+ is not in my future. Thanks.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Even in retirement my wife spends money and I have $12 left over. I will have to save for a while. Thanks anyhow for the advice. I still enjoy watching and got my son to subscribe.
Hey man, I am looking at starting a DIY restoration on a pretty expensive and rare chassis. I appreciate these videos and im glad you are continuing to do them!
Great video on patch panels. That Winfield anvil is the best. I'm planning on making one soon. I'm low budget and don't have the sophisticated equipment to work with. My question is, would it be possible to weld another size pipe to the lower pipes on the anvil (on the 3" and 1") and bend downward on the newly added pipes?
If the medium tube is 3", the large tube sure looks like it is a 6". Your numbers of the size tube do not seem to match the pictures of the anvil. It makes me wonder if you are labeling the sizes incorrectly. Steel is expensive today and to build one from scratch with new material is not a twenty dollar project. Could you please verify the sizes and state whether it is pipe or tube? You used schedule 40 as a thickness and that references pipe and with pipe it is measured I.D. and that would be a different radius. I am confused completely. I would like to build one but not using 1", 3" and 4" as claimed. It seems not large enough for a large crown area and would require more shifting the metal to get a crown which can make for more errors to correct in my confused mind. I watch several people that do body work and use the pipe anvil to make curves and even homemade brakes. Fitzee comes to mind immediately. He is not a body builder such as Wray Schelin and his "cut&butt'" method it sound. I like your work as well and try to learn so that when I tackle my project, I will be better informed as to how to fix rust areas and make patches and not look like patches on a fuselage in a combat area. I was an airframe repairman in the Air Force.
Keep in mind it does not need to be any specific diameters. I just grabbed scrap out of the yard to make it. Use whatever shapes and sizes you need for your project.
A Mike cameo and some clown horn time!!! Bravo gentlemen! Two thumbs enthusiastically up!!!! 👍🏼👍🏼 In all seriousness a master class on patches. You included the details that make ALL the difference. This video saves hours of head scratching and trial and error.
Does a perfect patch panel like you have made need to be covered with fiberglass filler? Does the patch change in the sun and that is why it’s recommended to cover it? Thank you for your time
another great video , thank you im definatly building one of those metal breaks, thinking about it , trying to figure out how to make the tubes removable to increase or decrease size tubing for different projects , thanks again
That answered a lot of questions about welding ghost lines. I weld all my panels in with MIG. I did metal work as much of the weld I could. Because quarter panel is on car.
Once again, very well explained process! that pipe brake gave me a number of ideas..thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge, so many shops want to protect their processes. Cheers,Pat
My brain is imploding. There is soo much I didn't realize that goes into body work like this. All I wanted to know is how to replace rust spots. And got a whole new outlook. Thanks for explaining everything so well!
Just found your TH-cam page, very happy I did. You should be an instructor! Very informative and detailed, Thank you.. I have subscribed and will be watching all your other videos. Thanks again. We are trying to restore an 89 K5, damn thing is almost new now..... Never knew they rusted like this...
Hi, Unrelated to the video question. In a number of you videos you talk about how bad sand blasting is for a car and messes all the panels up. Have you tride the new laser paint and rust removal systems? From what I've there are two clases of laser rust/paint removers; continious lasers and pulsed lasers. For removing paint and rust I've heard that the pulsed lasers are better as they put less energy/heat into the panel and note pulsed lasers for rust and paint removal are normally between 100W to 300W. The continuos lasers are 1000W and up. They seem to do a nice job removing heavy rust and paint but the parts are too hot to touch after the laser has been used. The nice thing with the continious laser is you can weld and cut with them. There are always trade offs.
I worked at a high end shop called Street Works here in Wisconsin and a guy with way more talent then me made complete rear quarters for a 67 Buick skylark from flat sheet metal. With very minimal body filler when done
Well that was an education by thorough knowledge, experience, instruction and demonstration. The most comprehensive and indepth panel fitment video I have ever watched. Very professional and I must say, the delivery style of the lesson, first class tutoring! Even an old dog like me learned something new and worthwhile and will use what I learned on either my old Jaguar or on a customers car in due course.
You are very thorough and knowledgeable. I learn a lot from your videos.But It's hard for me to justify spending the time it takes to hammer dolly and get that "mirror" your talking about, if the car is going to be covered in filler from headlights to taillights anyway. Is it worth hours of metal finish work just to have .080 thickness of filler instead of .180 thickness? Am I missing something?
In my opinion, yes you have different thicknesses of metal at the Weld seam. If you do not take the tension out of the panel when it heats up in the sun, you will get a different finish for example, if you bodywork it perfect depending on the temperature down the road, it will change the finish of the car.
Man you are good. Did I say you are good? This was perfection. Thank you for these video’s.
Thank you! Just a guy improving on each project 👍🏻
His explanation is absolutely accurate. Its all comes down to experience and technique. I learned all this in trade school ( I am an absolute dinosaur). We only had oxy/ acetylene welding equipment and added a lot more heat and shrinkage than mig or tig. The weld with oxy/ acetylene was very maliable like a tig weld and is basically the same skill set. The difference is an electric flame that depending on your welding machine is much easily controlled versus a gas flame that requires much more understanding of min ute setting changes. But it all boils down to if theres more shrinkage, it requires more stretching. As he accurately explains, at the source or the shrinkage..the weld bead...hammer the bead and stretch it back out.. I grew up with a bullseye pick and a vixen file. Remember that the file is only a marking tool to see you highs and lows. It is straight and you can trust it better than your hands sense of feel. ( think guide coat). Knock down the highs if necessary and pick up the lows.. with a little practice you can be producing beautiful metal work! There's a lot of leeway in techniques according to what is most comfortable to you.. and only you can determine if the results are satisfactory...but always strive to improve and learn from other people's techniques. Bodywork and metal shaping is a life long journey. Enjoy the journey!
Could not agree more!! Thank you
This has got to be the best patch panel video I have ever watched. I've seen too many people approach fabricating a patch panel without fully forming the patch to match the profile of the panel they are patching. They put a couple of tacks on one edge and and force the rest of the patch to fit the panel. This builds tension into the patch which will transfer into the larger panel at some point. This may not be a big deal on a small patch, but on a larger patch it will pull the original metal out of it's proper alignment causing bulges and weirdness and if your body is on a rotiisserie, good luck getting that to sit on the frame real nice. You also made a good point about cutting a radius on the corners of the patch panel. Another good reason for doing this is that if you have a sharp 90 degree corner on a patch, you hit that corner twice with the torch (once horizontal and once verticle) doubling the heat introduced to that corner which causes more warpage than the other weld areas turning them nto a problem which could have been avoided by making the corners into curves. If anyone out there wants to build the Gene Winfield sheet metal bender, there are plenty of videos on TH-cam about how to make one. Great video... loads of good advice.
Thank you so much
Good technical breakdown, metallurgy is key to great quality repair. Your technique is very high level and helps keep metal finishing alive. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Square corners are a no-no in metal work. You radius crank journals, lathe work, even sheet metal. History reports failures on the DeHavelin jet aircraft at the square windows that destroyed structure in the airframe causing 3 crashes. I love that bending pipe jig with schedule 40 pipe. Home stores will sell pre-cut black pipe but has oil on it, so clean then weld. $100? Caster from harbor freight not included but get two locking and two swivel. You have a man with new tool! Or lassi. I like flange tool with proper depth. Great lesson and wish I could buy a TIG. $1,500+ is not in my future. Thanks.
Start saving up ! 👊🏻👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Even in retirement my wife spends money and I have $12 left over. I will have to save for a while. Thanks anyhow for the advice. I still enjoy watching and got my son to subscribe.
Hey man, I am looking at starting a DIY restoration on a pretty expensive and rare chassis. I appreciate these videos and im glad you are continuing to do them!
Glad to help! Thank you
Brilliant... thank you for your advice, education and willingness to us all that knowledge
Glad it was helpful!
Great technical explanation!
One thing i learned long ago from Kerry Pinkerton and Dutch Comstock is shape versus surface area
Another great Video , very well explained, your a very good teacher, and you explained every aspect of the process in detail. Thanks again
Thank you
Great video on patch panels. That Winfield anvil is the best. I'm planning on making one soon. I'm low budget and don't have the sophisticated equipment to work with. My question is, would it be possible to weld another size pipe to the lower pipes on the anvil (on the 3" and 1") and bend downward on the newly added pipes?
As long as you have clearance just mock it up and try
Someone needs to have Bad Chad watch this.
It wouldn't make a difference. Lol
I was thinking that 😂
You guys crack me up 😂
Have you experimented with copper backers. Minimize heat affected zone and weld support. Thanks for putting out excellent vids. 👍
When I first started yes but once you get the hang of it it’s not needed.
Nice video, I learned a lot! Subscribing for your other content.
Awesome, thank you!
Awesome video! Thank you!!
Glad you liked it!
Excellent tutorial.......
Glad you liked it!
Very detailed great stuff
Glad you think so!
@SYLVESTER CUSTOMS they're called Rare Earth Magnets or Neodymium Magnets.
If the medium tube is 3", the large tube sure looks like it is a 6". Your numbers of the size tube do not seem to match the pictures of the anvil. It makes me wonder if you are labeling the sizes incorrectly. Steel is expensive today and to build one from scratch with new material is not a twenty dollar project. Could you please verify the sizes and state whether it is pipe or tube? You used schedule 40 as a thickness and that references pipe and with pipe it is measured I.D. and that would be a different radius. I am confused completely. I would like to build one but not using 1", 3" and 4" as claimed. It seems not large enough for a large crown area and would require more shifting the metal to get a crown which can make for more errors to correct in my confused mind. I watch several people that do body work and use the pipe anvil to make curves and even homemade brakes. Fitzee comes to mind immediately. He is not a body builder such as Wray Schelin and his "cut&butt'" method it sound. I like your work as well and try to learn so that when I tackle my project, I will be better informed as to how to fix rust areas and make patches and not look like patches on a fuselage in a combat area. I was an airframe repairman in the Air Force.
Keep in mind it does not need to be any specific diameters. I just grabbed scrap out of the yard to make it. Use whatever shapes and sizes you need for your project.
WoW
Now of course you will be using a polyester type primer filler over the whole thing snd then block the heck out of it.
I don’t use polyester primer.
Why u don't show your gun setting before spray anything.
We don't paint in this video but explain it in detail in this one.
m.th-cam.com/video/edTsfVaQuGI/w-d-xo.html
A Mike cameo and some clown horn time!!! Bravo gentlemen! Two thumbs enthusiastically up!!!! 👍🏼👍🏼
In all seriousness a master class on patches. You included the details that make ALL the difference. This video saves hours of head scratching and trial and error.
Thanks Phil!! 👊🏻😎
Does a perfect patch panel like you have made need to be covered with fiberglass filler? Does the patch change in the sun and that is why it’s recommended to cover it? Thank you for your time
No we never use fiberglass filler on metal. It will not change in the sun if it’s metal finished. Just coat it in epoxy
another great video , thank you im definatly building one of those metal breaks, thinking about it , trying to figure out how to make the tubes removable to increase or decrease size tubing for different projects , thanks again
Go for it! Just bolt it together
That answered a lot of questions about welding ghost lines. I weld all my panels in with MIG. I did metal work as much of the weld I could. Because quarter panel is on car.
Quite possibly the best patch panel instructional video on You Tube. 👏👏👏
Wow, thanks!
Once again, very well explained process! that pipe brake gave me a number of ideas..thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge, so many shops want to protect their processes. Cheers,Pat
Glad to help
My brain is imploding. There is soo much I didn't realize that goes into body work like this. All I wanted to know is how to replace rust spots. And got a whole new outlook. Thanks for explaining everything so well!
Glad it was helpful!
Just found your TH-cam page, very happy I did. You should be an instructor! Very informative and detailed, Thank you.. I have subscribed and will be watching all your other videos. Thanks again. We are trying to restore an 89 K5, damn thing is almost new now..... Never knew they rusted like this...
Love k5’s I had an 84 myself. We periodicly instruct the classes here at the shop. Thanks for watching.
Hi, Unrelated to the video question. In a number of you videos you talk about how bad sand blasting is for a car and messes all the panels up. Have you tride the new laser paint and rust removal systems? From what I've there are two clases of laser rust/paint removers; continious lasers and pulsed lasers. For removing paint and rust I've heard that the pulsed lasers are better as they put less energy/heat into the panel and note pulsed lasers for rust and paint removal are normally between 100W to 300W. The continuos lasers are 1000W and up. They seem to do a nice job removing heavy rust and paint but the parts are too hot to touch after the laser has been used. The nice thing with the continious laser is you can weld and cut with them. There are always trade offs.
I need someone who has one so we could test it with them!! That would be awesome
THANKS!!! Learned lots from this!
👍🏻👍🏻
I worked at a high end shop called Street Works here in Wisconsin and a guy with way more talent then me made complete rear quarters for a 67 Buick skylark from flat sheet metal. With very minimal body filler when done
That’s awesome!!
Hi can you tell me what brand and model of lights you have in your shop and if your happy with them. They look very nice and bright on camera
Sylvania lights but I don’t recall the model sorry.
Very time consuming if you want it right ! You must not rush your work if you want a next to perfect finish !
Absolutely!
Oh man, this is one heck of a good education! Thanks
Glad you think so! Thx for watching
What a great job very informative 👏
Thank you!!
Well that was an education by thorough knowledge, experience, instruction and demonstration. The most comprehensive and indepth panel fitment video I have ever watched. Very professional and I must say, the delivery style of the lesson, first class tutoring! Even an old dog like me learned something new and worthwhile and will use what I learned on either my old Jaguar or on a customers car in due course.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you
You are very thorough and knowledgeable. I learn a lot from your videos.But It's hard for me to justify spending the time it takes to hammer dolly and get that "mirror" your talking about, if the car is going to be covered in filler from headlights to taillights anyway. Is it worth hours of metal finish work just to have .080 thickness of filler instead of .180 thickness? Am I missing something?
In my opinion, yes you have different thicknesses of metal at the Weld seam. If you do not take the tension out of the panel when it heats up in the sun, you will get a different finish for example, if you bodywork it perfect depending on the temperature down the road, it will change the finish of the car.
Invaluable information , and greatly appreciated.Many thanks.
Our pleasure!
Thanks for the video a question could you carry the sharpie line onto the anvil to ensure that you are placing the panel in the same position???
Yes that’s a great idea!!
Can you recommend a good 2 stage air compressor that can keep up with air sanders and sandblasting? Thank you
Unfortunately everyone’s needs are different when it comes to CFM’s the ingersol Rand I have isn’t even big enough for what we do on the daily.
Excellent video. So many knowledge bombs I lost count.
Thank you!
great video
My old man would say more thinking equals less welding.Your spot on.
Thank you
Love it
Another awesome instructional video.
Thanks again!
Really nice explanations….top work..
Thanks a lot!
Appreciate this man. He is giving you a real lesson!
Thank you!!
Very informative video. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
best content so well explained Thank you !!
Glad you think so!
Thank you.very clear great lesson
You’re Welcome
Great video!! Very interesting.
Thank you!
Great information! Thanks!!!
Our pleasure!
Thank you for the mini lesson!
Glad it was helpful!
Next shop tool fab project
You won't regret it.
Top tier video!
Thanks!
Thank you!
You’re welcome
To get it right sure takes a lot of patience. But the end result sure seems to be worth it.🥸👍👍👍👍👍
👍🏻👍🏻