I really like how you press, drill and trim in the same position. I wonder if you could add a vacuum hold down wo you wouldn't have to grind off the tabs before buffing. I also wondered if you have any ideas to automate the buffing process? I am loving this content, it's really cool to see how you solve these problems!
Fascinating. It seems that it would be more productive to mold and machine multiple sheaths at once. Is there a size limitation somewhere that prevents doing so?
The problem with fixed blade sheath knives is people have the audacity to expect you provide a sheath. I LOATHE sheath making. My knife screams for kydex, but a generic leather one is the easy button. But this CNC method may be the answer.
I LOATH kydex, I've had to make every sheath at least twice, and it's because the rivets/eyelets split or don't seat properly when I go to set them. Hate hate hate kydex...
You would need to use something other than an FDM printer since the kydex is about 370F when it hits the mold. That heat will deform any FDM print, you might be able to use a resin printer though. The challenge there is the size of the print bed since some of these sheath molds get pretty big. HDPE is commonly used for molds, its relatively cheap and holds up surprisingly well. Apparently a HDPE holster mold will last for 1000+ holsters, then when it wears out you can quickly cut a new one. Fortunately the cost of CNC routers has come down a lot over the years so you don't need to spend an insane amount like Walter said.
@@DULLBOYBLADES "The melting point of HDPE typically ranges from 120°C to 180°C (248°F to 356°F), with an average melting point of 130°C (266°F)." Plastics are poor conductors of heat, just because you are touching another hot plastic doesn't mean they will stick instantly. Virtually all of them should work as mold if you use a high infill and a release agent. Furthermore, after applying the kydex and turning on the vacuum, you can cool the kydex with compressed air. I'm not inventing vacuum forming with fdm it's a known process th-cam.com/video/-LRsTd7wt20/w-d-xo.html
TJ Schwarz’s channel is so awesome, great to hear you recommending his content!
Stellar work as always good sir! One of my all time favorite knife making channels, keep it up! 🗡️
I really like how you press, drill and trim in the same position. I wonder if you could add a vacuum hold down wo you wouldn't have to grind off the tabs before buffing. I also wondered if you have any ideas to automate the buffing process? I am loving this content, it's really cool to see how you solve these problems!
So are you only using the holes for the rivets for the vacuum ?
Fascinating. It seems that it would be more productive to mold and machine multiple sheaths at once. Is there a size limitation somewhere that prevents doing so?
How did the membrane setup work for you? I’ve been thinking about building a membrane system myself.
Great Information Sir !
The problem with fixed blade sheath knives is people have the audacity to expect you provide a sheath. I LOATHE sheath making. My knife screams for kydex, but a generic leather one is the easy button. But this CNC method may be the answer.
I'd like to see a DIY amateur approach to making kydex sheaths for older knives in my collection that have crappy nylon or plastic sheaths.
th-cam.com/video/uVoeOeeguIs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PR1fdXAM_H70Agj7
One of Walter's older videos, really useful!
I LOATH kydex, I've had to make every sheath at least twice, and it's because the rivets/eyelets split or don't seat properly when I go to set them. Hate hate hate kydex...
You can make the mold with 3d printing, a cheap 200 USD machine can do that.
That's a great idea, if you wanted too you could commission it to get a quality template and move from there as well
You would need to use something other than an FDM printer since the kydex is about 370F when it hits the mold. That heat will deform any FDM print, you might be able to use a resin printer though. The challenge there is the size of the print bed since some of these sheath molds get pretty big. HDPE is commonly used for molds, its relatively cheap and holds up surprisingly well. Apparently a HDPE holster mold will last for 1000+ holsters, then when it wears out you can quickly cut a new one. Fortunately the cost of CNC routers has come down a lot over the years so you don't need to spend an insane amount like Walter said.
I can assure you PLA 3D filament won’t work for kydex molding. Melts reeeeal nice when you put the kydex to it. 😅
@@DULLBOYBLADES "The melting point of HDPE typically ranges from 120°C to 180°C (248°F to 356°F), with an average melting point of 130°C (266°F)." Plastics are poor conductors of heat, just because you are touching another hot plastic doesn't mean they will stick instantly. Virtually all of them should work as mold if you use a high infill and a release agent. Furthermore, after applying the kydex and turning on the vacuum, you can cool the kydex with compressed air. I'm not inventing vacuum forming with fdm it's a known process th-cam.com/video/-LRsTd7wt20/w-d-xo.html
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Hey Walter, just leave the denim shirts on. That sweat shirt just looks like you just pulled it over your head to make the video.