Yeah was about to say! That inductor limits the current draw(impedence) also SUPPOSED TO block noise/AC spikes back to the supply. Tho it looks like it may unintentionally act as a tank circuit(in parallel with capacitor)...which is not ideal/ Will create noise
@@HVEHey, after one year I‘d like to reiterate the question myself. Very interested in the calculations for approximating ZVS in resonant circuits. Especially what values chokes should have to achieve ZVS say in baxandall oscillators
Great video outstanding video thankyou, very detailed, well explained, awesome, just wondered I've noticed enough times electronics experimenters with coughs, do you think there is any aspect of electronics experimenting has any harmful health effects?
Without improvement as putting bigger sink - heat, replace resistor 220 with double power and the same resistance 100ome, it is almost designed not for longer then 30 - 60 seconds. There is not much to improve. Do not put it in plexiglass cage. It will aggravate already poor cooling system and you will pay extra money. The vertical design of that device also aggravates cooling system. Do not try drill a hole in the porcelain on which is winded coil it will ruin your drill bit. Keep it away from any electronics , in my case electronic clock on a wall was reset each time I turned generator on. Every main component gets overheated very quickly. It is better to design and build own generator without overheating problems than try to fix this one. The operating frequency should be between 10 - 30 MHz.
How long can It run without overheating? I wanna build one that is battery powered just like an electric lighter. What parts would need cooling? Im paning to just use a block of aluminium as a heat sinc without the fan, since there would be no air flow inside its casing.
This is supposed to be a 10 minutes unit. from the experience i can say It heats very quickly, the breakout point get red hot within 10s of second and the magnifying coil will also get very hot. Its former is made of porcelain like material which is heat resistant. Even the main coil on the device get also hot. The mosfet and heat sink get warm but that is with fan ON. You can experiment with large block of aluminum and see how fast it gets hot, based on that you can get a reliable ON period.
@@HVE I guess we can calculate the heat stuff. 48volts and 2amps is 100 watts or 100 joules /second. Lets say 30% of that energy goes into heating the mosfet so we have ≈ 30 jouls a second. Heat capacity of 1kg aluminium is 900 per degree celsius . So every 30 seconds the temperature would rise 1 degree, since we are starting at room temperature 25C and our maximum is 60C that gives us 0.5 times 35 ≈ 17 minutes of runtime. or 5 minutes with a 333g pice of Aluminium. So I guess i would be safe on that side. The breakout point would be mounted on the outside with a pice of ceramic shilding it from the outher coil. The real question is , how do i prevent the outher coil and the coil on the device from overheating ? I see no insulation on them , but i still guess that putting them in contact with aluminium would lead to sparks and electricity flowing into the aluminium ? Sry for all the Questions 😬
@@yaykruser Your calculation is Okay, the wires both have insulation (enameled) and you should not touch them to the aluminum. Coupling between the top coil and another small coil inside the device is very crucial for the device operation.
@@HVE Mine arrived today :) But when i Turn it of I get burned by the screws that hold it together, they seem to get electricity induced or something because it creats a litttle spark ? Is that normal? It also makes a Brrrrrrrr sound that gets quiet if i hold my hand above the device ?
@@yaykruser When it is ON you should not approach your finger to the device. I have tried mine an i did not get burned from the holding screws while it was ON. Try to position the external coil near the main device not very far from it. I assume the Brrrr sound changes because you change the stray capacitance by approaching your hands near the device. maybe play with the two coils a bit (the ones that are on the device). Probably they are moved a bit while shipping, or maybe change the surrounding of the device (to change the stray capacitance).
That power supply really loves the RF current and interference lol. Good video btw. First one I've seen tearing down the China HFSSTC.
Really cool! And great that you found time to make this video amidst your busy schedule, thanks for the info :)
A very good presentation. Thank you for sharing.
10:57 can we simulate it with any software??
Very informative video sir..
The smallest coil isn't the secondary coil, it's an inductor
Yeah was about to say! That inductor limits the current draw(impedence) also SUPPOSED TO block noise/AC spikes back to the supply. Tho it looks like it may unintentionally act as a tank circuit(in parallel with capacitor)...which is not ideal/ Will create noise
The resonance is~ 15 MHz ?
Are you going to make the video with the tuning and the ZVS modification?
A design by myself will be shown on a video. But not very soon because life is busy these days.
@@HVEHey, after one year I‘d like to reiterate the question myself. Very interested in the calculations for approximating ZVS in resonant circuits. Especially what values chokes should have to achieve ZVS say in baxandall oscillators
Thanks for this nice video... waiting for your video explanation on function and impact of each component... I want to try once....
thanks and can you measure the secondary length?
Hi what was the primary and inductor diameter??
Isn't part of the interference problem that the RF ground goes through your power supply?
Great video outstanding video thankyou, very detailed, well explained, awesome, just wondered I've noticed enough times electronics experimenters with coughs, do you think there is any aspect of electronics experimenting has any harmful health effects?
Nice!
Salam
I built a HFSSTC . When the oscillation starts the fan works very slow or even stops completely. What can I do to solve this ?
Salam hamino ba hamin schematic?? Abad primary va un selefe chie?
Without improvement as putting bigger sink - heat, replace resistor 220 with double power and the same resistance 100ome, it is almost designed not for longer then 30 - 60 seconds. There is not much to improve. Do not put it in plexiglass cage. It will aggravate already poor cooling system and you will pay extra money. The vertical design of that device also aggravates cooling system. Do not try drill a hole in the porcelain on which is winded coil it will ruin your drill bit. Keep it away from any electronics , in my case electronic clock on a wall was reset each time I turned generator on. Every main component gets overheated very quickly. It is better to design and build own generator without overheating problems than try to fix this one. The operating frequency should be between 10 - 30 MHz.
haha nice I bought the same one sadly mine shorted the SECOND I plugged it in
Nice explain but can u Mack same use normal components becose i really won't to mack
Can you make a plasma arc speaker
Yes, but it is not currently in the priority list. It will come in the future
How long can It run without overheating?
I wanna build one that is battery powered just like an electric lighter.
What parts would need cooling?
Im paning to just use a block of aluminium as a heat sinc without the fan, since there would be no air flow inside its casing.
This is supposed to be a 10 minutes unit. from the experience i can say It heats very quickly, the breakout point get red hot within 10s of second and the magnifying coil will also get very hot. Its former is made of porcelain like material which is heat resistant. Even the main coil on the device get also hot. The mosfet and heat sink get warm but that is with fan ON. You can experiment with large block of aluminum and see how fast it gets hot, based on that you can get a reliable ON period.
@@HVE I guess we can calculate the heat stuff.
48volts and 2amps is 100 watts or 100 joules /second.
Lets say 30% of that energy goes into heating the mosfet so we have ≈ 30 jouls a second.
Heat capacity of 1kg aluminium is 900 per degree celsius .
So every 30 seconds the temperature would rise 1 degree, since we are starting at room temperature 25C and our maximum is 60C that gives us 0.5 times 35 ≈
17 minutes of runtime.
or 5 minutes with a 333g pice of Aluminium.
So I guess i would be safe on that side.
The breakout point would be mounted on the outside with a pice of ceramic shilding it from the outher coil.
The real question is , how do i prevent the outher coil and the coil on the device from overheating ?
I see no insulation on them , but i still guess that putting them in contact with aluminium would lead to sparks and electricity flowing into the aluminium ?
Sry for all the Questions 😬
@@yaykruser Your calculation is Okay, the wires both have insulation (enameled) and you should not touch them to the aluminum. Coupling between the top coil and another small coil inside the device is very crucial for the device operation.
@@HVE Mine arrived today :)
But when i Turn it of I get burned by the screws that hold it together, they seem to get electricity induced or something because it creats a litttle spark ?
Is that normal?
It also makes a Brrrrrrrr sound that gets quiet if i hold my hand above the device ?
@@yaykruser When it is ON you should not approach your finger to the device. I have tried mine an i did not get burned from the holding screws while it was ON. Try to position the external coil near the main device not very far from it. I assume the Brrrr sound changes because you change the stray capacitance by approaching your hands near the device. maybe play with the two coils a bit (the ones that are on the device). Probably they are moved a bit while shipping, or maybe change the surrounding of the device (to change the stray capacitance).
First
🙃