I want to support super smart, super talented, super skilled tradesmen and communicators like you in a time where quality is dying. You have helped me tremendously over the last 6 months. Keep 'em coming. People like you make the internet a good place.
That's how he got the money to get his Marshalltown... You get all the thanks in the world then! Don't worry, I guess he doesn't look comments in videos after a month...
It's absolutely unacceptable this guy didn't even acknowledge a $50 super comment. I know personally that he received a notification for this in his creator dashboard ... Really disrespectful.
I used vinyl for my basement project in the old house. I think I did it because of cost and a deep desire not to lacerate my hands on those wicked sharp metal beads. For the most part, I was happy with how it performed. In my garage, I did the paper backed metal. Learned how from some guy in Vancouver. :)
I hired a guy to mud and tape a whole house for me, years ago and he installed vinyl corner the same way but took it a step further. He added another coat of spray adhesive and mesh tape to bridge the lip of vinyl to drywall. Those corners seemed rock solid.
I remodeled my bathroom maybe 7-8 years ago and used galvanized corner bead on the bathroom shower window, now many years later the corner bead has rusted and is bleeding thru and now needs repair, Just a thought and possibly a good use for vinyl corner bead.
I have never disagreed with him until now. My vinyl bead is going on 15 years with no issues. The steel on the other hand, has rusted in spots and is impossible to repair dents. Vinyl simply doesn't dent or rust. I have NEVER seen the issues he has shown when doing vinyl. I have also never stapled it in place. If you're a contractor wanting to knock things out fast, it "may" be a better idea but longevity it will not have.
@@richardleslie410 I have the same issue. I bought vinyl corner bead because the steel bead in my bathroom pre-remodel was rusty and coming apart next to the tub. It didn't make sense to me to replace it with the same stuff. Even the paper stuff turned me off because it's still steel in the middle.
The metal corner beads on the outside of my shower nook were all rusted, so I'm replacing with vinyl. I wouldn't recommend metal in a potentially wet spot unless its aluminum.
Thank you for your content, Ben! As a homeowner, I just picked up some Trim-Tex products a few weeks back to use in my garage, interestingly enough. Appreciated your insight here and I learned a few tips along the way!
I've installed vinyl using the spray adhesive. Spray the drywall and the bead and install immediately while glue is wet. Position bead as required by sliding it around and then use staple gun to hold in place. Works well that way.
I was just talking with a friend about you and corner bead yesterday. You and I are in sync like peanut butter and jelly! I like the facial hair as well.
Hello Ben ,I am a Dyier here in North Toronto ,really been getting into your videos , learning much,thank you so much for posting and help making me a better dyi guy
The advantage of vinyl bead (and the only time I use it), it has a more rounded corner so if your trying to match existing lath and plaster corners it matches and looks great.
I followed your videos and did the paper metal cornerbeads that get buried into the mud and that seemed pretty straight forward. I think i will stick with those.
I used to use vinyl Bead all the time, has more fill than paper, and the flange is also wider which is great for bad boarding and renovations. I found that using the glue was a waste of time, just apply with taping mud. Run it through my bead mud applicator and slap it on. As I said has more adjustment so don't have to be as fussy. Use taping mud and throw away the glue.
I think you have mentioned this in previous videos, but pressing your drywall knife on its edge up against the wall and the corner bead can make the valley from the bead to the wall smaller. Just make sure it is even on the other side after. You are correct that the contact cement should have a bit of adjust-ability when installing, that is why they recommend staples, although I never use them
Hey Ben, back when I was doing production drywall finishing, that's all we used was vinyl corner bead. Its strong stuff, it doesn't easily break or bend. If installed properly with glue and a few staples if necessary it will never crack. Biggest downside is that it's slow to install. I mostly do renovations, repair and small jobs lately and I use metal corner bead due to its availability. It's very difficult to get the glue for these types of corner bead over the past few years. I'm starting to prefer the old school metal corner beads installed with drywall screws.
Screws work great in wood studs, In fact, when I need to repair corner beads, its nails that have popped and not screws. Nails are a terrible option for drywall and corner bead installation.@@stevensko9153
Started using this stuff 2 yrs ago due to availability issues with metal bead in my area. I always stick it on with hot mud mixed with wood glue. Works great and u get ur first fill coat as u install the bead. So far no cracks on any job I've used this on
We do the same here in Denmark. Plastic/vinyl corners are put up in just drywall mud ( Knauff). There are a few machines out there that you can use coat your corners before setting them up and using a corner bead roller. USG SheetRock and Graco I believe makes them.
We use the glue and 1 1/4” staples anywhere it lifts off and where beads connect. Thin to win with the glue, but application to wall and bead is important. Also, you need to go heavier on moisture board with the glue. And we coat with hot mud (just twice), but we add glue to the mix. With pre-mix you do need three coats. Literally never had a problem; whereas with paper faced bead the sanding can rough up the paper nose. But as you said, you don’t get much adjustment once you put it on. We put it on right away.
The vinyl corner bead pulled away recently from the wallboard in several areas of my house which was built about 15 years ago. There were no mechanical fasteners in the corner bead. I doubt glue was used either. I used 1-1/4” staples to reattach the bead and am confident that it won’t pull away again.
I used the vinyl on windows one time after having always used metal, or metal corner tape. I did not glue or staple. Put it on over a thin bed of mud, and then the first bed over it immediately. Loved the fact that I didn't have to deal with the distortion that inevitably accompanied the nailing of metal. After the job was complete I decided that I liked it much more than the metal. Don't recommend using thin mud on the application, or the first bed. You expressed concern as to whether or not there would be an issue with adhesion. Don't forget sir, mud will stick to GLASS till the cows come home.
I only use it in specialty corners, or those with no nailer. What I do, Is carry a short piece in my pounce and mark where I want the bead to be, spray both sides at once, & put on just when it tacks so I can push the bead to my marker lines. The only time I use staples is on arches, if it is having a hard time laying flat. For high traffic areas, I reinforce the sides with tape, before bedding it with one coat of quickset. You can get away with two coats if you tape it first (which is actually a third coat), or if you use thick mud for the bed coat (less water = less shrinkage).
When I did my basement during the pandemic, I did all vinyl because the wood that was being produced was terrible and figured nailing into wood that was inevitably going to shift would cause more cracking. The vinyl was easy to install if you aren't comfortable with other methods, I did 3 coats, no issues 1.5 years later
Hi Ben, I believe that all staples for construction are divergent, look at the tips of the staples that go in a hand stapler, the points are all cut off to the outside edge and that’s what makes them veer into the surface in opposite directions.
I'm trying this on the weekend. I'm doing vinyl corner bead on two end walls that are cabinet height. Will be watching this again before giving it a shot.
way I was shown...and have not had any problem with.... slather the corner with mud first, squish the corner bead into the mud. tack it in with a nail every 12 inches or so on both sides to keep it in place. mud over it an appropriate number of times as you usually would. (good bit of dry time but great contact between the drywall and mud and cornerbead and all the little holes).
Great video! I totally understand your perspective as a professional, and completely disagree with your stances as someone who has done a lot of drywall work and repairs, but only in places where I or people I know live. You can always tell when steel bead was used because there are hairline cracks all along the seams of every corner in the building, big ugly dents from when people looked at it the wrong way, but at least it was easy to install. Vinyl corner is way stronger, but does require a lot more time to get looking good initially. I have always done mud set with a heavy air dry mud first coat filler, This usually requires three coats but holds up to abuse long term. ( don’t listen to those people who say you need to Staples, here in Florida using staples means in a couple of years you will see rust staining coming through the paint, they arent needed for a strong corner) Paper tape is probably the best of the three, but if you arent experienced it is very hard to get a clean non-wavy corner using it. Cheers!
Trim Tex Mud Set beads might be one of the best corner beads ever invented. Totally different than glued on vinyl. They are hard to find around here so I never use them.
I just used vinyl corner bead for the first time, and decided to use staples. The super 77 didn't adhere in every spot somehow, so I added more staples. My staples started rusting before the mud was dry!
I'm not a fan of vinyl either the only time I ever used them was in a big commercial job where walls were 30 ft High it allowed me to spray on vinyl corners and coat them all in one day but I use a 12 inch curved trowel for the first coat and a 13-in straight trowel for the final coat but because it is commercial space who cares about three coats correct but I absolutely agree with you paper Corners are the best for a house the only way I will ever use metal is if it's an older project that already has metal installed in the house other than that paper all the way I use my compound tube with my mud applicator and it fills the corner even if the drywall is cut short I put them on by hand and wipe them down same thing curve for the first coat and flat trowel for the second I do not like using knives for Corner beads because it leaves them to Hollow I only use knives for wiping tape or quick patch repairs great video Ben
The staples I’ve used are long enough to secure themselves into the frame. I’ve always used both staples and contact cement. Metal beads tend to be a tad easier to straighten a corner. Vinyl is cheaper, quicker and easier. Also, the holes on the corner is what holds the mud irregardless of how slippery the surface is.
I’ve used variety of Trim Tex for years , my first coat is 6””knife and Confill. Trim tex is far superior to any metal by far. Zero hollows , zero furred edge of paper from tradesmen dragging carpet around , withstand direct hit and no dent . I know a taper puts his on with no glue, 11/2” staples with air tools , looks good
I used vinyl on my kitchen passthru window since it wouldn't be at risk for any wear and tear. I used staples to hold it on but secured with some 1" screws, didn't think to try adhesive, did 3 coats, turned out great and has held up for a few years now
I had to use vinyl corner bead in an area that the previous metal bead had rusted something awful. This was near 3 entrance doors where water from snow and delivery carts had destroyed the drywall from the moisture and impact damage. I replaced all the drywall with DenShield and used mortar instead of drywall compound to fill in the voids so that it would be water resistant. So far it has held up for 3 years with no sign of defects or damage.
The rust issue can be important consideration regarding metal corners is wet situations. I had to repair lower part of partition wall in a bathroom that had rusted out the old corner bead (and some old school chicken wire for plastering). I used vinyl bead so rust would never again be an issue. It was a patch job, so 3 plus passes with mud to get it looking good.
I've always used mud in the corner and place the vynal bead in the mud allowing it to ooze out of the holes which then mudding over will hold with out any problem since the holes the mud oozed out of allows it to hold well with out any issues.
I’ll use paper faced corner bead, like you said Ben it’s worth it for the ease of adjustment. And if you don’t have a ton of corners you can slap that first fill coat right then and there!
So I just used L-profile vinyl corner bead in my dad's garage. I got the vinyl corner bead because I read good stuff about it, and it was cheap. I used super 77 since I already had some and I love the stuff, but I did something wrong because parts of it were not sticking. So I grabbed my dad's antique electric stapler that already had diverging staples loaded in it, and stapled it all in. The staples were bleeding rust through the first coat of mud before it even dried! They continued to rust all the way through the final coat.
I highly enjoy your shows, which have been very helpful to me. Without knowing much about the current subject matter, it struck me that the staples may not be strictly for direct holding against horizontal stress, because contact cement and mud help with that. However because the staples are on a corner, the staples at 90 degrees around the corners, should provide support to adjacent corner stress, if that makes sense. So pulling from one side should be supported from staples around the corner at 90 degree offset. Just an out-of-the-box thought.
Indeed, the application of standard staples can significantly enhance the structural integrity of the bead installations. The TH-camr's observation regarding the ineffectiveness of staples when subjected to tensile forces perpendicular to the plane of the wall (i.e., in a normal direction) holds validity. However, this analysis overlooks the critical role of staples in forming a quasi-truss system. By establishing orthogonal connections, the staples effectively generate a series of right-angled, intersecting beams. This configuration optimizes the distribution of both tensile and compressive forces, thereby offering substantial reinforcement for the attachment of the bead to the wall's surface. From an architectural and structural engineering perspective, the utilization of staples for affixing vinyl beads to a wall surface is highly advisable, given their contribution to the overall load-bearing capacity and stability of the installation.
Thanks for the great video. Just made a sliding door for a walk in wardrobe with integrated TV and soundbar. I think I will go with the vinyl corner. That way if it gets scuffed with the walls being white it wont show though so much and paper is just not strong enough.
I like seeing the close ups, I'd like to see more of that in the videos. It helps to see what is "good enough" texture at each step. It's hard to see what you're seeing on a white wall when the camera is further away.
I spray the glue on the inside of the vinyl corner beads instead of wall. I also use staples to hold them in place. You need to push hard against the bead so the staple doesn't stay above it and stick out when mudding.
I haven’t messed with one of these, but I would spray the bead only so mud can still bond directly to the drywall paper through the holes in later steps.
If your concerned about the vinyl's smooth finish holding the mud then give another quick spray of adhesive to the outside once it's placed. Now the vinyl is textured.
Except for the nails rusting probably metal I prefer for outside corners. I don't use paper for outside corners but am not a pro. Did stay at a Holiday Inn last night though. And I like the sound the knife makes when smoothing metal corners
I always tape coat and corner bead with sheetroc 45 eliminates the shrinkage issue, I found gluing on metal bead with sheetroc 45 works really well also.
I'm a semi pro. One client bought this and it was no problem but I think it's for commercial and heavy traffic residential rooms where furniture will be moved often. It's fast in that you don't need carpentry tools and work.
Have you used composite corner bead very much if so what do you think of it? I mainly use paper faced but I tried it out for the first time recently and I was pretty pleased. I appreciate how easy it is to cut and set with just drywall mud like paper faced
I used the Trim Tek vinyl shower kit bead recently and here are my observations. The spray adhesive process is very messy. You need to use your fingers to press the bead in place, your fingers get sticky then every thing you touch sticks to your fingers, including the spray can and nozzle. The staples (if you use them) stick out too far which makes 3 coats absolutely necessary to cover along with the perforations in the strip itself. I opted for the kit because I am not good at finishing drywall and wanted to limited the amount of cutting, fitting, taping and finishing, but I'm not convinced that using the kit was any easier.
I am an occasional drywaller who generally enjoys the finishing and have always used the metal bead. On a project I have been putting off, I bought vinyl. I don't remember why, maybe it was cheaper, maybe the big box store was out of metal or all the metal they had was bent and kinked. Anyways, I had planned to nail it the same way I have always done with my metal as it looks like a plastic substitute for the metal. I never knew that one was expected to put it up with adhesive. Now I will have to give this some thought. I am still thinking I will try nailing it like I always have.
Here in Denmark. We put the vinyl corners up in drywall mud ( Knauff), no problems with it not sticking to the drywall. I believe that it's USG sheetrock that has a paper face bead hoppe, which can be used to coat corners prior to putting up the corners. Graco im guessing also have a machine which coats mud on vinyl/metal corners.
It probably doesn't happen too often in Vancouver, but in Florida I run across a lot of rusted bead around windows. That's where vinyl bead shines. I use finish staples with a pneumatic gun, they shoot right through sometimes, so you have to adjust as you go. But, isnt that life in general?
I only use it to patch where the original is vinyl. The other place I'll sometimes use it is around a tub or shower to avoid rust bleeding through. Paper faced metal seems to eliminate that, but if I'm worried the hassle of vinyl is worth it. The staples only hold it to the drywall until the glue sets. I only staple if I'm having trouble getting it to lay flat.
I have worked with guys who add paper tape on first coat after filling holes with mud. I like the vinyl myself but definitely know more installers who use mud on corners
My wife and I are doing almost all of the work in our house, except for the majority of the drywall. I asked them to use vinyl/plastic corner bead as I think its a better product but they declined as they emphatically said that metal was better. Personally I think vinyl is better if you know how to install it, but I understand that the crew (extreme construction and drywall labor shortages in my area) likely wasn’t familiar with it.
@@sawdustcrypto3987 Its harder to install but is much more resistant to minor impacts, whereas metal easily dents. So when you have little kids blasting around you will often see corner dents with metal.
Using crown staples to attach these, or metal corners, isn’t about stapling them to the drywall but to the framing underneath; all corners by their nature should have wood or metal framing behind both sides. Used to use 1 1/2” crown staples with metal corners as they were faster than either nails or screws. Personally I prefer the metal reinforced paper corners as I’ve gotten the best results with them and thing they look the cleanest and best; they also hold up as well as metal corners but tend to keep the mud attached better after impacts whereas the metal corners just tend to throw compound off when they’re struck.
I was going to say the same thing about the staples. I agree about paper covered corners and if you're doing bullnose corners and any kind of knock texture it's the best option because the mud sticks better on the paper and it will be ready to knock down at the same time the rest is. On bare metal it take a lot longer to dry. So to get the best results I have to sand it down after it's dry
@@chichidouglas5078: Metal corners were always a go to in apartments and offices as they could survive more abuse but we’d always coat them with either a setting joint compound with adhesive or a cemented product with a bonding agent as it just held up better to bumps and dings.
I watch people all the time put up plastic or metal bead and don't mess it. It is a extra step but I always use mes half on the bead and half on the wall when using bead like this. It helps prevent that straight line crack and also help mud bond to the metal or plastic bead.
Vinyl is by far the easiest to find in my area, and has been what I’ve used for years. When I was taught to install, I was told to do it with cup head drywall nails. I’ve never been told about using glue
👋👋👋 that’s the only bead I use . The staples actually hold It very well, and in place once that mud is over it and dry that bead ain’t going no where. They are better than metal ones because when you hit a metal corner it will dent and you pretty much have to cut it out to repair it right . Those will not dent , if anything the mud might chip out and you just fill it back in where it chipped . If I’m working with quick set I’ll even throw some mesh over the end of the bead where it meats the wall . But when working with all purpose we install those with staples in all our new construction homes even high end ones . We run two coats . If properly filled on the first coat . Yes the first coat sucks in and shows all the holes but we slightly over fill them . Second coat fills in perfect
I should probably practice patience & watch on before commenting... but I've had to use the vinyl corner-bead in a pinch & I scuffed it up with some 120 before installing & was shocked at how well med stuck to it! Okay, I'll watch on now & you'll probably mention that scuffing it up is a good idea in: 3....2....1......
I haven't watched this video yet but man I did vinyl in my remodel for all of the corners except for two I did in metal. My local store ran out...metal was SO much easier. I suck at drywall and the metal ones turned out like someone else did it.
If you get rusting stell corner beads, then they are invaluable. Any moisture in the wall or your house can cause the steel ones to rust. These beads are genuinely invaluable. I wish everyone used them exclusively.
If your worried about intermittent moisture causing rust (such as a garage, basement, bathroom or shower above the tile bed) You can prime steel corner bead with Bin primer before you install it. It will take many many years to rust and many more for that rust to show through the surface finish. But if you have an environment/building envelope that is often/permanently moist/damp/wet you need to either fix/mitigate the moisture issue or you shouldn't be using drywall.... Even "Mosture resistant" drywall will fail rapidly in damp/wet environments that are damp/wet enough to rust steel corner bead. The drywall and paper tape (god forbid premix mud) will deteriorate LONG before the rust showed through. If your houses wall cavities are damp enough to rust steel corner bead you need to figure out why and fix it, b/c its doing A LOT more that just damaging your corner bead.
@@grumpycat5991 Thanks. I'm a big fan of yours, love your YT channel. I live in a 100 year old house in the UK and we get a lot of salts penetrating through, so they really accelerate any rusting. In the UK it is quite normal to have damp walls in properties that old, so many of us go for breathable walls, which invariably allow the salts to pass into the plaster and accelerate any rusting potential. I have got some BIN, but I think the vinyl beads are a fantastic idea and a brilliant solution to my problems.
@@SC-hk6ui Fair enough, I lived in a 1800's farm house near the ocean that had a similar moisture situation, (complete with original seaweed "insulation" in the exterior walls). I "re-plastered" some of walls using hot mud over cement board instead of going with drywall b/c the former owner remodeled the kitchen in the 70s-80 and the drywall on the exterior walls basically disintegrated o I feel you pain.
I"m a big fan. I've watched most of your videos, but you couldn't tell by looking at my home projects. Can you screw or nail the vinyl corner bead on like the metal bead? Out of ignorance, I did use some drywall screws on the vinyl and my big mistake was they were so tight that it warped the bead, which wasn't apparent until I was mudding them. Another mistake I made was pushing the bead onto the corner too hard, and it splayed it out wider than the rounded bead itself. Thanks for the video!
I know the staples are stupid but it’s about the staples on both sides of the bead that make it effective they say. Kinda like the staples you were talking about it’s kinda the same cause the staples across from each other are going in on opposing angles
My favorite is the corner bead that's all one piece of solid paper with all the blue measurement linea in it. They are more expensive, but ive never had a call back... and I dont usually do largw drywall jobs where i need to buy a lot of them.
DIY-er here...I didn't use spray adhesive or staples, just pressed it in with my mud (which was a little less runny). Seemed to work OK but I know what you mean about needing multiple coats to hide the dimples.
I usually just mud it on. Run it through a hopper. What I don't like about it unless you use hot mud is the shrinkage. It usually requires three coats.
As a lifetime drywall guy, I was hoping you were gonna show how imoacts affected both vynil and metal. I exclusively use mud on reinforced paper faced beads myself. The hopper and rollers makes installation a breeze. In a pinch or last resort I prefer metal over vynil all day.. Availability is surely based on profits.
this is the first time i've seen a side by side comparison of vinyl vs metal beads. i have to say, the metal looks WAY more professional (not to mention that it makes for a stronger corner)
I tried this stuff before watching this video. I dont know much about mudding but i always use your videos to learn. I put the corner beads on with the mud and as far as I know it hold great. Can you think of anything that I might’ve messed up by doing it this way? Id really appreciate anyone’s input
Benefit of the vinyl is if it gets banged up and the mud chips off it’s white underneath and won’t stick out as much on a white wall vs the bare steel showing.
Hate the stuff, always have problems, you have to glue it and staple to even have a chance, staples in drywall....jeeez! Prefer the full metal or the paper-metal ones. Even the pro's i've seen use mesh tape over it which seems counter intuitive. I've even used normal contact cement not a spray adhesive without much success.
You could use staples that would also go into the wood, and being that its a corner bead there should always be a stud behind it right? Seems better than only relying on contact cement
That’s what I was thinking, a 1/4” x 1-1/4” narrow crown stapler. I don’t do drywall professionally but when I need to build or repair I like the paper faced metal No-Coat corner beads the best. The only benefit I see in a plastic corner bead is it’s less likely to get damaged at the store or in shipping to the job site then the cheap perforated metal beads.
@@Neenjaboy I really like the No-Coat corners because I’m able to get the corners finished faster with my level of skill by not needing to apply so many coats over many days. I just want to get paint on the walls and get the room back in service as fast as possible. For the little extra cost it saves a lot of valuable time.
I like the steel with paper corners best from an ease of installation standpoint. I think the benefit to vinyl is cost. They are half as much as the metal/paper. I haven't tried the flex metal tape yet, but that might be the best all-around.
I've always thought that people using cost as an argument to use vinyl or even regular steel bead over paper metal was silly. Three coats costs more than two. Not only that but the amount extra per job to use paperfaced beads is so little the argument for vinyl being cheaper just doesn't hold water. Buuuuuut that being said some folks just see the price tag but not the big picture. I'm not talking about you by the way so this reply isn't intended to be personal.
@@vancouvercarpenter That's a good point. It's easy to see the upfront cost when buying the corner bead and prefer to go the cheaper route, but the total cost should be considered. Metal with paper seems to be the quickest way to go and time is money.
The key piece here is that you need glue and technically you need a specialty staples to "install it according the the mfg.'s instructions" which is the reason I think they were pushing it to begin with... It sells their proprietary glue and staples b/c the bead itself is "cheaper" then steel.
Homeowner and newbie here. I'm doing my first vinyl corner bead right now. Should I add a layer of mud on top of bead, or leave it uncovered and just prime/paint. My bullnose bead would look weird if not mudded and textured to match the wall. Ben love the channel!!
Oh man I had an 1.5 inch wide bulkead to corner in the basement. Used to conceal closet door sliders. Metal and paper beads I already had were too wide and overlapped the door sliders. This could've worked. I ended up using just tape because it's overhead and it looks good but it wasn't "fun" to do an outside corner with tape. First and last time.
You can use hot mud an paper tape to make these type of no bead corners... It takes may more time then corner bead but it works and is pretty durable (esp. overhead) Take a piece piece of that thin cardboard they sell to protect floors (Like rhino board) and masking tape it to one side of the corner to form it (basically making the corner a Tee) and pack hot mud against it on the opposing side. Wait for the mud to kick off and remove the form. Put the cardboard form on the other side of the corner (making another Tee) and pack it with hot mud. Once the hot mud kicks off remove the form and damp sponge the corner to the profile you want or just wait for it to dry and sand it (damp sponge is way easier but you need to get the timing right or you will ruin the corner/round it over). Then just mud and tape each side of the corner with paper tape and hot or premix mud forming another "Tee" with with the paper tape (one side of the tape 1/4" proud forming the top of the tee) when the mud dries run your knife along the edge of the corner to trim off the proud part of the paper Tee (quick sand if needed) and apply your 2nd coat of mud to float out the corner/cover the tape edges. if you need to give the corner some more "structure" before the mud, AKA the edge of the drywall is really badly damaged has lots of voids and/or is poorly cut/abutted you can use a bead of spray foam against the cardboard form to build out the corner before the 1st step and just trim the foam (with a very sharp razor blade) once it cures to form a "square-ish" corner than pack the foam with hot mud while making the paper "tee" Once you get good at this you can dispense with the cardboard form and do the prefilling and taping step together by just using hot mud and paper tape to fill the corner and form the tee but I find that using the form make the corners is straighter faster and more consistent.
What are your thoughts on Sure Corner? The paper and metal bead roll? I've used it many times now on damaged walls, inside and outside corners, and half walls. Comes in a roll out of the box.
Depending on the job I use Aqua bead or NoCoat corners. Been using Trim Tex and NoCoat since the 90s. I use NoCoat on all my higher end jobs and Aqua bead on the lower end stuff and use NoCoat as an option. I dont use steel bead and havent since the 90s. Mud doesnt stick to metal same as vinyl. Both when hit right the mud pucks off. Vinyl and latex beads are just the maintenance free like vinyl siding is to a house. We used vinyl for a while with air and crown staples but thats too time consuming. With a hopper and NoCoat you can install a lot of bead very quickly and get it coated. I still coat it 3 times. Vinyl and latex beads get their heritage from the mobile and modular home industry.
I just had to replace vinyl throughout a house that was built in 2011 by someone else. Two problems, bond between the mud and vinyl failed and the glue failed. Made it easy two pull it off. Metal also seems a bit more resistant to bumping it things as people live in the house.
Question, I'm renovating my house and in the one bathroom there is metal corner bead beside the bathtub/shower that over the years of getting wet has rusted. The rust stain is spreading out into the wall some and the mud and paint has fallen off at one small spot. Is it better to remove the entire metal corner bead and replace with vinyl or could I just cut the rusted part of the metal bead out and replace that section with vinyl bead? Thanks
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I want to support super smart, super talented, super skilled tradesmen and communicators like you in a time where quality is dying. You have helped me tremendously over the last 6 months. Keep 'em coming. People like you make the internet a good place.
Thanks for the support but the guy didn't even see your comment are liked it
@@sakibc1787 ?
@Sakib Choudhury yeah that surprises me
That's how he got the money to get his Marshalltown... You get all the thanks in the world then!
Don't worry, I guess he doesn't look comments in videos after a month...
It's absolutely unacceptable this guy didn't even acknowledge a $50 super comment. I know personally that he received a notification for this in his creator dashboard ...
Really disrespectful.
I used vinyl for my basement project in the old house. I think I did it because of cost and a deep desire not to lacerate my hands on those wicked sharp metal beads. For the most part, I was happy with how it performed. In my garage, I did the paper backed metal. Learned how from some guy in Vancouver. :)
I hired a guy to mud and tape a whole house for me, years ago and he installed vinyl corner the same way but took it a step further. He added another coat of spray adhesive and mesh tape to bridge the lip of vinyl to drywall. Those corners seemed rock solid.
I switched to vinyl, I mud the corner then push vinyl corner bead into it and adjust, no nail screws or staples, came out perfect every time so far.
Lmao love your humility and the DIYer watching DIYers joke in the intro. You’re a trustable guy for your honesty.
I'll be doing corner bead on my bathroom remodel this weekend. You're channel and expertise have been an absolute life saver for me. Thank you! -Tim
I remodeled my bathroom maybe 7-8 years ago and used galvanized corner bead on the bathroom shower window, now many years later the corner bead has rusted and is bleeding thru and now needs repair, Just a thought and possibly a good use for vinyl corner bead.
I have never disagreed with him until now. My vinyl bead is going on 15 years with no issues. The steel on the other hand, has rusted in spots and is impossible to repair dents. Vinyl simply doesn't dent or rust. I have NEVER seen the issues he has shown when doing vinyl. I have also never stapled it in place.
If you're a contractor wanting to knock things out fast, it "may" be a better idea but longevity it will not have.
@@richardleslie410 I have the same issue. I bought vinyl corner bead because the steel bead in my bathroom pre-remodel was rusty and coming apart next to the tub. It didn't make sense to me to replace it with the same stuff. Even the paper stuff turned me off because it's still steel in the middle.
The metal corner beads on the outside of my shower nook were all rusted, so I'm replacing with vinyl. I wouldn't recommend metal in a potentially wet spot unless its aluminum.
Glad you're stepping out of your comfort zone and showing us new video topics. Thanks for this.
Thank you for your content, Ben!
As a homeowner, I just picked up some Trim-Tex products a few weeks back to use in my garage, interestingly enough. Appreciated your insight here and I learned a few tips along the way!
That's all I used, it works excellent and I don't mess with the staples or adhesive sillyness. Just tape setting mud then coat with finishing mud
I've installed vinyl using the spray adhesive. Spray the drywall and the bead and install immediately while glue is wet. Position bead as required by sliding it around and then use staple gun to hold in place. Works well that way.
I was just talking with a friend about you and corner bead yesterday. You and I are in sync like peanut butter and jelly! I like the facial hair as well.
Hello Ben ,I am a Dyier here in North Toronto ,really been getting into your videos , learning much,thank you so much for posting and help making me a better dyi guy
The advantage of vinyl bead (and the only time I use it), it has a more rounded corner so if your trying to match existing lath and plaster corners it matches and looks great.
Good call👍
@@vancouvercarpenter salt environment calls for vinyl. Dang metal eventually rusts thru the mud and paint.
I followed your videos and did the paper metal cornerbeads that get buried into the mud and that seemed pretty straight forward. I think i will stick with those.
I used to use vinyl Bead all the time, has more fill than paper, and the flange is also wider which is great for bad boarding and renovations. I found that using the glue was a waste of time, just apply with taping mud. Run it through my bead mud applicator and slap it on. As I said has more adjustment so don't have to be as fussy. Use taping mud and throw away the glue.
I think you have mentioned this in previous videos, but pressing your drywall knife on its edge up against the wall and the corner bead can make the valley from the bead to the wall smaller. Just make sure it is even on the other side after. You are correct that the contact cement should have a bit of adjust-ability when installing, that is why they recommend staples, although I never use them
Hey Ben, back when I was doing production drywall finishing, that's all we used was vinyl corner bead. Its strong stuff, it doesn't easily break or bend. If installed properly with glue and a few staples if necessary it will never crack. Biggest downside is that it's slow to install. I mostly do renovations, repair and small jobs lately and I use metal corner bead due to its availability. It's very difficult to get the glue for these types of corner bead over the past few years. I'm starting to prefer the old school metal corner beads installed with drywall screws.
Screws work great in wood studs, In fact, when I need to repair corner beads, its nails that have popped and not screws. Nails are a terrible option for drywall and corner bead installation.@@stevensko9153
Best misnamed channel on TH-cam
Started using this stuff 2 yrs ago due to availability issues with metal bead in my area. I always stick it on with hot mud mixed with wood glue. Works great and u get ur first fill coat as u install the bead. So far no cracks on any job I've used this on
We do the same here in Denmark. Plastic/vinyl corners are put up in just drywall mud ( Knauff). There are a few machines out there that you can use coat your corners before setting them up and using a corner bead roller. USG SheetRock and Graco I believe makes them.
We use the glue and 1 1/4” staples anywhere it lifts off and where beads connect. Thin to win with the glue, but application to wall and bead is important. Also, you need to go heavier on moisture board with the glue. And we coat with hot mud (just twice), but we add glue to the mix. With pre-mix you do need three coats. Literally never had a problem; whereas with paper faced bead the sanding can rough up the paper nose. But as you said, you don’t get much adjustment once you put it on. We put it on right away.
Just like to say thank you for your videos. They gave me the confidence to do some drywall carpentry at home (in Scotland)
ROFL "I watched a few videos and now i'm an expert" -- reads just like my twitter bio :D
The vinyl corner bead pulled away recently from the wallboard in several areas of my house which was built about 15 years ago. There were no mechanical fasteners in the corner bead. I doubt glue was used either. I used 1-1/4” staples to reattach the bead and am confident that it won’t pull away again.
I used the vinyl on windows one time after having always used metal, or metal corner tape. I did not glue or staple. Put it on over a thin bed of mud, and then the first bed over it immediately. Loved the fact that I didn't have to deal with the distortion that inevitably accompanied the nailing of metal. After the job was complete I decided that I liked it much more than the metal. Don't recommend using thin mud on the application, or the first bed. You expressed concern as to whether or not there would be an issue with adhesion. Don't forget sir, mud will stick to GLASS till the cows come home.
Keep up the amazing work Ben you always do and amazing job on your work and your videos. Your videos never disappoint.
I only use it in specialty corners, or those with no nailer. What I do, Is carry a short piece in my pounce and mark where I want the bead to be, spray both sides at once, & put on just when it tacks so I can push the bead to my marker lines. The only time I use staples is on arches, if it is having a hard time laying flat. For high traffic areas, I reinforce the sides with tape, before bedding it with one coat of quickset. You can get away with two coats if you tape it first (which is actually a third coat), or if you use thick mud for the bed coat (less water = less shrinkage).
When I did my basement during the pandemic, I did all vinyl because the wood that was being produced was terrible and figured nailing into wood that was inevitably going to shift would cause more cracking.
The vinyl was easy to install if you aren't comfortable with other methods, I did 3 coats, no issues 1.5 years later
Trying this for the first time. Thanks for the tips.
Hi Ben, I believe that all staples for construction are divergent, look at the tips of the staples that go in a hand stapler, the points are all cut off to the outside edge and that’s what makes them veer into the surface in opposite directions.
I always tape the joint between the corner and the drywall, to minimize future cracks from the corners getting banged up.
I think you’re right Ben .. sometimes ‘no school’ is better than ‘new school’ .. love ya brother and thanks again for everything !
I'm trying this on the weekend. I'm doing vinyl corner bead on two end walls that are cabinet height. Will be watching this again before giving it a shot.
way I was shown...and have not had any problem with.... slather the corner with mud first, squish the corner bead into the mud. tack it in with a nail every 12 inches or so on both sides to keep it in place. mud over it an appropriate number of times as you usually would. (good bit of dry time but great contact between the drywall and mud and cornerbead and all the little holes).
Great video! I totally understand your perspective as a professional, and completely disagree with your stances as someone who has done a lot of drywall work and repairs, but only in places where I or people I know live. You can always tell when steel bead was used because there are hairline cracks all along the seams of every corner in the building, big ugly dents from when people looked at it the wrong way, but at least it was easy to install. Vinyl corner is way stronger, but does require a lot more time to get looking good initially. I have always done mud set with a heavy air dry mud first coat filler, This usually requires three coats but holds up to abuse long term. ( don’t listen to those people who say you need to Staples, here in Florida using staples means in a couple of years you will see rust staining coming through the paint, they arent needed for a strong corner) Paper tape is probably the best of the three, but if you arent experienced it is very hard to get a clean non-wavy corner using it. Cheers!
Trim Tex Mud Set beads might be one of the best corner beads ever invented. Totally different than glued on vinyl. They are hard to find around here so I never use them.
@@vancouvercarpenter Not being able to buy them would put a serious damper on using them I guess
I just used vinyl corner bead for the first time, and decided to use staples. The super 77 didn't adhere in every spot somehow, so I added more staples. My staples started rusting before the mud was dry!
I'm not a fan of vinyl either the only time I ever used them was in a big commercial job where walls were 30 ft High it allowed me to spray on vinyl corners and coat them all in one day but I use a 12 inch curved trowel for the first coat and a 13-in straight trowel for the final coat but because it is commercial space who cares about three coats correct but I absolutely agree with you paper Corners are the best for a house the only way I will ever use metal is if it's an older project that already has metal installed in the house other than that paper all the way I use my compound tube with my mud applicator and it fills the corner even if the drywall is cut short I put them on by hand and wipe them down same thing curve for the first coat and flat trowel for the second I do not like using knives for Corner beads because it leaves them to Hollow I only use knives for wiping tape or quick patch repairs great video Ben
The staples I’ve used are long enough to secure themselves into the frame. I’ve always used both staples and contact cement. Metal beads tend to be a tad easier to straighten a corner. Vinyl is cheaper, quicker and easier.
Also, the holes on the corner is what holds the mud irregardless of how slippery the surface is.
I’ve used variety of Trim Tex for years , my first coat is 6””knife and Confill. Trim tex is far superior to any metal by far. Zero hollows , zero furred edge of paper from tradesmen dragging carpet around , withstand direct hit and no dent . I know a taper puts his on with no glue, 11/2” staples with air tools , looks good
I used vinyl on my kitchen passthru window since it wouldn't be at risk for any wear and tear. I used staples to hold it on but secured with some 1" screws, didn't think to try adhesive, did 3 coats, turned out great and has held up for a few years now
When I used vinyl bead, I nail it in like metal beads. Works great that way.
I had to use vinyl corner bead in an area that the previous metal bead had rusted something awful. This was near 3 entrance doors where water from snow and delivery carts had destroyed the drywall from the moisture and impact damage. I replaced all the drywall with DenShield and used mortar instead of drywall compound to fill in the voids so that it would be water resistant. So far it has held up for 3 years with no sign of defects or damage.
The rust issue can be important consideration regarding metal corners is wet situations. I had to repair lower part of partition wall in a bathroom that had rusted out the old corner bead (and some old school chicken wire for plastering). I used vinyl bead so rust would never again be an issue. It was a patch job, so 3 plus passes with mud to get it looking good.
BEN YOU HAVE TO STAPLE IT! Lol
I've always used mud in the corner and place the vynal bead in the mud allowing it to ooze out of the holes which then mudding over will hold with out any problem since the holes the mud oozed out of allows it to hold well with out any issues.
I’ll use paper faced corner bead, like you said Ben it’s worth it for the ease of adjustment. And if you don’t have a ton of corners you can slap that first fill coat right then and there!
So I just used L-profile vinyl corner bead in my dad's garage. I got the vinyl corner bead because I read good stuff about it, and it was cheap. I used super 77 since I already had some and I love the stuff, but I did something wrong because parts of it were not sticking. So I grabbed my dad's antique electric stapler that already had diverging staples loaded in it, and stapled it all in. The staples were bleeding rust through the first coat of mud before it even dried! They continued to rust all the way through the final coat.
I highly enjoy your shows, which have been very helpful to me. Without knowing much about the current subject matter, it struck me that the staples may not be strictly for direct holding against horizontal stress, because contact cement and mud help with that. However because the staples are on a corner, the staples at 90 degrees around the corners, should provide support to adjacent corner stress, if that makes sense. So pulling from one side should be supported from staples around the corner at 90 degree offset. Just an out-of-the-box thought.
Indeed, the application of standard staples can significantly enhance the structural integrity of the bead installations. The TH-camr's observation regarding the ineffectiveness of staples when subjected to tensile forces perpendicular to the plane of the wall (i.e., in a normal direction) holds validity. However, this analysis overlooks the critical role of staples in forming a quasi-truss system. By establishing orthogonal connections, the staples effectively generate a series of right-angled, intersecting beams. This configuration optimizes the distribution of both tensile and compressive forces, thereby offering substantial reinforcement for the attachment of the bead to the wall's surface. From an architectural and structural engineering perspective, the utilization of staples for affixing vinyl beads to a wall surface is highly advisable, given their contribution to the overall load-bearing capacity and stability of the installation.
@@sina1329 Simple physics, really. 😊
Thanks for the great video. Just made a sliding door for a walk in wardrobe with integrated TV and soundbar. I think I will go with the vinyl corner. That way if it gets scuffed with the walls being white it wont show though so much and paper is just not strong enough.
I like seeing the close ups, I'd like to see more of that in the videos. It helps to see what is "good enough" texture at each step. It's hard to see what you're seeing on a white wall when the camera is further away.
I spray the glue on the inside of the vinyl corner beads instead of wall. I also use staples to hold them in place. You need to push hard against the bead so the staple doesn't stay above it and stick out when mudding.
Sounds like a pain in the ass tbh.
It is. But when you're re-doing every wall in your house, price becomes an issue. And vinyl beads are cheap.
@@ccourt46
Not sure about you
r part of the world but in mine steel corner bead is cheaper than vinyl.
I haven’t messed with one of these, but I would spray the bead only so mud can still bond directly to the drywall paper through the holes in later steps.
If your concerned about the vinyl's smooth finish holding the mud then give another quick spray of adhesive to the outside once it's placed. Now the vinyl is textured.
You are supposed to staple those Ben! Lol
Except for the nails rusting probably metal I prefer for outside corners. I don't use paper for outside corners but am not a pro. Did stay at a Holiday Inn last night though. And I like the sound the knife makes when smoothing metal corners
I always tape coat and corner bead with sheetroc 45 eliminates the shrinkage issue,
I found gluing on metal bead with sheetroc 45 works really well also.
I'm a semi pro. One client bought this and it was no problem but I think it's for commercial and heavy traffic residential rooms where furniture will be moved often. It's fast in that you don't need carpentry tools and work.
Have you used composite corner bead very much if so what do you think of it? I mainly use paper faced but I tried it out for the first time recently and I was pretty pleased. I appreciate how easy it is to cut and set with just drywall mud like paper faced
I used the Trim Tek vinyl shower kit bead recently and here are my observations. The spray adhesive process is very messy. You need to use your fingers to press the bead in place, your fingers get sticky then every thing you touch sticks to your fingers, including the spray can and nozzle. The staples (if you use them) stick out too far which makes 3 coats absolutely necessary to cover along with the perforations in the strip itself. I opted for the kit because I am not good at finishing drywall and wanted to limited the amount of cutting, fitting, taping and finishing, but I'm not convinced that using the kit was any easier.
I am an occasional drywaller who generally enjoys the finishing and have always used the metal bead. On a project I have been putting off, I bought vinyl. I don't remember why, maybe it was cheaper, maybe the big box store was out of metal or all the metal they had was bent and kinked. Anyways, I had planned to nail it the same way I have always done with my metal as it looks like a plastic substitute for the metal. I never knew that one was expected to put it up with adhesive. Now I will have to give this some thought. I am still thinking I will try nailing it like I always have.
Here in Denmark. We put the vinyl corners up in drywall mud ( Knauff), no problems with it not sticking to the drywall. I believe that it's USG sheetrock that has a paper face bead hoppe, which can be used to coat corners prior to putting up the corners. Graco im guessing also have a machine which coats mud on vinyl/metal corners.
Awesome video with great tips. Spray glue sounds dangerous for a DIYer so I think I will just stick to getting mud all over myself lol.
Lol I’ve been using it for years and only spray on the corner bead, never once on the walls 25years never had a call back
It probably doesn't happen too often in Vancouver, but in Florida I run across a lot of rusted bead around windows. That's where vinyl bead shines. I use finish staples with a pneumatic gun, they shoot right through sometimes, so you have to adjust as you go. But, isnt that life in general?
This video makes sense to me as an installer but as an owner I much prefer the durability of the vinyl, especially for high traffic areas
I wonder if the STAPLES recommendation is so you can apply while the glue is still slippery? Use the staples to keep the bead from slipping around...
I think that might be the idea.
I only use it to patch where the original is vinyl. The other place I'll sometimes use it is around a tub or shower to avoid rust bleeding through. Paper faced metal seems to eliminate that, but if I'm worried the hassle of vinyl is worth it.
The staples only hold it to the drywall until the glue sets. I only staple if I'm having trouble getting it to lay flat.
We just got done putting vinyl bead on my back two rooms, and we just nailed it in and did not use any spray.
I have worked with guys who add paper tape on first coat after filling holes with mud. I like the vinyl myself but definitely know more installers who use mud on corners
My wife and I are doing almost all of the work in our house, except for the majority of the drywall. I asked them to use vinyl/plastic corner bead as I think its a better product but they declined as they emphatically said that metal was better. Personally I think vinyl is better if you know how to install it, but I understand that the crew (extreme construction and drywall labor shortages in my area) likely wasn’t familiar with it.
Why do you like the vinyl better? (Or, what don't you like about the metal?)
@@sawdustcrypto3987 Its harder to install but is much more resistant to minor impacts, whereas metal easily dents. So when you have little kids blasting around you will often see corner dents with metal.
LOL, I get it, I could not do anything described in this video any better. Thanks for the content.
Using crown staples to attach these, or metal corners, isn’t about stapling them to the drywall but to the framing underneath; all corners by their nature should have wood or metal framing behind both sides. Used to use 1 1/2” crown staples with metal corners as they were faster than either nails or screws. Personally I prefer the metal reinforced paper corners as I’ve gotten the best results with them and thing they look the cleanest and best; they also hold up as well as metal corners but tend to keep the mud attached better after impacts whereas the metal corners just tend to throw compound off when they’re struck.
I was going to say the same thing about the staples. I agree about paper covered corners and if you're doing bullnose corners and any kind of knock texture it's the best option because the mud sticks better on the paper and it will be ready to knock down at the same time the rest is. On bare metal it take a lot longer to dry. So to get the best results I have to sand it down after it's dry
@@chichidouglas5078: Metal corners were always a go to in apartments and offices as they could survive more abuse but we’d always coat them with either a setting joint compound with adhesive or a cemented product with a bonding agent as it just held up better to bumps and dings.
I watch people all the time put up plastic or metal bead and don't mess it. It is a extra step but I always use mes half on the bead and half on the wall when using bead like this. It helps prevent that straight line crack and also help mud bond to the metal or plastic bead.
Vinyl is by far the easiest to find in my area, and has been what I’ve used for years. When I was taught to install, I was told to do it with cup head drywall nails. I’ve never been told about using glue
Nails will pop over time, I've installed vinyl with drywall screws before but glue is the best method.
👋👋👋 that’s the only bead I use . The staples actually hold
It very well, and in place once that mud is over it and dry that bead ain’t going no where. They are better than metal ones because when you hit a metal corner it will dent and you pretty much have to cut it out to repair it right . Those will not dent , if anything the mud might chip out and you just fill it back in where it chipped . If I’m working with quick set I’ll even throw some mesh over the end of the bead where it meats the wall . But when working with all purpose we install those with staples in all our new construction homes even high end ones . We run two coats . If properly filled on the first coat . Yes the first coat sucks in and shows all the holes but we slightly over fill them . Second coat fills in perfect
I should probably practice patience & watch on before commenting... but I've had to use the vinyl corner-bead in a pinch & I scuffed it up with some 120 before installing & was shocked at how well med stuck to it!
Okay, I'll watch on now & you'll probably mention that scuffing it up is a good idea in: 3....2....1......
I haven't watched this video yet but man I did vinyl in my remodel for all of the corners except for two I did in metal. My local store ran out...metal was SO much easier. I suck at drywall and the metal ones turned out like someone else did it.
You can use mud on both sides of the bead instead of spray or you can use some drywall screws to hold the bead
If you get rusting stell corner beads, then they are invaluable. Any moisture in the wall or your house can cause the steel ones to rust. These beads are genuinely invaluable. I wish everyone used them exclusively.
If your worried about intermittent moisture causing rust (such as a garage, basement, bathroom or shower above the tile bed) You can prime steel corner bead with Bin primer before you install it. It will take many many years to rust and many more for that rust to show through the surface finish. But if you have an environment/building envelope that is often/permanently moist/damp/wet you need to either fix/mitigate the moisture issue or you shouldn't be using drywall.... Even "Mosture resistant" drywall will fail rapidly in damp/wet environments that are damp/wet enough to rust steel corner bead. The drywall and paper tape (god forbid premix mud) will deteriorate LONG before the rust showed through. If your houses wall cavities are damp enough to rust steel corner bead you need to figure out why and fix it, b/c its doing A LOT more that just damaging your corner bead.
@@grumpycat5991 Thanks. I'm a big fan of yours, love your YT channel. I live in a 100 year old house in the UK and we get a lot of salts penetrating through, so they really accelerate any rusting. In the UK it is quite normal to have damp walls in properties that old, so many of us go for breathable walls, which invariably allow the salts to pass into the plaster and accelerate any rusting potential. I have got some BIN, but I think the vinyl beads are a fantastic idea and a brilliant solution to my problems.
@@SC-hk6ui Fair enough, I lived in a 1800's farm house near the ocean that had a similar moisture situation, (complete with original seaweed "insulation" in the exterior walls). I "re-plastered" some of walls using hot mud over cement board instead of going with drywall b/c the former owner remodeled the kitchen in the 70s-80 and the drywall on the exterior walls basically disintegrated o I feel you pain.
I"m a big fan. I've watched most of your videos, but you couldn't tell by looking at my home projects. Can you screw or nail the vinyl corner bead on like the metal bead? Out of ignorance, I did use some drywall screws on the vinyl and my big mistake was they were so tight that it warped the bead, which wasn't apparent until I was mudding them. Another mistake I made was pushing the bead onto the corner too hard, and it splayed it out wider than the rounded bead itself. Thanks for the video!
I know the staples are stupid but it’s about the staples on both sides of the bead that make it effective they say. Kinda like the staples you were talking about it’s kinda the same cause the staples across from each other are going in on opposing angles
My favorite is the corner bead that's all one piece of solid paper with all the blue measurement linea in it. They are more expensive, but ive never had a call back... and I dont usually do largw drywall jobs where i need to buy a lot of them.
DIY-er here...I didn't use spray adhesive or staples, just pressed it in with my mud (which was a little less runny). Seemed to work OK but I know what you mean about needing multiple coats to hide the dimples.
I usually just mud it on. Run it through a hopper. What I don't like about it unless you use hot mud is the shrinkage. It usually requires three coats.
As a lifetime drywall guy, I was hoping you were gonna show how imoacts affected both vynil and metal. I exclusively use mud on reinforced paper faced beads myself. The hopper and rollers makes installation a breeze. In a pinch or last resort I prefer metal over vynil all day.. Availability is surely based on profits.
'Ben's final thoughts' sounds like a new segment
this is the first time i've seen a side by side comparison of vinyl vs metal beads. i have to say, the metal looks WAY more professional (not to mention that it makes for a stronger corner)
I tried this stuff before watching this video. I dont know much about mudding but i always use your videos to learn. I put the corner beads on with the mud and as far as I know it hold great. Can you think of anything that I might’ve messed up by doing it this way? Id really appreciate anyone’s input
Benefit of the vinyl is if it gets banged up and the mud chips off it’s white underneath and won’t stick out as much on a white wall vs the bare steel showing.
Aloha from Hawaii....primo work brah!
Hate the stuff, always have problems, you have to glue it and staple to even have a chance, staples in drywall....jeeez! Prefer the full metal or the paper-metal ones. Even the pro's i've seen use mesh tape over it which seems counter intuitive. I've even used normal contact cement not a spray adhesive without much success.
Hey Ben,
Any recommendations on how to go by finishing the corners? Or will painting over the vinyl beads is an option for finishing the corner?
You could use staples that would also go into the wood, and being that its a corner bead there should always be a stud behind it right? Seems better than only relying on contact cement
That’s what I was thinking, a 1/4” x 1-1/4” narrow crown stapler. I don’t do drywall professionally but when I need to build or repair I like the paper faced metal No-Coat corner beads the best. The only benefit I see in a plastic corner bead is it’s less likely to get damaged at the store or in shipping to the job site then the cheap perforated metal beads.
@@heystarfish100 I haven't tried the paper faced or vinyl beads, I have just never had a real problem with the metal ones I guess
@@Neenjaboy I really like the No-Coat corners because I’m able to get the corners finished faster with my level of skill by not needing to apply so many coats over many days. I just want to get paint on the walls and get the room back in service as fast as possible. For the little extra cost it saves a lot of valuable time.
I like the steel with paper corners best from an ease of installation standpoint. I think the benefit to vinyl is cost. They are half as much as the metal/paper. I haven't tried the flex metal tape yet, but that might be the best all-around.
I've always thought that people using cost as an argument to use vinyl or even regular steel bead over paper metal was silly. Three coats costs more than two. Not only that but the amount extra per job to use paperfaced beads is so little the argument for vinyl being cheaper just doesn't hold water. Buuuuuut that being said some folks just see the price tag but not the big picture. I'm not talking about you by the way so this reply isn't intended to be personal.
@@vancouvercarpenter That's a good point. It's easy to see the upfront cost when buying the corner bead and prefer to go the cheaper route, but the total cost should be considered. Metal with paper seems to be the quickest way to go and time is money.
The key piece here is that you need glue and technically you need a specialty staples to "install it according the the mfg.'s instructions" which is the reason I think they were pushing it to begin with... It sells their proprietary glue and staples b/c the bead itself is "cheaper" then steel.
What about vinyl corner on paper tape?m
Ben's doing the lord's work again. Vinyl bead seems much more labour intensive compared to steel bead.
Staples should help with impact shear where the flanges would shear against the wall when the corner is bumped into
A week ago I did vinyl corner bead in the basement and I used a screws, will see how it goes.
Homeowner and newbie here. I'm doing my first vinyl corner bead right now. Should I add a layer of mud on top of bead, or leave it uncovered and just prime/paint. My bullnose bead would look weird if not mudded and textured to match the wall. Ben love the channel!!
Oh man I had an 1.5 inch wide bulkead to corner in the basement. Used to conceal closet door sliders. Metal and paper beads I already had were too wide and overlapped the door sliders. This could've worked. I ended up using just tape because it's overhead and it looks good but it wasn't "fun" to do an outside corner with tape. First and last time.
You can use hot mud an paper tape to make these type of no bead corners... It takes may more time then corner bead but it works and is pretty durable (esp. overhead)
Take a piece piece of that thin cardboard they sell to protect floors (Like rhino board) and masking tape it to one side of the corner to form it (basically making the corner a Tee) and pack hot mud against it on the opposing side.
Wait for the mud to kick off and remove the form. Put the cardboard form on the other side of the corner (making another Tee) and pack it with hot mud. Once the hot mud kicks off remove the form and damp sponge the corner to the profile you want or just wait for it to dry and sand it (damp sponge is way easier but you need to get the timing right or you will ruin the corner/round it over).
Then just mud and tape each side of the corner with paper tape and hot or premix mud forming another "Tee" with with the paper tape (one side of the tape 1/4" proud forming the top of the tee) when the mud dries run your knife along the edge of the corner to trim off the proud part of the paper Tee (quick sand if needed) and apply your 2nd coat of mud to float out the corner/cover the tape edges.
if you need to give the corner some more "structure" before the mud, AKA the edge of the drywall is really badly damaged has lots of voids and/or is poorly cut/abutted you can use a bead of spray foam against the cardboard form to build out the corner before the 1st step and just trim the foam (with a very sharp razor blade) once it cures to form a "square-ish" corner than pack the foam with hot mud while making the paper "tee"
Once you get good at this you can dispense with the cardboard form and do the prefilling and taping step together by just using hot mud and paper tape to fill the corner and form the tee but I find that using the form make the corners is straighter faster and more consistent.
What are your thoughts on Sure Corner? The paper and metal bead roll? I've used it many times now on damaged walls, inside and outside corners, and half walls. Comes in a roll out of the box.
Depending on the job I use Aqua bead or NoCoat corners. Been using Trim Tex and NoCoat since the 90s. I use NoCoat on all my higher end jobs and Aqua bead on the lower end stuff and use NoCoat as an option. I dont use steel bead and havent since the 90s. Mud doesnt stick to metal same as vinyl. Both when hit right the mud pucks off. Vinyl and latex beads are just the maintenance free like vinyl siding is to a house. We used vinyl for a while with air and crown staples but thats too time consuming. With a hopper and NoCoat you can install a lot of bead very quickly and get it coated. I still coat it 3 times. Vinyl and latex beads get their heritage from the mobile and modular home industry.
1" x 1/4" crown staples hold great in wood framing
I've used plastic corners for 3 years and yes the mud blows off easier but they are WAY easier to repair if they are hit.
I just had to replace vinyl throughout a house that was built in 2011 by someone else. Two problems, bond between the mud and vinyl failed and the glue failed. Made it easy two pull it off. Metal also seems a bit more resistant to bumping it things as people live in the house.
Question, I'm renovating my house and in the one bathroom there is metal corner bead beside the bathtub/shower that over the years of getting wet has rusted. The rust stain is spreading out into the wall some and the mud and paint has fallen off at one small spot. Is it better to remove the entire metal corner bead and replace with vinyl or could I just cut the rusted part of the metal bead out and replace that section with vinyl bead? Thanks
Just in time! Doing paper corner bead tomorrow for the first time.