How to fix your cr10, cr10s, mini tornado, ender, A10 and others jamming or under extruding.

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 พ.ค. 2018
  • How to fix your cloned all metal "E3Dv6" hot end when using PLA.
    BE SURE to check the PTFE tube in the hotend - if it's malformed cut it and re insert it correctly to have no gaps. Also check the PTFE release is working and locking or else replace it.
    This applies to almost all of the E3Dv6 clones.
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ความคิดเห็น • 136

  • The Hot End
    The Hot End  4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Gearbest currently have a flash sale for the Ender-3 It is $189.99 USD!

  • Sam Chaney
    Sam Chaney 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    The spray is only rated to 230C, so make sure you don't print much hotter than that or it might break down and end up clogging the hot end.

  • Michael Lynch
    Michael Lynch 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    One of the major problems with All Metal Hot Ends is over retraction. This is a subject that is rarely discussed. I changed to an all metal hot end of my own design/construction and until I found a fairly obscure article about retraction for the all metal hot end, my printer was almost useless. I was using PETG and running 3.5mm retraction on a PTFE equipped ENDER 3, when I went to the all metal HE, I had to reduce my retraction to about .25 - .30 to stop the thing from jamming. Same filament, same model, same G-Code the only thing that changed was the hot end and the retraction setting. The retraction problem only becomes worse as the extruder temps get higher, since the puddle of hot plastic is larger and the plastic is less viscous and is easier to eventually suck back up the heat break. When I pulled the stuck filament from the heat break, it was clear that this was what was happening. The jammed portion was about 2.5 - 3.0 mm long, almost exactly the difference in the two retraction settings in the slicer. I am going to treat my Hot End with this for an extra layer of security and to make the printer more reliable at high temperatures.

  • The McLaughlins
    The McLaughlins 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    After having HUGE issues printing with my Creality CR-20 (After many successful prints) I discovered the same issue with my printer with massive clogs that I couldn't figure out. In the end this saved my sanity and things are working perfectly again. Thank you so much.

  • Andreas
    Andreas 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    The point of not exceeding certain temperatures in ptfe-lined hotend throats is that ptfe gasses out toxic stuff when it gets too hot. So the only advantage of the spray in a full-metal throat over a ptfe-lined throat is that the hot end doesn't need disassembly. Otherwise, same temperature restrictions apply. Even worse, maybe, because the ptfe in the nozzle will be hotter than in the throat.

  • dot_bob
    dot_bob 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Another dry lubricant that is starting to become popular with 3d printing is Tungsten Disulfide. E3D appears to be experimenting with it on their heatbreaks and nozzles to prevent filament from sticking to them.

  • Rick B
    Rick B 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is such a good idea! I was about to throw away my all metal hotend because it keeps jamming with PLA. This PTFE spray may save my all metal hotend from the garbage can! Hurrah to you! Thank you!

  • John Colvin
    John Colvin 4 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Good to know, thanks John. Have you been using the PTFE long enough to have an idea how long each application lasts before re-applying is needed?

  • john martin
    john martin 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    BTW even some "genuine" all metal hot ends suffer from this problem. If you intend printing material that requires temps. hotter than 230c the spray could melt but would clear the hot end easily and quickly. If you went back to PLA you would have to re-apply.

  • Max Edwards
    Max Edwards 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I've heard that you need to "season" all metal hot ends, especially clones by using a filament oiler. Benefit of using an oiler is that it won't run out and need hot end dismantling.

  • Rick B
    Rick B 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    UPDATE: Nope, I got too excited too soon! My big job got about 90% of the way complete and then the nozzle jammed. It got a lot further than it has gotten before, but I think that the spray gets rubbed off by the filament as it prints large jobs. I ended up ordering an E3D Lite6 nozzle. Hopefully, that genuine nozzle will solve my problems.

  • Andreas K.
    Andreas K. 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I checked various manufacturers of PTFE sprays and some are rated up to 100°C (some 220°F) only. Make sure to check this before you buy!

  • Papa Frank
    Papa Frank 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I'll let you mix my drink any day.

  • Mark Mosley
    Mark Mosley 4 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    One of the major culprits of an all metal hotend clogging is the PTFE tube connection. After time the retraction causes it to loosen. That let's the tube move up and down creating a gap at the top of the heatbreak.

  • Redemptioner1
    Redemptioner1 4 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Just a FYI, PLA will only stick to the inside of an all metal hotend if there is not enough cooling on the heatsink. Fix the cooling issue over the heatsink and you won't need to play around with the hotend.

  • Grim Gearheart
    Grim Gearheart 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    So, should this only be done with aftermarket all-metal hot ends? I still use the stock hot end that came with my CR-10 and I'm dealing with a lot of underextruding and extruder skipping. Should I PTFE spray a stock hot end?

  • Sur ron Zak
    Sur ron Zak 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Or just lower your retractation so the molten PLA does not go above the heat break, never had an issu with this.

  • Carbide
    Carbide 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have been having this problem constantly even changing different hotends. It would start printing well but after a while they start feeding funny and then i would get a part that looked like it it air whip plastic. So now the question is, my kits have both full metal breakers or ptfe lined ones. Which is more likely not to jam?

  • Pareczek
    Pareczek 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Well, I rather combine more ways, how to achieve success printing with all-metal HE. First, insulation! Just wrap your heat block into Kapton tape (or in case of 260+°C temperatures some glass fiber insulation) to reduce heating up of the heat sink by radiation + wrap heat break thread into Teflon tape, it reduces heating of heat break by conduction. Hope this approach will work for my 3d printer.

  • Larry Chambless
    Larry Chambless 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the tip. Great presentation 👍