Thank you for education on making a CROWN on gravel county wide open roadway. Your video are such a great help at understanding the maintenance. Not just for a person wanting to learn grader operations.
Just wanted to thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Last week I got to take out the 140m on public roads. Boss said it looked real good. So you know i'm a happy guy. I'm in the South and we have red sandy base dirt roads so it's a different process. I have to pull up material from the sides to replenish the road. I do two passes then just run it over the middle feathering it out a bit. Our roads get destroyed by rain in a week, so it's a non-stop process. Anyway, thanks again. Hope to see more content.
Thank you for the demonstration and explanation, of how you build the crown in the centre of the road. It's a first for me seeing a road grader articulate . At first I thought I was seeing things. Then I saw how the machine was aligned and it made sense. It must be quite off putting driving in such an un-natural manner. I am a coach driver, driving straight on a nice flat road is what I like. Again thank you for sharing your work with the TH-cam community. Keep up the good work.
3rd wettest spring where I live in Canada and my second year running a grader the roads got so beat to hell it was crazy lol drying up now so they are looking better! Your videos have come in handy a few times already! keep ‘em coming grader man
That’s definitely a challenge to keep roads when you have conditions like that we had that here about 3 years ago was a nightmare trying to keep roads passable glad to hear you have found my videos helpful thanks for watching!
A slope meter is very important. Any spot on a road that’s flat will be pounded out and full of potholes when it rains. Some good advice in this video. I’ve encountered people who think that square blading the material down the centre is the right way🥴. If you want to keep your crown in the road NEVER blade down the centre!
That cat motor grader drives pretty smooth when you’re pushing gravel in the road sounds awesome with the powerful cat diesel power engine 😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
You do a good job with your video work because your set up right. I've been operating since I was 9 years old,I'm 54. I learned you can make yourself look pretty green by trying to hold your phone & video, while trying operate. Lol. Anyway only thing I see a difference in is , that's some nice material. Don't have that "luxury" most of the time here in west Texas. We have material with rocks the size of footballs that don't bust because it's not run through a crusher. So if they're thicker than my fill they wind up on the shoulder, which I hate. You do nice work. God bless!
Great job blading that crown in.i ran a blade for 38 years,in ourneck of the woods here in deep south texas,rain is very minimal,we always worked our roads with little to no moisture,no water truck,so our approach was different,we mainly used caliche gravel which is like river rock,pit run.our blades were old school so we used eye sight and hand feel for our crowns if that make,s any sense toyou,finally made to fine finish operator,big difference,great video for the young buck,s starting out,pay attention and ask the old guys for advice.
When I was a kid, I used to watch and ride with the grader man and anytime he did our road, he would always clean the ditches first. He would say if the ditches are not clean, the water runs on the road and washes the road out.
Nice work man. I've been riding in the Czech Republic with HBM BG 120TA-6 for only 2 years and I like to see work and inspiration for improvement. It's not easy work, but beautiful. Good luck with the next race
I would love to see you on a subdivision job to see how you go about doing boxes, curb and channel and cul-de-sacs. This was a great explanation to by the way.. Hope to catch up again soon mate.
I just started working on a highway department down here in Massachusetts. Eventually, I’ll be training on the grader that we have since I’m the only young guy in the department, everyone’s retiring… the dirt roads up there are better than half of our paved roads down here.😂
Not often you see when operators give details.I dont drive graders but have to work on various machines. It is nice to find someone to explain all the details.If a dirt road has a pothole do you cut to the botom or grade over ?
Your welcome I enjoy sharing my knowledge with others and as far as the pothole goes you have to cut it completely out if you just blade over it will come right back thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
That sounds like a challenge I’m pretty lucky in my area we have nice built up roads and not many trees in the right of way and pretty decent gravel on them thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
Another awesome vid mate!! I have so many questions lol. Just wish I could have you in the cab with me. Would you use the same process of building a crown if you were building a new road from sub grade? Keep the vids coming dude. You truly are a legend. 👍👍👍👍
Glad to hear you like the videos and as far as using same process as this while building a new road yes I’d go about it the same way thanks for watching.
Informative video. More curious to how you have a new M series grader with square cab, steering wheel and old style controls. When did Cat start offering that?
Happy you found it informative this machine is a 2019 cat 140 with the conventional controls cat offers this or the joystick controls in the m series I operate 4 different graders two new cat 150s 1 Deere 772gp and this cat 140 with the conventional controls hope this answers your question thanks for watching!
I would like to say that I appreciate you taking the time to make such good videos that only blade operators can really value. I have a question about leaving a maintenance windrow; doesn't leaving a maintenance windrow create a secondary ditch and thereby hold water on the road surface? Please elaborate....
The vegetation buildup on the outsides of the shoulders can be problematic…it stops the water from shedding and is the direct result of lazy grader operators not wanting to grade the entire road top from ditch to ditch…a little bit isn’t horrible but some roads they leave 4-5 feet of vegetation on top of the road from the edge…it’s annoying!…I’ve seen some operators grade a road in such a rush they had it in 4th or 5th gear and the tractor side of the grader was just bouncing!…terrible job!..how can you grade with any precision in 4th gear??..🤦🏻♂️..anyway I watched you and you are very deliberate in your technique and you have great control over the machine and at just the right speed!…keep your cutting edges straight my friend!..👍
Since in hanjin engineering co.I'm handled 729B model completed all wheel drive,powerful and easy to carry. Volvo canada.i like it machine motor grader.
Happy to hear that and I spend majority of my time in 4th gear if I’m just normal maintenance blading if I’m doing intersections I will do them in 2nd or 3rd thanks for watching!
I’ve know I’ve asked you this before, but we built a private road through our property a few years ago, and I made the mistake of putting 1 and 1/2 inch clean Limestone gravel on the surface instead of the 3/4 inch down to dust like I should have. In your opinion, would I be better off trying to crush my existing gravel with a 6 ton flat compactor or add more of the Limestone 3/4 minus down to dust? Thanks, Bryan.
I’d go with the Michelin snow plus tires for the winter and as far as a good summer tire I really like the Bridgestone tgs2 v style patter tires hope this helps thanks for the question.
Hey mate grader operator in Oz, out of the different layouts in the deers and Caterpillar graders antler rack vs joysticks vs deer controls for eg what do you actually prefer to operate? Cheers mate love the videos 👍🏼!! CAT 12M!!
I really enjoy operating all the machines if I had to pick my favorite I’d go with the cat M with joystick controls and I’d also pick the Deere with the finger tip controls hands down the two nicest machines I get to operate. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
I have my diff lock on all the time while blading that way both tandems are pulling the same and it definitely helps your machine from hoping I don’t like the auto diff because it kicks out while hogging material and machine slides out so I just use the manual button hope this helps thanks for the question.
Thanks glad to hear that and in all honesty really depends on what I’m doing if it’s just basic gravel road maintenance I like the old school levers and steering wheel and if I’m laying down gravel doing dirt work or plowing snow I prefer the joystick controls.
My name is BLADEMAN WE have no farm roads to do. I put my blade in many different things to make grade all by feel . I wish all I have to do is roads .lmfaf.
That’s good everything I do is by feel also in my opinion blading roads is one of the harder things to do because we are doing everything by feel and visual where a blade on a job site has stakes and hubs to go off of I’ve done both running blade in a job site putting streets and pads in is easy work to me.
What about dealing with little to no gravel at all?? I'm brand new at this and there's a lot of sections in my township where if you cut the road at all you hit dirt...and hardly any of the roads are 22ft wide, looking for some advice on how to take care of roads like this.
As far as little to no gravel I’d maintain it the same way I do in the video it will be just dirt not ideal but if that’s what you have to work with and as far as the narrow roads if you can I’d widen them out to 22 feet if you can’t you have to work with what you got hopefully this helps if you got another question ask away thanks for watching.
I’m confused about when you say when you pull in on your left side use your left hand 90% of the time. Does that mean you use your heel side for adjustment or the toe side? I have a bad habit of adjusting both heel and toe while grading. I’m adjusting my heel based off what I feel in seat but then I notice the toe side a little to high or low the so I lower the toe side to fix. I’m adjusting way to much and end up not getting a level surface.
So when I say that pulling in a windrow of material you generally can make small adjustments with just your left blade lift now obviously if you need more crown you might have to adjust your heel and toe both I try to only make very small adjustments when necessary the less you adjust your moldboard the more consistent your road is going to be if that makes sense hopefully this clarifies it for you. Thanks for asking the question and thanks for watching.
No it doesn’t stop any water from getting off the road it’s a light windrow and water will run right through it even if it does hold back a little water the benefits of having a maintenance windrow are greater then the negative in my opinion.
I'm coming in late to this video (1 year mark) but, I have a quick question or 2... I noticed the gravel seems nice and moist; did was this moistened by weather or a truck coming through previously? And, how important is that in this situation? Did you get any rolling done to the finished road after?
This was just natural moisture from a rain we had the night before I unfortunately don’t have a water truck so I use what moisture I have as far as that goes it is nice to have moisture if you can have it in this video I don’t have a packer but I do on my other townships machine and having the packer makes a big difference sealing it up
Just curious..for a simple grading job how come you’re only cutting one side at time? Its not like you’re pulling a ditch or a high shoulder. Wouldn’t it be simpler and fewer passes to cut both sides to the center and then go down the middle and spread your material out down the center of the road and then make two passes..one on each side to put you material back out and you’re done.
The way I do it works best for me I’ve seen guys do it the way you described not saying it wrong but that more passes then what I do plus I like lining up with my center line helps you keep your road straight plus you get a good mix of material if I cut the whole road into one big windrow so that’s just what works for me thanks for the comment and hopefully that gives ya an explanation
What is the width of the travel way? And width of shoulder please. Thanks for your attention to detail. Very nice work. Wish I had crushed rock to work with. Nothing but sand here.
My road width is 22ft and I have around 2ft of grass shoulder and your welcome and I’m very fortunate to have good gravel to work with in my area i know others aren’t so lucky thanks for watching!
You would think that would be a lot when asphalt roads have a 2% crown on them but 4-5% is perfect for a gravel road that is constantly changing with traffic I figure 1/2 inch of crown per foot of road width hope this explains why we put 4-5% on our gravel roads here.
@@graderman140m I graded a lot of road in Alberta and some of the back roads we put some pretty aggressive slope on them to combat ice buildup in the winter…but then some of the new road renewals we did we only put 1.5% on them…and they were gravel roads!..I thought that was way too flat but that’s why the engineers wanted so that’s what they got!..🤷🏻♂️…I found that 3% was a good all round slope for crown…cheers my friend!!
I do use the AWD to heel up the dumped material to equalize it once it’s equalized and in a windrow I shut it off just use my differential lock while I lay it back down
I articulated so that I could get more angle on my moldboard allowing me to pull in the bigger windrow of material also used it to keep my front tires from running on it.
So I've been running a new a m3 but we have an older m, a few h, and even old g that I run for rough work.... I noticed that non of them like to articulate with the diff lock
@@donniebreen3984 I guess I’ve never tried articulating while my differential is locked be extremely hard on the diff I definitely wouldn’t recommend having it on while articulating or turning over 20 degrees and main reason you getting that clunk and bang is your unlocking your differential under pressure it won’t do that while not under pressure.
How long does it take you to do one mile of road like in your video? Couple of hours? Do you compact it after you set the crown? Great video and subscribed.
It’s all of 2 hrs to get the whole process done and yeas once I’m done laying everything down I go back over the whole road with my packer sealing it up glad to hear you liked the video thanks for subscribing and thanks for watching!
You would just have to lay a little more down on each of the final passes I like leaving a small maintenance windrow on the edge that way you always have a little material to work with plus it easier to maintain your crown hope this answers your question thanks for watching!
How come with todays high tech graders my state can’t get rid of washboards. In the 70 s and early 80s there was never a washboard road today it’s on every gravel road.
It the higher hp vehicles and diesels with light back ends and the fact that everyone is in a rush nowadays. You don’t see people just cruising at 60 km per hr. They are going 110 on gravel and hammering the brakes at corners just the give her shit again after they turn.
You got any narrow twisty stuff? Lol. I'm looking at an old galion t500 straight frame to take care of my road. It's always been done with tractors with rakes, I've got it better with a rear blade but it only cuts so much and it's a bitch to hold a grade. The galion has a 12' moldboard and the road is 12-16' wide between the trees or banks, with quite a few curves and some steep hills
I don’t have anything like that in my area to deal with a grader will definitely help but if you have a narrow road and lots of tight turns a straight frame machine is not the best for them conditions in my opinion.
i never ever had all this leveling gear just seat of my ass and when main roads checked all spot on even some corner did not mach they got me to cut corner in to match and line up with rest off the h/way all ways spot on
I generally do everything by feel all the newer graders have crown gauges in them it is nice for a reference but definitely not necessary I find it helpful for newer operators learning the machine and feel for the correct grade.
It’s a light soft maintenance windrow water will simply wash right through it and even if it holds back a little water the pros of having it outweigh the negatives.
We would lose our contracts so fast here if we left a windrow like that on the edge of any of our county roads. In 20 yrs I've never articulated to spread gravel on top of a road. Maybe that's just the difference between Canada and the USA!!
@@redrustyhill2 obviously everyone does things differently I just show the way I maintain my roads in my area in my opinion there’s lots of benefits from a maintenance windrow you don’t think there is and that’s perfectly fine I have no complaints on my roads and leaving a maintenance windrow is the way I do it thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
You have material available for maintenance, pot holes, low spots, etc. Otherwise you have to have gravel delivered. Gotta understand that gravel disintegrates so having it already on site has a lot of benefits for the township.
theres no way its 500 yards a mile that road is way to narrow maybe 200 yards. unless it was a brand new build even then the roads way too small how long have you ran a grader?
Believe me there’s 500 yds a mile on this road I’ve been operating a grader for 16 years now I don’t like using yds but that’s how my gravel supplier does his bid 500 yds is not much gravel on a mile that only about an inch of gravel on that 22 ft road I normally put on 2100 tons a mile that gives me 3 inches of gravel on a 24ft road top.
@@graderman140m Gravel must be pretty damn cheap where you guys live. The Max we will put on is 150 per mile on existing roads The only time we get up around the 400 yd per mile is a brand new roadtop that's a 15 m roadtop (45 feet)
@@Jason-jh9ue our gravel is fairly cheap from the 2 suppliers I have on is 10.00 a ton delivered anywhere in the township and the other is 14 so pretty reasonable in my area we also have lots of pits in our area so that keeps cost down.
@@Jason-jh9ue wow that’s crazy and it always amazes me how different things are other places it really opens your eyes knowing how lucky I am to be able too have the material I do and at the price I get it at others are not so lucky thanks for the discussion and thanks for watching.
Isnt the purpose of a crown is to allow rainwater to drain off the road? Rainwater wont drain off a gravel road, it will seep into the ground betwix the rocks. !
I'm a new operator and try learning the best techniques I can, you do a great job
Thank you for education on making a CROWN on gravel county wide open roadway. Your video are such a great help at understanding the maintenance. Not just for a person wanting to learn grader operations.
Just wanted to thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Last week I got to take out the 140m on public roads. Boss said it looked real good. So you know i'm a happy guy. I'm in the South and we have red sandy base dirt roads so it's a different process. I have to pull up material from the sides to replenish the road. I do two passes then just run it over the middle feathering it out a bit. Our roads get destroyed by rain in a week, so it's a non-stop process.
Anyway, thanks again. Hope to see more content.
Thank you for the demonstration and explanation, of how you build the crown in the centre of the road. It's a first for me seeing a road grader articulate . At first I thought I was seeing things. Then I saw how the machine was aligned and it made sense. It must be quite off putting driving in such an un-natural manner. I am a coach driver, driving straight on a nice flat road is what I like. Again thank you for sharing your work with the TH-cam community. Keep up the good work.
Great job on the video. Well done explanations and camera angles!
Great video once again!!! Thank you for explaining how you go by putting a crown back in your roads!! Keep up the great work!!
3rd wettest spring where I live in Canada and my second year running a grader the roads got so beat to hell it was crazy lol drying up now so they are looking better! Your videos have come in handy a few times already! keep ‘em coming grader man
That’s definitely a challenge to keep roads when you have conditions like that we had that here about 3 years ago was a nightmare trying to keep roads passable glad to hear you have found my videos helpful thanks for watching!
A slope meter is very important. Any spot on a road that’s flat will be pounded out and full of potholes when it rains.
Some good advice in this video. I’ve encountered people who think that square blading the material down the centre is the right way🥴.
If you want to keep your crown in the road NEVER blade down the centre!
Square blading is all my county does. Our roads are terrible.
That cat motor grader drives pretty smooth when you’re pushing gravel in the road sounds awesome with the powerful cat diesel power engine 😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
You do a good job with your video work because your set up right. I've been operating since I was 9 years old,I'm 54. I learned you can make yourself look pretty green by trying to hold your phone & video, while trying operate. Lol. Anyway only thing I see a difference in is , that's some nice material. Don't have that "luxury" most of the time here in west Texas. We have material with rocks the size of footballs that don't bust because it's not run through a crusher. So if they're thicker than my fill they wind up on the shoulder, which I hate. You do nice work. God bless!
Great job blading that crown in.i ran a blade for 38 years,in ourneck of the woods here in deep south texas,rain is very minimal,we always worked our roads with little to no moisture,no water truck,so our approach was different,we mainly used caliche gravel which is like river rock,pit run.our blades were old school so we used eye sight and hand feel for our crowns if that make,s any sense toyou,finally made to fine finish operator,big difference,great video for the young buck,s starting out,pay attention and ask the old guys for advice.
Arturo Saenz, I'm from deep south Texas, and I would like some advice on our county roads if I could get some advice on how to fix them.
When I was a kid, I used to watch and ride with the grader man and anytime he did our road, he would always clean the ditches first. He would say if the ditches are not clean, the water runs on the road and washes the road out.
Top quality advice.. always enjoy learning from this operator 😃
Nice work man. I've been riding in the Czech Republic with HBM BG 120TA-6 for only 2 years and I like to see work and inspiration for improvement. It's not easy work, but beautiful. Good luck with the next race
That undercarriage angle with the gravel getting thrown right to the edge of the shoulder is awesome
I’m happy you liked the different camera angles thanks for watching!
Great video. I wish our county would put this much material on our gravel roads.
thanks i am very lucky to have good material to work with i know other areas are not as lucky.
Great Video, I normally run Hoes, like to learn about grading, your videos are great for technique, thank you
I would love to see you on a subdivision job to see how you go about doing boxes, curb and channel and cul-de-sacs. This was a great explanation to by the way.. Hope to catch up again soon mate.
I’ve always wanted to try my had at that type of work glad I explained it well and yes will have to catch up again soon buddy.
Great job keep the videos comein really in joy them
I just started working on a highway department down here in Massachusetts. Eventually, I’ll be training on the grader that we have since I’m the only young guy in the department, everyone’s retiring… the dirt roads up there are better than half of our paved roads down here.😂
You answered every question I never asked. You should do classes. Good job!
Actually you should do country music.
Sound like Johnny Cash!
awesome video. great tips keep them coming 👍🏻
Great hands on experience Big Daddy, we appreciate the skills !
Not often you see when operators give details.I dont drive graders but have to work on various machines. It is nice to find someone to explain all the details.If a dirt road has a pothole do you cut to the botom or grade over ?
Your welcome I enjoy sharing my knowledge with others and as far as the pothole goes you have to cut it completely out if you just blade over it will come right back thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
So basicaly in most dirt roads you first you cut from the side to the center and after each side you ride over center to the side?
@@graderman140m
Good job, keep it up ! ( from Canada )
I wish my road was that easy. Mine is lined with trees and a mix of dirt and occasional rock after I remove the debris.
That sounds like a challenge I’m pretty lucky in my area we have nice built up roads and not many trees in the right of way and pretty decent gravel on them thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
Another awesome vid mate!! I have so many questions lol. Just wish I could have you in the cab with me. Would you use the same process of building a crown if you were building a new road from sub grade? Keep the vids coming dude. You truly are a legend. 👍👍👍👍
Glad to hear you like the videos and as far as using same process as this while building a new road yes I’d go about it the same way thanks for watching.
Ah, this explains a question I had on another video, good video!
Veja que aula muito boa um grande professor estou seguindo todos os vídeos aqui vai um abraço do seu aluno aqui no Brasil 🇧🇷
I have a cat 12m 3 I run I am watching you and trying new things I am south Louisiana grading a large parking lot for trucks
That’s a very nice machine and hopefully you can pickup a few tricks from my videos thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video!
Marvelous. Thank you.
Great video
Informative video. More curious to how you have a new M series grader with square cab, steering wheel and old style controls. When did Cat start offering that?
Happy you found it informative this machine is a 2019 cat 140 with the conventional controls cat offers this or the joystick controls in the m series I operate 4 different graders two new cat 150s 1 Deere 772gp and this cat 140 with the conventional controls hope this answers your question thanks for watching!
Thanks very much for this video. Great info. New subscriber👍
Thanks for the sub!
Great video
I love it
I would like to say that I appreciate you taking the time to make such good videos that only blade operators can really value. I have a question about leaving a maintenance windrow; doesn't leaving a maintenance windrow create a secondary ditch and thereby hold water on the road surface? Please elaborate....
Sorry..... just read your below replies!
I like this. I am operator
Very informative for a rookie like me lol
The vegetation buildup on the outsides of the shoulders can be problematic…it stops the water from shedding and is the direct result of lazy grader operators not wanting to grade the entire road top from ditch to ditch…a little bit isn’t horrible but some roads they leave 4-5 feet of vegetation on top of the road from the edge…it’s annoying!…I’ve seen some operators grade a road in such a rush they had it in 4th or 5th gear and the tractor side of the grader was just bouncing!…terrible job!..how can you grade with any precision in 4th gear??..🤦🏻♂️..anyway I watched you and you are very deliberate in your technique and you have great control over the machine and at just the right speed!…keep your cutting edges straight my friend!..👍
Since in hanjin engineering co.I'm handled 729B model completed all wheel drive,powerful and easy to carry. Volvo canada.i like it machine motor grader.
I like your work, when grading what gear do you work in the most?
Happy to hear that and I spend majority of my time in 4th gear if I’m just normal maintenance blading if I’m doing intersections I will do them in 2nd or 3rd thanks for watching!
I’ve know I’ve asked you this before, but we built a private road through our property a few years ago, and I made the mistake of putting 1 and 1/2 inch clean Limestone gravel on the surface instead of the 3/4 inch down to dust like I should have. In your opinion, would I be better off trying to crush my existing gravel with a 6 ton flat compactor or add more of the Limestone 3/4 minus down to dust?
Thanks,
Bryan.
I’d haul in 3/4 and cover it up use the big stuff as a base.
Great video! You work in a nice area)) RL
Thanks I appreciate that and I do work in a nice area thanks for watching.
What is your favorite tires for winter and summer? Need one set for both!
I’d go with the Michelin snow plus tires for the winter and as far as a good summer tire I really like the Bridgestone tgs2 v style patter tires hope this helps thanks for the question.
Hey mate grader operator in Oz, out of the different layouts in the deers and Caterpillar graders antler rack vs joysticks vs deer controls for eg what do you actually prefer to operate? Cheers mate love the videos 👍🏼!! CAT 12M!!
I really enjoy operating all the machines if I had to pick my favorite I’d go with the cat M with joystick controls and I’d also pick the Deere with the finger tip controls hands down the two nicest machines I get to operate. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
Is this similar to or considered the 5 pass method?
Do u need to use your diff lock when your already getting max traction or does that help prevent hopping.Is auto diff a good substitute thanks Steve
I have my diff lock on all the time while blading that way both tandems are pulling the same and it definitely helps your machine from hoping I don’t like the auto diff because it kicks out while hogging material and machine slides out so I just use the manual button hope this helps thanks for the question.
That's a very beautiful machine
Yes it suer is I’m very lucky to have great equipment to operate thanks for watching
Another great vid! Which style do you prefer the joysticks or the old school?
Thanks glad to hear that and in all honesty really depends on what I’m doing if it’s just basic gravel road maintenance I like the old school levers and steering wheel and if I’m laying down gravel doing dirt work or plowing snow I prefer the joystick controls.
@@graderman140m They both do the same work.. i think our M has way more power than the older H.
@@aaronrexius3204 yes they definitely do and yes the M series have much more power and weight to them.
My name is BLADEMAN WE have no farm roads to do. I put my blade in many different things to make grade all by feel . I wish all I have to do is roads .lmfaf.
That’s good everything I do is by feel also in my opinion blading roads is one of the harder things to do because we are doing everything by feel and visual where a blade on a job site has stakes and hubs to go off of I’ve done both running blade in a job site putting streets and pads in is easy work to me.
What about dealing with little to no gravel at all?? I'm brand new at this and there's a lot of sections in my township where if you cut the road at all you hit dirt...and hardly any of the roads are 22ft wide, looking for some advice on how to take care of roads like this.
As far as little to no gravel I’d maintain it the same way I do in the video it will be just dirt not ideal but if that’s what you have to work with and as far as the narrow roads if you can I’d widen them out to 22 feet if you can’t you have to work with what you got hopefully this helps if you got another question ask away thanks for watching.
I do like that grader we don’t have the new h we only have the ms in Australia
I’m confused about when you say when you pull in on your left side use your left hand 90% of the time. Does that mean you use your heel side for adjustment or the toe side? I have a bad habit of adjusting both heel and toe while grading. I’m adjusting my heel based off what I feel in seat but then I notice the toe side a little to high or low the so I lower the toe side to fix. I’m adjusting way to much and end up not getting a level surface.
So when I say that pulling in a windrow of material you generally can make small adjustments with just your left blade lift now obviously if you need more crown you might have to adjust your heel and toe both I try to only make very small adjustments when necessary the less you adjust your moldboard the more consistent your road is going to be if that makes sense hopefully this clarifies it for you. Thanks for asking the question and thanks for watching.
i see youre leaving a maintenance Windroll but doesnt that stop your water from draining of the road just like when you undercut your shoulder ?
No it doesn’t stop any water from getting off the road it’s a light windrow and water will run right through it even if it does hold back a little water the benefits of having a maintenance windrow are greater then the negative in my opinion.
I'm coming in late to this video (1 year mark) but, I have a quick question or 2... I noticed the gravel seems nice and moist; did was this moistened by weather or a truck coming through previously? And, how important is that in this situation? Did you get any rolling done to the finished road after?
This was just natural moisture from a rain we had the night before I unfortunately don’t have a water truck so I use what moisture I have as far as that goes it is nice to have moisture if you can have it in this video I don’t have a packer but I do on my other townships machine and having the packer makes a big difference sealing it up
@@graderman140m Your thoughts are what I was thinking with the similar scenario running through my genius brain. LOL
Just curious..for a simple grading job how come you’re only cutting one side at time? Its not like you’re pulling a ditch or a high shoulder. Wouldn’t it be simpler and fewer passes to cut both sides to the center and then go down the middle and spread your material out down the center of the road and then make two passes..one on each side to put you material back out and you’re done.
The way I do it works best for me I’ve seen guys do it the way you described not saying it wrong but that more passes then what I do plus I like lining up with my center line helps you keep your road straight plus you get a good mix of material if I cut the whole road into one big windrow so that’s just what works for me thanks for the comment and hopefully that gives ya an explanation
@@graderman140m vpp
@@jerrybarr8709 ???
Ficou muito boa essa estrada 🛣 😃 mestre
What is the width of the travel way? And width of shoulder please. Thanks for your attention to detail. Very nice work. Wish I had crushed rock to work with. Nothing but sand here.
My road width is 22ft and I have around 2ft of grass shoulder and your welcome and I’m very fortunate to have good gravel to work with in my area i know others aren’t so lucky thanks for watching!
Wow..4-5% is quite a bit for a road!..
You would think that would be a lot when asphalt roads have a 2% crown on them but 4-5% is perfect for a gravel road that is constantly changing with traffic I figure 1/2 inch of crown per foot of road width hope this explains why we put 4-5% on our gravel roads here.
@@graderman140m I graded a lot of road in Alberta and some of the back roads we put some pretty aggressive slope on them to combat ice buildup in the winter…but then some of the new road renewals we did we only put 1.5% on them…and they were gravel roads!..I thought that was way too flat but that’s why the engineers wanted so that’s what they got!..🤷🏻♂️…I found that 3% was a good all round slope for crown…cheers my friend!!
Do u ever use AWD while laying this size of windrow ?
I do use the AWD to heel up the dumped material to equalize it once it’s equalized and in a windrow I shut it off just use my differential lock while I lay it back down
@@graderman140m Thanks stay safe
wheres your magic feathers LOL
Lol you couldn’t see them that’s right there magic.
Why did you articulate on your shoulder pass, I'm assuming so your front tire didn't ride up on the window?
I articulated so that I could get more angle on my moldboard allowing me to pull in the bigger windrow of material also used it to keep my front tires from running on it.
So I've been running a new a m3 but we have an older m, a few h, and even old g that I run for rough work.... I noticed that non of them like to articulate with the diff lock
And I hate the clunk and bang when you disengage the diff lock
@@donniebreen3984 I guess I’ve never tried articulating while my differential is locked be extremely hard on the diff I definitely wouldn’t recommend having it on while articulating or turning over 20 degrees and main reason you getting that clunk and bang is your unlocking your differential under pressure it won’t do that while not under pressure.
How long does it take you to do one mile of road like in your video? Couple of hours? Do you compact it after you set the crown?
Great video and subscribed.
It’s all of 2 hrs to get the whole process done and yeas once I’m done laying everything down I go back over the whole road with my packer sealing it up glad to hear you liked the video thanks for subscribing and thanks for watching!
👍
How do you blade and get rid of that little windrow from the very last pass
You would just have to lay a little more down on each of the final passes I like leaving a small maintenance windrow on the edge that way you always have a little material to work with plus it easier to maintain your crown hope this answers your question thanks for watching!
yep, basically you feather that window back across till you lose it
How many tons do you put per mile? Where I am at we do 200 to 300 tons per mile.
It varies by the township but majority of them I put down 2100 tons a mile and that gives me 3 inches down on the road
Where can i buy one of those slope gauges ?
They sell them on Amazon here is a link to the one I have
Industrial Lev-o-Gage 9 - Glass Tube Inclinometer (Model 1112-I) a.co/d/7fe2pTZ
Thanks mate. A mystery revealed
Happy to help
How come with todays high tech graders my state can’t get rid of washboards. In the 70 s and early 80s there was never a washboard road today it’s on every gravel road.
Lot of it is the traveling public driving to fast on the gravel roads another big factor is poor quality surface gravel
It the higher hp vehicles and diesels with light back ends and the fact that everyone is in a rush nowadays. You don’t see people just cruising at 60 km per hr. They are going 110 on gravel and hammering the brakes at corners just the give her shit again after they turn.
You got any narrow twisty stuff? Lol. I'm looking at an old galion t500 straight frame to take care of my road. It's always been done with tractors with rakes, I've got it better with a rear blade but it only cuts so much and it's a bitch to hold a grade. The galion has a 12' moldboard and the road is 12-16' wide between the trees or banks, with quite a few curves and some steep hills
I don’t have anything like that in my area to deal with a grader will definitely help but if you have a narrow road and lots of tight turns a straight frame machine is not the best for them conditions in my opinion.
@@graderman140m no doubt. Ideally I would like to have like a fiat allis 65, but for the money I can’t really pass it up, never find it again
@@tinysworld1749 definitely got to make do with what your equipped with the old galion will get the job done.
Do you know of any blade classes in iowa?
I don’t know of any I’d recommend contacting your Iowa LTAP they will be able to tell ya when they have classes.
i never ever had all this leveling gear just seat of my ass and when main roads checked all spot on even some corner did not mach they got me to cut corner in to match and line up with rest off the h/way all ways spot on
I generally do everything by feel all the newer graders have crown gauges in them it is nice for a reference but definitely not necessary I find it helpful for newer operators learning the machine and feel for the correct grade.
Seen where you haven't maneuver your tires on 3rd lay down so it's the Best way???
Yes the way I demonstrated in the video is the way I recommend thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
Salut c'est bon et formidables
Where do you get your window levels from
I get mine off Amazon here is a link for the one I have Industrial Lev-o-Gage 9 - Glass Tube Inclinometer (Model 1112-I) a.co/d/1vPReDn
Are you in South Dakota?
Yes I’m am in the Hartford area
Tho so.. I been working over in the elk point area
👷👷👷
🤝🤝🤝🤝
how does the water get off the road where you left the winrow
It’s a light soft maintenance windrow water will simply wash right through it and even if it holds back a little water the pros of having it outweigh the negatives.
@@graderman140mi cant think of any pros. Leaving a windrow is sloppy and pointless.
Which cantry
What about the 1/4 crowns?
Never heard of 1/4 crowns in a gravel road before I keep all my roads 3 to 4 %
We would lose our contracts so fast here if we left a windrow like that on the edge of any of our county roads. In 20 yrs I've never articulated to spread gravel on top of a road. Maybe that's just the difference between Canada and the USA!!
Yeah just about everyone in my state here leaves a maintenance windrow so yeah it’s different everywhere you go.
@@graderman140mleaving a window is dumb and sloppy. It defeats the purpose of a crown, acting as a dam.
@@redrustyhill2 obviously everyone does things differently I just show the way I maintain my roads in my area in my opinion there’s lots of benefits from a maintenance windrow you don’t think there is and that’s perfectly fine I have no complaints on my roads and leaving a maintenance windrow is the way I do it thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@graderman140m what's the "benefit"?
You have material available for maintenance, pot holes, low spots, etc. Otherwise you have to have gravel delivered. Gotta understand that gravel disintegrates so having it already on site has a lot of benefits for the township.
theres no way its 500 yards a mile that road is way to narrow maybe 200 yards. unless it was a brand new build even then the roads way too small how long have you ran a grader?
Believe me there’s 500 yds a mile on this road I’ve been operating a grader for 16 years now I don’t like using yds but that’s how my gravel supplier does his bid 500 yds is not much gravel on a mile that only about an inch of gravel on that 22 ft road I normally put on 2100 tons a mile that gives me 3 inches of gravel on a 24ft road top.
@@graderman140m Gravel must be pretty damn cheap where you guys live.
The Max we will put on is 150 per mile on existing roads
The only time we get up around the 400 yd per mile is a brand new roadtop that's a 15 m roadtop (45 feet)
@@Jason-jh9ue our gravel is fairly cheap from the 2 suppliers I have on is 10.00 a ton delivered anywhere in the township and the other is 14 so pretty reasonable in my area we also have lots of pits in our area so that keeps cost down.
@@graderman140m That would be nice our gravel is $40 a yard delivered but not spread.
We stockpile in the Winter and spread in the summer
@@Jason-jh9ue wow that’s crazy and it always amazes me how different things are other places it really opens your eyes knowing how lucky I am to be able too have the material I do and at the price I get it at others are not so lucky thanks for the discussion and thanks for watching.
a
Isnt the purpose of a crown is to allow rainwater to drain off the road?
Rainwater wont drain off a gravel road, it will seep into the ground
betwix the rocks.
!
Yes the purpose of a crown is to get the water off the road if you don’t have a crown water will soak in to the base and causing road failure.
Camera on board actually didn't show anything but your front and back.
Bende 14 yıllık greyder operaturuyum bende oraya gelebilirmiyim yardımcı olurmusunuz şuanda almanyada yim