ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- DIY control panel for the Schaublin 125-CNC brings a great improvement in ergonomics.
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Engineer PA-09 Molex pin crimp pliers
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tinyurl.com/5cv2yscb
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00:00 - Intro
00:31 - Finish up the wiring
02:12 - Digital Advent calendar
04:19 - Testing
14:51 - A nice day skiing
22:13 - Control panel assembly.
27:10 - E-Stop test
28:40 - LinxuxCNC Classic ladder configuration
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Music
iTMR - Get Gone
Dan Zeitune - One Way Trip
Dan Ayalon - The Look in Your Eyes - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Neatly laced wire bundles are what separate man from the animals. 🤩
Thanks Jim, that and the chamfers on the wires right :)
@@RotarySMP That might be time misspent on electrical wire, but taking the sharp ends off your _lockwire_ is certainly a kindness to the next guy.
I designed a PCB that clamps into the Phoenix connector and holds an 8P8C socket.
Hi Andy, was that for the Cat 5 cable? I figure CAT 5 are now pretty much trash, so it doesn't really bother me that much to butcher them.
Sweet - this whole conversation has really come a long way. Remember, if it was easy it wouldn’t be rewarding. Happy New Year Mark. (She really didn’t like that binary candle holder 😮).
Hi Joel, this is a bit step up in the usability, and safety of use of the Schaublin. I am really happy with it.
Hi Mark, on the crimping problems (including the locking tab issue @21:37), I think the main problem is your crimper. I love some of the Engineer brand tools (like their screw pliers and tiny adjustable wrench!) but in general, fits-all crimping pliers are doing to be painful, especially if they're not cycle-controlled. That The PA-09 only produces a B-crimp, which is appropriate for the wire crimp but not the insulation one on either of these terminals. You need an O-crimp with rounded top. The combination of pin and wire size (either buying the appropriate-size pin when multiple are available, or just making sure you're using an appropriately-sized wire) is also important.
I was lucky enough in a previous job to have access to the official crimpers (when the manual tools exist, $300-500), but these clone "dupont" terminals are another thing entirely. Molex KK and Mini-Fit Jr tend to be more forgiving about using the wrong tool than anything by JST or the "dupont" terminals. I probably have tried a hundred crimpers by now (I normally count them in liters of storage bins) and once appeared on a podcast to tell my most difficult crimper-buying story.
In the "budget category" ($25 or so) I would recommend either the Preciva PR-3254 (US B07R1H3Z8X, UK B07QNPZDTW) or the iWiss/icrimp SN-025 (US B08BZ8TQTX, UK B08D9DHP4T), both of which feature an O-crimp for insulation which is what those longer tabs are intended for. Those are the amazon product ids for the respective stores, there are many clones-of-clones around and I don't know how good they are, and I assume you filter links. I don't see any direct .de/.at product listings, sorry.
The next category up for "dupont" is about $300 (and even that is off-label use, originally intended for AMP Multimate III+).
Hope this helps.
Crimping is a real science isn't it. I was pretty happy with the grip those pliers put on the wire.
@@RotarySMP yeah, it's one of those deceptively-complex things, like measuring thread depth. There are dedicated tools generally outside the hobbyist price range but they make the operation a lot less fiddly and something you can enjoy.
It must have felt very satisfying to get all buttoned up. You may have to use your tools to make some tools soon or find another machine to spend 3 years rebuilding ;).
Yeah, I still have some more projects on the Schaublin, but also look forward to doing some other projects.
FYI, the forward voltage on blue LEDS can be quite high (3-4V), when compared to say a red/green LED (1.8-2V). Therefore the extra voltage drop across the diode will have a big influence on the maximum amount of current that can flow, for a given voltage across the LED (as the LED isnt fully turned ON). Better to test with an LED with a lower forward voltage (e.g. red or green). Or just use the continuity function on your DMM.
I wanted to use blue LED's in the control for some functions, but yeah, the current draw is too high.
@@RotarySMP You should always use some resistor in Series with the LED when feeding from a constant Voltage to limit the current, because the Voltage/Current Function on Diodes is exponentional. Changing the Voltage on a Diode by 10% is like adding 10% more turns to a Screw when tightening this Screw - not always the best solution.
@@juergenschimmer960 Thanks Jürgen. I naively thought that blue LED's are fine with 3.3V and the 7i73 outputs 3.3V, so it must be a great match. Duh!
very good video RotarySMP
Thanks for watching.
If you have to handwire a keyboard again, there are single switch pcbs (the amoebas for example) that make the job easier. You can even install sockets for mx-type switches on them.
Maybe someone already pointed this out, I assume that there is a significant high-end custom keyboard / cnc machining community intersection, because after all those keyboard cases need to be milled from blocks of metal.
I never found the amoebas. But did use something similar from amazon for the lower panel switches.
I am sure their is a market. I am not going to do commercial or customer work. I am way too slow to make a go of something like that, and already have a job :) This is just a hobby.
Peter from mesa is an awesome human being.. (he is a real person - I have met him.. :) )
His support in the LinuxCNC forum is exemplary. I would have never got this far without his patient answers to my idiotic questions.
Mark great video as always crimping tools should always match the crimp that is why the makers charge so much for the crimpers lol😂I have bought all my ones second hand for far less.
Jon.
I am happy those Engineer PA-09's work so well on Molex crimps. I have no idea what the proper ones would be, but I got good secure crimps .
My first thought when you said that current should flow from OUTPUT to INPUT as well - that's not what it means. In fact, because some microcontrollers only provide internal Pull-up resistors, and no Pull-down ones, most notably AVR, it's usually the exact opposite. The input pin is held at supply voltage, and switches are then connected to ground, so when you close the switch, electricity is actually flowing from the INPUT to the OUTPUT.
OUTPUT means that a pin is actively driven, via the internal totem pole. INPUT means it is in a high z (high impedance) state, and this has no influence over polarities. Pull-up and pull-downs are required because otherwise without any switch closed, the line would not be in a known state. Due to the high impedance of input pins, it actually starts to act like an antenna, toggling around by itself.
Happy new year Alexander. I wonder if I am the first person to misunderstand that from the manual. Not a big deal, and I am glad I separated the inputs and ouputs on separate pinhead connectors. Wasn't a big deal to switch them and transpose the pin assignments.
Also some Outputs can Sink a higher current and can source only a few 100uA. Also the Voltage drop between GND and Output when the Output is switched Low is much lower then the Voltage Drop between VCC and Output when switched high.
@@juergenschimmer960 That's right, although more relevant when you power LEDs. Then you generally want the microcontroller to sink the current, and not source it.
@@RotarySMP Frohes Neues dir auch. Next time just ask your daughter 😉
I had linuxcnc in my Emco lathe and after it run to the chuck twice for not reading tool offsets for what ever reason after turret rotation I got fed up with it.
Went with bespoke cnc controller SZGH-cnc990tdb-2 and only regret is why I didn’t do it sooner. Very easy to setup, no fiddling around, and very good customer support. Just something to think about. And after all the mesa hardware I would say its even cheaper.
I don't like that LinuxCNC cancels G43 if you E-Stop. Forgetting that caused me to bury a tool in the Maho table.
Those tabs on the molex pins aren't too long. They're designed to fold one over the top of the other around the insulation and act as a strain relief.
I couldn't get them to cleanly wrap and grip without shortening them bit. Then they worked well. I guess they are sized for the thickest wire and insulation they could possibly get mounted on.
I've always hated crimping pins. It's the entire reason I have a 3D printer project that's been sitting u finished in the garage for 2 years. I'm going to investigate that link you've left in the doobly doo.
@@RotarySMP That's because those crimping pliers are garbage I know it, because I own the same one.
In theory the right tool would fold the small tabs over the exposed copper, and the longer ones over the isolation as strain relief.
If you get the correct molex crimping pliers. The ones with the vertical silver crimping dies, they have the correct geometry to fold the rear longer wings in on themselves piercing into the insulation which mechanically holds the pin on. You don’t want to just wrap the wings around. These crimping pliers work on all types of connects molex, jst, duetch
@@TheRoboboat Do you have an article number?
Neat, congrats! It looks like buttons "tool 3" and "tool 4" are swapped in the wrong places. Cheers!
I did that as the tool changer has them in a circle, and it seemed logical to make the buttons go in a circle. We'll see once I get to the tool changer overhaul whether I still like that logic :)
Haven't got a clue what you're doing there, but it's great to watch. Thanks.
Thanks Willem.
I did so much of my downhill skiing at night as a kid, it's wild seeing a lift being shut down so early in the day!
Yeah, the field closes pretty early, but you saw that most people had already left.
If you ever happen do another of these CNC conversions and you don't feel like wire spaghetti (Even if it's neat wire spaghetti)
I'd be happy to route you a PCB. :D
It looks awesome!
thank a lot for you kind offer.
3:30 I have just recently tossed out a 4 and an 8 port switch out of a large machine.
The ports got worn out from slight vibrations which is kind of... unavoidable when you have a 135kW motor running nearby. It resulted in random VFDs throwing COM errors more and more often. The switches were both siemens and not more than 5 years old and all the ports felt loose, like every single one. In your case a high vibration environment for those soldered connectors are pretty bad for serviceability when it hits the fan, these ones are much more rugged and easier to replace.
Good observation. I am hoping, since my machine are in a sort of retirement home, that the wiring will last a decade or two.
@@RotarySMP It might just be a bad batch or bad model with an issue affecting the whole series. Take my opinion with a grain of salt as one should but it does happen.
Wow, I’d call that a significant milestone indeed! Good on ya. 👍
Hi Doric, I am really happy with it. That is a bit improvement in usability, and safety.
Maybe someone already mentioned, but monitor flicker can be caused by loss of sync. This is normally a bad cable or connector in the hdmi chain. HDMI isn't an industrial protocol and it is very susceptible to EMC problems.
Make sure to use a good quality shielded cable.
The issue is that I designed around a ribbon cable right angle connector, and now dont have space for a thick shielded cable. I will keep playing with cable position. Maybe I find a sweet spot.
@@RotarySMP Buy some metalized tape and wrap the ribbon with it. This is a fairly common method to shield things as an afterthought.
In order to test the EMC theory you can either reduce the resolution or the refresh rate of the video output. If the flicker goes away you can make a bigger effort to shied everything better. I hope this helps!
@@braspatta It is not so much a flicker, as whole drop outs, lasting from seconds, to sometimes being mostly blanked, with just flashing on and then gone again.
I will try some foil and see if it improves.
I have used this same monitor with the laptop without issue.
@@RotarySMP Sorry, maybe flicker is not the best description. I saw in the video and this is very similar to what I've seen before when I had problems with noise.
The noise causes the monitor to loose sync, the monitor disconnects the input and waits for the signal to be stable again.
Try reducing the resolution and see if that stops the behaviour (not the solution, but just a way of confirming the suspension). The reduced resolution reduces the clock speed of the signal in the cable, which makes it less prone to errors.
@@braspatta Thanks for the tip. I'll try that.
I felt so stupid last video trying to grasp the logic around the matrix. Now I feel a lot better 😂👍
Yeah, sorry I screwed that up badly.
@@RotarySMP No worries. Now it sticks to the brain. It probably wouldn’t had otherwise 👍😂
It finally hit me as to who you remind me of........ Mick Molloy. BTW, long live David Bowie, RIP (still can't believe that he survived the seventies but didn't reach 120 years old).
I'd never heard of Mick Molloy. I emigrated nearly 30 years ago, so I have little contact with down under media.
Yeah, Bowie was a genius.
That is one hell of a nice build. I skipped a lot of the electronics assembly and testing but loved the LinuxCNC part at the end. Happily enough, I just hopped in when you explained the Pilz safety relay. These things are expensive but worth all their money. I have a few of them, older types, not having a timer. I guess now I have to get one for my new machine too 😁
A small note on the wax looming: it seems you put a single (or double) knot on top of the loop. I learned to loop the wax cord as a mast throw (Mastwurf) with a single knot on the two ends below the outer loop of the mast throw). In this way, both ends of the rope are at the bottom and the knot cannot untie.
Thanks for the tip. I never learned lacing, as I did the mechanical apprenticeship in the RNZAF. All that wiring was left for the avionics guys.
Something I’d say to think about is having the feed override switch resetting to 0% not 100%, that way you can easily feed hold and control the speed at the same time 7:37
Good point. It is the safer option.
I won’t take credit for it, it’s just how my vmc functions at work, and if I had it set to 5% and accidentally pressed it, and it jumped to 100 I’d poo my pants 🤣
@@Kyran31 I can see that happening.
Congrats on completing this milestone! What a fantastic way to start the year 🎉
In in awe of your patience and dedication for that wiring😊
Thanks a lot. I am pretty happy with how it has come out.
Happy New Year Mark! Well done on the connection battle.
Happy new year. It has been a nice mini project.
Amazing work, and what a great way to get into the new year.
Exciting stuff ahead!
Thanks for your kind feedback.
Congrats on getting the control panel working. It looks really good. Happy new years.
Thanks a lot Jakob, same to you.
Amazing work Mark - well done!
Many thanks!
Looks really good, congratulations and happy new year
Thank you! You too!
Ich wünsche dir ein gesundes neues Jahr. Wieder mal ein gelungenes Video mit einem tollem Thema. Weiter so :-) I love your videos. ❤
Servus Peter, danke dir. Ebenfalls.
Wahoo! new Rotary SMP vid! Happy New Year to you and the missus - Heather
Thanks Heather, Hope you had a good break as well.
Someone in the linuxcnc from has made a board wit a rj45 connector which you can be screwed into the Mesa blocks. Just can't find it at the moment.
alway thought this was kind of neat, but also just cut a cable.
Hi Patric, a link to one was post on the LinuxCNC forum, but it was not a big deal to just butcher the cable.
Happy 2024... Thanks for posting your videos!
Same to you! Thanks Mike.
So awesome! Was hoping to see some chips flying but the process to get it up to this point was very interesting...TONS of troubleshooting, but worth it in the end!
Keep em coming!!!!
Thanks a lot. I was really focused on getting that Ladder logic right, so I ran out of time to turn something.
The controller looks great! This machine is coming along really nicely.
Thanks. I think so too :)
Beautiful! From the ground up electronics build with no smoke let out. Great work!
Thanks a lot Brian.
This is awesome! 🎉 🎇 🤩
What a great way to start the year
Thanks Jim, it is a pretty good start for the Schaublin usefulness.
Great progress. You are more patient than I while trouble shooting
Hi Robert. I was worried that the trouble shooting would be a bear, but it turned out to got pretty fast, with a bit of systematic step by step through what I did. Glad I made that spread sheet to document it.
That looked like a Poma / Leitner lift, although a more upmarket one than the budget version I drive. You'd get a proper kick from a visit to the mechanical parts of the lift itself. Loads of stuff that's very similar to a CNC machine, if you get a look around one with automated chair parking it'll blow you mind.
I am pretty sure that Doppelmayr has the market sewn up here in their home turf. There are a couple of those self parking, six seat lifts with butt warmer on this field. Nice :)
@@RotarySMP Ah, Doppelmayr are pretty good, very overbuilt in many respects but the electrical side is a pain in the hole. Not seen full self parking on any of the ones I've done maintenance for, only the semi-auto setup.
@@wibblywobblyidiotvision I dont really know the mechanism, I just saw that they have those shunting areas to park the chairs.
Happy New Year, Mark!
Thanks Vince, you as well.
Better you than me, does my head in that stuff, well done figuring it all out 👍
Thanks. I was pretty happy that I got it to work. I had my doubts :)
Congratulations, that looks very tidy inside and out!
Thanks. It is a big improvement in usability.
Well done ,you have much more patience than I.👍 Looking forward to seeing a project on this machine.
Thanks Ken. So am I.
Great progress 😀 really coming together 😀
Thanks Julia. It was an important milestone.
Great job! Have been fun to follow this journey so far. Let´s see what 2024 brings! 🙂
Thanks Thomas.
Very interesting video. Lots of progress made, and the troubleshooting of the switches on the control panel was informative. Seems you're nearly done with the Schaublin!
Thanks a lot. It was a bit step forward for this project. There are still two be parts to do. I need to strip the tool changer, clean it and get it mechanically working, and tied into LinuxCNC, and I need to design and make the pendant with the jog wheels.
I have those two Engineer tools and it can't be overstated how good they are. The solder sucker is by far and away the best one I've ever used. Same for the micro crimper, it does an amazing job. Good stuff as always. Happy new year, cheers!
Thanks for the confirmation on them. They were recommended to me by an Avionics Tech mate.
Nice job! She is a fine machine and will be running well once fully set up...
Thanks Camillo. This is a nice step in usability. And hopefully also safety.
Looks great mate!
Thank you! Cheers!
super impressed with what you've done , that's a lot of math's and science and coffee .....me brain turned to mush early on lol , went through a restoration of an old EmcoTronics M1 control for my F1P mill years ago....made me nuts but it has worked great for years now , worth the effort but never again :)
Thanks John. I am always challenged by this, as I learn something doing this, but by the time I have to trouble shoot it, I have forgotten I learnt it.
Woohoo, indeedy! Looking very clean and as if this is how it would have been designed today.
Thanks Philip. I am pretty happy with it.
Lot of progress there 👍.
Thanks Chris. I am really happy with this milestone in the project.
Very cool! Can you add ladder logic for fault conditions to give yourself some feedback on a screen to correct the issue?
I think ladder may be capable of that. I am currently not at that level :)
Man... you're going to have to start thinking of actual things to make with this lathe soon! Or do you plan to keep fiddling with it / adding things to it forever 😀
Hi Steve, I still have some fiddling to do. Need to strip and integrate the tool changer, and also need to make the pendant.
@@RotarySMP And there's that data plate... That still needs a bit of a clean
I might have worn the letters off before it gets clean :)
To fix your flickering monitor all you need to do is to replace a few capacitors. I did it on one of my monitors and 15 years later it's still going strong. My 0,80€ investment was really worth it.
I suspect that as well. Pretty disappointing on a newish device.
I have a pair of 34" Dell professional monitors that I bought for a pretty penny about 10 years ago. When the sun shines on them one of them starts to glitch out pretty badly. I said lemme go ahead and replace the caps. I opened one of them and it has hundreds (I'm not joking) of a particular Chinese brand of caps that are known to be problematic. The problem is to recap these monitors would cost hundreds of dollars in quality Nichicon capacitors as there are so many variants on all the boards. Even as an electronics engineer myself, it just isn't worth it when I can buy a brand new 32" 4k monitor for circa $300 - $400.
@@vincei4252 This was only a $120 monitor, but I designed the whole thing around it :(
I have two monitors that started doing that a few months ago. They're both Dell but different models and a few years apart, and they both started doing it at the same time, so I doubt it's capacitors in my case, seems like too much of a coincidence. Running Ubuntu, I'm suspecting a software issue.
The monitor is powered by USB. At first I suspected it was a cable issue but I have tried a variety of HDMI and USB cables.
Great work Mark.good vid nice to see the skiing. I always ran a spare cat 5 cable as a draw cable just in case. Sometimes used it to draw new cable through Sometimes used the conductors for added features thought of at a latter date.
That is an excellent tip. I should have done that as there is plenty of space.
00:35 - paid actor!! (Or the only thing i could think of to feed the algorithm..)
:) thanks.
Well done
Thanks.
Thanks for a Brilliant vidclip, Very Very Clever 'Logic'. Best wishes to You and Yours from ChCh, NZ .... Originally from Cape Town .... :-) :-) :-)
Hi Keith. Thanks. It LinuxCNC is a great program.
Happy New Year, Mark. That's some awesome progress on the Schaublin. As far as reversing the encoders goes, was there no way to do that in the Linux CNC or Mesa configuration?
Hi JC,
I probably could have, but it was no effort to depin those two wires from each connector and flip them around.
1) Oh, you have only one pair for control panel e-stop? What will happen if contact in e-stop switch breaks? Or if there is short circuit on wire? For foot pedal both channels switch off which is correct.
2) I'd personally add short timer after speed comparator just to be sure, but that might be my professional deformation :) Also I'd allow start of spindle only if gear is switched in one of positions for longer than some minimum time. What will happen when you press gear change and spindle start quickly? I guess it starts changing gears and starts spindle at same time?
3) CCW override is interesting as it gives command S -264, hope it will be easy fix!
I have been informed that I should rewire all the estops into a series chain into CH1, and ideal run second contacts on each switch into Ch2. I need to go back and look at the footswitch E-Stop, but I don't think it had dual contacts.
@@RotarySMP Yup, that's exactly how it's done in industry. Everything twice. There are quite smart protections which will trigger safety error when:
- there is short circuit between any of four wires
- both channels are disconnected (E-STOP pressed) at same time
- at least one channel gets disconnected (beware there might be small additional delay)
- both channels get connected (E-STOP released) with big enough time difference (some fraction of second)
- maybe some other protections I missed
I might look back into your videos to check how foot switch looked like. Most switches (like Pizzato for example) have removable contact blocks, so you can just buy 2x NC and insert it in body.
Really coming along, excellent to see. Wondering if a graphite pencil and acetone could knock that grime loose on the nameplate…
I can't be too quick with the grime removal. I still have another 40 episodes :)
@@RotarySMP that is why I've been holding of suggesting bamboo skewers.
Oops😯
I remember a while ago watching a video from Tamiya models. the mold makers used bamboo sticks for polishing
all of the find details.
@@steveggca Good idea. I have tried normal woods :)
Happy new year!
Congrats on the progress!
Do you already have some jobs for the machine in the pipeline?
Hi Rob. At this stage I am still focused on the last major sub projects. The tool changer and the pendant.
The relay for emergency stop should not be used like this. Both buttons should switch off both channels. The two channels are there for redundancy not for separate devices. Both buttons should be in series forming the two loops thru all buttons in the system.
Thanks a lot for your feedback and experience on this. I can easily rewire it, so I will change it to your suggestion.
Glad I could help! Finally I can use this knowledge outside my work :-)
Im just waiting for you to put coloured feedback/state lights in the buttons and day/night coloured backlighting.
:)
I put the colored LED's into the switches, but used too many , with too much current draw, so that they cant be used together. Maybe I can supply more power to the 7i73, to make them work.
@RotarySMP after a quick read of the manual, it looks like you'd need an external 5v supply to the card rather than just the +ve coming down the cat5 cable? don't want to smoke the card it's being fed by.
I never realised how long these folks have been making this kind of hardware. Such a handy tool for abstracting the hardware/software needed for connecting remote controls to a cpu. I'd expected to run a pile of cables all the way to the CPU and have a huge/ugly cluster of IO being done by the already busy computer.
@@thebigchuckster Yeah, Mesa is a great company. Peter is really active on the LinuxCNC forum, and provides custom firmware set up's for those with unusual configurations.
Thanks for mentioning my channel! ☺
That control looks great man!
I love how you did the interlock for the tailstock retract until the spindle is off. That's a really important safety feature.
Also you gave me an idea with that PILZ safety plc. For now my estop only goes into linuxcnc and not at all into the drives. My Delta VFD has a STO feature (safe torque off) but what I noticed is that when STO is ON the drive cuts power to the motor so there's no brake anymore. And in my case, what I want when I press Estop is to brake the spindle as fast as possible.
But if PILZ plc has a delay in it, it would give it enough time to brake the motor.
Do you intend to use the joystick for feeding too? Or just for jogging? In fact the question is if you intend to use this machine more as a manual lathe or more as a cnc lathe?
Hi Vasi, I need to hook up the Schaublin electro- mechanical spindle brake. I have been procrastinating on that. If that doesn't work, I will need to find space for a braking resister module. The one from Lenze for this VFD model is as large as the VFD. I would really like to have the machine stop fast, for both safety and convenience. There are a lot of different PNOZ from Pilz. I got this second had specifically for that second channel with delay.
I hope I dont get into the habit of machining with the joystick. Andy lathe macros are so good, that it makes more sense to do even simple jobs with them.
I will still make a pendant down on the front with two jog wheels, and maybe se that for manual things.
Was hast du für einen technischen Hintergrund um die Adern so zu binden und zu beschriften? Aerospace, Telecom, Bahn ….. ?
Hi Berhard,
Ich bin ein LFZ Wart, aber mechanik. Ich habe keine Electroausbildung. Ohne beschriftung wäre ich aufgeschmissen :)
There's a lot of hours gone into that and it shows. Looks like a bought one 👍
Thanks for noticing. This mini project really did take a lot of hours.
Great work!
To drive more than one led with the 7i73 i used a uln2003a chip...
Thanks Werner. Is that a low voltage LED type?
@@RotarySMP 5v in my case. But you can drive anything till 50v 0.5A with this driver...
@@werneramort2703 The issue for me is wiring :)
Oooh! I got carried away seing your skiing footage! 💝🤗
Many years since my last trip to Austria and the Alps. Where did you go skiing?
Nassfeld in the Gailtal. Our friends live close by, so I have mostly skied there in the last two decades.
Great job! I forget, did that lathe have an enclosure for coolant?
There is a sliding housing. It will need to be cut down and may still be too big for my little basement shop.
Oh no! No love for the binary candle holder. Honestly, I would slap some epoxy over the burns and use it. But also maybe make the base wider so it does not fall over. Even the "full size" looks like it could be a bit top heavy.
Thanks Joe, but this is going in the furnace :)
No shielding for the mains power running alongside signal cables up the arm?
Just the Cat 5 cables shielding. They are shielded right ?
Good progress! Your back gear sounds a bit dry?
I'll recheck the oil level. I think that noise is the wide toothed belt though.
Progress!
Yep, this was a nice milestone.
It's been probably quite a challenge but happy to see you've reached a milestone. This has inspired me to build my own CNC 125. The plain 125 has all screw cutting capabilities missing but would this matter at all in a conversion to CNC?
Oh, so your lathe must be a 125A, as they had not screw cutting.
You are probably better off selling the manual 125 and buying a used 125-CNC, as the CNC's are normally much much cheaper, and already have the spindle encoder, and ball screws. You can probably do this and have enough profit to buy all new motors and drivers etc.
@@RotarySMP thank you for your reply. And I appreciate your insight. Luckily I have not bought any yet but was offered a quite affordable unit in good shape. I might just leave it then. 🙂
@@valkman761 I only paid €2400 for my 125-CNC. I have never seen a manual 125, not even a 125A go for less than €7500. If you can get the 125A cheaply, buy it :)
@@RotarySMP it would be below 7500€ but could be a machine hard to get rid of 🙂 .. I'd gladly go directly for a cnc version but I doubt a machine in such a good condition as yours would be readily available.
@@valkman761 Yeah, that was a lucky buy.
OMG
I see you using a pinecil soldering iron
I've been using one for half a year now and I am very happy with it, other than I have to redo my power supply because I made it a little bit too big with an unnecessarily thick cable
how do you like? What do you use to power it?
They really are brilliant arent they. I love that it has a motion sensor and has heated back up by the time you finish picking it up.
I bought it with a 60W USB-C wall wart, but that died pretty fast. Since then I have been plugging it into by apple laptop USB-C charger. I got the silicon USB-C cable from Pencil, and it is really nice and flexible. You dont even notice it.
Considering that you had to design,build,and learn all at the same time I'd call this a 100% sucess on the first try👍
It's not obvious from the video ,are the rotary switches detented ?
I ask because except for the spindle normally these switches are detented.
Hi Steve. They don't have a central position and no end stops, but they do have a notched feel, so you can feel each step.
@@RotarySMP thats the important part
@@steveggca These are just simple generic encoders, but they feel quite nice.
What are you using instead of tie wraps on the wire loom? is this some sort of nylon / poly / cotton tape / wrap that you simply tie in a knot to hold the wires together? I'm guessing this comes from the aero industry?
Hi Tom. Yes it is a wax coated lacing cord used in aviation. It is softer then tie wraps and doesn't dig in to the wire insulation. It is also easier to pass through openings, as tie wraps tend to snag.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cable_lacing
Can you remind me what screen you’re using? I don’t want to dig through all the video to find it
This is the one I installed:
amzn.to/3HtgprL
How come you "switched around" the tool 3 and 4 buttons? Is it because of how they sit on the carousel?
That was the idea. Since they are in a circle. Once I overhaul that tool changer I will see whether I like that layout.
happy new year m8
see your still fighting to get that metal batch/sign clean xD i kinda see it as small comedic input in the video these days to be honest
Me too, surprising how it triggers the audience. :)
re the Monitor that blanks oacasionally, are you by any chance running it theough an ATEM switcher?
Nope, that was just connected with HDMI to the LinuxCNC PC.
I won't lie, I thought you might have had something to say about the JAL and Alaska incidents that started the new year with a bang 😒
Two very surprising accidents. Boeing production must be filling their shorts over that door plug. Hard to believe that could be anything but a production escape.
The weak links on the JAL accident chain are not even anything new. Notam'ed holding point lights, the "#1" radio call leading to a "go" assumption likely. Very sad. Another tribute to modern cabin safety to get all out alive.
@@RotarySMP Indeed. To hear they passengers in the JAL plane were in there for 18 minutes until the last person (the captain) exited the plane is a tribute to how the cabin crew were able to keep everyone calm and open the right doors in the end. It's funny, a couple days before, I'd just watched the video of the runway incursion at LAX in the 90's where a 737 landed on a commuter plane in the dark. ATC who I believe was overloaded forgot that she'd given the commuter plane permission to enter the runway and hold for takeoff :( I sure hope Boeing can resolve their issues. They aren't doing themselves any favors.
@@vincei4252 Yeah, it must have been terrifying to those who were stuck waiting to get out.
Bizarre that the plug was adjusted well enough to stay put for two months of airline flying, and then depart.
Hi Mark I know you released this video a couple of months ago but I have watched it a few times for reference purposes. I'm currently in the process of building a controller for a gantry style router. I've settled on the mesa 7i96s and the 7i73. I will be running a single ethernet cable from a desktop computer. Does the 7i73 enable communication through the smart serial or will I need to use a switching ethernet hub and assign it with an IP address. I hope these two boards will be enough to get up and running. I am slaving the Y axis and running Steppers. Please if you read this let me know if these two boards will be sufficient for my needs. I know the 7i73 isn't strictly needed but it's nice to have clicky buttons isn't it😉.
The 7i96s can interface directly to the 7i73. You need to butcher a cat 5 cable and wire one end directly to the 7i96s SS expansion pins.
As far as I know, you cant connect these Mesa SS cards to the FPGA card through an ethernet hub, as they are using a different data protocol (RS-422/485) instead of whatever normal networks use.
@@RotarySMP thanks for the info. After looking into it further the 7i96s supports ethernet protocols and any daughter boards then use the smart serial which is great as I will only need the one ethernet connection to the computer.
What is the name of those small square buttons? And where do you get them?
These are Cherry MX keys. I bought them off amazon. The different colors have different audible and tactile clickiness.
amzn.to/3TLUy6s
@@RotarySMP thanks
Servus, tolle Video. Sehr schöne Bedieneinheit. Bitte unbedingt etwas in das Backenfutter spannen bevor es so schnell gedreht wird, nicht das es dir irgendwann die Backen heraus haut (kein Spaß). Eine Frage hätte ich auch noch. Wie kann man in Classicladder die einzelnen Bausteine beschriften? Normalerweise sind die ja %......... benannt. Bei dir ist der Eingang z.B FtSwitch. So wird das nämlich gleich viel übersichtlicher, gefällt mir richtig gut. Danke und Sg aus Tirol
Servus Flo.
Danke für die Sicherheitshinweis. Ich habe nicht darauf geachtet.
Kennst du das Ladder video series von "The Feral engineer"? Er hat Kommenting, und Symbol bennenung hier beschrieben:
th-cam.com/video/di3aBy-IYYk/w-d-xo.html
Grüße aus Wien,
Mark
@@RotarySMPDanke für die Antwort. Gibts es eine andere Möglichkeit um mit dir in Kontakt zu treten? Ich habe jetzt ebenfalls eine Schaublin 125 CNC gekauft und baue diese auf Linuxcnc um. Hast du die Dokumentation der Maschine in Digitaler Form? Wenn ja würdest du diese zur verfügung Stellen?
Danke für die Tolle Video Reihe.
Sg Flo
Servus Flo, es gibt ein Email addresse auf der Channel Hauptseite.
Ich habe auch ein Thread here:
forum.linuxcnc.org/26-turning/41498-schaublin-125-cnc-retrofit
Mark
Would it be useful to make the variator move only while the key was held down? Then you would have truly variable speed instead of just a few discreet steps. If you have a live spindle speed readout you could just release the key when you get to the speed you want. Can the CNC code adjust the variator to a specific speed while running a program?
Hi Jamie, you are right. The reason I am setting it up like this, is also have the VFD for stepless control, and since there is no feedback on the variator (open loop control to it's motor), the next step will be to do either Ladder or C+ magic to treat it like a 5 ratio gearbox, with a second of activation between ratios, plus the backgear, with the VFD running closed loop over the top, and LinuxCNC commanding the correct BG, Variator ratio and vfd frequency as required.
I have a concept, but have been procrastinating implementation.
@@RotarySMP That makes sense. I didn't realize you also had a VFD.
@@jamiestotz2516 It is a bit of overkill. I added the FVD as it was supposed to need less space than the five Schaublin contactors. By the time I added line filter and noise filter it isn't any more :/
@@RotarySMP There actually is a way to make the variator (sort of ) closed loop.
First the PLC (ladder) would need to know the gear position I believe 1:1 or 4:1
second the actual vfd/motor rpm
Third the spindle rpm
Lathes typically use M41/M42 for low/hight range 50rpm-1250rpm/50rpm-5000rpm
spindle speed is commanded s#### so S0050 to S5000 for 125-CNC
the g- code program would look something like M42 S4000
in the PLC , the gearbox would be set to high range
the motor/VFD would start turning at a PLC programmed RPM (say 50RPM)
the spindle would now start turning
using the spindle RPM , The PLC could now adjust the variator to match a preselected
rpm.
This preselected speed would match up with one of your 5 ratios.
Simple huh?
@@steveggca Having the Variator try to match speed would not work well. Since the variator speed change is a constant rate, having it the primary control of speed, would require some sort of bang bang control of the variator contactors as the spindle accelerates through a CSS facing cut.
I was thinking in terms of a look up table, selecting the BG and nearest VAR ratio based, and then having the VFD close the loop. To close the VFD closed loop to the spindle, you really need the gear ratio. Since input frequency is known and proportional to motor RPM, and output RPM is known through the spindle encoder, the ratio is always known.
The back gear needs selection before spindle start.
On a CSS cut, I was planning for the Variator to be commanded for 1 sec each time the commanded speed crossed a threshold in the look up table.
I just reread your post, and we may be talking about the same concept :)
I am pretty busy for the next couple of weeks, but after that I really want to take a shot at an integrated BG/VAR/VFD spindle control in ClassicLadder.
Most would do this in a Comp programmed in C, but I am an even worse programmer than electrician :)
Could you have used an RJ-45 breakout board instead of cutting up the cable?
I could have, but CAT 5 cables are now pretty much electro trash, so I didn't feel bad about butchering one.
@@RotarySMP True, but I was thinking more along the lines of not having to undo each wire if you need to disconnect things. :)
@@easyBob100 I can just pull the whole screw connector with the wires in it.
Problem solved then lol @@RotarySMP
👍
Thanks.
Interesting. I would never assume active high for any buttons, no electronics engineer would. Electrically, active high almost never make sense.
Which button do you mean?
@@RotarySMP any button
@@evilgremlin Thanks, but I am not able to process this info :) What does it mean for this dummy?
@@RotarySMP Pullup and active low is resistant to noise, can't false trigger from it. With active high you need quite low pulldown resistor which is waste of current, also not all MCUs have builtin pulldowns but all have pullups. Alternatively, you can use NC switches with pullup and active high. This way you can have both noise resistance and broken wire/switch detection. Not necessary for general keyboard, but practically obligatory for all endstops and soft emergency stop.
@@evilgremlin Thanks for the description. I need to rewire my E-Stop.
Definitely first today
Hi Luke. Happy new year.
Cheers,
Mark
@@RotarySMP Happy new year to you too. Looks like you made good progress with the lathe
@@LCalleja I put a lot of hours into the wiring and firmware set up in the last two weeks. Glad that it hasn't dragged on for months.
@@RotarySMPit’s nice when things come together
poor Hal wasn't is fault
It never is :)