That was gold on the D problem. I took a screwdriver, and lightly bent the housing/guard up on either side of the felt bumper, and magic. I wonder how many horns have just been bumped on that and then the D gets stuffy. If I just rest my finger on the low C and allow it to move down just a bit, it goes stuffy again. Brilliant fix. Thanks
Hey Jack, thanks for answering my question on video! I think it’s very interesting to design something based on the way you play it, as opposed to the way someone else might.
Good vid Jack. As a player of over 50 yrs., and a tech for 45, I dealt with the same issues. After spending some time talking physics with Mr. Morgan at Selmer, some years ago, he told me an interesting fact. As you alluded to as well, the bow of the saxophone is actually 5x bigger than it should be, but there's no alternative. The result is that the sound wave frequency is distorted because of the way the node and anti-node pattern is reflected throughout the bore. By throwing a specific size obstruction in the bow, the air stream velocity changes, effecting the node anti node wave pattern, and consequentially, helping the response issue. Re: stuffy D, if venting is set properly, I use the D palm key to help venting. I've heard of people drilling out the body tube venturi an extra size larger, but I didn't want to risk such a permanent action.
The stuffy D fix is blowing my mind. I would normally combat that stuffiness by using normal fingering, but opening the high D instead of the octave key. I can’t wait to try it.
Ah dear Jack, another fine episode! I especially appreciate the stuffy D advice. My tenor has an awfully stuffy D that I fight every time I play it. I will work on that C tone hole situation a bit next time I have opportunity to get it out. (My alto’s D is the best sounding note on the horn. Go figure.) Also, I really enjoy the vibe of these videos, the setting, the intro/outro music, and of course, your dashing appearance in a coat and tie. You are obviously a man of great intelligence, but aesthetics are everything when you present yourself to the world. Clearly you understand this very well. You have a very good thing going here. Thank you for the effort you make to do this right.
I've got a '35 Conn 30m tenor and the middle D stuffiness was bad. I tried opening the C# but it was too out of tune and eventually, I removed the felt bumper over the key and replaced it with a bite pad on the top of the key. It's a bit of a barn door and could use fine-tuning but is much improved.
Depending on the make/model of the horn, the low C venting is regulated by one of two methods. Either the instrument uses cylinder shaped felt bumpers, adjustable by a threaded cam on the top of the keygaurd, or the non-adjustable, in which case the felt is adjusted by trimming it. The other method manufacturers use is to install a small key "foot" on the hinge tube. The foot rests against the body tube and usually has cork on it. The thickness of the cork regulates the venting, so that's what needs to be adjusted. When you open the venting, do it just enough to clear-up the pitch. If you are too zealous, and vent too much, it will affect intonation throughout the horn.
Is there any validity to shaving/flattening the table of the Reed after playing for maybe 20 minutes, since the Reed can swell. The swelling causes the Reed to not seat well and actually rock on the mouth piece. ??
Hi jack! What about the high A above the staff being airier than notes like B and G, It seems to be fixed when i blow on the little octave thingy that opens when i finger a D
Assuming no leaks and mouthpiece is in tune, could the warbling also be caused by a neck mismatch? I have warbling issues on one sax but not on any others I've tried.
I have one alto that warbles on B, it’s terrible with some mouthpieces, better but still there with others. Pushing the mouthpiece on helps, but makes it sharp. Apparently no leaks, according to two different techs. As Jack said dropping something in the bell helps. Drives me mad though
My experience has been that each instrument make is set up on a computed set of equations that include the body tube rate of taper, overall length of the bore, and the venting of the keys. If the length of the bore is changed at the neck, and/or rate of taper is mis-matched, intonation and response can be affected; it only takes a few millimeters. Usually, the manufacturer includes their specific mouthpiece with proper specs. for the bore length. Things can get hairy with all the mouthpieces out there.
I love Jacks sense of humor. The fact that he is a very good player, like mr Ledbetter in NY gives great credibility to their efforts for me as a long time pro player.
That was gold on the D problem. I took a screwdriver, and lightly bent the housing/guard up on either side of the felt bumper, and magic. I wonder how many horns have just been bumped on that and then the D gets stuffy. If I just rest my finger on the low C and allow it to move down just a bit, it goes stuffy again. Brilliant fix. Thanks
Hey Jack, thanks for answering my question on video! I think it’s very interesting to design something based on the way you play it, as opposed to the way someone else might.
Thanks for watching Nick!! Appreciate you 😁
Good vid Jack. As a player of over 50 yrs., and a tech for 45, I dealt with the same issues. After spending some time talking physics with Mr. Morgan at Selmer, some years ago, he told me an interesting fact. As you alluded to as well, the bow of the saxophone is actually 5x bigger than it should be, but there's no alternative. The result is that the sound wave frequency is distorted because of the way the node and anti-node pattern is reflected throughout the bore. By throwing a specific size obstruction in the bow, the air stream velocity changes, effecting the node anti node wave pattern, and consequentially, helping the response issue.
Re: stuffy D, if venting is set properly, I use the D palm key to help venting. I've heard of people drilling out the body tube venturi an extra size larger, but I didn't want to risk such a permanent action.
Great stuff Gary!! Thanks so much for watching sir 👍 ❤ 🎷
The stuffy D fix is blowing my mind. I would normally combat that stuffiness by using normal fingering, but opening the high D instead of the octave key. I can’t wait to try it.
right on! hope it helps :)
Ah dear Jack, another fine episode! I especially appreciate the stuffy D advice. My tenor has an awfully stuffy D that I fight every time I play it. I will work on that C tone hole situation a bit next time I have opportunity to get it out. (My alto’s D is the best sounding note on the horn. Go figure.)
Also, I really enjoy the vibe of these videos, the setting, the intro/outro music, and of course, your dashing appearance in a coat and tie. You are obviously a man of great intelligence, but aesthetics are everything when you present yourself to the world. Clearly you understand this very well. You have a very good thing going here. Thank you for the effort you make to do this right.
You're too kind! Thank you so much for watching!!
I've got a '35 Conn 30m tenor and the middle D stuffiness was bad. I tried opening the C# but it was too out of tune and eventually, I removed the felt bumper over the key and replaced it with a bite pad on the top of the key. It's a bit of a barn door and could use fine-tuning but is much improved.
Jack, was wondering if you've ever used gauge blocks for leveling mpc. table?
Could you talk about wether I should use a Selmer Soloist mouthpiece or S-Series Mouthpiece for marching band?
Hey Liam! It could definitely work but I’m guessing you’d want something a little brighter for marching band, like the E Series perhaps? 😁
how do i open up my low c key specifically
Depending on the make/model of the horn, the low C venting is regulated by one of two methods. Either the instrument uses cylinder shaped felt
bumpers, adjustable by a threaded cam on the top of the keygaurd, or the non-adjustable, in which case the felt is adjusted by trimming it.
The other method manufacturers use is to install a small key "foot" on the hinge tube. The foot rests against the body tube and usually has cork on it. The thickness of the cork regulates the venting, so that's what needs to be adjusted. When you open the venting, do it just enough to clear-up the pitch. If you are too zealous, and vent too much, it will affect intonation throughout the horn.
Is there any validity to shaving/flattening the table of the Reed after playing for maybe 20 minutes, since the Reed can swell. The swelling causes the Reed to not seat well and actually rock on the mouth piece. ??
There certainly is, especially if your mouthpiece has a flat table! Some mouthpiece manufactures add concavity to make room for the 'swelling'.
Hi jack! What about the high A above the staff being airier than notes like B and G, It seems to be fixed when i blow on the little octave thingy that opens when i finger a D
How do you fix a stuffy middle C? Side C is free blowing
Assuming no leaks and mouthpiece is in tune, could the warbling also be caused by a neck mismatch? I have warbling issues on one sax but not on any others I've tried.
I have one alto that warbles on B, it’s terrible with some mouthpieces, better but still there with others. Pushing the mouthpiece on helps, but makes it sharp. Apparently no leaks, according to two different techs.
As Jack said dropping something in the bell helps.
Drives me mad though
My experience has been that each instrument make is set up on a computed set of equations that include the body tube rate of taper, overall length of the bore, and the venting of the keys. If the length of the bore is changed at the neck, and/or rate of taper is mis-matched, intonation and response can be affected; it only takes a few millimeters. Usually, the manufacturer includes their specific mouthpiece with proper specs. for the bore length. Things can get hairy with all the mouthpieces out there.
I love Jacks sense of humor. The fact that he is a very good player, like mr Ledbetter in NY gives great credibility to their efforts for me as a long time pro player.
Of course work stands for itself but you can’t always try before you buy so so that credibility helps me make purchase decisions.
It's a complicated beast! @@garyzimmer8061