Diagnosing and Fixing an Unknown 3D Printing Failure

  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ย. 2017
  • I'm back after a month hiatus attempting to fix a layer skipping failure that kept occurring. Watch as I go over the methods I use to attempt to diagnose and fix this problem of layer skipping on my machine.
    Sorry about the weird pulsating screen record in the later half of the video. Seems something weird happened when screen recording on my 4K screen.
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ความคิดเห็น • 178

  • RamjetX
    RamjetX ปีที่แล้ว +8

    Its amazing to see how far printing has come since this video. in 2020, an Ender 3 stock does infinitely better quality prints than his final outcome.... And honestly, it's mostly due to the shift from linear bearings on rods to rubber wheels on alloy t-slot frames. The Z banding issue from bearings and rods are practically eliminated with the 20/20 alloy frames and results in much muuuuch better overall prints

  • sammy_1_1
    sammy_1_1 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +5

    Oddly enough, I've had this issue on my ender 3 although its isnt as severe as seen here... I'll have to try this.
    I have noticed that it only occurs on very few layers, and sometimes not at all. Kinda weird

  • james
    james 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    For me, it was retraction length and combing. Moving from 6 to 4.5mm and turning on combing for less frequent retractions fixed it for me. Perfect surfaces, no stringing

  • Valex Nihilist
    Valex Nihilist 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I've been dealing with this for MONTHS. Can't wait to finish this video and I hope it solves my problem!

  • KUR1SU
    KUR1SU 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    For your first success print at around 8:45, I can see some z banding problems which I am experiencing right now on a brand new Ender 3 V2. The bands are more irregular and pretty subtle, but I have no idea how I would get that fixed. I tried tightening down all the wheels and calibrate the extruder, which made the pattern change (and improve) slightly but still not perfect. I am about to try PID firmware, but I really can't think of anything else other than that, as this is a freshly put together printer. Any idea would be appreciated.

  • Rudy Fischbach
    Rudy Fischbach 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    THANK YOU! This video has helped me figure out why I was skipping layers! Now my prints are much smoother! :)

  • michael abernathy
    michael abernathy 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    i'm somewhat new to 3d printing and know nothing about your model, but the play between gears is possibly a good thing.
    i used to build and race r/c cars, and this was a pretty common mistake from newer builders (and one i've made myself), having the pinion gear mashed right up into the spur gear with no play (that's the drive shaft gear, and the gear giving power to the gear box).
    have zero play between these would burn out speed controllers, as the motor strains itself to turn because the gears are binding, even if it doesn't feel like they are.
    unsure if this applies to a 3d printer, steppers may be more resilient than racer motors.unmodified printer.

  • James Laine
    James Laine 4 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    When I experienced this specific trouble-symptom, I used an IR thermometer and found out that my extrude motor driver was overheating, triggering its internal thermal protection until it cooled down enough to work again (until it overheated and repeated). Adjusting (lowering) the motor driver current solved this specific trouble-symptom for me. Looking at your controller board in the video at time 2:38, I see a lack of any cooling fan, so this could also be a contributing factor in your case.

    • david asadi
      david asadi 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      i had this problem too the stepper driver vref was too much with my drv8825

  • Ben Moorhouse
    Ben Moorhouse 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Legend! Hadn't thought about the extruder... no idea why not, but I didn't checked mine and whilst it was still pushing some filament through, it was a bit loose and so wasn't pushing enough through. I've stuck a washer in the tension spring for now and it's working, cheers for the inspiration though :)

  • xXTheBl4ckC4tXx
    xXTheBl4ckC4tXx 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I love my Ender 3, so cheap, when a problem like this would occur, I would not be too devasted and since I own 3 printers and brought 4 friends to also buy one, I would never be out of printers to print spare parts.
    Since I killed a fan in the past, I also bought spare fans now.

  • C0nfu23D - Ch4otic streaming
    C0nfu23D - Ch4otic streaming ปีที่แล้ว +75

    "it might take you 4hrs or longer to find a 5 minute solution" try being a programmer, spend 5 days to find a missing " ; " :D . Cool video, very informative!

    • joshy
      joshy 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @szopenek17 from my experience, python is very easy

    • Nom
      Nom 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @szopenek17 Uh, the terrible indenting. Worst language in terms of semantics.

    • C0nfu23D - Ch4otic streaming
      C0nfu23D - Ch4otic streaming 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @szopenek17 it's the main language I use for work , I know the pain :P

    • szopenek17
      szopenek17 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Try Python 😜

    • Tinhead426
      Tinhead426 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I share your pain.

  • Fritz Mulder
    Fritz Mulder 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I had almost the exact same problem and replaced the wade extruder with a titan. My printer is almost printing flawlessly now.

  • MrCipolenio
    MrCipolenio 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Had the same problem on a Prusa I3 MK2s. It was the idler bearing being stuck. I took it out, cleaned it and it was solved. Hope it helps.

    • Mr. Eiche
      Mr. Eiche ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Whats the idler bearing?

  • DiveSync
    DiveSync 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I've been working on my layer separation issue for a month now. Literally replaced everything.

  • ggg
    ggg 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you so much man! you are a smart and thorough guy. I have the exact same problem with a brand new Xvico 3X pioneer printer that I bought from ebay and I was thinking it has to do with the PLA material and returned the spool back to those guys. since this printer is still less than 30days. what do you recommend I should do? This is not an opensource firmware it uses STM32. and I thought their E motor uses metal gear. but from the third print it started to do a lot of layer skipping and on the 4th print of a large part it was like a bunch of wool check the video I posted on youtube and please help me think whether it is the the E motor. I contact the seller through ebay they are saying it is the nozzle but I highly doubt it is. th-cam.com/video/eEyR95zgIUI/w-d-xo.html

  • JLAW904
    JLAW904 2 ปีที่แล้ว +55

    By 5 minutes in I was waiting for the "I threw the whole unit in the trash and ordered a new printer. Problem solved!"

    • TheStansChannel
      TheStansChannel 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      pretty much did just kept the frame and replaced most everything else

  • George Leite
    George Leite 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great video. Made some "upgrades" on my Ender 3, and now I have this problem, been plugging away at it for a couple days. You are so right you can't get mad. I haven't tried e steps, so I will give that a try too. Thank you.

    • Levia Chan
      Levia Chan 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Oil up the nut and threaded rod and it will work

    • Blubberguy22
      Blubberguy22 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Did you end up figuring it out? I also have some issues with my Ender 3.

  • Jon jonsson
    Jon jonsson 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    * it still skips something as you got lines. The slicer and the model is also a possible cause as the cura is kinda shit compared to some slicers. Cura is great but hangs or have issues sometimes for several users if that is your slicer. The mechanical parts should give constant values, not sometimes if those were the case. My bet is rather the stepper drivers skiping steps, my cards require active cooling with a fan even if they can manage without.

  • Dana Olson
    Dana Olson 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I changed to the Bondtech dual drive and it was totally worth every penny. My single drive extruder would stall and shred filament like a rear wheel drive car in a snowstorm, getting stuck. The Bondtech is like having an AWD SUV. It just goes. I also went with a pancake motor, as geared drives don't need large step motors. Save the weight.

    • The 3D Print General
      The 3D Print General  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yup! That's exactly what my favorite setup currently is

  • Peter Ryaux-Larsen
    Peter Ryaux-Larsen 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    great video!
    Im currently having the same issue. except that i already have a direct drive. Monoprice Maker Select V2 (i3 clone).
    I had this issue in the past, and for me it was the PTFE guide tube which was damaged and slightly warped and would create friction, which would put enough strain on the filament that the drive gear would grind on the filament.
    1 month after the successful replacement a resolution to my problem, the issue has reappeared. Im suspecting its something to do with the PTFE or something else in that vicinity. Perhaps its time for a new and higher end extruder system.

  • kain0m
    kain0m 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I mean, the answer is obvious - skipped E steps. The only question is why is it skipping? Could be a seized bearing, could be an overly tight idler, overheating driver, or current set too low. I had this issue when I activated the TMC Diagnostic function in Marlin, it kept on lowering my E current randomly.

  • Paul Paulsen
    Paul Paulsen 4 ปีที่แล้ว +29

    the center bolt on the big gear seem to slip. you can clearly see the wear marks at 3:04.

    • deformedDoge 44
      deformedDoge 44 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Brian Wind Grøndahl he means the teeth are worn out

    • Brian Wind Grøndahl
      Brian Wind Grøndahl 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      i don`t se it?? he shifts the X axis a bit other than that i only se the gear problom!!

  • Jose Carlos Luque Castro
    Jose Carlos Luque Castro ปีที่แล้ว

    Very Useful!! Your channel is great man

  • Joseph Jaillet
    Joseph Jaillet 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks your video helped me diagnose my anet a8. After bowden e3d v6 upgrade my prints look just like yours. I increased spring tension in extruder to solve the problem.

  • ChrisX
    ChrisX 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I was sitting there fixing my printer for 4 days straight without stopping and at the end my belt was worn down and for some reason tightened to out of existance. I had about 3 more problems occur and a leaky nozzle, overheated motors and $70 lighter in my pocket :/

  • Richard Rhoads
    Richard Rhoads 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I had the same issue.. Turned out to be a break in one of the motor wires so when it would move far enough to one side it would separate the wire and then when it would move back it would touch again and work..

  • oxygen
    oxygen ปีที่แล้ว

    whoa, you have saved my life! your vid contains a ton of information that i haven't known before... thanks mate

  • mike94560
    mike94560 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    My first layer or 2 printed fine. Then I got a ball of string. Found a couple of things. I changed nozzle from brass to steel. The Bowden tube needed to be reset to properly touch the back of the shorter nozzle. Second the temperature needed to be hotter. I raised it 5C and that fixed the problems. Only took 2 days to figure this all out. But I practically overhauled the entire printer in the process. I wonder if that is something to account for? ie., steel vs brass nozzles. I know the thermal properties are different.

  • Giovanni Boi
    Giovanni Boi ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi! How did you solve layer problems at 08:51?

  • Hobby Magic
    Hobby Magic ปีที่แล้ว

    If you have more than one of the same printer you can save your self a lot of headache and TIME by just swapping out parts from a I known good working printer of the same. All this extra measuring and flashing stuff is too much extra work. I have 3 ender 3 and fairly new to 3d printing and have a few issues but all related to either a clog,
    poor fittings or wearing tubing issues by the filament. Mostly it's a clog.
    I recently have found out that certain types of filament when a spindle runs low the memory from the PLA
    filament is wound too tight and can in my case jammed up inside the tubing causing friction so I try not to take the spindles down too low on filament although I did change out to a different brand of PLA that was low and the issue i had went away since then I dont run the spindle all the way out away.
    Keep alot of extra parts on hand like fitting and nozzles. I always use supports and the prints come out great.

  • VictorianTimeTraveler
    VictorianTimeTraveler 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    When you need to print a part to fix your 3d printer, but your 3D printer needs a new part to work. Dammed Paradox
    Joking aside this is the problem I've been having.

  • zo0mpa
    zo0mpa 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I've got the EXACT same problem currently and also came to the same conclusion that it's most likely my extruder needs replacing... Now it's the agonising wait of 2-3 weeks for it to arrive from China! :-(

  • meucunt1
    meucunt1 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Easier to remove the nozzle, cut the filament flush at the exit, run the 100mm / 200mm, cut it flush and measure. No need for heat or big 3mm diameter red blobs screwing with the data.

    • MrRedstone
      MrRedstone 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      That won't work. 3D printers don't let you extrude cold. If the nozzle is not up to temperature, it refuses to extrude. This is to prevent damage to the filament, extruder motor and extruder gear, which would quickly chew up the filament and cause the motor to skip.

    • CJICantLie
      CJICantLie 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      This seems like the best approach to estep adjustment. Then the method in the video should be done for extrusion multiplier per filament type/brand. If we were to always set the firmware based on extrusion rate, which will be filament dependent, we will be flashing the firmware all the time, which is overkill.

    • The Backyard Engineer
      The Backyard Engineer 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      That won't alway work though - If the resistance of the filament path or the hot end is high enough, it could interfere with the measurements - and is an indication that you have another problem.

  • Kyle Borth
    Kyle Borth 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    You probably just needed to replace your extruder motor, those things do go bad once in a while. I had that issue with my printer recently.

  • Isaiah Henry
    Isaiah Henry ปีที่แล้ว

    i keep having a problem where the plastic snaps half way through a print... any ideas

  • nightmare in action
    nightmare in action 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I had a problem like this I figured out it was my slices because I tried printing one of my old gcode files and it worked like a charm but it took me like a week to find

  • Noah
    Noah ปีที่แล้ว

    My problem was that there was a small speck of dust on the z axis rod

  • Muneeb Azeem Shaheen
    Muneeb Azeem Shaheen 3 ปีที่แล้ว +23

    i had the same problem, then i tried switching the option (in cura) Z hop off, that was the problem. Now i get perfect quality prints.

    • Muneeb Azeem Shaheen
      Muneeb Azeem Shaheen ปีที่แล้ว

      @Jonathan Voshell Glad to help!

    • Jonathan Voshell
      Jonathan Voshell ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Wow, that worked. Thanks, the Z hop probably loses position or skips a step up.

    • Jack van Dongen
      Jack van Dongen ปีที่แล้ว

      Well, I do have some spare nozzles, I think im going to try that

    • Muneeb Azeem Shaheen
      Muneeb Azeem Shaheen ปีที่แล้ว

      @Jack van Dongen well, dont know wats wrong, try replacing the nozzle, maybe there are some particles inside it. Or maybe you pushed to hard the ptf tube inside de nozzle and it melted somehow. Those are some of the issues i had in the past.

    • Jack van Dongen
      Jack van Dongen ปีที่แล้ว

      I don't have z hop enabled, so it isnt the z hop

  • CaptainIronBat
    CaptainIronBat 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I am slightly disappointed. I have this problem on my ender 3. I also replaced my hot end which resolved a lot of the issues and my extruder. But I still have issues. My E steps are correct but something funky is still goin on.

  • Calvin-文森特
    Calvin-文森特 2 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    @2:38 'Loaded back up, and Boom...another failure '. LMAO....This is what I experience very often

  • ArcanePath360
    ArcanePath360 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    That must have been frustrating.
    My Anet A8 stopped extruding mid print when my hot end cooled down for no reason. I traced the problem to be faulty wiring, but everything I tried made it worse. replacing the wires didn't even work and now I get no voltage from the board on the hot end terminals when heating, just red lights. I figure the board is bricked.
    I figured it's time to get something new anyway so I've ordered a Geetech A10M dual extruder and hope that gives me as many years as the A8 has. Just sent back an Athorbot Brother Dual which looked like a bargain and good quality but turned out to be a horrible pile of junk.

    • 7F0X7
      7F0X7 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I'm having this issue and I am starting to suspect faulty wiring leading to the extruder or wiring in the extruder. My printer is only a month old (Prusa MK3S), so I'm going to have them fix it or return my money, this is a *NOT* a problem that a new user should just have to "deal with".

  • Steve Mc
    Steve Mc 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    When using Marlin set "E in MM3" to OFF and re-calibrate all your steppers.

    • reizhustenistdoof
      reizhustenistdoof ปีที่แล้ว

      @Steve Mc You are amazing, thanks a lot.
      That explains why my esteps number was so high. I disabled it now and recalibrated esteps. Now my e-steps value is in a normal rage again.
      And the first test-print looks okay as well.
      Thanks 👍

    • Steve Mc
      Steve Mc ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @reizhustenistdoof Its a feature of marlin firmware which interprets E move commands (G0 Ex or G1 Ex) as units of volume, mm3, instead of linear mm. When it enabled on gcode that is sliced in units of linear mm, it effectively divides the moves by area of the filament, which is 1/2.4, effectively 40% flow. It is poorly described in the menu, and tends to be enabled by accident either by user or at factory.

    • reizhustenistdoof
      reizhustenistdoof ปีที่แล้ว

      @Steve Mc thanks. But I mean why is not advised to usd volumetric E?

    • Steve Mc
      Steve Mc ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @reizhustenistdoof 1st I do a P.I.D @ 200 degrees C for PLA to make sure the temp is constant. Then make sure E in MM3 is off and recalibrate XYZ steps/mm. th-cam.com/video/h9Rdid-T-Gw/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/ZfqeTzc3NpM/w-d-xo.html

    • reizhustenistdoof
      reizhustenistdoof ปีที่แล้ว

      Can you elaborate a bit on this?
      I have this feature turned on and I am wondering if I should turn it off.
      My prints are okay-ish at the moment, but sometimes I have some problems.

  • Matt Brown
    Matt Brown 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    It doesn't seem like you diagnosed anything. You just threw parts at the problem. That being said, thank you for documenting your journey. If everyone did this (myself included) 3d printing would be a lot more accessible.

  • macelius
    macelius 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Solution 1: throw money at it
    Solution 2: throw more money at it
    Solution 3: throw bigger money at it
    The z-banding is terrible! Hope you've resolved that since this video, if not, print yourself some lead-screw isolators.

  • James Laine
    James Laine 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    it looks like you almost spent more on trial-and-error replacement of parts, than if you'd have just bought a new printer (Ender 3 comes to mind).

    • Gael Lafond
      Gael Lafond 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      3D printing is a hobby. Diagnosis and fixing is part of it. If you are not willing to spend some time on your printer, this hobby might not be for you

    ROLAND MINE 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Whenever I insert my usb into my printer my 3D file shows up and starts building. I come back when it says it’s finished only to find a big block of wasted resin. Any idea how to fix this I think it might be a usb issue?

  • Razzo
    Razzo 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    thank the 3dprinting gods i found u and this video spent over 8hrs messing with my cr10mini ready to throw it away lol thanks my dude

  • nep407
    nep407 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Выстрелил себе в ногу этими апгрейдами и в итоге купил нормальный экструдер. А сопла стоят по 20 руб, не нужно учить зрителей анонизму с их прогревом. По первым кадрам сразу видно было причину недоэкструзии. И судя по последним кадрам результата - не все проблемы решены, стенки не ровные.

  • Jon jonsson
    Jon jonsson 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Skip the gear things, the motor doesent need that for extrusion. I got mine with half a meter of ptfe tubing in between and no slip, and no additional gears. A dorect deive should be even stronger

  • Nightcore Fusion
    Nightcore Fusion 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Oh... so I didn't have to scrap my printer for parts...
    Oh well, new one's on its way.
    Note. I did everything short of replacing parts as I didn't have the money to do that.
    Don't know why I didn't think of checking my e-steps. Oh well.
    Spent 48 hours trying to get it working through adjusting parts and settings and no luck.
    Eventually the temperature sensor in the heated bed died and I just gave up.
    Took it apart, sold what was in good enough condition to make money and then ordered a new printer.
    'bout time I got rid of that Anet A8 anyway. 6 months was more than enough for me to get a hang of 3D printing.
    Second note.
    Problems started around the time I printed for 2 weeks straight. (Well, slight gaps between to remove parts and start next print.)
    The bowden extruder seemed fine and I already had it calibrated but I guess something had changed. Maybe the gears wore down a bit. I don't know.
    And just so you know, when it was working, with how many optimisations I'd done to it with software and replacement hardware, it really worked!
    Almost flawless prints with a 0.25 nozzle (35mm/s) and basically perfect prints with a 0.4 (65mm/s)
    Even got workable 0.8 prints. (55mm/s) Slower than I'd like but still saved a decent amount of time for drafting parts or printing larger structural ones.

    REDES GYMA 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    the problem was filament was getting at times sort of stuck in the teflon tube, WD40 fixes it clen,

    • Falcon
      Falcon 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      REDES GYMA same problem here, i was able to fix it by widening the opening

  • canszzz
    canszzz 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    these problems started when i switched to titan extruder. I think there is something wrong with me

  • Unsub223
    Unsub223 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Have you ever had your printer be working fine and then halfway through print just stop at one point create a glob and not move again ? I’m brand new to printing

    • The 3D Print General
      The 3D Print General  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      This sounds like a corrupted gcode. Would happen to me when I would move the file over to print before it was technically done slicing/saving.
      Maybe try reslicing/saving?

  • Marc Torras
    Marc Torras ปีที่แล้ว

    ¿The solution was replace the extruder?

  • Swami Human
    Swami Human 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Another great vid. Thx.

  • Wello789
    Wello789 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    why do the prints still look so bad ? How do your prints look now ? My prints currently look a lot like yours (after the "repair"). I am just curious if you now print clean prints.

    • NeoandGeo
      NeoandGeo 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Looks like the "Salmon Skin" issue that is most prevalent on DRV8825 drivers.

  • HobbyRob
    HobbyRob 4 ปีที่แล้ว +35

    it is a good video BUT!
    you have not solved the problem, you worked around it!
    otherwise I can not name it.
    I would have preferred to have solved the problem with all the same parts -
    (with the originaile parts)
    friendly greetings from The Netherlands!

    • Officer_Baitlyn
      Officer_Baitlyn 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      id say fixed rather than solved yeah

    • ArcanePath360
      ArcanePath360 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @mathskzha I actually think I found the solution, my frame was loose. I'm not sure I ever tightened up the screws properly on the bottom when I assembled it and maybe they worked loose as there was noticeable wobble. I've also ordered a new nozzle as I'm sure it's worn out by now.

    • mathskzha
      mathskzha 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      It sounds like it was just caused by wear in the extruder. That might not be something that can be fixed with throwing the money of replacing it (tho new printed parts probably would have done it too)

    • ArcanePath360
      ArcanePath360 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I was going to comment this myself. This is the brute force method of fixing.... keep throwing money at it until it goes away or you've replaced the whole printer. I'm having layer issues at the moment and would like to know why. Mine is more of a noticeable layer every 5mm up the print and it grinds as if it's over extruding, as if the wheels on the vertical frame have flat spots or something. It's something so tiny it's impossible to eyeball but noticeable on fine 0.1mm prints

  • Charles Baldassano
    Charles Baldassano 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Having the exact same problem

  • Elijah
    Elijah 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Cool, thanks!

  • roadstar499
    roadstar499 ปีที่แล้ว

    i have fixed over 20 issues over past year and some took me a while...But i know one covers my current issue ...my ender 5 just stops printing for no reason... prints were perfect for weeks. i go check today and 2 hours into a print it stopped moving ...nozzle was cold yet screen said 225 ...again machine is still running and nozzle is welded to top of print... what is the issue it happened twice in a row stopped at 10 hours into print first time...is my mother board malfuctioning? thanks

  • nightmare in action
    nightmare in action 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    do you only have 1 3d printer ? I have a anet a8 and a cube pro duo and a tarantula i3 coming In the next 3 days it helps with problems like this when a 3d printed part breaks and now you cant print a remplacement because your printer doesnt work

  • John Stewart
    John Stewart 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I had the same problem. I turned the fan down to 80%, and the problem went away.

    • John Stewart
      John Stewart ปีที่แล้ว

      @Yahir T. I like the Sovol SV01...it mates well with the 4-color Mosaic

    • Yahir T.
      Yahir T. ปีที่แล้ว

      what 3d printer do u use??

  • Die Blikstem
    Die Blikstem 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Ok I have the same problem with the Titan extruder!? so changing the extruder again will probably not help. I picked up this problem while running direct drive. Changed to Titan and the problem went away for a while then it returned. I found when printing infill between two narrow perimeters the pressure for some reason is to high for smooth feeding and the feeding gear grinds in the filament some time after a retracing occurred the gear gets grip of the filament and start feeding again. by that time part of the current layer have not been extruded successfully. Have not been able to solve this yet.

    • The 3D Print General
      The 3D Print General  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      hmm, properly diagnosing without seeing the machine is difficult, but did you try some of the maintenance mentioned in my most recent video? That can at least make sure it is not a basic hardware issue.
      You could be running your infill at too high a speed if the pressure is increased during those sections of your print. Perhaps try running the exact same print at 50-75% speed to see if the problem decreases (or is at least easier to diagnose)

  • Formicaria
    Formicaria 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    In My Experience My Layer Skips Down To My Hot End Not Tight On My Ender 2

  • Evert van Ingen
    Evert van Ingen 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    6:00 Analog Interlacing effect?
    In this modern age?

  • My3dviews
    My3dviews 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Would have been easier just to buy a new printer. 😁

  • enrique palero
    enrique palero 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    hello friend my prints have a lot of lines like de ones in 8:50 and i tried everything, could you please tell me how you fixed that please?

    • Alex Shu
      Alex Shu 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      you have some play in x or y or both, check belts, belt tension, roler / bearing wear or play.

  • Stephen Gill
    Stephen Gill ปีที่แล้ว

    3D Printers are like CNC machines. The cheap CNC machines like HAAS and Okuma are the worst. They vibrate and cause tool wear. Nothing like a DMG/MORI. You need to spend someone else's money by forming an LLC and let the IRS finance the cost. It just turns out to be a waste of time, resources, etc... Not very efficient.

  • Alex Coker
    Alex Coker 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi I've got your book but I have a problem I can't find the answer. My prints are fine apart from the the last finishing layers, the filament seems to be peeling away randomly as the the tip moves across, the rest of the print is perfect any ideas cheers Alex

    • Alex Coker
      Alex Coker 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @The 3D Print General cheers I've sent you a few pictures

    • The 3D Print General
      The 3D Print General  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Please email me with any photos you may have at Sean@3DPrintGeneral.com
      I'll try to diagnose as best I can!

  • NoMore BSplease
    NoMore BSplease 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    0:23 Ok I'm making a guess it the extruder spring tension.

    AMIT SRIVASTAVA 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    The final print is not good enough... .. Looks over extrusion is still there ...

  • Murat Pisat
    Murat Pisat 4 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I have exact same problem in my brand new ender 3 printer. it uses this extruder any advice?

    • Cristaliana Ivor
      Cristaliana Ivor 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Andrej Dukic yeah, Idk what I did but that comment was over a year ago and I don't have problems anymore lol.
      I also changed the extruder for the aluminum one and this did introduce other problems because the spring of it was too strong. So I switched it for the old one. If it looses strength, idk what I will do, maybe put in some washers, or clip off a little bit of the too strong spring.

    • Andrej Dukic
      Andrej Dukic 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @Cristaliana Ivor Might be a long shot but there's a one second solution that worked for me anyway. Take a hex key and just slightly unscrew the screw holding the bearing that the spring pushes into the filament to create the necessary friction. It was screwed on too tight in the factory.
      I spent days on this and if I had just found it sooner I could've saved myself so much time.

    • Chase Kubesh
      Chase Kubesh 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It’s literally just underextrusion. Up your heat, use a higher flow rate, replace your nozzle
      Edit: or make/buy a spool holder, so the filament isn’t going in all sorts of directions just to enter the machine

    • Altirix
      Altirix 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      yeah i had this issue, seems to be gone since i got a new nozzle, mine ended up clogging entierly after a few prints so somethings up with that.

    • Cristaliana Ivor
      Cristaliana Ivor 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      My Ender 3 is trolling me right now, 2. After a whole month of happy printing I always get that strange unconsistent layer separation that makes my prints crumble away -.- and I dont really have time to handle this right now. Too much stress at university...

  • Haim Bilia
    Haim Bilia 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    if everything else fails. throw money at the problem.

  • roadstar499
    roadstar499 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    any idea why a printer would stop printing in the middle of a print??? print was fine up until it just stopped moving...machine did not shut off,nozzle temp and bed temp stayed same...could not resume of change settings... i had to power off and start a new print...than as like with the other it just stopped again 10 mins into the print.... i have fixed dozens of issues on 3d printers,but this issue is something i don't understand...PS i have printed this file many times with no issues... please help... thanks

    • Co!in3d
      Co!in3d 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Make sure you can go up and down on the z axis

  • iiGetFaded
    iiGetFaded ปีที่แล้ว

    Other videos said to send the command g1 e100 f100 (edit: the other tutorial on teaching tech was g1 e100 f50 and didn’t specify filament size ) ? They did not specify what filament I was using . The printer I use is the ender 3 . Which command should I send for 1.75 filament ?

    • The 3D Print General
      The 3D Print General  ปีที่แล้ว

      The f just stands for the speed. We run 2.85mm a bit slower than 1.75 because more material is being pushed out per mm length material. So we reduce the speed when testing e-steps just to be accurate.
      A speed of 40-50mm/s is good for testing e-steps on 1.75mm filament, so you can have that f set anywhere in there and be safe. You can do 100mm/s as well, I just like to run slower when testing e-steps as to be as accurate as possible

  • rescuebox7
    rescuebox7 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    Come man. Don't take the route of throwing parts at it till fixed.

    • PIXLHeart
      PIXLHeart 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Well, show us a better way ^^
      he speculated and tried to fix it, theres nothing wrong with that

  • Sky_fpv
    Sky_fpv 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I need your help with a anet a8 it printed perfect then I updated from the original firmware to the marlin 2 because I wanted a bed leveling sensor now it barley will print if it even prints what do I do please help

  • SpyChar
    SpyChar 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have the titan and still the same problem

  • rob
    rob 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    mines doing the opposite, not lifting enough for the next layer../ so the nozzle is ramming the print

    • Brandon Brown
      Brandon Brown ปีที่แล้ว

      Ever figure it out? Mine is doing this now.

  • TerribleAtmosphere
    TerribleAtmosphere 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    5 hours pfft five days for me to find out that I need to lower my jerk and acceleration

  • kei214
    kei214 ปีที่แล้ว

    You might wanna cover your address on packages before filming it.

    • kei214
      kei214 ปีที่แล้ว

      @The 3D Print General cool, I would think you are living in TX now with Ron Paul and pew pew printing and stuff.

    • The 3D Print General
      The 3D Print General  ปีที่แล้ว

      Luckily I've moved a couple times since then haha. But yea being a lot more careful now

  • Hugo AC Herrera
    Hugo AC Herrera 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Why if I only have gaps in the right side of the printer? 🤔

    • monoceroxbeast
      monoceroxbeast 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      May need to re-level the bed...

    • OSD
      OSD 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hch hch sameeeeeeee

  • Blitz54
    Blitz54 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Been watching your vids a while now. But first time seeing your face. I did NOT expect you to actually have a mustache like in your profile!

  • Jonathan Voshell
    Jonathan Voshell ปีที่แล้ว

    skip to 5:40 for a possible answer, not a garantee though.

  • Chloe Mcholoe
    Chloe Mcholoe 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    god I just freaking wish printers were more reliable.

  • Jiří Valtr
    Jiří Valtr ปีที่แล้ว

    So all you did was just calibrating E steps?
    Trying to sum up 11 min video into one sentence.

  • Albert Guo
    Albert Guo 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    let me guess: clogged nozzle

    • Albert Guo
      Albert Guo 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      oh well nope

  • Dwarfgrinder
    Dwarfgrinder 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I don't get it. @ 8:46 they look like crap. I've been trying to fix something similar to the wall problem that you show at 8:46

    • Adrián
      Adrián ปีที่แล้ว

      @Junaish Backer What printer do you have? Mine it's a custom reprap with a MK8 chinese extruder.

    • Adrián
      Adrián ปีที่แล้ว

      I have the exact same issue, did you fix it?

  • Rihsyan Adam Riansyah
    Rihsyan Adam Riansyah ปีที่แล้ว

    my extruder is 7mm off and never have any problem

  • Joao Gabriel
    Joao Gabriel 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    How do i change my e steps on the anet a8? I cant use marlin in it.

    • The 3D Print General
      The 3D Print General  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Joao Gabriel Lol I'll take the virtual hug. Glad I could help!
      That isn't exactly a permanent fix, since you can be more precise with actually changing E-Steps, but it should get the job done.

    • Joao Gabriel
      Joao Gabriel 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      The 3D Print General Thank you. The increasing the flow did the trick. If could hug you right now i would.

    • Joao Gabriel
      Joao Gabriel 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      The 3D Print General ok thanks.

    • The 3D Print General
      The 3D Print General  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I don't have an Anet, but you can send G-code command through repetier, or worst case, just change the flow % on your slicer

  • Marvin Huth
    Marvin Huth 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    your hobbed gear was stripped......well, mine was.....next time, i go to youtube, first. but the rest of the printer is now much improved.....lol

  • U.S Bricks
    U.S Bricks ปีที่แล้ว

    Can someone sum this video up for me i couldnt follow it

  • Nils Kay
    Nils Kay 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    you did not fix your unknown error... you just switched the hole hotend.. not knowing what the real problem is...

  • RuloPlay
    RuloPlay 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    so the problem was the extruder itself?

    • wt2009
      wt2009 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes. The Gears needed to be replaced or at least be recalibrated

  • L R
    L R 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    New to 3d printer and didn’t understand a word of what your talking about

  • Dawesomegaming
    Dawesomegaming 4 ปีที่แล้ว


  • spudnick1uk
    spudnick1uk 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    cant believe he didn't do the E steps check before buying new parts, anyway as 3d printer goes though 1000's of hours of work the motors will change their steps, so just adjusting the E steps should sort out the issue, i had same issue but only spent an hour to figure out and now up and running good again, Jeewhiz i can't for the hell understand how it took you four weeks to solve. maybe it not just the printer is broken!! Rolf