If you're after a good rider, this is a perfect start, a nice light steel frame that fits you well. My suggestion on the aesthetics would be to start by giving it a good clean and a WD-40 wipe down, maybe refresh the decals. Make sure to blast some preservative, "framesaver" or Boeshield inside the tubes, the bottom of the seat tube and the first few inches of the chainstays where they join the bottom bracket seem to be the most vulnerable. The Retrobike UK forum has a catalog archive which might help you narrow down the model, and there are tons of Kona nuts there who are tremendously knowledgable. The XT thumbshifters will index over either a 7 or 8 speed cassette and are a personal favourite. It looks like someone truly loved that bike in the past, the King headset and Ti bars are choice upgrades.
I go 2 X.with an 11x42 in the rear along with a 46 /30 in the front. Keep the shifters,( if they're friction) handlebar rd, fd, Then all you have add is a chain and 9 speed cassette Geta better saddle though at least this is what I'd do
@@tmayberry7559 good plan, although switching to 2x seems like more work than it’s worth. A 9 speed cassette with more range would work great for either 3x or 1x. That saddle is gone for sure. It’s terrible, and the seatpost it’s long enough for me so it’s a goner as well
In my opinion. Switching to 1X would limit your choices. Especially in lower gears if you go too small on the front. I'm told you would spin out at some point. 2X 46/30 paired with any 11x 32,34,36,40 or 42 would give you a greater range better than 1:1. I run a biopace 50/40 with an 11x36 plenty of range😁 but to each his own KEEP the handlebars their ti 😁
@@tmayberry7559 you are certainly correct. Spinning out is probably a greater risk than me not having enough climbing gear. Gear inch calculators are a good way to compare an existing setup to a planned setup. I’ll spend some time doing the math but it’s always a gamble. I may hold onto the handlebar but I’m looking for comfort on this build!
I understand. You want simplicity. I have found that the best front ring for me if I were using 1x is between 38-50. I wouldn't go any lower than 36. Again this is just from my experiences since I have N+1
@@tmayberry7559 thanks man! That has been my experience on my grav/cross bike too. It’s currently setup with a 38t 1x and it’s pretty good for #partypace riding
@@soap5393 measuring along the seatpost tube - center of the bb to the center of the top tube. I personally think top tube length and head tube are more important but that’s how they’re measured.
@@BicyclesandBurnouts Thanks much for that information! Best I can tell, mine is about 17.5" from the center of the top rail to the center of where the cranks bolt in.
If you're after a good rider, this is a perfect start, a nice light steel frame that fits you well. My suggestion on the aesthetics would be to start by giving it a good clean and a WD-40 wipe down, maybe refresh the decals. Make sure to blast some preservative, "framesaver" or Boeshield inside the tubes, the bottom of the seat tube and the first few inches of the chainstays where they join the bottom bracket seem to be the most vulnerable. The Retrobike UK forum has a catalog archive which might help you narrow down the model, and there are tons of Kona nuts there who are tremendously knowledgable. The XT thumbshifters will index over either a 7 or 8 speed cassette and are a personal favourite. It looks like someone truly loved that bike in the past, the King headset and Ti bars are choice upgrades.
I'd go new tires, velo orange klunker bars, kool stop brake pads and a 1x setup
That would be a solid setup. I’d love to use as many of the existing parts and possible and that build would check the box.
I go 2 X.with an 11x42 in the rear along with a 46 /30 in the front. Keep the shifters,( if they're friction) handlebar rd, fd,
Then all you have add is a chain and 9 speed cassette
Geta better saddle though at least this is what I'd do
@@tmayberry7559 good plan, although switching to 2x seems like more work than it’s worth. A 9 speed cassette with more range would work great for either 3x or 1x.
That saddle is gone for sure. It’s terrible, and the seatpost it’s long enough for me so it’s a goner as well
In my opinion. Switching to 1X would limit your choices. Especially in lower gears if you go too small on the front. I'm told you would spin out at some point.
2X 46/30 paired with any 11x 32,34,36,40 or 42 would give you a greater range better than 1:1.
I run a biopace 50/40 with an 11x36 plenty of range😁 but to each his own KEEP the handlebars their ti 😁
@@tmayberry7559 you are certainly correct. Spinning out is probably a greater risk than me not having enough climbing gear. Gear inch calculators are a good way to compare an existing setup to a planned setup. I’ll spend some time doing the math but it’s always a gamble.
I may hold onto the handlebar but I’m looking for comfort on this build!
I understand. You want simplicity.
I have found that the best front ring for me if I were using 1x is between 38-50. I wouldn't go any lower than 36. Again this is just from my experiences since I have N+1
@@tmayberry7559 thanks man! That has been my experience on my grav/cross bike too. It’s currently setup with a 38t 1x and it’s pretty good for #partypace riding
Problem with finding a bigger frame size than 18“ or 19“ is the same here in Germany.
@@Londinius I suppose it makes sense if you consider average heights but it’s so frustrating to see the perfect rig that’s waaaaay short
Crank arms look real long. I’m curious what size says on the inside of them.
@@XCRiders they’re 175. Pretty typical for this size frame. I think they look long because they’re so thin
RE 01:20 - what is an 18" frame? What dimension does that measure?
@@soap5393 measuring along the seatpost tube - center of the bb to the center of the top tube. I personally think top tube length and head tube are more important but that’s how they’re measured.
@@BicyclesandBurnouts Thanks much for that information! Best I can tell, mine is about 17.5" from the center of the top rail to the center of where the cranks bolt in.