It’s not a finger vs thumb thing. It’s about separating focus control away from the shutter button. Both on one button is simpler, separate gives more control for instances when you don’t want to refocus every time you take a shot.
but you prettty much want to refocus every time you press the shutter release. if you move a centimeter back or forth your plane of focus changes and ends up out of focus subject. what I found quite useful for myself is to set ALE button to swish from single to continuous focus.. specially for me mostly shooting birds. once bird is siting I want to shoot as many as shots I can with lots of focus attempts so I have at least one tack sharp bird eye in focus. when the bird takes off, ill press and hold ALE to switch to contentious focus and track the bird. this works fine for me.
max factor That’s true in some circumstances but doesn’t apply in many shooting situations I am involved in. If refocusing every shot is important for how you shoot, by all means go with it. This video spent a lot of time talking about everything except why people actually use back button focusing, separation of control.
Agreed Barry. If you have properly focused on your intended subject AND have chosen the correct aperture for your desired DOF, there is no reason to refocus every time you press the shutter. If you are working with a wide open lens and your DOF is only a few centimeters, I would think that a steady hand is far more important than the focus method you use. Shutter release or back button focus will not make any difference if you are not finding a way to keep the camera/lens steady. I am not arguing for, or against, any focusing method. Personally, I have been using back button focus for so long now that I have forgotten about the other method. To each his/her own...
To each his own I suppose but I cannot imagine going back to shutter button focus. For me, BBF works a lot better. Better still is learning to focus manually. I shoot only landscapes and I rarely find autofocus gets the sharpness right where I want it. I may use AF to get close but I always zoom into 100% in live view and take control of the decision on where the true point of focus is. My opinion.
My images improved dramatically when I started focusing manually on live view zoomed in. I saw a video by Dave Morrow that enticed me to try it. AF is great for moving subjects but for landscapes, I don't think you can beat manual focus.
@@martinconrad9260 I prefer manual lenses to be honest.. My favourites are 24mm f/2.8 Ai, 35mm f/2 Ai, 50mm f/2 Ais, 35-70mm f/3.5 Ais, 105mm f/2.5 Ai, 70-200mm f/4 Ais.. Amazing lenses, I reckon, professional quality at the time and a fraction of the cost of AF-S glass..
When I was looking for my second lens in addition to the 18-55, I cheaped out and bought a Nikon 70-300 that is manual focus only on my camera...so...yeah! Manual focus is fun, especially when you are trying to shoot birds or helicopters and stuff like that! Granted, my sharp-to-completely-unusable ratio is abysmally low when shooting subjects like that, but it has surprisingly gotten better!
Once I learned about back-button focusing, I tried it and never switched back. I find it incredibly convenient. I don’t even think about locked or continuous focus; a press or release of my thumb does whatever I need intuitively without thought. And I personally like how I can concentrate on my exposure without refocusing; especially useful for focus/recompose technique.
Within a month of getting my first DSLR I set it up to back button focus and have been using it since on all my cameras, both video and stills. It works for ME. The real question here is, how many thousand times do you think people will have to be told that the only answer to questions like this is, what works for THEM? 🙂
Hi Mike, I have tried back button focus but never really got used to it, I found it a little more awkward but it may be that I am so accustomed to half pressing my shutter that this method has become automatic for me, glad to hear that you seem to feel the same way, cheers buddy Derek.
Ive been using back button for a few years now and it has become second nature. It works very well when composing a photo with the subject off centre, in other words, focusing on the subject then recomposing the shot. As a lot of you will know, not all cameras have focal points out to the edges.
I’ve been using back button focus for a number of years - I like keeping focus and exposure separate. I like it especially in the situation you were in where I’m isolating the subject from the background - lock the focus first, then I can recompose if necessary and not worry about accidentally refocusing on the background.
Back button for me and has been so for a long while now... Faster to focus on moving things, and also when you let go it stays locked on what it was last focused on forever, without tiring your fingers out holding the button half pressed... I won't change back that's for sure... Good Vid Mike, thanks...
I used this feature last night at a concert. The camera was focus hunting in the low light on subjects that didn’t move much out of the plane of focus. My choices were either have the camera redundantly and slowly focus each time, killing any chance of getting what I wanted when I wanted, or fixing it with bbaf. I can cite other useful scenarios, none of which resemble Mike’s tame example (I wouldn’t have used it there, either.)
Hi @The Next Hobby. We all have our preferred way of working. Not saying BBF doesn't work or you shouldn't use it, I'm saying everyone shoud see what works best for them and not just do it because someone else does. Personally I don't like it but that's just me. Have a question for you though. How would activating focus with back button overcome lack of contrast in the subject matter that made it hunt? ... MIKE
My apologies for the snark. And Sorry, I should have clarified that what It allowed me to do is pre-focus. The lack of contrast made it far slower, but it eventually did get there. I waited until the singer or guitarist moved back into the plane of focus. Or at least I hope so. I was forced to shoot 4-5 stops underexposed to maintain a sane shutter speed while using ƒ1.8 on my 50mm, so there likely was zero effective depth of field for anything I pre-focused on. When I get that roll developed I'll find out! The Tri-X results may be so contrast-blocky that clear focus is the least of my worries. But I learned that my next digital camera needs to see in the dark for both focusing and exposure without missing a beat (so to speak.) Until I can afford that, next time I'll backtrack to my AE-1 Program since that's easier to manual focus than my Elans are. (EOS 50 or 30 where you are) Starting with Tmax 3200 or Delta 3200 would have been a better idea, also.
For my photography, mainly wildlife, I do use BBF and find it really works. However, when I'm shooting landscapes or something which is static and for which I use a remote cable release I don't use it. As you say, use what works for you. PS Love the way you told us your opinion about it at the end and that you still have the capacity to surprise me! Cracking video and you surely must be one of the best teachers around. Thank you.
Without BBF you have 3 features to control focusing (I'm a Canon user, so forgive me if the features are different in your non-Canon camera): - AF/MF switch on your lens; - AF mode setting im menu (One Shot / AI Focus / AI Servo) - AF activation by half-press of the shutter button. Sometimes you have no time to operate the 3 features. With BBF you have it all under your thumb. You can: - Shoot with or without AF (no need to switch to MF - newer lenses even allow to turn the focus ring without switching to MF first); - Focus and recompose the frame as in the One Shot mode or focus continuously as in the AI Servo mode; - Focus anytime you want as with the shutter button half-press.
HI @eravpl - I want to make a follow up Back Button vs Front Button vid with a pro colleague and see if they can convince me. Problem is none of my pro buddies around here shoot back button! Got a couple who do, but they live a long way away sadly. Still going to do it when i finsd someone though. Think it'll be fun... MIKE :-)
@@MikeBrowne I have started using BBF just a few months ago, after I have found some videos about it on TH-cam. They warned that it can be tricky to change your ways but it's worthy to try it yourself. So i did and a few times I was confused that my AF does not work as I half-press the shutter button as usual. But after that transition phase I don't need any pro buddies to convince me that I like it. Of course I still need them to learn more tricks. BBF is the most useful when you have a fast moving object on far background, e.g. a bird or a plane flying. It happens to me to shoot them often. Before BBF my AF used to loose my object when I let it go off the focusing point. With BBF it's less frequent because I can stop focusing when the object is unstable in my viewfinder. However I still can shoot it keeping my previous focus distance. In the static situation as in your film the BBF shows no advantages because you have as much time as you need to focus. You could even use manual focus or even a broken lens with fixed focus - you would have plenty of time to find the correct distance to your object. BBF is a trick for dynamic shooting where you have no time to switch Single/Continuous mode etc.
It took me a nearly a month or so to get used to it, but now I can't imagine ever going back to normal shutter operations. I like being able to separate focus and exposure. Plus if I am on a tripod, I only need to worry about the focus once, then the exposure will sort itself out with each press of the shutter button. It also provides hours of entertainment handing my camera to people and watching them trying to figure out why they can't focus it.
It suited me right from the start.. Setting up the camera, out of the box, it was logical to separate focus and exposure lock.. For the most past.. Sometimes, I don't need it and I'll just use the shutter button, I have a bank set for that too.. The luxury of digital 😀
Mike, I have gone to back-button focusing to give the shutter one function only: control the shutter. For landscape photography I use the live-mode focusing almost exclusively.
For landscape photography, it's not an issue as I use manual focus and peaking to know exactly which parts of the image are sharpest. However, for everything else I certainly use the back button. The shutter release on my Fujifilm X-H1 is so touch-sensitive that if it weren't for BBF, I'd keep taking shots when I didn't intend to and would have to quickly reacquire focus. By keeping the functions separate, I don't have to worry about this and (when in continuous mode) enjoy a much higher hit rate.
Eyes will use back button focusing but what I've come across on the odd time is forgetting to back button focus when I'm trying to catch a quick shot so my point is if you do set up back button focusing you have to remember because it's not automatic so I switched around to whatever's comfortable and whatever the subject will be
I am glad you always say it is up to you and what you like. Everyone is different and we have different likes and dislikes, you make the decision the most honest thing anyone can say to you or me or anyone else Thanks Mike.
I'm in two minds myself but bbs works brilliantly for landscapes, because once the shot is set up, you don't have to go messing around with other settings on the lens/camera etc to retain the focus 👍
I use a Panasonic G7. Set to Manual Focus, the Back Button is set to Auto Focus. A single press will set focus, which will then stay at that focus, even if the composition is altered. Thus - centre the main subject, press the AF Back Button, then compose and shoot. Seems to work (so far).
I switched to bbf a few months ago and once I had gotten used to using it, found it much better, but like you say it is a personal preference. Always enjoy your vlogs and find them very informative. Thanks
If anyone used cameras before the digital age you will remember we never used to focus and shoot from the one button anyhow. You rotated the focus ring til the prism (canon etc) lined up or became sharp and then pressed the shoot button. This is more in line with bbf shooting. It really comes into its own when recomposing a shot, If you only have the default all in one shooting then your metering and focus will be done at the same instant. BBF means you can focus, move the camera to the side AND get a new metering if you so wish without having it refocus. But each to their own of course, I recommend trying it.
When I first started using back button focusing I found it awkward and then as I got use to using it I found it very useful. It is great for locking focus, especially on someones eye and then recomposing the image and then when you push the shutter button to taking the picture the camera dosn't refocus. I will never go back to focusing with the shutter button, but that's just me, each to there own 📷 Oh, almost forgot to mention, nice bike Mike 🏍
phynx2006 if u focus on someone’s eye with shutter button and when recomposing keep holding the shutter button partial down until your done recomposing then press shutter button all way down to take photo, camera will not re-focus.
Back button focus in continuous mode, reframe and press the normal top shutter button only (take your finger of the back button) and you will not have to refocus or lose focus. It's a fast way of reframing. ( You need to disable the top shutter button from focusing, it's just there to take the photograph. It's great. Also I can use one of my front buttons (front button focus) to have a different focus mode to the back, e.g group focus for the back and spot focus for the front. Again much faster way to change your focus mode. Love it. Love photography.
One of the things I love about my olympus OMD EM5 MII is that I have the hard back switch set to standard auto-focus in position 1, and back-button focus in position 2 (as well as focus peeking if I touch the manual focus dial). Best of both worlds and super easy to switch without digging through menus. I use them both depending on the shot, lens choice and available light. Really hard to auto focus in the dark for long exposures, so I use a led torch to light up my subject back-button focus then take the shot without the torch.
BB focus + continuous mode all the way after just a couple of weeks when I got into photography. Very quickly I started seeing difficulties with focus changes due to position and having the shutter control + AE and AF on same button. When Id benefit from recomposing for instance. Sure there's the AE lock function, but never got on with it since you have to continuously depress the button for the duration. Even using it with a 2 stage press to switch on/off AE lock, sometimes I'd forget. So I didn't find it simple and immediate. Very quickly I preferred using AF lock, or Back button focus, and adding continuous focus. Allows to set focus when I want which allows pre-setting focus, orfocus traps. And above all, its simple! The downside, its when others use your camera and must remember telling them..
Thanks Mike, I have just started playing with back button focusing after being shown it. I can see that their is a benefit for Landscapes (esp using filters) as the focus is locked regardless of what you do with the shutter button (though manual focus controls would do the same). I am yet to be convinced for other shooting - tried tracking planes and birds flying over head or nearby and using a finger and thumb on different parts of the camera is not a comfortable thing.
Hi Jan. It depends how you have your camera set up. I have metering all the time so it doesn't lock from the shutter button. But I have the back button set as an exposure lock in case I want to lock and exposure... MIKE
Several years ago after learning about back button focusing, I tried it and stayed with it. I was using a camera with three focusing points, so it helped in locking focus and recomposing. Also when I was in the yard and focusing on a stationary subject and one of our cats or dogs came into view I did not need to go into the menu to witch to CAF. Just press and hold the AEL/AFL button and shoot.
It’s the Marmite of topics - you either love it or hate it! As always Mike a great video and for me well timed as I have just this week set my camera up for bbf and so far so good for me!
I use it sometimes, mostly to separate focus from the shutter button. It seems to work best when I have enough depth of field for my subject such as a landscape. When focusing on someone’s eye for a portrait, I don’t use it.
Most of my photography has been learned through this channel and the 7 Building Blocks of Photography, which could be why I rarely use BBF. Never found it to be of much use to me
Hi Mike. Thanks for your videos. Am I missing something? I've watched a few videos on BB focusing and have seen no one mention the benefit of separating your focus and exposure buttons. I'll compose, lock my focus, expose on what I wish to in the frame, return to my composition and shoot. So what am I missing? Is there a way to do this without using BB focusing? This, to me is far more benefit than being able to switch quickly between focus lock and continuous.
bbf has been very helpful for years. it takes a little practice, but will give you more control in the end. back in the days, i switched to bbf since i disliked the annoying automatic refocussing (AAR!) before each shot.
Mike I must say that you are so right on saying there's not one configuration for everybody we are all individuals everybody has their own unique Style and you learn as you go like you said to what's comfortable to you
As someone who mainly photographs wildlife I've found back button focusing so much easier. It's possible that the reason why you're not as bothered about it is because your shots are less time-sensitive than in wildlife photography where you do not have as much time to line up shots, get it focused in the right spot, and take the picture. The camera is also much easier to grip in this position if you are handholding a massive telephoto lens. I used to find that shutter focusing would sometimes cause me to hand wobble. Since first switching to BBF the number of out of focus or bad/wonky shots I've taken have dramatically reduced.
Love BBF. I use it all the time for sports and wildlife photography and would never go back to focussing on the shutter button. I found that when I changed to BBF, I had a much higher hit rate of in focus shots. For stationary subjects I suppose there is little or no advantage!
I use it and a benefit I find after setting focus is you can now use the normal shutter button 1/2 press to lock exposure to how you like without having to use exposure compensation dial (using a Fuji mirrorless) Just point it around the scene until the exposure is how you want it, then lock it in with a 1/2 press
Is there a drawback for using back button focus? Right now my interest is mostly birds and have the AF-On button (Nikon D500) setup to use "Dynamic 25 AF" for birds in flight and the Pv button on the front to switch to Single point AF for perched birds or mid flight if I can track the subject well enough. Focus-and-recompose is also possible with AF-C mode.
In my opinion, I think back button focusing works best with spot metering. Lock on focus on subject but protecting the highlight in the scene by metering the brightest area. It gives a nice contrasting picture with subject in focus.
You didn't even mention the major advantage for back button focus, which is kinda imperative when you challenge its use: it decouples the focus lock and the exposure lock, saving you from having to refocus every time you take a shot. The fact that you can leave the camera in continuous focus is great too, though. I certainly won't have it any other way anymore, after missing a cool action shot, because I had to fiddle with the focus mode. Now I just tap the button for single focus, and hold it for continuous. No need to fiddle with the camera to cater for static or mobile subjects individually. Saves a lot of time and saves a lot of shots.
Hi Jigsaw407 I did say it decouples the focus lock and the exposure lock in a banner because I fogot to say it in words. BTW, I'm not challenging it, only suggeting we each of us need to discover if we like it or not. If you watched to the end you'll have heard what I suggested... MIKE :-)
On a Sony A6300 my thumb hits the back button perfect. For me it’s uncomfortable to have my finger up there all that time , then you have your camera crooked at times then you think. I believe you have firmer grip when using back button. Mike love you man keep them rolling in.
Absolutely @firemedic75 - we each have to find the path that works best for us as individuals. I think I a lot of folks thought I was saying don't use it... MIKE 🙂
Great video, as usual. I have been using back button focus for years now. It is not a perfect solution but is far less frustrating than shutter button focus.
What a nice motorbike! (I am Sportster-rider) :) Do you have any videos of using manual-focus lenses? I have a 15-45 AF kit lens and thinking of buying a lens with larger aperture for my ASP-C Canon (probably a 35mm). The affordable pieces are all manual and having no experience with prime lenses at all I am wondering if it is worth to try them.
Thanks Gabor. I had an FXRC Harly for several years. Wish I still had it... Manual lenses should be fine so long as they fit. Just look through the viewfinder and twist the focus ring till it's sharp... MIKE :-)
Very informative video. Please also explain under control settings there is 'a3 - focus tracking with lock-on' with five options from AF1 ( short) to AF5 (long). I did not understand it properly please explain what is the connection of this setting with Back Button Focus. Thanks again.
I use back-button focus because you can lock on a subject such as a subject having coffee at a table with people passing in the foreground in front of the table. I can take a few shots on the subject without worrying that the people passing in front of the table might inadvertently cause the camera to lose focus on the subject. This also works on capturing wildlife with heavy brush in the foreground.
I gave the BBF a shot, but found focusing was more efficient using my thumb to manipulate the focus point wheel, and the first finger to initiate the focus motor. With that written, I'll admit to using the shutter release for focus since the Nikon F4s days. Why fix what's not broken? But, in the greater scheme of things - which button one uses to operate focus is best left to those discussions over a pint or two...then forgotten :-)
Totally agree. I tried it out of curiosity and don't like it at all. Just seemed to slow me down and give me another thing to think about and fiddle with. Went straight back to the normal way of focusing. Much better.
Wow. Can't believe it. Few years ago and Mike showed me so much and I'll be forever grateful. But first difference of opinion. A little while ago I don't think I'd have had it in me to disagree with the "Master". But BBF works for me and can't imagine going back. But, right with you on hyperfocal distance calculations!!! You're the man!
Thanks paul. I didn't make the point of this vid clear enough. It's not saying BBF is bad or wrong, or that FBF is better. it's saying don't take anyone else's opinion either option is better. Try it and make your own opinion. My opinion is I don't like it - but that doesn't mean I'm right any more than someone else's opinion that BBF is great is right... MIKE
No - you did make the point very clearly - what works for me might not work for you and it's just an opinion. But usually, (I think you have me hypnotised) I listen to your opinions and up until now, haven't found any good reason to have a different one! I was just mentioning it because it was a first for me! All the best, Paul
With my mirrorless EOS M5 I really love the touch&drag focus on the Touchscreen. So back button focus would seem irrelevant in that scenario. I don't want to shift the focus point on the touchscreen, then move the thumb to a separate button and then finally hit the shutter.
When you do need this feature? -- You need it (or manual focusing +tethered or live view) is 1) when you shoot stationary subjects from a stationary tripod; when you shoot at high frame rates; when you shoot at night etc. -- that is when you don't want re-focusing with each press of the shutter release. *The secret is you do want refocusing with each shutter release mose of the time.* Back button focusing is a really nice feature. I just use it, like, once in a year something like that :) Crazy, yes :)))
Mike! Great haircut! I moved to back button and it’s good for me. I haven’t heard people say it’s the only way but I do like that it holds focus on what i want. I was losing it to often.
It's not just personal preference, it's the application. After understanding where BBF can be REALLY useful, you can go about it according to personal preference. Grab focus, then set to manual, plan the frame so you're not at risk of missing focus etc. There are ways and means, but understanding the best use of BBF is very useful and fun. A football game, shooting the goalie side on: Say you want the the goalie sharp, and the post of the goal out of focus as a framing element. Focus on the goalie with back button and when other subjects fall into frame, blast away without worrying that the shutter button snaps focus into the post. Same with wildlife. Photograph a feeding spot far away: Have outlining elements like shrubbery out of focus, and shoot the subject without focus shifting to the other elements. BBF allows that for you.
I recently started to learn the bb focus. The problem that it solves to me is seperation between focus and metering. When working with focus-recompose method, the metering is done for the frame before the recompose. Bb focus allows me to to have 3 stages. Focusing, metering, taking the shot. Btw, i dont know how it works for other manufacturers, but in fuji there is an option to keep the camera with shutter focusing, but when moving to manual focus, to use on of the back buttons for focusing. Some sort of half manual focus
Correct adcice, and knowing the camera is crucial and the extent it supports. I use it occasionally but i keep doing to gain experience as you have mentioned. Currently i am not having enough experience to give an idea.
I tried multiple times to use BBF and struggled, always switching back to shutter button focus. Now, I use BBF on my D500 and couldn't go back. I have it set, such that I have Single Point AF on the AF-ON button and 25 point Dynamic Area on the Sub Selector. Works very well for me. But like I said I did struggle a number of times before I finally switched.
Depends on the kind of photography. BBF works great in streetphotography where you can set the focuspoint at a particular distance and then start shooting without refocusing all the time.
Hi Andrew. That depends on how you have your camera's custom features set up. Personally i never use BB focus. Just not my preferred way of working... MIKE
@@MikeBrowne I have not tried back button focus yet. I am doubful of its advantages, unless you are on a tripod to do landscape or still life, because if you move your camera you'll want to re focus so why faff about with a separate button, and then you cant use that button for something else. You might as well focus manually if you are fixed. Thanks for you replies and advice.
Hello Mike nice video , I have used it in the past but went back to the finger , never saw any advantage in it really. As you said Mike what ever works for you. Thank you.
Mike, I stumbled on one of your videos concerning composition and have ended up searching your videos first whenever I want to research anything concerning photography. For the life of me, I can’t understand why you don’t have more than a million subscribers. You have found a way to make any subject fun, concise, and simple where possible. Thank you very much. Concerning the number of subscribers, maybe a Texas drawl would help. Thanks again. Mabe Hall, Austin, TX.
Back button focus works well for me as a wedding photographer especially for moving people. I put my camera in continuous focus most of the time when people ARE moving. The only thing, what you did not mention, is that you can tell your camera to shoot when it finds focus or always fire as soon as you press the shutter button without waiting for the camera to lock on focus. In continuous focus I set my camera to shoot as soon as I push the shutter, to speed up focussing but I set single shot focus to first lock on focus and only then shoot and this to be more accurate when people are less moving. I am using Nikon, so I don't know if this is something other people experience.Thank you Mike for the great videos! I like seeing that you enjoy life with a cup of coffee and what not, it only makes me gain weight, as I always get hungry watching your posts! So we can say you have a bad influence on me ;) .
Quite a lot of years shooting fast (wildlife, ...) my setup is using focus stop with the back button. The thumb is just needed when taking over in manual focus control while shooting continuous AF, the "free time" to be used i.e. to adjust focus points with the joystick. Exposure always aperture priority quite often with some +/- or in special cases full manual. Recent auto functions (focus, exposure) are great when fast response counts. Doing slow shooting (landscape, ...) my preference is BBF or full manual focus. Not like most proposals but this works for me.
The best example about back button focusing is this: say that you have a person getting ready to hit a ball with a bat. Now, when using front button focusing, every time you push the shutter button, the camera will focus before shooting. For many slow or non moving subjects, that is not a problem. And, you can keep the button held halfway down to lock the focus, but this is cumbersome while your waiting for the action to take place. In waiting for the batter to hit the ball, you can focus on them with the back button once, and the focus will be locked on that spot even after you let go of the button, and when you press the shutter button, the camera will immediately fire, not lose time trying to focus first. So when you see the pitcher wind up and throw, you can raise the camera quickly and fire at the batter, and if you have the camera on burst mode, will have an excellent chance of getting a series of in focus shots, because the camera was pre-focused on that very spot first. In front button focus you might luck out and get a shot if you time it right, but you will get many more if your camera will not need to try to focus first, and back button focus gives you a way to do that in those situations.
I hold my Canon DSLR with my right hand and focus by twisting the focusing ring on the lens with my left hand. I meter an Incident reading with a handheld meter, (I very, very occasionally use the in-camera Spotmetering; never the 'Matrix' metering). I only ever use Full Manual mode.
thanks for your videos. i have the new xt3 and went testing this issu and my opinion is: -YES to NO Back button focus. -Focus with your indicator is better to shoot the picture like you were firing a gun...squeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeze it slow... -and if it annoys me to "loose" the focus on the next picture i just lock the focus with the "back button" focus..oh..it has A NAME: AF-Lock eheheh
I was trying to photograph somebody with an 85mm lens because they had cool uniform reflective windows behind. I shot raw but their face was too dark. Do I need to go right up to them even though its below the minimum focus distance (2.63 feet) and do AEL, or do they have to be in focus to set AEL ? Or, should I have switched to JPEG and Auto HDR (Raw can't do auto HDR) Or to centre spot exposure ? [So confused.]
Hi Andrew. Sounds like the problem was the amount of light falling on their face. If so then your options would be to increase exposure with Exposure compensation if in a semi auto mode - or with shutter speed or aperture in manual mode. It could also be that there was bright areas behind the subject and that was fooling the light meter, in which case you just disregard it and again increase exposure until you get what you want. May I suggest that rather than struggle along on your own, you do my online Masterclass In Photography course which will clear all of your confusion up once and for all. It costs less than a used lens, has many 5* Trustpilot reviews and you can even try a free sample at the link below. Please come try it... MIKE www.photographycourses.biz/masterclass
BBF is to overcome inadequate AF (response to times, time to establish lock, ability to get a lock, insufficient focus point spread etc..) for moving subjects. If I don't have any of those issues for a situation, I don't need to separate AF action from triggering the shutter. So I am usually non BBF until I need that feature.
I use back button focus on my d700 because it has a dedicated button for it and got used to it enough to appreciate having it, but my DX body if I set it up for that I would have to use the AE-L AF-L button thus losing a control (for now it is set to focus ) so I can understand why a person may not want to use bbf other than the retraining of the control..it took me a bit to use the thumb instead. I agree though..more a personal preference but in my case, I am glad I switched
hi Mike im not a photographer how i can take a reasonable photo i use a cnon 1300d and a canon1200d camera i would love to master the bbf back button focus i just cant seem to get the hang of it have you any suggestions?please
Hi Hugh. It doesn't matter what camera you have or how many features are on it. Taking great photos depends on understanding the technical and creative relationships between shutter, aperture, ISO, focal length, light and composition. Back button focus is liked by some and hated by others. It won't make your photos any better, it's just one way of operating the focus on a camera. If you truly want to take better photos my Masterclass In PHotography 4 week online course has many 5 * reviews on Trustpilot and elsewhere. It's 100% guaranteed too so please take a look at the link below where you'll find out more and can even try a free sample. Hope this helps... ... MIKE 🙏😊 www.photographycourses.biz/masterclass
Hi Mike - My Nikon is set up for BBF and works very well, while my Sony is left on Shutter button AF. I like the way in AF-S the BBF locks focus and I don't have to worry about accidently rattling off an unfocussed shot which could often happen when the AF is linked to the Shutter button. I found it interesting how in AF-C the video changed focus as you panned the shot - I must experiment with that.
Just started using BB focus and so far find it better for what I like to do. Having the ability to focus lock easily then suddenly be able to capture something moving is what has swayed me. I just find it has allowed me to have the ability to capture what I like more easily.
Cool. I really made this vid as a response to the many others at that time saying BB was best. There are many ways to achieve the same thing and it's up to us as individuals to find the one that we like best.... MIKE
I use BBF on my Nikon, But using a new XT2 in London for the past week, It seems to be less obvious. Maybe it’s ergonomics and I feel it’s a bit inconvenient to use the AF-L/AE-L buttons on the XT versus the Nikon, or maybe it’s the fact that I went back to basics: Relaxation in shooting, going around in shooting, focusing and recomposing and nor going crazy shooting everything with continuous high speed and continuous focus and “burst! Burst!” Panic mode as you defined it once...
I've been using BBF for a few months. There have been a couple instances where it was handy. My problem is with the Canon SL2/200 the back buttons are tiny. All winter I usually had gloves on, which made it difficult. I'll probably go back to normal focus and see how I like it. I've only been in the hobby for about 7 months.
Hi @ rayh53 . I think that's the best way, try it and see if you like it rather than have someone else try to tell you which is best. We're all different... MIKE
I seem to have a bit of a twitchy trigger finger and found, when using shutter button focus, I often ended up taking the shot before I was ready. Learning about BBF made my life so much easier.
Thanks, Mike. You have been 'my tutor' ever since I got my first DSLR (Nikon D3100) way back in 2012. Wonderful tutor. However, on this occasion I can't help feeling a newbie would still be a little confused as to the merits/demerits of BBF after watching your video. Not long ago I treated myself to a second hand Nikon D300 (very old camera/technology) but to my delight, I found out that it has a menu option to quickly change from one set of pre-defined shooting presets to another. The first preset I configured it for BBF and called it 'Sport' (with continuous focus) - to be used with ‘burst mode (continuous shooting). The second preset I configured was without BBF and I called it 'Portrait' (single focus). Obviously I am not going to tell you the reasons why I configured my shooting options the way I did and the names I accordingly gave them - that would be like telling you how to suck eggs :-) But explaining it this way I think would help a newbie to understand what BBF can do to help them but only if they get to like it AND it fits in with their photographic genre which they like to capture. All the very best, Mike, and keep up the great content.
Thanks Darren. I'm confused as to the merits/demerits of BBF because to be it's all demerrit! I know a lot of people love it and that's perfect because it works for them and they get the results they want. There are many ways to reach Rome as they say. ... MIKE
I love using BBF, for continuous focus with birds in flight or any moving target like if that bike was actually moving :)) "it works well for me" but maybe not for everyone as you rightly say. One thing to mention is to make sure you disconnect focus from the shutter button if using back button focus, otherwise you will defeat the object and be focusing on the shutter anyway just before taking the photo. Single focus still works well for me using BBF pressing just once and even re-composing, far quicker (for me anyway) if the subject is also about to fly off. Not for everyone as you say, but I liked it when i tried and stuck with it for years now.
Thank you! I just have never seen a need to change. It’s a solution looking for a problem. Maybe people are so excited because it’s new. If cameras started out with BBF and only now started adding focusing to the shutter button, I think the TH-cam experts would be raving about how you “no longer have to use two fingers to focus and shoot! You can do it all with just the push of one button!”
Ha ha. I never thought of that oldschoolwarrior. I think you're absolutely bang on the money there. Seeing as this vid's proved so contentious, I'm thinking of making another on the subject with a coleague who's a comitted BB focuser. I'd love to quote you if I do... MIKE :-)
That would be fantastic. I've benefited so much from your videos (and I purchased your wedding photography ebook, too) that I'd be flattered if I was quoted.
The thing is BBF separate from she shutter button allows you taking few shots without refocusing ...just recompose so my thought it is additional feature. I tried and it and loved it ever since. Now cannot go back.
Having started photography with a rangefinder on top of the camera, take a reading and then transfer it to the lens, I have tried BB but prefer front button. That is in conjunction with, generally when using a tripod, using the touch screen facility on my camera to touch the screen where I want focus and taking the image at the same time, a great facility. When not using the touch screen, I often look at the image through the viewfinder and then shift the focus point to achieve what I want, generally prefer that to back button but each to their own. Use this method for wild life including birds in flight.
I have a button that toggles manual focus on my a6500. I can just press that one whenever i want to separate focus and shutter. In my opinion its better, because its a choice you can change on the fly
Mike you're looking good with your weight loss. Congratulations. I enjoyed your honesty with your video and also that you weren't overbearing with an opinion. I tried the BBF and I didn't like it. It didn't work with me but I'm sure it works well with someone else.
Thanks Indy. Only used a drone once and crashed it. There's a video link to it below... Love the shots you can get from a drone but I'm unlikely to get one TBH... MIKE www.photographycourses.biz/videos/tips-and-features/features/drone-photography
Mike, I keep seeing your videos for getting the right inputs. Being a weekend photographer….love your lessons. Today, watching this particular video for the nth time,…..felt that you pickup and flash your camera like you were Mr Bond! Hope all well at your end. Rgds.
I use and prefer BBF. Several novices in my camera club tend to mis-use shutter button focus when doing focus and recompose by not keeping shutter depressed halfway when recomposing . They release the shutter and then depress it again - causing refocus errors. A few cameras, however, don’t have a conveniently placed button that can serve this function. Was the coffee shop in the vid the same one you had as a backdrop when did the “sausage” photo lesson vid some time ago?
I use both at the same time on the d500. I do a lot of bird photography, so ,I use single, group and dynamic area focus points in continuous AF and just switch to single AF if shooting stationary subjects
You had me with the motorcycle in the thumbnail. LOL. I back button focus because it gives me some control over focusing. I have to think it might save a little battery if I take multiple shots at the same distance. I can also focus on something and then recompose without having to hold the shutter button. Minor thing but it's what I do. On the other hand, I've never had the focus on the shutter button and forgotten to focus. There's a serious convenience there. I think it's generally what works for you. After doing both, I'm not terms like better or worse apply beyond your own shooting preference.
A few year ago I would agree with you But tried it for month at first very frustrating .On landscapes no different But on wildlife and anything moving WOW love it so good ie for panning and flying birds . So in the end its not camera or way you use it but want you see through the lens and happy want you are getting and enjoy using it P.S. That's a nice bike !!!
Thanks dust1415. Yep I love these Triumph triples. I have another I bought new in '99. Done over 105,000 miles on it and it's still my favourite. .. MIKE :-)
"On landscapes no different But on wildlife and anything moving WOW love it so good ie for panning and flying birds ." Yes, wildlife and sports are areas where back-button focus is a real-world advantage. And that with continuous focus, I presume?
I prefer the shutter button for focus. My Canon M5 has a button, on the back, which will switch the camera to manual mode. I use this once I've found my optimum focus point and I can take more shots without re-focusing. Works great for me. Tried back button focus but changed back pretty quick. Love your videos.
It’s not a finger vs thumb thing. It’s about separating focus control away from the shutter button. Both on one button is simpler, separate gives more control for instances when you don’t want to refocus every time you take a shot.
but you prettty much want to refocus every time you press the shutter release. if you move a centimeter back or forth your plane of focus changes and ends up out of focus subject.
what I found quite useful for myself is to set ALE button to swish from single to continuous focus.. specially for me mostly shooting birds. once bird is siting I want to shoot as many as shots I can with lots of focus attempts so I have at least one tack sharp bird eye in focus. when the bird takes off, ill press and hold ALE to switch to contentious focus and track the bird. this works fine for me.
max factor That’s true in some circumstances but doesn’t apply in many shooting situations I am involved in. If refocusing every shot is important for how you shoot, by all means go with it. This video spent a lot of time talking about everything except why people actually use back button focusing, separation of control.
And I do love your videos Mike. You’ve taught me a lot about composition and I really like your teaching style.
Agreed Barry. If you have properly focused on your intended subject AND have chosen the correct aperture for your desired DOF, there is no reason to refocus every time you press the shutter. If you are working with a wide open lens and your DOF is only a few centimeters, I would think that a steady hand is far more important than the focus method you use. Shutter release or back button focus will not make any difference if you are not finding a way to keep the camera/lens steady. I am not arguing for, or against, any focusing method. Personally, I have been using back button focus for so long now that I have forgotten about the other method. To each his/her own...
Keeping your finger on the back button focus in continuous mode will allow refocus, take it off then you have single focus.
To each his own I suppose but I cannot imagine going back to shutter button focus. For me, BBF works a lot better. Better still is learning to focus manually. I shoot only landscapes and I rarely find autofocus gets the sharpness right where I want it. I may use AF to get close but I always zoom into 100% in live view and take control of the decision on where the true point of focus is. My opinion.
I'm quickly falling in love with manual focusing, too-after spending rather a bit of $ on AF lenses.... :|
My images improved dramatically when I started focusing manually on live view zoomed in. I saw a video by Dave Morrow that enticed me to try it. AF is great for moving subjects but for landscapes, I don't think you can beat manual focus.
It suited me right from the beginning to use the back button to focus.. I like to separate focus and exposure lock.. It made sense to me..
@@martinconrad9260 I prefer manual lenses to be honest.. My favourites are 24mm f/2.8 Ai, 35mm f/2 Ai, 50mm f/2 Ais, 35-70mm f/3.5 Ais, 105mm f/2.5 Ai, 70-200mm f/4 Ais.. Amazing lenses, I reckon, professional quality at the time and a fraction of the cost of AF-S glass..
When I was looking for my second lens in addition to the 18-55, I cheaped out and bought a Nikon 70-300 that is manual focus only on my camera...so...yeah! Manual focus is fun, especially when you are trying to shoot birds or helicopters and stuff like that! Granted, my sharp-to-completely-unusable ratio is abysmally low when shooting subjects like that, but it has surprisingly gotten better!
Once I learned about back-button focusing, I tried it and never switched back. I find it incredibly convenient. I don’t even think about locked or continuous focus; a press or release of my thumb does whatever I need intuitively without thought. And I personally like how I can concentrate on my exposure without refocusing; especially useful for focus/recompose technique.
Within a month of getting my first DSLR I set it up to back button focus and have been using it since on all my cameras, both video and stills. It works for ME. The real question here is, how many thousand times do you think people will have to be told that the only answer to questions like this is, what works for THEM? 🙂
Hi Mike, I have tried back button focus but never really got used to it, I found it a little more awkward but it may be that I am so accustomed to half pressing my shutter that this method has become automatic for me, glad to hear that you seem to feel the same way, cheers buddy Derek.
Ive been using back button for a few years now and it has become second nature. It works very well when composing a photo with the subject off centre, in other words, focusing on the subject then recomposing the shot. As a lot of you will know, not all cameras have focal points out to the edges.
I’ve been using back button focus for a number of years - I like keeping focus and exposure separate. I like it especially in the situation you were in where I’m isolating the subject from the background - lock the focus first, then I can recompose if necessary and not worry about accidentally refocusing on the background.
Back button for me and has been so for a long while now... Faster to focus on moving things, and also when you let go it stays locked on what it was last focused on forever, without tiring your fingers out holding the button half pressed... I won't change back that's for sure... Good Vid Mike, thanks...
I used this feature last night at a concert. The camera was focus hunting in the low light on subjects that didn’t move much out of the plane of focus.
My choices were either have the camera redundantly and slowly focus each time, killing any chance of getting what I wanted when I wanted, or fixing it with bbaf.
I can cite other useful scenarios, none of which resemble Mike’s tame example (I wouldn’t have used it there, either.)
Hi @The Next Hobby. We all have our preferred way of working. Not saying BBF doesn't work or you shouldn't use it, I'm saying everyone shoud see what works best for them and not just do it because someone else does. Personally I don't like it but that's just me. Have a question for you though. How would activating focus with back button overcome lack of contrast in the subject matter that made it hunt? ... MIKE
My apologies for the snark. And Sorry, I should have clarified that what It allowed me to do is pre-focus. The lack of contrast made it far slower, but it eventually did get there. I waited until the singer or guitarist moved back into the plane of focus.
Or at least I hope so. I was forced to shoot 4-5 stops underexposed to maintain a sane shutter speed while using ƒ1.8 on my 50mm, so there likely was zero effective depth of field for anything I pre-focused on. When I get that roll developed I'll find out! The Tri-X results may be so contrast-blocky that clear focus is the least of my worries.
But I learned that my next digital camera needs to see in the dark for both focusing and exposure without missing a beat (so to speak.) Until I can afford that, next time I'll backtrack to my AE-1 Program since that's easier to manual focus than my Elans are. (EOS 50 or 30 where you are) Starting with Tmax 3200 or Delta 3200 would have been a better idea, also.
Kudos for the ending, going against the grain. A true pro.
For my photography, mainly wildlife, I do use BBF and find it really works. However, when I'm shooting landscapes or something which is static and for which I use a remote cable release I don't use it. As you say, use what works for you. PS Love the way you told us your opinion about it at the end and that you still have the capacity to surprise me! Cracking video and you surely must be one of the best teachers around. Thank you.
Thanks Tom Glad tyou stayed to the end for the fun stuff... MIKE ;-)
I’ve been using back button focusing for years and I find it a lot easier than shutter focusing. Thank you for the video. Interesting as always.
Without BBF you have 3 features to control focusing (I'm a Canon user, so forgive me if the features are different in your non-Canon camera):
- AF/MF switch on your lens;
- AF mode setting im menu (One Shot / AI Focus / AI Servo)
- AF activation by half-press of the shutter button.
Sometimes you have no time to operate the 3 features. With BBF you have it all under your thumb. You can:
- Shoot with or without AF (no need to switch to MF - newer lenses even allow to turn the focus ring without switching to MF first);
- Focus and recompose the frame as in the One Shot mode or focus continuously as in the AI Servo mode;
- Focus anytime you want as with the shutter button half-press.
HI @eravpl - I want to make a follow up Back Button vs Front Button vid with a pro colleague and see if they can convince me. Problem is none of my pro buddies around here shoot back button! Got a couple who do, but they live a long way away sadly. Still going to do it when i finsd someone though. Think it'll be fun... MIKE :-)
@@MikeBrowne
I have started using BBF just a few months ago, after I have found some videos about it on TH-cam. They warned that it can be tricky to change your ways but it's worthy to try it yourself. So i did and a few times I was confused that my AF does not work as I half-press the shutter button as usual. But after that transition phase I don't need any pro buddies to convince me that I like it. Of course I still need them to learn more tricks.
BBF is the most useful when you have a fast moving object on far background, e.g. a bird or a plane flying. It happens to me to shoot them often. Before BBF my AF used to loose my object when I let it go off the focusing point. With BBF it's less frequent because I can stop focusing when the object is unstable in my viewfinder. However I still can shoot it keeping my previous focus distance.
In the static situation as in your film the BBF shows no advantages because you have as much time as you need to focus. You could even use manual focus or even a broken lens with fixed focus - you would have plenty of time to find the correct distance to your object. BBF is a trick for dynamic shooting where you have no time to switch Single/Continuous mode etc.
It took me a nearly a month or so to get used to it, but now I can't imagine ever going back to normal shutter operations. I like being able to separate focus and exposure. Plus if I am on a tripod, I only need to worry about the focus once, then the exposure will sort itself out with each press of the shutter button. It also provides hours of entertainment handing my camera to people and watching them trying to figure out why they can't focus it.
It suited me right from the start.. Setting up the camera, out of the box, it was logical to separate focus and exposure lock.. For the most past.. Sometimes, I don't need it and I'll just use the shutter button, I have a bank set for that too.. The luxury of digital 😀
You cruel, cruel person!! LOL
Al Reid Yup sure am. It's taken me over 40 years, but it's all my own work!!😂
😂
Mike, I have gone to back-button focusing to give the shutter one function only: control the shutter. For landscape photography I use the live-mode focusing almost exclusively.
For landscape photography, it's not an issue as I use manual focus and peaking to know exactly which parts of the image are sharpest. However, for everything else I certainly use the back button. The shutter release on my Fujifilm X-H1 is so touch-sensitive that if it weren't for BBF, I'd keep taking shots when I didn't intend to and would have to quickly reacquire focus. By keeping the functions separate, I don't have to worry about this and (when in continuous mode) enjoy a much higher hit rate.
Eyes will use back button focusing but what I've come across on the odd time is forgetting to back button focus when I'm trying to catch a quick shot so my point is if you do set up back button focusing you have to remember because it's not automatic so I switched around to whatever's comfortable and whatever the subject will be
I am glad you always say it is up to you and what you like. Everyone is different and we have different likes and dislikes, you make the decision the most honest thing anyone can say to you or me or anyone else Thanks Mike.
As I always say, it's apples and pears!
I'm in two minds myself but bbs works brilliantly for landscapes, because once the shot is set up, you don't have to go messing around with other settings on the lens/camera etc to retain the focus 👍
For landscape you just may as well use manual. The reason is that you can also get other aspects of photography focus that way, too.
I use a Panasonic G7. Set to Manual Focus, the Back Button is set to Auto Focus. A single press will set focus, which will then stay at that focus, even if the composition is altered. Thus - centre the main subject, press the AF Back Button, then compose and shoot. Seems to work (so far).
I switched to bbf a few months ago and once I had gotten used to using it, found it much better, but like you say it is a personal preference. Always enjoy your vlogs and find them very informative. Thanks
If anyone used cameras before the digital age you will remember we never used to focus and shoot from the one button anyhow. You rotated the focus ring til the prism (canon etc) lined up or became sharp and then pressed the shoot button. This is more in line with bbf shooting. It really comes into its own when recomposing a shot, If you only have the default all in one shooting then your metering and focus will be done at the same instant. BBF means you can focus, move the camera to the side AND get a new metering if you so wish without having it refocus. But each to their own of course, I recommend trying it.
When I first started using back button focusing I found it awkward and then as I got use to using it I found it very useful. It is great for locking focus, especially on someones eye and then recomposing the image and then when you push the shutter button to taking the picture the camera dosn't refocus. I will never go back to focusing with the shutter button, but that's just me, each to there own 📷 Oh, almost forgot to mention, nice bike Mike 🏍
phynx2006 if u focus on someone’s eye with shutter button and when recomposing keep holding the shutter button partial down until your done recomposing then press shutter button all way down to take photo, camera will not re-focus.
Started using back button focus a few months back and use it almost exclusively when not using manual focus.
Back button focus in continuous mode, reframe and press the normal top shutter button only (take your finger of the back button) and you will not have to refocus or lose focus. It's a fast way of reframing. ( You need to disable the top shutter button from focusing, it's just there to take the photograph. It's great. Also I can use one of my front buttons (front button focus) to have a different focus mode to the back, e.g group focus for the back and spot focus for the front. Again much faster way to change your focus mode. Love it. Love photography.
One of the things I love about my olympus OMD EM5 MII is that I have the hard back switch set to standard auto-focus in position 1, and back-button focus in position 2 (as well as focus peeking if I touch the manual focus dial). Best of both worlds and super easy to switch without digging through menus. I use them both depending on the shot, lens choice and available light. Really hard to auto focus in the dark for long exposures, so I use a led torch to light up my subject back-button focus then take the shot without the torch.
Steven Kamradt me too 😁
BB focus + continuous mode all the way after just a couple of weeks when I got into photography.
Very quickly I started seeing difficulties with focus changes due to position and having the shutter control + AE and AF on same button. When Id benefit from recomposing for instance. Sure there's the AE lock function, but never got on with it since you have to continuously depress the button for the duration. Even using it with a 2 stage press to switch on/off AE lock, sometimes I'd forget. So I didn't find it simple and immediate.
Very quickly I preferred using AF lock, or Back button focus, and adding continuous focus. Allows to set focus when I want which allows pre-setting focus, orfocus traps. And above all, its simple!
The downside, its when others use your camera and must remember telling them..
I've been shooting professionally for quite awhile. Yet still learn something new from your videos. Every single time! Your knowledge is brilliant!
Thank you MrCochise71.. MIKE
Thanks Mike, I have just started playing with back button focusing after being shown it. I can see that their is a benefit for Landscapes (esp using filters) as the focus is locked regardless of what you do with the shutter button (though manual focus controls would do the same). I am yet to be convinced for other shooting - tried tracking planes and birds flying over head or nearby and using a finger and thumb on different parts of the camera is not a comfortable thing.
One vital point missed when using it the shutter button then does metering so you have 2 separate functions which you dont normally have
Hi Jan. It depends how you have your camera set up. I have metering all the time so it doesn't lock from the shutter button. But I have the back button set as an exposure lock in case I want to lock and exposure... MIKE
Several years ago after learning about back button focusing, I tried it and stayed with it. I was using a camera with three focusing points, so it helped in locking focus and recomposing. Also when I was in the yard and focusing on a stationary subject and one of our cats or dogs came into view I did not need to go into the menu to witch to CAF. Just press and hold the AEL/AFL button and shoot.
Perfect. We all find our own way to reach the destination.
It’s the Marmite of topics - you either love it or hate it! As always Mike a great video and for me well timed as I have just this week set my camera up for bbf and so far so good for me!
Hi Scott. "Marmite of topics" - love that... MIKE :-)
I use it sometimes, mostly to separate focus from the shutter button. It seems to work best when I have enough depth of field for my subject such as a landscape. When focusing on someone’s eye for a portrait, I don’t use it.
You must be one of the minority that use autofocus for landscape.
Most of my photography has been learned through this channel and the 7 Building Blocks of Photography, which could be why I rarely use BBF. Never found it to be of much use to me
Thanks Graeme. Great to see a '7 Blocker' here... Stay well buddy... MIKE :-)
Hi Mike. Thanks for your videos. Am I missing something? I've watched a few videos on BB focusing and have seen no one mention the benefit of separating your focus and exposure buttons. I'll compose, lock my focus, expose on what I wish to in the frame, return to my composition and shoot. So what am I missing? Is there a way to do this without using BB focusing? This, to me is far more benefit than being able to switch quickly between focus lock and continuous.
bbf has been very helpful for years. it takes a little practice, but will give you more control in the end.
back in the days, i switched to bbf since i disliked the annoying automatic refocussing (AAR!) before each shot.
Mike I must say that you are so right on saying there's not one configuration for everybody we are all individuals everybody has their own unique Style and you learn as you go like you said to what's comfortable to you
thank you for the kind comments - Melissa pp Mike
As someone who mainly photographs wildlife I've found back button focusing so much easier. It's possible that the reason why you're not as bothered about it is because your shots are less time-sensitive than in wildlife photography where you do not have as much time to line up shots, get it focused in the right spot, and take the picture. The camera is also much easier to grip in this position if you are handholding a massive telephoto lens. I used to find that shutter focusing would sometimes cause me to hand wobble. Since first switching to BBF the number of out of focus or bad/wonky shots I've taken have dramatically reduced.
Love BBF. I use it all the time for sports and wildlife photography and would never go back to focussing on the shutter button. I found that when I changed to BBF, I had a much higher hit rate of in focus shots. For stationary subjects I suppose there is little or no advantage!
I use it and a benefit I find after setting focus is you can now use the normal shutter button 1/2 press to lock exposure to how you like without having to use exposure compensation dial (using a Fuji mirrorless) Just point it around the scene until the exposure is how you want it, then lock it in with a 1/2 press
Although if you’re taking photos of people they may wonder why you are pointing the camera here and there haha
Is there a drawback for using back button focus? Right now my interest is mostly birds and have the AF-On button (Nikon D500) setup to use "Dynamic 25 AF" for birds in flight and the Pv button on the front to switch to Single point AF for perched birds or mid flight if I can track the subject well enough. Focus-and-recompose is also possible with AF-C mode.
there's actually no draw back on using bbf, really depends on what makes your life easier :) - Melissa pp Mike
In my opinion, I think back button focusing works best with spot metering. Lock on focus on subject but protecting the highlight in the scene by metering the brightest area. It gives a nice contrasting picture with subject in focus.
You didn't even mention the major advantage for back button focus, which is kinda imperative when you challenge its use: it decouples the focus lock and the exposure lock, saving you from having to refocus every time you take a shot. The fact that you can leave the camera in continuous focus is great too, though. I certainly won't have it any other way anymore, after missing a cool action shot, because I had to fiddle with the focus mode. Now I just tap the button for single focus, and hold it for continuous. No need to fiddle with the camera to cater for static or mobile subjects individually. Saves a lot of time and saves a lot of shots.
Hi Jigsaw407 I did say it decouples the focus lock and the exposure lock in a banner because I fogot to say it in words. BTW, I'm not challenging it, only suggeting we each of us need to discover if we like it or not. If you watched to the end you'll have heard what I suggested... MIKE :-)
On a Sony A6300 my thumb hits the back button perfect. For me it’s uncomfortable to have my finger up there all that time , then you have your camera crooked at times then you think. I believe you have firmer grip when using back button.
Mike love you man keep them rolling in.
Thanks Kenny... MIKE
Your enthusiasm is contagious.
thank you! - Melissa pp Mike
I use BBF and i love it. It works for me and thats what matters. Another good video mike. 👍👍👍
Absolutely @firemedic75 - we each have to find the path that works best for us as individuals. I think I a lot of folks thought I was saying don't use it... MIKE 🙂
Great video, as usual. I have been using back button focus for years now. It is not a perfect solution but is far less frustrating than shutter button focus.
What a nice motorbike! (I am Sportster-rider) :)
Do you have any videos of using manual-focus lenses? I have a 15-45 AF kit lens and thinking of buying a lens with larger aperture for my ASP-C Canon (probably a 35mm). The affordable pieces are all manual and having no experience with prime lenses at all I am wondering if it is worth to try them.
Thanks Gabor. I had an FXRC Harly for several years. Wish I still had it... Manual lenses should be fine so long as they fit. Just look through the viewfinder and twist the focus ring till it's sharp... MIKE :-)
Very informative video. Please also explain under control settings there is 'a3 - focus tracking with lock-on' with five options from AF1 ( short) to AF5 (long). I did not understand it properly please explain what is the connection of this setting with Back Button Focus. Thanks again.
It's one of the many things on my camera that I have never used!.. but thanks for the advice on how to use it....
I use back-button focus because you can lock on a subject such as a subject having coffee at a table with people passing in the foreground in front of the table. I can take a few shots on the subject without worrying that the people passing in front of the table might inadvertently cause the camera to lose focus on the subject. This also works on capturing wildlife with heavy brush in the foreground.
I gave the BBF a shot, but found focusing was more efficient using my thumb to manipulate the focus point wheel, and the first finger to initiate the focus motor. With that written, I'll admit to using the shutter release for focus since the Nikon F4s days. Why fix what's not broken? But, in the greater scheme of things - which button one uses to operate focus is best left to those discussions over a pint or two...then forgotten :-)
Totally agree. I tried it out of curiosity and don't like it at all. Just seemed to slow me down and give me another thing to think about and fiddle with. Went straight back to the normal way of focusing. Much better.
Wow. Can't believe it. Few years ago and Mike showed me so much and I'll be forever grateful. But first difference of opinion. A little while ago I don't think I'd have had it in me to disagree with the "Master". But BBF works for me and can't imagine going back. But, right with you on hyperfocal distance calculations!!! You're the man!
Thanks paul. I didn't make the point of this vid clear enough. It's not saying BBF is bad or wrong, or that FBF is better. it's saying don't take anyone else's opinion either option is better. Try it and make your own opinion. My opinion is I don't like it - but that doesn't mean I'm right any more than someone else's opinion that BBF is great is right... MIKE
No - you did make the point very clearly - what works for me might not work for you and it's just an opinion. But usually, (I think you have me hypnotised) I listen to your opinions and up until now, haven't found any good reason to have a different one! I was just mentioning it because it was a first for me! All the best, Paul
With my mirrorless EOS M5 I really love the touch&drag focus on the Touchscreen. So back button focus would seem irrelevant in that scenario. I don't want to shift the focus point on the touchscreen, then move the thumb to a separate button and then finally hit the shutter.
When you do need this feature? -- You need it (or manual focusing +tethered or live view) is 1) when you shoot stationary subjects from a stationary tripod; when you shoot at high frame rates; when you shoot at night etc. -- that is when you don't want re-focusing with each press of the shutter release. *The secret is you do want refocusing with each shutter release mose of the time.* Back button focusing is a really nice feature. I just use it, like, once in a year something like that :) Crazy, yes :)))
Mike! Great haircut! I moved to back button and it’s good for me. I haven’t heard people say it’s the only way but I do like that it holds focus on what i want. I was losing it to often.
awww bless you, and thank for the kind comment - Melissa pp Mike
It's not just personal preference, it's the application. After understanding where BBF can be REALLY useful, you can go about it according to personal preference. Grab focus, then set to manual, plan the frame so you're not at risk of missing focus etc. There are ways and means, but understanding the best use of BBF is very useful and fun.
A football game, shooting the goalie side on: Say you want the the goalie sharp, and the post of the goal out of focus as a framing element. Focus on the goalie with back button and when other subjects fall into frame, blast away without worrying that the shutter button snaps focus into the post.
Same with wildlife. Photograph a feeding spot far away: Have outlining elements like shrubbery out of focus, and shoot the subject without focus shifting to the other elements. BBF allows that for you.
You are very honest about your opinons a reason why I respect them so much... Love your channel...
Thanks Ken... MIKE
I recently started to learn the bb focus. The problem that it solves to me is seperation between focus and metering.
When working with focus-recompose method, the metering is done for the frame before the recompose. Bb focus allows me to to have 3 stages. Focusing, metering, taking the shot.
Btw, i dont know how it works for other manufacturers, but in fuji there is an option to keep the camera with shutter focusing, but when moving to manual focus, to use on of the back buttons for focusing. Some sort of half manual focus
Correct adcice, and knowing the camera is crucial and the extent it supports.
I use it occasionally but i keep doing to gain experience as you have mentioned.
Currently i am not having enough experience to give an idea.
I tried multiple times to use BBF and struggled, always switching back to shutter button focus.
Now, I use BBF on my D500 and couldn't go back.
I have it set, such that I have Single Point AF on the AF-ON button and 25 point Dynamic Area on the Sub Selector.
Works very well for me. But like I said I did struggle a number of times before I finally switched.
I agree Dave. I do mostly wildlife photography, and use the BB for single point focus .. I know many do the same. I wouldn't be without it.
Depends on the kind of photography. BBF works great in streetphotography where you can set the focuspoint at a particular distance and then start shooting without refocusing all the time.
If you are using back button focus does that mean you are locking the exposure when you use the shutter button at the front ?
Hi Andrew. That depends on how you have your camera's custom features set up. Personally i never use BB focus. Just not my preferred way of working... MIKE
@@MikeBrowne I have not tried back button focus yet. I am doubful of its advantages, unless you are on a tripod to do landscape or still life, because if you move your camera you'll want to re focus so why faff about with a separate button, and then you cant use that button for something else. You might as well focus manually if you are fixed. Thanks for you replies and advice.
Hello Mike nice video , I have used it in the past but went back to the finger , never saw any advantage in it really. As you said Mike what ever works for you.
Thank you.
Mike, I stumbled on one of your videos concerning composition and have ended up searching your videos first whenever I want to research anything concerning photography. For the life of me, I can’t understand why you don’t have more than a million subscribers. You have found a way to make any subject fun, concise, and simple where possible. Thank you very much. Concerning the number of subscribers, maybe a Texas drawl would help. Thanks again. Mabe Hall, Austin, TX.
Ahh thanks Mabe. Please help me get more by sharing the vids around wherever appropriate. Best wishes... MIKE
Back button focus works well for me as a wedding photographer especially for moving people. I put my camera in continuous focus most of the time when people ARE moving. The only thing, what you did not mention, is that you can tell your camera to shoot when it finds focus or always fire as soon as you press the shutter button without waiting for the camera to lock on focus. In continuous focus I set my camera to shoot as soon as I push the shutter, to speed up focussing but I set single shot focus to first lock on focus and only then shoot and this to be more accurate when people are less moving. I am using Nikon, so I don't know if this is something other people experience.Thank you Mike for the great videos! I like seeing that you enjoy life with a cup of coffee and what not, it only makes me gain weight, as I always get hungry watching your posts! So we can say you have a bad influence on me ;) .
Quite a lot of years shooting fast (wildlife, ...) my setup is using focus stop with the back button. The thumb is just needed when taking over in manual focus control while shooting continuous AF, the "free time" to be used i.e. to adjust focus points with the joystick. Exposure always aperture priority quite often with some +/- or in special cases full manual. Recent auto functions (focus, exposure) are great when fast response counts. Doing slow shooting (landscape, ...) my preference is BBF or full manual focus. Not like most proposals but this works for me.
The best example about back button focusing is this: say that you have a person getting ready to hit a ball with a bat.
Now, when using front button focusing, every time you push the shutter button, the camera will focus before shooting. For many slow or non moving subjects, that is not a problem. And, you can keep the button held halfway down to lock the focus, but this is cumbersome while your waiting for the action to take place.
In waiting for the batter to hit the ball, you can focus on them with the back button once, and the focus will be locked on that spot even after you let go of the button, and when you press the shutter button, the camera will immediately fire, not lose time trying to focus first.
So when you see the pitcher wind up and throw, you can raise the camera quickly and fire at the batter, and if you have the camera on burst mode, will have an excellent chance of getting a series of in focus shots, because the camera was pre-focused on that very spot first.
In front button focus you might luck out and get a shot if you time it right, but you will get many more if your camera will not need to try to focus first, and back button focus gives you a way to do that in those situations.
We all have our own preference to working and BBF is indeed one way of doing it. ... MIKE🙏😊
I hold my Canon DSLR with my right hand and focus by twisting the focusing ring on the lens with my left hand.
I meter an Incident reading with a handheld meter, (I very, very occasionally use the in-camera Spotmetering; never the 'Matrix' metering).
I only ever use Full Manual mode.
Great stuff as always Mike! Please keep posting the great tips and discussions....
thank you Vince - Melissa pp Mike
thanks for your videos. i have the new xt3 and went testing this issu and my opinion is:
-YES to NO Back button focus.
-Focus with your indicator is better to shoot the picture like you were firing a gun...squeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeze it slow...
-and if it annoys me to "loose" the focus on the next picture i just lock the focus with the "back button" focus..oh..it has A NAME: AF-Lock eheheh
I was trying to photograph somebody with an 85mm lens because they had cool uniform reflective windows behind. I shot raw but their face was too dark. Do I need to go right up to them even though its below the minimum focus distance (2.63 feet) and do AEL, or do they have to be in focus to set AEL ? Or, should I have switched to JPEG and Auto HDR (Raw can't do auto HDR) Or to centre spot exposure ? [So confused.]
Hi Andrew. Sounds like the problem was the amount of light falling on their face. If so then your options would be to increase exposure with Exposure compensation if in a semi auto mode - or with shutter speed or aperture in manual mode. It could also be that there was bright areas behind the subject and that was fooling the light meter, in which case you just disregard it and again increase exposure until you get what you want.
May I suggest that rather than struggle along on your own, you do my online Masterclass In Photography course which will clear all of your confusion up once and for all. It costs less than a used lens, has many 5* Trustpilot reviews and you can even try a free sample at the link below. Please come try it... MIKE
www.photographycourses.biz/masterclass
BBF is to overcome inadequate AF (response to times, time to establish lock, ability to get a lock, insufficient focus point spread etc..) for moving subjects. If I don't have any of those issues for a situation, I don't need to separate AF action from triggering the shutter. So I am usually non BBF until I need that feature.
I use back button focus on my d700 because it has a dedicated button for it and got used to it enough to appreciate having it, but my DX body if I set it up for that I would have to use the AE-L AF-L button thus losing a control (for now it is set to focus ) so I can understand why a person may not want to use bbf other than the retraining of the control..it took me a bit to use the thumb instead. I agree though..more a personal preference but in my case, I am glad I switched
It's a must for me, it gives me the best way to select between locked or continuous focus. I don't think I could ever go back to shutter button focus.
hi Mike im not a photographer how i can take a reasonable photo i use a cnon 1300d and a canon1200d camera i would love to master the bbf back button focus i just cant seem to get the hang of it have you any suggestions?please
Hi Hugh. It doesn't matter what camera you have or how many features are on it. Taking great photos depends on understanding the technical and creative relationships between shutter, aperture, ISO, focal length, light and composition. Back button focus is liked by some and hated by others. It won't make your photos any better, it's just one way of operating the focus on a camera. If you truly want to take better photos my Masterclass In PHotography 4 week online course has many 5 * reviews on Trustpilot and elsewhere. It's 100% guaranteed too so please take a look at the link below where you'll find out more and can even try a free sample. Hope this helps... ... MIKE 🙏😊
www.photographycourses.biz/masterclass
I use back button focusing as it lock the focus and I can recompose without a fuss
Hi Mike - My Nikon is set up for BBF and works very well, while my Sony is left on Shutter button AF. I like the way in AF-S the BBF locks focus and I don't have to worry about accidently rattling off an unfocussed shot which could often happen when the AF is linked to the Shutter button. I found it interesting how in AF-C the video changed focus as you panned the shot - I must experiment with that.
Just started using BB focus and so far find it better for what I like to do. Having the ability to focus lock easily then suddenly be able to capture something moving is what has swayed me. I just find it has allowed me to have the ability to capture what I like more easily.
Cool. I really made this vid as a response to the many others at that time saying BB was best. There are many ways to achieve the same thing and it's up to us as individuals to find the one that we like best.... MIKE
I use BBF on my Nikon, But using a new XT2 in London for the past week, It seems to be less obvious. Maybe it’s ergonomics and I feel it’s a bit inconvenient to use the AF-L/AE-L buttons on the XT versus the Nikon, or maybe it’s the fact that I went back to basics: Relaxation in shooting, going around in shooting, focusing and recomposing and nor going crazy shooting everything with continuous high speed and continuous focus and “burst! Burst!” Panic mode as you defined it once...
What Fuji you using now is it the xt3
hi darren, Mike now uses xt2, - Melissa pp Mike
I've been using BBF for a few months. There have been a couple instances where it was handy. My problem is with the Canon SL2/200 the back buttons are tiny. All winter I usually had gloves on, which made it difficult. I'll probably go back to normal focus and see how I like it. I've only been in the hobby for about 7 months.
Hi @ rayh53 . I think that's the best way, try it and see if you like it rather than have someone else try to tell you which is best. We're all different... MIKE
I seem to have a bit of a twitchy trigger finger and found, when using shutter button focus, I often ended up taking the shot before I was ready. Learning about BBF made my life so much easier.
Thanks, Mike. You have been 'my tutor' ever since I got my first DSLR (Nikon D3100) way back in 2012. Wonderful tutor. However, on this occasion I can't help feeling a newbie would still be a little confused as to the merits/demerits of BBF after watching your video.
Not long ago I treated myself to a second hand Nikon D300 (very old camera/technology) but to my delight, I found out that it has a menu option to quickly change from one set of pre-defined shooting presets to another. The first preset I configured it for BBF and called it 'Sport' (with continuous focus) - to be used with ‘burst mode (continuous shooting). The second preset I configured was without BBF and I called it 'Portrait' (single focus). Obviously I am not going to tell you the reasons why I configured my shooting options the way I did and the names I accordingly gave them - that would be like telling you how to suck eggs :-) But explaining it this way I think would help a newbie to understand what BBF can do to help them but only if they get to like it AND it fits in with their photographic genre which they like to capture.
All the very best, Mike, and keep up the great content.
Thanks Darren. I'm confused as to the merits/demerits of BBF because to be it's all demerrit! I know a lot of people love it and that's perfect because it works for them and they get the results they want. There are many ways to reach Rome as they say. ... MIKE
I love using BBF, for continuous focus with birds in flight or any moving target like if that bike was actually moving :)) "it works well for me" but maybe not for everyone as you rightly say. One thing to mention is to make sure you disconnect focus from the shutter button if using back button focus, otherwise you will defeat the object and be focusing on the shutter anyway just before taking the photo. Single focus still works well for me using BBF pressing just once and even re-composing, far quicker (for me anyway) if the subject is also about to fly off. Not for everyone as you say, but I liked it when i tried and stuck with it for years now.
Thank you! I just have never seen a need to change. It’s a solution looking for a problem. Maybe people are so excited because it’s new. If cameras started out with BBF and only now started adding focusing to the shutter button, I think the TH-cam experts would be raving about how you “no longer have to use two fingers to focus and shoot! You can do it all with just the push of one button!”
Ha ha. I never thought of that oldschoolwarrior. I think you're absolutely bang on the money there. Seeing as this vid's proved so contentious, I'm thinking of making another on the subject with a coleague who's a comitted BB focuser. I'd love to quote you if I do... MIKE :-)
That would be fantastic. I've benefited so much from your videos (and I purchased your wedding photography ebook, too) that I'd be flattered if I was quoted.
The thing is BBF separate from she shutter button allows you taking few shots without refocusing ...just recompose so my thought it is additional feature. I tried and it and loved it ever since. Now cannot go back.
Recently I found this fiture in my camera and don't turning back again, thanks Mike.
Having started photography with a rangefinder on top of the camera, take a reading and then transfer it to the lens, I have tried BB but prefer front button. That is in conjunction with, generally when using a tripod, using the touch screen facility on my camera to touch the screen where I want focus and taking the image at the same time, a great facility. When not using the touch screen, I often look at the image through the viewfinder and then shift the focus point to achieve what I want, generally prefer that to back button but each to their own. Use this method for wild life including birds in flight.
I have a button that toggles manual focus on my a6500. I can just press that one whenever i want to separate focus and shutter. In my opinion its better, because its a choice you can change on the fly
Mike you're looking good with your weight loss. Congratulations. I enjoyed your honesty with your video and also that you weren't overbearing with an opinion. I tried the BBF and I didn't like it. It didn't work with me but I'm sure it works well with someone else.
Thanks cii1072... MIKE
Yes I use back button focus and just love it. thanks
Very interesting! Thanks for all the great content.
Would you consider using drones for filming and taking pictures for your work/TH-cam channel?
Thanks Indy. Only used a drone once and crashed it. There's a video link to it below... Love the shots you can get from a drone but I'm unlikely to get one TBH... MIKE
www.photographycourses.biz/videos/tips-and-features/features/drone-photography
Mike, I keep seeing your videos for getting the right inputs. Being a weekend photographer….love your lessons. Today, watching this particular video for the nth time,…..felt that you pickup and flash your camera like you were Mr Bond! Hope all well at your end. Rgds.
Glad to be of service, even if it's just at the weekends 😎
I use and prefer BBF. Several novices in my camera club tend to mis-use shutter button focus when doing focus and recompose by not keeping shutter depressed halfway when recomposing . They release the shutter and then depress it again - causing refocus errors. A few cameras, however, don’t have a conveniently placed button that can serve this function. Was the coffee shop in the vid the same one you had as a backdrop when did the “sausage” photo lesson vid some time ago?
Ha ha - it is indeed the 'Sausage' location Paul. ... MIKE
I use both at the same time on the d500. I do a lot of bird photography, so ,I use single, group and dynamic area focus points in continuous AF and just switch to single AF if shooting stationary subjects
You had me with the motorcycle in the thumbnail. LOL. I back button focus because it gives me some control over focusing. I have to think it might save a little battery if I take multiple shots at the same distance. I can also focus on something and then recompose without having to hold the shutter button. Minor thing but it's what I do. On the other hand, I've never had the focus on the shutter button and forgotten to focus. There's a serious convenience there. I think it's generally what works for you. After doing both, I'm not terms like better or worse apply beyond your own shooting preference.
A few year ago I would agree with you But tried it for month at first very frustrating .On landscapes no different But on wildlife and anything moving WOW love it so good ie for panning and flying birds . So in the end its not camera or way you use it but want you see through the lens and happy want you are getting and enjoy using it
P.S. That's a nice bike !!!
Thanks dust1415. Yep I love these Triumph triples. I have another I bought new in '99. Done over 105,000 miles on it and it's still my favourite. .. MIKE :-)
"On landscapes no different But on wildlife and anything moving WOW love it so good ie for panning and flying birds ."
Yes, wildlife and sports are areas where back-button focus is a real-world advantage. And that with continuous focus, I presume?
I prefer the shutter button for focus. My Canon M5 has a button, on the back, which will switch the camera to manual mode. I use this once I've found my optimum focus point and I can take more shots without re-focusing. Works great for me. Tried back button focus but changed back pretty quick. Love your videos.